Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in December 2016
Clos de Mez
Beaujolais, France
Fleurie
La Dot
Gamay Noir
2012
$22.99
13.0%
Some purple in the core but it’s mainly a dusky scarlet to brick red hue, somewhat dull and looks a bit older than it is. The nose has a forest floor component yet it’s more inert than funky, not much movement nor lift, slight cleansing medicinal like component, the cherry, dark berry fruit scents terse. Full-bodied, has a big tannic skeleton which just adds to the general sense of heaviness. More spicy than floral, thick orange citrus wedges. Seems to evoke more earth and clay than minerality, contributing to the dry heaviness. Decent level of cherry, blackberry to plum fruit yet the way things clamp down by the finish it’s hard to enjoy the fruit. Either it’s way young or even shut down but at this moment not providing much enjoyment. (Composite Cork: Diam5) 87 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Monte Bello
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$120.99
13.4%
The core is as much blackish red as purple, definitely shows some age, strong crimson to brick red rims. Quite smoky nose, borderline burnt, lots of charred wood, gamey, the vanillin oak has mostly knit in and does not soften the experience much, after some time it opens into a pleasing florality with licorice accents, the cherry, currant fruit on the whole subdued but not faded. Medium-bodied, tangy with strong pucker even if the tannin is still drying it out. Chocolate and vanilla are more present here, does not quite reach butterscotch. Retains that smokiness, stony too. Maraschino cherry, plum to cassis fruit give it a sweet core. Mint, minor eucalyptus as well as licorice help imbue an inner mouth perfume. No powerhouse but has some follow-through in addition to integrated balance. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in October 2016
Prum, Weingut Joh. Jos.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Wehlener
Sonnenuhr
Spätlese AP #25
Riesling
2004
$38.99
8.0%
Pale yellow straw color, soft green glint, some spritz sticks to the glass sides, still youthful looking with good shine. Lots of rubber and vanilla in the nose, whipped cream, offers pineapple, nectarine, green apple fruit scents before ending with a floral flourish, fairly open but seems capable of development yet. Medium-bodied, has soft acidity yet it’s super tangy with tropical guava, papaya, pineapple to green apple fruit. Loaded with lime, pink grapefruit citrus as well. Takes awhile to get to the wet stone, slate aspects. Fleshy, soft landing at the end. Most of the rubber notes appear retronasally. 88 points
Lusseau, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
2000
$40.99
13.0%
The purple at the core has started to blacken and the rims are wide brick red, good brightness and clarity though. There’s a fair amount of funkiness when just opened, wet matted hay and damp mud and metal, leather too, minimal sign of oak treatment and the cherry to red currant fruit takes some time to unwind. In the mouth it is full-bodied and opens up more quickly, here the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit richer, if with a sourness at the end. Traces of caramel and burnt cocoa weave in and out. Almost minty or floral at times. No sign of greenness. More smoky or minerally than leathery. Creates good inner mouth pungency. Not overly complex but the fruit has not faded appreciably, time to drink up. 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Alkoomi
Western Australia, Australia
Frankland River
Riesling
2002
$15.99
12.0%
Matured, deep yellow with a borderline luminescent glow, solid without much surface luster. The nose is full of burning rubber, coconut custard and dense apple, pear fruit scents, lemon peel, the rubber dominates most else but as it warms it at least loses most of its inert character. Full-bodied, quite dry and the acidity seems strong in a “cloaking” manner rather than lending bite. Smoky and minerally with an odd toastiness that is all burnt buttered toast and butterscotch. Here the rubber softer and more knit into the whole. Lightly floral, helps develop breadth in the peach, pear, apple, persimmon fruit, no tropical zing. The citrus more white grapefruit, brings a bitterness to the finish. It has developed over time but leaves you wondering how to put it into words. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in September 2016
Keating Wines
Dry Creek Valley, California
Buchignani Vineyard
Zinfandel
2012
$35.00
14.6%
There’s a mix of black, black and orange inside the purple core, wide dried blood red rims, the color looks aged but there’s plenty of shine and basically that’s the way it looked right out of the crib. There’s uncommon density to the nose, borderline inert, strawberry, green apple, raspberry to blueberry fruit scents, smoky and close to scorched, kindling wood, leather, vaguely mentholated dissolve, roughhewn overall. In the mouth it’s full-bodied with a velvety smoothness if not a lot of forward progression. Here its weight is a positive attribute as it allows the ripe cherry, blackberry, blueberry flavors to sink in fully. Caramel, butterscotch and mint lend added sweetness. The smokiness more grill like than forest fire. Does finish a touch too dry. Admirably large in scale, any flaws should be masked easily by stuff like BBQ or steak. 88 points
Langoa-Barton, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1967
12.0%
Crystal clear brick red, strong orange rust influence, almost yellowing at the outer edges. There’s a noticeable mustiness to the nose, wet earth and straw, sandalwood, minor menthol, close to zero fruit presence, smells like your grandparents’ bedroom closet. Light-bodied, thin with a metallic, leathery edge. Within 30 minutes of opening it shows adequate cherry, currant fruit but with air time it fades, green apple too. No tannin nor structure. Can’t even say there’s cedar there to flesh it out. While it’s drinkable, and that’s saying something, it is pretty much shot. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 375 ml bottle. 84 points
Garaudet, Florent
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Chardonnay
2013
$24.99
13.0%
Clear and mostly hueless with a glint of green, close to flat and not much shininess to the surface. Sparkly nose of mint, anise, orange blossom, stone dust, has pretty apricot, apple, pear fruit scents, nice lift and perfume without turning musky. Medium-bodied, acidic yet smooth with pliancy, has more flesh than linear progression. Lilacs, lemon, orange citrus, mineral water, good traction and staying power. Gets even more citrusy as it warms. Some vanilla, whipped cream but not oaky at all, more neutral. Strong anise to licorice through the finish. The apple, peach, pear, cherry fruit low but steady where it’s at. Can’t call it voluptuous but it has pleasing weight, finishes square shouldered. 89 points
Seghesio, Aldo and Riccardo
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Vigneto La Villa
Nebbiolo
1995
$48.99
13.9%
As much black as purple in the core, dully opaque, full segue to red to orange and then to yellow, rusty appearance. Menthol, licorice, orange peel give the nose appeal, blends in hay and leather, decent amount of cherry and dark berry scents left, curiously not presenting many matured, tertiary aromas. Medium-bodied, dried herbs, leather, orange peel, rose petals and stone most obvious. Basic cherry to berry fruit here too. The tannin has power yet, only partially resolved even today. Takes a substantial amount of air time to show but certainly adequate once it does. The acidity brings things to a somewhat premature ending but all things considered not quite over the hill. 87 points
Eddy, Tom
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1995
$36.99
13.9%
The purple core is slightly browning but just as much black, the rims a brighter sunset red with a touch of orange, throwing a little sediment but mostly clear. The nose still features large scaled vanilla, buttered toast and potpourri, cedar notes keep it fresher, the cherry, plum scents round and fleshy while also somewhat reduced, fills in with wet saddle leather, menthol and balsam wood, thickly perfumed yet if inactive. Full-bodied with many layers of plum to prune, cassis and black cherry fruit, sweet attack. The tannin is fully resolved yet not soft, this partially due to its strong savory side with dried garden herbs, leather and grill smoke and fat leading the way. Butterscotch, buttered popcorn notes get it going back in the other direction. Polished finish, has a satiny glide. Has just passed its prime but well stored bottles should still rock it. Grapes sourced 42% Vyborny Vineyard, 26% Bella Vista Vineyard, 26% Pedregal Vineyard, 6% Phoenix Vineyard. 91 points
Scarpantoni
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$7.99
13.5%
Matured brick to cough syrup red color, clear with a fade to a rust orange at the rims. The nose is minty and there’s a credible amount of cherry to red currant fruit left but it’s mostly bales of hay, dirt and witch hazel, by no stretch unpleasant yet it enough primary material has faded that it’s more boozy than it should be. Medium-bodied, here it sets itself with more power and youth. The fruit has some sap left in the cherry, blackberry flavors and any astringency or bitterness mostly holds off to the end. Lemon, menthol, camphor and bark/twigs fill in some blanks. The tannin seems resolved more so that’s it drying out per se now. Any oak accents seem to have blended in fully. Again, not flawed nor totally shot but without the fluidity and polish it likely had out of the gate. 86 points
Sent to Their Grave in August 2016
Antinori, Marchese
Tuscany, Italy
Solaia
Blend
1998
$129.99
13.5%
More black than purple to the core, fiery sunset reds and oranges around the rims, matured visually. Semi-sour nose of cedar, wet driftwood, leather and tar, needs air to lose initial volatility, the fruit now as much prune and raisin as cherry, plum, dark berry, ends with a salt, beef jerky note. Medium-bodied, feels like it has lost weight, particularly at the end where it falls off the proverbial table. Metallic tang to it, while you are puckering you may miss a lot of the plum, black cherry to prune fruit. Earthier here, stone and minerals seem equal in proportion to the cedar, incense, pressed flowers. Does benefit from as much air time as you can give it, still leaves you with the impression that it is on the downward slide. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Syrah
1999
$59.99
13.0%
Filmy reddish purple in hue, fully opaque. Plum, prune, raisin and mixed black fruits filled nose, alcoholic, earthy and stony, mildly mentholated, at times cheesy, overripe and lacks flow and harmony. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, squat and sluggish, vanilla, wood smoke, leather, saddle soap. Weird, kind of soupy and lacks direction. Good amount of black currant, plum fruit but shows minimal meaningful tertiary development and few hints that it might be coming soon. Leaves you hoping this is not the best specific bottle of this wine. 88 points
Clape, Auguste
Rhône, France
Cornas
Syrah
1999
$59.99
13.0%
Cloudy reddish purple with brick red rims, does not appear that aged. High-toned nose of grass, earth, lemon peel, has a pleasingly mentholated lift, red plum, cherry, currant fruit, gently cleansing feel. Medium-bodied, plush and giving, the tannin seems resolved while the acidity going strong. Burnt cocoa, iodine, olive pit, leather, orange peel, leather, lavender all swirl together in one big soup. Stays bright and lively, crackles well. The fruit is mainly cranberry, blackberry, raspberry with some rhubarb. Relaxes into itself through the finish while staying in control of your experience. What tannin there is dries out the finish some. 91 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
2000
$74.99
14.5%
Mostly brick red core with a little purple, the rims are orange with a touch of yellow, light filminess. You get coriander, orange pekoe tea, anise in the nose, cocoa and then snap via the red cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, has lost weight and flattened out yet on the whole displays only moderate development and does not seem to have fully bloomed yet. Caramel, chocolate, ginger and flowers give it youthful appeal. The fruit is riper and heavier, plum, cherry, blackberry. Not that sweet and curiously lacks intensity and spring to its step. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah. 88 points
Guigal, E.
Rhône, France
Condrieu
La Doriane
Viognier
2011
$119.99
14.0%
Slightly worn gold color, strong rims. Lime and lemon drive the nose, crisp and sour toastiness, fried butter, ripe peach, apricot, persimmon to quince fruit, mint and floral paste, piles on the layers. In the mouth it’s on the fat side, young and full-bodied with licorice, mint, orange blossom, butterscotch and caramel. Poached character to the peach, apricot, pear fruit. No acidity to speak of. On the hot and alcoholic side. Really glues itself to the mouth pores. 87 points
Jamet, Corinne & Jean-Paul
Rhône, France
Côtes-du-Rhône
Blend
2013
$29.99
13.0%
Pale green to gold color, not much loss around the rims. Crisp toast to the nose, the oak comes to the fore, orange marmalade, ginger, pineapple, guava and nectarines fruit, minty, good lift given its generally larger heft. Medium-bodied, even more oak present here, caramel, vanilla in addition to buttered toast, mint, chamomile tea. Takes awhile to let the peach, apricot, pear, yellow apple out from under that element. The orange sherbet to lemon custard brightens the finish which is helpful given its average acidity. Colorful and playful wine. 55% Marsanne, 30% Viognier, 10% Roussanne, 5% Grenache Blanc. 89 points
Eddy, Tom
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1993
$36.99
13.6%
The core more black than purple, a dusky sort of opacity to it, brick red to rust orange rims, visibly matured wine. Savory nose of cedar, pine needles, saddle leather, tobacco, wildflowers, not overdone, the fruit has a tang to it now, cranberry, red cherry to red currant, not gone but certainly lean. Medium-bodied, smooth in spite of a somewhat dusty texture, acidic still with the tannin about halfway relaxed, no lack of structure. Which makes one immediately consider the fruit and here too it has a steady pulse, sweeter with raspberry, blackberry mixed into the cherry, cranberry base. Soy, black tea leaf, tobacco and gunflint, the cedar seems drier. At times feels simmered down to a reduction. Sour finish. Not a wine for everyone but does have appeal for those who have a liking for well aged Cabernet. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2016
Moulin de la Bridane, Château du
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1982
$39.99
12.0%
Matured visually, not much purple in the core, most reddish black with a fade to vivid sunset red and orange to yellow hues, fairly clear, given its age it’s vibrant. The nose offers cedar, bell pepper, even caramel at this juncture of its evolution, there is a damp earth and leaves element which saps some freshness from the still kicking cherry, red currant scents, not a lot of length though. Medium-bodied, soft and feels like it has shed weight, a little bit of tannin yet kicks around. Predominantly leather, beef jerky, salt and iron flecks as well as the earthiness, maybe orange peel to incense ash notes. But as in the nose the fruit has not fully dried out and there’s sufficient cherry, dark berry to carry the day. And it does take on weight with air time. For a second wine of a Saint-Julien producer of no real repute, doing alright and testament to the vintage. Approximately 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Issan, Château d’
Bordeaux, France
Margaux
Blend
1986
$69.99
13.0%
Bare vestige of purple left in the core, not even brick red anymore, mostly a mix of orange and yellow, the first pour is clear and the surface retains a high degree of shine. There is a cheesy, musty quality to the nose at first but surprising strength too in the cherry, mixed berry fruit scents, sandalwood, leather and dried beef blood, understated in a way which suggests it was that way in its youth as well. Medium-bodied, tannin fully resolved to the point it can be sluggish at times. Leads with tar, asphalt, sinew and gristle and a semi-metallic earthiness. With air finds itself and can segue into candied cherry, blackberry to cassis fruit with supporting cedar and spiced orange notes. Its lack of length does betray its age. But otherwise shows many characteristics of a basic fine claret. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot. 88 points
Calot, Domaine François et Jean
Beaujolais, France
Morgon
Cuvée Spéciale
Gamay Noir
2002
$14.99
13.0%
Cloudy to the point of murkiness, faded reddish black core, watery orange to yellow rims, showing its age for sure. There’s a matted straw and earth character to the nose, wet leather, kind of hothouse funk, crushed cloves and ham, pulped oranges, the fruit has reduced to plum/prune and raisin, maybe an echo of cherry, sluggish like it does not want to be woken from a nap. Full-bodied, retains some of the tannic punch of its youth, shoulders itself into the mouth with graceless haste. Which is sort of its charm. Twigs, cedar, leather, fennel and wet grill smoke show once more its age. The fruit has no sugariness yet glues the parts together, plum, cherry to raisin. Past its prime but not unpleasant to drink. 86 points
Habermann’s Höhe
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Cabernet Shiraz
Blend
2002
$10.99
14.5%
What might have been a purple core is now black, burnt rims, all sunset red and fiery yellow, definitely shows age but not quite washed out. The nose features menthol, eucalyptus, witch hazel, vanilla powder and mesquite grill smoke as well as iron shavings, asphalt and dried sinewy gristle and fat, the plum to black cherry fruit has trailed off and yields to the more unstable tertiary scents. Full-bodied, the fruit is much stronger here with prune and raisin amplifying the cherry, blueberry, plum base. Can’t shake the damp earth, leather to barnyard floor element, it’s not “unclean” per se but the funk is ever present. Mint, orange blossom and butterscotch go a long ways towards prettying it up. Tannin long gone, its weight does the structuring. Not over the hill, however, the tertiary aspects are not exactly enticing. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2016
Lafite Rothschild, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Blend
1998
$159.99
13.0%
Close to blackish purple core, thin but dense crimson rims with a healthy glow. Heavily set nose of currant, plum, cherry, succinct earthiness and stone, fresh cedar accents, not especially complex but everything is measured and well thought out. Medium-bodied, impresses with tannic grip that does not disturb how well it flows through the palate. Possesses notes of soy, cedar, sandalwood, orange peel and leather, all at a certain regal remove. At times the oak sweetens into vanillin accents. Straightforward blackberry, black currant, cherry fruit with a very slight touch of green apple, not overly extracted. Has weight and leverages it deftly in the face of less than superior material. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot. 89 points
Magdelaine, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1982
$139.99
12.0%
Touch of purple left in the core, lightly burnt rims, runs the gamut from red through orange onto yellow. Merde, damp earth smoke then butterscotch in the nose, somewhat scorched feel, band-aid, dried cedar, enervated cherry, dark berry fruit scents, overall it kind of careens all over the map. Medium-bodied, dry and tannic and starting to unravel, the metallic, smoky touches cloak the blackberry, black currant fruit. Light mentholated lift helps open it up. Decent amount of tea leaf, bitters, more cedar, stony earth. Basically it is what you’d expect from a good producer in this vintage and its age but nothing more than that. Good wine approaching the old age home. Approximately 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Montelena, Château
Napa Valley, California
Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon
1991
$120.00
14.0%
Natural, easy opacity to the purple core, thin ruby rims, well-saturated and youthfully vivid. Opulently rich nose of plum, cherry, darker berry fruit, wet cedar and tobacco, leather, stunningly youthful, cocoa powder, some dill to maybe bell pepper notes. Full-bodied, savory and biting cherry, blackberry fruit with a softening florality and orange zest. Cocoa to coffee accents, cedar, hint of caramel, overall the oak comes off as more high-toned than sweet. Menthol and sweet tea leaf lift the finish. Curiously, something about it still seems closed or shut down rather than fully resolved by age. 91 points
Barge, Gilles
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Cuvée du Plessy
Syrah
1999
$39.99
12.5%
Tight purple core with broader brick red rims, visually remains quite youthful and clean. The nose overflows with stone, olive pits, leather, tar and game sinew, dried grapefruit peel adds to its aggressive pungency which tends to push the currant, cherry fruit to the background. Medium-bodied, has shed weight to get down to essentials, grass, tea leaf, leather, grill fat, olive pits, asparagus and orange pulp. Not much fruit left, some blackberry or cherry with minimal length. Not no stretch mean-spirited yet arguably taciturn and turns its face from you while in conversation. 88 points
Grimaldi, Fratelli
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Nebbiolo
1958
$99.99
Faded rose red to pinkish hue, throwing a considerable amount of chunky sediment, watery rims, looks in good shape in spite of the sediment. Leather, licorice, tar, pressed flowers make for a pleasing nose, some muddy earth too, not much fruit left, attenuated cherry and strawberry scents. The palate is light, quite acidic which helps brighten it, provides backdrop for rose petals and anise, not much citrus left. Leather, tar and asphalt help fill in the blanks. The strawberry, raspberry, cherry fruit comes and goes, as if nodding off to sleep now and then. Roughhewn ending yet time and again manages to find itself once more. 89 points
Grivot, Domaine Jean
Burgundy, France
Echézeaux
Pinot Noir
2002
$89.99
13.5%
Opaque purple core, wide ruby red rims with a light cloudiness, good density to the overall coloration. With earth, tar, cement, leather the nose is somewhat clenched, not quite volatile but close, violets and cherry to blackberry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, good tannic to acidic backbone, on the one hand the cherry, plum, berry fruit is pleasing yet on the other hand the cement, burning smoke, tobacco in the end creates a wine tough-nosed and unyielding. The mixed red fruit is adequate, green apple appears at times. You could make an argument here that the wine is perhaps shut down. Either way, hard to get past the funkiness. 86 points
Kelley Fox
Dundee Hills, Oregon
Maresh Vineyard
Pinot Noir
2011
$60.00
12.5%
Bright violet to ruby-red in color, consistent from the core to the rims, very good clarity and sleekness. The nose displays dill weed, pickles, grasses, orange peel and bing cherry to raspberry fruit scents, hint of caramel, has an outdoorsy ruggedness to match the brightness of the fruit. Medium-bodied, lively and bouncy, there’s no lack of savory counterpoint to the sweetly concentrated strawberry, raspberry, green apple fruit as well as that same caramel note. The acidity does well in restraining the excess in the fruit. Through the mid-palate you get more leather, damp earth and cut grass. Oddly, at the finish the fruit changes course and comes off as underripe yet it maintains liveliness and good linear progression. 88 points
López de Heredia, Bodegas R.
Rioja, Spain
Viña Tondonia
Gran Reserva
Tempranillo
1985
$80.99
12.5%
Bright brick red hue, clean and transparent, washed out rims, clearly aged but not without vigor. Taut nose of fallen leaves, pulped oranges, tar, vanilla powder, tea leaf with fig, candied cherry notes, right in the middle zone of fruit left versus tertiary dominance. Light-bodied, strong acidic spine. Vanilla, cedar from the oak. Light pickled quality along with leaves, twigs, meadow grasses, takes some time before the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit takes hold. The finish clenches up some with a spicy and puckering nature. In the final analysis this bottle is more regally imperious than giving of pleasure. 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Graciano and Mazuelo. 89 points
Keller, Weingut
Rheinhessen, Germany
Westhofener
Brunnenhäuschen
Grosses Gewächs Abtserde QbA Trocken AP #47
Riesling
2008
$115.99
13.5%
High level of shine to an otherwise watery gold hue, utterly transparent and dances in the glass. Pineapple, persimmon, apricot, green apple bloom in the nose, healthy amount of diesel, rubber as well as mint, a touch salty with a saline edge, has both pungency and length, keeps broadening as it opens. Full-bodied, the drying acidity cloaks the palate with a dusty residue accruing. The pineapple, nectarine, peach, green apple fruit is sweet yet tangy. The florality is much more pronounced here in the mouth. The grapefruit, orange citrus is layered and rich. Violets echo through the finish. Today it’s sufficiently “open for business” due to its ripeness yet it also appears nowhere near peak. 92 points
Philipponnat
Champagne, France
Clos des Goisses
Brut
Blend
2002
$229.99
13.0%
Deep golden color helps it fill the glass, nice initial mousse upon the pour, fine and active bubbles, clean surface. Yeasty nose, apples and peaches, toasty with a slight touch of mineral dust but it is really all about the honey and pie crust flakes. Medium-bodied, tight effervescence which does not last through the finish. Cleaner here with more stone dust and less yeastiness and dough notes. Greater brightness in the orange, lemon citrus, sweet like fine powdered sugar. Straightforward apricot, apple, peach flavors. The doughiness does start to elevate through the finish. While it has the contours of a young wine does not point towards how it might develop further. 65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay. (Disgorged November 2011) 90 points
Tegernseerhof, Weingut
Wachau, Austria
Loibner
Steinertal
Smaragd
Riesling
2009
$49.99
13.0%
Well deepened golden color that shows age even as it also possesses a more youthful green tint, not exactly flat but not exactly shiny. The nose is all but solid rubber, even else is smoky and sour, from the grapefruit, orange citrus through the pineapple, green apple fruit scents, only notes of mint and raw baking dough soften things towards the dissolve. Full-bodied, holds itself together more via weight than through acidity. The rubber and dried gasoline pairs up with sauna stone smoke, wet iron flecks and stone to ensure that the pineapple, nectarine, peach fruit has to sweat to be heard. That doughy, yeasty stuff rises up through the finish. Does open and steady itself with air time yet lacks charm and sufficient fruit to provide sweeter resonance. (Screwcap: Stelvin) 87 points
Siebenthal, Viña von
Aconcagua Valley, Chile
Montelìg
Blend
2006
$59.99
14.0%
Blackish purple core, completely opaque, heavyset brick red rims, retains a somewhat youthful vigor to it. Suave nose loaded with buttered popcorn, caramel, mint and cocoa, ripe and expressive plum, cassis fruit scents, modernly styled experience intended to command attention and give easy pleasure. Medium-bodied and has a tanginess which comes as much from the oak as from any acidity. The tannin is well massaged without it losing spine, allows a floral musk to cover the velvety plum, cherry, black currant fruit. Cinnamon and ginger spice pair up with orange zest to keep things lively. Buffers the finish with caramel and toffee notes, some creamed coffee too. Again, quite intelligently crafted and hides its simplicity behind a cloak of seriousness. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Carménère, 30% Petit Verdot. 88 points
Rhys
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Horseshoe Vineyard
Chardonnay
2012
$69.00
13.1%
Filmy with a luminescent glow, solid golden core which loses intensity as it approaches the rims. The nose offers a very fine and crisp oak toast with lime to pink grapefruit, fried butter accents, muscularly succinct peach, nectarine, pineapple fruit scents, wet sauna stone smokiness is what mostly gives it life and length, really stays after you, finally dissolves against its will. Full-bodied, has a tacky, sticky mouth feel which helps as it dulls the palate in the face of razor sharp acidity. Grapefruit, tangerine, lime citrus is by far the star of the show. The persimmon, peach, nectarine, pineapple and pomegranate fruit has plenty of verve and has the raw energy to match that smoky and minerally dimension. Still can stand to integrate the semi-sour oak. No reason to believe the fruit and primary material will not meet the timeline for that. 91 points
Sandlands
Mendocino County, California
Carignane
2013
$28.00
13.8%
Fat glow to the purple core, extends through to the red magenta rims, crystal clear throughout. Plenty of pressed flowers but the nose is really infused with blueberry, boysenberry, plum scents, then orange peel, ends with a flourish of earth and stone, almost savory like soy or something like that. Medium to full-bodied, tannic during the mouth entry, however, by the mid-palate the cherry, blueberry, strawberry fruit spreads widely. More wildflowers, underbrush, sour oranges, accent of cocoa. Very sinewy, remains coiled around the tongue. The finish is long almost because it is clamped down and there’s no choice but to keep going. Has that good kind of chewiness. 89 points
Habermann’s Höhe
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon
2001
$10.99
13.2%
As much reddish black in the core as any purple, the rims segue from red to yellow, skipping orange, neither particularly shiny nor dull. While the nose does display some merde, barnyard and wet straw notes there’s also a solid core of candied cherry to raspberry fruit scents along with potent eucalyptus, cedar and orange peel, finally dissolves with a metallic rust note lingering. Medium-bodied, generous and soft with tannin fully resolved and the same high level of cherry, raspberry to blueberry fruit. The incense, cedar and spiced orange peel remains whereas the funk mostly absent on the palate. The finish is a touch short, perhaps due to the structure having receded. Hard to argue with what’s in the glass, it’s tasty and nowhere near dead. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2016
B. Rodríguez La-Cave, Bodegas
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, Spain
Amontillado Quo Vadis?
Blend
NV
$64.99
20.0%
Quite clear, sparkly brown to orange, yellow hue, lots of vigor. Nutty nose, green apple, peach skin, fig, orange peel, echo of caramel, wild yeasts and pressed flowers, has a sinewy perfume which releases in layers. Medium-bodied, acidic and biting in a controlled manner, the orange to grapefruit citrus bears teeth through the attack. The nuttiness gets cloaked whereas the yeastiness continues to punch forward. Apricot, peach, green apple, pear fruit has snap and spine more than length, and better for it. Minty finish, the citrusy aspect lingers nicely. Its fullness is quite good for the category, does not sacrifice pleasing dryness to attain more powerful richness. Unspecified percentages of Palomino, Pedro Ximénez, Muscat of Alexandria. 89 points
Maillet, Domaine Jacques
Savoie, France
Chautagne Sur Le Terroir du Cellier des Pauvres
Mondeuse
2014
$44.99
10.5%
Luminescently opaque violet core with extremely wide magenta-ruby rims, the wine’s clarity is evident along the edge. Strong merde to burning rubber notes in the nose, yet it’s floral as well, the density of the plum, currant fruit makes it inexpressive, you get more thrust out of the grapefruit to lemon citrus accents, ends with a return to warm roofing tar. Light to medium-bodied which accentuates its tannic to acidic structure, knocking you back on your heels. Leather, cowhide, tar, mineral chunks and sour white grapefruit together create a pungently swirling perfume. Violets add lift to the juicily ripe plum, blackberry fruit, as sour as it is sugary. Turns enjoyably smooth once it opens, likewise deserves air time to resolve some of the funk. 88 points
Pasanau Germans
Priorat, Spain
Dànae
Viognier
2015
$14.99
14.5%
Basic golden hue, saying this in the best way, mild green tint, somewhat flat but this does not interfere with its warm appearance. The nose is built on lilacs, honeysuckle, orange blossom, honeyed pear, yellow apple, apricot fruit scents, glimmer of nuttiness underneath, a few notes of ginger, bottom heavy but not immobile. Medium-bodied, the rich floral dew led by orange blossom. The acidity is average. Nutty, as it opens the lemon to tangerine citrus builds, powdered sugar touch too. Quiet undercurrent of mineral dust. The peach, pear, cherry, apple, melon fruit is more firm than flowing, pulls up before the finish. In some ways the tautness in its cheekbones works in its favor. 88 points
Wendouree
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Shiraz-Malbec
1998
$135.99
13.5%
Youthful and vigorous purple core, the clear rims are mainly ruby with some garnet. Savory nose of soy, leather and earth, pressed flowers bolster the cherry and blackberry fruit, initially remains on the closed side but as it opens the eucalyptus comes to dominate, muscularly constructed. Medium to full-bodied, firm and yet capable of giving. The tannin resolved and the wine comes off as more complete on the palate. Mint, menthol and spiced orange peel move to the front, lighter accents of potpourri. The green apple, red cherry, raspberry, rhubarb fruit displays bite with sacrificing juicy length. When given time the fruit and eucalyptus come to life. Extremely well integrated, smooth persistence. At the beginning of what should prove a long plateau. 92 points
Oller del Mas, Heretat
Pla de Bages, Spain
Bernat Oller
Blend
2014
$17.99
13.5%
Rich, effulgent purple core which extends far into the rims where there is a glowing ruby-magenta hue. Plummy, fruity nose, ripe cherries, ginger and cinnamon, hint of orange, has an underlying woodsy quality that is not quite earthy nor grassy, basically lots of fruit. Full-bodied, plump and juicy with equal gregariousness found here in the plum, black currant, black cherry fruit. Has adequate tannin to dry out the finish before things get boringly sweet. The oak adds that spice and some vanillin sweetness but is in no way dominant. Mild citric tang at the end, mainly grapefruit plus a smoky, leathery aspect. Easy sipping wine. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Picpoll Negre. 89 points
Beringer
Napa Valley, California
Private Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1995
$74.99
13.9%
Clearly matured visually with a core as black as purple, opaque, the rims are red rust to orange and finally yellow. The nose has a roasty volatility to it, camphor, pine, cedar, sandalwood, pulped oranges, the cherry, black currant fruit concentrated yet without much flow, feels like there’s an undertow in your nostrils pulling the scents away from you. Medium-bodied, the acidity continues to have some kick and even the tannin feels like it can clamp down if desired. Coconut, cedar, vanilla powder but the oak has mostly faded away. The metallic, roasted quality continues to permeate the cherry, plum, red currant fruit, no lack of flavor just freshness. Tarry earth and tea leaf trump pine or citrus. Just feels disjointed, partially from age but also suspect this bottle was not the best out there today. 87 points
Scarpantoni
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Maslin Beach Vineyard
Blanche Point
Blend
1999
$7.99
13.5%
The purple core has transitioned to a cough syrup red with rusty red to orange rims, not quite browning but feels like it’s getting there, initial pours show no sign of sediment. The nose has some faded eucalyptus and flowers, replaced mainly by cedar, grill smoke, vanillin powder and scorched earth, the cherry, blackberry scents have credible power as well as liqueur-like concentration. In the mouth it produces more orange to grapefruit citrus, stronger eucalyptus and supporting mintiness. There is a gamey element but on the whole it lacks any unpleasant roastiness. The oak is powdery and yet sweet, not a major drag on things. The main revelation is the richness of the cherry, blackberry, blueberry fruit which holds on from attack through finish. It’s on the downward slope but nowhere near dead. Unspecified percentages of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2016
Brunel, Domaine André
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Les Cailloux
Blend
2000
$36.99
14.0%
Quite clear and transparent, the hue is a sort of washed out red to orange brick, almost reaching yellow at the outer rims. There’s a smoky meaty and earthy quality to the nose, some band aid and rubber as well, chocolate powder, the florality seems diminished, however, still retains a liqueur-like cherry, red berry fruitiness, definitely needs time for the funk to blow off. Medium-bodied, feels as if it has shed some weight. The acidity is pretty good and there’s nice delineation among the the elements. Matured into tar, leather, fallen leaves and plenty of sous bois. There’s dried orange peels, ginger, anise to play with the roasted cherry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit. The latter does trail off at the end, suggesting it being near the back half of its optimal plateau. Provides a pleasing array of tertiary elements. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah. 89 points
Digioia-Royer, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Vieilles Vignes
Pinot Noir
2001
$39.99
13.0%
It is fully transparent with a high sheen to it, the core is a light brick red while the rims have matured fully into more of a burnt orange cast. At first the nose displays a touch of a cheesy to animal fur funk, this eventually gives way to a roasted earthiness like a campfire, cedar, tangy cherry to red raspberry fruit and a certain tarry quality, the fruit is nowhere near shot but no longer the star of the show. Medium-bodied, the acidity is a bit slight so the mouth feel is soft, here the richness of the cherry, raspberry to blackberry fruit is evident. Caramel, lemon drop, floral dew back things up, past the mid-palate you get a considerable amount of that tarry earth and fallen leaves. Does firm up with some air time. Just reminiscent of autumn, likely caught this bottle near peak. 90 points
Scarpantoni
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
School Block Shiraz Cabernet Merlot
Blend
1999
$7.99
14.0%
Clear cough syrup red core that mixes in brown and orange further out, has almost a metallic sheen to it. Earthy funk to the nose, wet decomposing leaves and damp earth, peanut shells, witch hazel, pulped oranges, underneath is a core of candied red cherry and raspberry fruit but it’s hard to get at. Medium-bodied, it continues some of the metallic and “sous bois” volatile funk but here thankfully the fruit exerts more thrust and you get a solid core of plum, cherry, blackberry fruit from start to finish. Honeyed with strongly bitter grapefruit citrus, seems to pull in multiple directions at once. No tannin but seems to have something like acidity still pulsing. This must have been extremely sweet in its youth to have held onto some much of that. 55% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. 87 points
Léoville Poyferré, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1996
$48.99
13.0%
Clear blackish red color, hard to find any purple in there, washed out red rust rims, nice surface shine. Blunt nose of plum, black cherry fruit, wet tobacco leaf, cocoa powder and beef jerky, there’s no denying the breadth of material but sniff as hard as you like and you still don’t get much. Full-bodied, has flesh but comes off as lazy or dull, not showing any structural “pep” from acidity or tannin. Earth, straw, stone add to inert feel. Credible juiciness to the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit, lots of gas left in that tank. Metallic with a mild smokiness, starts to clamp down before it reaching the finish line. May still be waking up, reason to be optimistic for the future. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Léoville Poyferré, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1995
$45.99
13.0%
Purplish core of moderate opacity, bright sunset red rims that turn transparent, likable vivacity of hue. Broad lift to the nose, cedar, stone, damp earth, milk chocolate accents pretty up the red cherry, red currant fruit scents, momentary touch of orange peel, doesn’t force itself on you. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and compact as in figured out its message and no need to waste words. Cocoa, cedar, mineral dust, tea leaf and anise appear first, seems to have stronger acidity to support red cherry, red currant, even raspberry fruit profile. The tannin is fairly suave but not wimpy. Drops a notch in intensity at the finish but prior to that nicely complete and drinking smoothly. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 91 points
Estournel, Château Cos d’
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1995
$69.99
13.0%
Minimal purple left in the core, on the main it’s a crimson red to burnt orange hue, mild yellowish tint at the outermost edge. The nose is fairly big and soft with a velvety texture, sappy plum to blackberry fruit, graphite, tobacco ash and dried blood plays off orange spice and cocoa, ends on a grassy note, does not exhibit any signs of passing middle age. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with thick plum, cherry, currant fruit to the point of voluptuousness. The tannin finally starts to shave away some flesh but its heart not in it, more relaxed. Sweet cedar, mocha and vanilla notes, orange spice, close to mentholated. There’s a pleasing floral lift at the end. Seems open for business and will easily stay the same for years, less confident about future evolution. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. 89 points
Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Blend
1996
$70.00
13.0%
Enough purple left in the core for opacity, extremely broad orange to red rust rims, glow like a sunset. The nose is clean and somewhat quiet, cedar, incense, black pepper and a touch of bell pepper, kind quite “dried fruit” but the plum, black cherry, currant starting to reduce and concentrate rather than lift. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and dense, while floral and cedary it remains primary and loaded with plum, blackberry, cherry fruit. During the mid-palate it turns stony or pebbly with spiced orange peel and graphite notes. There’s no unclenching at the finish and overall it seems unevolved as the tannin cloaks the palate still. If the fruit can stay fresh no rush here at all. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. 90 points
Calon-Ségur, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1996
$45.00
12.5%
Purple core with a good amount of bricking around it, bright orange rust for rims with a suggestion of yellow, looks vigorous given its age. In the nose the fruit seems reduced to a paste like cherry, plum consistency, loamy earth, cedar, leather, there is a stiffening herbal component, on the whole not all that expressive. Medium-bodied, layers itself thickly on the tongue and soaks in well, the tannin seems big at first but with more time sitting with it not so bad. Bell pepper, orange peel, some asphalt to tar notes, The cherry, blackberry, blueberry fruit is no danger of drying out but gets bound up in the structure even now. It’s a nice wine, however, there’s something about it which nags as if underripe or too herbaceous or stemmy. Not sure additional bottle time will smooth it out. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. 88 points
Carbonnieux, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pessac-Léognan
Blend
1999
$24.99
12.5%
Still youthful golden color with bright shine, some intensity loss along the rims. The nose is sort of neutral, friendly maple syrup, vanilla fudge and orange sherbet notes, a skin/pit aspect to the peach, apricot, pear scents, nothing here showing age or meaningful development either. Full-bodied, quite oaky with baking spices, confectioner’s sugar, caramel, gets really spicier over time. The orange to lemon citrus more sweet than tart. Remains fruit-driven with melon, yellow apple, peach and apricot on the main. Broad palate coverage, the acidity is soft yet deceptively sneaks the structure in. Minty freshness at the end as well as lots of whipped cream. Not sure when or if this will mature further. 66% Sauvignon Blanc, 34% Sémillon. 89 points
Taittinger
Champagne, France
Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne
Chardonnay
1999
$169.99
12.0%
Pale straw color with a huge storm of bubbles inside the glass, very clean and transparent. There’s a crisp toast to the nose, noticeably bready with notes of brioche, rose petals, the pear to peach scents seems on the sweeter side, it’s openly knit even as it does anchor itself well in the nostrils. Medium-bodied, soft yet not quite fluffy, the carbonation pushes it both up towards the roof mouth and outwards across the palate. Sweet attack of honey, lemon drop, croissant flakes and then a chalky dryness ensues, firming up the green apple, melon, peach fruit. It strives for precision but not so as to be unapproachable. Seems to be drinking in a good place now. 91 points
Scarpantoni
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Block 3
Shiraz
1999
$7.99
14.5%
Hardly any purple left in the core, more cough syrup red with a broad orange aura at the rims, clear given the large amount of sediment adhered to the bottle shoulder. The nose is somewhat volatile and has a mixture of muddy earth, peanut shells, camphor on top of now candied cherry to plum/prune fruit scents, not much creamy or sweet oak left nor any “pretty” aspects like flowers or eucalyptus. Medium to full-bodied, here you get that last gasp of mint and vanilla cream to help broaden the cherry, blackberry, blueberry fruit, all of which has a decided syrupy sweetness. Alas, that volatile medicinal character interrupts things in the mid-palate and it never quite finds its footing again. Surely was a very good wine once but kind of mumbling to itself in the old age home now. 85 points
Ogier, Domaine Michel
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$59.99
12.5%
Unblemished, clean purple core, bright red to orange clay rims, has a lovely bright glow to it. Iodine, green olives, floral paste, meadow grasses adorn the nose as it also releases cracked leather, beef jerky and grapefruit pith, the red cherry, raspberry scents verge on being high-toned but remain in a lower register. Medium-bodied, bright and lively with resonance. Orange zest, iodine, leather, merde, wet minerals, the cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit is tart with very good length. The mid-palate benefits from a turn to white grapefruit, peppercorns and olive pits whereas nearer the finish you get roasted coffee, mocha and tobacco to green pepper. Tastes remarkably youthful, from the fruit even through to the oak. Seems to be safely on a lengthy plateau. 92 points
Jaboulet Aîné, Paul
Rhône, France
Hermitage
La Chapelle
Syrah
1990
$299.99
Black core with thin reddish-orange rims while it does show a matured age it does not lack for visual vigor. Funky, off-kilter and volatile nose of cocoa, merde, prune and raisin to plum fruit, tarry earth and asphalt, not lacking in length per se but does not seem to stretch out naturally. It’s light to medium-bodied, the acidity is now a bit much for the overall body weight, sends it lurching now and then. Tangy orange zest, some lemon accents, lots of brown dirt, metal and dried blood. At times comes close to those troublesome paint thinner type notes. Even with a respectable amount of cherry, plum fruit as well as cocoa and mocha, turbulence throws off the finish. Each sip starts off well enough, ends less so. Not sure what’s up here. 86 points
Durand, Eric et Joël
Rhône, France
Cornas
Empreintes
Syrah
1999
$37.99
13.5%
Dark, dusky core, more black than purple, the rims are a glowingly dull reddish hue. Has a pretty, lighthearted raspberry, green apple, red cherry profile to the nose, not to underplay the matted straw to dried leaves on earth element, honeyed with baked ham notes. Medium-bodied, strong wiry acidity that pulsates like when you stub your toe. The tannin dampens the mid-palate even as the blueberry, raspberry, blackberry fruit retains its juiciness. Floral more than meaty, some minerality flickers in and out. As you sip more caramel to molasses notes accrue and fill in a few gaps. Candied apple. High level of freshness at this age, however, the total package suggests it has plateaued and this is all you will get. Which is not a bad thing. 90 points
Balthazar, Franck
Rhône, France
Cornas
Chaillot
Syrah
2009
$59.99
13.5%
Bright, glowing purple core, deep magenta rims, retains a youthful visual vigor. Light pepperiness to the nose, fresh blood, stones, not all that sauvage, lots of lift to the cherry, blackberry scents, momentary burst of pickle, modest length in the nostrils. In the mouth it’s medium to full-bodied, early emphasis on the blueberry, boysenberry, strawberry fruit of jam-like sugariness. Thankfully it has plus level acidity which pushes it forward at a steady clip. Stone shards, pebbles much more than minerals, stays cleanly scrubbed here. Basically it’s fruit, earth and not much funkiness, you can tease out a glimmer of green olives or light leafiness. In keeping takes on a big floral musk at the end. 90 points
Chapoutier, Michel
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
La Mordorée
Syrah
1996
$119.99
12.8%
Reddish clay influence throughout, otherwise more purple at the core and orange along the rims. The nose is compact yet expressive with what it has, blend of molasses glazed meats, sea salt, matted fallen leaves, leather, smoky cherry to raspberry fruit. Medium-bodied with a nicely layered feel in the mouth. Prune and raisin notes appear among the cherry, blackberry base, floral with a sturdy stone foundation. The leather and tar nuances build slowly, no greenness at all. Fresh lemon to orange citrus lift the finish, the acidity helps cleanse. Really quite interesting and subtly complex, keeps nudging you to pay attention when you think it has said its all. 89 points
Gerin, Jean-Michel
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Les Grandes Places
Syrah
1999
$124.99
14.0%
Still has some purple to the core but blackening, diminished vivacity in the red to orange rims. Soft, enveloping nose of juicy blackberry, raspberry, cherry fruit, has floral paste, orange reduction, molasses and rubber accents, while earthy it too possesses unusual cleanliness. Full-bodied, dense without sacrificing flow. White grapefruit, lemon sourness intermixes with more savory iodine, black olives and fresh beef blood, nice patina of molasses on top. Blueberry, strawberry, green apple provide higher notes alongside blackberry, cherry fruit base. The honey and candied orange peel sweetness can at times distract you from the underlying sauvage material. Still young, right now has exquisite “sluttiness” and much life ahead. 93 points
Guigal, E.
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
La Landonne
Syrah
1995
$169.99
13.0%
Filmy blackish core, flat red clay rims. Zippy nose of grapefruit pith, mineral shards, olive pits, curious lack of staying power, the mixed dark fruit scents seem to sigh and fade away. Full-bodied, satiny and smooth in spite of its overall richness. Notes of creamed coffee, toffee, and a light nuttiness. Offers sour plum, cherry, raspberry, blueberry fruit of above average length. Orange peel and molasses covered bacon add more depth. Touch of rubber, nothing leaps out at you to suggest a specific terroir. The acidity lifts things up even as it does not create vibrant freshness. Quite the pleasing package if lacking in tertiary dimension. 89 points
Rostaing, Domaine René
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Côte Blonde
Syrah
2000
$57.99
13.0%
The purple core changing to a blackish-brown, the rims are on the light side, mostly red to orange brick. The nose is sauvage with leather, animal fur, tapenade, smoky minerality, even the cherry, blackberry fruit seems roasted some (in a good way), retains brightness and actually closes up some with extended air time. Full-bodied, velvety smooth with lots of volume. Broad array of leather, tar, graphite, tea leaf and impressively rich cherry, plum, blackberry fruit of excellent ripeness. The floral dimension is muscular given the wine’s generally more feminine nature, emphasis on orange blossom. Light green olive burst at the end but nothing herbaceous. The oak is not distinct flavor-wise but adds sweetness and smoothness. 92 points
Chave, Jean-Louis
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Syrah
2001
$299.99
13.0%
Blackish red core, clear with dusky sunset red rims, looking middle-aged, as it is. The nose is most marked by the ripeness of the dark berry, cherry, Italian plum fruit, then the leather and fresh black earth and more dusty minerality, odd note of bell pepper, expands slowly to fill the nostrils. Medium-bodied, compact and sleek, still wound around a core of tannin and acidity, the latter highlights iodine, salt, minerals and an undercurrent of herbaceousness. Gives you orange blossom, roasted cocoa and tar, too clean for real funkiness. Dense black cherry, blackberry fruit core. Huge amount of wet leather at the end in addition to a good deal of licorice. Still rocketing on an upwards trajectory. 1.5 liter bottle. 93 points
Chave, Jean-Louis
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Syrah
1996
$199.99
13.0%
Cloudy red-brick to black core, washed out brick rims. The nose features iodine, tar, fallen leaves, graphite, iron flecks, fairly clean and funkless with smoky cherry, blackberry scents, has really relaxed into itself and chooses its few words well. Medium-bodied, the acidity is still kicking up dust, this spotlights the animal fur, merde, salt lick elements as well as the white grapefruit. Peppery, tarry with pressed flowers and cocoa to chocolate, the last smoothes out some of the more cutting moments. The cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit is starting to simmer down to a reduction but still fully there. Right where it wants to be but the sun might start setting soon. 1.5 liter bottle. 92 points
Chapoutier, Michel
Rhône, France
Hermitage
La Sizeranne
Syrah
1998
$80.99
13.0%
Ruby red to violet core, on the filmy to dull side, the red brick rims fading to orange or yellow. Salty nose and roughhewn with black olives, merde, there’s a compactness to the cherry, blackberry fruit that does not impair expressivity, has a stony and fresh dissolve. Full-bodied, layers itself like syrup on the tongue, blackberry, blueberry, raspberry fruit yet at the same time has a steely, stony edge which adds tart punctuation to the general sweetness. Adroitly blends olives and leather with bittersweet dark chocolate. Has breeding but more intent on easy pleasure, violets and orange blossom. Soaks deeply into the palate by the finish. 90 points
Chapoutier, Michel
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Le Pavillon
Syrah
1996
$129.99
13.5%
Black opaque core with faded reddish orange rims, definitely on the cloudy side. You get roasted cocoa, mocha and beef blood on the nose, very good ripeness to the cherry, blackberry and at times raspberry to blueberry fruit, leather, matted grasses, tobacco, wildflowers, hangs pregnantly in the nostrils. Full-bodied, sweet and tangy cherry, raspberry, blueberry fruit, starts broad and tightens as it progresses. Florality fills the center, fueled by citrus blossom. More sweeter milk chocolate here than cocoa powder. Touch of green pepper brightens the mid-palate. The acidity chugs along some, fuels a few animal notes and it tingles nicely to extend the finish. 90 points
Zind Humbrecht, Domaine
Alsace, France
Clos Haüserer
Vendange Tardive Première Trie
Riesling
1989
$79.99
13.0%
Matured orange golden color, not fully amber, a bit dull but the rims stay full, block-like overall. Molasses, honey, beeswax, apricot paste and peach compote, fresher nectarine, orange reduction, spicy, big and bouncy nostril presence but not much expression of terroir. Medium-bodied, fluid with a soft grip, the acidity is able to push things into tropical territory with dried pineapple, apricot paste, guava, nectarine flavors. Sweetly styled grapefruit to orange citrus fits the established mood. Slight milkiness at times, however, the finish is fresher than expected. The residual sugar mostly resolved so as to more closely approach a dry table wine character. 90 points
Chapoutier, Michel
Rhône, France
Saint-Joseph
Les Granits
Marsanne
2012
$88.99
13.0%
Sparkly golden color, bright surface, green flecks. Spicy oak to the nose, nuts, stone, more muted white pit fruits, just not a lot going on here now, empty. Medium-bodied, more expressive here with elevated nuttiness, vanilla, orange peel. Yet, not much going on in the fruit department, moderate peach, apricot, melon at best. Slight uptick in spiciness at the end. Either it’s bland or perhaps a bit shut down/too young. That said, tries to be friendly even if not much to say. 87 points
Chave, Jean-Louis
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Blend
2000
$120.00
13.0%
Deepening golden color but clear enough rims, the core pools deeply into the glass. Honey, beeswax, pie dough and sweet baking spices fill the nose, mildly poached quality to the pear, apricot scents, keeps piling on with lemon sherbet, honeyed grilled nuts, has an unforced fullness in the nostrils. Full-bodied, layers itself broadly on the palate and coats cheek-to-cheek. Nutty, puckering lemon to orange citrus, more floral too, vanilla custard, cinnamon, yeast. The apricot, peach, melon fruit feels more freshly picked than overripely juicy. Round with a slightly oily texture. The citrus brightens the finish nicely. Not fully matured but getting close. 80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne. 91 points
Guigal, E.
Rhône, France
Condrieu
La Doriane
Viognier
2012
$135.99
14.6%
Bright pale green-gold hue, transparent rims. Fresh, breezy nose of almonds, orange spice, rose petals, scrubbed apricot, peach, pear fruit scents, hint of clove, the oak seems quite light at this point, rises effortlessly in the nostrils. Full-bodied, round but firm with a steady mouth presence. Orange marmalade with even a touch of lime, nutty, too dense to fully release the florality. The apricot, pear, green melon fruit starts off nicely and trails off some, receives supplementation from vanilla fudge notes. The acidity comes off as slightly better than average, helps to lengthen it some. In a good place. 89 points
Villard, François
Rhône, France
Condrieu
Les Terrasses du Palat
Viognier
2010
$54.99
14.0%
Brilliant shine, especially given the darkening of the gold hue, reclines deeply into the glass. Sturdy focus to the nose, perhaps a touch uncommon, orange pits to marmalade, rose water, a good deal of stoniness and demure mixed white pit fruits. Full-bodied with above average firmness and density, the stones and streamwater incline it more towards freshness than a voluptuous profile. Less floral here yet the orange blossom stays at the fore. The acidity is quite nice, towards the back end the nuttiness shows. Apricot, peach, pear fruit rugged throughout. On the whole possesses little of the buxomness the grape normally displays. 90 points
Moreau Père & Fils, Domaine Christian
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Valmur
Chardonnay
2010
$84.99
13.0%
Pale but bright golden color, sparkles with what hue is there. Good piercing quality to the nose, minerals, metallic notes, some brine, as well as pineapple, guava, nectarine fruit and white grapefruit pith, smoky dissolve. Medium-bodied, flattens on the palate as the acidity pulsates more than cuts. The white grapefruit to lemon citrus adds to the already pleasing floral mid-palate. Same bright tropical tang to be found in the pineapple, papaya, nectarine, peach fruit. Quite lively overall, perhaps to distraction. There’s traces of pickled notes at the end. Basically needs to smooth out some and relax. 89 points
Mossé, Château
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Rivesaltes
Vin Doux Naturel
Grenache?
1945
$194.99
16.5%
Light orange to yellow in color with good clarity, looks washed out but not faded per se. Nutty nose bursting with orange marmalade, golden raisin, date fruit, lightly mentholated with caramelized brown sugar notes, pleasing for its lack of alcoholic burn and has natural length to its nostril presence. Light-bodied, seriously nutty on the palate too with more orange marmalade, honey, maple syrup, brown sugar, here the alcoholic heat comes alive. Surprisingly fresh green apple, pear, apricot fruit, tart and even crunchy. In spite of the alcohol there’s an underlying purity and cleanliness. Seriously nutty reverb. Deserves to be given time for small repeated sips. Unspecified grapes, likely majority Grenache Noir, remainder Muscat or Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris. 90 points
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Hillside
Shiraz
1998
$56.99
14.6%
Impenetrable black core, fully bricked red rims with an outer edge of yellow. Some volatility to the nose, peanut shells, nail polish, matted wet grasses and merde, then you get a pungent floral musk and plum, date, raisin to cherry compote fruit scents, the volatile aspect is not directly alcoholic fumes or the like. Full-bodied, thickly layered but nicely balanced given what the nose presents. Chocolate, hazelnut, mint, orange reduction, some damp leather and a hint of black pepper. The prune, plum, raisin, cherry fruit manages to have as much if not more tang than sugariness. Some returning turbulence on the finish. Not sure what to make of this but you can tell the basic ingredients were top notch. 89 points
Binder, Rolf
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Heysen
Shiraz
2005
$60.00
14.5%
Fully opaque black core, thin and dullish brick red rims. Floral dust, uncooked bacon, eucalyptus in the nose with a smattering of orange peel, with bitter dark chocolate, vanilla, coconut the oak scents not that sweet, the cherry, blueberry fruit stays full without showboating. Medium to full-bodied, dry and tacky mouth feel, the tannin is clumpy. Presents ripe and sugary cherry, blackberry, blueberry fruit alongside candied oranges and dense eucalyptus and lesser mint. Here the chocolate, toffee stay in the foreground as unobtrusively as possible. Still, the oak takes up a lot of territory by default. Does not provide much indication of where the future will take it. 88 points
Donelan Family Wines
Russian River Valley, California
Green Valley
Kobler Family Vineyard
Syrah
2012
$60.00
13.5%
Violet core with some ruby flecks, broad magenta rims, overall has a bright surface. Floral nose, spiced orange, milk chocolate then crushed stones, graphite, the black cherry, blackberry fruit is fully ripened, fills out well in the nostrils but not much length. Medium-bodied, it has a honeyed, molasses sweetness, however, the acidity shaves away a lot of excess. The florality is on the delicate side, supported by orange to white grapefruit zest. Over time more milk chocolate appears but so does beef jerky and bacon. Well-integrated, smooth, no real highs, no real lows. 90% Syrah, 10% Viognier. 88 points
Yarra Yering
Victoria, Australia
Yarra Valley
Underhill
Shiraz
2005
$30.00
15.0%
Dusky black-purple core, red to orange rust rims, showing some age. Smells like Cabernet Franc, all green pepper, cut grass and wet minerals, eventually reveals chocolate, beef blood, takes longer for the cherry, plum scents to appear, continues to shift and mutate over time as the wine opens. Medium-bodied, somewhat delicate, metallic and stewed tomato notes, however, sweetly ripe plum, blackberry, blueberry fruit underneath. Through the mid-palate mint, eucalyptus and orange zest materialize. The bell pepper component nowhere near the level of the nose but consistent throughout. At the end the toffee, caramel soaks in. Needs substantial time to open up and even then keep zigging and zagging. 89 points
Jaffurs
Santa Rita Hills, California
Ampelos Vineyard
Syrah
2005
$42.00
15.5%
Impenetrably black core, dark brick red rims, dusky and close to foreboding. Extracted, syrupy nose of plum/prune, black cherry fruit, vanilla fudge, toffee, floral musk, any meat fat of the uncooked variety, offers a shot of green apple as well as a plastic note. Full-bodied and syrupy in the mouth too, the acidity helps scrape it off the palate, plum, raisin, blueberry to redder raspberry, strawberry flavors, the fruit runs all over the map. Burnt dark chocolate, toffee with coffee accents. Out of nowhere a floral explosion arrives. This is so big you can’t get close to any tertiary elements, if they are indeed there. Waiting another five years seems unlikely to budge it. Crafted in that “steamroller” style of the day. 90 points
Jaffurs
Santa Barbara County, California
Upslope
Syrah
2005
$75.00
15.1%
Opaque black core, dense brick red rims, lively glass presence given its age. The nose is infused with melted butterscotch, caramel and mint, the plum, black cherry fruit as packed in there as possible, manages the alcohol well enough, overall the lack of development makes it seem on the mute side. Full-bodied, unctuous with syrupy caramel, butterscotch slathered on top of the blueberry, strawberry, blackberry fruit, hint of green apple. Smoky coffee roast and grill fat fill the mid-palate. The fruit keeps rolling along, the acidity tries to exert itself, the tannin nonexistent. The syrupiness actually keeps the sweetness reasonable by gluing the wine to the palate. Monolithic. Grapes unspecified percentages from Thompson Vineyard, Verna’s Vineyard, Bien Nacido Vineyard. 90 points
Chavy-Chouet, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Les Genévrières
Chardonnay
2013
$59.99
13.0%
Clear, watery worn gold color, totally empty rims, even as hueless as it is has a block-like appearance in the glass. Sparkly orange, lemon citrus to the nose, fine toast and butterscotch, has a serene calmness to its nostril penetration, the pear, apple, apricot scents have snap, on the leaner side but not lacking. Medium-bodied, good focus but sweeter with richer peach, apricot, green melon, cantaloupe flavors, plenty juicy. The toast is tight and bright. buttery but not the sweetest oak accents. A green apple driven finish points out a fair bit of underlying acidity. Good, not great, showing. 88 points
Grosset
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Polish Hill
Riesling
2002
$25.99
13.0%
Green permeates the white to yellow straw hue, transparent with brilliant shine. Bursting with rubber, diesel notes, has a broad and dense nostril presence, lemon curd, subtle undercurrent of sparkly minerals, more pear, apple scents than peach, as it warms some vanilla custard comes through. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, the acidity gives it an electric charge that lifts and actually helps it avoid excessive dryness. Here melon, apricot, peach comes to the fore. The citrus is juicy and brings as much sweetness as dryness, pink grapefruit to mandarin orange. The rubber holds off to a retronasal charge. Has a saline aftertaste too. Strong grip throughout, kind of restrains the florality. Drinking well, on a long plateau. (Screwcap) 91 points
Huet, S.A.
Loire, France
Vouvray
Le Mont
Sec
Chenin Blanc
2005
$28.99
12.0%
Soft layering into the glass, diffused golden hue, more surface reflectivity than richness. Lanolin, beeswax, orange marmalade, croissant flakes in the nose yet stays remarkably fresh, crisp peach, apricot, yellow apple scents, flicker of honey, overall it’s quite open for business. Medium-bodied, much more forceful and broad in the mouth, this in spite of average acidity. More balanced than bracing with honey, wax, rose petals, the more you sip the more the yeastiness accrues. Pit fruit character to the apricot, peach, nectarine fruit with apple to melon overtones. The fruit outlasts the stoniness, even with a pungent smoky lift at the end. 89 points
Pépière, La
Loire, France
Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
Granite de Clisson
Melon de Bourgogne
2005
$39.99
12.5%
Clear gold, pale if shiny with empty rims. Lilacs and violets bloom in the nose, riper peach, apricot, nectarine fruit with a honeyed touch, sinks into your nostrils, any chalkiness requires time to take up increasing space. Full-bodied, doughy and honeyed in the mouth too with orange spice. Here much more stone and even earthiness. More lemony over time. The peach, apricot, pear flavors are of excellent ripeness, more density than fluidity. Displays a dewy florality. The acidity comes off as average, as a result the wine sinks into the palate more than dance or skip across. Evokes an “old vine” feel and texture. 1.5 liter bottle. 88 points
Murrieta, Bodegas Marqués de
Rioja, Spain
Castillo Ygay
Gran Reserva Especial
Tempranillo
1970
$99.99
13.0%
Little purple left in the core, reddish black, thick yellow to orange rims, aged but has some nice glow. There’s a cheesy quality to the nose, volatile, good amount of dill, roasted cherry fruit, tar, leather, coconut, pressed flowers, overall has credible penetrating power. Medium-bodied, plenty of flesh left for its age and the caramel, butterscotch, coconut flavors from the oak going strong. The acidity cuts through like a jagged knife. Piquant cherry, raspberry fruit with zesty lemon and dill to cedar overtones. Followed on by fallen leaves, tar, the texture is gluey in a “settled into itself” way. The tang substitutes for an integrated, harmonious experience. Mostly Tempranillo, remainder Mazuelo, Graciano, Garnacha. 88 points
Sandrone, Luciano
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Cannubi Boschis
Nebbiolo
1996
$85.99
14.0%
More black than purple in the core, worn yellow-orange rims, definitely showing its age. Roasted cherry, blackberry fruit in the nose, tar, cocoa and licorice, some leather or salt lick, on the advanced side even allowing for its age. Medium-bodied, soft and giving with enough acidity to keep it plugging forward. Similar array of leather, tar, grapefruit pith, cedar, the oak has on the whole knit in, especially in terms of adding sweetness to the profile. More licorice and rose with additional sips. The sour cherry, raspberry fruit starts off with a bang and trails off from there. Odd that it is so tired at this point, perhaps it’s just this specific bottle. 87 points
Moccagatta
Piedmont, Italy
Barbaresco
Basarin
Nebbiolo
2001
$39.99
14.0%
Reddish black core, plenty of sediment even after sitting up for days, brick red rims, yellow furthest out. Thick and layered scents of plum/prune, cherry fruit, sandalwood, dried roses, dried blood and light pine, at this point the nose still depending on the fruit to impress. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, tangy and acidic with zippy citrus. Admirable initial thrust to the cherry, blackberry fruit, juicy with supporting accents of mint and anise. Lowkey leather and tar, on the whole clean and not showing undue oak residue. Hard to sound confident that it will improve and the more you sit with it, arguably beginning to dry out so chances are best drunk up soon. 88 points
Fontanafredda
Piedmont, Italy
Barbaresco
Nebbiolo
1952
11-14%
Almost pinkish red core, throwing lots of fine sediment, the rims more yellow than orange. The nose is dominated by tertiary elements like tar, salt, asphalt, leather and smoked meats, close to zero fruit left, this is like sniffing around a construction site. Light to medium-bodied, presses into the tongue, sour oranges, some pine but, again, it is mainly tar, cement, packed brown dirt, iron, graphite. Stays alive due to the acidity providing a withering pucker. Pressed rose petals help tease out echoes of cherry or strawberry. Elevating sour grapefruit through the finish. Remarkable for its lack of glaring flaws or volatility from being more or less skin and bones at this point. 89 points
Quintarelli, Giuseppe
Veneto, Italy
Veneto IGT
Secco Ca’ del Merlo
Blend
2013
$39.99
12.5%
Medium-grade golden color which is solid through the rims, good clarity, the shine is average. The nose is fairly explosive, huge floral dew, orange marmalade, cinnamon, clove, apple, melon, cherry with a light touch of pie dough, keeps unfolding albeit actually more active when served colder. Medium-bodied, densely packed for its weight with orange zest, and pear, yellow apple, melon, apricot fruit, more sheer concentration than juiciness. Smooth with lower acidity, uses its weight to push through to the finish line. Displays vanilla and whipped cream nuances and a sweetly nutty finish. Just a pure pleasure wine. Unspecified percentages of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Bianco, Chardonnay, Saorin. 91 points
Vatan, Edmond
Loire, France
Sancerre
Clos La Néore
Sauvignon Blanc
2007
$64.99
13.0%
Clear golden straw hue, moderate shine with hueless rims, does not betray much age. Some leesy, yeasty notes to the nose, at times evocative of flor, apple to pear reduction, lemon peel, wet stone, flattens a bit in the nose. Medium-bodied, the acidity is on the weaker side, lots of lemon to lime taking up territory. Not shy about the raw dough and pie crust elements. The green apple, pear, melon to apricot pit is average in intensity but lasts through to the finish. The stone component remains on the muted side, mostly present at the end. Perhaps dumb or slightly mistreated, in any case this bottle was not showing much. 87 points
Droin, Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoît
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Clos
Chardonnay
2007
$65.99
13.0%
Not that shiny but not dull either, greenish-gold, pools decently into the glass. Sparkly minerality in the nose with a lot of lemon-lime zest which has a powdery aspect, ripe and round apricot, peach, pear fruit, benefits from a strong floral lift. Medium-bodied, firm with a taut acidic spine, good amount of stone and quinine. Much tarter lemon citrus, puckering. As in the nose it opens well with a floral pungency but it’s the kaleidoscope of citrus as well as the sauna smokiness which run the table. Excellent length, appears to have plenty of time ahead. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2016
Weltner, Weingut
Franken, Germany
Rödelseer
Küchenmeister
Hoheleite Grosses Gewächs QbA Trocken AP #16
Sylvaner
2013
$42.99
13.5%
Odd in that it has a basically yellow hue to it but then develops green flecks too, this normally more associated with a whiter hued wine, mild layering into the glass, neither especially shiny nor dull across the surface. Strong smoky minerality to the nose as well as vanilla, marzipan, lemon meringue, and flowers, the peach, apricot, persimmon fruit lacks expressive length until it gains some with air time. Full-bodied, broadly structured with block-like acidity and firm grip. Licorice, sauna stones and slate with more zesty tangerine, white grapefruit bite, in turn the pineapple, guava, nectarine, apricot moves into tart tropical territory. Slow squeezing of the tongue through the finish as it gets smokier and smokier. Strikes one as too young to fully appreciate, hopefully it loosens up and softens with some age. 89 points
Beringer
Napa Valley, California
Private Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1993
$65.00
14.1%
The core remains a solid purple but it has shrunken in the face of widening brick red to ember red hues, slight touch of orange farthest out. The dark berry to cherry fruit has faded in the nose but nowhere near dead, this pushes the vanilla and cedar to the fore but it’s the dried beef jerky, iodine, leather and leafiness which runs the show, however, it is actually much nicer than that sounds and suitably complex. Medium-bodied, quite smooth and fluid with minimal tannic grip at this juncture. Here the blackberry, boysenberry, black cherry fruit accords itself well and persists into the finish. The cedar is joined by eucalyptus and pine notes with a certain citrusy edge. The oak is like vanilla powder and adds more drying texture than flavor. More simple here and has an overall shortness at the finish but it leaves you very happy drinking it. 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc. 90 points
Billon, Maryline et Christophe
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Les Elotins
Syrah
2010
$44.99
13.0%
Dark violet core of good clarity, solid luminescence in the ruby-magenta rims, fully hued throughout. The nose has stone to mineral dust, olive pits, peppercorns. Dried grapefruit pith and hard-edged black cherry, dark berry scents and comes off as shut down or closed, this regardless of air time afforded the wine. Medium-bodied, starts off quite tannic but here it does soften with time to release raspberry, cherry, cranberry fruit so it is not hollow in the mid-palate. A floral breeze also fills in the middle while the white grapefruit drops a notch. Too focused and clean to evoke much game or leather notes, perhaps iodine. Unevolved, not short but grinds to a halt rather than try to stretch further. Needs five years easy, likely more. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2016
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1999
$20.95
13.0%
While there is purple left in the core, it’s equally black and the vast majority of coloration is a vibrant burnt crimson to brick red, good clarity with excellent vigor for its age. Cedar, sandalwood, vanilla and a sweet smokiness preside in the nose, the red cherry to red currant fruit present while lacking in persistence, a few green apple notes, underneath is a mild layer of tar, graphite and dried autumn leaves. Light-bodied, the tannin has softened quite a bit so that it soaks into the pallet with ease. More staying power here in the cherry, blackberry fruit but no lift. Smokier with more caramel and honey than oaky vanilla. The cedar less prominent. Finishes short and a touch sour. Nice enough but below the standard of what you expect for the wine. 60% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc. 87 points
Habermann’s Höhe
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Grenache
2002
$10.99
14.6%
Purple core is quite faded and gives way with ease to brown and yellow hues nearer the rims, bricking with age but the liquid is clear and unblemished. The nose is very cedary and spicy, close to incense like intensity, liqueur-like raspberry, strawberry fruit scents, melted Jolly Ranchers, as it opens you get more of a wet grassiness and slight animal fur thing. Medium-bodied, retains all that incense, spice and cedar but gets even sweeter with syrupy raspberry, cherry, strawberry flavors. There is a dry dustiness which accrues through the mid-palate to finish and which puts a slight damper on the fruit’s punctuation. Some mixed sour white citrus as well as leather and earth. Outside of the weakish finish it has held up well and remains likable. 87 points
Acacia
Napa Valley, California
Carneros
Beckstoffer Las Amigas Vineyard
Pinot Noir
1997
$16.99
14.9%
The core is now a sunset to rust red, hardly any purple left, skips over orange and segues to yellow along the rims, mild filminess throughout. Smoky with a high toast to the oak even today, almost charred, roasted cherries and raspberries, muddy earth, not volatile but everything about it is tense and angular. Full-bodied and close to heavy, the ripeness gives it a clingy quality. On the plus side there’s lots of flavor left in the cherry, blackberry fruit as well as cola and orange citrus accents. Here the oak seems more knit in and less overt, more toasty than creamy, some cedar going on. Can’t call it clumsy, however, the years of aging have not revealed its bones and chances are high it will never be a wine of delicate words. 88 points
Ripoll Sans, Cellers Marc
Priorat, Spain
Closa Batllet
Blend
2001
$24.99
14.5%
Warmly opaque red-purple core, lots of sediment on the bottle shoulder but liquid seems clear enough, more faded brick red along the rims. Plummy nose with ripe mixed berry scents, remains primary, some cocoa and flowers, orange zest, street concrete, even with good overall fullness starts to shut down with added air time. Medium-bodied, sets itself broadly and has a sweet, liqueur-like attack before turning dusty and dry through the finish. The toast, vanilla, cocoa and whipped cream flavors make it clear the oak has gone the distance as much as the raspberry, blueberry, black cherry fruit. Licorice and flowers pretty it up some. Minimal tertiary development, does not give you a sense of where it is going or even if it is there. But it’s tasty and warms the belly. Approximately 67% Cariñena, remainder Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2016
Habermann’s Höhe
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Shiraz
2002
$10.99
13.6%
All the purple seemed to have bled out of the core leaving a blend of black and brick red at the core mixing in orange clay hues along the rims. The nose requires patience to allow it to open up, when it does you get eucalyptus, beef jerky, iodine, burnt grill fat, green olives and then licorice adorned red cherry to currant fruit scents, overall more angular than resonant. Medium-bodied, the acidity is alive and kicking and teases out more white grapefruit and olives here as well as medicinal, witch hazel like notes. Grilled meat, leather and iron flesh things out further. While there’s no legit gripe about the level of currant, cherry, blackberry fruit it’s not in the spotlight. The eucalyptus creates a powerful retronasal effect. If you don’t mind the sourness this has held up quite well. 88 points
Prager, Weingut
Wachau, Austria
Weissenkirchen
Steinriegl
Smaragd
Riesling
1999
$69.99
13.0%
Full-on amber orange color, clear though, obviously an older wine and arguably looks older than it should, almost like an aged Sauternes. The nose is all cookie dough, baking spices, orange peel and honey, an echo of pineapple, peach, nectarine fruit and then finally some rubber accents for punctuation, gives little sense of terroir. Full-bodied, the mouth feel is on the flat and fat side, noticeably sweet with emphasis on dough, yeast, honey, orange marmalade. Seems maderized and tired even if there is no lack of flavor in the peach, apricot, pineapple, mango fruit, close to poached consistency. Acidity barely showing up for duty. As a result lacks the freshness to lift and lengthen. Probably had the stuff earlier in life or this bottle just suffered more than it should have. 86 points
Bea, Azienda Agricola Paolo
Umbria, Italy
Montefalco Sagrantino Secco
Vigna Pagliaro
Sagrantino
2007
$59.99
14.5%
The dense purple core displays clarity while getting as close to opacity as possible given the former, the rims are a cough syrup red to brick red hue, vivid and youthful in this middle aged state. The nose is incredibly sappy with plum to prune and cherry liqueur notes, licorice, fennel and tar, damp potpourri and pine, its richness is noteworthy. Full-bodied, surprisingly tame tannin, anchors itself well on the palate but lacks the arch dryness one can find in this type of wine. Instead, as in the nose, it shoves the superripe plum, cherry fruit to the fore. Pine, licorice, orange peel and cloves, at the end there’s some forest scrub and damp earth. Crazy drinkable for where it is at in its evolution. 91 points
Habermann’s Höhe
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002
$10.99
14.1%
As much straight up black as purple in the core, full on brick red rims, could see it taking on an orange cast if allowed to age even further, no cloudiness but does not come off as spotless either. The nose appears fully matured with a full load of eucalyptus to pine notes, plum, cherry fruit tinged by prune and raisin, some traces of vanilla, clove spice and mesquite grill smoke, has a lot of fullness in the nostrils. Medium-bodied with a softness which helps it coat the palate, were there a strong tannic structure in its past, resolved at this point. Smoky and loamy, cedar and vanillin spice more apparent here, still has that grill smokiness. The plum to prune fruit juicy and flavorful still, if anything its sweetness dumbs down the overall experience. The eucalyptus goes on and on through the finish. Very nice wine, not profound and not possessed of vast tertiary characteristics but very nice nonetheless. 89 points
Alternatively you can continue on to read tasting notes on other older wines Hanes has put out of their misery.