Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in December 2013
Cavagnero, Cantine Carlo & Tara
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Nebbiolo
1997
$47.99
14.0%
Full-on murk to the black purple core, rims just get to evince some orange to yellow hues, not aged but advancing visually, otherwise it’s a muddy river recently churned up. The nose is naturally layered upon itself, simply a product of the passage of time, barnyard dirt, matted grasses, plum to prune, cherry and then maybe green apple, no real oak but some honey to maple syrup, cedar, fresh leather, the ripeness of the fruit yet holds off the major portion of any tertiary development. Medium-bodied plus, has not lost heft over the years and perhaps gained some finesse during that period. Pine, cedar, sandalwood, orange spice, rose petals. The tannin makes the biggest impression and still gets all the kids to sit in their chairs. But at the end it is the acidity which gives it the snap, crackle and pop. The cherry, plum, blackberry are not boisterous yet exert not much energy getting to the finish line. Does get drier and mildly astringent at the end, suggesting it is around the back end of optimal drinking plateau. Just nice, traditional juice which serves the purpose it always should have, perform as an exemplary accompaniment to the right cuisine. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in November 2013
Montelena, Château
Napa Valley, California
Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$59.99
14.0%
The purple core is dark enough to shift over into opacity, the liquid is clear albeit there is some sediment, the rims moving from a dark ruby into brick red territory, looks like a maturing wine. The nose features a lot of cedar, dill and dried driftwood as well as cracked leather, pressed flowers, the cherry, red currant fruit doing okay but has receded some, echoes of caramel and vanilla but not sweetly oaky. In the mouth it is medium-bodied with a lot of puckering astringency, like underripe phenolics plus wood tannin laid on top. The cedar is there but the dill and herbaceous notes really elevate. That cherry, berry, currant fruit is doing alright but that pucker makes it really hard to enjoy. Menthol, potpourri, powdered vanilla, clove and leather. Even allowing it air time it never unclenches to lengthen, making for an abrupt finish. Have to hope it is really in an awkward place. 87 points
Edmunds St. John
El Dorado County, California
Wylie-Fenaughty Vineyard
Syrah
2001
$31.99
14.4%
Really in this intermediate stage where it’s hard to separate the purple from the brick red, fairly consistent throughout, little more red ruby towards the rims, given the amount of gunk in the neck and on the cork bottom the liquid is pretty clear. Raspberry to blackberry compote nose, lighter pie dough accents, chocolate and toffee but also grill fat and leather to outright cow hide, anise and clove spice, saunters around your nostrils flexing its muscles. Medium-bodied, you can feel the skeleton and discern that it has shed weight and lost some density. yet it retains a liqueur like consistency to the cherry, raspberry, blueberry fruit, aided by a molten milk chocolate aspect. Cinnamon and nutmeg, orange spice, pressed flowers. Momentary percolations of acidity but any tannin resolved. Stony and times and semi-rugged. Remains fruit-driven while at the same time you get a clear message that it is “of place.” Solidly plateaued, unlikely to have future upside so pop ’em.
89 points
Sent to Their Grave in October 2013
Kahurangi Estate
Nelson, New Zealand
Moutere
Reserve
Riesling
2002
$15.99
13.0%
Dark, matured golden color if falling short of amber, layers well into the glass and the rims hold the hue nicely. The nose shows its age with pastry flake and whipped cream notes to accompany the orange marmalade, honey, apricot, pear, persimmon and red apple fruit scents, develops some rubber notes when warmer, good fullness, tends to cling more than lift though. Full-bodied, the moderate acidity contributes to a languid pace as well as having more breadth than verticality. Honey, caramel and vanilla accents sweeten the basically tropical pineapple, guava, nectarine, apricot, cherry fruit, blunt feel. The pie dough, yeasty qualities persist in a big way. Sweet orange and grapefruit citrus just about complete the deal. This is a big wine that is not complex but what is there has been amplified with age. No real sense of terroir from it. In no way tired, but at peak or passing peak. And you have to like them big in scale, minimal raciness. (Composite Cork) 88 points
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Springs
Zinfandel
1999
$32.99
14.5%
Still has some purple in the core, wide dull crimson to brick red rims, looks well into middle age, decent clarity and not weak at the rims. The nose is youthful with bountiful plum, cherry, blueberry scents, cinnamon, caramel, coconut, also offers a salted beef, saline quality as well as wet herbaceousness, does have a strong rustic undercurrent. Medium-bodied, full spectrum of flavors, unfolding chocolate, caramel, coconut, licorice, mint, orange peel, plum to prune, blackberry, blueberry, black cherry fruit. Remarkably fresh, not much tannin but maybe more acidity than expected. Stays velvety through the finish and with air time you get earth, straw, leather, beef jerky and stone. Creates a thick mouth perfume, long presence. Arguably early yet. 70% Zinfandel, 17% Petite Sirah, 10% Carignane, 3% Mataro. 91 points
Pepe, Azienda Agricola Emidio
Abruzzi, Italy
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Trebbiano
2003
$39.99
11.6%
Very cloudy and luminescent with a yellow to metallic orange color, flirts with opacity especially with that glow. There’s some fart in the nose then dried oranges, yeast, dough, close to salty at times, dried peaches and apricots but not sweet. Medium-bodied, great acidity with that same dough and yeast element which here softens the blow. Mixes in orange to lemon zest, minerals, flowers and stone dust. Fantastic mouth traction and breadth with a spicier ending. Does quite well for itself at this point in its evolution, the acidity holds it all together. Overall, though, more of a textural experience than kaleidoscope of flavors. 90 points
Produttori del Barbaresco
Piedmont, Italy
Barbaresco
Pora
Riserva
Nebbiolo
2001
$45.99
14.0%
The reddish purple core flirts with semi-opacity but on the whole the liquid is clear and bright with only a few sediment chunks, scarlet red further out with outer rims of burnt orange. The nose is a bit thick and chunky with damp earth, wet straw and pine cone leading the way, touch of beef jerky as well, the raspberry, cherry fruit scents struggle to be heard. In the mouth it is full-bodied, not nimble yet not sluggish either, just has girth. Here there is a sweetly candied attack of cherry, raspberry, strawberry, apple fruit which really tickles your fancy and takes some sourness out of the grapefruit citrus accents. More floral here too, anise, less earthy and muddy. That said, there is an astringency, kind of like underripe phenolics, which dampens the fun past the mid-palate. One would assume that aging has just exacerbated this impression. Leather, tea leaf, dried out cedar. No sense in waiting as the fruit only going to fade further, consume with food today. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in September 2013
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
The Other
Petite Sirah
2003
$50.00
15.1%
Bright but a fully opaque black-purple with super saturated red magenta rims, no visible age at all. You get peanut shell and cocoa but no merde in the nose, some somewhat plastic notes, plenty of raisin, cherry, plum fruit, bottom heavy florality, orange reduction, sweet tea leaves and mint, persistent presence, not much development. Full-bodied, jammy and sticky, no tannin nor acidity just weight and heft to keep it anchored. Strong white grapefruit element. But the mint, eucalyptus, orange peel and flowers overshadowed by prune, plum, cherry fruit, caramel, butterscotch and toasty dark chocolate. Full finish, no drop off in intensity, foursquare. While an exercise in power and message repetition not unbalanced. 88 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002
$45.00
14.2%
Very youthful purple core, decent cleanliness even with sediment on the shoulder, thick scarlet red rims with light bricking at most. The nose has a textured richness, vanilla cream, caramel popcorn, there’s a heavy floral dew on the plum, cassis, blackberry jam, then cinnamon and nutmeg, not really showing much development leaving you to wonder if it ever will, plush to the end. Full-bodied, again leads with sweet oak, clove, cedar, vanilla, caramel, butterscotch and flowers, the full monty. The dry tannins adds a certain tackiness across the mouth. Spiced oranges lends some pep to the plum, blueberry, black cherry flavors, lots of fruit but losing some juiciness. Mutter of wet leather at the final moment. A wine of pleasure not analysis. 78% Morisoli Vineyard, 15% Herb Lamb Vineyard, 7% Beckstoffer-To Kalon Vineyard. 90 points
Cavallotto, Fratelli
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Bricco Boschis
Nebbiolo
1997
$41.99
14.0%
Quite clear liquid, just some purple to the core, more consistent red to orange brick throughout, some lightening of hue around the rims, no yellowish color, looks about middle aged. The nose is not all that expressive, licorice, flowers, cinnamon spice, shoe leather, succinct cherry and blackberry scents, not a lot going on, while isn’t dull doesn’t draw you in. Medium-bodied, satiny with smooth fluidity, the tannins relaxed as the acidity provides mild kick. Hard candy raspberry, red cherry, strawberry fruit, sugary and quite sweet. Blends in complementary components of orange peel, rose petals, sandalwood and cedar. Good length on the finish, feels young and goes down easily. No hints provided to the imbiber on future tertiary development. 89 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Syrah
1999
$59.99
13.0%
Dusky with some purple left in the core then all brick red with some yellow edges, obviously matured but not looking old per se. The nose is clean and straightforward, plump plum and cherry fruit, light green apple, a touch of animal fur and leather along with white citrus, mineral shards, pressed flowers, no outsized herbaceousness, keeps its weight well in the nostrils. Medium-bodied, soft and round, excellent palate coverage. Not much tannin, about the same for the acidity. Light prune invades the plum, blackberry, cherry fruit. Floral, the orange to grapefruit citrus is super sweet. Randomly throws menthol, licorice, sage, thyme at you, remarkably easygoing and open for business. If you want a deeply structured wine, this is not it. 91 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Oberhäuser
Leistenberg
Kabinett AP #4
Riesling
2001
$26.99
9.0%
The golden hue has certainly deepened but nowhere near amber, not a great deal of luster but the hue extends adequately into the rims. In the nose the more tropical pineapple, guava and nectarine blunted by the pervasive milkiness, regains life via active pink grapefruit and lime citrus tones, some mint and rose petals in there too, not much terroir but not coming across as faded, just clearly aged some. Medium-bodied, quite sweet with a soft drink tang as well, the lack of acidity keeps it from being as refreshing as possible. Again has a heavy emphasis on tangerine, line, pink grapefruit citrus with a flower blossom lift. Honey and molasses coat the pineapple, peach, nectarine, green apple fruit. The milkiness lower here, more like whipped cream. Minor smokiness but not really stoniness. Enjoyable, has verve and life, not that complex but should it have been? 89 points
Leasingham
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Bin 7
Riesling
2002
$14.99
12.5%
Lightly bronzed golden hue, clearly an advanced wine, has a warm glow but not much shine, the hue extends well into the rims, visually dense. Especially at first there’s a good deal of petrol and rubber in the nose, after that mostly white citrus, pear and apple skin, wet stone and a wedge of vanilla fudge, pushes intently into your nostrils, not enough room for clarity and complexity. Medium-bodied, not particularly acidic and biting but remains on the dry side, softens some as it warms. The floral notes match the rubber step for step and the white grapefruit to lemon citrus ensures it does not soften too much. There’s still that whipped cream to vanilla thing going on. You get pineapple and dried guava next to the green apple, nectarine, peach. Not spicy but more so tingly at the end. Does not go out of its way to be friendly but, conversely, isn’t rude. (Screwcap: Stelvin) 87 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile
Riesling
1999
$35.99
13.0%
Maturing golden color but not close to amber yet, on the flat side which helps it accrue some translucency which in turn fills out the rims, has a little warm glow to it too. The nose is fairly openly knit if not quite airy, anchored in thick rubber scents and wet stone, plenty of freshness in the apricot, pear, yellow apple fruit and the mixed white citrus, then sweet spices and mint, nothing pushy about it while still full. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and the acidity frames the attack, sturdy upfront, relaxing through the finish. Nice saline quality adds to the minerally stone aspect and that rubber creates a big inner mouth perfume. But here is king is the tangy lime and lemon citrus, explosive bite. Mere hint of doughiness or honey, shows good youthfulness. The peach, apricot, melon fruit steady with some pineapple bite too. Good traction on the palate. Really clicking on all cylinders right now. 92 points
Sent to Their Grave in August 2013
Stoeffler, Domaine Vincent
Alsace, France
Muhlforst
Riesling
2009
$13.99
13.5%
The golden hue definitely showing some deepening from age, at the same time not matured per se and while perhaps naturally a touch dull, not from the ravages of time, the rims are solid enough. The nose gives up a palpable rubber cornerstone around which is built apple, pear, cherry, peach fruit, some orange to grapefruit citrus, whipped cream and coconut, as it opens creates a little bit of stream water and pebbles but not a lot of terroir going on here. Full-bodied, much richer and varied in the mouth with all that toastiness leading into chocolate, vanilla, butterscotch, and mint flavors, almost dessert like at times. The apple, pear, pineapple, cherry fruit has bite but not the ripe sweetness for truly unforced length. The acidity level is fine, however, the toast and general spiciness interferes with cleanliness. More wet stone and quartz here to create more nuance. A nice wine, if somewhat disjointed, ventures off the printed recipe seeking greater rewards. Given the nature of this wine, it could turn out better in 5-6 years than what it shows now. 88 points
Merkelbach, Weingut Alfred
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Kinheimer
Rosenberg
Spätlese AP #7
Riesling
2001
$12.99
8.5%
Nice greenish cast to the yellow base, pleasing glow throughout, no amber or other coloration which would suggest advanced age, the rims hued well and with a semi-translucent shimmer to them. At first the nose is super milky, rich lactose and close to butter notes, then stabilizes into more zippy lime and lemon citrus, flowers and a light saline quality, the nectarine, kumquat, kiwi, star fruit scents not sharp enough for true tropicality yet expressive in their own right. Medium-bodied, more full than streamlined so it moves at a slower, measured pace. Chocolate and vanilla make a curious appearance next to that milkiness. There is a soft rubber element, however, not enough smokiness nor stoniness to deepen this. The acidity is good, still not the most intensely focused of wines. Here there’s more kick to the pineapple, green apple, nectarine, peach fruit, lasts fully through the finish. The biggest shortcoming is the lack of developed tertiary flavors which would evoke terroir. Otherwise, pretty damn tasty. 89 points
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
2004
$50.00
14.8%
While there’s good clarity in the purple core its opacity hinders its luminosity whereas the rims retain a ruby glow to enliven the otherwise dark crimson red hue, caught right there in the middle between youth and maturity. While the primary focus of the nose remains on plum, cherry, black currant fruit and a thick menthol dew, some beef jerky and saddle leather peeks through, molasses crisp and violets next, it does have a cleansing feel in your nostrils but not quite a full, decisive lift. Full-bodied, the florality here really dominates and brings with it a sweet orange to white grapefruit spritz. More minerally than gamey, not as developed on the palate and the cherry, black currant, blackberry fruit take up a lot of space on the couch. Not oaky but has that mesquite grill smokiness to it, caramelized brown sugar and molasses. Not a lot of tannin present, the acidity felt mostly as a steady pulse through the finish, creating a savory effect. Worth the gamble to wait another 3-4 years and see what’s what. 91 points
Donelan Family Wines
Sonoma County, California
Cuvée Moriah
Blend
2009
$21.99
14.6%
Very clear with a bright cherry red coloration dominating any purple, lightens some at the rims but what’s there holds onto a saturated glow, youthful and fresh in appearance. The nose is wound around a core of liqueur like raspberry, cherry, strawberry fruit, more sweet than sugary, pressed flowers, damp wool, sage and marjoram, holiday gingerbread cookies, not much oak showing although you do get some alcoholic blow back. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, has good acidity and nips at you in a good natured, active way. Same basic array of elements with the candied cherry, raspberry, blueberry leading the way, some apple in there too, starts to dry out in the middle, albeit not hollow, gets tacky on the tongue. Flowers, orange peel, pine, eucalyptus, sweet spices, here the caramel and vanilla bean oak stands up more clearly. Nice wine, not spectacular, but nice. 75% Grenache (Dry Stack Vineyard), 25% Syrah. 88 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Monte Bello
Cabernet Sauvignon
2001
$115.99
14.2%
The reddish purple core glows well, good clarity, the rims shiny but are a vibrant brick red by now, while richly saturated clearly an older wine. Has thick, velvety textured nose of vanilla cream, caramel, molasses, coconut, flowers and dense plum, cherry, blackberry scents, loaded with fruit, evens it out some with cedar and wet tobacco leaf accents, overall plump and evidently barely moved out of youth. Full-bodied, big and juicy, soft and agreeably forward. Sprinkles sweet spices like cinnamon, nutmeg next to cedar, orange zest, lilacs and menthol. Some tannic punch but this is no match for the sledgehammer of plum, cherry, black currant fruit. Vanilla, butterscotch, coconut appear but not crazily oaky, this aspect is receding some. Holds its body completely through the finish. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot. 90 points
Remizières, Domaine des
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Cuvée Emílié
Syrah
1999
$55.99
13.0%
Fully matured with a dulled purple core mixed in with brick red, the rims are an orange rust, excellent clarity for its age. Has a leathery, animal-like aspect to the nose followed on by wildflowers, molasses, orange crisp, and heavy plum and cherry fruit falling just short of prune, for all of its weight it stays on the soft side. Medium-bodied plus, savory and close to salty, good stoniness. Not very tannic but the acidity can flare up big time. Floral, dried white citrus, anise and dried sage, rosemary and other garden herbs. Vague touches of iron and beef jerky. The fruit is very concentrated, heavy and sweet – prune, plum, blackberry, cassis. You call adjudge it “primary” yet but with no suggestion of what tertiary development is possible, likely is what it is. 89 points
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
2004
$36.99
13.0%
Has either a dark gold or light amber color to it, depending on “how you look at it,” moderate distortion of the visual field, strong rims, the depth of hue certainly helps it settle into the glass. The nose has developed a mild lactose, milk touch, otherwise it’s mainly tangerine zest, orange blossom, honeysuckle, molasses and pear, peach, apricot fruit, doesn’t feel too dense nor concentrated in your nostrils but it doesn’t move around much. Full-bodied, here the acidity adds the needed brawn to get it percolating and relieve the sweetness of the brown sugar, honey, vanilla and cinnamon spice. The dry and tacky mouth texture checks the sweetness of the apricot, pineapple, peach, pear, persimmon fruit. Pie crust and general doughiness appear through the finish, falls short of milkiness. Big, at times maybe a little clumsy, but enthusiastic and hard not to enjoy. 30% Viognier, 30% Chardonnay, 30% Petit Manseng, 10% Muscat, Marsanne, Roussanne, etc. 89 points
Weinbach, Domaine
Alsace, France
Cuvée Laurence
Pinot Gris
2001
$48.99
14.0%
Very matured bronze color, has richness but not a lot of shine nor glow, hue lasts into the rims, looks aged but not tired. Mint, sweet herbs, orange marmalade, pressed flowers, the nose mainly activated by pineapple, papaya, peach, apricot fruit, has a poached character but with zip too, there is a certain milkiness to it, sticks to your nostril hairs like glue, you have to pick it off, fully matured here. In the mouth it is full-bodied, fat and just short of sluggish, the latter due mostly to the average acidity. Loaded with flavors, orange, pink grapefruit citrus, cinnamon and clove spice, honey, mint, milk, rose petals, lanolin, beautifully accepting of itself and whatever flaws it has acquired along with wisdom. And can still create some pucker at the finish. Sort of dried fruit character to the apricot, peach, pineapple, mango, guava fruit flavors, on the tropical side. Not going to last much longer but just fine right now. 91 points
Petit Chambord (François Cazin), Le
Loire, France
Cour-Cheverny
Cuvée Renaissance
Romorantin
2008
$22.99
12.5%
Somewhat flat golden color appearance, mild distortion of vision and the rims fill out adequately, nothing to write home about here. With tangerine, white grapefruit, pineapple, papaya and nectarine scents, it pushes angularly into the nostrils, there is a softening from powdered sugar and mint accents, this further accentuated by a lactose component, conversely has good stoniness and smokiness too, not the sharpest edge but does not need to be. Medium-bodied, the acidity comes off as aggressive given the round fleshiness of the flavors, like it really wants to prove a point. Still, there’s ample fun in the sweet and sour pink grapefruit, lime, tangerine citrus, mint, and tea leaf. The pineapple, nectarine, peach, quince, green apple fruit is tangy and long. Again, the levels of stone and milk just about cancel each other out. Soft finish, really kneads into the palate though. A happy wine in a happy place. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2013
Lingenfelder, Weingut H&R
Pfalz, Germany
Freinsheimer
Goldberg
Spätlese AP #14
Riesling
2001
$23.99
10.5%
Very deep and glassy amber color, close to transparent but block like and solid in appearance, rims full as well, obviously aged based on hue but bright and lively in the glass. The nose is full of poached apricot and peach fruit, honey, candied oranges and a fat petrol dimension, uncooked pie dough and mint, full presence and you’d think a first cloying but manages to handle its heft well. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied plus and the acidity does not too much to slow down the tropical fruit juggernaut of pineapple, papaya, nectarine, kiwi fruit. Pink grapefruit and tangerine fill in some blanks. The rubber, honey, lanolin, beeswax get blended into the whole well. Dries up some and finds better posture through the finish. While not stupendous it has vibrancy and a mature profile and isn’t in danger of dying off soon. 89 points
Three Hills
Western Australia, Australia
Margaret River
Charles Andreas
Blend
1999
$29.99
14.5%
No cloudiness nor sign of meaningful sediment, the core is an opaque pure purple hue, the rims a burnt crimson to rust red, looks like it has some age on it but not “advanced” per se. There’s a big amount of cedar in the nose, then forest matter, pine, orange peel, chocolate powder and some meat fat dripping on the grill, the plum, cherry, blackberry scents are heavy but not necessarily flamboyantly juicy, overall there’s a tightness to it. Full-bodied, has more volume than flow and tends to gum up and just stop. At this stage still no lack of cherry, black currant, plum fruit, however, it does have an artificial character to it. Floral, not a lot of oak present to be fair, some cocoa or malt. The cedar and orange peel recede back some. Some soy, salt notes and perhaps stewed tomatoes but no real glaring flaws. The fruit lasts through the finish, in the final analysis just wish there was some meaningful development to warrant the cellar time. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22.5% Merlot, 22.5% Cabernet Franc, trace amounts of Malbec, Petit Verdot. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2013
Mascarello, Bartolo
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Nebbiolo
1993
$71.99
13.0%
Some purple left in the core, semi-opaque, clearer around the brick red to clay hued rims, nice burnt quality, looking both aged and vigorous. The nose is all tea leaf, sandalwood, dried rose petals, cedar, soy and candied raspberries, maraschino cherries, has a steady and subtle lift, light mocha dusting, still on the primary side, pungent and clings to your nostril pores. Medium-bodied, smooth as the tannin and acidity more percolate than shout. The plum, cherry, blackberry fruit is sweet but the savoriness of the cedar, incense, orange pekoe tea and leather wins the day. Here too you feel it remains primary while developed enough to raise the suspicion of more to come. May not have the structure to keep the fruit alive if you wait. Seductive now. 92 points
Bea, Azienda Agricola Paolo
Umbria, Italy
Montefalco
Vigna San Valentino
Rosso
Blend
2001
$37.99
13.2%
It is cloudy and close to opaque with a luminescent orange to brick red color, in the sunset coloration vein, full rims, displays a very fine sediment in the liquid. In the nose you get juicy raspberry, strawberry, cherry fruit, straw, mint leaf, lemon peel and a moderate pickle brine, even blending in leather, cowhide, and damp brown earth comes across as on the simple side. Medium-bodied, tangy and zesty, leafy with a good deal of savory herbs. Leather, minerally earthiness, lots of acidity (almost too much) and really tart on the whole. Has adequate length and an acceptable array of mixed red fruits. Yet something is not quite right here. 70% Sangiovese, 15% Montepulciano, 15% Sagrantino. 88 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile
Riesling
1995
$35.00
12.5%
Getting into amber territory in the otherwise deep golden core, hue holds well through the rims, adequate clarity, sits solidly in the glass. Flat, squarish nose with a mixture of rubber, dried honey and herbs upfront, gets close to diesel at times, stone, apricot and peach cobbler, on the neutral side if more expressive when warmed. Medium-bodied, develops dough, bread, ginger, lemon peel and lower lime, big rubber component. Dry and semi-tacky mouth feel, the acidity helps make up for the lackluster apricot, peach, apple fruit. The stone and streamwater component decently refreshing. The dough comes back big through the finish. Steady but not spectacular, likely at the back end of optimal drinking plateau. 89 points
Egly-Ouriet
Champagne, France
Grand Cru Millésimé Brut
Blend
1996
$68.99
12.5%
Mildly darkened golden color with modest beads of decent activity. Doughy nose, lemon, touch of honey, poached apricot to peach scents, more penetrating than expected and while bready also has decent purity. Medium-bodied, the pétillance is very fine now. Quite lemony here too, salty and savory with touches or brioche and grilled nuts. The apricot, peach, nectarine fruit is on the dry side, not that juicy, but has intense penetration. Acidity still crazy strong. Smoky with increasing saline which outdistances the honey element. Finishes with a light yet vibrant touch, ready now so pop it open if you are holding. 90% Pinot Noir, remainder Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier. (RM-21723-02, disgorged Juillet 2004 (85 months)) (Composite Cork) 89 points
Huet, S.A.
Loire, France
Vouvray
Clos du Bourg
Demi-Sec
Chenin Blanc
1995
$29.99
12.5%
Just mildly darkening gold hue and remains bright with a reflective surface and only mild loss along the rims. Has a smoky nose with flint and wet minerals, sauna stones, fried lemon peel, dried honey, lanolin, vaguely dried fruit aspect to the apricot, peach, pineapple scents, the smokiness takes up more space as it warms. Full-bodied, the acidity has sufficient kick to slice the flesh off the bones. Oily, rubbery and minerally with wet smoke and more lanolin, the florality lost a bit. The ripe peach, apricot, nectarine, persimmon fruit lasts fully through the finish. Orange glaze, grapefruit, dried herbs and smoke, smoke and more smoke. Has a certain matured quality but given the state of the acidity and depth of fruit, appears squarely in its middle age. 92 points
Hirsch, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Zöbinger
Gaisberg
Alte Reben
Riesling
1999
$29.99
13.0%
Darkened gold color, perhaps a touch dull but likely it was always that way, some green flecks left, attractive enough without much sparkle. The nose is fresh with some rubber accents, builds on a foundation of apricot, peach, nectarine fruit, more flower water than citrus, overall it has a very relaxed and soft presence which compensates for the lack of richness. Full-bodied, here the apple, pear, apricot fruit is denser and with more bite. The acidity is pretty good, seems to leave behind a tacky residue. In turn the lime and then lemon and grapefruit citrus much stronger in the mouth as well. Offers more chalk and limestone than cutting minerality. Adroitly blends in a vanilla, cream component. That rubber aspect holds off to the end then creates a big perfume. Lively ending, no complaints here. 90 points
Ganevat, Domaine Jean-François
Jura, France
Côtes du Jura
Cuvée Julien
Pinot Noir
2009
$49.99
12.5%
More a ruby to cranberry red throughout than violet hue, consistent with deep rims, transparent but not light, attractive in a confidently subdued manner. The nose has a curious amount of coconut, vanilla and butterscotch to it, this helps maintain the candied sweetness of the cherry, cranberry, red raspberry fruit scents, little bit of pickle brine to counter the sweetness, damp brown earth, orange citrus, the lift is too aggressive for it to come together as a thematized whole. Medium-bodied, has a somewhat heavy bottom and the acidity and tannin is average at best and not really capable of putting a charge in things. Snappy and ripe red cherry, raspberry, strawberry, apricot fruit, the acidity helps this element. Mixed citrus, not absent but muffled in a vague way. It’s stony and has structure behind the makeup of coconut, vanilla bean and cocoa. Really leaves you not sure what to make of it, does it want to be “new world” or dress itself up, while hewing to tradition, and allow the years to bring it together. Right now it seems mildly disjointed and unsure just of whom it wants to appeal. 88 points
Cayron, Domaine du
Rhône, France
Gigondas
Blend
2001
$27.99
14.0%
Brick red influence in the dusky and opaque purple core, dense crimson red rims with a throbbing glow to it, dark but not crafted for visual impact. The nose has a reductive side with mud, merde, peanut shells, then beef jerky too, the plum, black currant fruit is heavy yet not expressive, likewise the flowers and chocolate notes just hang in the air without movement, orange peels and rubbing alcohol, it does betray some alcoholic fumes. Full-bodied, velvety and soft in a fat way, nothing delicate about it. Herbs, anise, orange pekoe tea, flowers and stones give it an uneven sweet versus savory presentation. The golden raisin, fig to then plum, cherry, blackberry fruit likewise does not choose a definitive direction. Good amount of mocha, chocolate powder. Tannin is decent, acidity on the weak side, has more weight than structure. Not particularly developed while concurrently the primary fruit hasn’t done much other than congeal. Not showing signs of a beautiful swan emerging anytime soon. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre. 87 points
Haag, Weingut Fritz
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr
Spätlese AP #7
Riesling
1999
$29.99
7.5%
Very lightly hued green straw color, about as transparent as fresh water, hueless rims, a few trace bubbles hug the inside of the glass long after the pour. The nose is perhaps a little too openly knit, vanilla pudding, rubber, orange blossom, mint, peach skin fuzz, pie crust flakes, not much by way of stone or minerals, just a gentle, quiet experience. Medium-bodied, not all that much acidity going on, clean for sure but comes across as a bit hollow. The lemon, orange citrus perhaps the sweetest aspect, the peach, apricot, pear fruit is nothing especially powerful. The vanilla and whipped cream element helps fill it out. As it warms you get more pineapple and nectarine notes. Remains tactful to the end, even if weakens some by that point. If this bottle is representative, likely waited too long to pop the cork. 87 points
Riggs, Mr.
Regional Blend, Australia
Shiraz Viognier
Blend
2003
$52.99
14.5%
Achieves opacity in the purple core, broad brick to clay red rims, heavy set, not much visible to suggest its age. Velvety thick and perfumed nose of plum/prune, blackberry, molasses, eucalyptus, flowers and orange pulp, the oak is very dialed back with moderate caramel and vanilla tones, just slowly expands and grows, soft persistence. Full-bodied, push and full of floral dew with orange sherbet. Here there is major oak cream with caramel, butterscotch, molasses, mesquite grill smoke, and then a little vanilla/chocolate swirl. Sour tang to the Italian plum, cherry, blackberry, boysenberry fruit. Light lemon to grapefruit citrus, sweet and juicy. Somehow manages to be more refreshing than cloying so that in the end it is more intelligently gregarious than stupidly ingratiating. 95% Shiraz, 5% Viognier. 60% Angas Vineyard (Langhorne Creek), 40% Piebald Gully Vineyard (McLaren Vale). 91 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
2001
$40.00
14.2%
From the dark purple core grows an interesting brick red hue with a brown clay edge, the rims are dull crimson, while not vivid has excellent cleanliness. The nose is all cedar, incense, mint, menthol, hay, has an oak element of vanilla, butterscotch and much bigger plum, black cherry, blackberry scents, close to overripe at times but in no way overblown. Medium-bodied, the tannins mostly resolved but add some grainy texture. Cedar, sandalwood, ginger, orange to lemon zest, pine, very similar overall to the nose. Plummy with some prune to the incredibly endowed blackberry, blueberry, cherry fruit. Savory herbs brighten the finish. Has developed, not in a Bordeaux-like fashion, but in a place which is pretty close to ideal. 76% Morisoli Vineyard, 16% Herb Lamb Vineyard, 8% Beckstoffer-To Kalon Vineyard. 92 points
Tahbilk
Victoria, Australia
Nagambie Lakes
Marsanne
1999
$14.99
12.5%
Very advanced color, almost fully amber orange in hue, average clarity and shine, the rims lose intensity, this accentuated by the darkness of the core. The nose is thick unto heavy with apricot paste, honey, baked pie crust, marzipan, grilled nuts, orange marmalade and some wet stone to petrol accents, draws you in and makes you comfy. Full-bodied, shifts gears a lot as it opens, at first it seems quite oaky with butterscotch, vanilla, crème brûlée and toffee flavorings then the acidity takes hold and it starts to emphasize zippy white grapefruit and orange citrus. The apricot, peach, quince fruit concentrated but not quite sweet enough for dried fruit. Nutty but nowhere near sherried. Mint, honey and rose water give it a pretty complexion. Gets more savory with each sip. Doesn’t quite blow you away but it certainly meets any expectations set at the outset of aging it. 89 points
Black Coyote
Napa Valley, California
Bates Creek Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
2001
$29.99
13.5%
Rich purple core, no real sediment showing, either in the liquid or on the bottle shoulder, etc., the rims definitely display brick red to burnt sunset red hues yet, overall, doesn’t come across as a wine its age. The nose is dominated by thick, syrupy plum, cassis, cherry fruit scents, allows room for cedar, saddle soap, tobacco leaf and bell pepper, not a lot of sweeter oak to interfere, what’s there is more neutral toast, a nice straightforward Cabernet experience. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and thick still, has hardly shed any weight since its youth. The tannin buried under that plum, blackberry, cherry fruit, sweeter during the attack as it dries up sufficiently to create a punctuated finish. Cedar, tobacco and orange pekoe tea, some savory herbs and stone chunks too. While drinking quite well now suggests further upside, arguably delivers beyond expectations. 90 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Arroyo Grande Valley, California
Les Galets Vineyard
Syrah
2005
$36.00
15.4%
Very dark and fully opaque purple core, still has some glow to it, hint of ruby left in the otherwise scarlet to brick red rims, moderately advanced visually speaking. The nose betrays volatile acidity, somewhat gamey with burnt bacon notes, then olive pits, grass, violets, milk chocolate, the plum, currant fruit scents are hard to really get at, tends to hum in your nostrils like a big air conditioning unit working overtime in August. Full-bodied, velvety smooth, much oakier here in the mouth with chocolate, caramel tones and some peanut shell to reinforce the presence of volatility. The natural acidity does give it some freshness and vivacity, highlighting red currant, cherry, cranberry fruit. Noticeably large orange to lemon citrus component. Then there’s some minerally, earthy undertones like a back road dustiness. Turns dried through the finish, more tangy and leathery. Kinda past its prime. 85 points
Caminade, Château La
Southwest France, France
Cahors
La Commandery
Malbec
2001
$15.99
13.5%
Very dark and glowing purple core, opaque in a clean, bright manner, the rims are thin but a lively red magenta, some bricking beginning. The nose is spice with still a good bit of oak showing, ginger, caramel, cedar, incense, powdered vanilla and chocolate, orange blossom, the plum, black cherry scents are formidably rich and behind that and the oak is a sizable amount of bell pepper and mineral dust, you can it has lost heft but remains big in scale. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, full mix and sweet and tangy. The tannin has been shaved down to, if not smoothness, an acceptably fine grittiness. The plum, currant, cherry fruit ever more dominant here, pushes the oak toast, vanilla, hard butterscotch candy a few feet back. Tobacco leaf, tar, cedar, bell pepper and stone imbue it with satisfactory “country wine” character. Has a monolithic bearing, thought I might have waited too long but this likely has a decade yet before showing its best. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2013
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Monte Bello
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$120.99
13.4%
Deep purple core, filmy with some sediment adding to its opacity, the rims are a dense brick red to rust in coloration, has a matured look to it for sure. Especially when first opened the oak dominates the nose, coconut, buttered toast, cocoa dust, mint, licorice, wet cedar, pulped oranges, dried pressed flowers, the plum, currant fruit scents are fairly lowkey, overall more savory than sweet. Medium-bodied, here too it emphasizes oak with coconut, mocha, vanilla powder, butterscotch and then cedar. Moderate does of flowers, orange zest and menthol. The cherry, currant fruit is slowly drying out but holds the core together. Has a few earthy, meadowy brush characteristics, a metallic minerally edge through the finish. Applies makeup to optimal effect. At its worst better than many other’s best. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Sociando-Mallet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Haut-Médoc
Blend
1997
$29.50
12.5%
Enough purple in the core to achieve opacity, heavy crimson to brick red rims, touch of orange rust, strongly hued rims. The nose seems very traditional, bell pepper, leather, sandalwood incense, cured beef, minerals, tar, grapefruit pith, even at this point there’s very ripe plum, black currant and cherry fruit, takes some time but really opens up and puts on weight in the nostrils. Full-bodied, the tannin still kicking up a storm yet allows the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit to maintain a consistent presence start to finish. Offers grapefruit, minerals, incense, leather, cedar, iodine and back pepper, not as herbaceous as in the nose. The more you sip it the more you get a fluffy wildflower nuance. Performing very well and, candidly, above expectations going in. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. 90 points
Selbach-Oster, Weingut
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Zeltinger
Sonnenuhr
Auslese AP #18
Riesling
2001
$22.99
7.5%
Mild greenish cast to the yellow gold base, good richness and remains youthful, about average shine. extremely sweet nose of pear, green melon, apple to apricot fruit, close to poached in nature, honey, candied oranges, pink grapefruit, milk and vanilla cream, mint, unevolved with minimal rubber or diesel notes. In the mouth it is full-bodied, sweet and sugary yet thankfully has the acidity to match this. That said, loads up on coconut, honey, vanilla, molasses, graham cracker flavors, loads and loads of pink grapefruit, tangerine, lime citrus. With pineapple, guava, apricot, peach, pear, nectarine, cherry you receive the full spectrum of a fruit cocktail. Little stone, mineral water, all fruit and citrus. Crafts a bright finish due to that acidity. 90 points
Jost, Weingut Toni
Mittelrhein, Germany
Bacharacher
Hahn
Spätlese AP #7
Riesling
2001
$23.99
9.5%
Darkening orange-amber in color, blows right by being gold, okay shine, given the depth at the core the rims are relatively hueless, interesting coloration. Semi-spicy nose, good amount of stone and mineral dust, floral, mixes in white grapefruit to lemon citrus and hard rubber to the nectarine, peach, green apple fruit, not quite keenly penetrating but has thrust into the nostrils. Medium-bodied, has minimal extra flesh. Zesty white to pink grapefruit, lime frames the mouth entry. Slowly revs up kiwi, pineapple, nectarine, passion fruit. The acidity is so-so but gets the job done well enough. Gains volume from molasses, honey, vanilla fudge, maybe even butterscotch accents. There’s a touch of slate and chalk buried under the fruit and citrus. Seems “evolving” not evolved, yet not sure what additional there is to expect down the road. 89 points
Corbineau, Patrick
Loire, France
Touraine
Cabernet Franc
1999
$34.99
13.0%
Reddish crimson core, minimal purple, has moderate clarity, the hue trails off some at the rims, semi-dilute. The nose is funky and emphasizes leather, wet animal hide, merde, very light cherry to red berry scents, has a pleasing herbal lift, in general possesses more presence and staying power than at first expected. Medium-bodied, gauging by its weight and volume it’s nearing the end of its best plateau, the acidity and tannin trump the red cherry, blackberry, cranberry fruit. Piercing white grapefruit to lemon citrus, dried pith. Very low remnant of oak, if any. White pepper and bell pepper get into the mix with dried grass, stones and mineral dust. As opposed to the nose here has that sweeter core but living on borrowed time. Drink up while it has gentility yet. 88 points
Banneret, Domaine du
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
2001
$27.99
14.0%
Rust to blood red hued core, not a lot of violet there, just nudges into opaque ground, the rims have some red yet overall more orange to yellow, decent clarity. Delivers a little merde, mud, saddle soap on the nose, crushed lemons, anise, lemongrass, stone, no lack of cherry to blackberry fruit which is supported by garrigues led wildflowers, conversely at times it toughens into olive pits and brine accents. Medium-bodied, holds its weight fully through the finish. Here it is a simpler, streamlined affair of stone, mineral, olive, biting white grapefruit to lemon citrus, leather and animal fur. The caramel, vanilla, butterscotch mostly present during the attack, yields the spotlight to the well maintained raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit. The acidity is bright and penetrating, the tannin about average. Overall, has great cut and moves crisply with youthful purity, its structure should keep it kicking for years to come. Mainly Grenache, remainder Mourvèdre. 90 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Réserve Personnelle
Pinot Gris
1998
$28.99
13.0%
Quite deepened golden color verging on amber, clean yet likewise too layered for full transparency, holds that rich hue through the rims. The nose is honeyed with accents of orange peel, lanolin, mint leaf, raw pie crust dough, sauna smoke and a firm of fleshy array of apricot, pear, apple to light pineapple, also displays a light milky quality. Full-bodied and clingy, feels like New England clam chowder but there is a little kick of acidity now and then. Sweet and dense, packs in the pink grapefruit, tangelo citrus, flowers, brown sugar, mint, buttered croissants and even at times cocoa notes. The doughiness teases out some nuttiness as well. Persimmon, pineapple, yellow apple, apricot and white peach keep it juicy but it always ends with a tangy snap. Has maybe lost quickness in that first step driving to the hole, possesses relaxed complexity and no obvious need to impress. 91 points
Gaja, Angelo
Tuscany, Italy
Pieve Santa Restituta Promis
Blend
1999
$36.99
13.0%
Deep red-ruby, while dark has nice clarity, blood red rims, looks aging but not tired. Sweetly overripe nose of cherry, blackberry fruit, menthol, matted grasses, dried leather, mocha, has a touch of lemon peel, flirts with too much overripeness and all over the map scent-wise, not not-developed but not showing significant tertiary development either. Full-bodied, thickly layered with plum, cherry, cassis fruit, short of prune but in the general area. Straw, sandalwood incense, leather, spiced orange, flowers and then more pink to white grapefruit and tangerine. The acidity really comes through and to a degree strips away the caramel, toffee, coffee notes. You get some stone and salt on the finish. Modern, savory at times, with almost unexpected bite. Take it on its own terms. 90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 89 points
Fogline Vineyards
Russian River Valley, California
Floodgate Vineyard
Pinot Noir
2010
$38.00
14.5%
Red-ruby to light violet in hue, a little bit more pure ruby near the rims, transparent throughout, very light sign of orange at the outer rims. The nose settles in with butterscotch and caramel, candied oranges, sour touch to the cherry, boysenberry fruit scents then thyme and pickle brine notes, has more fatness than airy lift. luckily the fruit outlasts most else. Full-bodied, flows well with a certain textural graininess, has more tannin than acidity but not by much. There’s some green apple in the raspberry, rhubarb, cranberry, strawberry fruit, sweet but then definitely sour by the end. This tightening brings out more white grapefruit to lemon than juicy orange citrus. Has balance and while blunt, pushes forward with eager energy. 89 points
Grange des Pères, Domaine de La
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault
Blend
2000
$53.99
13.5%
Strong red to orange bricking throughout, decent amount of purple left in the core, the rims are clear and shiny which contrasts with the aged nature of the color, close to transparent even at that core, the contrasting hues really hold your gaze. There’s a taut barnyard to animal nature to the nose, muddy earth, wet leather and fur, fallen autumnal leaves and bark, still the core of fruit is a sweetly roasted cherry, plum, cassis which has plenty of thrust and then some to spare, spiced oranges, mint and tea leaf pretty it up even as it veers back into iodine notes. Full-bodied with a clingy, sappy texture, glues itself to your mouth pores. This in no way diminishes the cutting acidity and broad shouldered tannin, has the structure to match the massiveness of the smoky plum, cherry, blackberry, boysenberry fruit. White grapefruit notes add tang and here too you get leather, horse hide and animal fur in spades. Non-mineral metallic notes are there and may distract some. In the end almost more savory than sweet, your lips and tongue feel roughed up. Just a puppy still. Unspecified percentages of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre. 93 points
Quintarelli, Giuseppe
Veneto, Italy
Rosso del Bepi
Blend
1996
$104.99
15.0%
Slight duskiness to the crimson purple core, opaque, switches to red clay to rust hued rims, full of strength throughout, a defiant old man. The nose conjures out menthol, sage and sweet herbs, chocolate, cinnamon and ginger, raisin, cassis and blackberry fruit, some dusty stone and earth, dried orange and grapefruit peels, has a lot of fullness in your nostrils, in a muscular fashion. In the mouth it is full-bodied, on the dry side but sweetness remains in the raisin, date, cherry, blackberry, raspberry liqueur flavors, especially with chocolate and caramel notes added. Also has a noticeable savory side with herbs, leather, stone, blood iron. The orange and grapefruit citrus does not choose sides. Not much discernible acidity nor tannin yet firm enough, opens well and does not lose power thereafter. If Amarone can be a food wine, this is probably it. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara. 91 points
Merkelbach, Weingut Alfred
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Erdener
Treppchen
Auslese AP #10
Riesling
2001
$15.99
8.5%
Young looking, plenty of green tint in the yellow gold base, transparent, minimal hue left in the rims. The nose is a bowl of lime, lemon citrus, flowers, cotton candy, mango, nectarine, pineapple fruit, less on the wet stone and rubber, has solid lift and a dewy perfume both. Medium-bodied, has lost some baby fat, still the acidity is sluggish at best which keeps it round and soft in the mouth. You get elevated rubber, diesel notes here, helps it dry out and reins in the sweetness in the pineapple, guava, nectarine, dried apricot fruit. Loads of pink grapefruit, tangerine flavor, sweet but gets tangy by the end. Not getting much sense of terroir, just a fun and fruity Riesling. 88 points
Saumades, Domaine des
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Grenache
2000
$28.99
14.5%
Some ruby-purple in the core then turns to a red rust hue, on the clear side but not transparent, basic crimson rims, decent youthfulness. The nose is almost grapey with relaxed raspberry, golden raisin, raspberry scents, some cocoa and honey yet somehow not that “sugary” really, some woolliness and garden herbs, dense and not that expressive, more of a slug to the jaw. Medium-bodied, good fleshiness, covers the palate like a blanket. Structured without anything standing out about the acid or tannin. Mixes together elements of orange, lemon citrus, cocoa to milk chocolate, fennel, basil and savory herbs, garrigues like florality. The cherry, blackberry fruit close to plum but not there. Still young and mostly unevolved, very smooth given its weight with a restrained sweetness, apparently nowhere near peak. 91 points
Kerpen, Weingut Heribert
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Bernkasteler
Bratenhöfchen
Spätlese AP #7
Riesling
2001
$16.99
8.0%
Rich golden color, not quite bronzed, the rims are transparent, decent shine but nothing special to look at. The nose has a crazy amount of lactose to it, milk and cream all over the place, even the orange scents are creamy, fatness continues with poached peach and apricot fruit, powdered sugar and molasses nuances, opens up nicely over time but never loses that extra weight. Full-bodied, soft and gentle mouth presence, low acidity, sweet and sunny, all juicy orange, lime, grapefruit citrus and kiwi, apricot, pear fruit. Has some stone dust and does lose a lot of the milky qualities here. Flat and fleshy, needs more cut to impress, fresh without verve. The rubber comes through mostly retronasally. 88 points
Müller-Catoir, Weingut
Pfalz, Germany
Haardter
Bürgergarten
Spätlese Trocken AP #1
Riesling
1999
$39.99
12.5%
Still has some green glint left but maturing into a deeper golden hue, very shiny overall, nothing tired looking about it. The nose is full of rubber, this supplemented by a light milkiness and then salinity, credible amount of both tangerine to pink grapefruit citrus and nectarine, pineapple, apricot, green apple scents, decent penetration into your nostrils. Medium-bodied, has some acidity but not really that dry, just not “sweet” per se. Semi-tropical feel in the pineapple, guava, mango and then dried apricot, peach, pear fruit. Notes of coconut, vanilla and condensed milk help it stay round and full. The tangerine, orange, pink grapefruit citrus is tangy but this element is also the wine’s sweetest part and the one which lasts the longest. 89 points
Olivares, Bodegas
Jumilla, Spain
Dulce Monastrell
Monastrell
1998
$24.99
16.0%
Opaque black purple core, hard to tell if there’s any floaties about but there sure is a lot of crud on the cork bottom, when it finally relents and lets the rims appear, it’s a burnt sunset to crimson red, not quite orange, port-like appearance. The nose is dense, heavy and defines surmaturité, while there’s a very odd plastic note in there, ignoring that there’s plum/prune, date, cherry, raisin scents, orange spice, chocolate, baked Easter ham, honey, ginger, it’s not quite leafy nor herbaceous but something there disrupts the fruity goodness. Full-bodied, starts to layer itself on the tongue but stops short of real thickness. The cinnamon, nutmeg, milk chocolate and orange peel quickly team up with the prune, raisin, date to cherry, blackberry, apricot fruit, sweet but not a sugar fest. Nothing close to an acidic nor tannic presence, not really needed. Has tang and allows the citrus and spice to perk things up. Has that meaty, butcher shop scraps, jumbled up quality, more an environment than distinct component. In no danger of losing its power. 500 ml bottle. 91 points
Wendouree
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Shiraz
1991
$65.00
13.5%
Clear and close to transparent in spite of the core being as much black as any purple, the very broad rims feature rust red to orange, brick and clay hues, certainly looks like an older wine but in no way a tired wine. At first the nose is almost all eucalyptus, then it unwinds into grill smoke, tar, honeyed ham, dried leaves and orange peels, the fruit is taut red currant, elderberry, cherry, finishes with pine sap and sage led herb notes. Medium-bodied, has clearly lost weight, however, has enough remaining tannic structure to give it a sturdy bearing and kind of older Clint Eastwood ruggedness. The cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit has a candied to liqueur sweetness, more hard and concentrated than soft and juicy. Orange citrus, anise, eucalyptus, molasses glaze, dried beef, while it is still mainly about the fruit, there’s plenty else going on. Savory with bay leaf, sage, thyme notes and earth, sandalwood and pine nuances. Settles into itself with more air time but does not develop more. Drinking fine yet at the back end of its optimal plateau, delivers on expectations. 92 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2013
Elyse
Napa Valley, California
Rutherford
Petite Sirah
2003
$34.99
15.2%
Throwing huge chunks of sediment, the cork bottom looked like crystals were growing out of it, impenetrably opaque purple core, thin but heavyset ruby-magenta rims with just enough crimson to suggest any aging whatsoever. The nose does have a good amount of mud, wet bark, fart and merde to it, yet this gets steamrolled by caramel, butterscotch, coconut custard, violets and layers and layers of plum, black cherry, blackberry and light prune fruit, youthfully unevolved and showing no signs of any desire to transform into anything not present the day it was bottled. Full-bodied, quite creamy and smooth in texture even as it shows the tannin still has some pop. Violets, orange blossom and mint give it a pretty side denied most of its peer group, the coconut and caramel fit in well with the whole. Of course, super-loaded with plum, blueberry, cherry fruit, sweet and sugary. Carries its weight fully through the finish. With time develops a mesquite, sweet barbecue sauce nuance. A warm your tummy, happy kind of wine, keeps you gulping until you hit the crud at the bottom of the bottle. 91 points
Montus (Alain Brumont), Château
Southwest France, France
Madiran
Tannat
1996
$24.99
12.5%
The liquid is clear, no sign of sediment, clean shoulder, the core is a blackish red, minimal purple in there, the rims a orange to red rust or clay coloration, looks older but plenty of brightness in the glass still. The nose is all tar, leather, cured beef, iodine, backroads dirt and wet cedar, roasted quality to the cherry, currant fruit gives it a smoky lift, has a masculine pungency to it. Full-bodied, has likely lost some weight but still a bruiser, hammers its way into the mouth. The tannin has subsided a great deal which leaves the acidity in the fore and adding a great sour bite to the cranberry, cherry, blackberry fruit. That salt, iodine, tar, black tea leaf, mud, horsehide all in effect, has a certain volatility, but the kind this taster enjoys. Cedar, incense, spiced orange peel and then more dried blood notes. The fruit has held up remarkably well, more savory than sweet, lasts fully to the very end. More wines should be like this. 91 points
Phelps, Joseph
Napa Valley, California
Syrah
1999
$75.00
14.2%
Black purple core, fully opaque, thick crimson rims with a serious density to the overall color, looks older but not “aged” per se. The nose has an earthy, muddy aspect to it, fluffy, cottony florality, sharper orange citrus, then chocolate, the plum/prune, cherry scents are rich but simple and concentrated, manages to stay more focused than diffuse, more energy than expected. Full-boded and close to syrupy thick, good amount of blackberry, cherry fruit to pair with molasses, maple syrup to more tangy barbecue sauce notes. Low tannin but not flabby and hits a decent pace through the mouth, if chunky at times. Low level of orange citrus, flowers, mint. Life left in it, balanced for the most part, not especially interesting but you could say it is nondescript in the best way. 1.5 liter bottle. 88 points
Chave, Jean-Louis
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Syrah
1991
$59.99
13.0%
Dull blackish core, the rims an equally aged yellow to red, does not appear to be throwing much sediment yet still has a brackish appearance. The nose is all but fully resolved and loaded with tertiary aspects, leather, wet fallen leaves, tar, minerals, green olives, sour oranges, as well as generously soft cherry and blackberry fruit scents, pulls it together for good length. Medium-bodied and smooth, you easily sense the tannin has been burred down and woven into the whole. Brings out orange/lemon citrus, minerals, wet grass, animal fur, olive, garrigues, leather to horsehide, and then molasses, manages to knit these all into a fluid and coherent whole. The acidity has kick and keeps the citrus alive. Has length, gently sinewy, nowhere else for it to go but here, a lot of pleasure still to be had beyond serious intellectual engagement. 91 points
Cristom
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Eola-Amity Hills
Syrah
2008
$30.00
13.5%
Pure black core, no duskiness, thick ruby-red to scarlet rims, excellent vibrancy of hue. The nose is seriously all about white pepper, hard to get past it, then offers white grapefruit, moderate florality and lean, jaunty red fruits, more fresh than sweet, has an angular feel, a restrained liveliness in your nostrils. Medium-bodied, excellent penetrating power, again with the white pepper. Also has an herbaceous snap with bell pepper, the acidity keeps it lively and gives it pep to move forward. The lemon, white grapefruit citrus is bright and zesty. Likewise the cranberry, boysenberry, cherry fruit has good erectness, even the flowers seem hard edged. Little oak presence, some dill influence. Keeps kicking up a good dust in its wake. 90 points
Greenock Creek
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Seven Acre
Shiraz
2001
$85.00
14.5%
Reddish black core, opaque, heavy crimson to blood red rims, seriously saturated or saturated unto seriousness. The nose is smoky and sweet with sugary, jammy raspberry, boysenberry, blackberry fruit scents, like syrup at iHop, grilled meats and dripping fat, flowers, interesting yet not that developed and shies away when you want it to move closer. Full-bodied, equally sweet and smoky here with molasses, honey accents, braised meats, strangely high level of apricot and green apple next to the more predictable cherry, blackberry fruit. As it often the case with such wines, its density and mass holds it together as it is lacking in perceptible acidity or tannin. Orange marmalade, ginger, nutmeg. Rich and presses down on the tongue, shows no burn or evidence of alcoholic heat.
89 points
Westerhold Family Vineyards
Bennett Valley, California
Syrah
2008
$42.00
16.5%
Perfectly black opaque core, razor thin ruby rims, impressive to gaze upon, and made to be that way. Massively constructed nose of jammy blackberry, black cherry, blueberry fruit, quite ripe with brown sugar, candied orange and flower water notes, some peanut butter but not much merde, blockish and lacking in flow. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and big enough to lurch side to side, oodles of vanilla, caramel, butterscotch, roasted coffee, then all those layers of cassis, blackberry, blueberry fruit. Nothing in there in terms of meaningful acidity or tannin. Same basic array of flowers, orange spice, cinnamon, gingerbread, built to hit you into submission and delivers on its promise. No subtlety nor complexity, in the category of “just the fruit and oak ma’am,” acceptable but fatigues the palate quickly. 88 points
Torbreck
South Australia
Barossa Valley, Australia
RunRig
Shiraz
2005
$225.00
14.5%
Dark purple, the core is opaque, dense crimson rims, lots of color to it, clean, looks “serious.” Heavy dew to the nose, bursting with plum, blueberry, cassis, raisin, prune, thick and sugary, maple syrup, molasses, potpourri, really sticks like glue to your nostrils, over the top and knows it, just doesn’t care, keeps piling on layers of fruit. Full-bodied, has some zesty pepper and white grapefruit yet still all about the caramel, molasses, butterscotch flavors. Actually surprises you with decent acidity and tannin, they make a big statement and then are gone. Here too it’s relentlessly sweet with emphasis on blueberry, boysenberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit and molasses, bombastically big. It does move but at a steady, glacial pace. Shows no sign of developing into something truly different so take advantage now. 95% Shiraz, 5% Viognier. 90 points
Dehlinger
Russian River Valley, California
Syrah
2002
$39.00
14.9%
Extremely dark black purple core, immaculate but not massively opaque, glows throughout, has garnet red rims, the outer edges only partly showing any age. The nose is high toned and lacking forceful expression, matter of factly gives you salt, stone, earth, grapefruit pith, even the fruit is light, this being plum, currant, cherry, apple scents, coughs up a few taut gamey notes. Medium-bodied, nicely fluid and relatively smooth, flowers, chocolate, peanuts, violets and an orange to lemon citric tang. Uses its weight well to spread across the palate, leaving in its wake fried butter and caramel. Able to tighten up and shift on a dime on you. The blueberry, blackberry, cherry fruit is sweet and longlasting. Infectiously fun after a sip or two. 90 points
Paloma
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Syrah
2003
$44.99
14.8%
Deep purple core, close to opaque, burnt red rims, some ruby left there but more crimson for sure. There’s a funk to the nose, peanut and walnut shells before thick plum, cassis, cherry fruit scents, joined by white pepper, brown earth shades, not that evolved and remains primary, has a baked dessert feel to it. Full-bodied, a bit unbalanced but has enough fruit to fill in the gaps, this being plum, cherry, blackberry. Blends in lemon to white grapefruit citrus, mesquite smoke, meat fat, brown sugar, not one dimensional. The acidity is pretty good, not a lot of tannin there. Even with its tang and sour citric bite leans big on the fruit for effect. Minor presence of pressed flowers and some herbal qualities. Shifts randomly on you, hard to get it to sit still for more than a couple of seconds. 88 points
Poonawatta Estate
South Australia, Australia
Eden Valley
Shiraz
2003
$89.99
15.5%
Very dark purple core, semi-opaque, thick rust red to crimson rims, just starting to show some age. Delivers caramel, toffee, butterscotch, chocolate in the nose, florality lifts the plum, cherry, blackberry scents as the orange zest expands, it’s primary and oaky without being gratuitously so, whiff of rain soaked leather. Medium-bodied, good firmness and acidity, helps bring out grill smoke and mesquite, molasses notes to stand next to the butterscotch, peanut brittle. Likewise, teases out green apple alongside the cherry, raspberry, blackberry, raisin fruit. Very satiny, little tannin but stays erect and mostly structured. Suggestion of flowers and chocolate. While on the sweet side, in a fetching and attractive way, again more structure than most of its ilk as well as lack of flab, remains a thinking person’s guilty pleasure. 90 points
Chave, Jean-Louis
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Syrah
1997
$95.00
13.0%
Bright orange-red in color, burnt sunset look to it, very clear and close to transparent, shows some age but not too much. The nose has some fluffiness to it, wildflowers, cotton balls then a leathery funk, molasses and sweet grill smoke, bright cherry to blackberry scents, not penetrating per se but hangs around in your nostrils. Medium-bodied, erect posture, close to regal, the acidity is upfront and eager to be counted. Super sour bite to the cranberry, red cherry, blackberry fruit, its tang outdone by the minerality and olives. The white grapefruit, orange citrus likewise has strong bite. Has the minerals and stone to imbue it with a sense of terroir but almost too well bred and universally Syrah as to transcend place. Ends with a burst of caramel, brown sugar. Squarely in the middle of its drinking plateau, seems ageless at this point. 93 points
Edmunds St. John
Sonoma Valley, California
Durrell Vineyard
Syrah
1995
$24.99
14.4%
Lots of sediment makes it noticeably cloudy, the core is more black than purple, dark brick red rims, has a brooding look to it, obviously aged. Good deal of funk on the nose, leather, mud, iodine, smoke, crushed orange peels, dried cherries and berries, at this point in its life light of touch and slightly evanescent. Medium-bodied, aggressive with a slight volatility, lots of acidity, the tannin pugnaciously holding on, both of which though drag the cherry, blackberry fruit back to life, sour and snappy. Transparent in the sense that it thrusts it all out on center stage, flaws and all, regardless – orange/lemon citrus, beef jerky, saltlick, iodine, tapenade and olives, even the florality seems sharply heightened. Over time wins your respect, has energy left but this is the time, don’t push it. 89 points
Tablas Creek
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Panoplie
Blend
2002
$95.00
14.8%
Some purple left in the core, on the black side, solid brick red rims, admirable clarity but does look aged based on color. Sweet nose of cherry, raspberry jam, wildflowers, wool, brown earth, primary and plump, tends to hug into your nostrils. Full-bodied, dry and semi-tannic with robust sour cherry, cranberry, raspberry, blueberry fruit. While it has leather and cowhide components, not quite as “animally” here in the mouth. Fleshes things out with orange zest and violets. The acidity helps to lengthen the finish. Really builds steam as it moves through the mouth and “pretty” for its size. Could see this going more miles yet. 80% Mourvèdre, 13% Grenache, 7% Counoise. 92 points
Failla
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
2001
$38.00
13.5%
Cloudy blackish core, not a lot of purple left in it, red rust rims, light orange tinge as well. The nose is green olives, lavender, orange spice, wet animal fur, iron flecks and stone, the cherry and red currant fruit scents on the sour side. Medium-bodied, the acidity keeps it fresh while also takes some of the roasted qualities out of the cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit. Lots of white grapefruit to orange citrus, keeps its blade sharp. Floral with a tea leaf element. Produces stone, dried beef blood, leather, olive pits, has a definite metallic edge to it. Really gets in there and penetrates into the palate, great vigor for its age and on an admirable plateau. 92 points
Pépière, Domaine de la
Loire, France
Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie
Clos des Briords
Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Melon de Bourgogne
2006
$35.00
12.0%
Shiny, bright yellow gold in hue, the rims are fully transparent, no sign of aging anywhere. The nose is minty and floral, close to black licorice at times, has pear to apple fruit scents, touch of wet stone, fairly primary and not a lot of complexity yet developed. Medium-bodied, on the soft side, soaks in immediately so as to highlight the yellow and green apple, pear and peach fruit, minor orange to lemon citrus. The acidity is so-so which likely keeps the stone, pebble accents at a low to moderate level. Finds more focus as it opens, additional minerality. That mint helps it lift some. Also has a vague doughiness to it which leaves one curious. May have been caught at an awkward moment. 1.5 liter bottle. 88 points
Chapoutier, Michel
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Chante-Alouette
Marsanne
1998
$79.99
13.5%
Slight greenish cast to the aging golden core, holds well through the rims, decent shine to it. The nose is all butterscotch, caramel and poached apricots, pears and peaches, in addition you get mint, orange blossom accents, has balance given its weight in your nostrils and takes on more fruitiness with air. Medium-bodied, dry and almost dusty, the acidity is average but the wine does not seem unstructured. Stronger orange citrus presence here, nutty with a light sherried quality. The pear, yellow apple, melon, apricot fruit otherwise fresher here with less dried fruit, nothing very sugary sweet. Creates a pleasing floral perfume, rather on the delicate side. In no danger of dropping off soon. 1.5 liter bottle. 90 points
Cims de Porrera
Priorat, Spain
Classic
Blend
2001
$54.99
14.5%
Some filminess, the core is more black than purple but not opaque, a lot of crimson to brick red in the rims, heavily hued. The nose has the texture of wet wool, a few notes of peanut shell and matchstick before thicker cherry, plum, blackberry and some golden raisin take over, pressed flowers, some bread to dough qualities, has good easy movement and swirls in your nostrils. Medium-bodied, fluffy and soft, at the start mainly garrigues led flowers, orange cream with some vanillin powder left. The tannins are pulverized down some. The cherry, raspberry more concentrated like hard candy than sugary sweet. Continues on into sandalwood, cedar and baking spices, a little herbaceous at times. Has a complexity which defies precise description, you just appreciate it, nod, and move on. 85% Carignan, 15% Grenache. 90 points
Tour Blanche, Château La
Bordeaux, France
Sauternes
Blend
1997
$48.99
13.5%
Yellow to rust orange in color, in terms of hue maybe showing some age but otherwise still bright and shiny, holds nicely into the rims. The nose is fresh and open, floral musk, orange marmalade, cinnamon and ginger, apricot to peach paste, honeydew, green apple, not overly sweet, light smokiness, hovers in your nostrils. Full-bodied, concentrated yet also stretches out well, notes of sweet tea, lemon and orange citrus, nuts, brown sugar and some dough flakes. Full array of apricot, nectarine, peach, pineapple fruit. The acidity is good, not great, but enough to keep it going. On the floral side, excellent lift and prefers to rise up than sink into the tongue. Collected and delivers a clear message with patience. 70% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Muscadelle. 91 points
Allemand, Thierry
Rhône, France
Cornas
Chaillot
Syrah
2004
$69.99
13.0%
Mild filminess to it, the purple lightened in the core, the rims remain mostly ruby with minor bricking, good vigor in the overall color. The nose is filled with tar, tobacco ash, cement, animal fur, pressed flowers as well as candied cherries and orange peel, touch of witch hazel, excellent fullness and length. Medium-bodied, the acidity is there while the tannin seems fully resolved, creates a smooth texture with only a little grittiness at the end. The raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit is sweet yet more sour at the end. This base built upon with merde, forest matter, herbs, tar, molten stone, orange peel, brings that “animal” character. Clings to the mouth pores and soaks in to extend the finish. Relaxed about itself and drinking well, still on its plateau. 92 points
Guigal, E.
Rhône, France
Condrieu
Viognier
2010
$49.99
13.5%
Light green-gold in hue, very transparent with above average shine for the grape, otherwise not much visually striking about it. The nose is big and round without being soft per se, loaded with honeysuckle, orange blossom, ginger, vanilla accents and yellow apple, apricot, peach fruit scents, holds its shape well and stays persistent. Medium-bodied, lots of heft and weight but, again, moves deftly. Conjures up orange, tangerine and close to lime citrus, cinnamon, honeysuckle, the acidity is light but enough to properly frame the peach, apricot, melon fruit. That vanilla knits into the whole, never too sweet and ends up in a zesty, fresher finish. Refrains from getting pushy even as it stays on the fuller side of the spectrum. The floral perfume lingers past the spiciness. 91 points
Kaesler
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Old Vine
Shiraz
2006
$49.99
16.0%
Inky purple core of full opacity, the rims scarlet to rust red, more brooding than bright, sleek surface. The nose offers up kindling smoke, violets and mint, concentration and restraint both found in the blackberry, elderberry, cherry fruit scents, overall a but stiff in the joints and doesn’t flow like it might. Full-bodied, awash in creamy oak, butterscotch, vanilla pudding, caramel and toffee with that mint present too. Neither tannic nor acidic, however, drier than might be expected, lacks sap. But there’s flavor in the blueberry, boysenberry, cherry fruit. The orange citrus attempts to lend spring to its step. No gamey nor meaty notes but leaves you thinking they might appear. With that in mind, unlikely to stay a coherent whole over time, take advantage of its relative youth. 88 points
Henry’s Drive
South Australia, Australia
Padthaway
Reserve
Shiraz
2003
$54.99
16.0%
Blackish red core, like a bruise, the rims a scorched sunset red, full-on bricking, fairly clean with no sign of meaningful sediment. The nose is on the volatile side, even as it pile drives eucalyptus, mint, licorice and vanilla into your nostrils, the blueberry, raspberry fruit scents like syrup at an International House of Pancakes, nothing subtle nor, for that matter, developed about it, wants to take big to the next level. Full-bodied, leaves the impression that it has lost weight, particularly in the mid-palate. Still no lack of butterscotch, toasted coconut, custard, eucalyptus and mint. Here the density of the blackberry, blueberry, cassis fruit holds the alcoholic heat in check. Touch of grill smoke and dripping meat fat. However, not anything close to what you’d call tertiary development. Once the fruit goes, won’t be much to replace it. 88 points
Copain
Monterey County, California
Santa Lucia Highlands
Garys’ Vineyard
Syrah
2006
$60.00
14.6%
Close to jet black or the darkest purple imaginable, fully opaque, the rims are mostly crimson and starting to get a strong brick red hue, surface remains highly reflective. The nose has a curious blend of camphor, mint and pine along with blueberry, raspberry jam notes, any oak stays in the background, has some floral accents but not much citrus, the fruitiness doesn’t linger much. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, dry and somewhat clumpy, like a bunched up skirt. The tannin is out of whack and there seems to be something underripe in the phenolics. The blueberry, blackberry, cherry fruit fares slightly better here. You get cocoa and some roasted coffee, pushes the flowers of to the side. Mutter of dried orange or grapefruit. Not much going on, comes off as if it has already dried out a good deal. 86 points
Soumade, Domaine la
Rhône, France
Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Rasteau
Fleur de Confiance
Blend
2000
$64.99
15.0%
As much black as purple in the core, deepened by the great deal of sediment floating about, the rims have taken on an orange rust to yellow hue, starting to look its age. The blackberry, raspberry fruit first gets your attention in the nose but there’s also ample garrigues, white pepper and lavender, undercurrent of milk chocolate too, has good lift but maybe too many alcoholic “cleansing” sensations. Full-bodied, soft and expansive, the sediment does create a gritty texture. Blackberry, boysenberry, plum to cherry, the fruit has more tang than expected and not all that sugary, even if quite ripe. Ginger, nutmeg, orange peel, plenty of that lavender, not much oakiness in play. Gets stemmy and bitter through the finish. Suspect its best days may be behind it. Mostly Grenache, remainder Syrah, Mourvèdre. 88 points
Pétrus, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
2004
13.5%
Young ruby red to violet core, on the whole clear, throws a little fine sediment when decanted, also takes on a more burnt red hue at the rims. The nose has a great high tone to it, strong goal line penetration, sandalwood, cedar, orange spice, mocha, the cherry, blackberry, raspberry has a solid center to it, mixes in a touch of golden raisin, flowers for prettiness. Medium-bodied, has a certain thickness which anchors it in the palate, flowers, orange to lemon citrus, has a noticeable grassiness, the tannin has kick but not set on proving any points, keeps you awake. Grass, olive pits give it a broader range to draw from, the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit has a dusty texture. Keeps a rugged balance, lots of thrust left through the finish. Structure still a big factor, likely to outlast the fruit, so this is a good time to hear the sound of corks popping. 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 91 points
Pétrus, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
2003
13.5%
Bright red ruby to brick color, little evidence of age, clear with minimal sediment, has a burnt sunset edge to it. Reductive nose of peanut shells, mud, merde, pressed wildflowers, wet cedar, orange spice, mildly roasted quality to the cherry, blackberry scents, dried fruit concentration but not sweet, alcohol comes through, oak is moderate, buttered popcorn and hard caramel, some bell pepper, parts just not cohering into seamless whole. Medium-bodied, dry even as the tannins are low, more astringent than anything. Caramel, vanilla, butter, more toast than cream, does develop a floral musk and herbal perfume. The blackberry, boysenberry, cherry fruit lasts well but no real juiciness, semi-roasted, even at this intermediate stage the awkward phenolics showing too much. Sour orange, cinnamon, ginger, cedar, cocoa dust, covers most of the basics but no extra gear. Even with air time doesn't find a confident stride. 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Sine Qua Non
Regional Blend, California
California
Raven No. 5
Syrah
2006
$135.00
15.5%
Dark purple core, not exactly opaque, heavily saturated magenta rims, could glow on a starless night, pinkish outer edge. Reductive nose of peanut shells, merde but way overcome by ripe plum, cassis, boysenberry fruit scents with crème brûlée, butterscotch, vanilla bean, mint notes, has a rough hewn quality to it with some alcohol showing, on the four square side. Full-bodied but not really all that velvety rich, dry and more uneven than smooth. Sticks to a script of vanilla, butterscotch, rum raisin, date, plum, blackberry, mint. Not sure it has tannin or acidity. It’s oak and fruit while neither being sweet nor juicy. Ends with plastic to rubber notes. Misshapen but powerfully persistent. 93% Syrah, 5% Grenache, 2% Viognier. 87 points
Sandrone, Luciano
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Cannubi Boschis
Nebbiolo
1996
$85.99
14.0%
Deep purple core, richly hued with good cleanliness, strong ruby rims, minimal signs of aging, lots of vigor. Flamboyant nose of ripe cherry, plum, blackberry fruit, pressed flowers, star anise, cinnamon, dried oranges, fluffy texture, ripe and forward the oaky vanilla and toast is mostly knit in but still a big presence, quite modern. Full-bodied even as it feels like it has shed a lot of fat, remains round and giving, loaded with plum, black currant, cherry fruit, Indian spices and candied orange peel. Touch of leather and something meaty but does not persist. Here the caramel, butterscotch, vanilla comes through longer. Pine, mud, pressed flowers, gives you lots of cedar as it opens. Clenches some on the finish. Not much here evokes what you’d expect in a Barolo wine. 88 points
Pousse d’Or, Domaine de la
Burgundy, France
Volnay
Les Caillerets Clos des 60 Ouvrées Monopole
Pinot Noir
1996
$70.99
13.0%
Lightest of filminess creates a dusky ruby-purple color, has fatness in the rims in terms of glow but not so much color. The nose is all spicy ginger, clove, nutmeg accompanied by figs, raisins, dried cherries and lemon curd, has a meadowy grass and herbal fluff, really focuses before it dissolves, zips forward into your nostrils. Close to full-bodied, broad and on the soft side, its structure mostly resolved. Grapefruit, wildflowers, remnants of vanilla and caramel, the acidity sweeps away most of the oak. Has muscular cherry, red currant, blackberry fruit, however, does pull up slightly through the finish. Retains this layered feel on the tongue without sticky heaviness. has an inner strength to it, if not meaningful complexity. 90 points
Engel, Domaine René
Burgundy, France
Vosne-Romanée
Pinot Noir
1999
$39.99
12.5%
Clean brick red color, some purple left, light orange tinge along the rims, no visible sediment and very clean. Thick floral perfume, hint of mushroom and earth but otherwise pure, some fruit pit nature to the strawberry, raspberry, green apple scents, slight orange peel, nothing old here at all, all youthful vigor. Medium-bodied, hugs the palate well yet all the tannin seems resolved, fully on its optimal drinking plateau. The garrigues like florality gives it additional fluffy texture, consistent cranberry, raspberry, cherry fruit. Lots more orange peel offered, here you get more stone than earth, keeps that purity. Puts on weight with air time and sinks nicely into the palate by the time it finishes. The acidity is low so the ripeness takes over, exacerbating the weight. Doing what you’d hope for and more for a basic village wine. 91 points
Lamy, Domaine Hubert
Burgundy, France
Saint-Aubin
Derrière Chez Édouard
Haute Densité
Chardonnay
2006
$59.99
13.0%
Greenish gold in hue, very clear but in no way watery, the rims show moderate concentration, youthfully bright. Very fine oak in the nose, sour lime juice, zippy toastiness, gentle vanilla accents, tight violets led floral burst, the pear, yellow apple, peach fruit scents have as much skin to them as pulp, everything is just so and proper. Medium-bodied but so light of touch that it feels almost gossamer, has powerful acidity to fuel the lemon, tangerine, lime citrus kaleidoscope. Lilacs and orange blossoms, there is a laser-like quality to the oak, not overly sweet as it unfolds butterscotch, caramel, vanilla, ginger, cinnamon flavors. Ample pear, apple, persimmon, peach fruit, as it warms takes on a dusty texture. Takes long strides towards the finish, pure class and breeding, tastes like no expense was spared. 92 points
Weingart, Weingut Familie Florian
Mittelrhein, Germany
Schloß Fürstenberg
Spätlese AP #8
Riesling
2001
$29.99
7.5%
The golden color only mildly deepened by age, neither especially shiny nor dull, distorts light below the surface and stays full to the rims. The nose is very milky at first, stabilizes into lime, orange citrus, lavender, pineapple, apricot and apple fruit, some lingering rubber notes, not quite minerally but there is a saline quality to it, lots of freshness and youth. Medium-bodied, has a stronger grip than it actually uses, the acidity is quite nice for a wine as gentle as this is. Again, clear emphasis on lime, lemon and tangerine citrus, tangy and sweet, soft drink like. The papaya, nectarine, pineapple, green apple and apricot fruit vivid and juicy, fully present through the finish. Here the milkiness lasts and takes up more room than the rubber. Light minerals or slate, just too pretty for a strong terroir statement. Has matured, remains much more fun than intellectually compelling, you throw it back very quickly. 91 points
Selbach-Oster, Weingut
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Zeltinger
Schlossberg
Spätlese AP #10
Riesling
1999
$18.99
8.5%
The gold base appears to have deepened slightly, a green tinge remains, good fullness to the rims and while clear, there’s plenty of light being bent under the surface. The nose offers more milkiness than rubber or diesel, this plays into notes of ginger and cinnamon as well as brings a sherbet quality to the lime, tangerine citrus, still more freshness than poached or dried character to the peach, apricot, nectarine fruit scents, overall sort of block like and slow to move. Full-bodied, here too bottom heavy and slowly paced, the acidity is about average, nothing remarkable either way. The lime, lemon, orange citrus on the sweet side with a mild tang. The rubber catches up to the lactose, at times surpasses. The fruit is acceptable, short of tropical or very juicy but clear message of pineapple, nectarine, pear and peach. Pleasant enough, not getting the sense it evolved into anything far from what it was in its youth. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2013
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Schlossböckelheimer
Kupfergrube
Spätlese AP #6
Riesling
1999
$39.99
9.0%
Darkened color, slight greenish tint to the gold base, looks on the flat side, no sparkle, fades a lot along the rims. Milky nose, smells mainly like a combination of lemonade and limeade, some vague minerality, dried apricots and pears, peach cobbler, cinnamon and floral dew, gets spicier as it opens. Fleshy and close to full-bodied, yet has that powdery, cotton candy dissolve. Leans heavily on the tangy lime, pink grapefruit, tangelo citrus for flavor. Adds in pineapple, mango, nectarine to the foundation of peach and apricot. The acidity is very light which inhibits freshness, however, it flows easily. Less minerally here, more chalky. The milkiness persists with a larger presence of soft rubber instead. Apple cider like finish. This is all you are going to get here, drink up. 89 points
Bellivière, Domaine de
Loire, France
Coteaux du Loir
Hommage à Louis Derré
Pineau d’Aunis
2002
$33.99
13.0%
Cloudy with a fair amount of sediment, yet with a glowing blackish purple core and then brick red rims, hard to tell if it is showing its age or if this is its natural look regardless, light tinge of ruby furthest out. The nose is all white pepper at first, settles into raspberry compote, cherry pie, fried lemon peel, some earthy mushroom stuff, extremely rich and pungent, lots of life in it. Medium-bodied, flattens itself like a blanket on the tongue, almost wooly in texture, more dense than heavy. The acidity is fine and helps it pulsate. The raspberry, rhubarb, strawberry, cherry fruit is more ripe and full than sweet and lasts well through the finish. The end is also infused with grapefruit citrus. The pepper and mushroom more lowkey here, at times even loamy. In a comfortable place, unlikely to improve, why ask it to? 91 points
Petterino, Marco
Piedmont, Italy
Gattinara
Nebbiolo
1996
$42.99
13.0%
Cherry red core with a light orange cast, very clean and clear, actually somewhat youthful looking. Quiet nose of leather, fallen leaves, brown dirt and grapefruit pith, the sour cherry to red currant fruit scents are tactful but not silent, dissolves with a pleasing burst of anise then fades like a dapper gentleman. Light-bodied, the tannins have smoothed out very well, appears to be drinking at the back end of its best plateau. You get tea leaf, leather, cowhide before brighter lemon zest. The cherry, blackberry fruit is humbly ripe, the wine really opens up with air time and gets sweeter. That said, also seems like it would fade some if open too many hours. Keeps growing on you as you sip it. 88 points
Bovio, Azienda Agricola Gianfranco
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Bricco Parussi
Riserva
Nebbiolo
2004
$73.99
14.5%
Clear ruby-purple, extremely youthful appearance, full rims, bare hint of brick red at the outer edges. The nose is curiously oaky given maturation in large Slovenian botti, full of coconut oil, custard, caramel, accompanied by super ripe and candied strawberry, raspberry fruit, seems very modern and in a primary stage, touch of rose petals and licorice, starts off big and then trails off. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, the tannins always present but softened to allow flow and good balance. Rich plum, cherry, blackberry fruit, soaks in admirably. Presents blood orange, anise, mint, swerves into leather and muddy earth. Its lack of evident structure makes aging questionable and then one must ask can the fruit last as the oak flavors integrate. It wants very much to be liked. 89 points
Johannishof, Weingut
Rheingau, Germany
Johannisberger
Klaus
Spätlese AP #11
Riesling
2001
$16.99
9.0%
The golden hue is fattening and perhaps at the same time turning duller, distorts your vision and light, good fullness through the rims, at times shows a glint of green flecks, looks maturing, not old. Thick, syrupy nose of pineapple, papaya, nectarine and apricot fruit, lots of lactose notes, lower level of warmed rubber, pink grapefruit and tangerine pulp, plumpness does not allow for many tertiary nuances to show themselves, if they are indeed there at all. Full-bodied, the acidity level is average, does some minor mopping up of the fleshy orange, grapefruit juiciness, likewise may heighten the tropical nature of the pineapple, nectarine, green apple, passion fruit flavors. Lots of tang and life, loses most of any lactose or rubber aspects here. Buoyant and peppy, at times good-naturedly sloppy, you might want to hold out some hope for future development but it’s a risky bet. Got ’em, drink ’em. 88 points
Ricci, Tenimenti
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
2005
$41.99
14.5%
The core is black to crimson inflected purple, takes on a burnt red to orange cast further out, based on color looks older than it is, still trim with a nice surface shine. The nose is slightly medicinal, witch hazel, camphor, pressed flowers, grapefruit pith, muddy rocks, gets more barnyardy as it opens, the level of the red cherry, raspberry fruit stays consistently moderate, punches its way in and out of your nostrils. Medium-bodied, tries to layer itself but the acidity and tannin way too wicked for that, dries up before it can soak in. That noted, there is ripeness in the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit, however, no lingering sweetness. Licorice, anise and rose petals, it does have a pretty side before it gets locked in the bedroom. Perhaps more overall stoniness than expected, adds to the hard nosed chewiness. Can’t shake that reductive, merde element. There’s good material here and perhaps it is getting into an awkward phase, certainly needs some of its structure to resolve. 88 points
Arnoux, Domaine Robert
Burgundy, France
Vosne-Romanée
Pinot Noir
1999
13.0%
Close to no purple left in the core, medicinal red with some bricking, quite clear and clean though, mixture of reds, oranges, and yellows at the rims, its hue betrays its age yet ever so sparkly. The nose displays a mild funk which yields quickly to stones, pebbles, crisp orange zest, lemon pulp, there’s some good ripeness left in the red cherry, raspberry scents, clean and simple with decent fullness. Medium-bodied, has lost weight which lets the acidity show more. Peppery, stony, poor brown dirt, good balance between the red cherry, mixed berry fruit and terroir. At times you’d think there’s chocolate in there. Has a pleasant herbal lift aided by fluffy wildflowers and orange peel. Ends with merde as the other elements have disappeared. On the back half of its optimal plateau but no issue with it. 87 points
Cerbaiona, Azienda Agricola
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
1999
$115.99
14.0%
Somewhat brackish core, leaning more on black and orange than purple, the rims a metallic rusty red with a hint of yellow at the outsides, looks aged and also dusty enough to lack vibrancy in the glass. Ripe and juicy nose, cherry compote, blackberries, cinnamon, nutmeg, black licorice, ginger crisps before any leather or earthy funk, dewy and clingy texture, excellent job at making it hyper approachable yet still coming off as traditional enough grandpa would approve. Medium-bodied plus, has good flow and bite both, menthol, anise, rose petals, leather, the tannin has fully relaxed but it is not lacking for structure and does not depend on its weight for shape. Super ripe cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit alive, leading into a dustier finish of crushed stone. Shows a sense of place without losing the flash of all that fruit, succeeds in splitting the difference. 89 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Cabernet Sauvignon
2003
$65.00
14.8%
Faint glow to the fully opaque purple core, there is a crimson and red magenta hue dominating the heavyset rims, looks like it has some age on it but not necessarily close to a decade’s worth. Velvety ripe fruit in the nose, plum, prune, black cherry, cassis then buttered popcorn and butterscotch, however, the oak is decently knit in, has a moderately strong menthol lift and some grill smoke, that said not much here beaming out a strong, clear “Cab” message. Full-bodied, dense and erected at a massive scale, a lot oakier here with vanilla, whipped cream, toffee and butterscotch flavors. Mixes in ginger, cinnamon and eucalyptus then gets grapey with plum, cherry, blueberry fruit. Overall the fruit has receded enough that the tannin actually has a chance to strut. This might help a touch of stony earthiness and cedar to come through. Not developed and unlikely to do so at this point. 87 points
Collosorbo, Tenuta di
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva
Brunello
1997
$74.99
14.0%
Some blackish quality to the brick red, purple bruise core, the rims are rusty orange and then yellow further out, the surface has retained a nice shine. The nose has a damp barnyard funkiness, wet animal hide and merde, stewed plums, maraschino cherries, fennel, rosemary, spiced oranges, remains fat and thus loses some clarity, ends with a curious push of milk chocolate. Full-bodied, lays itself on the palate like it wants a nap in a bad way. With menthol, sweet garden herbs, cocoa, cinnamon, oranges and dried out potpourri, very good pungency. Low on the tannin or acidity, its general density takes the place of structure. You get plum to prune before black cherry, blackberry compote. Huge in scale and built to impress, certainly fruit driven and, could it be, hedonistic. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2013
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Springs
Zinfandel
2001
$29.99
Trim blackish-purple color, while opaque the cleanliness of the liquid is evident, some ruby left towards the rims, more there by way of red clay/brick hue. The nose drips with coconut oil, burnt butter and butterscotch yet with an odd witch hazel element too, has a light beef jerky edge to it, saline, perfectly acceptable level of blackberry, black cherry scents but not that fruity per se, displays credible complexity and maturity. Medium-bodied, comes across as having lost weight, drains out of the mouth at a rapid clip. The coconut, caramel, chocolate oak helps sweeten up the blackberry, raspberry, cherry fruit, still it loses some grip through the finish. Splash of green apple. Mild dried flower action going on, this stays way behind the stone, metal to earth and dried beef stuff. Has a very nice balance between primary and tertiary elements but what you see it what you get, nowhere left to go. 76% Zinfandel, 17% Petite Sirah, 7% Carignane. 90 points
Felsina, Fattoria di
Tuscany, Italy
Chianti Classico
Berardenga Riserva Rancia
Sangiovese
1995
$39.99
Very shiny, no fine sediment, the black core hardly has any purple left, dark brick red rims with a dullish orange aura, definitely looks its age hue-wise. Tea leaf, orange spice, dried rose petals give the nose depth while a thick plum, black cherry dew cements it in, very light cedar, touch more noticeable herbal qualities. Full-bodied, here in the mouth you feel a very fine grittiness to it even if the tannin has subsided and acidity not a big factor. Twigs, bark, fallen leaves plus cedar, sandalwood and dried ginger powder play roles. Not as floral here, less orange citrus too. Plummy, a testament to how ripe it must have been in its youth. Candied cherries, raspberries too. Has a nice perfumed lift, almost gentle. You can tell it is in its sunset years but remains dapper and classy. 89 points
Lagler, Weingut Karl
Wachau, Austria
Spitzer
1000-Eimerberg
Smaragd
Riesling
2007
13.0%
Bright green color with some gold in there, very shiny and clean, even with that color seems youngish. Has a big and penetrating nose with lots of rubber and diesel notes, tangy grapefruit and a dry tropicality evoking nectarine, pineapple, papaya and passion fruit, finally softens into some honey notes. Medium-bodied, dry with a big acidic thrust but turns flat at the end. The tangerine, pink grapefruit liven up the attack, less of a rubber presence here, good mix of apricot, pear into pineapple, papaya, nectarine with lots of dry extract which inhibits its sweetness. That said, throws you a light powdered sugar aspect though. Likely in a very good place now, nothing strongly suggests future improvement. 1.5 liter bottle. 89 points
Alternatively you can continue on to read tasting notes on other older wines Hanes has put out of their misery.