Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in November 2012
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2000
$37.99
12.5%
Light violet, much more cough syrup to brick red in color, quite clear, some diminishment around the rims. Highly aromatic, green olives, mud, fallen wood, orange peel and pressed flowers infuse the nose, consistent sour cherry to raspberry fruit scents, good bit of sauvage animality, cleansing feel to it. Light-bodied, the acidity is high and gives it both clarity and bite. Weaves together orange and white grapefruit, olive pits, cracked leather, dried tar to almost asphalt, white pepper. Very pure and linear, particularly the tart cherry, cranberry, raspberry fruit, really jabs you then trails off. Very dry finish, lots of tension but manages to stay balanced. Aggressive fireworks. 90 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2001
$37.99
13.0%
Mild cloudiness in the purple core, soon starts to turn to crimson and then bright brick red, strong rims with good overall layering into the glass. Full, pungent nose of cherry, blackberry fruit as if still trying to remain primary, blends in baking spices, stone, black tea leaf, potpourri, not very clear individually, more a woven mass, seems about as evolved as it is going to get though. Full-bodied, spicy with a sort of peppery tannin to start, the acidity is there but not hogging the spotlight. Does keep the focus on the ripe blackberry, boysenberry, plum fruit. Floral and the lift becomes more pronounced over time. Minerally, more a dry gaminess than real animal quality. Holds its weight nicely through the finish, good plumpness, just remains a touch monochrome. 90 points
Graillot, Domaine Alain
Rhône, France
Crozes Hermitage
La Guiraude
Syrah
2001
$33.99
13.0%
Luminous violet, not quite opaque, liquid is clear, fat ruby-magenta rims, decidedly youthful in appearance. Salty, saline, earthy nose with beef jerky, dried earth, lemon peel shades, gives you a smoky edge to the cherry, blackberry scents, at times texturally almost tickles your nostrils, lasts well without losing heft. In the mouth it’s equally full-bodied, possessed of a velvety texture, clings to your mouth pores. Big, zesty white grapefruit explosion then tea leaves, black olives, floral water, peppery too. Tar, tar and tar, then like molten volcanic ash. The plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit is juicy and rich, dappled in maple syrup. Crackles with energy, sour yet so fruity. 92 points
Chave, Domaine Jean-Louis
Rhône, France
Saint-Joseph
Syrah
1999
$40.99
12.5%
More bright red than violet, stays trim and unblemished through the rims, touch more magenta there, no visual sense of aging. Slight reductive funk to the nose, perhaps mildly closed, you get a good amount of cherry, currant fruit, lesser saltlick, white grapefruit, stone, stays dense enough to make it difficult to parse out specific elements. Medium-bodied, loses some weight as it progresses past the mid-palate. Savory with stony, minerally appeal and a fairly masculine profile (given the appellation’s rep for the feminine side of the northern Rhône). Grapefruit bite, white pepper, has tannic structure and some supporting acidity while not hard in any manner. The plum, currant, red cherry fruit is zingy and cutting. Plenty of kick left. 90 points
Trapadis, Domaine du
Rhône, France
Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Rasteau
Préstige
Blend
1996
$17.99
13.5%
Mild filminess to the ruby-violet core, turns clearer near the rims, less vibrancy too, yet no overt sign of palpable aging. Piercing nose fueled mainly by white pepper, grapefruit, stone dust than a waft of nail polish, softens into milk chocolate, the raspberry, strawberry, cherry fruit drifts in close to an afterthought. Medium to full-bodied, softish in feel, still it possesses a decent shock of acidity with choral notes from pepper, flowers, stone shards and healthy dose of grapefruit. The sugars in the raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit front loaded. Even as it surfaces cocoa and mocha through the finish there’s lots of naked aggression. Mostly Grenache, remainder Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvèdre. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in October 2012
Neckerauer, Weingut K.
Pfalz, Germany
Rheinpfalz Weisenheimer
Hahnen
Auslese AP #23
Riesling
1991
$14.99
11.5%
Deep orange bronze color, clearly aged, easy enough to see through it, however, not dull, decent shine, peters out around the rims. The nose has a blockish feel, doesn’t move fluidly, gives you lactose, orange marmalade, hard rubber, flowers and nuts, not sweet enough to really create a poached feel in the peach, apricot, pineapple fruit, overall puts on more weight as it warms but still has a weak handshake. Medium-bodied, much of its thrust frontloaded, dry and comes across as having lost vibrancy in the nectarine, peach, apricot, yellow apple fruit, the orange, tangerine citrus sort of pushes it a few more feet forward. Vanilla custard, nuts, milk and rubber come through albeit little of it with verve and depth. Hard to find any acidity to provide direction. Getting tired, not going to put up a fight over anything. 500 ml bottle. 85 points
Sent to Their Grave in September 2012
Cornu & Fils, Edmond
Burgundy, France
Ladoix
Le Bois Roussot
Pinot Noir
2006
$37.99
13.0%
Crimson red with some purple mixed in, rust tinged rims, looks older than it is, albeit clean with no real filminess, light overall. The nose is funky with merde, muddy earth, matted fallen leaves, the sour cherry scents lack length. Light to medium-bodied, a kiss of caramel starts to rev up the strawberry, cherry fruit, at least through the mid-palate. The funk is lower here, tree bark, leaves, tobacco then stone shards. The acidity is high, tannic too, gives it a stern quality. At times the flowers come through and it seems prettier but not often enough. Cannot anticipate the fruit coming close to outlasting the structure. 87 points
Chantemerle (A&F Boudin), Domaine de
Burgundy, France
Chablis
l’Homme Mort
Chardonnay
2005
$31.99
12.5%
Moderate depth to the golden hue, still youthful in appearance, decent shine. Floral nose with vanilla bean, mint, there’s ample pear, red apple, apricot scents without ever getting fruity, some lemon sparkle, dollop of honey, as it warms you get slightly more stoniness. Medium-bodied, dry and tacky texture but not especially acidic. Brings some dough and spice notes without showing signs of premature oxidation. The tangerine, orange citrus has zing, more so than the stone element. While solid, not much depth in the pear, peach, apricot, melon, not what you’d consider juicy. Spicy with emphasis on ginger and nutmeg. Some bubblegum notes. Decent cut but nothing special. 88 points
Furlan, Azienda Vitivinicola Gianfranco
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
Castelcosa
Schioppettino
2000
$14.99
13.0%
Opaque black-purple core, dense and semi-filmy, orange to yellow rims, visibly aged but visibly nowhere near over the hill. You get golden raisin, fig, date, cherry and plum in the nose, grill smoke, wet wool, dark chocolate, not all that complex or possessed of tertiary development yet not simple either, dissolves in a block-like fashion. Medium-bodied, clearly displayed, no guile nor makeup, some acidity, fluid without richness, on the nutty side, tastes almost all like raisin, date, fig, there’s little cherry or raspberry left. Some nuts, ginger, cinnamon and lemon peel. Sour, conjures up a pickle brine at times. Again, fluid and openly knit, were it not for the dried fruit nature it’s barely something you’d consider as a dessert wine choice. 500 ml bottle. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2012
Saint Cosme, Château de
Rhône, France
Gigondas
Blend
2001
$27.99
14.0%
Remarkably clear liquid, the purple leeched out of the core with more garnet, orange and red clay visible, no real change in hue at the rims, just loss of richness. The nose has some wooliness to it, spice and flowers, slight briny quality to the otherwise candied cherry, raspberry fruit, mild leafiness too, displays lots of chocolate at first but overall not really oaky, as it starts to fill out the alcoholic fumes distract. Medium-bodied, has clearly lost weight yet while dry there’s still some hard candy sweetness to the cherry, raspberry to strawberry fruit. Orange citrus, chocolate, vanilla, flowers and ginger to caraway seeds act in support. Tannins dulled out, not much acidity there. Finish is a little short. Really depends on the remaining fruit to carry the day. Not bad by any stretch, zero sense in holding further. 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 5% Cinsault. 88 points
Müller-Scharzhof, Weingut Egon
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Scharzhofberger
Kabinett AP #2
Riesling
1999
$22.99
9.0%
Dark bronzed orange in color, mostly clear with some bending of light, while the intensity fades around the rims the general coloration doesn’t, very much looks its age if not older. Full nose, offering orange sherbet, vanilla custard, rose water, rubber, apricot and peach paste as well as firmer green apple notes, cider like at times, cinnamon, only real surprise might be the lack of stone or mineral elements, overall has sufficient development without trading off too much fruit. Medium-bodied, its relative softness makes it feel bigger as well as keeps it soaking into the palate. Not to say there’s no acidity, more that it comes across as handcuffed rather than in charge. Coming from this there’s abundant whipped cream, vanilla fudge, butterscotch and honey flavors, sweet in a concentrated by age fashion. The orange and lime citrus sweet and has a powdered soft drink character. Poached to dried peach, apricot, nectarine and yellow apple appear, pineapple there but receding. If you don’t get too critical this is a pretty nice drop but once you start focusing loose threads appear. So keep the lighting low! 88 points
Fleur de Jaugue, Château La
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
2000
$26.99
13.0%
The purple core has a soft reddish tint, while on the clear side there is a visible fine sediment which quickly settles at the glass bottom, the rims show some orange bricking but nothing too serious. The nose brings nutmeg, cinnamon spice alongside ripe plum, blackberry, cherry scents, some orange spice and camphor too, while not oaky also does not show many tertiary development, plus has more alcoholic fumes than you’d expect at this percentage. In the mouth it’s full-bodied with decent suppleness given the higher level of tannin left in the wine. Cedar, balsam wood, the spices incline towards sage, marjoram more than sweeter baking spices. The plum, currant, cherry fruit full yet dry out some through the finish, at least this helps its posture be erect. The oak toast and vanilla most present retronasally, creates a big perfume after you swallow. A decent example of its type but nothing to write home about, price was fair. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 88 points
Gaillard, Pierre
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Rose Pourpre
Syrah
1999
$47.99
12.5%
Even with lots of sediment on the shoulder the liquid is clear, an orange tint to the base of reddish purple, you even get some ruby nearer the rims, doesn’t look especially aged. There’s a minor whiff of brett and animal hide but the ripeness of the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit pretty much rules the roost, olive pits, menthol, pressed flowers, too high toned to get really gamey, remains primary, any oak treatment not showing much. Medium-bodied with a soft cushion like feel in the palate, this in no way to diminish the very nice acidity present, just kind of a glider. Here there is some oak toast alongside the flowers, orange pekoe tea, menthol. The fruit at times has a roasted to dried fruit nature, plum, cherry and currant. Minimal meatiness, less olive or minerals than in the nose. You believe it’s Côte-Rôtie, however, the plumpness of the fruit makes it seem less “traditional” than some may prefer. 91 points
Faldas da Serra, Sociedade Agrícola
Dão, Portugal
Quinta das Maias Malvasia-Fina
Malvasia
2001
$24.99
13.0%
While spotless and crystal clear it also has a very aged orange bronze color, yellows around the rims, pleasant juxtaposition of hue and sparkle. There’s a good deal of dried raw baking dough, honey, nuts and orange peel to the nose, mildly oxidative feel in a boozy way, some anise but not really spicy, the peach, apple, pineapple fruit tends to whisper. Full-bodied, the acidity remains strong even as it feels more horizontal in the mouth than in its youth. Cinnamon, nutmeg, coconut and mint pretty up the apricot, peach, apple fruit, albeit the latter not especially strong here either, does improve at room temperature. The honey, brown sugar to dough and flakes element persists at a lower grade. Still, doesn’t ditch that Sherry character either. Intellectually interesting even if not a particularly inspiring wine. 86 points
Champalou, Domaine
Loire, France
Vouvray
Chenin Blanc
2002
$14.99
12.5%
Glowing dark gold to light amber color, good clarity, holds well enough through the rims, does not visually suggest a maturing wine, vigorous. The nose is a lively mix of pineapple, kumquat, papaya, nectarine and peach scents, flowers and honey, whisper of waxiness, the citrus is lighter, full but not overpowering overall presence. Medium-bodied, the acidity feels like a heavy cloak, no edge but does dry and shape things. Does have a slightly bitter nuttiness to it, also additional tangerine to grapefruit citrus, more chalk than stone or minerals. The peach, nectarine, guava fruit toned down, not as tropical as in the nose. Develops smokiness as it warms. The material needs greater length to avoid a puckering sensation at the end but can’t fault it for the price at the point in its evolution. 88 points
Lingenfelder, Weingut H&R
Pfalz, Germany
Grosskarlbacher
Burgweg
Kabinett Halbtrocken AP #6
Scheurebe
2001
$13.99
11.0%
Looks like a solid block of rich gold in the glass, not necessarily amber and at times you view a green tint, looks like it has some age but probably looked like that young too. Honey, orange blossom, rose water and wax slowly bubble up in the nose, the apricot, nectarine, pineapple fruit has faded some, overall dry and mildly dusty in texture. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, here the acidity breathes life into it, especially for the grapefruit, orange, lemon citrus. More oomph in the nectarine, papaya, pineapple, green apple fruit too, still not “tropical” in nature. Some grassiness as well as pebbles and stone dust, by the same token not what you’d call a terroir driven wine. Happily enough, delivers a blend of honey and vanilla at the end, helps extend its presence. Past its prime but doesn’t suck. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2012
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Vieilles Vignes
Blend
2000
$29.99
13.5%
The liquid is clear and free of sediment, still there’s a dusky quality to the purple core, the broad rims feature vivid red clay to sunset orange hues, visually not a brand new wine but nothing hear suggests its age. Sweet, primary and liqueur like nose of blackberry, raspberry, boysenberry, cherry fruit, lavender and garrigues, more delicate orange zest, follows up with milk chocolate, tea leaf and a brief wooliness, lacks earth or mineral elements, leans all but entirely on the gregarious fruit. Full-bodied, sappy and clingy enough that while expansive it’s not round nor soft in texture. Sufficient tannin to funnel it in a single direction, not all over the place. Here grill smoke, roasted meats and leather have the punch to match up with the cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit, the latter with moments of plum. The white grapefruit to orange citrus starts sweet and ends with a sour snap. Lower florality while the cocoa, mocha remains steady. Lush finish, fruit strong, almost leaves you wishing you could trade some for additional tertiary development. 75% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre. 91 points
Egly-Ouriet
Champagne, France
Grand Cru Millésimé Brut
Blend
1997
$64.99
12.0%
Maelstrom of raging bubbles reinvigorate the surface, hard to imagine greater aggressiveness, darkening bronzed orange color shows its age, good strength to the rims, average clarity, again the color and the perpetual fountain of bubbles offer most visual impact. The nose is compact but no less complex for it, bready with lilacs, orange marmalade, cane sugar, stone dust, the peach and apricot scents have a mild dried fruit concentration, for all of its moments of sweetness it is truly a lean, fighting machine. Medium-bodied, dry and acidic, juts its jaw out in defiance from the first sip. Tart orange, tangerine, lemon citrus, hint of herbaceousness to pair with the chalk and stone, the violets and lilacs pungent yet ground into a fine dust. The bread and honey find a consistent place while never seeking center stage. The is a more textbook representation of fine Champagne, has soul but lacks joyous abandon. Should perform particularly well with shellfish. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. (RM-21723-02, disgorged May 2003 (58 months)) (Composite Cork) 89 points
Steindorfer, Weingut Ernst
Burgenland, Austria
Trockenbeerenauslese Süss
Scheurebe
2001
$49.99
9.0%
Reddish copper in color, transparent while in no way lacking in vivid hue, segues to pumpkin orange and then a yellow tint along the rims, striking presence in the glass. The nose gives up vanilla custard, coconut and mint and then a steamroller of apricot, peach, nectarine, mango dried fruit scents, spread out waves of pink grapefruit and tangerine citrus, stays fresh for all of its weight in your nostrils. Full-bodied, incredibly ripe and succulent, the acidity is excellent and fights to keep the conversation on point. Pineapple, green apple, apricot, nectarine, guava fruit piles on like there’s a goal line stand happening. Rose and citrus blossom, sweet orange to tangerine notes abound. With all of its concentration stays open and able to stretch nimbly towards the finish. Brown sugar and molasses stay bright while increasing the sweetness factor. Has great posture and spine, in no way depends on sugar to get by. Lasts longer than War & Peace. 375 ml bottle. 93 points
Petrolo
Tuscany, Italy
Galatrona
Merlot
1997
$49.99
14.0%
Mild filminess to the red rust inflected purple core, quite broad brick red rims with a healthy orange cast, remains deeply saturated and colorful, clean surface, looks about its age maybe younger. In the nose you first notice the lively plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit but the oak quickly takes the lead, vanilla, coconut, dill, butterscotch in effect, the lavender pretties it up, a few moments of alcoholic burn, wisp of incense, texturally has a pungent “pregnant cloud” feel. Medium-bodied, comes across as it has lost volume and trimmed down, not always by choice. That said, likely better for it as its smooth and fluid nature creates attraction. The blueberry, plum, blackberry fruit juicy while tapering off towards the end. The caramel, cocoa, vanilla bean and toffee support, no longer the star. Some leather, cedar and grill smoke notes, same for sour orange and lemon accents. What makes it special is not any one flavor or such, more how it integrates so nicely, approachable while teasing you with hints of complexity. Not sure there’s a positive tradeoff for any loss of fruit, go for it now. 92 points
Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy), Domaine d’
Burgundy, France
Auxey-Duresses
Les Boutonniers
Chardonnay
1999
$74.99
13.0%
Just starting to shift into light amber, still a dark golden hue with a good deal of translucency, immaculately clean surface, overall harmonious and lively appearance, close to regal. The nose slowly builds to a crescendo, the fine oak toast, butter and tart lime to lemon zest keep it dancing with precision, vanilla softens it some, impressively smoky with a dry mineral powder component, the floral element shunted to the side, however, sufficient snap to the peach, apple, apricot fruit scents to keep them present always, at some times there’s a briny aspect, lifts with speed and authority. Medium-bodied, excellent traction across the palate, grips and releases, grips and releases. The acidity can dry yet chooses to pave the way for the stone powder and all that finely grained oak toast and freshly burnt butter. The lime, blood orange citrus percolates strongly through the mid-palate. As vanilla and butterscotch come through at the end, they buttress the peach, nectarine, apricot and light pineapple fruit. Mint and violets drift in momentarily. For all of its playing to sensory pleasure, its hallmark remains its subtle intelligence. 94 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Clos
Chardonnay
1999
$109.99
13.0%
Mild bronzing to the otherwise dark gold color, has both surface reflectivity and pooling into the glass, good hue strength through the rims, looks about just entering middle age. Very lemony nose with a big licorice component, floral with a core of apricot, peach fruit, moment of beeswax, cleansing and close to high-toned presence, softens as it warms and more dough and pastry flake notes appear. Full-bodied, broad yet wiry, the acidity punches energetically and there’s a dry dustiness from start to finish. Again, leads with citrus, here a mix of orange, lemon and lesser white grapefruit. Slowly blends in honey, molasses, cocoa and caramel, this without ever seeming sweet per se. Good amount of rose led florality, that anise to licorice and some mintiness. Even as it pushes chalk and saline qualities to the fore the yellow apple, peach, pear, apricot fruit cruises steadily throughout. The bready qualities are minor and it bespeaks more of genteel aging than premature oxidation. In a very fine place now, at once yielding and demure. 92 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Oberhäuser
Leistenberg
Auslese AP #15
Riesling
2001
$56.99
8.5%
Rich golden hue, very layered, bends light below the surface, holds on decently through the rims, looks as if it is advancing in age. Tangerine, lime and grapefruit burst forth in the nose, golden honey, rose dew, stone dust, the apricot, peach, pineapple, nectarine scents thick and close to dried fruit in nature, youthfully pungent and not showing much tertiary development yet. Full-bodied, sweet and close to heavy at times, drips with coconut custard, brown sugar and vanilla pudding in addition to the sugary lime, pink grapefruit, tangerine citrus, sparkly and tangy. There is actually very good acidity under all that weight, helps bring freshness and length through the finish. Huge pineapple, green apple, nectarine, papaya, apricot fruit element, lots of juicy reverb. As it warms and opens you get both a touch of rubber as well as salinity. A playful puppy, hard to imagine when it might begin to reveal meaningful development and clearly outlined complexity. 92 points
Egly-Ouriet
Champagne, France
Grand Cru Millésimé Brut
Blend
1996
$68.99
12.5%
Seriously dark golden color, very advanced, even given its age, super tiny bubbles loosely arrayed, no beads, average clarity, nothing to really comment on there. While the nose is solidly grounded in honey and sweet pastry flakes and bread dough, there is ample lemon and at times grapefruit citrus to stiffen its posture, more green apple and pear than apricot fruit scents, good deal of florality and some beeswax too, more pungent and solid than airy and fluid, overall leaves an impression of sweetness. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, the acidity truly saves the day as it would otherwise be too sweet and unfocused, instead it handles its honey, brown sugar, molasses well, the same for the croissant dough and challah bread notes. As in the nose, loaded with lemon and orange citrus, bright and sparkly. Switches to emphasis on peach, apricot, cherry, less green apple. The foaminess is decent but its weight tends to dampen the fizz. Through the finish the stone dust and minerals finally become apparent. This is a good time to pop open, if it loses structure you will just have fruit cocktail juice. 90% Pinot Noir, remainder Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier. (RM-21723-02, disgorged Juillet 2004 (85 months)) (Composite Cork) 90 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Barbara County, California
Colson Canyon Vineyard
Syrah
2005
$28.00
15.2%
Light duskiness to the purple core, helps to deepen it, effulgent ruby to scarlet red rims, no sign of sediment and not looking as a wine advancing in age. The nose is a tad flat, some mud and earth coated straw alongside the perfumed raspberry, red cherry fruit, then pork rinds, mesquite smoke and cocoa. Full-bodied and juicy, it does turn dry and puckering past the mid-palate but not really tannic enough to finger that aspect. Raspberry, boysenberry, blueberry, cherry fruit solid throughout, some dried fruit pastiness. Not a lot of oak, molasses, chocolate and caramelized brown sugar. Floral with some mixed grapefruit. More exuberance at first, starts to close up with air time. That noted, drinking well at the moment and not dishing out too many hints of hidden glories yet to be revealed. Enjoy it for its fruit. 89 points
Verset, Noël
Rhône, France
Cornas
Syrah
1999
$44.95
12.5%
Light purple blends with ruby and crimson in the core, very light without a hint of sediment, heavy scarlet rims, no fading there, only appears moderately aged. The nose crackles with life, ripe plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit, touch of vanilla and caramel, freshly mown grass, cow patties, dried white grapefruit peels, has a really muscular sort of florality, blends in white pepper and bacon fat, creates a deep cleansing sensation in your nostrils. Medium-bodied, very steady and perhaps even fattens in the center, the acidity comes at you in waves, tannin lurking around but not the driving force. Smoky with mesquite notes and that bacon to horsehide element, lots of damp minerally earth and merde but nothing truly reductive. Strong presence in the white grapefruit to lemon citrus. Boysenberry, cranberry, blackberry, cherry fruit lasts fully through the finish. Black licorice and chamomile add to the pungent inner mouth perfume. No signs of weakening here. 93 points
Mount Eden Vineyards
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Estate Bottled Table Wine
Chardonnay
1999
$29.99
The golden color is deepening but not quite bronze, fills the rims, pleasing shine but not insanely so, has settled into its age gracefully. Butterscotch, vanilla, caramel anchor the nose, you get poached peach, apricot, pear scents but no dried fruit character, strong minerally component, stone shards, lemon curd and tangerine rind, overall full without any heaviness. Medium-bodied, the acidity is buoyant and easily matches the toffee, butterscotch, caramel and coconut custard. Super-lively tangerine, mandarin orange with more citrus blossom and rose musk. Layered apricot, nectarine, peach, yellow apple fruit but no flab left. Gets nicely smoky at the end. Complete and matured, in no immediate danger of falling off, in control of itself. 93 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Preuses
Chardonnay
2004
$84.99
13.0%
Shiny white to yellow gold in color, highly reflective, the rims empty out but that shine is relentless, very youthful looking. Lots of chalky dust in the nose, bright lemon to orange zest, airy, at times salty, filled with ripe peach, apricot, pear fruit, dapper and well-mannered, light touch of honey, some mint and anise, lots of unforced length. Medium-bodied, the acidity is smooth and polished, it just flows so easily. Some brioche, challah bread, the honey is stronger here and sweetens the tangerine, lime, lemon citrus immensely. You get molasses now and then too. Focused apple, pear, peach, apricot, more ripe than juicy, spreads widely through the finish, friendly and open. Again, that mint, licorice, flowers fairly explode at the end. Drinking extremely well, not that tertiary but coming along. 93 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2012
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
1999
$26.99
13.0%
Immaculately clear, no sediment in the bottle shoulder either, burnt red to rust color, not much purple left, the rims really get all rusty orange and red but in no way dilute, well hued throughout. The nose has a fair amount of wood smoke, leather and meadow brush, nothing too “moist” in character although the cherry, raspberry, blackberry scents fully ripe, not horribly complex but what’s there sticks around. Medium-bodied, its broad shoulders suggest having lost some weight while the tannic skeleton still keeps good posture in the mouth. Here you get a white grapefruit punch to start things off, pairing up with grass, asparagus and green pepper notes, all of which are welcome and fit the whole. That leather, tar, packed dirt stuff ambles along thereafter. The fruit is plummy as in dense and full, not necessarily sweet, cherry and boysenberry, blackberry too. Gets nice and smoky at the end. Grows on you over time even if never profound. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder unspecified percentages of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. 89 points
Dal Forno, Azienda Agricola Romano
Veneto, Italy
Valpolicella Superiore
Blend
1997
$85.99
14.5%
Youthful and vivid ruby-violet core, presses into rich crimson to fresh blood red rims, dark enough for opacity but the liquid is clear of sediment, quite effulgent. The nose is thick and insistent, full of coconut, cocoa, vanilla then huge bell pepper, green olive, herbal qualities, has a menthol rub lift with tea leaves, you get leather and wet fur too, very skillful in how it weaves the oak into the hard nosed raspberry, red cherry, blackberry scents, not airy but it does lift. Medium-bodied, noticeably tannic, highlights its bark, leaf, forest earth elements, pine, licorice, cedar, leather and a burst of white grapefruit to orange citrus. Fully ripened plum/prune, cherry, blackberry fruit, dense throughout. Some makeup applied via ginger root, cinnamon, orange peel accents. Holds its weight nimbly and keeps its shoulders squared through the end. The herbal aspect really enlivens the finish. Hyperactive and stays on you like nobody’s business. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella. 91 points
Vajra, G.D.
Piedmont, Italy
Langhe Bianco
Riesling
2007
$37.99
14.0%
Shiny, as well as layered, white gold color, some green flecks, clear enough, the rims thin out noticeably. Salty nose with pear, green apple, peach fruit, flowers, mint, fairly relaxed and not pushy, spreads well with orange and tangerine zest, openly knit and drifts away easily. Light to medium-bodied, the acidity is fine, however, not so bright nor penetrating. Still, fresh and lively overall, the notes of saline and chalk dust keep it dry in a friendly way. Crunchy green to yellow apple, pear, apricot fruit. At times somewhat smoky. More solid than complex, trails off a touch at the end. 87 points
Valentini, Azienda Agricola
Abruzzi, Italy
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Trebbiano
2000
$49.99
12.0%
Soft golden glow, a touch flat, not much shine, the rims empty, really not that aged visually, especially given the dried out state of the cork. Soft nose, not so expressive, green melon, pear, yellow apple fruit, mixes in mint, fresh herbs, orange peel and some cane sugar, does a good job of filling out texturally. Medium-bodied, dry with a slight dusty quality, there’s a dried fruit edge to the peach, apricot, pear, apple fruit which helps deepen the flavors. Light coating of cinnamon and nutmeg spice, some lemon to orange pith too. The acidity is like a smooth river bed, has things flowing smoothly along. Overall has a quiet and steady presence with a swell of honey and brown sugar before ending with nuances of quinine and mineral water. Interesting in an unthreatening way, better at room temperature. Perhaps not the most representative bottle. 88 points
Valentini, Azienda Agricola
Abruzzi, Italy
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Cerasuolo
Montepulciano
2000
$49.99
14.5%
Washed out red rust in color with a strong metallic orange touch, only semi-filmy, the surface is nice and sleek, nothing remotely pink or ruby to see. Expanding nose of raspberry, strawberry, cherry fruit accompanied by licorice, mint, menthol then basil and oregano, candied oranges, even a few whiffs of green apples, and moments of milk chocolate as well as lemongrass, all over the map but it settles in as if it all belongs together. Full-bodied, reclines broadly across the tongue but not soft. The orange, tangerine, lemon citrus is tangy with more pulp than peel. More of that chocolate and rosemary, thyme here in addition to anise and rose petals. The acidity plows into the mouth then backs off, actually after time it feels like the tannin which takes control. Caramelized brown sugar, molasses crisp sweetens things, moves into richer butterscotch. Matured, an unassuming complexity that shifts with each sip. 91 points
Egly-Ouriet
Champagne, France
Grand Cru Brut Rosé
Blend
NV
$53.99
12.5%
You get a decent foam upon the pour, after that hyperactive bubbles all but totally fill the glass and renew the surface turbulence. The pink is segueing to a bright metallic orange, the rims empty out some, nice depth of hue overall though. Bready nose, croissant flakes with golden honey notes, healthy dose of lemon to lime citrus zest, stiffens the cherry, apricot, red apple fruit scents, there’s an attractive underlying minerality that at times gets close to herbal, especially as it warms. Full-bodied, the acidity is broad and round rather than pinpoint, has active pétillance without being heavy handed. The lemon sparkles even as it has a concentrated to reduction side, more of that croissant and danish quality with a smattering of cocoa dust. The raspberry, cherry, apple, pear, apricot fruit most effective upfront, experience turns dry and chalky by the finish. While the flavors display buoyancy, the total experience is of a maturing wine settled into itself. This is about as good a time as any to toss it back. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. (Lot 49, disgorged Juillet 2005 (37 months)) (Composite Cork) 90 points
Karlsmühle, Weingut
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Kaseler
Nies’chen Patheiger
Long Gold Kapsule Auslese AP #15
Riesling
2001
$47.99
7.0%
Really dark bronzed gold color, almost like a block of amber, full through to the rims, a few clusters of bubbles cling to the glass sides, hard to imagine a richer appearance. The nose is all brown sugar, honey, molasses and thick tangerine, orange, pink grapefruit pulp, layers upon layers there, then comes the slabs of apricot, peach, nectarine, pineapple, dried fruit consistency, vague smokiness but not real presence of stone, minerals, any potential rubber element also absent. Full-bodied, like past glued to your palate, sticky and syrupy and not going to be washed out by any hose you choose. Honey poured generously over the sparkling pink grapefruit, lime, tangerine citrus, spilling over onto the papaya, pineapple, mango, apricot fruit, highly concentrated. Here there’s floral dew and ginger, the spoonful of whipped cream rests gently on top. The acidity is a little soft and could stand up for itself more. No stone nor minerals but there’s the touch of lactose and rubber. If you want a sledgehammer of citrus and fruit, this is for you. 91 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
1998
$59.99
14.0%
Clear overall, the core is more black and brick red than purple, shifts to a metallic rust red and orange towards the rims, quite reflective and yet brooding, looks like a lot is weighing on its mind. Sugary nose, close to aligning with prune, date and raisin over blackberry, blueberry, plum, cherry scents, mocha, coffee and caramel appear at the same time as animal fur and tarry earth, some olive pit too, the pressed flowers unsteady, remains primary and sappy, more enjoyable than intriguing. Medium to full-bodied, very smoothly layered, moves at a nice pacing, over time orange, tangerine citrus appears. Given its soft roundness there is decent bite at the end, here staves off dried fruit in favor of blackberry, boysenberry, blueberry, raspberry. The molasses, brown sugar, caramel not too aggressive. Hints of leather, tar, wool, olives but these not gaining significant traction. Adequate acidity, no sign of mentionable tannin. Remains a plump, juicy pleaser, that said, does not leave one with the impression that something impressive will replace the fruit when it eventually fades. Gulp heartily now. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah. 90 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côtes du Rhône Brézème
Syrah
2000
$14.99
12.5%
Very little purple left in the core, all red to orange rust, while it is cloudy there’s no visible sediment to speak of, the rims are somewhat dilute, overall there’s an attractively warm glow while it looks its age. Sea salt, dried beef, olive pits, white grapefruit, has solid florality but the cherry, cranberry, blackberry scents haphazard, jabs at you when they are there. Medium-bodied, gains flesh with air time, the acidity creates a raw mouth feel, also keeps the pacing swift. The tapenade, white pepper, minerals, grapefruit, tar and graphite create a super-lively character, more leather and horse hide here than beef jerky. The core of sour cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit there, just pushed into the background. Its aggressiveness throws it off balance at times, still, have to admire the tenacity. Stains the palate and lasts extremely long. (Synthetic Cork) 89 points
Spreitzer, Weingut Josef
Rheingau, Germany
Oestricher
Lenchen
Spätlese “303” AP #21
Riesling
2002
$37.99
8.0%
Noticeably dark golden hue while at the same time very shiny and bright, some bending of light below the surface but very clear, holds decently through the rims, good amount of dispersed bubbles cling to the glass sides. Big, boisterous nose of pineapple, guava, nectarine and green apple fruit accompanied by brown sugar, orange reduction and mint, light but of chalk or sea salinity but no meaningful minerality or stoniness, plump and primary yet. Full-bodied, the acidity is actually pretty good but the primary material is so ripe and sugary there’s little to be done before the finish. Pink grapefruit, tangelo citrus, brown sugar, vanilla, mint and roses start things off but it’s the pineapple, passion fruit, nectarine, guava, apricot which commands attention. More salinity here, at the same time you get a solid dose of soft rubber too. Fills the mouth cheek to cheek, screw subtle complexity this is just pure fun to drink. 92 points
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Estate
Essence
Petite Sirah
2001
$33.99
14.2%
While the core is a dark and opaque purple, further out you see how clean and spotless the liquid is, clear if brooding rims of red rust, dried blood and orange, youthfully hued. The nose is not as full as expected, noticeable restraint in the plum/prune, raisin, fig scents, hits you with blackberry and green apple as well, cinnamon and nutmeg spice, zip of pine, orange reduction, milk chocolate, overall relaxed and confident. In the mouth it’s full-bodied while svelte and fluid, in no way overly sugary yet it’s difficult to discern any real tannin or acid presence. Brown sugar and molasses adorn the plum, cherry, blackberry, blueberry fruit, so close to dried fruit but not quite. Cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, orange blossom, chocolate, coffee, close fidelity to the nose. Soft finish, stains the palate but could make a bolder statement. Basically, a low alcohol port styled wine that you wouldn’t mind a glass of with a cigar. 75% Petite Sirah, 25% Zinfandel. 375 ml bottle. 90 points
Martinelli
Russian River Valley, California
Jackass Vineyard
Zinfandel
1999
$50.00
15.9%
While basically purple the core no longer has a dark saturated character, plenty of red brick and rust in there, the rims are transparent and semi-washed out, light garnet to zinc albeit no yellowing nor browning, would not likely peg it as a Zinfandel visually. Plummy nose with its fair share of prune and date, blackberry syrup, at times you get a curious whiff of green apple too, ginger and cinnamon spice with candied orange peel, menthol rub, a touch of molasses, oak presence low, alcohol burn close to nonexistent and only real mar is suggestion of tomato skin. Medium to full-bodied, thick mid-section but has slimmed down, ginger, clove, anise and pressed roses forestall the golden raisin, date, prune and then plum, cherry fruit flavors. Again, no burn but certainly “heady.” Mesquite grill smoke, molasses and caramel help glue it to the palate. Has a briery, meadowy feel, not really earthy nor leafy. Orange and grapefruit citrus activate retronasally at the end. The finish itself does lose some grip but nothing you wouldn’t expect. Leaves you impressed by its balance. 91 points
Gallet, Henri et Philippe
Rhône, Franc
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$57.99
12.5%
Clear liquid, no sediment in the bottle shoulder, dull purple to red clay hued core, barely shifts into dried blood and orange rust around the rims, has a warm glow and good overall depth of color. The nose chock full of beef jerky, iodine, dried leaves, olive pits and dried white grapefruit rinds, dusts the cherry, pomegranate, raspberry scents with burnt cocoa powder, texturally jabs and darts more than present a deep consistency. Medium-bodied, for all of its wickedly strong acidity the sweetness in the core of raspberry, cherry, watermelon, cranberry fruit is undeniable, likewise helps that grapefruit to blood orange citrus spread widely. The tree bark, leaves and forest earth comes through, some tar and tapenade as well. The saltiness accrues with each sip, increases the interplay of sweet and savory. Some minor band-aid to matchstick notes. Holds its body fully through the finish. This bottle showing very nicely, better than another a few months back. 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier. 92 points
Chantemerle (A&F Boudin), Domaine de
Burgundy, France
Chablis
l’Homme Mort
Chardonnay
2004
$34.99
12.5%
Basic golden base, on the light side but not dilute, minor green flecks, surface not that shiny, the rims loss most of what color was in the core, nothing here visually suggests an aging wine. The nose has some punch but lacks in depth, decent smokiness, stone dust, the green apple, pear, peach scents all skin and pits, the florality fills it in some, along with whipped cream and orange citrus shades, no sign of premature oxidation, it’s just that there’s no “boom” nor resonance, perhaps in a dumb phase. Medium-bodied, the acidity more like a thick blanket than sharp blade, very dry with kick coming from the orange, grapefruit citrus and herbaceous streak, the stone to chalk element stays neutral. Some quinine, tonic water notes. Not much fruit, some pear, apple, peach, nectarine, however, it’s not necessarily missed. The smokiness could actually stand to be more aggressive. At times cocoa and vanilla drift through. Interesting wine, gains more personality closer to room temperature. Leaves you thinking this was not the time to pull the cork. 88 points
Murrieta, Bodegas Marqués de
Rioja, Spain
Castillo Ygay
Gran Reserva Especial
Tempranillo
1994
$32.99
13.0%
Very clear and transparent diluted purple with brick red and scarlet coloration, very slight orange outer rims, sleek and reflective surface. Light airy nose of green apple, red cherry, raspberry fruit, clean with a slight candied nature, sweet tea leaves, orange peel, basil and mint, lighter leather and muddy earth, very serene and consistent presence, dissolves with regal gentleness. Light-bodied, has lost a considerable amount of body, lets the bones shine through as well as bringing the acidity into the foreground. The tannin is ground into a gritty dust, cakes up now and then. Cedar, driftwood, vanilla powder, ginger and cumin, it’s all dry while at the same time retaining that hard candy cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit core, aided by that green apple as well as orange to lemon zest. Here the herbaceousness grows and grows, earthy with some minerally bite. Creates a musky cloud of perfume inside the mouth that outlasts the body weight. 76% Tempranillo, 14% Garnacha, 7% Mazuelo, 3% Graciano. 89 points
Pride Mountain
Napa Valley, California
Reserve Claret
Blend
1998
$110.00
14.1%
While not filmy there is a flatness to the red clay to blackish purple core, albeit clear throughout and with deep orange to red burnt rims, definitely looks its age though not lacking hue per se. The nose is slimmed down to core essentials, cedar, dill, potpourri, leather, saddle soap and hard candy to liqueur in feel cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit, concentrated yet lacking in breadth, maybe some caramel popcorn otherwise little sweet oak evident. Medium-bodied, not overly stuffed but does hold its weight from start to finish, here the sweet candied nature of the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit really sings. The tannin is mild, comes across as more structured by acidity. This brings out orange to grapefruit accents to pair with the pressed flowers, cedar and incense. In turn the oaky caramel, butterscotch and molasses gains deeper traction even if it never loses a sour pucker at the end. Pine and menthol freshness creates lift as you swallow. Just taut enough to be able to admire the bone structure, no unnecessary flesh. 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. 92 points
Hiedler, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Maximum
Grüner Veltliner
2001
$33.99
13.5%
Dark bronze in color, beyond just deepened gold, that said, remains shiny while pooling deep into the glass, bends light in the center, considerable dropoff around the rims. The nose is dense and long, slugs its way into your nostrils and defies you to hit back, pineapple, guava, mango, nectarine, green apple and peach fruit pairs with pink grapefruit and tangerine citrus for a vividly ripe experience, the smokiness requires time to find space, snap peas and jalapeño juice ratchet up the energy, conversely there’s a whipped cream element which softens some of the brunt, even at this stage in its evolution remarkably primary. Full-bodied, creamy mouth entry framed by vanilla pudding, whipped cream, mint and baking spices. Slowly the pink and white grapefruit, blood orange citrus revs up, tangy and equally sweet and sour. White pepper and green grass, snap peas keep it on its toes and here some minerality does peek through. The acidity puts in a hard day’s work. More verve than delineation in the pineapple, star fruit, kumquat, guava, nectarine fruit, too hyper to soak in. Spicy and in perpetual motion, impossible to ignore. 93 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Ynez Valley, California
Larner Vineyard
Syrah
2004
$27.99
15.2%
The core remains mostly purple with a red-ruby influence, the liquid clear and free of sediment which creates transparency in support of the brick to rust red hued rims, looks like a wine just a few years old. The nose comes across as close to candied, drips with molasses, honey, butterscotch and orange reduction in addition to blackberry, raspberry, blueberry and some cherry scents, the florality strong but eventually cloaked by charred meats and grill smoke, at first a few reductive notes which blow off with air. Full-bodied, plush and more soft than structured, any tannin feels wood based and the acidity is slight. Yet, its heft creates mouth presence and the juicy unto jammy raspberry, strawberry, rhubarb and blueberry fruit glues it to the palate. Vanilla fudge, milk chocolate, caramel, butterscotch and maple syrup continue the trend, that woodiness though creates an astringent pucker at the end. The orange and grapefruit citrus sweet, brings an iced tea and at time cola to soft drink quality. Very light dried beef jerky, tar or sous bois accents, at this stage still relies on primary material for effect. Showing admirably but it’s not going anywhere from where it’s at. 89 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Vieilles Vignes
Blend
2001
$34.99
14.0%
Filmy and semi-opaque core of orange and red rust tinged purple, the rims somewhat flat and dilute, mainly orange and red clay in hue, the surface is in contrast very reflective. The nose has an earthy, wooly quality as the Mourvèdre is quite evident, mild barnyard funk covered over by milk chocolate, lavender and sweet tea leaves, in turn the gamey accents spar well with the dense, if not longlasting, raspberry, blackberry, red cherry fruit scents, overall marked mostly by its fullness and opposing elements. Full-bodied, very masculine in style, even reticent at times which may or may not explain the shortness of the finish. Tannins still active and throwing punches, the acidity actually helps to smooth out the former. Clearer floral side here, more orange citrus and sweet herbs and tea leaves too, the cocoa less present. Tar, asphalt, pebbles and wood smoke rise through the mid-palate. There’s obvious ripeness in the strawberry, raspberry, watermelon, blackberry fruit, at times jammy in texture if not sweetness, develops more length with additional air time. Meaty and leathery, not a wine of finesse, however, does keep coming up with interesting things to say. 75% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre. 90 points
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
1998
$28.99
13.0%
Clear crimson-black core, little purple left, burnt sunset red and then rust orange furthest out, noticeably vivid and lively, lots of vigor in the color. There’s a smoky, leafy, earthy quality to the nose, cedar and balsam, tea leaf, garrigues, dried citrus peels, fair amount of juiciness left in the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit, pushes their shoulder into getting forward. Full-bodied, round with good density, does dry out by the finish and lose some weight, tannins seem mostly resolved and just leave a powdery residue behind. The flowers, while still dry, create perfume, no lack of tar, tea leaf, earth, cedar, tree bark too, less citrus. The fruit starts off close to candied or dried fruit in feel, raspberry, red cherry, blackberry, than trails off into a slightly bitter ending. Each sip tastes differently, making it a hard wine to assess. In the end, and as a whole, it is better than the words of the description may sound. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder unspecified percentages of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto. 89 points
Sanguine Estate
Victoria, Australia
Heathcote
Shiraz
2003
$59.99
14.8%
It’s not quite filmy but perhaps dusky, deepens an otherwise transparent purple core, the rims are crimson to blood red with a wet rust hue furthest out, no sediment showing on the inside of the bottle shoulders. The nose spreads forth with mint, eucalyptus, orange spritz, cinnamon and molasses coated bacon, while the fruit scents evoke plum and ripe cherries they are not that longlasting allowing for herbal notes and the alcohol to peek through before it all blows away. Medium-bodied, very solid without movement or flow, quickly settles on the palate. Blueberry syrup blends with raspberry, boysenberry, cherry fruit, more “berry” than plum here, attributable in part to the acidity which carves away the flab. More leather and cow hide than bacon, minerally at turns as well. The oak comes across as burnt wood and smokiness rather than anything sweeter. The mint is lower, replaced by graham cracker and ginger. Very enjoyable and with tertiary development, still, the diminishing of the fruit shines light on its inherent flaws. 89 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montmain
Chardonnay
2003
$48.00
12.5%
Deepened golden hue, nowhere near looking its age, shiny with clear, transparent rims, sits well in the glass. The nose has a powerful floral dimension along with honey and orange citrus, mild smokiness, the peach, apricot, melon scents more full than juicy, texturally heavy and without lift, elements do not separate much. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and layered, sufficient acidity to avoid sluggishness. Sugary with dough and honey notes but no signs of premature oxidation, however, it does possess a semi-bitter bite which bespeaks of phenolic underripeness. The apricot, yellow apple, peach, pineapple fruit frontloaded and has mostly evacuated by the finish. Sour orange to grapefruit citrus helps extend the flavor profile. Some quinine and seashell accents but not a lot of minerality per se. It’s decent enough but that bitterness distracts considerably over time. 86 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$45.00
14.2%
Crimson tinged purple core, has good clarity given the amount of crud on the cork bottom, wide scarlet to red clay rims, looks about its age and has likely lost contrast from core further out. There’s some muddy earth and fallen forest matter to the nose but the spotlight is on the juicy cherry, currant an plum fruit scents, curious mix of chocolate and peanut butter, then menthol and basil and rosemary, attractive complexity while easily accessible, ends with a whiff of lemon Pledge. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and comes across as if it has shed some weight, cedar, saddle soap, wildflowers, herbs and a shot of stoniness and poor dirt. The raspberry, red currant, red cherry fruit has a somewhat high-toned demeanor, more likely to sprint than rub up against you. The oak is close to crispy yet not much coming through here, smoky inner mouth perfume. The tannins build over repeated sips without gaining undue sway. Tries real hard to be suave and at the end of the day you want to acknowledge the effort. Grapes sourced from the Morisoli Vineyard and Herb Lamb Vineyard. 91 points
Lokoya
Napa Valley, California
Diamond Mountain
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$100.00
14.6%
Very clear and sleek in appearance, that said, its color shows a well aged wine, the core leached of violet leaving black, brown and cough syrup red in its place, the rims are broad with brick red and strong orange and then yellow tint, very appealing visually. Highly pungent nose of salt lick, iodine, leather, cedar, balsam wood then huge floral lift and hard candy cherry and black raspberry scents, stays consistent and full of life. Medium-bodied, however, very sappy in texture and clings to the insides of your cheeks as well as tongue. The cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit sweet and youthful, turns smoky at the end even as it maintains a fruit pie quality. Sweet cedar, incense, spiced orange peel, cinnamon, the oak is toasty and lowkey, slight hint of dill. The tannins ground to a fine dusting, yet able to create impression of structure and frame a punctuated finish. While not likely to improve, who could ask for more? 94 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Barbara County, California
L’Ange Rouge
Grenache
2005
$32.00
15.4%
Very clear with a fair degree of violet in the core but it’s mainly cough syrup red to ruby and then a more rust hue around the rims, general color suggests some age otherwise it’s immaculate in appearance. The nose has this weird high-toned, semi-astringent nature, like it pulls away from you, in spite of this decent amount of cherry, raspberry, strawberry scents, lemon peel, licorice, good dose of grassiness in there, straw bundles, light dusting of cocoa, some stones like maybe, really marked most by the lack of complexity and roughhewn nature. Full-bodied, good weight but unbalanced, dry with powdery tannin and some alcoholic headiness if not heat. The strawberry, watermelon, raspberry fruit clearly diminished. The lemon to orange citrus haphazard in support. Cocoa and ginger mutter in the background. Here it’s more stemmy than grassy. Actually quite disconcerting. You can tell it leaned hard in its youth on the vibrancy of fruit without much consideration for what should come forth to replace that fruit as it receded over time. 86 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2012
Gross, Weingut
Steiermark/Styria, Austria
Sulz
Sauvignon Blanc
2001
$25.99
13.5%
Pale white to yellow hay in color, transparent, not particularly shiny, the rims empty of any hue, nothing visually suggests a wine of its age. The nose fills with lemon to grapefruit pulp and juice, a solid herbaceous twist but not much stoniness nor minerality, some lighter shades of mint or flowers, but after a momentary push of apricot, pineapple and peach fruit it’s all about the citrus, one-dimensional. Medium-bodied plus, a noticeable lack of acidity hampers freshness while also allowing the density to accrue. The more sweet than sour grapefruit, lemon, lime citrus here too leads the way, followed on by pineapple, green apple, peach notes, albeit not fruity per se. Some vanillin, creamy accents alongside the mint or licorice. The herbaceousness best expressed retronasally, contributes to the soft mouth feel. Remains quite full through the finish. Having no real frame of reference for what it “should” taste like at this stage, it’s simply an enjoyable quaff and naught else. 87 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Lirac
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
2001
$31.99
14.0%
The liquid is very clear, even when you see the thick sediment lining one side of the bottle, a certain blackness pervades the fading purple core, more of a crimson to blood red towards the rims, hint of orange but not strong, exquisitely reflective surface. The nose brings equal measure of cocoa and tilled earth, light funk, while the cherry to blackberry fruit has a strong plumminess to it, not particularly longlasting, the flowers and licorice extend further. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with a hollow center, slightly astringent tannin and an overall dryness. That said, there’s some natural fluidity to the raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit and fine accompaniment by flowers, chocolate, anise, leather before hitting you a cow pattie or two. There’s more than a few moments of pleasure here but little coheres into a greater and consistent whole. Just about at the end of the plateau. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah. 87 points
Voge, Alain
Rhône, France
Cornas
Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
1998
$37.99
12.5%
Light violet in color, mostly red-ruby, very clean and full through the rims, transparent, doesn’t look very aged. Slight metallic, iodine touch to the nose, cherry cough drops, light animal fur accents, still overall much cleaner than expected, very pure and linear. Medium-bodied, dry and somewhat tannic. Peppery and herbaceous, tarry earth, red complexion to the fruit, cherry and raspberry. Gears up the leather and animal fur, not so much merde, then ends with grapefruit and sour oranges. Decent acidity helps push it across the finish line. Sweetens a little as it opens with air. About where it should be, perhaps a bit light on the palate. 89 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côtes du Rhône Brézème
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2000
$19.99
12.5%
Mild violet to cranberry red in hue, the rims show ruby but not much crimson or advanced coloration. Has a fat nose of blackberry, raspberry, black cherry fruit, herbaceous and peppery, saddle leather and lavender, pretty good lift, however, more full than airy. Medium-bodied, very acidic and brisk, serving up grapefruit, tar, leather, pepper, green olives, the last element really pops out over time. The cherry, blackberry fruit is tight and penetrating, some band-aid, iodine and salt accents. Tough-minded but not ruthless, effortlessly solid length. 89 points
Bea, Azienda Agricola Paolo
Umbria, Italy
Pagliaro
Santa Chiara
Blend
2004
$33.99
13.5%
Alternately shiny and filmy, as if it can’t make up its mind what it wants to look like, advanced golden hue, holds decently through the rims. Spiced orange peel, mint, flowers and yellow apple, pear to peach fruit on the nose, overall a touch reticent and slow to speak. Full-bodied, spicy with ginger, coriander notes, candied orange and grapefruit, very citrusy, flower water, and consistent apple, peach, nectarine, melon fruit. The acidity is not soft but is instead giving, allows for fluidity but also some welcome rougher textures. Offers up vanilla, whipped cream, roses, very long and full, no dropoff at the end. Perhaps some increasing earthiness as it opens and warms, gains grip as well. Unspecified percentages of Grechetto, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Garganega. 91 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2004
$47.99
13.0%
Rich golden hue, has noticeably darkened, transparent with a light gauziness, drops off appreciably at the rims, okay surface shine, nondescript for that deepening gold. There is a yeasty, doughy quality to the nose that stops short of suggesting premature oxidation, the active tangerine and lemon zest to quinine and mineral dust accents provide get up and go, dusting of brown sugar on top of the ripe peach, apricot, melon fruit scents, has sufficient heft to linger for some time. In the mouth it’s medium to full-bodied, sweet and zesty pucker from the grapefruit, tangerine, lemon citrus, quite dominant, floral too with honey dappled breads. The stones and minerals there, while woven in so as to be indistinct. The acidity blankets and muffles more than pierces. The fruit takes on a pineapple, nectarine bite to accompany the peach, apricot, apple base. At times almost minty. There’s something about it that feels transitional, like it is not finished evolving into what it wants to be. Concurrently, you worry that if you waited for that, the premox would indeed catch up from behind. So, take it as it is. Which ain’t all bad. 89 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Vieilles Vignes
Blend
1999
$29.99
13.5%
Light filminess to an otherwise transparent liquid, the purple disappearing in the face of crimson and orange rust hues, the coloration seems normal rather than aged in appearance, nicely vivid. The nose is full of wet straw and grasses, damp earth, dried grapefruit peels, wool and leather, brief waft of garrigues, light hard candy aspect to the strawberry, raspberry, rhubarb fruit scents, more density and punch than overt sugariness. Medium-bodied, the acidity creates a wild whiplash effect that cleanses away the stickiness in the tar, earth, leather, wool and matted straw notes. The white grapefruit and orange citrus is super sour and puckering. The raspberry, red cherry, strawberry fruit zingy and has more thrust than length. Some merde and barnyard echoes at the end, a “vin de garde” styled wine that can stand up to all kinds of food while not going to show best on its own. Not much sense in waiting here. 75% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre. 90 points
Durand, Eric et Joël
Rhône, France
Cornas
Syrah
1999
$26.99
13.5%
Mild duskiness to the otherwise clean red ruby to violet colored liquid, more crimson to brick red around the rims, touch of orange, nothing remotely suggests a wine of its age. The nose carries a lot of heft, floral dew, orange citrus pulp and generous plum, cherry and red currant fruit with a tart edge, more meadow field grasses and boulders than stones, minerals or forest floor dampness, something like pine there, on the primary side without many hints at what may develop. Full-bodied, thick attack, perhaps makes the attenuation and dryness through the finish more pronounced. Not that tannic but there is a stemminess at the end. Otherwise, ripely sour cherry, cranberry, red currant, pomegranate fruit with solidly accompanying white grapefruit citrus. Light oak toast, some caramel hard candy. The stoniness speaks up more here. It’s difficult to wrap your mind around the plumpness of the fruit and whether that’s all it was intended to have, even this far out. Damn tasty, though, even with that stumble at the end. 89 points
Hazyblur
South Australia, Australia
Adelaide Plains
Shiraz
2002
$29.99
14.0%
Deep ruby inflected purple core, as equally clean as dark, minimal sediment, more of a crimson to burnt orange at the rims, however, youthful still in appearance. Thickly layered nose of orange/grapefruit reduction, milk chocolate, caramel, eucalyptus, the plum, cassis, black cherry fruit scents just this side of prune, heavy floral dew, for all of this it does not feel burdensomely ponderous. Full-bodied, dense here too but has credible acidity and remains nimble for its weight. Alongside the sweet and sour white grapefruit, orange citrus is a semi-salty dried meat element as well as garden herbs, flowers and eucalyptus. The oak less evident here, mild butterscotch and molasses tones. The blueberry, blackberry, plum fruit more dense than sugary. General savoriness creates drier impression through the finish. Capable of developing further yet fully rewarding now. 91 points
Richter, Weingut Max Ferd.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr
Spätlese AP #14
Riesling
2001
$14.99
8.0%
Rich golden hue, holds light nicely yet still comes off a bit flat, strong through the rims where you get some green tint yet. Overall the nose has a semi-creamy texture, lots of soft rubber going on, vanilla pairs with the orange, pink grapefruit, lime citrus notes to create a sherbet effect, lots of cherry fruit alongside the peach, apricot and pear, too soft to turn tropical, develops a mild smokiness but not a lot of minerality nor stoniness to be had. Medium-bodied, the acidity is average, works hard to get what effect it has, achieves some erectness by the finish. The marshmallow, vanilla component here too pairs well with a cavalcade of sugary tangerine, lime, pink grapefruit citrus. Full ripeness found in the peach, nectarine, apricot, pear, green melon fruit. Streamwater and wet stone notes fare better, pitch in for that drier ending. The rubber recedes a little, never gets near petrol. More than just a “fun” wine yet by the same token no paragon of tertiary development. Just chug and roll with what you got. 89 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret
Vieilles Vignes
Grenache
2000
$12.99
14.5%
Warm and cloudy purple to red ruby colored core, full rims stay bright red with the slightest suggestion of orange, allowing for the overall murkiness nothing here looks remotely like its age. Ripe and jammy scents of raspberry, strawberry, red cherry and pomegranate dominate the nose, accompanied by orange peel, cinnamon, chocolate accents as well as an underlying funkiness and band-aid notes, expansive and close to fat at times. Full-bodied, round but not soft, shows above average structure and for all its ripeness ends dry, if not slightly dusty. Frontloaded with sugary strawberry, raspberry, watermelon, cherry fruit and orange to grapefruit citrus. The cocoa and baking spice elements recede here. As does the funk, to a point. It’s really not distracting but you kind of have to enjoy these sort of things to be down with this wine. Keeps its weight fully through the finish. Not that evolved and likely not to change much either, you can finger the alternative closure or not, depending on the stories you like to tell. (Synthetic Cork) 89 points
Spreitzer, Weingut Josef
Rheingau, Germany
Oestricher
Lenchen
Erstes Gewächs AP #34
Riesling
2002
$29.99
12.5%
While you could argue that the golden core is deepening some with age, there’s still plenty of green to white gold tint to go around and it’s plenty transparent, really doesn’t look its age. The nose doesn’t give up much, at first a mixture of freshly churned butter and butterscotch, spiced orange peel, pineapple, nectarine and green apple fruit scents than a slight breeze of violets, minimal display of minerals or stones. Full-bodied, woven pretty tightly but comes across as its nature not a product of relative youth per se. The vanilla, whipped cream and butterscotch remain big here, the orange citrus expands into more tart white grapefruit territory too. On the whole dry, the acidity more of a brawler than precise puncher. Presents a bigger metallic ring here yet still not what you’d call a terroir driven wine. The apple, pineapple, passion fruit flavors piercing, lack of juiciness shortens it some. More intense than generous, air time and warming do little to temper this. 88 points
Potel, Nicolas
Burgundy, France
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Genevrières
Pinot Noir
1999
$18.99
12.5%
The purple in the core falling away in favor of crimson and rust red, clear and dusky rather than cloudy, the color betrays some age but otherwise you sense vigor and power. The nose is a leather-a-thon, like sucking on the side of a horse, then metallic earth, burnt qualities, tree bark, dried shitake mushrooms, roasted cherry, blackberry fruit scents, the lemon peel and flowers are a lighter presence, has a certain toughness about it, yet, not entirely resistant to being approached. Medium-bodied, the acidity and tannin still rule the roost, anchors the sauvage qualities, dry feel while the smoky raspberry, red cherry, cranberry fruit thrusts across the palate with serious energy. The white grapefruit, lemon citrus juicy while also having tang and zest. Given the wet leather, damp earth, iron flecks, leaves, enjoyable for how it can spotlight the fruit while allowing much room for the earthier elements. 90 points
Cotat, François
Loire, France
Sancerre
Chavignol Rosé
Pinot Noir
2004
$29.99
12.5%
Metallic orange to rusty pink in color, moderate clarity but not really shiny, the depth helps fill in the rims. Slight dollop of honey to the nose, some sherry like notes, sour cherry, raspberry, pomegranate fruit, lemon peel, crushed stones with a minerally inflection, dusty spices, has definitely softened and fattened up. Medium-bodied, the acidity still kicking some serious ass although no longer liable to rip the enamel off your teeth. Gives up orange, lemon peel with healthy dose of stones and minerals, distinct dough to baked bread qualities too. The raspberry, red cherry, strawberry, watermelon fruit sour and bracing. Has some herbaceous qualities and dried herbs, brings more tang to the end. Very muscular but is yielding. Given its fruit level no real reason to push it further, might as well pop ’em. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2012
Pride Mountain
Napa Valley, California
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$110.00
14.4%
Some black to the purple core yet curiously clear and close to transparent around the crimson to sunset red rims, lack of sediment makes for an impression of cleanliness and youth. Hyper juicy and overripe blackberry, blueberry, cherry scents, big cedar and meadow grasses with brown sugar, wildflowers, molasses and a little bit of dill, otherwise it’s just a big, youthful, juicy Cab unevolved and full of sweet oak. In the mouth it’s full-bodied but clearly as shed weight and sweetness, coming into balance with cedar, sour lemon to orange zest, loamy earth, wet forest matter, accompanied by cocoa, chocolate, nuts and hard toffee. The herbal element starts to accelerate through the finish but nothing like green pepper. It is clear that the blackberry, black cherry, raspberry fruit is still sweet and juicy but has crested and heading down (as opposed to the impression left by the nose). Tangy, semi-puckering finish. 98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot. 92 points
San Luigi, Podere
Tuscany, Italy
Fidenzio
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$39.99
13.5%
Opaque black, hardly any purple in there, the rims are a heavy brick red, burnt crimson hue, serious saturation, very good surface shine. Strives for a high-toned presence in the nose, menthol and mint, orange blossom, cedar and leather, then comes dark chocolate alongside plum, black cherry, blackberry scents, incredible ripeness and given its weight has highly credible lift. Full-bodied, satiny and smooth yet with a firm tannic spine to bring heft. Very floral, orange spritz, eucalyptus, wet cedar, sandalwood incense, driftwood, and minimal oak presence. The plum, currant, black cherry fruit going very strong and showing youthful vigor, kicks confidently across the finish line. The citrus keeps resurfacing at the end. Nice tingle on the tongue. Recognizable as Cabernet Sauvignon but not simplistic in just being a Cab. Plenty of upside left. 91 points
Latour, Domaine Louis
Burgundy, France
Corton-Charlemagne
Chardonnay
2004
$79.99
14.0%
The color is starting to deepen into a rich golden hue, still remains very shiny with vestiges of a vague green tint, decent strength through the rims. The nose has butterscotch, caramel, honey upfront with candied orange peels, dusting of cinnamon, and a palpable floral dew as well, thick presence which brings heaviness to the apple, peach, pear fruit scents. thickens even more with air time. Medium to full-bodied, lack lifts but sinks in fully to compensate. Dry on the whole, clearly wants to pile on the butterscotch and caramel, conversely lots of lemon and lime citrus to create brightness. Similar cinnamon, nutmeg spice as found in the nose. The yellow apple, pear, peach, melon fruit has good ripeness but not overblown. The acidity is average at best, non-factor. Vanilla and whipped cream infused finish. 88 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Lirac
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
2000
$15.99
14.0%
Sort of dusky purple, not washed out yet not especially resonant either, the color segues to brick red and then a burnt orange at the rims, maybe a touch of incipient brown, otherwise very clean with no noticeable sediment. The nose lacks the fullness to mask the alcoholic fumes, that said, you get a solid mix of chocolate, peanut shells, matted grass and damp earth, lavender, grapefruit pith and then a sinewy mass of cherry, blackberry, elderberry fruit scents, the length is moderate. Medium-bodied, here in the mouth it really shows its stuff, firm mouth feel without being drying, some tannic, not so much acidity. The raspberry, blueberry, blackberry fruit displays juiciness, lasts past the mid-palate, aided nicely by that white grapefruit as well as floral aspect. Some merde and earth, nothing which can’t be balanced out by the nutmeg and cinnamon spice and cocoa powder. Not all that complex but hits enough high notes to please. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah. 89 points
Ridge
Sonoma County, California
Geyserville
Zinfandel
1999
$29.99
14.8%
The core retains a clean purple base with a noticeable increase in red ruby, this shifting slightly to a red rust, magenta cast further out, doesn’t truly look its age, clear and transparent on the whole. Upon opening the nose explodes with coconut oil, butterscotch and dill weed, the oak treatment still a big presence, then eucalyptus, mint, bittersweet chocolate, cassis, maraschino cherry and blackberry fruit, strong dried fruit character without getting pruney, fruit subsiding allowing for some alcoholic fumes to show. Medium-bodied, has heft but manages to progress fluidly enough, any tannin feels wood derived, witness here too all that dill, coconut, vanilla and mocha. Here there’s a pickled, brine quality which creates a bracing sensation. Liqueur like elements found in the raspberry, cherry, blackberry, blueberry fruit, fresher here than in the nose. Strong current of orange and white grapefruit citrus, sweetens more than anything. If you want big fruit you waited too long, if you want a sort of claret like experience not long enough. 68% Zinfandel, 16% Carignane, 16% Petite Sirah. 89 points
Clüsserath, Weingut Ansgar
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Trittenheimer
Apotheke
Spätlese AP #2
Riesling
2002
$24.99
9.0%
The golden hue is quite solid and deepening, although nothing here looks like an older wine, decent hue strength through the rims, on the whole transparent with average surface luster. The rubber is the first thing to jump out at you in the nose, all warm and soft and squishy, but not far behind is lots of vanilla pudding, tangerine juice and apricot, pineapple, nectarine, star fruit scents with a nice blow of burning leaves and bark for contrast, interesting as a whole. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity is active and is able after some effort to channel things in a consistent direction. The vanilla, whipped cream and sweet baking spices here too, along with rose water and plenty of sweet and sour tangerine and pink grapefruit citrus. That earthy, peat, herbal edge lingers, really quite curious. Most of the fruit is upfront and in the mid-palate, nectarine, peach, apricot, pineapple, guava, more zest than juiciness hence the trailing off at the end as it turns drier. Definitely shed a lot of baby fat and arguably has a little room to improve yet. Fun while also challenging. 89 points
Cabanne, Château La
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1998
$35.99
13.0%
Some purple left in the core but just as much brick red and crimson, lightens around the rims with an orange tint, the liquid is quite clear and easy to see through, almost surprisingly so. The nose is full and close at times to fluffy, milk chocolate dust sprinkled over the raspberry, red cherry fruit scents, these with a candied aspect, the meadow scrub to wildflowers only slightly alter the overall softness, juicy orange pulp, remains primary without much earth, cedar or leather. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, the tannins unwind swiftly after opening and soften, allowing more room for the raspberry, cherry and, truly, strawberry to pomegranate fruit. Bell pepper notes appear here, helps stiffen the herbal side as well as create a drier, more fluid finish. There’s tobacco, tar and kindling smoke, very minimal oak presence. Zesty back half accentuates the white grapefruit citrus as well as pressed flowers. While the fruit remains in very good shape the wine overall does not convey the need to age longer. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 91 points
Bollig-Lehnert, Weingut
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen
Spätlese AP #5
Riesling
2002
$14.99
8.0%
Rich golden color while remaining clear, pools deep into the glass, lasts well into the rims, attractive surface luster too. The nose is lush and soft, oozing vanilla ice cream, coconut custard, mint, cinnamon, orange sherbet and fresh, pliable rubber, the peach, nectarine, pineapple, maraschino cherry scents resonate without too much sugariness. It’s medium-bodied, surprisingly firm in feel, the acidity powerful in a blunt manner more than penetrating and crisp. The vanilla, whipped cream, milk flavors here too, coat your mouth pores, even get echoes of chocolate. The rubber element present, just a momentary glimmer of minerality, spicy in an Indian food kind of way. Here you get fresher green apple and papaya notes alongside the juicier apricot, peach, nectarine base. Comes across more as concentrated than sweet per se. Has plenty of kick and thrust while staying fun at the same time. Those looking for layers of complexity will not be impressed, that said if you want a glass that empties itself in a sprint you have something here. 89 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Norheimer
Kirschheck
Spätlese AP #6
Riesling
2001
$35.99
9.0%
Quite dark golden color, certainly looks like an older wine, some remnants of a greenish tint, bends light and distorts your vision, the richness of the hue helps extend through the rims, draws you in visually. The nose is dense and unfolds in layers, coconut custard, sweet tangelo and pink grapefruit citrus juice, violets, the pineapple, nectarine, peach, melon fruit brings concentration and a sugary quality, however, overall it isn’t clingy and lifts decently, only a trace of rubber no mineral presence. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and languidly paced, not soft but has give and curves in all the right places. At the same time the acidity asserts itself by the mid-palate and tightens up the finish. Sparkle and pucker to the sweetly tangy pink grapefruit, tangerine, lime citrus, some mint and floral water in there, the peach, nectarine, pineapple, mango and guava fruit more super-concentrated than sugary. Again, glance of rubber but nothing which shouts out stones, minerals or terroir per se. The intensity of the flavors is outstanding if narrow in scope. Highly chuggable. 92 points
Petrolo
Tuscany, Italy
Galatrona
Merlot
1998
$69.99
13.5%
Semi-opaque purple core, bright crimson to sunset red hues at the rims, close to orange, still youthful looking, some shoulder sediment visible but nothing in the glass. The nose has a stony, leathery quality with sandalwood, cedar, the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit is basic, brings milk chocolate to cocoa, floral paste especially violets, touch of bell pepper, has a pleasingly raw quality to it, best appreciated for its steady qualities than “wow you” abilities. Medium-bodied, has a liveliness to it even as the tannic structure is still asserting itself. Plenty of fruit left, currant, cherry, plum with clove, nutmeg spice and orange blossom, at times a touch stern, but forgiving. The cedar comes across as both sweet and sour. More smoke than toast, the oak has a charred aspect, overall mostly knit in. Very versatile, could go with lots of foods. Potential “right bank ringer” in a Bordeaux tasting. 90 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Vendanges Tardives
Gewürztraminer
1996
$59.99
13.5%
Dark golden color, very shiny surface with a real densely visual feel to it, the shine is exquisite for its age, holds strongly through the rims, just youthful looking. Dryish nose, smoky with a lot of earthiness and forest scrub, orange marmalade, tangerine rind, cinnamon and some ginger, the peach, apricot, pear, melon scents take a decided back seat here, more fullness than intensity. Medium-bodied, lays across the palate nicely, layered cheek to cheek. The acidity is mild and lets things sink in slowly and steadily. Mushroom, earth and leafy, it’s well advanced but not aged per se. The cinnamon, nutmeg and floral water add the sweetness which the peach, apricot, nectarine, mango fruit only semi-delivers. Honey and even some lanolin nuances. Very pleasing, easy to drink but not eyebrow raising. 88 points
Bründlmayer, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Ried Lamm
Grüner Veltliner
2001
$34.99
13.0%
The golden hue has deepened, however, does not truly appear that aged, strong green cast to it, transparent with some layering into the glass, does lose intensity at the rims. Very expressive nose, full of snap peas, tangerine to pink/white grapefruit, not really that herbaceous and only a pinch of white pepper as contrast to the ripe, close to poached, peach, apricot, kumquat, persimmon fruit scents, you get more floral notes as it lifts as well as when it warms some. Medium-bodied, has shed flab and the acidity has room to strut and run the show. Here there’s an initial impression of vanilla and heavy cream before leaping into the pineapple, peach, apricot, nectarine, green apple fruit. The pink grapefruit, tangerine citrus remains sweet yet with bite. More peppery here, in addition broader grassiness. As in the nose the final impression is floral. Extremely well knit together. 93 points
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
2000
$50.00
14.5%
The sediment comes in big chunks rather than silt, as a result the liquid is clear, the violet core retains a red ruby cast, further out this deepens into a crimson, brick red hue, appears color-wise as an aging wine. The nose taut, not unyielding but there’s little easygoing in feel, the forest scrub, pressed flowers, cocoa powder and orange/white grapefruit pith wind around each other, does derive some lift from black licorice accents, slides you black cherry, black currant scents before sliding into muddy earth and that forest floor matter. In the mouth it is medium-bodied, takes some time to open but when it does there’s good sweetness in the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, as much red as black in nature. Peppery, the herbal side more knit in here, almost like lemongrass or garden herbs at times. The white grapefruit brings moderate tang. The tannins have calmed down, allows the acidity to add spine in its place. That chocolate edge softens the texture some. Violets blossom through the finish. Not sure what it would take to get it to unclench fully but at this stage of its life seems like you are getting most of its potential. 90 points
Kilikanoon
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Oracle
Shiraz
1998
$39.99
13.5%
Very clear liquid, close to no sign of sediment, the core remains at base purple but easily yields to bright magenta red and scarlet, mere suggestion of orange at the outer limits, resplendent surface. There’s a big element of wood smoke in the nose, like a country smokehouse, behind that coconut oil, dill, tar and asphalt, sous bois and horse hide, spritz of orange adorns the steady blackberry, blueberry, cherry fruit scents, the eucalyptus lurks offstage, overall has a raw texture in your nostrils. Medium-bodied, dry yet supple in its own fashion, the tannic grit like a firm massage while things keep moving. Here there’s an underlying sourness, grapefruit and blood orange elevate as well as the dill and fennel. The burnt, charred aspect remains but the oak is not oppressive, it even might arguably add cut. The black cherry, currant, persimmon, cranberry fruit strides swiftly through the palate, still has a presence but plateaued. Leather, earth, fallen forest wood, coriander and some beef jerky completes the menu. At the back end of its best drinking window, however, plenty to offer today, particularly if you like matured yet aggressive wines. 92 points
Foley Vineyards, Robert
Napa Valley, California
Claret
Blend
2001
$110.00
14.1%
Very dark purple in color, however, looks like it has lost some saturation, especially at the thin crimson to brick red rims, opaque from a distance but up close the clarity of the liquid more apparent. At first the nose highly dominated by oak, all toasty coconut, butterscotch, buttered toast, vanilla and then mint and dill, the fruit feels matured, patina of prune to the plum, cherry, blackberry base, more concentration and perfume than ripeness now, particularly given its strong floral side, has a dry and mildly tickling texture in your nostrils. Full-bodied, displays very good integration as well as pacing, moves smoothly through the mouth. Chocolate powder, mocha and vanilla cake the currant, cassis, plum, black cherry flavors, here the fruit snatches the spotlight from the oak, although you can’t ever ignore the latter. Mint, anise, lilacs, ginger root to orange zest, as it opens adds the right amount of makeup. Tannins light, comes across as mainly wood-derived. The finish is quite long, even as a tackiness accrues on the tongue. States its case clearly and concisely. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot. 90 points
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Côte de Léchet
Chardonnay
2002
$23.99
13.0%
Matured golden color, moderate distortion/bending of light beneath the surface, fat but not dull, the surface reflectivity helps to mask the lack of hue around the rims, sits solidly in the glass. There’s some breadiness and doughiness to the nose but really this takes a clear back seat to the oak presence, toast, caramelized brown sugar. butterscotch and even dill, strong lemon juice presence, mutter of ferrous minerals, plush apricot, peach, nectarine, apple fruit, reveals age by way of concentration more than particular scents. Full-bodied, expands outwards and has a gluey cling to the palate. like wearing a jacket a size too small, you can turn but it’s slowly and a touch uncomfortable while doing it. The oak here more creamy than toasty, kudos to the acidity for trying to create good posture but you can only do so much with what your have. Custard, butterscotch, caramel, crème brûlée, clove. Semi-poached peach, apricot, nectarine with a little pineapple zing. Simple lemon and orange citrus. Recognizable as aged Chardonnay but could be from just about anywhere. 88 points
Merkelbach, Weingut Alfred
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Kinheimer
Rosenberg
Spätlese AP #7
Riesling
2001
$12.99
8.5%
Steady green tint to the otherwise worn gold color, produces a pleasing semi-translucent layering, hue solid through the rims, a batch of tiny bubbles cling in a bottom corner of the glass long after the pour, definitely a pretty wine to gaze upon. Vanilla, custard, banana and floral dew comprise a lot of the nose, yellow apple, peach, apricot, cherry fruit scents supported by cinnamon and nutmeg spice, pinch of black licorice, overall sweet but not soft, simply lacking in minerality, stoniness or some petrol notes to contribute to posture. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, still has some love handles, however, the acidity is decent enough to prevent sugar catatonia. Brown sugar, vanilla bean, mint, licorice, wet rose petals align with peach, apricot, green melon, pear, apple fruit, soaks into the palate without turning heavy. Dries up a little through the finish, a welcome event. More than simple but not complex. 89 points
Montelena, Château
Napa Valley, California
Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$59.99
14.0%
The core is basically purple with a lot of brick red in there, the rims all crimson with a strong orange cast, clean with minimal sediment evident. Curious interplay between milk chocolate, green pepper, brown earth, tea leaf, balsam wood, has no lack of cherry, blackberry scents, pure and straightforward, full textural presence. Medium-bodied, still fairly tannic and dry but not overly so, makes an immediate impression of being in an awkward stage, the elements are there but the harmony is not complete. Here the cherry, raspberry, red currant fruit solid throughout, in no danger of falling off but has lost much youthful flab. Herbaceous but not close to green, hint of bell pepper. Minor chocolate and cocoa accents, betrays minimal oak presence. Should integrate more than improve from here out. 88 points
Saint Cosme, Château de
Rhône, France
Gigondas
Valbelle
Blend
2001
$53.99
14.0%
Some violet in the core but mainly bright orange to crimson, like real bright, clear and transparent, no sign of sediment. A little merde, animal fur funk to the nose before licorice, pressed flowers, sage and meadow grasses, spiced nature to the cherry, raspberry scents, creates a solid musk in your nostrils with above average length. Medium-bodied, feels like it has shed considerable weight, possesses the remainder of a credible tannic to acidic structure, helps highlight the green olive, leather, brown dirt, tree bark aspects. When you break past this there’s hard candied cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit plus tangerine to tangelo zest. While drinking well now on its own, best supplemented by food. 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah. 88 points
Egly-Ouriet
Champagne, France
Les Vignes de Vrigny Brut
Pinot Meunier
NV
$38.99
12.5%
Deepening golden color, contrasts starkly with the transparent core, clean in spite of its visual age, has a maelstrom of bubbles throughout, these highly aggressive and longlasting, no intensity dropoff much later after opening the bottle. Honey, graham cracker and lemon cured infused nose, soft minerality, thick candied peaches and apricots, well developed breadiness adds a more mature profile. Full-bodied, quite muscular, the pétillance is fairly fine but again longlasting and athletic. Lemon to orange citrus brings bite without impairing the pleasure of the sweetness. Honey, nuts and some scone-like dough notes, these definitely trump minerals and chalk. The apricot, peach, red apple, bosc pear fruit more ripe than sugary. Some herbs and forest scrub too, has developed nicely and nowhere near an slide downwards. Excellent. (RM-21723-02, Lot 65, disgorged Juin 2004 (36 months)) (Composite Cork) 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2012
Clos René
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1998
$27.99
13.0%
You don’t really feel there’s a lot of purple in the core, more so black and red smeared together, clear with little trace of any sediment, the rims a winter sunset red, more smoldering embers than lively blaze, too dark to really look its age, has a certain visual impassivity. Sweet herbs, pressed flowers, licorice and orange peel adorn the sweet cherry, raspberry, pomegranate fruit scents, more mineral dust than earth, pungent pine forest breeze, light leather, virtually no oak presence, some coffee bean, pure and not showing advancement beyond what you’d expect. Full-bodied, ripe and expansive, coats the mouth even as it’s not shy about throwing tannin your way. This may bring out the savory salt, iron, chalk, black tea elements which balance out the juice in the raspberry, strawberry, cherry, peach fruit flavors. The orange, lemon citrus lifts the mid-palate while there’s twigs, leaves and underbrush to ground it. Nothing here is profound but every component fits together seamlessly making for a whole greater than the sum of its parts. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 91 points
Baumard, Domaine des
Loire, France
Savennières
Trie Spéciale
Chenin Blanc
1997
$23.99
13.9%
Nicely pooled deep golden color with a vestige of amber, clean with a shimmering transparency, striking youthfulness, nice fullness through the rims, well-integrated for a more powerful visual impact. The nose starts off with a green, herbaceous quality before segueing into cinnamon, ginger, orange marmalade, honey, mint and a healthy mid-section of pear, apple, peach and apricot fruit, light wooliness, there’s excellent clarity among the elements without it feeling separated, more fun to sniff than derive geeky satisfaction. Medium-bodied, moves with muscular ease and measured pacing, the acidity seems to crest and fall more than provide a steady pulse. The sour orange, lemon and then white grapefruit citrus dance across the palate, sweetened by mint, flowers, honey and molasses, still ending in a dry and square shouldered finish. The lanolin and beeswax glue it to the palate. The peach, apricot, yellow apple, persimmon fruit push forward insistently, not annoyingly. 89 points
Valentini, Azienda Agricola
Abruzzi, Italy
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Trebbiano
1998
$76.00
12.5%
Flat and semi-grimy worn golden color with a vague green cast, the rims clear but not seemingly empty, just curious in how it sits there, older but not aged. The nose is not lifeless but compressed, with dusty spice, green apple, pear and peach skin, honey, brown sugar, dried grass, lemon juice, a hint of sherry, just crests and falls in haphazard patterns, in some ways riper and sweeter than might have been predicted. Medium-bodied, the acidity is average but chugs along to basically get the job done. Swirls together cumin, ginger, cinnamon spice, lemon peel, pressed flowers, mineral water, nice crest in the center from the pear, apple, peach, persimmon, star fruit, the florality grows as it warms. Shows signs of “good” oxidation, adds complexity. Will not bowl you over but if you pay attention each sip will provide a new reward. 89 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
2000
$65.99
13.0%
Pale gold to white hay in color, allows it to appear more consistent core to rims, transparent with a tranquil, clean surface, does not appear a wine of its age. Brisk movements in the nose but not angular nor abrupt, white smoke and ash, chalk, flint then licorice, lilacs, challah bread and lemon peel, remains pure and focused, pear, apple, peach as much skin and pit as pulp, mountain air freshness, very subtle lift and cleansing sensations, really in command of its presence while concurrently unadorned and simple. Medium-bodied, here the acidity scrubs during the attack and then trails off, leaving a flattened surface behind. The violets, lilacs as well as orange, lemon to lime citrus only halfway sweeten things, the peach, pear, nectarine, apple, white cherry fruit of few, if well enunciated, words. More saline and tonic water than stream water, tastes like fossils and chalk more than polished stones or even metallic notes. Its posture is excellent throughout, impossible to doubt its breeding. Yet, there is a certain reserve. Which, truth be told, is close to the “classic” model of top notch aged Chablis. Not arguing with anything here. 92 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
2000
$32.99
12.5%
The golden hue is not bright as much as warmly glowing, mild translucent shimmer, color disappears to create wide empty rims, more surface shine than expected. Some force and push to the nose, the minerals cede agreeably to the licorice, violets, honey, beeswax and country air freshness, great sparkle from the swirling lemon to mandarin orange spritz, you feel the fullness of the fruit more than the actual apricot, pear, apple, persimmon scents, again more thrust than cut. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, not flat, more so hilly, the acidity nudges it now and then and it certainly ends cleanly enough. Violets, roses, honey, orange blossom, mint all make for a pretty profile, gets lemony through the mid-palate, more sour and dry as well. Light breadiness. The minerality lacks sharpness but there’s glances of jalapeño and the slate slows the pacing down. Peach, pear, nectarine, echoes of mango or papaya, the fruit finishes succinctly. What’s not to like here? 90 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Grenouilles
Chardonnay
2000
$42.99
13.0%
Has deepened into a rich gold yet short of amber, not flat, not shiny, no cop out to say it looks like an aged Chardonnay, fades through the rims. The nose shows good life, floral with lifting orange to lemon citrus notes, more chalk and stream pebbles than minerality, the butterscotch and brioche accents stay in the back, the apricot, peach, yellow apple fruit scents holding on and spread wider with air time, similarly more salinity as it warms. Medium-bodied, not soft but definitely pliable, the acidity a steady heartbeat without sudden movements. On the sweet side, floral dew, orange marmalade, lemon custard, yet, no signs of true premature oxidation. Caramel, butterscotch, honey and citronella flow naturally. Richer here in terms of apricot, green melon, peach to nectarine fruit, lasts fully through the finish. Hint of iron, again more simple stone, spring water and quinine. Very agreeable and approachable, better to appreciate than parse apart. 90 points
Péby Faugères, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1998
$44.99
14.0%
Still some saturated glow left in the purple core, otherwise it’s got some garnet red to it, the rims are a dark magenta red with a thin edge of orange starting to develop, overall clean and not showing much sediment. The nose unleashes huge oak, all coconut oil, dill weed, buttered burnt toast and hard toffee candy, the blackberry, black cherry fruit simple and appears to have dropped off some, blast of mint and flowers, finishes with wet leather and mud but not much here suggests advancing Bordeaux. Medium-bodied, round and mostly smooth, as one might expect the wood creates a grainy texture in addition to bringing flavors of dill, coconut, butterscotch, caramel and cocoa. The black cherry, currant, blackberry fruit fares better here, albeit not more interesting. Flowers, white citrus, menthol and sweet dried herbs, you find a welcome shock of bell pepper, gives it character. Gains more astringency through the finish, smokier with leather and grill ash notes. When you wear too much makeup it’s best that the lights are kept low. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 88 points
Castillo, Casa
Jumilla, Spain
Las Gravas
Blend
1998
$19.99
14.5%
Unblemished, the core mostly black to dark brick or cough syrup red, not so much purple in there, all kinds of sunset burnt reds around the rims, no denying it’s an older wine but it is shockingly vivid and expressive. The nose is full of farts, peanut shells, wet wool, damp leather and black earth like you expect a handful of worms to crawl out, in turn there’s cocoa nibs, licorice, incense and potpourri, sage and a tight core of hard candy cherry, raspberry fruit. Medium-bodied, takes a fairly long time to open up and convince you it’s not teetering on the edge. When it does, though, it’s quite savory and mouth puckering, energized by a shock of acidity and plenty of tannin on the back end. Black tea, tree bark, leather, wool, pressed flowers, less reductive here but no less aggressive. Roasted but not oaky, at times close to salty. The raspberry, cranberry, pomegranate, elderberry fruit packs more punch through the attack but not dead at the end. While not profound, an experiment well worth the gamble. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Monastrell. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2012
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Ynez Valley, California
Larner Vineyard
Syrah
2003
$37.99
14.9%
The core remains purple enough to just pass into opacity, beyond that there’s a lot of cough syrup red, brick orange, clay colors, the rims remain deeply hued and intent on impressing. The nose is pretty damn reductive at first, diaper poop, rubber and just plain ass, eventually comes around to potpourri, orange peels and plum, cherry, elderberry fruit scents, menthol and mint, cocoa powder, never quite fully unwinds. Medium-bodied, has clearly slimmed down over the years and gotten down to its core essence. Teases you with the sweet remainder of caramel, vanilla and chocolate, then veers into iron, tomato skin, dried grass, merde and rubber, while not nearly as reductive in the mouth it’s still there. Cinnamon, ginger spice and orange pekoe tea up next, no lack of Italian plum, cherry, currant fruit but it’s not seeking the spotlight. Savory, close to salty, has your licking your lips with each sip. It’s mostly all still there, just more packed together, grab one and let ’er rip. (Composite Cork) 88 points
Michel & Fils, Domaine Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
2004
$49.99
12.5%
Basic yellow straw in color, some green flecks, fades some near the rims, more warm glow than richness of hue. The nose remains densely packed, moves albeit slowly, lots of pear, yellow apple, peach, persimmon fruit but not crazy ripeness, violets and anise, lemon curd, more powdered stone and chalk than sharper minerality, chugs ahead more than stretches. Medium-bodied, while it may have lost some sheer intensity the acidity still very much creates a thick skeleton and here can bring out more white grapefruit to lemon citrus and a slight dusting of minerals along with the stones and pebbles. More savory than sweet, the apple, pear, peach, apricot fruit holding on well but not going to do so much longer, there is a fine time to pull the cork. Particularly since it shows no signs of premature oxidation, yippee. Turns more floral through the finish, even more so with warming. Correct and satisfying. 89 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Barbara County, California
Grenache
2004
$29.99
15.0%
While close to crystal clear and fully transparent, the core is probably as black as it is purple and gains a brooding quality from the high level of brick in there, the rims are pure crimson, perhaps a mere suggestion of zinc orange. The nose has a mild funk to it, like mud caked straw and tree bark, nothing really “animal” about it, brings sweet mixed citrus tones to the raspberry, red cherry, watermelon fruit scents, light dusting of cocoa powder. In the mouth it is full-bodied and somewhat closed initially, requires some air time to spread its wings. above average tannic weave for its type, likely contributes to the dry finish you at first perceive. Eventually the hard candy sweetness of the raspberry, strawberry, blackberry, apple fruit smooths out the whole. The citrus sort of orange to white grapefruit but here too stays blended. Light eucalyptus to anise touch, less cocoa or mocha stuff. This is likely all you are going to get for development, gulp it while the fruit is still around. 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. Grapes sourced from Alta Mesa and Larner Vineyards. 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2005
$45.00
16.2%
Blood red to purple core, lots of gunk on the cork bottom and inside of bottle neck but if you are careful pours a clean glass, the rims remain an aged burnt red, more or less transparent throughout. Plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit prominent in the nose, still there’s a touch of stewed tomato too, distracts from the cinnamon, pine, eucalyptus notes, lack of complexity brings the alcohol to the fore. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied yet heavy, clings to the tongue like glue. If there is a word to describe the mouth feel it’s “flat,” lacks true structure while the plum, cherry, blueberry fruit has faded appreciably sapping it of juicy mindless fun. Here’s there white grapefruit to give a moment of zip, the caramel and sweet spices about all the oak you get, you even wish there was more. Not even the herbal twist at the end holds your attention. No great flaws but what it is is over the hill. 84 points
Selbach-Oster
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Zeltinger
Schlossberg
Spätlese AP #21
Riesling
2001
$15.99
9.0%
While transparent there’s a certain fat glow in the yellow to green color which creates an attractively full glass, does dilute at the rims, though, and the surface sheen is just about average. The nose has a small hint of rubber, mostly comprised of orange, pink grapefruit, powdered sugar, rose petals and apricot, peach, pear fruit, brush of whipped cream too, not a lot here as evidence of aging nor to suggest what sort of development might be expected. Medium-bodied, at times feels bigger as it has very good density, if at the expense of a spring to its step. Here the vanilla, whipped cream and even caramel more upfront with less rubber and close to a minimum of minerality. Tangerine, lime, lemon citrus tangy and alive from start to finish. The acidity could break a bit more of a sweat. But you do get some nectarine, pineapple and papaya mixed in with the apricot and peach fruit to create deeper resonance. Not particularly compelling but enjoyable to throw back with abandon. 88 points
Eglise-Clinet, Château L’
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
La Petite Eglise
Blend
1998
$25.99
12.5%
Scarlet to purple core, immaculate and clean, not a sign of sediment, red to orange clay hued rims, transparency in full effect, coloration suggests age, all else vigorous youth. The nose leans heavily on muddy earth, pebbles, matted grasses and straw, wet wood, horse hide and tree bark, the red cherry to red currant scents have a lean punch, touch of dried lemon peels. Medium-bodied, quite tannic and almost hard at first but does unwind appreciably with air time. There’s some sweetness in the cherry, raspberry, currant to strawberry fruit but not enough length and breadth to suggest that it will outlast the structure. Tree leaves and bark, pine, anise, orange peel, straw and hay, the earthiness is sufficiently dry to stay, err, close to the ground. No glaring flaws nor unbearable rusticity. Seems like a nice guy who hasn’t showered nor shaved for a few days. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. Second label of Château L’Eglise-Clinet. 88 points
Aia Vecchia
Tuscany, Italy
Lagone
Blend
2001
$13.99
13.0%
Clear, if dusky, purple cruise to blood red colored core, more crimsons red to orange rust towards the rims where fully transparent. The nose is all reductive flatulence, peanut shells, mud and decomposing forest floor matter, behind this you get a decent core of red fruits and flowers. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and dry, somewhat flat, however, there’s ample cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit as well as grapefruit citrus, flowers and pine. Earth and animal hide but not near the funk found in the nose. Cocoa powder and more peanut shells. This wine flummoxes. The cork smells musty. The nose stinks. But in the mouth, and especially with air time, there’s so much fruit and it comes close to cohering. Flawed bottle? Bottle pushed too far into old age? Impossible to tell with assurance. Sometimes it’s fun to find such a tricky bottle. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese. 84 points
Gallet, Henri et Philippe
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$55.00
12.5%
Admirably clear light purple core then pure crimson red with a touch of orange at the outer rims. High-toned and penetrating nose of olive pits, leather, black earth, stone and matted grasses, brings more animal hide than bacon, saline, goes light on the red cherry, blackberry fruit, openly knit and dissolves quickly. Light to medium-bodied, highly acidic and mouth puckering, tobacco ash, stone, mineral dust, iron, white grapefruit flavors predominate. You get merde here in addition to the cowhide and leather. As it opens it develops a core of red cherry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit. Texturally stays dry throughout. Kind of wound up and needs real fatty food as counterpoint. 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier. 88 points
Michel, Domaine Robert
Rhône, France
Cornas
La Geynale
Syrah
2006
$80.99
13.0%
Light and clear, just about fully transparent, vestige of purple but mainly brick red to maroon, consistent throughout. Zips right into your nostrils splattering rhubarb, cranberry, red cherry fruit scents, animal fur, merde, iron and saltlick, pressed flowers, not that full but feels ripe and juicy, on the whole pretty clean while can hit a few sauvage notes too. Medium-bodied, round but not soft, has tannin to grip the tongue, blooms into a big perfume too with orange to grapefruit citrus, some cocoa and steady blackberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit, no highs nor lows. The mineral, iron, earth is proportionate to the whole, allows its sappy texture to persist. Grassy lift through the finish. Well-bred and mannered, yet with a semi-rakish side. 91 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2001
$37.99
13.0%
Burnt sunset red in color, eclipses the purple in the core, close to fully transparent, the rims are blood red with just a hint of orange. The nose is soft and maybe even a bit mute, basic array of raspberry, blackberry, cherry scents, blends in dried flowers, damp brown dirt, sage and marjoram, very pure and to the point of being simple. Medium-bodied, more rugged here in the mouth as the acidity, and to a lesser extent tannin, gets assertive. Sweet raspberry, red cherry fruit abounds, more strawberry than black fruit. Stone, pebbles, dirt, minimal minerals and no leather. Glance of white grapefruit. Clean and linear, penetrates but doesn’t spread widely. Should hold in this state for more than a few years. 89 points
Whitehall Lane
Napa Valley, California
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$65.00
14.2%
While the liquid is quite clear and there’s barely a trace of sediment there’s so much crimson and orange rust in the purple core that it looks very “serious,” the bricking red takes over for very wide rims, looks like an aged wine with the exception of how clean it is. Explosive nose dripping with juicy blueberry, blackberry, raspberry fruit and caramel, butterscotch, then you get menthol, flowers, mint, orange pekoe tea, sweet maduro cigar wrapper, everything plump and unevolved. Full-bodied with a loose tannic structure and mild acidity, keeps it friendly and approachable yet not flabby. Spiced oranges, cinnamon, clove, cedar, eucalyptus, licorice, sage and thyme lend the mouth entry good complexity. The oak mainly chocolate and butterscotch and not as potent as in the nose. There is a smokiness throughout too. Concentrated and close to dried fruit cherry, blackberry, blueberry, plum flavors last fully through the finish. Increasing herbal notes create lift at the end. Full throttle style, nothing shy here, pulls it off excellently too. 94 points
Clavel, Domaine
Languedoc, France
Coteaux du Languedoc
Terroir de la Mejanelle La Copa Santa
Blend
1998
$22.99
14.0%
The core remains mainly purple but there’s no lack of red rust in there too, the rims a clear brick red to orange hue, manages a brooding appearance even with its fine clarity. There’s beef jerky, barnyard dirt and hay, dried tobacco to the nose, sufficient cocoa to breathe some life into the otherwise fading cherry, blackberry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, dry and semi-tacky mouth feel, here it is certain that the black cherry, blackberry, elderberry fruit is going. Does pull together a credible amount of flowers and dried orange peel to supplement, as well as some of that cocoa. You sense it was tannic back in the day from the way it tends to clog your mouth pores. Some kindling wood, grass and dirt but not coalesced into a thematic whole. That’s the way the cookie crumbles. 80% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre. 85 points
Eddy, Tom
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$175.00
13.7%
Super-clean ruby-violet in color, well-hued while also transparent and no opacity, showing more of a young brick red at the rims, looks bottled yesterday. Unassumingly full and powerful nose of wet cedar, saddlesoap, orange pekoe tea, incense, garden herbs, tobacco leaf, close to having a savory quality, hard candy feel in the raspberry, blackberry, red currant scents, overall smells young and fruity. Medium-bodied, has a great tannic weave across the palate yet never dry so as to impede flow. Cedar, sandalwood, tea leaf, orange spice, leather, loam, forest matter give it a rustic patina, just what you want in a still aggressive yet aged Cabernet. The raspberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit both sweet and tangy. You get some vanilla fudge as the largest sign of oak. Keeps coming at you without forcing itself on you. Grapes sourced 46.5% Vyborny Lad Vineyard, 22.1% Pedregal Vineyard, 18.9% Vyborny GF Vineyard, 12.5% Phoenix Vineyard. (1.5 liter bottle) 93 points
Quilceda Creek
Regional Blend, Washington
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$74.00
14.9%
Trim ruby-violet core, good consistency through to the red rust rims, no sign of sediment at all, moderate opacity at the core. Sweet nose of super-juicy raspberry, blueberry, boysenberry fruit, maple syrup, caramel, milk chocolate, floral dew, for all that doesn’t seem insanely oaky, probably does seem more so due to the lack of any real tertiary development, shows virtually no aging. Medium to full-bodied, offers cinnamon, ginger, molasses, brown sugar and chocolate. Well-endowed with smooth, yet close to overripe, cherry, blackberry, plum fruit. Some orange zest. No noticeable acidity nor tannin, just an easy, frictionless mouth feel. Here too no sense of development nor where it may go. Kind of like laboratory wine. 97.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Cabernet Franc. Blended from the Champoux, Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun and Taptiel Vineyards. 88 points
Bea, Azienda Agricola Paolo
Umbria, Italy
Montefalco
Vigna Pipparello
Rosso Riserva
Blend
2001
$61.99
13.5%
Bright and lively ruby hued core with a good bit of orange too, crystal clear, great surface reflectivity, looks about middle aged. Keen nose easily penetrates with minerals, dried brown earth, sour lemons, thyme, fennel, some dried merde, zippy raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit scents, very pure with lots of lift. Medium-bodied, fresh acidity helps it vibrate in the mouth, good cleansing power with a focus on lemon to orange zest, stone dust, minerals, cocoa, leather, cedar, a light brine aspect. The tannins subdued. Has forest floor brush but not near seeming green. The raspberry, rhubarb, boysenberry, strawberry fruit has laser precision. Fantastic inner mouth perfume. Fresh finish has you licking your lips long after you’ve swallowed. 60% Sangiovese, 25% Montepulciano, 15% Sagrantino. 92 points
Ducru-Beaucaillou, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1974
11.3%
Lots of fine sediment throughout the liquid, still attractive vibrancy in the garnet to brick red core, no real hue diminishment at the rims. The nose remains full of cherry, blackberry fruit as well as cedar, pressed flowers, orange rinds, cigar ash, whiff of merde at first, has good overall push into your nostrils, bit of herbaceousness before dissolves, really nice. Medium-bodied, the tannin have been pulverized and doesn’t effect its basic smooth texture. Dry with a mild dried to candied fruit character, sweetens the cherry, raspberry, almost strawberry fruit, plenty of life. Nicely floral here too, brigs complexity in the form of cedar, dill, iron flecks and a big lemon to grapefruit citrus bite. Everything holds on well after opening. Very relaxed, as if nothing left to prove. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 90 points
Schweiger
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$45.00
13.9%
Youthfully saturated purple core, segues to broad and luminous ruby red rims, here you see a little of its age with hints of orange and crimson coming through, has thrown lots of sediment so beware of floaties, otherwise clean and reflective surface. The nose is a study in contrasts, on this side buttered popcorn, dill, caramel oak, on that side earth, mountain scrub, cowhide, somewhere in between there’s ripe yet firmly contoured cherry, blackberry, mulberry and persimmon fruit scents, mixes in cedar and tobacco leaf, does not come across as that evolved. Full-bodied, on the dry side yet the tannins have clearly subsided some while all that blackberry, cherry, currant fruit continues to thrive. Less oak here, some caramel and toasted bread as well as ginger to cumin spice, vestige of dill weed. Leather, cedar, tobacco and tea leaf, moments of fried orange peel. Lively yet relaxed and not over eager to ingratiate. Big time inner mouth perfume. Lots of time ahead on this plateau, would easily trade off some fruit for tertiary development. 91 points
Mitolo
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Serpico
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002
$39.99
15.0%
The purple core comes closer to black than more reddish hues, not fully opaque, the rims on the other hand are all burnt red and orange, nicely full and glowing. At first the oak is overwhelming in the nose before knitting in, coconut, butterscotch, caramel as well as popcorn, mint and fried butter, strong prune edge to the plum, blackberry, cassis fruit scents without seeming too sugared, as it opens develops a pleasing earthiness to anchor the orange blossom and menthol lift, only flaw might be relative shortness and lack of follow-through. Full-bodied, thick and muscular, no real tannic presence but when it moves you feel it ripple. Caramel popcorn, butter, toffee, vanilla fudge, the oak lasts longer here. Prune, golden raisin and date match the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit punch for punch. No earth but twigs and grass instead, wood smoke. Orange reduction, mint and some herbs like basil or oregano. Not hyper-complex yet does sometimes zig when you think it will zag, a definite “guilty pleasure” winner. 90 points
Muré (Clos St. Landelin), René
Alsace, France
Vorbourg
Vendanges Tardives
Gewürztraminer
1997
$19.99
12.5%
Rich orange bronze in color, the core dark enough to even seem red at times, mild translucency helps add heft to the yellowish rims, while the color screams and aged wine the surface sparkles with youthfulness. The nose yields apricot paste, dried peach and nectarine fruit, candied oranges, cinnamon and brown sugar, whipped cream, yet for all of that never seems opulent nor overblown, good firmness in your nostrils. Medium-bodied, likewise in the mouth could pass as either a dessert wine or an aged and concentrated dry table white, has more acidic spine than expected and has good posture and pacing. That said, the years have certainly brought out more honey, dried fruit nature in the apricot, peach, pear, yellow apple, nectarine, mango fruit, same for the orange to pink grapefruit citrus. Here you get some nuttiness and more grape typicity, although none of the aged Gewürztraminer mushroom or earth stuff. Gulpable and falls into the uncritically fun column for sure. 90 points
Mount Langi Ghiran
Victoria, Australia
Riesling
2003
$19.99
13.0%
Shiny and clean yellow hay with both green and white touch, transparent yet does bend light and your vision some, hue diminishes some around the rims. Soft rubber, whipped cream, floral dew, peach, apricot and pear fruit make for a deep and inviting nose, in turn there’s tonic water and minerals as well as a light grassy quality which becomes evident as it warms. Medium-bodied, sets itself squarely in your mouth, you feel it cheek to cheek. Here you get a big elevation in lemon to white grapefruit citrus which plays well off of that vanilla, whipped cream aspect and also teases out more mint, anise and rose petals. Fleshy core of peach, apricot, yellow apple, pear to persimmon fruit topped of by cinnamon to nutmeg spice. The rubber component there yet not as strongly as in the nose. Not developing into something “profound” but remains an extremely fun wine to drink. (Screwcap: Stelvin) 90 points
Failla
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
2001
$38.00
13.5%
Dusky sunset red hued core has enough purple left to just darken it into full opacity, the rims a panoply of burnt orange, red and yellow colors, clearly aged yet vigorous in appearance. The nose is quite high-toned and emphasizes white grapefruit pith, black olives, merde, muddy barnyard earth, wildflowers and sage to marjoram spice, beef jerky with remnants of hard butterscotch and caramel candy, the currant, black cherry fruit scents come off as angular and don’t soak in. Medium-bodied, while on the whole dry very fresh from the lively acidity and bright white grapefruit to blood orange citrus. Likewise, the sourness in the cherry, currant, cranberry fruit and lemongrass, olive pit aspects give it plenty of spine. Still, the fruit has no lack of sweeter ripeness, nothing weak about it, this creates more openness for that caramel to toffee element to spread forth. Finishes with molasses barbecue sauce coated meats and a smoky mouth perfume. Could possibly improve but no real reason to wait. 92 points
Sanguine Estate
Victoria, Australia
Heathcote
Shiraz
2001
$49.99
14.5%
Lots of vibrant purple left in the core with a crimson cast, even more red clay to red rust around the rims, touch of very dark orange, for its above average clarity pools down into the glass well. The nose is a festival of menthol, eucalyptus, licorice, mint and orange blossom, smattering of cinnamon, ginger and other baking spices, even with toffee and vanilla fudge nuances does not push the oak very far, the fruit is ripe in a restrained and contoured manner, plum, blackberry, boysenberry, pomegranate, broad lift as well as lingers well. Medium-bodied, credible acidity with enough tannin, even if wood, savory profile with a big swirling mouth perfume fueled by that menthol, mint, licorice and orange to grapefruit citrus. Cinnamon, nutmeg, clove meld into the toasty profile, here the sweetness crests by the mid-palate and then yields to a chewy dryness by the finish. Pretty much at its peak, take advantage now of its remaining explosiveness. 91 points
Riggs, Mr.
Regional Blend, Australia
Shiraz Viognier
Blend
2003
$52.99
14.5%
The core is an opaque blackish purple which yields to very broad red rust rims, clear and not displaying undue age, some youthful saturation left. The general proportions among scents has stayed in the same in the nose, simply settled down some, butterscotch, menthol, licorice, candied orange peels, lavender, the oak moderate, the plum, blackberry, black currant scents firm and direct, there is an alcoholic lift which detracts a little, otherwise a pleasant and integrated experience. Medium-bodied, quite muscular with noticeable acidity and a drier than expected profile, stains the palate more than soaks in. Semi-sour edge to the blackberry, blueberry, currant fruit, the orange to white grapefruit citrus adds even more tang. The caramel, butterscotch, brown sugar stays in the background to supplement. Touch of earth and straw but not a great deal of development. Still, got to think it’s where it needs to be and no sense in holding much longer. 95% Shiraz, 5% Viognier. 60% Angas Vineyard (Langhorne Creek), 40% Piebald Gully Vineyard (McLaren Vale). 90 points
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