Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in October 2015
Piuze, Patrick
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Forêts
Chardonnay
2010
$39.99
12.5%
Full-on golden color, overall clean yet with a distorting layered effect, visually does not appear to have aged much. Mint and vanillin oak lead in the nose, chalk and stone dust, it’s fairly fat and not as of yet fully expressive, peach, apricot, yellow apple and a touch of jalapeno even, not shut down but close. Medium-bodied, spicy with sour lime and lemon citrus, pine and clove. The pear, green apple, peach fruit remains steady, juicy and unobtrusive. Sweetens further via lavender, pie dough and mild honey nuances. The acidity is “good plus” but not great, the wine’s bones need to be showing more. Rich finish, broadens well as it warms. Zesty, should show moderate improvement over 4-6 year horizon. 90 points
Kuenhof
Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy
Eisacktaler
Veltliner
Grüner Veltliner
2005
$24.99
13.5%
Bright darker yellow hue with a green glint one would normally associate with a more white hay color, full into the rims and not very aged looking. The nose highlights clay and wet stones, floral paste, ginger, the green apple, kiwi, green grape fruit scents are ripe, overall has an understated persistence and a dewy clinginess. Medium-bodied, here you get more raw baking dough, honey and cinnamon in support of the apple, pear, persimmon fruit. Orange spice, some lemon sherbet, the citrus more sweet than sour. The acidity is low which contributes to its sense of fatness, however, it does not seem sloppy or weak. Floral ending with an unusual burst of cocoa. Gains richness when warmer. A curious wine but not weird. 89 points
Dorigo, Girolamo
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Vigneto Montsclapade
Blend
2001
$20.00
13.5%
Rust red influenced purple core, dried red rose petal to red clay hued rims, clear enough although it does throw a fine sediment at the end of the bottle. The nose displays a lot of creamy oak still, whipped cream, vanilla bean, cedar, menthol and a hint of dill, mildly roasted to reduced nature to the cherry, blackberry fruit scents, fresh leather and tar, no greenness nor unsettling funk. Full-bodied, loses a little weight at the finish, remains fruity with a ripe sweetness. That cedar, vanillin oak brings a floral perfume as well, accents of cocoa. The cherry, blackberry base deepens into plum, just manages to avoid a dried fruit concentration. Saddle soap, leather and sweet garden herbs round it out. Has developed but not that dependent on tertiary flavors for effect. At this juncture can’t imagine there’s untapped upside just risk of losing fruit. But it is delivering damn well right now. Approximately 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, remainder Merlot, Cabernet Franc. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in August 2015
Lagrange, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1999
$24.50
13.0%
Spotless purple core, not quite opaque, vibrant red ruby to garnet rims, barely showing any age. The nose has advanced but likewise not that much, marked by oaky notes of cedar, dill, caramel and cocoa as well as grill smoke, there’s a mildly roasted nature to the cherry, red currant fruit scents, rawhide, salt lick, wet herbal matter, persistently rich. Full-bodied, sweet with savory lift. The plum, black cherry, currant fruit seems inching towards dried fruit nature and could easily end up there. Cedar, mint, pine, licorice and orange pekoe tea nuances all add to agreeability. Firms up with notes of clove or nutmeg. The tannin has power left but does not get in the way of the fruit’s full expression. There may be upside in further aging but the lack of tertiary development at this point suggests it is about all it shall be. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot. 89 points
Alvear
Montilla-Moriles, Spain
Solera 1927
Pedro Ximénez
NV
$39.99
16.0%
The opaque brown core yields to deep yellow rims, the liquid is clear and the surface displays good shine. The nose betrays a little burn yet this is quickly subsumed by oodles of date, golden raisin, fig and honey notes, light sweet cracker to scone accents, seems to possess some lingering smokiness, ends with a bracing burst of green apple and blanched nuts. Medium-bodied, coats every pore of the mouth in a syrupy consistency. Milk chocolate, date, raisin, and plum to prune fruit dominate, candied oranges and more of the sweet flakey dough. Here you get more sweet cigar smoke to grill smoke for added contrast. Notable for how the cleanliness of the finish without sacrificing flavor intensity. Rock steady and versatile. 375 ml bottle. 92 points
Chapoutier, Michel
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Brune et Blonde
Syrah
1995
$24.99
12.8%
The core has shifted from purple to brick red, strong orange rust hues, clearly aged but spotless with youthful surface shine. Big fluffy florality in the nose, spiced orange peel, good supporting earth and leather, anise and touch of mocha, the cherry to red currant fruit scents have presence but just starting to unravel, not many meaty nuances. Medium-bodied, nicely balanced, smooth as the tannin has been reduced to a fine powder. The acidity is slight, you can the tannin did the structuring earlier on. Licorice, orange peel, potpourri, mild note of butterscotch. Odd fruit profile of strawberry, red cherry, raspberry, minimal dark fruit presence. What fruit is there holds on credibly, yet no longer in the prime of its power. Still, for a lighter weight version this delivers the goods. 90 points
Gaunoux, Domaine Jean-Michel
Burgundy, France
Pommard
Les Perrières
Pinot Noir
2008
$57.99
13.0%
Crystal clear ruby-violet, consistent color core to rims, fully transparent, looks bottled yesterday. Brightly toned nose of lemon zest, snappy cherry, cranberry fruit, segues to mushroomy earth, strikes a good balance between said fruit and earth, modicum of clove and cinnamon stick, satisfying and indicates more youthful than evolved. Full-bodied without heaviness, sweet character to the strawberry, raspberry, rhubarb fruit which pushes it to the fore. More of that clove to cumin spice, not excessively sweet, juicy lemon pulp notes. Offers stoniness more than minerality, clean and no funkiness. The tannin has resolved partially yet does tend to clump up through the finish and thus increase a drying palate. No greenness yet that mushroom accent lurks off to the side. Given the way the tannin has released with the fruit still juicy, drinking in a great place now. 90 points
Colinot, Anita, Jean-Pierre & Stéphanie
Burgundy, France
Irancy
Vieilles Vignes
Pinot Noir
2006
$18.99
13.0%
Not much violet in the core, more burnt sunset red to orange in hue, good overall cleanliness and clarity. Smoky nose, leans heavily on muddy earth, sous bois, minerals, not showing a lot of fruit, what’s there is mostly roasted cherry, dark berry scents, lasts well for its general moderate weight. Medium-bodied, during the attack good roundness in the mouth in spite of its strong tannic foundation. More fruit here, cherry, raspberry, cranberry but this does not last until the end. Stony, poor earth, dried forest matter, no delicacy, all rugged backwardness. Minimal florality or citrus presence. The acidity is more mild, tannin does all the work. What you see is what you get, starts off well but finishes hard as nails. 86 points
Guillot-Broux, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Mâcon-Cruzille
Les Perrières
Chardonnay
2009
$49.99
13.0%
Pleasingly deep golden hue, borderline luminescent, the rims full, its lack of shine balanced out by its glow. The nose bursts with butterscotch, whipped cream, yeast and raw pie dough, lemon curd, reduced aspect to the peach to apple scents, quite heavy without much lift or perfume. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity helps save the day otherwise it would feel flat in the mouth. Yeast, dough, pressed flowers, mint, lemon reduction, cinnamon, the baking spices keep it from total immobility. The apricot, peach, golden apple fruit at turns fresh or of a more dried fruit character. Those baking spices dominate the end, brings a touch of iodine and limestone too. All told, more interesting than viscerally satisfying. 87 points
Mitchell
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Peppertree Vineyard
Shiraz
1999
14.5%
About equal parts purple to brick red in the core, mild gauziness, the rims are a strongly burnt sunset red, visually advancing in age but not advanced per se. The nose is flat and the alcoholic fumes come through, smoky and roasty plum, cherry, mixed berry fruit, tends to bury the eucalyptus some, underpinning of leather, some old pressed flowers, simply not much going on. Medium-bodied, better acidity than expected, the tannin might have had some punch back in its youth. The plum, cherry fruit retains a small amount of residual sweetness but is starting to trail off. Smoky here as well with a low level of supporting eucalyptus. No real citrus presence, not really gamey, a few accents of beef jerky. Peppery finish. Actually not bad at all and does grow on you after a while. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2015
Beyer, Domaine Léon
Alsace, France
Vendange Tardive
Gewürztraminer
1983
$29.99
11.0%
Dark bronze orange in color, full rims, not a great deal of shine but the hue has a pleasing warmth to it. Smoky nose with an undercurrent of mushroom and earth, the apricot to peach, pear fruit not particularly expressive but at the same time has not reduced to a dried fruit nature, light dusting of baking spices and old orange rinds. Medium-bodied, lacks acidity and grip which hampers its length somewhat. Diesel fumes and oil smoke with tar and graphite in support. Sour blood orange citrus, clove and ginger root, only mildly nutty. The apricot, pear, peach fruit has on the whole dried out and drifted off, not much sweetness left. All things considered it remains in decent shape, however, way past its peak. 86 points
Haart, Weingut Reinhold
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen
Spätlese AP #9
Riesling
2001
$23.99
8.5%
The golden hue has definitely deepened into late middle age, not quite bronzed but darker than in its youth, rims still transparent and hueless, average shine at best. Has developed a pleasingly high amount of rubber notes in the nose, still it is mostly plush and agreeable with whipped cream, milk, tangerine and lime citrus, mint and rose water scents, there is a poached to dried fruit nature to the apricot, peach, pear and pineapple fruit component. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and wears it thickness easily from start to finish. The acidity is okay, does its best work at the end to create punctuation to the whole. The milky, vanillin qualities persist, licorice and anise as much as mint here. Vivid nectarine, pineapple, apricot fruit, fresh and semi-tropical. The rubber aspect knit in more. Not getting much stone or mineral, comes off more as clay or more inert terroir stuff. Tangy ending brings it all together. Likely at its best. 90 points
Chevalier, Domaine de
Bordeaux, France
Graves
Blend
1976
Blackish core with red rust to then dark yellow rims, just short of brown, good clarity and minimal sediment. There is a palpable medicinal, wet mineral aspect to the nose, the fruit is pruney here but more normal plum, black currant present too, hints of tomato skin, some sweeter cedar, noticeable absence of herbaceous or bell pepper notes. Full-bodied, thick and viscous feel, tannins completely resolved and verging on absent. Loses most of that volatility here, amazing amount of fruit left, lively plum, blackberry, currant fruit. Smokier with a high level of minerality and damp barnyard earth. Cedar, tar and then a flutter of dried grapefruit pulp. Again, no discernible greenness. Can’t say it is amazingly complex but displays plenty of vigor. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Standish Wine Company, The
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
The Relic
Shiraz
2002
$51.99
14.5%
Pure black core, very dense rust red to crimson rims, it wears it all quite naturally, yet seems well into its aging curve. Grill smoke, molasses, leather, dried orange peels, toasted coconut and melted chocolate swirl about the nose, the roasted qualities lend prune notes to the plum, cassis, black cherry base, still today loaded with fruit scents. Medium-bodied, oddly high-toned rather than sappy, adds smokiness to the grill fat. Honey, molasses and candied oranges fatten it some. Note of green apple among the cherry, plum, currant fruit, the prune and raisin is haphazardly in and out. The oak has its moments of sweetness yet is more smoky in the final analysis. Yes, it is starting to dry out but remains clicking on all cylinders. 93% Shiraz, 7% Viognier. 92 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2015
Cal Demoura, Mas
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Coteaux du Languedoc
l’Infidèle
Blend
2004
$19.99
13.0%
Opaque purple core, seems a little cloudy, filmy and broad rust red rims, looks aged but likely always looked a little this way. The nose is animal fur, leather, damp muddy earth, very smoky to the point of acrid, brings a roasty quality to the cherry, red currant fruit scents, aided by orange pulp and an undercurrent of flowers, offers more brawn than complexity. Full-bodied with a sappy texture, really clings to the mouth. Sugary plum, currant, cherry fruit, strong cocoa to milk chocolate accents. The orange to grapefruit citrus is sweet and a major influencer. Loses a sizable amount of the animal aspect found in the nose but keeps the leather, tar, earthiness. Short finish, has likely given all it’s got. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault. 87 points
Chan Family Vineyards
Napa Valley, California
Arima Barrel IV
Cabernet Sauvignon
2010
13.1%
Dark purple core but not opaque, dusky red rust rims, lifeless but well hued and verging on brooding. Thick blackberry, raspberry, cherry fruit in the nose, some pine and then a big blast of jalapeno and bell pepper, the vanilla to butterscotch accents are proportionate in the main, big and brash presence with staying power. Full-bodied, feels astringent and dry in a powdery fashion but not that disturbing. The blueberry, blackberry, cherry fruit more sugary than juicy per se. You better like bell pepper because it’s here in spades. Can’t discern much tannin but the acidity feels like it has kick. Relies on the fruit to great extent but never escapes that herbaceousness. Caramel, toffee, butterscotch all onboard, no stinting on the oak. In the end it creates an impression of an assemblage of parts more than integrated whole. 87 points
Chan Family Vineyards
Napa Valley, California
Arima Barrel I
Cabernet Sauvignon
2010
13.1%
Lighter purple to maroon, scarlet in color, verging on transparent, the rims display modest bricking. Sour cherry and blackberry fuel the nose, solidly fruity but nothing decadent, the caramel and chocolate nuances are just that, same for the merde, muddy earth and maybe rubber notes, ginger root, the lack of makeup is a plus but it needs more breadth to carry the day. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, sweeter profile to the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit, at times takes on a bubblegum aspect. Butterscotch, toffee pick up speed through the mid-palate to finish. Stabilizes into tobacco, tar, cedar elements which is pleasant. The acidity is more active than the tannin. Thins out a little at the end but not all that noticeably. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2015
Anthill Farms
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Campbell Ranch
Pinot Noir
2012
$48.99
12.9%
Somewhat cloudy, small purple core, red rust rims with close to empty rims, on the dull side. Slight roasty nature to the cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit scents, blends in cola, horse sweat, touch of pine scrub, tart lemon peel, wildflowers and then cocoa, sinewy to the point of evanescence. Medium-bodied, taut and acidic, stops short of puckering. Lemon, grapefruit leads the way for the strawberry, cherry pits and even apricot fruit. Tannins starts to dust up and dry out the mid-palate. The stone element tends to bring it to a halt, lacks flow, clipped just when you want it to keep going further. You do get a nice kick of licorice and cola at the finish. Just tries too hard at not trying hard. 86 points
Bründlmayer, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Ried Loiser Berg
Beerenauslese
Grüner Veltliner
1995
$50.00
14.5%
Warm glow to the bronzed orange color, just a slight shift to yellow at the rims, clear but lacking in shine. Rich nose of apricot, peach and apple fruit, some whisky like notes, tangerine rind, muted florality, sweet smokiness, satisfying in its simplicity, moderate staying power and length. Light to medium-bodied, the tangerine to pink grapefruit citrus shows how the acidity still has kick. Snap pea, grass, earth sneak in front of the apricot, pear, nectarine, pineapple fruit. Lacks textural softness and cling which likely hampers its presence through the finish. It’s a good, uncomplicated sweetie but for sure on its last legs. 375 ml bottle. 87 points
Zind Humbrecht, Domaine
Alsace, France
Herrenweg
Sélection de Grains Nobles
Gewürztraminer
1986
$60.00
14.0%
Bronzed orange to brown, for all of its matured color has very nice clarity, full golden rims, pools down into the glass. The nose seems to have fallen of, apricot, peach paste, molasses and some grill smoke but the smokiness is akin to doused campfire, the sous bois is yet undeveloped, probably not going to happen, lost its sweetest core but this has not been replaced with many tertiary elements. Medium-bodied, soft and short. Nutty with sour orange citrus, sweetens slightly into tangerine. Floral in part, cinnamon and nutmeg spice. Nectarine, peach, apricot, pear fruit has as much thrust as you’d expect at its age. Not horrible, you rolled the dice on it but did not get that mushroomy, earthy stuff you want and hope for. 85 points
Travaglini, Giancarlo
Piedmont, Italy
Gattinara
Nebbiolo
2007
$26.99
13.5%
Dusky crimson to brick red hued core, the rims more faded roses to rust water, average clarity. The nose alternates between roasted cherry to fresher watermelon, strawberry fruit, leather, muddy earth and old oak, touch of black licorice, square shouldered and direct. Medium-bodied, the first impression is fruity and then comes a dusting of tannin and a woody, chalky mouth feel. This stunts the cherry, blackberry fruit. Concise array of tar, leather, mixed citrus, prettied up by rose petal accents. At the end notes of caramel, vanilla help soften, sweeten things. Chewy but not impenetrable, certainly has the follow-through for pairing for hearty dishes. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2015
Kuenhof
Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy
Eisacktaler
Sylvaner
2006
$24.99
13.5%
Somewhat dull, like a worn out gold ring, just starting to take on some amber tint, its overall flatness actually helps to fill out the rims. The nose comes up with toffee, honey, brown sugar dappled pie crust and spiced orange peels, rose petals and at times a bit of milkiness, the apricot, peach, pear, pineapple fruit alternates between fresh and reduced, overall very bottom heavy. Full-bodied, same general sluggishness here yet the acidity still working overtime to force things to move forward. This elevates the orange, white grapefruit citrus and adds more pineapple, nectarine to the thicker apricot, peach. Needed also as the coconut, butterscotch, pie dough stuff taking it up a notch too. Medicinal, witch hazel aspect as well. In many ways it drinks like a “dry dessert wine. 87 points
Pousse d’Or, Domaine de la
Burgundy, France
Volnay
Clos de la Bousse d’Or Monopole
Pinot Noir
2002
$79.99
13.0%
Garnet to purple hued core, burnt red at the outer rims, looks about middle aged. Sweet cola and cinnamon in the nose, smoky cherry to raspberry scents, menthol, possesses a powerful perfumed lift. Medium-bodied, suave but not quite polished, more so massaged for your optimal enjoyment. With cocoa, honey, vanilla notes the oak is yet deftly managed, adding sweetness and textural smoothness. Has redder cherry, raspberry fruit in equal proportion to any blueberry or plum. More of that cinnamon pokes out at the end. The acidity and tannin at once appear present but do not necessarily exert structure, maybe the acidity is more pronounced. Open and ready to go. 90 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Preuses
Chardonnay
2009
$64.99
13.0%
Deepening golden hue, consistent through the rims, good shine with just a glint of green. Yeast, dough, lime zest and rose petals bubble up through the nose, a touch minty, fresh and juicy peach, apricot fruit scents, nice for its unforced length in the nostrils. Medium-bodied, spicy and dusty texture, the dough and pie crust elements are a bit forward. Rose petals too, the pear, apple, peach, apricot fruit has a full center brightened by lemony notes. The acidity is good but not great. You could say it is advancing but also seems like it was not especially bracing from the start. Pleasurable, spreads broadly and aims to win your affection. 89 points
Pernot et ses Fils, Paul
Burgundy, France
Blagny
La Pièce sous le Bois
Pinot Noir
2002
$22.99
13.5%
Transparent brick red color with a hint of orange at the rims, clearly a matured wine. Concentrated nose of plum and cherry fruit, tea leaf and cedar accents, the funk is palpable old fallen wood but has no offputting herbaceousness plus it dissipates with air, pulped lemons, fleshy and full to the very end. Full-bodied, sappy and yet with a textural dustiness at the end. Cedar, ginger, tea leaf, the orange to lemon citrus lively. The fruit seems to be starting to reduce into a more dried fruit profile but the acidity allows for strawberry, raspberry flavors alongside that heavier plum, cherry. Not very sweetly oaky but there is a touch of caramel after it opens. There are moments of leather, tar. An honest wine which punches above its weight. 91 points
Dorigo, Girolamo
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
Colli Orientali del Friuli Refosco dal Peduncolo
Vigneto Montsclapade
Refosco
1999
$39.99
14.0%
Fully opaque black-purple core, the rims remain a youthfully dark ruby to red magenta color, lively saturation. heavy floral dew to the nose, hint of dark chocolate and cinnamon stick, the plum, black currant scents starting to verge on prune, long and dense overall, ends with a glance of tar and rawhide. Medium-bodied, has lost some fat, this brings the tannin and acidity to the fore, quite a well-structured wine. Stays rugged via tar, asphalt, quinine, stone and a touch of campfire wood. Chiseled plum, black cherry, boysenberry fruit, sour and sometimes puckering. Baking spices and orange pekoe tea aft through the finish. Drinking with youthful vigor while also having shed the excesses of youth. Powerful. 92 points
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
2001
$50.00
14.3%
While the core is clear it’s as black as it is purple, rust red to orange tinged rims, looks about middle-aged. The nose leans on beef jerky, leather, violets and minerally earth, supple blueberry, black cherry, boysenberry scents, good amount of molasses and sweet grill smoke, overall it is svelte but packs a big punch, has a steadiness to its pungency and really dense. Medium-bodied, crisp acidity adds tartness to the raspberry, blackberry to mixed cherry fruit as well as for the white grapefruit citrus. Returns to that base of leather, horsehide and grill smoke, slight creaminess from the oak and cedar, incense accents. The flavors are all deep and extend well without becoming ostentatious nor plodding. Sweet, slightly syrupy, texture through the finish with an uptick in violet led florality. A pretty wine, smooth, integrated, not really showing full development yet. 90 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Monte Bello
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$120.99
13.4%
Pure violet core, clean and semi-opaque, rust red rims, certainly has a brooding cast to its appearance. Coconut, butterscotch and chocolate quickly assert themselves and let you know it is an oak driven nose, sweet cedar too, sugary aspect to the cassis, boysenberry, black cherry fruit scents, mint and bay leaf too with a last second touch of bell pepper, comes off as unevolved. Medium-bodied, a bit disjointed, very acidic with sharper cedar, incense tones here. More citrusy as well, smoky in an acrid way, comes off as hot even with its lower alcohol. The ripe cherry, strawberry, blueberry fruit is round and juicy though. tea leaf, orange peel, dill and then back to the chocolate, caramel, coconut. The tannin seems to clump up some. Trails off at the end which leaves the oak holding the bag by default. It really does all it can to get to a positive place and needs to be acknowledged for that. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Schrock, Weingut Heidi
Burgenland, Austria
Rust
Vogelsang
Blend
2001
$19.99
12.5%
While close to fully orange in color, light in hue so it likely does not look as aged as it is, on the flat side but not necessarily lifeless. The nose is all raw pie dough, spiced orange peel, honey as well as dried apples, apricots, vague floral dimension, not much going on and clearly has begun to oxidize or just generally unravel. In the mouth it is medium-bodied, helped by the acidity to keep pushing forward past the mid-palate. Life courses through the tangerine, lemon, lime citrus. Likewise, the peach, apricot, apple fruit at least capable of a nice initial splash before drifting off thereafter. In the end you are basically left with that dough, yeast stuff and a dry, tacky mouth texture. Chances are high it was a good wine in its youth. Unspecified percentages of Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc. (Synthetic Cork) 86 points
Zind Humbrecht, Domaine
Alsace, France
Clos Haüserer
Vendange Tardive
Riesling
1989
$72.00
13.0%
Some basic gold left in the otherwise lighter amber hue, high level of reflectivity masks some of its age, lasts strongly into the rims. Broad rubber scents dominate the nose, behind that milk and heavy cream, orange marmalade, pineapple, nectarine, apricot fruit, thick and sticky nostril presence, seems as if it was more floral in its youth. Full-bodied, more powerful acidity than expected, helps to play up a savory, more minerally side, almost meadowy or grassy. The apricot, peach, pear, pineapple fruit has lost depth but gets close to the finish line, not too reduced. More full-blown grapefruit, orange, lemon citrus, this lasts fully to the end. Loses a lot of that milkiness and the rubber is better knit into the whole. Definitely at the back end of its optimal drinking window. 88 points
Mann, Domaine Albert
Alsace, France
Schlossberg
Riesling
2002
$29.99
13.0%
Darkened gold color but quite short of amber, loses intensity at the rims, average luster. Honey and molasses appear first in the nose, sweetly ripened apricot, peach, yellow apple fruit but not tropical, fresh and primary, gentle stoniness, demure on the whole. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with pleasing firmness, the acidity shaves off the fat and creates a light drying sensation. Pink grapefruit, lime, tangerine notes, the citrus tangy and sour. Stone and some pebble dust, neutral in terms of rubber. At times light lactose appears. The peach, pear fruit gets a jolt from pineapple and papaya accents. Good balance, no showiness, just steady and with an energetic pulse. Does not open a meaningful window into future development but ready and drinking great now. 90 points
De Vescovi Ulzbach
Trentino, Italy
Teroldego Rotaliano
Teroldego
2006
$9.99
13.0%
Dark purple core, opaque with saturated red rims, has retained youthful vibrancy. Chocolate and very ripe plum, black cherry scents spar with tar, cement, muddy earth, it is funky for sure but not really rustic, if anything it seems slightly on the modern side. Full-bodied, acidic more than tannic but its sheer density plays up the latter. Leather more like horsehide, tar, here you get a strong white grapefruit component which was missing in the nose. Less chocolate but something like flowers or licorice. It’s not there yet but there could be a pruney future ahead, today it’s plum, blackberry, cherry fruit. Savory and close to peppery finish, for its type ends on a clean note. Satisfying and can easily enough be quaffed on its own. 89 points
Sang des Cailloux, Domaine le
Rhône, France
Vacqueyras
Cuvée de Lopy
Blend
2000
$24.99
13.8%
The core is much more black than purple, easily achieves opacity, the rims a foreboding dried blood red before a more burnt orange furthest out. The nose is mainly wet leather, campfire smoke, beef jerky and barnyard matter, sufficient plum/prune, dark berry fruit to echo what was likely a juicy youth, some cedar and oak spice left but just a glimmer. Medium-bodied, has lost weight but air time helps flesh it out. The acidity remains there, not much tannin if there ever was. Chocolate, mint, herbs, leather and game flavorings. Clear roasted character to the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit. Through the mid-palate develops a medicinal perfume. Dries out through the finish. Nice wine, past its prime but clinging on nonetheless. 75% Grenache, 25% Syrah. 86 points
Etude
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
2010
$85.00
14.5%
Very dark purple core, close to black, saturated and soft glow, heavy crimson rims, intensely colored. Dense yet serene nose of plum, cassis, black cherry fruit, floral dew, cedar and incense, hardly any sweeter oak element save a dusting of cocoa, regally primary. Full-bodied, heavy on the palate, the tannins are more drying than perhaps would be expected. Still, the fruitiness of the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit is its centerpiece. Lighter florality here, hint of orange blossom, sweeter cedar and oak spice. Herbal twist at the end, especially with air time, probably aided by the semi-astringency of the tannin. Molasses, chocolate and butterscotch move forward as it opens. Thankfully not overly restrained, capable of being fun. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2015
Clerico, Domenico
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Pajana
Nebbiolo
1997
$74.99
14.0%
Bright crimson red hue, consistently full until the outer more orange rims, youthfully saturated still. The nose hits you with peanut shells, vanilla crisp and caramel, then cedar and incense, lots of makeup surrounding the plum to cherry fruit scents, lower grade nuances of leather, good fullness overall. Full-bodied, oaky with cedar, sour wood and then vanilla/caramel. The cherry, raspberry fruit not faded yet does not seem to have a firm grip. Kind of starts going all over the place with leather, tree bark, tar and rose petals, no overarching principle in play. Acidity is nice enough. Homogenous and does not convince that complexity on the way. 87 points
Monpertuis, Domaine
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Tradition Vieilles Vignes
Blend
1998
14.5%
Minimal purple left in the core, mostly blood red and crimson with bright yellow to orange rims, clear and luminous throughout. Some wet funk in the nose, grassy clumped earth, tar and tea leaf before the advent of rhubarb, raspberry, cherry fruit scents, stiffens with notes of grapefruit pulp, if anything seems blunted so when it ends, it ends. Full-bodied without fatness, a skillful blend of milk chocolate, pine, mint, orange peel, shows some heat and finishes on the short side. Sweetness to this day expressed in the raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit. Tarry earth wins out towards the end, takes on a more rugged profile, perhaps intended to be “backward” in feel. Approximately 85% Grenache, remainder Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault. 89 points
Pégau, Domaine du
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Réservée
Blend
2000
$36.99
13.5%
Bright crimson core, a little violet in there, more yellow than orange at the rims, looks like it is getting on in age but the coloration is vigorous. The nose is stuffed with chocolate, raisin, prune, plum and blackberry fruit, clearly ripe with orange rinds and grounded in merde, muddy earth and matted straw, really not as over the top as you might expect. Medium-bodied, has clearly lost weight and density over the years. Herbal twist of tree bark and thyme and light metallic touch but nothing like tomato skin or the like. Orange marmalade and milk chocolate pretties it up. The raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit steady without any spectacular splash. Right where it should be. Mainly Grenache, remainder Syrah, etc. 90 points
Potel, Nicolas
Burgundy, France
Volnay
Clos des Chênes
Pinot Noir
2000
$49.99
13.0%
Brick red core of good clarity, fading to a mix of red/orange around the rims, more maturing than aged. The nose is much more youthful, full of cherry, raspberry fruit, freshly cut flowers, the earth and leather stay demurely in the background, pure and without any unwanted herbal elements, one could argue it begins to close up over time. Medium-bodied, tannic and quite structured, still not in any way lacking for cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit. Adds in lemon, tea leaf, cedar, sandalwood incense and potpourri, fuller range of flavors starting to deepen. Hardens some through the finish but not sure it is in a shut down phase, may just be hard by nature. 89 points
Huet, S.A.
Loire, France
Vouvray
Clos du Bourg
Demi-Sec
Chenin Blanc
2002
$34.99
12.0%
The golden core has deepened into a youthful amber color, clear and unblemished into the rims, not especially shiny but not dull either. Fleshy nose, dried apples and pears, pie dough, dollop of honey before pressed flowers, on the whole quite fresh considering the inevitable specter of premature oxidation, keeps pushing forward with vigor. Medium-bodied, the acidity is quite nice, gives it kick. Cinnamon and clove play alongside tangerine, orange citrus. The apple, nectarine, pear, apricot fruit is never too sweet and sticks around to the end. Adopts a more savory denouement, takes its time and then revs up the energy level. Overall, not seeing meaningful “premox” here, maybe just normal maturation and oxidation, allowing for the fact this is supposed to be a wine which can age 30+ years. 89 points
Schubert (Grünhaus), Gutverwaltung C. Von
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Maximin Grünhaüser
Abtsberg
Spätlese Trocken AP #30
Riesling
1989
10.5%
Pale golden color, fine shine, what’s there for color lasts to the rims, nothing here visually showing advanced aging. Piercing nose of pineapple, papaya, mineral shards, slate, more depth to the earthiness than the fruit, its smokiness gives it serious, pungent lift, not much staying power, the sort of nose which attracts as much as repels. Medium-bodied, broad and powerful acidity, leaves little doubt it is “trocken.” Tart lemon to grapefruit and tangerine citrus, stone, chalk, minerals, licorice here you get a subtle underlying milkiness along with a coconut nuance. Somewhat short flavor-wise, you feel it longer than you taste it. Most of the time it is hard to register the apricot, peach, pineapple fruit as it has so little juiciness to it. 88 points
Kesselstatt, Weingut Reichsgraf Von
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen
Spätlese AP #78
Riesling
1983
Fully bronzed color, deepens into the glass and fills the rims completely, clearly an aged wine. The nose gives its age away, all milk, vanilla custard, coconut and honey, then apricot and peach paste, on the heavy side and lacks staying power, not much separation of scents. Full-bodied, dry and dusty on the tongue, the acidity seems on the weaker side. Soapy element, licorice, mint, coconut custard, poached apricots with peach, nectarine, papaya accompaniment. Just lacks life if possessed of decent flavor. Just a wine past its prime, in no way a flawed wine. 85 points
Schwengler, Weingut Wilhelm
Wachau, Austria
Dürnsteiner
Von Den Alten Steinterrassen Smaragd
Riesling
1999
$37.99
13.0%
Deep golden, bronzed color, still clear and shiny, the rims are clean and emptied of hue. Crisp nose of minerals, stone with good smokiness, has a heavily honeyed aspect, close to molasses, candied oranges, mild doughiness, overall showing some age but plenty of vigor present. Medium-bodied, lots of extract, quite dry, big tacky mouth feel. Pineapple, quince, nectarine, peach fruit alongside biting white grapefruit and more sour orange citrus. A bit on the twiggy, leafy side, accompanied by stone and almost sand. The dough comes out retronasally. On the whole it is perhaps too bitter, almost nutty, but its general energy level remains high throughout. 88 points
Merkelbach, Weingut Alfred
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Erdener
Treppchen
Auslese AP #10
Riesling
2001
$15.99
8.5%
At some angles you get a green tint to the base of gold with a youthful shine, the rims are a bit empty, nothing here visually suggests a wine of its age. The nose is compact and picks its message and delivers it repeatedly, bike tire rubber, lime sherbet, beeswax, slate and apricot, peach, nectarine fruit, even by sniffing you sense it came close to tropical level ripeness. Full-bodied, soft without much acidity, that said, it does tighten up and slim down at the finish. Before that, though, it is an avalanche of coconut custard, vanilla fudge, and sugary sweet lime, pink grapefruit and tangerine citrus. The rubber is there but a junior partner. The more tropical pineapple, guava, star fruit flavors accompany the apricot, pear, cherry base. This is not a wine for those who demand transparent terroir, more like a wine you bring to those who want something sweet that you can drink too. 88 points
Rossignol-Trapet, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Chapelle-Chambertin
Pinot Noir
1990
$84.99
13.0%
Filmy purple core nudges into opacity, the rims more of a burnt red with just an intimation of orange appearing. Pungent, musky nose of potpourri, spiced oranges, tea leaves, cloves and ripe cherry, plum fruit scents, smoky ending, thick enough that the scents tend to blend into each other rather than lift into clarity. Full-bodied, equally heavy and sticky in the mouth as the tannin has mostly resolved and more clumping than drying. The acidity is average, yields to the sheer exuberant ripeness of that plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit, this element still in its glory. Cedar, incense, anise, pressed flowers and orange peel in effect here, the more overt oaky vanilla and whipped cream accents come and go. That tingly spiciness helps to extend the finish. Mild stone or dried horsehide aspects but funk is minimal and doesn’t scream terroir. Aims to please and has retained ability to do so up to now. 92 points
Hiedler, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Maximum
Riesling
2001
$59.99
13.0%
Full orange coloration to it now, however, no loss of shine and pools solidly into the glass, looks aged but nor less vigorous for it. The nose betrays a few lactose, milky notes yet remains fresh via orange marmalade, lemon peel, pine and anise notes, the fruit scents are tropical if without piquant bite, pineapple, papaya, nectarine, white peach, a bit too flattened out for the smoky minerality to gain lift off, manages to achieve fullness without sluggishness. In the mouth it is full-bodied, the acidity seems dulled which makes it depend on weight and momentum for forward movement. Has that same menthol, pine, floral, sweet garden herb aspect which wants to lift but the peach, apricot, nectarine, pineapple fruit has taken on a clear dried fruit concentration. Sour bite to the orange, white grapefruit citrus helps. Has retained most of its youthful steamroller demeanor, a wine which makes you admire its rambunctiousness. 91 points
Grosjean Frères
Valle d’Aosta, Italy
Vigne Rovettaz
Petite Arvine
2009
$9.99
13.5%
Darker gold coloration, layers well into the glass, modest strength into the rims, not sure if the color is darkening/advancing but it does sit solidly in the glass. The nose has blunt force without undue violence, more like it quietly asserts its strength, mint, orange peel, sweet tea leaves, pear, peach, golden apple fruit scents, touch of cinnamon or coriander, at first you want to call it primary but really this is about all you are going to get. Medium-bodied, the acidity has more pep than kick, rah-rah without doing anything about it. Mint, licorice, tangerine citrus, honey, it is too fleshy to emphasize any stone or mineral element. There is a weird rubber edge to it, makes you imagine it seeped into the wine from contact with the synthetic cork. Clove and ginger lend sparkle to the pear, apricot, apple, cherry fruit, the latter gains depth as the wine warms. The is nice enough but prior experiences with this bottling suggests a wine to be drunk on release. (Synthetic Cork: Korked Pro) 87 points
Campbells
Victoria, Australia
Rutherglen
Muscat
NV
$17.99
17.5%
Washed out amber red to dried rose petal red in hue, looks more brown from a distance, the rims a dilute yellow. Mentholated nose with a good deal of toffee, crème brûlée, vanilla custard, mint leaf, very alcoholic, demure date, prune, golden raisin fruit notes, actively scrubs the nostrils. Medium-bodied while still quite sticky and clingy on the palate. Vanilla, butterscotch, toffee, at times smoky. Good freshness in the blood orange accents. Not fruity, base of date, golden raisin, prune. While this reduces the overall sweetness, chocolate notes linger at the end and evoke a touch of maraschino cherry. The menthol holds off until the very last second and keeps the perfume swirling inside the mouth. Made from Brown Muscat (Brown Frontignac). 375 ml bottle. (While NV, this bottle purchased as current release in April 2001 and cellared thereafter) 87 points
Puffeney, Jacques
Jura, France
Arbois
Melon-Queue-Rouge
2005
$20.00
13.5%
Reddish tint to a fairly dense amber orange base, flat and block-like as if frozen in the glass, strong rims. Yeast, flour, orange marmalade, honey, lanolin, violets, blanched nuts, green apple and peach pit, lean but just short of mean, swirls aggressively retronasally. Medium-bodied, you sense there was good acidity underneath so that it’s remaining fresh. Good mix of lemon, orange, white grapefruit citrus, raw pie dough, nuts, camphor. The lack of fruit, be it apple, pear or apricot, contributes to the trailing off of general flavor intensity through the finish. As it warms gets smoky, rubbery with a warmed earth feel. Notes of cucumber and dill add further complexity. At once you feel it is may passing its prime while you also harbor the suspicion that it was supposed to blossom into what’s in the glass. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2015
Petrolo
Tuscany, Italy
Galatrona
Merlot
1998
$69.99
13.5%
Flat purple hue of basic opacity, burnt red rims, full from core outward, no drop off in hue intensity. In the nose the fruit comes off as semi-roasted cherry and red currant, cocoa and cedar play off against tar, matted grasses and pine, in the end has a breezy lift. Medium-bodied, remains still a touch on the tannic side. Floral and cedary, more or that tar with an odd note of celery. Mixed pulped citrus. No head fakes from the cherry, blackberry, currant fruit, straight up. Smooth and fluid in mouth feel, lots of retronasal activity, tangy before finally turning a bit dusty through the finish. No highs nor lows, strikes you as just passing its prime drinking window. 89 points
Bellivière, Domaine de
Loire, France
Coteaux du Loir
Le Rouge-Gorge
Pineau d’Aunis
2000
$25.00
13.0%
Filmy ruby to brick red in color, fades slightly at the rims and takes on a demure orange tint. The nose is comprised of semi-muted raspberry and cherry fruit, bolder white pepper and fresh forest floor matter to tree barks, gains some energy from a touch of lemon rinds, overall it’s giving but linear, subtly longlasting. Medium-bodied, the acidity is just above average but not crazy strong. Good blast of white pepper, green pepper, stone to mineral dust. The white grapefruit to lemon citrus seems pulped. Past mid-palate develops tree bark, twig and tea leaf notes. The cherry, cranberry, raspberry fruit decent but not a focal point. Tart finish. While a good wine seems like maybe this was not the perfect vintage for this grape. 89 points
Ganevat, Domaine Jean-François
Jura, France
Côtes du Jura
Sous la Roche Les Vignes de Mon Pere
Savagnin
1999
$89.99
13.0%
Deepening golden hue, flat surface, the color lasts fully into the rims making it quite block-like in appearance. The nose is a mixture of orange marmalade, pie crust, honey, walnuts and green apple and pear skin, sinewy with above average persistence. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and its presence is increased by a reverberating acidic bite. While not necessarily an oxidative wine there is lots of doughy and crusty accents, more raw than baked. The citrus more lemony here, good elevation in amount of minerals and stones. At times perhaps too aggressive, lurches suddenly. Licorice plays off the more herbal or bark nuances. Consistent presentation start to finish, has credible freshness and a clean ending. 90 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Clos
Chardonnay
2003
$73.99
13.0%
Bright gold with only a slight nod towards green, sleek and reflective surface. Sauna stone nose, some bubblegum notes, floral, very minor apple to pear fruit scents, mineral water, just not much going on. Light-bodied, good acidity given the vintage but basically has zero flavor, and this not in the “good” way. Stone, slate, pressed flowers, old orange rinds, bitter nuts, any pear, apple, peach fruit is on life support. Becomes very drying through the mid-palate and most of the above gone by the finish. Tacky residue left behind on the tongue, does press outwards to create presence but fills that space with not so much. 85 points
Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Saarburger
Rausch
Spätlese AP #10
Riesling
1999
$23.99
8.0%
Mostly basic yellow straw, only a slight green tint, very bright and shiny, looks hardly past just being bottled. Fresh nose of apricot, pear, peach and zippy tangerine citrus, very quiet lactose and rubber presence, more floral water, overall subdued in a not-going-to-say-much way. Light to medium-bodied, taut feel even with so-so acidity, dry attack which opens into dried herbs, stone, mandarin orange and pink grapefruit, never gets close to real sweetness. The nectarine, peach, apricot, cherry fruit is straight ahead here as well, succinct without seeming short. The rubber element is minor but consistent. Satisfying, again of few words, firm finish. Likely never had the opulence rather than lost it. 88 points
Reverie
Napa Valley, California
El Sueño
Blend
1998
$9.99
13.5%
Transparent with good shine, the core is brick red with a vestige of ruby, the rims more burnt orange, clearly an aged wine. The nose is twiggy, stemmy with leather, horsehide accents, the core of candied strawberry, raspberry fruit barely holding on, seems to have a faded florality as well, gets less funky with air time. Medium-bodied, hard and tannic with puckering acidity too. Here merde and barnyard funk rule, this in tandem with stems, twigs and dried leafy matter. The raspberry, watermelon, red cherry fruit on the way out, same for the remnants of tangerine citrus. Given its unique blend was probably interesting in its youth. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon. 85 points
Léoville Poyferré, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1999
$29.25
13.0%
The core remains purple, the rims shifting out of brighter scarlet into duller brick red, however, overall appears vigorous and youthful. At first the nose shows a good deal of toasted coconut and caramel then settles down into minerally earth, wet cedar, forest scrub and beef blood, the plum, black cherry fruit scents seem to have become taut over the year and lost excess flesh. Medium-bodied, sweet attack aided by the caramel, butter and cocoa powder oak influences, the cherry, blackberry, currant fruit is uncomplicated and juicy at the start. After that the clumpy tannin gums up the works and hollows out the back half. Cedar, sandalwood, leather and something close to pine, less earthy here. On the whole it is more savory than sweet. Does not give you any reason to expect tertiary development will be meaningful going forward, probably best to take advantage of the remaining fruit now before all you get is tannin. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Petite Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Brezza & Figli, Azienda Agricola Giacomo
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Nebbiolo
2009
$47.99
14.5%
Bright crimson red core with orange rims, transparent and noticeably shiny. Light candied quality to the cherry, raspberry fruit scents, floral in a flat manner, some leather and loam, tends to dissolve bluntly. Medium-bodied, very tannic which stunts the expression of said cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit. More lemon and grapefruit citrus here in the mouth. Matted grasses and wildflowers, sour bite brightens before turning too bitter through the finish. After awhile the fruit seems roasted a touch. Average and on the hard side. May be the case a few more years may soften it into something more agreeable. 87 points
Bea, Azienda Agricola Paolo
Umbria, Italy
Montefalco Sagrantino Secco
Sagrantino
2000
$83.99
14.6%
Opaque core, filmy dark purple, the rims more of a brick red with a dilute orange tint, advancing but not old looking. Ripe, jammy nose of plum, prune, raisin and black cherry fruit, likewise gives you oodles of tar, leather, cement, pine sap and then orange pulp, floral musk and milk chocolate, while perfumed it is in a heavy and layered fashion. Full-bodied, tannic in a peppery and lively manner. Animal fur, tar, cement, lavender. The chocolate, cinnamon notes bring out more sweetness in the plum, prune, raisin, blueberry, cherry fruit. There is for sure some volatility to it but this comes off as in keeping with what it is. A kaleidoscope of flavors which flit about without a guiding star, honestly rugged. 92 points
Prager, Weingut
Wachau, Austria
Dürnsteiner
Hollerin
Smaragd
Riesling
1998
$50.00
13.0%
Full matured amber orange color, looks like a slice of dried apricot paste, very gauzy with no shine to it at all, holds the hue adequately through the rims. The nose is a bit flat-footed but delivers actual apricot scents along with peach, pineapple, mango, likely had more tropical bite in its youth, pink grapefruit, at this juncture showing more milkiness than minerality or stoniness, fat and approachable. Medium-bodied, the very low level of acidity perhaps helps add body while preventing active mouth presence. The pink grapefruit, tangerine, lime citrus steps it up some. Good flavor in the pineapple, nectarine, papaya, apricot fruit. Touch of diesel or tire rubber, has a more high toned finish, especially as the wine warms. No doubt it is a little past peak but accords itself well enough. They did their best here with what the vintage gave them. 88 points
Roy, Domaine Marc
Burgundy, France
Marsannay
Les Champs Perdrix
Chardonnay
2005
$39.99
13.0%
Advanced color, getting close to amber, this darkening helps the distortion of the visual field, pales some around the rims. The nose too betrays its age, however, honey, bread and croissants, milk and then lemon to lime sherbet, semi-tropical edge to the fruit, pineapple and guava in there with the peach and apricot scents, finishes with a lingering smokiness. Medium-bodied, here the acidity is strong and changes the whole profile. The lime, lemon, tangerine charges to the fore and the fruit takes on a crisper green apple, pear, apricot profile with lesser pineapple. Still doughy and bready but not in a tired, maderized manner. Almost piney at moments. Quite puckering through the finish. Has likely evolved as much as it can (or one may want), life left here for sure. 88 points
Kuenhof
Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy
Eisacktaler
Kaiton
Riesling
2005
$59.99
12.5%
Dullish gold color beginning to segue to orange hues, distorts your vision although it is not filmy per se, not a lot of surface shine. The nose does not offer high toned diesel notes but goes heavy on the rubber, very dominant, after that comes vanilla with a sprinkle of cinnamon, orange peel, the fruit is not the focal point yet it does not lack for apple, peach, pear scents, it’s not airy but the supporting beams are placed far apart. Medium-bodied, blunt acidity knocks you back and then it pushes forward while you are off balance. The rubber formidable here too, but it is the orange, grapefruit citrus which slashes left and right. Slight elevation in the minerality. The green apple, pear, apricot fruit comes off as just a tad underripe. Hard not to admire its punching power, goes full throttle from first glass to last. 90 points
Fontanès, Château
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Coteaux du Languedoc
Blend
2008
$10.99
13.5%
While clear, slightly on the dull side, reddish purple, mild bricking at the rims. Leather, cowhide add outdoorsiness to the nose, no merde just stuff like campfire smoke, also dried grapefruit pulp, the raspberry, red cherry fruit scents up to the task and that’s it, short dose of garrigues. Medium-bodied, dry and semi-tacky, flat mouthfeel, oddly lacking in life (no visible sign of damage due to storage). The smoky, leathery element remains dominant. There’s no doubting the grapes were well-ripened, but the cherry, plum, black currant just sort of loses its grip at the finish. Here the citrus recedes into the background. Does not display any oak influence. It’s alright, thinking that maybe even at this juncture it is getting long in the tooth. Mostly Grenache, remainder Syrah, Carignane, etc. 86 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2015
Renardière, Domaine de la
Jura, France
Arbois
Pupillin Jurassique
Chardonnay
2007
$25.00
13.0%
Either it’s a matured gold or a youthful amber color, layered and dark, distorts vision with ease. The nose is certainly floral, stiffens via green apple, pear fruit notes, manages to make the honeyed, milky nuances less sweet, noticeably unadorned and fresher for it. Medium-bodied, has a round, expansive mouthfeel yet in no way lacks acidity, this keeps scrubbing to the finish. More lemony here, odd lack of doughy or bready aspect, more a pure shot of butterscotch than baked goods. Does have a cinnamon, nutmeg influence though. Peach, apple, apricot fruit displays more verve than ripeness, flavor lasts as long as it should to create a clean finish with a nice mint, licorice lift. More thrust than deep resonance. 89 points
Dirler-Cadé
Alsace, France
Spiegel
Muscat
2002
$39.99
12.5%
Glassy yellow color, nothing about the hue betrays its age, rims are somewhat dull and empty, solid looking. The nose leans heavily on the citrus, lemon, white grapefruit, some sour orange, the fruit likewise is snappy pear, green apple to apricot pit, the floral aspect seems to be muting while you get more cloves and mineral smoke, more power here than depth. Full-bodied, curious textural interplay whereas it has a broad, round mouthfeel as well as zesty acidity so you can’t relax nor do you feel fully refreshed. Mild dough character, plays well with lowkey cinnamon, clove spice. The mixed white citrus knits back in. Nice zip to the peach, apricot, pear, persimmon fruit. Minerally after image. There is no single thing it does superlatively but it is woven together impressively and feels complete as a wine. 90 points
Cape d’Estaing
South Australia, Australia
Kangaroo Island
Admiral’s Reserve
Shiraz
2001
$30.00
14.0%
The core is more black than purple, not much glow, the rims blood red and beginning to show some age. No lack of coffee and caramel in the nose but not oak dominated, at first presents a floral musk which makes way for burnt bacon notes, the plum and blackberry scents are somewhat reticent but in no way fading. Medium-bodied, dry entry into the mouth, likely had a big tannic punch in its youth. Less floral here yet the meaty, gamey element remains in play. The vanilla, caramel, chocolate a low grade presence. Minimal sugar in the plum, blackberry, blueberry fruit, fully ripened. Enjoyable but monochrome, some might call it steady going. 89 points
Dujac, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Gevrey-Chambertin
Aux Combottes
Pinot Noir
1973
Gauzy, has faded to a worn rose petal red, not bright enough for orange rims, more like yellow with a hint of brown, any sediment is very fine silt. While there is a pretty core of raspberry, red cherry fruit to the nose, overall volatility undoes it swiftly, leaving a wake of tar, wet tree leaves, mud, merde and pulped grapefruits, giving it extra time does not help this blow off. Medium-bodied, the acidity is rambunctious and has things lurch haphazardly as there’s no body left to steady the ship. Again, the cherry, strawberry fruit is not dead and does whatever it can to shine. Merde, tar, cement, horsehide, tree bark, sour oranges, has a pervasive sourness throughout. In the end it doesn’t seem like it’s heat damaged or poorly stored, just had its moment and these are the bones which are left. 82 points
Beringer
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Bancroft Ranch
Merlot
1996
$32.00
14.1%
The filmy purple core achieves opacity, moderately dull, the rims retain slight crimson hues but mostly washed out brick red now with a tinge of orange. The nose does have a muddy earth, outdoorsy aspect along with matchstick notes and a cedar and incense side, the plum, prune, boysenberry fruit scents are syrupy and have a sticky texture inside the nostrils, by now there’s just some cocoa and hard caramel, in no way oaky. Full-bodied and sappy, not much tannin left but its density holds it upright. Here the plum, cherry, cassis fruit deeper and sweeter, keeping flirting with a dried fruit character. Cedar, spiced oranges, licorice, mocha and clove, it actually has a lot more tang to it than you might expect. Needs a decant and gains nuance with air. Loses some weight through the finish but the flavors remain crisp. This shows why this bottling earned its rep as a blue chip Californian Merlot, classy and in no way simple. 90 points
Weinbach, Domaine
Alsace, France
Tokay Pinot Gris Cuvée Sainte Catherine
Pinot Gris
1983
$30.00
Advanced color, lightly bronzed orange as much as gold at this point, however, in no way dull and possesses quality surface shine. The nose betrays a certain milkiness in addition to poached apricot and peach scents but it is the aggressive smokiness which holds your attention as well as keeps the honey, beeswax and orange marmalade accents at arm’s length, not a great deal of lift to it, leans back into the nostrils. Full-bodied, if there ever was substantial acidity it has lost its grip by now, yet its density and forward momentum is able to create a sense of movement. Pear, apricot, peach fruit, jasmine and orange zest, honey. Then it gets upset some by rubber, tar, these interesting at first then distracting. Clumsy finish. For its age any complaints is just being whiney, the fact that it is alive and pleasurable enough to drink is just fine. 87 points
Polz, Erich and Walter
Steiermark, Austria
Grassnitzberg
Gelber Muskateller
2001
$25.00
12.5%
The deep, aged golden color stops short of bronzed, neither dull nor shiny, hue lasts into the rims, does not look like it’s on the way out. Tropical nose of pineapple, papaya, nectarine, star fruit, grapefruit citrus, expends its energy quickly enough, leaving you with lightly maderized dough notes and spices, at the very last moment there’s a snap of herbaceousness and dusty stones. Medium-bodied, packs itself firmly still, the acidity gives its all to hold it together and aiming at the finish line. Rose petals, baking spices and dough pale before the tart lemon to grapefruit citrus. The bite but not the juice is in the pineapple, peach, papaya, guava fruit. The important flavors persist into the finish. Not giving up a load of terroir aspects but, hey, for the grape at this age this is doing quite well, indeed. 88 points
Colin et Fils, Marc
Burgundy, France
Puligny-Montrachet
Le Trézin
Chardonnay
2002
$32.00
13.0%
Excellent shine to it, sparkly, the gold hue almost equaled by green, holds on credibly through the rims. The nose is smoky at first, stiffens the feel, then turns floral with some bubblegum notes, baking dough, no real sign of oxidation, the apricot, peach fruit scents are demure but not slight, then the smokiness returns for final punctuation. Light to medium-bodied, the acidity has held on pretty nicely, any oak fully absorbed. Flowers, cinnamon, yeast, lime, pebbles and stones smooth out any excess sweetness. More roundness and length found here in the peach, apricot, green apple, pear fruit. Creates mouth perfume while still clinging well to the palate. In a good place, its structure will not take it much further. 89 points
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