Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in December 2014
Kuenhof
Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy
Eisacktaler
Sylvaner
2005
$39.99
14.0%
Solid golden color, pools deeply into the glass, above average shine and surface reflectivity, no visual signs of aging. There’s a dollop of heavy cream to the nose which anchors it, otherwise it’s orange, tangerine zest, anise, dried rose petals and a smoky stoniness, any apricot or peach fruit scents strike you as an afterthought. Medium-bodied yet very firm with chiseled contours. The acidity has some attitude and likes to squeeze the tongue. The smokiness is palpable and the orange and grapefruit citrus takes on a very sour profile here. The floral side loses some prettiness, however the peach, apricot, nectarine fruit finds its footing, all white pit fruit, no juicy tropicality. At times the alcohol does destabilize things. Borderline macho wine. 89 points
Hours, Charles
Southwest France, France
Jurançon Sec
Cuvée Marie
Gros Manseng
2001
$10.00
12.5%
While shiny, the core has a worn gold hue, looks a tough caged, turns colorless at the rims. The nose is a fun mix of milk, whipped cream, butterscotch, dried pineapples and apples, honey dappled dough, in no clear way oxidized but aging here too. In the mouth it is medium-bodied and the acidity saves the day, freshens the dough, honey, orange peel. Here the vague sherried qualities give it a boozy demeanor. Sharp edged pineapple, nectarine, green apple flavors keep it lively on the back half. Had held together well and developed the sort of complexities which make for a fair fruitiness tradeoff. If you are sitting on a few cases, get cracking. 90% Gros Manseng, 10% Corbu. 89 points
Allemand, Thierry
Rhône, France
Cornas
Reynard
Syrah
2004
$74.99
13.5%
Crimson-purple hue fills the glass all the way to the rims, semi-saturated and youthfully lively appearance. High-toned nose of bell pepper, saline, black pepper, straw and earth, even the cherry, blackberry, currant fruit seems rugged, has a penetrating and crisp profile. Medium-bodied, suave and svelte package, the acidity shapes everything into a concise message. Straw, hay, cut grass, unusually laser like merde, dried beef, leather notes. The cherry, blackberry fruit achieves a certain level of ripeness and cruises, no great cresting action. Salt lick, saline yet floral, takes on additional pungency as it opens and actively swirls about the mouth. Plenty of time ahead. 91 points
Turley
Napa Valley, California
Hayne Vineyard
Petite Sirah
2004
$75.00
15.0%
Impenetrable black purple core, youthfully vibrant red magenta rims, no visual sign of aging. The nose filled densely with peanut, pressed flowers, plum to blackberry jam, cinnamon and clove spice, blunt and dense, what length it has is due to momentum not natural expressiveness. Full-bodied, dense like lead, again with the peanut shells. The merde element is light. Generally, all about the round, ripe coconut custard, caramel and cinnamon as well as the plum, blackberry, blueberry fruit. Appears to have not budged much from its youth, tastes like it just came out the chute. Which leaves you thinking this is really you will ever get no matter how long you wait. 88 points
Thackrey, Sean
Napa Valley, California
Rossi Vineyard
Orion Old Vines
Blend
1998
$65.00
14.3%
Murky black core, burnt sunset crimson to orange rims, brooding is where it’s at. The nose initially lifts with eucalyptus then descends with plum/prune, maraschino cherry fruit and a touch of caramel, smoky at turns with pine and earth, has serious textural richness, close to heaviness in the end, witch hazel medicinal qualities. Medium-bodied, raw acidity, merde, muddy earth, tar, mesquite smoke, black tea leaf, sour white grapefruit, a whole lot going on. Minty as expected. With elderberry, blueberry, plum the fruit is concentrated but more savory than sugary. That prune comes out at the end, touch of milk chocolate. Aggressive, there is a certain volatility to it. Syrah based field blend. 89 points
Gazin, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1976
Some purple in the core, however, it’s mostly a bright brick red with orange to yellow hued rims. The nose is wet leather, earth, tar and matted forest floor matter, not getting much fruit, ends with a sharp medicinal note. Light-bodied and close to dilute, this has clearly seen its best days pass some time ago. Roasted cherry, currant fruit only in the attack. The gets stemmy and green, not even any cedary sweetness. Metallic and earthy, comes across as excessively acidic. Dried tree bark and tea leaves at the end. Nope, nothing to see here folks. 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc. 82 points
Prager, Weingut
Wachau, Austria
Dürnsteiner
Hollerin
Smaragd
Riesling
1995
$40.00
13.5%
Very dark golden color but not pushing amber, the rims are huelessly transparent, a touch dull. Big tropical nose of pineapple, guava, apricot, nectarine fruit, close to poached, strong rubber component, minor wet stone and a bit of lactose, the citrus is somewhat mute. Medium-bodied, tacky, sticky mouth feel, drying texture. The acidity is still puckering, here this allows it to play up the white grapefruit, tangerine element. The milkiness is more pronounced, however, likewise the smokiness. More bite than length in the pineapple, nectarine, papaya, green apple fruit. Retronasally turns very floral. One a gentle downward slope but quite good still. 91 points
Hirtzberger, Weingut Franz
Wachau, Austria
Spitzer
Honivogl
Smaragd
Grüner Veltliner
1998
$42.99
14.5%
Shiny deepened gold color, fills in the rims well as well as pools fully into the glass. Zesty pineapple, papaya, guava and pink grapefruit filled nose, there’s some milkiness in there too, moderate pine breeze, not much minerality and does not have staying power in the nostrils. Full-bodied, layers itself on the palate, piney, leans on sour white to pink grapefruit citrus. Displays a big punch of nectarine, pineapple, green apple fruit along with sufficient stoniness. The acidity level is good for its heft, at times runs a bit hot alcohol wise. Overall, boisterously tropical, doesn’t have the legs to kick powerfully across the finish line though. 88 points
Eddy, Tom
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$24.00
13.8%
The core is more black than purple, full on rust red rims, shiny due to the very good clarity of the liquid, visually showing advancement. Loamy nose, wet underbrush, fading eucalyptus and medicinal notes, some molasses grill smoke, the plum and black currant fruit scents not especially expressive, cedar and hard butterscotch candy the last remaining traces of oak. Medium-bodied, firm mouth feel with the tannin still gripping and chewy, leaving a tacky residue on the tongue. More eucalyptus and potpourri here, herbal without being green. The cracked saddle leather, parched stony earth anchor it. The cherry, currant, plum fruit is adequate but questionable for an ability to outlast the tannin. Sweetens with mixed citrus and that grill smoke at the end. Needs a thick, fatty steak. Grapes sourced 40.3% Vyborny Gamefarm Vineyard, 22.9% Beckstoffer A-2/K-2 Vineyard, 15.3% Stout/Clark Vineyard, 12.6% Pedregal Vineyard, 8.9% Bella Vista Block 1 Vineyard. 88 points
Lassaigne, Jacques
Champagne, France
Rosé de Montgueux Extra Brut
Blend
NV
$69.99
12.0%
Pale pink bolstered by an orange tint, moderate mousse, a few visible bubbles. The nose is sinewy and stony, the apple, strawberry to cherry scents restrained, no real citrus presence, too pure and straightforward to get anything to register for an extended period of enjoyment. Medium-bodied, powerful but still gentle pétillance. Lemony while still not very citrusy. Same array of strawberry to cherry fruit. Solid wet chalk to clay notes, the acidity comes across as average even as it retains tangy bite at the end. You may get a small bit of vanilla essence at moments. Forces itself forward across the palate, not rude but certainly determined. 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir. (110918) 88 points
Brand’s of Coonawarra
South Australia, Australia
Coonawarra
Stentiford’s Reserve Old Vines Shiraz
Shiraz
1998
$33.00
13.5%
Mildly filmy purple core, not truly opaque, the rims now a burnt brick red hue, little ruby or magenta left, throwing a very fine sediment. Good amount of prune in the nose alongside the plum, cassis fruit scents, tar, orange peel, some forest floor matter, echo of milk chocolate and caramel but no overt oak presence, tends to lurch about in the nostrils. Medium-bodied, looks to have shed weight and has a clumpy mouth texture likely due to tannin residue. The acidity is decent enough and can’t say it is naught but a fruit bomb. Indeed, good use more cherry, plum, blackberry flavors, albeit what it there has a liqueur like sweetness upfront. Cocoa, mocha powder, earth and tar, remnants of eucalyptus. Appears to be on back end of plateau. 88 points
Nikolaihof
Wachau, Austria
Steinriesler
Riesling
1998
$74.99
12.0%
Sparkly yellow straw color, diminishes through the rims, sleek surface, more block-like below. The nose is all about honey, raw pie crust, lilacs, mint, gentle to cellar aged apple, pear, apricot fruit, meager dose of orange zest, almost transparent to a fault, doesn’t speak up for itself, after some time you get a little pickle brine which at least wakes you up. Light-bodied, suave acidity does its best to balance out the momentous dough, yeast qualities. Pretty florality, all fresh violets and lilacs. Noting this, at more than few points it displays a puckering sourness. Then it returns to its softer demeanor, relaxed apricot, peach, yellow apple, pear fruit with mint sprigs on top. Ends with an acceleration of the glazed pie crust. It’s alright but not really a stunning achievement or anything. 88 points
Schwengler, Weingut Wilhelm
Wachau, Austria
Dürnsteiner
Von Den Alten Steinterrassen Smaragd
Riesling
1998
$25.00
13.0%
The deepened gold color reaches into the rims, has a moderate shine to it, overall looks its age, advancing at a steady pace. The nose is pure and understated, streamwater, stones, demure peach, apricot, pear, persimmon scents, soft contours, light saline quality to it but not milkiness. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, linear and direct, presents more depth in both apricot, peach, nectarine, guava fruit as well as pink grapefruit to tangelo citrus, sweet and expands cheek to cheek. Flowers as well as basil, oregano, has a definite savory side. That said, stays citrus dominated to the end, allowing for wet stone and slate like notes, these more than minerals. Light honey at the end, plus a nice burst of white pepper. No one aspect outside of the citrus jumps out at you but as a whole an impressive package. 90 points
Malartic-Lagravière, Château
Bordeaux, France
Graves
Blend
1975
Moderate amount of purple left in the core, mostly a youthful blood red with an orange rust rim, vigorous. The nose at first is mostly rubber cement and tar, damp earth and then forest floor matter, bell pepper and pine needles, the blackberry, cherry, plum fruit is there but hidden under the aforementioned aspects. Medium-bodied, loses weight through the finish. Metallic edge to it, that tar and rubber pungent here as well, billows through the mouth. The bell pepper is very strong and with the earthiness it has more aggression than expected. Light cedar or sandalwood, no real oak presence. Camphor notes, aged potpourri. The plum, currant fruit is in no danger of disappearing but is not a major presence. Can’t discern much tannin but the acidity delivers shocks through to the finish. Its general barnyardy nature might turn some off but it is certainly a typical aged Graves. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in November 2014
Evangile, Château l’
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1975
Clean with a glimmer of purple left in the blood red core, the rims take on a more burnt sunset look, bright orange and crimson, vigorously hued throughout. There is indeed a barnyardy aspect to the nose, however, the cedar and sandalwood are sweet, the tarry earth and leather rich, roasted cherry to plum scents appear before you notice their absence. Medium-bodied, soft and round yet with more than adequate spine, here in the mouth the fruit is the revelation, ripe and longlasting plum, cherry, currant fruit quite pleasing. Tea leaf, cedar, cumin and leather, the earthiness seems a bit more restrained here. There is a certain drowsy character to it, a sign of its age. Finishes well, full in a barrel chested manner. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Burgaud, Domaine Jean-Marc
Beaujolais, France
Morgon
Côte du Py
Vieilles Vignes
Gamay Noir
1999
$14.99
13.0%
Burnt sunset red to orange in color, vibrant and bright, full rims, quite beautiful visually. Fart and leather most prevalent initially in the nose, smoky fruit mostly plum to cherry, pinch of cocoa powder, the stone acts as a counterweight to any sweetness, takes a long time to unwind. Light to medium-bodied, gritty texture, here too it requires patience to begin to show anything meaningful. It still has decent plum, cherry, blackberry fruit and is spicy before the leather/rawhide appears alongside charred earth and coffee rinds. Chewy to the end, manages a strong floral musk next to cedar and tar nuances. Nice but not spectacular, maybe open in the morning and revisit at night. 88 points
Gunderloch, Weingut Carl
Rheinhessen, Germany
Nackenheimer
Rothenberg
Auslese Goldkap AP #19
Riesling
1993
$42.00
10.0%
Aged color even with lots of green flecks in the golden base, has a brilliant surface which deepens well into the glass. There’s a light salty, saline quality to the nose as well as honey, lime to pink grapefruit citrus, mango, peach, nectarine fruit, voluptuously primary and pleasingly explosive nostril presence. Medium-bodied, cream to custard notes, vanilla, also ginger to cinnamon spice, sweet all around. This extends to the compote-like apricot, peach, nectarine and apple fruit. Like real fruity. The sweetness due in part to the average at best acidity. The lime to lemon citrus has a soft drink, confectionary quality. Liquid grill smoke accents. So gregarious that you really don’t feel fair analyzing it. 90 points
Clos de la Coulée de Serrant (Nicolas Joly)
Loire, France
Savennières
Coulée de Serrant
Moelleux
Chenin Blanc
1995
$60.00
14.5%
Cloudy amber orange in color, extends fully into the rims as well as pools down into the glass. The nose is a big burst of concentrated peach, apricot, pear fruit, light honey and botrytis, thick marmalade and cinnamon, for all its weight has decent freshness too, maybe some chalk or stone dust but not clearly expressing terroir. Full-bodied and broad shouldered in the mouth, sweet attack more so because the acidity has moments of timidity. But there’s so much apple, peach, apricot fruit that it has natural appeal and ably supported by lanolin, spiced oranges, lemon peel and cinnamon notes. There is also an uncooked bread dough element which grows as it warms. Here too the wet stone seems close to an afterthought. Shifts around as it warms and opens. 91 points
Gahier, Michel
Jura, France
Arbois
Savagnin
2006
$34.99
12.5%
Shiny golden straw hue, lighter rims, youthfully pretty and bright. The nose is very open with a lively lift, all fresh apples, apricots and orange zest, extremely fast paced and clean. Medium-bodied, steady presentation start to finish with suavely determined acidity which runs the show but allows for fun. The structure tends to play up the smoky, stony qualities and ratchet up general sourness. Pineapple, guava, pear fruit make a quick statement, after some time it gets so smoky that the grapefruit to lime citrus seems an afterthought. Sinewy, coils on the palate. At times there seems to be a light flor dusting. Energizing wine that is easy to drink in big gulps. 91 points
Nigl, Weingut
Kremstal, Austria
Sauvignon Blanc
1995
$20.00
13.0%
Extreme shine to it, belies the very deepened gold hue, fills out the rims nicely, outside of the darker color you wouldn’t guess its age. Presents an oily nose, some cheese notes, zippy grapefruit to lemon citrus, dried peaches, honey, then sauna stones before ending mutely. Medium-bodied, first impression is of yeast and bread, piercing acidity sweeps that aside in favor of zesty grapefruit. The minerals and stone accord themselves well. Pressed violets touch up the star fruit, papaya, pineapple flavors, all zest with little juiciness. Slightly green at the finish but the maderized aspect kept within control. Amazingly alive. 90 points
Leitz, Weingut Josef
Rheingau, Germany
Rüdesheimer
Berg Schlossberg
Spätlese AP #4
Riesling
2001
$26.99
8.0%
Great luster to the surface, very reflective, pools in layers below the surface, remains a youthful golden color, minimal hue loss at the rims, distorts your vision at most angles. There is indeed a stone component to the nose, however, the apricot, peach, nectarine, pineapple fruit remains in the driver’s seat with tangerine citrus as co-pilot, very light touch of diesel, mint and lilacs, smells young as well. In the mouth it’s more medium-bodied now and has shed some weight. The acidity lends it sparkle and there is pleasing sourness in the lime, lemon to pink grapefruit citrus. More salinity than minerality, creates a savory finish. Pineapple, nectarine, kiwi, peach fruit consistent start to end. Coriander styled sweet spiciness. Great mouth presence and tasty as well, not providing an indication of when it will “develop” or what that might entail. 91 points
Lagune, Château La
Bordeaux, France
Haut-Médoc
Blend
1981
Semi-filmy red-purple core, not quite opaque, dark crimson rims. Metallic and barnyardy nose featuring gas, wet fur, fairly volatile albeit still displays strong cherry, plum fruit scents, cedar and wet stone, smoothes out marginally with a little air time. Medium-bodied, does a good job of retaining weight to fill out the mid-palate. Comes off as acidic to the point of sourness, slightly drying tannic effect at the end. The fruit is front loaded and mostly gone, basic cherry, red currant to plum. More or less typical array of cedar, dried tobacco, pressed flowers and merde. Can’t say it’s pretty but likewise not ugly and for as tart as it is overall, it does not discourage further sips. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot. 86 points
Teyssier, Château
Bordeaux, France
Bordeaux
Clos Nardian
Blend
2010
$14.00
13.5%
Matured golden color is pushing amber, deep if on the flat side, little sparkle, stays consistent through the rims. The nose is taken up in large part by butterscotch, vanilla pudding and coconut custard scents, followed on by orange marmalade, poached apricots and peaches and nothing that even remotely smacks of terroir, that notes, has admirable weight and nothing offensive. Full-bodied, more toasty than acidic, hard to say how much of the latter is actually present as all that oak settles quickly on the tongue. Floral with a strong perfumed quality, it seems that even at this earlyish stage the apricot, apple, pear, melon fruit has lost sweetness without much to take its place. The oak even seems sour at times. This was crafted and sculpted more than shepherded. Unspecified percentages of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle. 86 points
Beringer
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Third Century
Cabernet Franc
1996
$28.00
14.1%
Slight cloudiness to the purple core, wide crimson to brick red rims, touch of orange furthest out, still youthful on the whole. The nose gets filled with lots of menthol and pine, supplemented by leather, dried beef blood, earth, there’s a smoky roasted quality to the cherry, blackberry scents, powerful lift. In the mouth it has shed weight to a medium body, there’s big acidity and some tannin remaining, both of which frame the still considerable blueberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit. Very floral, was likely quite oaky in its youth based on the amount of caramel, vanilla left today, cedary too. Minimal presence of green pepper nor general greenness. Has a syrupy texture even with that roasted nature, zesty personality. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in October 2014
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
1999
$51.99
13.0%
Cloudy and flat appearance, wide brick red rims, has a warm glow to it. Fleshy, layered nose, beef jerky, salt lick, violets, roasted cherry to cranberry fruit, sinewy smokiness, more stone than white grapefruit, no crescendo but really cruises at a high level with fullness. Medium-bodied, firm and acidic so that the pacing is always brisk. Leather, game gristle, salt meld with the white grapefruit to tangerine citrus. The cherry, plum, blackberry fruit is zippy and crisp. Alternates very well between sweet and savory. Rich finish, the breadth of the palate coverage does not diminish the sweetness, still has what you want. 92 points
Druet, Pierre-Jacques
Loire, France
Bourgueil
Grand Mont
Cabernet Franc
1997
$21.99
12.5%
Piercing nose emphasizing leather, tar, black earth and sour cherry to blackberry fruit, impossible to escape the funkiness although not overly herbaceous, more tree leaf and bark, as “outdoorsy” as it is the fruit leaves the punctuation. Medium-bodied, sweeter than expected, liqueur-like blackberry, blueberry, black cherry to golden raisin fruit, remains primary still. Pleasing array of matted straw, tar, earth, animal hide, the bell pepper more dried than juicy. The violets-led florality swells in the mid-palate. Some black pepper qualities. The tannin feels bottom heavy but mostly resolved. Stretches out through the finish. On its plateau but the front end of said plateau. 89 points
Roty, Domaine Joseph
Burgundy, France
Gevrey-Chambertin
Les Fontenys
Pinot Noir
1988
13.0%
More blood orange than violet in the core, burnt rims of yellow-orange, good clarity and bright. Fart and barnyard nose, brown earth, eventually segues into cherry and blackberry fruit to candied orange peels, especially with air time, not short but ends bluntly on a dime. Medium-bodied, tannins resolved but you can tell they were there. Lighter acidity, maybe age brings this to the fore. High-toned with tea leaves, tree bark, tar and asphalt. Veers into wildflowers and violets, this softens it but it stays savory. The cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit is still there and will continue to hang on tenaciously for the near term. The tar element comes back huge at the end while floral still. 91 points
Magnien, Domaine Stéphane
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Les Sentiers
Pinot Noir
2011
$66.99
12.5%
Clean reddish violet in hue, more garnet rims, good shine, somewhat average in appearance. Featuring violets, lilacs, the nose is light of touch, the bright scents of red cherry and raspberry deepen into cranberry, pure and primary to the point of simplicity, leaves no sense of where it’s going. In the mouth it is light-bodied, tannic with a firm mouth entry, savory with herb, tea leaf elements. Concentrated yet dry cherry, strawberry, cranberry fruit. Notes of sour white grapefruit pair well with stone, chalk. At times can be on the pretty side but tight and maybe close to closing down. 88 points
Biondi-Santi
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
1978
12.5%
Burnt red-orange in color, full on bricking, yellowing along the rims, however, nice vibrancy despite its age, interesting to analyze visually. Tea leaf, leather, cigar wrapper, tar uncoil in the nose, the cherry to berry fruit has held on credibly enough, potpourri styled florality, succinct rather than short. Light to medium-bodied, the acidity and to a lesser extent the tannin still rule the roost. The whole presentation does change over time as the bottle opens over a few hours, takes on some weight and complexity. You get some asphalt to cement alongside earth, leather. The cherry, raspberry fruit has an angular feel to it, this never quite resolves fully. Not the fullest finish but what’s there stands up for itself. 87 points
Fischer, Dr.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Ockfener
Bockstein
Auslese Goldkap AP #10
Riesling
1990
8.0%
Well-bronzed color while clear and shiny, hue holds well into the rims, very pretty. The nose provides no real sense of place per se, offers mainly apricot, peach, golden apple fruit, flower water, vanilla, honey, caramel, concentrated and full not especially focused, good lingering effect. Full-bodied, achieves solid mouth traction and has grip, the acidity is good plus. Salty attack yields to wet stone, vanilla, cinnamon with rubber tire permeating throughout. The fruit has a vaguely poached quality, apricot, peach, pear, apple with added pineapple to guava notes, not painfully sweet. Holds its weight and heft to the end. More power than finesse. 90 points
Knoll, Weingut Emmerich
Wachau, Austria
Loibner
Ried Loibenberg
Smaragd
Grüner Veltliner
2000
$29.99
13.5%
Fat golden glow to it, matured in look, full rims too, verges on orange. Biting tropical nose of pineapple, papaya, sour white grapefruit to orange citrus yet also has a prettier floral side, also wet sauna stone smoke, not so peppery. Full-bodied, on the soft side and here you do get those peppery qualities. Tangy pink grapefruit, orange citrus, slightly sweetening in nature. In keeping the pineapple, mango fruit is juicy and coconut to vanilla custard accents further the agreeability. The acidity is average at best and the richness of the fruit remains its best selling point. Zesty finish with an increase in sour bite, somewhat compensating for the lack of acidity. Easy to like, don’t see any future improvement. 89 points
Vatan, Edmond
Loire, France
Sancerre
Clos La Néore
Sauvignon Blanc
2002
$41.99
12.5%
The color is maturing, not near bronzing but certainly a darker yellow, has a semi-flat surface and loses hue around the rims. Honey, lanolin, pressed flowers and licorice join together for a soft and agreeable nose, underneath is a solid core of apricot and peach scents, musky lift, just keeps expanding. Medium-bodied, round and soft mouth feel, as if gently settled into itself. Leads with pineapple, peach, apricot fruit and a hint of bubblegum, over time you discern some stone powder and lesser flint. Really soaks into the tongue, the acidity is subtle but there when you need it. Violets and beeswax a force as it ends, on the whole trails off slightly during the finish before one final flourish. Leaves behind a strong floral imprint. Perhaps not textbook but remarkable enough taken on its own. 91 points
Chevalier, Domaine de
Bordeaux, France
Graves
Blend
1975
Gauzy black to brick red core, minimal purple remaining, the rims a rusty red to orange to yellow, very good surface shine, appears aged but not tired. There is a medicinal quality to the nose, stone shards, earth and a fine core of concentrated cherry, dark berry fruit, whatever it lacks in verve it still has in basic fruit and length. In the mouth it is medium-bodied with a full center and more than adequate finish, no real oak presence except for maybe a few chocolate, cedar and toast notes. The tannin has relented, however, does leave a mild tacky residue on the tongue. Roasty plum, cherry, black currant fruit, the tangy metallic edge likely adds sourness to the perception of the fruit. More steady than intense but easy to take that result at this juncture. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Ynez Valley, California
Larner Vineyard
Syrah
2005
$30.00
15.2%
The purple core is close to black and appears to have lost some glow, in turn the rims have taken on a full crimson red cast, not bricking per se but not with the bright saturation of youth. Plum, cherry, blackberry fruit in the nose escapes pruney notes, menthol to licorice accents, there is a slight meatiness but more so a plastic element, perhaps buttressed by the alcoholic fumes, when it calms down at the end the florality wafts in. Medium-bodied, has shed weight and now its bones show more. Rich plum, blueberry fruit supported by milk chocolate and menthol. Orange peel nuances sneak in now and then. For the most part any oak presence has knit in completely. Dries out slightly through the finish. Has held on credibly, unsure if it has improved in respect to tertiary development. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in August 2014
Roche-Aux-Moines (Nicolas Joly), Château de la
Loire, France
Savennières
Clos de la Bergerie
Chenin Blanc
2005
$39.99
14.5%
Decently deepened gold color, still fresh enough to not be bronzed, nothing visually really betrays its age much. The nose has nice roundness to it, the peach, apricot, mango, papaya fruit has good thrust but no real vibrant tropicality. Floral dew and mint, lots of purity even though not giving a sense of terroir, easy to sniff and enjoy. Medium-bodied, very low apparent acidity yet has sufficient solidity for presence. Apple juice, peach, pear, apricot fruit, the basic array. Cinnamon spice, lighter clove presence. Pressed roses then yeast and dried bread. Lacks bite, more clamps down so you feel its jaw muscles at the finish. Steady not spectacular and satisfying on the whole. 88 points
Moines, Domaine aux
Loire, France
Savennières
Roche aux Moines
Chenin Blanc
1994
$32.99
12.0%
Deep amberish to golden color, slight fading at the rims, clean and for its age avoids dullness. Wooly nose, dried honey, dried tangerine, grapefruit pulp, flowers and stone, no real minerality, light apricot pits and persimmon but not many fruit scents. Full-bodied yet hollow, dry extract and a tacky mouth feel, the acidity is sort of dull. Honeyed yet not sweet, orange marmalade. No fruit left, remnants of pineapple, nectarine, apricot. Wet limestone and chalk. Smoky, more bitter though. Notes of dried baking dough. Kinda played out but not completely shot. 86 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2014
Vissoux, Domaine du
Beaujolais, France
Moulin-à-Vent
Les Trois Roches
Gamay Noir
2006
$21.99
13.0%
The core is mainly purple but at the same time barely so, lots of ruby, the rims turn to a washed out scarlet to brick red. Raspberry, blueberry infused nose, strong floral musk, molasses, touch of chocolate then some dried beef, earth but no real sense of terroir, mostly lowkey fruit and flowers. Medium-bodied, has decent tannic punch but at best so-so acidity. A solid white grapefruit presence gives the attack life. Things then sink into a pool of blueberry, cherry, boysenberry fruit and light banana. At times you also get apricot pits. Less floral here, the citrus takes up any free space. That banana, bubblegum stays in the background. More stone and road dust than the nose suggested. Overall, very good job of seamless pleasure rather than fireworks or profundity. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2014
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$45.00
14.2%
Blackish purple core, more straight up dark than vibrant at this stage, same for the rims, they have moved into a somber brick red hue, even allowing for the strong saturation. The nose still betrays a big oak presence although has knit in as much as it will, vanilla, dill, cedar, hard butterscotch candy, at the same time has a earthy to gamey edge, lends it pleasing ruggedness, the floral mist pretties up the blackberry, black currant fruit scents, needed given an increasing muddy earth funk as it opens with air time. Medium-bodied, while the nose does not show it, the palate does show its age, drying out and short as a result. More tang than juice in the cherry, plum, black currant fruit, some green apple tones. On that note, the acidity seems more pronounced at this juncture than the tannin. Caramel, butterscotch, vanilla there but the cedar has more pungent lift. This is really a very nice wine, however, the lack of meaningful tertiary aspects holds it back from greatness. Plus don’t think waiting longer would manifest them. Grapes sourced from the Morisoli Vineyard and Herb Lamb Vineyard. 90 points
Huet, G.
Loire, France
Vouvray
Clos du Bourg
Moelleux 1ère Trie
Chenin Blanc
1959
11.5%
Cloudy zinc orange color, semi-filmy, brighter yellow rims, while aged nothing here visually suggests tiredness. The nose is poached apricot, peach, nectarine, pear fruit and orange marmalade, some sharper apple snap, ginger snaps, has a certain spicy liveliness to it. Full-bodied, clings and hugs the palate, semi-sweet and concentrated but at the same time also has an admirable fluidity. Some lactose, milk, all this overcome by tangerine, grapefruit citrus and lemon, for all of its honey and brown sugar this is not really fully a sugary dessert wine, it has the firmness of a younger wine, can’t say there’s a lot of acidity on display but not lacking structure for its type. Honey, the peach, apricot, pear fruit comes with a paste like consistency, lingers for a prolonged period. This is the kind of wine you really hope to taste for the educational experience. 92 points
Bründlmayer, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Zöbinger
Heilingenstein
Alte Reben
Riesling
1997
$32.99
13.5%
Deep but flat golden color, easy to see through and not a lot of difference from core to rims, really not showing much age at all. The nose does have a lactose, leesy edge to it, however, tropical in a fat and gentle sense, really wants to soak in, mild herbal bite, mint, lemon curd, orange marmalade, yellow apple, pear, very light oily stone, pure and streamlined even given its age, kind of has a real emphasis on bigness versus transparency of constituent elements. Full-bodied, piquant pineapple, nectarine fruit with white grapefruit, blood orange citrus, softens a little into peach, apricot nearing finish. Not very advanced, some milk and yeast notes but really it’s all fruit, citrus and acidity at this moment. Maybe higher doughiness at end. This is where you want to catch it, right level of complexity, after this it is a slow, graceful slide into oblivion. Drink heartily and often now. Noticeably Austrian which does not happen all that often, especially at this age. 91 points
Simone, Château
Provence, France
Palette
Blend
2000
$53.99
12.5%
Mild dullness to the advanced golden color, close to bronzed, clear rims, interestingly rich, not that old in visage. Mildly maderized nose, dough, cinnamon spice, molasses, orange peel, honey, good expansiveness in the apricot, peach, stiffens enough to gain contour but basically not all that intriguing. Medium-bodied, dough, yeast, lemon to tangerine citrus, flor and honey start things off. Then piles on similar brown sugar, peach, apricot, nectarine, vanilla, ginger, cinnamon, has a heavy bottom but has movement. Shoulders are squared through the finish. Not sure what to make of it, may still be moving towards its true optimal window. Interesting perhaps to the point of distraction, you never quite settle into it. That said, it’s a warm tummy wine, especially for a white. Primarily Clairette, remainder unspecified percentages of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc and Muscat Blanc. 89 points
Clape, Auguste
Rhône, France
Cornas
Syrah
2001
$59.99
13.0%
Close to opaque black-purple core, blood red, the rims are rich crimson red, pretty good clarity for what is going on. Some caramel first on the nose, very collected and suave plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit, stony as in borderline impassive, not really long but not seemingly short either, other than some peanut shell, cocoa, merde funk at the end seems on the closed down side. Full-bodied, bell pepper, black pepper, vague grapefruit led citrus, the acidity brings out more terroir than fruit. Wooly, leather, grill smoke, sour cherry, blackberry fruit and Italian plum, Has the flesh to fill out the end but also seems to have lost some weight. Not quite classic, seems safe like it does not want to offend. Actually think it has evolved about as much as it will, not sure what more it can offer. But certainly a pleasurable wine and true to its place. 89 points
Voge, Alain
Rhône, France
Cornas
Cuvée Les Vieilles Fontaines
Syrah
1997
$52.99
12.5%
Red brick to rust in color, some purple left in the core, burnt edges with almost as much orange as red in it, admirable fullness in the rims. Fleshy and aggressive nose of metal shavings, wet earth, damp horsehide, vaguely sweaty, excellent ripeness remaining in the black cherry, blackberry, plum fruit, has this sinewy stretching out to it, not length as much as uncoiling, smoky and close to ashen. Medium-bodied, viciously acidic attack which almost scrapes the palate. That said, has depth without giving up any flesh. White grapefruit, iron, camphor, beef blood. with all this still allows for some floral prettiness. Sour red fruits. No real oak presence, some retronasal action. Has a clean enough finish, the tang keeps twisting your tongue. Tough-minded but not unwilling to hug you. At peak, some years left. 92 points
Magnien, Domaine Michel
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Les Fremières
Pinot Noir
1999
$36.99
13.0%
Little cloudiness to the reddish purple core, just over opaque, burnt red rims, if someone told you it’s older you’d agree, if they didn’t you’d agree just the same. Simple nose, straightforward and accessible, a lot of cherry, dark berry fruit, quiet flowers, whiff of citrus, slow lift, quite strange experience, can’t really imagine it is closed down but perhaps. In the mouth it’s leathery and earthy right off the bat, the acidity is very good and gives it some forward momentum. Red cherry, blackberry, boysenberry fruit. Tannins clamp down towards finish, that’s it for the fruit. Stone, dried leather, fruit pits, pressed flowers of yesteryear. Keeps a certain density to it through the finish. Mild grapefruit citrus bite in and out. Okay, the more you drink this the more you realize it is indeed shut down hard. 88 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile
Riesling
2000
$33.99
13.0%
Good shine and transparency, clears out around the rims, trim and youthful. Strong wet stone, dried oil notes, gives the nose a certain flatness, moderate strength in the orange, lemon citrus, the fruit more like peach, apricot, yellow apple than anything tropical, minimal florality, tends to drift off a bit at the end. Full-bodied, while it has good plus acidity doesn’t have a considerable amount of lift, although the florality is pleasing and especially towards the finish you get an elevation in the lime, tangerine, pink grapefruit citrus. Stone, oil, even verging on earthiness at times. Blunt finish, showing more power than finesse. Will it develop nuance with more time? 90 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile
Riesling
1996
$29.99
13.0%
Extremely shiny and bright even as the golden hue has deepened with age, rims are about as full as expectable. Oily nose with large scale white grapefruit, lemon, tangerine citrus, wildflowers and thyme, tart apple, peach, pear to passion fruit scents, while there is a light touch of vanilla basically it comes across as fresh as when bottled. Medium-bodied, witheringly strong acidity, active from the very start to finish. Kaleidoscope of pink grapefruit, lime, tangerine citrus, high wattage and borderline savory. Fennel, rosemary with a fine underlying minerality. A dry sort of tropicality to it, kiwi, pineapple, nectarine, passion fruit, very long and intense. Stony finish with oil overtones. Really, has not budged an inch and is all the better for it. 93 points
Soucherie (Pierre-Yves Tijou), Château
Loire, France
Chaume
Chenin Blanc
12.5%
$22.99
1989
Fully bronzed color, not dull but not shiny, transparent enough, the rims turn yellowish, completely matured from a visual perspective. The nose is reticent, lactose blends with molasses, orange marmalade, green apple and pear, has a stone underpinning, clean if not fresh, appears to have shed weight and sweetness, smells close to a dry wine. In the mouth it is medium-bodied, has more traction but here too the sweetness has receded. There’s caramelized brown sugar, honey, toffee notes as well as cinnamon and ginger spice. Not a lot of acidity, maybe why there’s a gritty texture to it at times. Lime and pink grapefruit are fresh, trump that orange marmalade. Not quite poached or dried fruit in character apricot, peach, pear to pineapple fruit. A nice wine, not a “big” style dessert wine so that would have to be factored into how and when it gets consumed. 88 points
Graham’s
Douro, Portugal
Vintage Port
Blend
1985
$89.99
20.0%
Fair degree of purple left in the core, however, a scarlet red takes over way before you really get to the rims, good overall clarity, looks about squarely in middle age. On the nose it is somewhat slimmed down and direct, perhaps more alcoholic than one might prefer, golden raisin, date, fig more than prune, not that sweet, has a twiggy, earthy side for sure, spiced orange peel, camphor, pulls up short for no apparent reason. Medium-bodied, by no stretch is this a blockbuster, more so a sinewy bantamweight, a contender at that level. Some plum but mostly fig, date, golden raisin, derives as much sweetness from the chocolate powder, cinnamon, ginger notes. Tannin all but resolved, comes across as having some acidic kick. Floral finish. While it lacks depth and layered weight, it gives all it has. If you can take it at face value and find the right use for it you won’t be disappointed. Unspecified percentages of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, etc. 88 points
Montbourgeau, Domaine de
Jura, France
l’Etoile
Blend
2008
$21.99
13.0%
Very good depth to the maturing golden color, not much loss along the rims, on the whole looks as if entering middle age. The nose leads with pie dough, pastry flakes and honey, followed up on with orange, grapefruit citrus spritz and nutmeg spice, has good punching power, perhaps at times on the blunt side, as it warms the doughiness gains in scale. Full-bodied, pours itself right into the mouth and saturates your mouth pores, the dough, pie crust might bore were it not for the acidity which jolts things into a more lively posture. Peach, apricot, cherry and nectarine fruit bring sweetness but mostly sourness. Brings out something akin to mint and flowers but not in a very fresh manner. Herbal finish softened by baking spices, accents of something close to sea salt water. Interesting stuff and just enjoyable enough so you can ignore thinking about it too much. Mainly Chardonnay, some Savagnin. 88 points
Lapierre, Marcel
Beaujolais, France
Morgon
Gamay Noir
2003
$23.99
13.0%
Filmy red-purple in color, shifts to brick red and then orange as it reaches out towards the rims, impressively full, at the same time does bear the hues of a maturing wine. There is some volatility to the nose, remnants of strawberry and raspberry succumb to plum, black cherry, blackberry scents, there is a mild roasted quality overall but not that bad, wildflowers. stone smoke, not dense as in layers, dense as in impassive. Medium-bodied, on the sour side, not for any lack of fruit, plenty of raspberry, cranberry, red cherry flavor. Just that the acidity shaves off a lot of flesh and there’s not much tertiary development to step in and fill the gaps. Wooly, sweaty, not quite leather. Does have a stemmy, very mildly underripe quality. The citrus does not freshen much but lots of thrust in the white grapefruit, sour orange flavors. Can’t imagine much tertiary development beyond what is present today, only future diminishment of fruit. Get ’em while they’re hot. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2014
Wittmann, Weingut
Rheinhessen, Germany
Westhofener
Kirchspiel
QbA Trocken AP #31
Riesling
2001
$17.99
13.0%
Advancing color of orange to dark gold, dense enough to fill the rims, while clear on the flat side, not that sparkly, overall doesn’t really betray its age. The nose has a considerable amount of uncooked dough, pie crust to it, embellished by cinnamon spice and mint, good deal of juicy pink grapefruit, lemon, lime citrus, while fleshy and approachable not getting much fruit, mainly pineapple, red apple, peach and cherry scents, more wet chalkboard notes than any real minerality. Medium-bodied, lays itself squarely on the tongue, in no way lacks for acidity, however, can’t stop itself from wanting to have fun. A gusher of pink grapefruit, lime, tangerine citrus sets the tone early. Savory herbs, wet stone and here added mineral bite. Plagued somewhat by that doughy, leesy stuff but not that badly and it recedes with air time. Star fruit, pineapple, passion fruit, peach, nectarine, all juicy enough but not necessarily sweet. For a relatively “humble” wine delivers a punch and allows you to just enough it too. 90 points
Reverdy, Pascal and Nicolas
Loire, France
Sancerre
Cuvée Les Coûtes
Sauvignon Blanc
2003
$16.99
13.0%
Very bright, but clearly advanced, yellow gold color, has retained a green tint, normal fading around the rims. Smoky, oily nose, like hot asphalt and gasoline, bready as well, manages some mint, lemon reduction, sweet garden herbs in support of the pineapple, nectarine, green apple, pear fruit scents, not much lift yet does have decent staying power and length. Medium-bodied, the lack of acidity contributes to its flat mouth feel, as does the semi-maderized baking dough aspect. The fruit gets really tropical here with pineapple, guava, papaya, nectarine flavors. Violets, mint, licorice, orange juice, most of the elements are sweet and without much tang. That noted, that smoky, minerally quality does bubble up now and then, particularly after it opens and warms some. You can appreciate the fatness at the end, better than attenuated, still nowhere near refreshing. For an aged Sancerre it’s borderline acceptable, the paucity of acidity really hurts. 85 points
Vine Cliff
Napa Valley, California
Oakville
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$69.99
14.2%
Purple core, fully opaque, thin but dense crimson rims, more red rust than fresh blood. The nose at first is all coconut, caramel, vanilla custard, mint oil, slowly moves into cherry, blackberry fruit, moderate amount of earth, cowhide, leather, you can tell the fruit has fallen off still very good, just leaves you wondering what tertiary benefits made the tradeoff worthwhile. In the mouth it is full-bodied, tannic yet somehow creamy, leads with licorice and mint, flowers, orange blossom, burnt cocoa, coffee. Oddly “red” fruit dominated, even strawberry added to the raspberry, red cherry, red currant fruit. Mutter of bell pepper. Quite evenly paced and balanced once it hits its stride. If the fruit can hold on, arguably not “there” yet. 88 points
Prum, Weingut Joh. Jos.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Bernkasteler
Badstube
Kabinett AP #7
Riesling
2008
$21.99
8.5%
Decent depth to the golden straw color, solid from surface to glass bottom, only a slight dimming at the rims, looks only slightly maturing. More rubber than oil in the nose, full and dense, enjoyably forward, emphasizing lime to lemon citrus, sturdy peach, apricot, nectarine fruit, no real lactose presence, flowers, mint and other garden herbs, it’s coming along and thankfully not in a dumb phase. Medium-bodied, the acidity is perhaps stronger than the underlying material, suggests not one for the time capsule. Savory with rosemary, thyme notes next to the pink grapefruit, tangerine, lime citrus and wedge of vanilla fudge and cinnamon. The nectarine, pineapple, papaya, apricot, green apple fruit needs time to open but does so, likewise needs warming before any mineral smoke, stone appears. Not a baby, not fully blossomed, give it a couple more years. 89 points
Ferrando, Azienda Vitivinicola Luigi
Piedmont, Italy
Carema
White Label
Nebbiolo
2007
$39.99
13.5%
Transparent burnt sunset red hued core, wide orange rims, yellow at the outer edges, really shiny surface, looks typical for this grape and sub-region. The nose loads on the mineral dust, orange peels with even a hint of bell pepper, light leather accents, almost wooly at times, candied aspect to the raspberry, red cherry scents, not very powerful but what’s there offers itself fully. Light to medium-bodied, merde and leather, very acidic but not green. However, its earthiness makes it more wildflowers than roses per se. Given its general delicate nature, does have plum to maraschino cherry mixed into the base of dark berries. Lemon citrus, white pepper, tar, tree bark, vague anise seed. At times has some alcoholic hotness. Grows on you with each sip, its structure will hold it together for some time, aging further depends on how much fruit you want when the cork does get popped. 90 points
Occhipinti, Azienda Agricola Arianna
Sicilia, Italy
Siccagno
Nero d’Avola
2005
$29.99
13.0%
Filmy ruby-violet core, duskily opaque, wide orange to yellow rims, for all of these advanced colors, looks youthful on the whole. There’s some fart and leather on the nose, definitely needs air time and/or decanting, this somewhat masks the tar, rough, sort of volcanic stone and minerality elements, the gingerbread, dried oranges stronger, has firm and well-contoured cherry, raspberry, elderberry fruit scents, for any offputting aspects, has an appealing open air, country feel to it. In the mouth comes on quickly with white grapefruit, lemon citrus, stone, tar, pressed flowers. Jammy strawberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit, bigger through attack then sheds weight. Licorice and touch of honey, segues to straw and blood iron. You keep thinking it needs more time to breathe. On the whole it has settled into itself and can be approached today, has a good burst of energy whenever needed. 90 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Monte Bello
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$120.99
13.4%
Visually clean, scarlet infused purple core, easily opaque, crazy bright surface, some yellow-orange in the red rims. The nose can’t muster much life in the oak derived caramel, vanilla, butterscotch in support of the raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit, more aid from the fluffy wildflowers, pine tree breeze, very curious for how little is going on here. Medium-bodied, has a dry, tacky mouth feel. Dried oil, stone, white citrus peel, kind of tannic but yet not. Allows some mint, orange marmalade, licorice through to pair with the gritty cherry, blackberry fruit. Smoky, sometimes salty. Consumed over two hours so had time to open. Much more interesting than enjoyable, not sure how to sum it up. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Vasse Felix
Western Australia, Australia
Margaret River
Cane-Cut
Sémillon
2004
$21.99
12.4%
Red-orange to bronze hued core, quite shiny, yellows out at the rims while staying strong. Milk, orange marmalade, honey, mint, nose of pungent richness, good pacing forward, apricot paste, nectarine, pineapple, ginger and coriander, coconut oil, actually not as sweet as it could be, perhaps has shed a good deal of baby fat. Medium-bodied, decided dried fruit nature to the yet tangy pineapple, nectarine, apricot, papaya fruit, serious milkiness salves many wounds. Coconut, butterscotch, honey and floral paste, sticks to the tried and true basics. Hard to assess but the acidity seems average to plus. Not shapeless nor sloppy. Nice, not blazing new terrain but why does it have to, has the concentration with added bonus of cleaner, succinct finish. (375 ml bottle) 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2014
Amirault, Yannick
Loire, France
Bourgueil
La Coudraye
Cabernet Franc
2007
$13.99
12.5%
Crimson-purple core, more pure red rims, holding onto youthful saturation and fully hued throughout. Dense plum, cassis, black cherry fruit in the nose, powdered flowers, leather, damp earth, maybe even a fart or two, lower level of bell pepper, staying in the primary stage of things but in no way simple. Medium-bodied, savory and biting in a stony to minerally manner. Very ripe with biting zip to the cherry, cranberry, blackberry flavors. Broadens via wet tobacco, leather and forest floor earthiness. Then gains verticality via tones of dark chocolate and coffee. A lot more bell pepper here in the mouth without nearing greenness. In some moments has a floral side. Adequate acidity but more driven by tannin. It’s a traditional, honest wine, while it is not going to blow you away you will find it satisfying with each sip. 89 points
San Leonardo, Tenuta
Trentino, Italy
Vallagarina
Blend
1999
$69.99
13.0%
Fully opaque purple core, glowing orange to brick red rims, very dense and serious looking. The nose is explosive, mashup of sour dill, vanilla crisp, roasted cherries and raspberries, major bell pepper, muddy earth, minty at times and ends with a chocolate lift, dense and long presence. Full-bodied, layers itself quickly on the tongue, heavy while allowing for slow, steady movement. Some semi-random assortment of orange spice, chocolate, bell pepper, grass, earthen stone, ginger and cumin spice, black pepper, leather and horsehide, fluffy wildflowers, the milk chocolate lasts the longest, aided by a floral lift. Stays squared up and strong through the end. Maybe at times a touch hot. Perhaps just passing its peak. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot. 90 points
Bois de Boursan, Domaine
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
2003
$41.99
14.0%
Decent amount of purple left in the core, more so red clay to brick, further out it’s close to fully burnt crimson and orange, visually doesn’t appear all that advanced. Heavyset nose of plum, black cherry fruit, baking spices, leafy underbrush, wet leather, chocolate, garden herbs, wet wool, kind of all over the place without a guiding principle, avoids unpleasant roasted qualities. Medium-bodied, dry and tannic attack. Mélange of cocoa powder, orange peel, garrigues and pressed flowers, cinnamon stick spice. The phenolics are not raw but can unbalance things at times. Runs the gamut from strawberry, raspberry to plum, blackberry. Has the elements for sweetness but does not sustain it. Bears the mark of the vintage but smoother than might have been expected based on this. 65% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 5% unspecified other. 88 points
Puffeney, Jacques
Jura, France
Arbois
Poulsard
2011
$25.99
12.5%
Soft cloudiness to the otherwise transparent, washed out red core, the rims are mainly a dilute pink but you get a good bit of burnt orange in there too, like faded embers. Big dusty quality to the nose, minerally, bolstered by white pepper notes, blends in orange peel, rose petals, moderate thickness to the rhubarb, red cherry scents, firm overall lift, maybe needs more length. Medium-bodied, the acidity is so-so but it doesn’t come across as unstructured. White pepper bursts forth, light supporting grassiness. There’s a touch too much dryness to the strawberry, rhubarb, raspberry, green apple fruit but what’s there lasts fully to the finish. Moderately floral. Leaves a tacky residue behind on the tongue yet does not seem excessively tannic. Quite nice, not superlative. 89 points
Pernot et ses Fils, Paul
Burgundy, France
Puligny-Montrachet
Chardonnay
2004
$28.99
13.5%
Good richness to the golden hue, mere glint of green, in turn the rims are solid, does not show much age at all. Powerful nose of crushed stone, lemon/lime citrus, a sort of sour smokiness, the fruit is tropical but does not have a lot of juiciness, dry pineapple, peach, nectarine, guava scents, these take up more ground as it warms, the oak has knit in and it’s not obviously oaky. Full-bodied, not a “pinpoint” wine, more in a chewy style, the acidity broadens palate coverage and creates a drying impression. Much oakier here, a swirl of butterscotch and vanilla. Then comes the mineral water, stone, wet slate. Major lime, lemon, tangerine citrus, adds a tangy brunt through the finish. Broad shoulders, a big wine but not clumsy, the peach, apricot, nectarine, pineapple fruit is a touch slight which makes one ponder the merits of further aging. Smoky, oily accents linger at the end. 90 points
Potel, Nicolas
Burgundy, France
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Genevrières
Pinot Noir
1999
$18.99
12.5%
Dull blackish purple core, muddy to brick red thereon out, the rims are full, no general lack of color yet this is clearly an older wine. Smoky, minerally nose of damp earth, it’s not quite leafy, has a roasted aspect to the cherry, red berry scents, vague lemon to white grapefruit citrus, has credible fullness for its age and humble origin. Medium-bodied, here even earthier with a very focused metallic edge, spicy and smoky, tea leaf, white grapefruit pith, the cherry, blackberry fruit is thick during the attack but not especially long. The acidity keeps it fresh. Something like tar at the end then turns floral with sandalwood notes. Can’t say it’s horribly complex, however, drinking well, no glaring flaws, worth the patience to get to today. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2014
Barthod, Domaine Ghislaine
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Les Fuées
Pinot Noir
2008
$119.99
13.5%
Filmy purple core, brick red rims, fully hued throughout. It has a fluffy, wooly nose of wildflowers, lemon peel, smoky cherry, blackberry fruit, nothing gentle nor subtle about it, more interested in displaying power, concentrated and not budging from its primary stage. Medium-bodied, not a lot of tannin nor acidity, just juicy and friendly, sprays cherry, blackberry, raspberry all over, at times close to plummy. Most flowers, sour orange and lemon pulp. Then forest floor wetness, fallen tree matter, light hint of mushroom. Again, not that complex but satisfying for its warmth and richness and does have nice length. Hard to imagine it developing into something appreciably different. 89 points
Delas Frères
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
La Landonne
Syrah
2003
$139.99
13.0%
Purple to rust red in hue, lighter orange colored rims, an older wine, yes, but vibrant in its own way. Very smoky nose, driven by roasted meats, metal and minerals, burnt bacon, softened by caramel, toffee notes, expensive oak here, lemon zest sprayed on the ripe plum, cherry fruit scents, lurches forward with energy. Medium-bodied, round and fat still, no signs of having lost much flesh. Meat fat, bacon, animal fur give it a rustic credibility. Has acidity plus the tannin is stronger than expected and not green. The mixed black fruits are sweet, only lightly roasted. Overall it is a big wine but does not overreach, maybe monochrome but pleasingly so, balanced. Quite a good showing. 89 points
Peyre Rose, Domaine
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Coteaux du Languedoc
Clos Syrah Léone
Syrah
1996
$44.99
14.5%
Filmy, opaque blackish red core, rusty orange rims, clearly an older wine but not devoid of color. The nose is kind of flat with merde, olive pits, cocoa powder, pressed flowers, leather all thrown together, the plum and mixed black fruit scents have a slightly roasted feel to them, manages to stretch itself and last as much as possible. Medium-bodied, the texture is gritty from the fine sediment, chewy and tough, if in a good way. No lack in the plum, blackberry fruit, on the wooly side, some animal hide. Licorice, fennel, anise next to beef jerky, saddle soap. Has a great floral lift at the end. All in all, has held up remarkably well. 90 points
Allemand, Thierry
Rhône, France
Cornas
Reynard
Syrah
1995
12.5%
Clean, no filminess, some purple left in the core, mostly burnt sunset red, dried blood rims, really doesn’t look that old. The nose has some piercing volatility then unleashes horsehide, beef jerky, sauna stone fumes, sour white grapefruit pith, pressed flowers, roasted cherries and plums, quite sauvage but not vicious, opens quite well and retains its power for a good long time. Medium-bodied, dry and high toned with formidable acidity. Plenty of white grapefruit, stays clean due to the high level of stony, minerally qualities. Loads of cherry, blackberry fruit left even at this point. More floral than gamey, which plays into the cleanliness and linearity. More class than flash, lively and forceful, at the top of its game. 92 points
Valentini, Azienda Agricola
Abruzzi, Italy
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Cerasuolo
Montepulciano
2002
$68.99
14.5%
Filmy blood red to salmon pink in color, actually layers itself into the glass visually, somewhat weaker rims. The nose is a bit volatile at first then candied cherry, raspberry fruit perks up, piles on matted grasses, straw, stone bits, on the closed, dull side, even with air time it does not open much. Medium-bodied, dry and clingy mouth feel. Comprised of dough, yeast, clove and cinnamon spice, thyme and rosemary, orange peel, sandalwood, potpourri styled perfume, fully matured. Very demure cherry, cranberry fruit, stays steady at a measured level. Mildly sherried ending but very much in keeping with what it should be. Here in the mouth it does evolve and change over time and as it warms some. 91 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile
Riesling
2001
$32.99
12.5%
Worn gold color, has a subtle warm luminescence to it, at certain angles displays a greenish tint, distorts your vision as it pools into the glass. The nose has a tautness to it, wet slate and gas fumes predominate but there’s a dry tropicality too, pineapple, papaya, nectarine and peach, dried honey, good citrus component but hard to parse out, zesty in a clearly aggressive manner, not entirely sure how to demand your attention but it wants it. Medium-bodied, clumsy attack, throws itself across the palate without a plan. Every aspect is bound up, wet stone, apricot, pineapple, nectarine, papaya fruit, orange to lemon citrus. The acidity has power but it too lacks a deft hand. The parts are all there, can’t complain that this or that is missing. However, not crystallizing into an integrated choral voice just yet. 88 points
Faiveley, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Mercurey
Clos des Myglands
Pinot Noir
2010
$39.99
13.0%
Primarily garnet red in color, not much purple to be found, quite full through to the rims, zero dropoff, sparkly clean and youthfully fresh in appearance. The nose betrays a burst of strawberry, cranberry, red cherry fruit alongside wet stone, lemon zest, wet straw and grass, in no way underfruited yet the funkiness is what sticks around longest. Medium-bodied, sturdy frame with acidity in spades and good plus tannin. The cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit still able to shine but not in a very high wattage manner. The grass, stone, dry earth elements don’t suck all the fun out but they do slow things to a crawl through the mid-palate. Plenty of sour mixed white citrus. Not a bad wine but the sourness and clenched nature make it difficult to warm to it. Perhaps already closing in on itself, to reappear later. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2014
Voerzio, Gianni
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
La Serra
Nebbiolo
1996
$66.99
14.0%
Opaque, semi-blackish purple core, strong brick red rims, hint of yellow, not vivid but plenty of color. High toned nose of cocoa/chocolate, merde, mud, tart cherry, blackberry scents, wet saddle leather, has both a big roasty quality and a fresher fullness, doesn’t push its size too far and likewise seems to have avoided leaning on oak for dramatic effect. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, leads with zippy minerality, earth, and spice, really gets up in your face quickly. Here the oak toast is a bigger component but remains more or less proportionate. The cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit has a liqueur like feel. The orange zest too has an element of reduction to it. Smokier finish, chewy and big. Not sensing that a great deal more complexity is coming down the pike, probably plateaued and to be consumed in short to medium term from today. 90 points
Oddero, Fratelli
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Nebbiolo
1967
$129.99
13.5%
Brown colored core, close to no purple left, broad yellow rims, clearly a very old wine. The nose has some volatility, filled with anise, pine, roasted cherries, muddy earth, leather, cowhide, meadow grasses, for its age quite rich and heavy, has eye opening lift. Medium-bodied, the acidity is noticeably strong, otherwise it would likely have a flat mouth feel. Mixes in an attractive array of sour grapefruit to orange citrus, plum/prune, cherry, raspberry fruit with light caramel, burnt butterscotch and pine sap. At the same time it’s very smoky with a metallic edge and broken stone bits. More perfume than palate weight, as a result it’s verve is limited and the finish does become more muted. All in all, not many wines from this vintage are still fighting this hard. 90 points
Valentini, Azienda Agricola
Abruzzi, Italy
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Trebbiano
1999
$62.99
12.0%
Filmy with a warm worn gold glow to it which lends it visual depth, fills clear through the rims, moderate surface shine as well. Smoky nose with a roasty, doughy, leesy character, peppery in a milder way, as it relaxes into itself it goes all over with tea leaf, dried apples and pears, pine needles, has a rich, full nostril presence but no over showiness. Medium-bodied, spicy as in ginger or dried anise, dough, spiced orange peel, sweet tea leaf, lemon, cola, rose petals, the peach and apricot fruit a last second addition, while there’s a lot going on it happens demurely. Has a saline quality at the end. Keeps shifting as it warms, deserves to be tasted near room temperature. Broad finish. Pretty much at peak. 91 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Oberhäuser
Leistenberg
Kabinett Trocken AP #20
Riesling
2002
$24.99
11.0%
Sparkly with a lightly advancing color, remains mostly green-gold, slight fading along the rims, quite pretty. The nose is on the mute side, basic apple, pear, peach pit, touch of petrol, pleasingly floral, lemon to orange pith, not delivering much stoniness or such in compensation for the quiet fruit and extended air time does not change this. Medium-bodied, lots of acidity and bite, big time sour lime, lemon and white grapefruit citrus. The petrol comes and goes, no clear direction. The apple, pear, peach, apricot neither big nor small, just consistent. No fireworks on display, subtle, dry and chalky. Interesting and just that. 88 points
Goutorbe, Henri
Champagne, France
Grand Cru Special Club Brut
Blend
2004
$79.99
12.0%
Deepening gold color which holds nicely through to the rims, the bubbles are loosely aggregated with decent activity, fizz keeps renewing for some time after the initial pour. The breadiness in the nose balanced out by crisp, keenly edged white grapefruit to orange citrus, direct with a touch of peach pit and honey but not especially expressive in terms of stoniness or such, that said, turns even fresher with air time. Medium-bodied, firm with slightly below average pétillance, stays on the dry side, tightly wound at first. The peach, apricot, nectarine fruit is ripe without juiciness, much larger presence here, more apple on the finish. Goes lighter with the honey, more about lemon, lime and orange zest. Takes some time but does open up and has some balance given its size. Quite nice, probably would benefit from some further aging. 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. (Disgorged Mai 2012) 90 points
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