Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in December 2011
Rusden
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Driftsand
Blend
2003
$29.99
14.5%
Shockingly clear and transparent, highly polished, the core is a cough syrup red which turns to a more red clay to orange around the rims, the color might suggest advanced age but altogether it seems that this is really the hue it always had. The nose does betray some alcoholic fumes, once beyond this you get raspberry, strawberry, cherry liqueur, candied orange peel, ginger root, black tea, wet wool and kindling smoke, the oak is evident but has pulled back into the whole some, has a leaner overall profile without wasted movement. Medium-bodied, credible acidity with the same firm, tight feel. Here, though, the oak plays a much bigger role, coconut oil, butterscotch, cocoa with some mint and menthol in place for lift, more dill towards the finish. The sour orange, lemon citrus puts some starch in your underwear. Tart cranberry, red cherry, pomegranate, strawberry fruit, all red and bright. Again, not entirely smoothly integrated yet, by the same token, shows great verve and energy which forgives a sloppy moment now or then. Might improve over 2-4 year horizon, enough fruit to last. 70% Grenache, 20% Mataro, 10% Shiraz. 89 points
Pride Mountain
Napa Valley, California
Reserve Claret
Blend
1998
$110.00
14.1%
Black purple core, opaque, not quite cloudy, thick brick red rims with a light orange at the edges, looks its age. Mostly cedar, clove, orange spice, saddle soap in the nose, mild oak toast which has knit in well, light prune touch to the plum, cherry, blackberry scents, everything settled in, remaining rich and without ostentation. Full-bodied, dry with a semi-tacky mouth texture, floral with mint, sweet herb shades and orange citrus with a little grapefruit too. No flash just consistency in the cedar, leather, campfire smoke. Close to hard candy sweetness in the raspberry, red cherry fruit, almost more strawberry than blueberry. Caramel and toffee bloom through the finish. Drinking very well at the moment. 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. 92 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Cabernet Sauvignon
2003
$65.00
14.8%
Clean and clear, the core remains purple with some black to it, the crimsons rims lively, maturing but not advanced in appearance. The nose is a bit on the quiet side, leans on the plum/prune, blackberry, cassis fruit scents as well as honey, molasses, menthol and some flowers, on the whole clean but at times you register a hint of stewed tomato, no substantial development evident. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, fat and heavy and weighs on the palate. Has orange to light grapefruit citrus, stark lack of tannin can make you think there’s more acidity there than likely measurable. Brings plum, date, prune, red cherry, red currant fruit, has a lingering greenness which “reddens” the fruit profile. Dash of pine, eucalyptus, menthol and rose petal. Fairly monochrome, no material there to develop but still alright for chugging. 88 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
2001
$40.00
14.2%
Completely black and opaque core, the rims are dried blood to brick red and clear. Nice lift to the nose, full yet airy, the plum, cherry, blackberry scents dropping off a touch towards the end, offers vanilla powder, hard butterscotch candy, pine, lavender, odd in that on the whole not that primary yet not really tertiary either. Medium-bodied, smooth and graceful, moves briskly. Some tannic residue but not much. The syrupy blackberry, boysenberry, raspberry, mixed cherry fruit sweeter than the nose would suggest. Expected array of flowers, orange peel, rosemary, cedar, cinnamon, licorice. The vanilla and caramel led oak helps to sweeten and thus lengthen the experience. Very complete now while not showing much reason to push it further. 76% Morisoli Vineyard, 16% Herb Lamb Vineyard, 8% Beckstoffer-To Kalon Vineyard. 90 points
Schulz
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Benjamin
Shiraz
2002
$29.99
14.5%
While opaque, the crimson to purple core is not overly saturated, the fresh red blood rims are broad and lively, some burnt red hues but no orange, looks early middle-aged. In the nose the vanilla bean, butterscotch, brown sugar clear but not really that sweet, as a result the black currant, blackberry, boysenberry scents thick but in turn not that juicy, some orange juice and green olives mixed in there, overall its density impedes lift and spreading. Full-bodied, maple coated bacon and brown sugar here do indeed sweeten the mouth entry, the orange juice juicy and eucalyptus and floral dew both rich. Layered sufficiently that movement is rare, not much tannin to speak of, maybe a shock of acidity to freshen the back half. Mocha, vanilla, butterscotch, molasses all in acceptable proportion. Sour touch here brings cranberry and pomegranate alongside the blackberry, blueberry, Italian plum fruit. Hard to say it has developed substantially but has lost unneeded fruity flab and does not seem in any danger of falling apart or losing its fruit core. (Screwcap) 89 points
Pride Mountain
Napa Valley, California
Reserve Claret
Blend
1997
$98.00
14.1%
Light filminess to the purple core, eases into very broad garnet to crimson rims, holds light inside well, maybe hue intensity has dropped off some. The nose explodes with coconut oil, toffee, vanilla taffy, marshmallow, floral with orange zest, the currant, cherry, blackberry scents trail off suddenly, can be muscular just again not that long, not showing substantial tertiary development. Medium-bodied, the tannins beat out of it, so smooth with no bumps in the road, zesty orange to lemon citrus, mint, milk chocolate, wood smoke, caramelized brown sugar, toffee, butterscotch, you name it. Nowhere near as rich and sweet as expected in the fruit department, however, here the blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry, black cherry flavors have good consistency throughout. Remains one-dimensional. The expense of the oak evident. 63% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. 88 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Blanchot
Chardonnay
2001
$94.99
13.0%
Shiny, bright golden color, full from core to the rims, fully transparent with a light green glint. Very pungent nose, smoky with sauna stone, iron shaving, saline aspects, with little fruit emphasis but has pear to apple skin as well as grapefruit pith, even more explosive and gripping as it warms. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity does not cut but presents a deft blunt blow to the palate, dry with static electricity. Has stones, pebbles, minerals, salt, soy in spades, highly smoky, even metallic like a wires on fire. The white to pink grapefruit, lemon enunciates well, quite tart. Again, the skin and pit aspect rules the peach, apricot, pear, pineapple fruit, taut. The dry finish has you smacking your lips repeatedly. Puts on more weight as it warms. Damn smoky. 92 points
Failla
Napa Valley, California
Phoenix Ranch
Syrah
2001
$38.00
14.3%
Fat, glowing purple core, very lively, the rims a broad red magenta, easily opaque, on the whole does not look its age. The nose has a weird slightly plastic edge, otherwise big floral dew, orange reduction, olive paste, sour if sugary currant, cranberry, cherry scents, pork rinds, mushrooms, strong molasses smokiness, very ripe without giving up firm profile. Full-bodied, extremely youthful with a fine tannic webbing, huge floral pungency. Molasses to brown sugar derived smokiness then lots of blueberry, blackberry, cherry fruit that keeps coming at you. Zesty sour white grapefruit to orange citrus, scrubs the palate vigorously. Gives up olive paste and some fresh leather. Curiously unevolved for where you might expect it to be. 91 points
Vieux Donjon, Le
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
1999
$29.99
13.5%
Under close light there’s hardly any purple left in the core, mostly burnt sunset red and further out orange, more gauzy than filmy in a sediment-derived way, albeit lots of sediment thrown, looks its age. The nose filled with white pepper, camphor, grill smoke, orange peel, underbrush and wildflowers, mocha powder, some plum to prune along with red cherry, cranberry, blackberry scents, feel like your nostrils are stuffed with cotton balls, develops a lot over time. Full-bodied, syrupy texture yet fluid and avoids heaviness. Prune and date mixed with cherry, raspberry, strawberry, pomegranate fruit. Still peppery but more floral here, white grapefruit zest brings lift, then some merde and damp earth to anchor it. The acidity is above average and helps keep it fresh. Touch of surmaturité though. Good mouth perfume. 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah. 90 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1998
$75.00
13.0%
Blackish purple core, fully opaque, dense blood red rims, somewhat brooding appearance, kind of seems aged by default due to its lack of general coloration. The nose is funky with earth, cow patties, tree bark yet not expressive overall, mix of orange to grapefruit peel, lavender, roses, anise, tea leaves, the fruit more concentrated than sugary, this being prune/plum, currant, sour cherry, sort of oaky but even that lacks power, does not connote a sense of place. Medium-bodied, not a lot of weight, dry with adequate tannin or acidity. Floral and supported by orange/tangerine citrus, olive pits, cedar, sandalwood incense. The raspberry, red cherry comes with more strawberry than blackberry, tart and not so juicy yet full through to the finish, comes close to dried fruit at times. Nondescript, has a minimum of this or that but excels at little. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Sangiovese, 10% Syrah. 87 points
Closel, Domaine du
Loire, France
Savennières
Chenin Blanc
1989
$24.99
13.5%
Deep golden verging on amber color, clear but not especially shiny, hue fills the rims adequately, pools enough to hold light and layer into the glass. The nose betrays some oxidation, a few Sherry notes, honey, raw bread dough, molasses, Mandarin orange citrus, basic array of pear, apple, peach fruit scents, decent fullness but not that expressive. Medium-bodied, flat presence, however, has sufficient acidity to bring out green apple, pear fruit in addition to peach and apricot. Considerable honey, brown sugar, vanilla custard, pie dough flakes and mint. The tangerine to lime citrus brings sourness. Fattens up some as it warms but still lacks length. Pleasing in a genteelly over the hill sense. 86 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Grenache
2004
$35.00
15.5%
The core is mostly red-ruby but there’s some violet in there, more magenta to orange near the rims, bright with not quite complete clarity, its colors bespeak its age even while not showing any sediment. Ripe raspberry, strawberry, rhubarb and red cherry fruit scents drive the nose, floral with some mixed citrus blossom, also displays cinnamon to nutmeg spice and a light vanillin oak-like side, no real grape specific distinction comes through, slightly alcoholic. Medium-bodied, has a fairly gluey mouthfeel but releases quickly enough to keep the soft, dried fruit tinged character in the golden raisin, date, cherry, blackberry, strawberry fruit. No tannin, acidity nor general structure. Oaky and smoky without further complexity. What it does have is a very high degree of agreeability, convinces you to like it with ease. 87 points
Hackett, Chris
South Australia, Australia
Coonawarra
K1
Shiraz
1998
$44.99
13.1%
The core easily as much black and dried blood red as purple, enough orange in the rims to create more of a garnet look, very clear and no sediment on the bottle shoulders, quite sleek and reflective surface as well. Syrupy to liqueur nature to the raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit scents, wood smoke, dried straw and hay, pinch of cocoa powder then menthol rub, wildflowers and sage, fennel, mature while clean, the fruit shines throughout yet lets the other elements enunciate. Medium-bodied, again syrupy, clings and then releases to flow smoothly forward. lots of upfront orange to white grapefruit citrus brings sweet and sour tang to the otherwise ripely sugary red cherry, raspberry, blueberry, cranberry fruit. Licorice, eucalyptus and lilacs next up, displays a little grill fat and smoke but nothing here suggests more than moderate oak treatment. Tannins grip without drying, sets itself firmly in the mouth given its relative lack of size and weight. Savory finish, you know it has personality without being bludgeoned by it. 90 points
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
1998
$50.00
14.3%
Throwing lots of fine sediment even after standing upright for days, core is more black than purple, the rims fade to a weathered brick red to dried blood hue, surface shine is good. The nose has plum, cherry, blackberry fruit that is smooth and lasts well, cinnamon stick, dried blood oranges, some field grasses, earth and merde. Medium-bodied, very refreshing acidity supports the olive pit, tapenade, leather, blood, black pepper and orange to white grapefruit citrus. Raw and semi-sauvage feel to the red plum, currant, raspberry fruit. Smoky with vanilla overtones. Lean in terms of no fat, muscular and taut. Ends with a mild floral lift combined with mesquite grill smoke, spreads widely inside the mouth. 90 points
Seavey
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$64.00
Black purple core, fully opaque, radiant brick red to crimson rims, clean surface, some sediment visible inside the bottle shoulder. Pretty floral nose, milk chocolate, orange peel, menthol, richly layered plum, cherry, currant fruit scents while not seeming “fruity” per se, not oaky either, doesn’t seem close to evolving, very collected and calm presentation. Medium-bodied, plenty of tannin yet soft and giving enough to caress the palate and sink in. Sweet and sour character in the raspberry, cranberry, red cherry, blackberry fruit, measured presence to the cocoa, chocolate, menthol, vanilla, pine and orange peel accents. Takes time for any earth, leather, tea leaf or general smokiness to show. Not a wine that seems past middle age. Immediately enjoyable and drinking well with good room to grow too. 91 points
Gambal, Maison Alex
Burgundy, France
Chassagne-Montrachet
Clos Saint-Jean
Chardonnay
2004
$54.99
13.0%
Slight green edge to an otherwise golden color, fairly solid core but really transparent way before getting to the rims, decent surface luster. Spicy nose of ginger, clove, lime to tangerine citrus, very crisp and firm but with some vanilla creaminess underneath, gets smokier as it warms which then cloaks some of the pear, peach, apple fruit scents, moderate length, doesn’t seem that evolved while at the same time no evidence of premature oxidation. Medium-bodied, dry and tacky mouth feel, does not seem due to acidity, more so a woody oak residue. Buttered toast, caramel, butterscotch then comes rose petals and big time lime, lemon, tangerine citrus. The peach, apricot, pear, yellow apple fruit steady not spectacularly rich. Not sure when it will shed more of the oak as well as develop tertiary embellishments. 88 points
Tatiarra
South Australia, Australia
Trademark
Shiraz
2002
$59.99
15.5%
Plum purple core, effulgent with unusual clarity, allowing a ruby glow to become present before turning into a more garnet to copper orange shades at the rims, visually showing some age in terms of color. There’s wet oaky toast quality to the nose along with cowhide and merde, caramel popcorn, butterscotch, mint and mixed candied citrus peel, the cherry, blackberry, boysenberry, raspberry scents marred by a medicinal and at times plastic-like aspect, juicy and sugary but no flow, on the whole lacks staying power. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and not particularly tannic nor acidic, for all of its concentrated fruit not that sweet and has a dry and sort of puckering finish. That pomegranate, raspberry, red cherry, cranberry fruit all initial thrust then tapers off. Pleasing orange zest and flowers, the oak here lacks softness, more toast and hard butterscotch to caramel candy with a smoky grilled meat character as well. Continues to lose cohesion with additional air time. Quite exuberant and ingratiating on release, not what you want after paying to age a wine. 50% Heathcote, 50% McLaren Vale. 87 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Niederhäuser
Hermannshöhle
Spätlese AP #11
Riesling
2002
$49.99
8.5%
Covers a broad color spectrum from white gold to green to yellow hay, clear on the whole with a warm glow which helps it fill the glass some, visible diminishment around the rims, nothing truly unusual about how it looks, about right for its age too. The nose displays a soft, fresh rubber aspect, made more agreeable by vanilla pudding and lime to orange sorbet, violets and juicy peach, apricot, nectarine scents, conversely at times you do get sharper pineapple notes as well as a dash of jalapeño, seems a touch bottom-heavy which impedes greater lifting perfume. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity moves forward but non consistently, stops often to catch its breath. More tang here which moves things into the tangelo, pink grapefruit, lime citrus spectrum as well as provide additional pineapple, mango and papaya flavors alongside the peach and apricot. The florality struggles to find a clear voice. That vanilla fudge to pudding helps pile on the sweetness. More interesting as it warms, firms up some too. Not sensing much further evolution to be had. 89 points
Togni, Philip
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$65.00
(Labeled as table wine hence no alcohol percentage)
Glowing red brick to burnt orange in color, more than equal to any purple in the core, not hazy more so holds light well inside the glass, the rims strong rust orange, while seems aged also leaves you suspecting the hue was similar when young. The nose is dense and shows thick and close to stewy plum, cherry, blackberry fruit scents, wet cedar, eucalyptus to witch hazel notes, the herbaceous side stands off the side but never not there, some grill smoke, comes across as just out of its youth. Full-bodied, chewy and fat, plenty of smokiness, earth, and herbal matter, however, the fullness of the plum, cassis, boysenberry fruit evident from start to finish. The tannin is relatively soft given the producer’s reputation, firm but no real drying aspect. Cedar, anise, iodine, pressed flowers, olive pit and sage come through the end. Curiously approachable now but definitely has upside and room for meaningful tertiary development. 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc. 92 points
Corison
Napa Valley, California
10th Anniversary Edition
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$49.99
12.8%
Not throwing much sediment, cough syrup red to a washed out purple hued core, more of a dried blood red through the rims, light orange glint at the outermost edges. The nose is tight at first but with time opens to prodigious cedar, sandalwood, dusty Indian spices and merde inflected earth, some smokiness yet close to zero sweeter oak presence, the raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit scents straightforward and have a jammy texture without seeming fruity per se, ends with a potpourri to pressed rose petal lift. Medium-bodied, without a lot of weight or extract manages to cling to the mouth pores well. Here you do get a smidgeon of caramel and mesquite smoke to supplement the cherry, currant, sour mixed berry fruit profile. Spiced orange peel, incense, cedar, dried flowers, unquestionably aged yet the interplay of the fruit with the tertiary elements convince you it’s mature and not too much so. The tannins mostly ground down to a fine coating. Its sugary ripeness bespeaks California but it would be a decent ringer in a Bordeaux tasting. While some might find it underfruited in terms of length, more so it prefers quiet confidence as it walks into the sunset. 91 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Forêt
Chardonnay
1999
$53.99
13.0%
While the golden hue has deepened some does not look that advanced, layered enough to create a mild translucency and pools well into the glass, retains a hint of green around the rim edges and surface shines. The nose wastes few words, mainly lemon to lime zest, mineral dust, licorice and a touch of honey drizzled bread, no sign of premature oxidation, the apricot, peach, mango, pear fruit juicy yet careful to remain in proportion to the whole, low cruising altitude should not be mistaken for lack of richness. Medium-bodied, acidity continues to keep its shoulders back and jaw jutting out, no flab to be found. Still, not angular and the stone, mineral and tonic water elements balanced by flowers, lemon, lime and orange citrus and pineapple, apricot, nectarine, star fruit flavors. The doughiness is light and the clove to ginger spice bubbles up and down throughout, moments of saline if not chili pepper. Opens very nicely with time and firms up and gains weight as it warms. This one turned out as it should have. 92 points
Tour du Pin Figeac, Château La
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1998
$29.99
12.5%
From a distance there’s more purple in the core than up close where it’s mainly cough syrup to brick red, quite clean with full transparency throughout, beginning of a segue to orange around the rims, doesn’t necessarily look older but its being so doesn’t surprise either. The nose is surprisingly light as in raspberry, strawberry, watermelon fruit with a touch of blackberry, sandalwood, Indian spices, mint and orange peel, little by way of leather, earth or that sort of stuff. Medium-bodied, while there is a powdery sort of tannic feel it’s not archly dry and one could argue that the fruit is maybe drying out some, the raspberry, blackberry, boysenberry, cherry flavors trail off at the end. More oomph here in the orange, white grapefruit citrus as well as dried potpourri, cedar, incense and tea leaves. Little to no sweet, creamy oak presence. At the same time, as in the nose, paucity of earth or minerals too. Drinks like a well-made luncheon claret and not more. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 87 points
Summerfield
Victoria, Australia
Shiraz
1999
$19.99
14.0%
Plum red to light violet in color, some bricking near the rims but not near orange, looks aged but crystal clear and transparent as well as no sediment in the bottle shoulder. Great penetrating power to the nose, full of menthol rub, mint, cedar, spiced orange peel, underbrush, grill fat and cranberry, red cherry fruit scents, while well-scented the textural punch is what keeps your attention. Medium-bodied, lots of acidity which tends to slim down the mouth feel but also add focus. Blends in white pepper notes, quite savory given the bodacious eucalyptus, menthol, licorice and mint elements. Mix of subtler orange to lemon citrus. The raspberry, rhubarb, red cherry and mulberry fruit comes up a touch short on the finish, however, not being a fruit driven wine this is not so noticeable. Back road dust and dried clay appear, some pine and forest herbal matter. Light dried beef jerky to tanned leather. No blockbuster but has plenty of intensity and grabs you from the first sip. Should even please the haters. 91 points
Ridge
Sonoma County, California
Geyserville
Zinfandel
1997
$25.99
14.9%
Very clear throughout, the core is more black than purple now with a brick to clay red further out and then a mix of red and deep orange around the rims, coloration suggests an older wine but the cleanliness gives it a more youthful sense. The nose is very sweet and candied but not that dense nor heavy, you get vanilla pudding, coconut and dill first then strawberry, raspberry, red cherry preserves followed by meadow breeze mix of wildflowers and grasses, some damp earth too, while somewhat evolved the fruit remains its primary attribute. Medium-bodied, feels bigger due to how it clings every contour of the palate. No real tannin nor acidity presence, however, does not seem flat or sloppy. More orange to lemon citrus bite accompanying the raspberry, blueberry, boysenberry, cherry fruit base. The dill weed bigger here and fits in with a simmering sourness. Still, not entirely herbaceous and you do get that vanilla, chocolate, caramel swirl effect. Some mint and parsley notes. What is interesting about this is how forward the fruit remains while every sip undeniably underscores that this is an older wine. 74% Zinfandel, 15% Carignane, 10% Petite Sirah, 1% Mataro. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in November 2011
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Clos
Chardonnay
2000
$73.99
13.0%
Deepened golden hue, clear but bends light some, rims are pretty solid too, definitely looks like an aged wine. Flowers, butter, honey glazed bread and butterscotch big in the nose, there’s some smokiness under there as well as lemon and lime zest, some brightness left in the apricot, nectarine, pineapple, guava scents, gets thicker and more bready as it warms, premature oxidation is present but not necessarily a completely dominant force. Medium to full-bodied, dry and dusty, the acidity is not all that zippy but has a few thrusts left. Here the premox gives it a flatter feel and there’s plenty of bread, dough, honey, scone flavors to be had. Lemon, lime and some grapefruit buoy the peach, apricot, nectarine, pineapple, green apple fruit, not lacking in flavor. You can sense the pedigree underneath but the imperious carriage of fine breeding not coming through. Basically, if you liked softer oaky Chardonnay you’d likely think this was a good wine. 86 points
Lagrange, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1995
$35.99
12.5%
Somewhat blackish cast over the otherwise light purple to mostly crimson to brick red core, the rims a garnet red to burnt orange cast, looks more maturing than old, noticeably clean and transparent. There’s a lot of cedar, bell pepper, green grasses, dirt and sun dried rawhide to the nose, a spoonful of caramel to fatten up the otherwise taut red cherry, blackberry, elderberry scents, ends with a fire ember to tobacco ash element. Medium-bodied, starts out tight, opens some, then closes down again, leaves you thinking this is what you are gonna get. The sour pucker to the red cherry, raspberry, blackberry flavors keep them alive, however, there’s not much softness or supple length. The cedar, kindling wood, leather and minerally earth keep it grounded and here it displays less herbaceousness. Cocoa, coffee bean and powdered dark chocolate for oak influence, moments of mixed white citrus and flowers lend nuance. Tannins are indeed lessened but a formidable foe yet. Tight finish. You want to say it’s not ready but that may not be the case. 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot. 88 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Lirac
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
2001
$31.99
14.0%
There’s some finer sediment but the liquid remains a youthful red ruby to purple color, the rims a more straightforward and transparent maroon to crimson red. There’s some sous bois to forest scrub stuff going on in the nose, dried orange peels, sage, while very ripe the fruit scents have shed enough fat to take on a sour character, albeit sourness has nothing to do with the olfactory sense, raspberry, cranberry, blackberry with a hint of Italian plum, no real discernible oak presence. Medium-bodied, feels pulled taut as if the fleshiness seeped out. Still, the flavor intensity of the blackberry, blueberry, raspberry fruit is good and there’s supplementary mixed citrus and mocha notes. In contrast you get a fair amount of grass and herbal matter and wet bark and twigs. Almost gets wooly now and then. No reductive notes though nor really barnyard stuff. While nice and all hard to say it has developed something meaningfully different from its youth while has lost fruit. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah. 88 points
Standish Wine Company, The
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
The Relic
Shiraz
2002
$51.99
14.5%
Black core, you only start to get purple coloration towards the rims, there you find thin, if heavily saturated, brick red to crimson hues. Full-on, in your face nose of hot caramel, toffee, marshmallow and mesquite barbecue sauce along with close to dried fruit character plum, cherry, blackberry, cassis fruit scents, if you want you might be able to find some leather and wet fur, massages white grapefruit, lilacs and iced tea notes into the whole, for all of its initial thrust arguably lacks staying power. Full-bodied, layered and not slow but languorous in its movements, willingly allows the caramel, butterscotch, cocoa and molasses to slow its gait. Here you do get prune, date, raisin alongside the plum, currant, black cherry flavors, enough excess sugar to sweeten the white grapefruit to mandarin orange citrus. The floral side lifts some too. Tannins subdued, little acidity, yet no slouching. Pushes as much tang into the finish as possible given the underlying sweetness. What it should be and not unintelligent about it. 93% Shiraz, 7% Viognier. 89 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002
$45.00
14.2%
Garnet red to purple hued core, lighter than expected and easy to see through even if the gunk on the cork bottom suggests serious sediment present, the rims have a burning ember to brick red cast, overall looks solidly middle-aged. The nose first comes up with coconut custard, caramel and chocolate before veering into dill weed and cedar, well-contoured and steady cherry, boysenberry, blackberry fruit that has perfume, flowers, incense and spice, tingly texture in your nostrils, lingers gently. Medium-bodied, stays in balance with a softly consistent tannic webbing, buoys the blackberry, raspberry, black cherry fruit. Chocolate dust, mesquite grill smoke, cedar and light roast coffee beans ably supplement. Incense, tea leaf and orange peel stiffen the posture some. The plushness and some weight it has lost from its youth has not really been adequately replaced by tertiary development. On the whole tangy, while drinking well now does not leave you thinking there’s much reason to wait for future glories. Might as well pull the cork and enjoy the fruit today. 78% Morisoli Vineyard, 15% Herb Lamb Vineyard, 7% Beckstoffer-To Kalon Vineyard. 88 points
Antonelli, San Marco
Umbria, Italy
Sagrantino di Montefalco
Sagrantino
2000
$35.99
14.5%
Rust red to orange as much present in the core as purple, seems to bring out a flatter blackness as well, that said, crystal clear and easy to see through, the rims a vibrant red sunset, the colors suggest age while the glow a young wine. The nose has a damp animal fur, merde and rain soaked black minerally earth character to it, in spite of this no missing the sweetly candied red cherry, raspberry, blueberry fruit scents, close to liqueur-like, notes of torrefaction, coffee, caramel and chocolate, decent floral breeze, the mixed white citrus and herbs more muted. Medium-bodied, you can feel the chunkiness of the tannin as drying residue. Here too, though, the ripeness of the fruit bursts through, sweet cherry, blackberry, blueberry, watermelon flavors buttressed by caramel and toffee. The white grapefruit a stronger presence here. The flowers come through by the finish but in a dried, pressed sense. Drinking well now, has certainly softened on the whole while retaining fruit, remains a food wine rather than casual sipper though. 88 points
Latour-Giraud, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Les Narvaux
Chardonnay
2002
$39.99
13.0%
Deeply bronzed orange color, surely appears to be well-aged, the rims diminish some to a washed out yellow, still a solid and block-like appearance in the glass. Spicy nose featuring cinnamon, ginger and a pinch of cumin, shows moderate signs of premature oxidation if not fully in control, candied orange peels, challah bread and honey, possesses a briny sort of bite, the peach, apricot, cantaloupe fruit more concentrated than fresh, you truly have to give it credit for breaking a huge sweat to get as minerally as it is. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with credible acidity and good posture, no slouching even in the face of honey, caramel, butterscotch and croissant flake accents. The lemon to orange citrus thick and syrupy yet with sour snap. Nectarine, pineapple, peach and apricot fruit scratch and bite as much as salve. The sharper baking spices yet present. If you like the “nuttier” type of Meursault there’s something here, if you like the laser, angular Meursault less so. Due to the aforementioned concerns, likely peaked 2-3 years ago. 87 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Chardonnay
1999
$34.99
13.0%
Solid golden color which is evincing an advanced age, transparent but distorts when glass tilted to deepen hue, clear and colorless rims, sits impressively in the glass as if cut from whole cloth. The nose truly splits it down the middle, stone, dried flowers, streamwater and mixed white citrus pith on the one side, honey and buttered croissant on the other, a tautness in the peach, apricot, apple fruit favors the former, seems like it’s nearing the end of a long journey and wants to rest. Medium-bodied, honey and brown sugar tries to sweeten but the acidity broadens its shoulders while chalk, tonic water, limestone and puckering lime to lemon citrus keep it real. The peach, apricot, pear, red cherry fruit is ripe but not juicy, much more crackle and pop. On the dry side but not dusty, could use more intensity and expressivity through the finish. Still, for an aged Chablis of its era, and all that means, got no problem with it. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in October 2011
Lesec Sélections, Patrick
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Cuvée Emilie
Syrah
1998
$59.99
13.0%
Effulgent orange-red to crimson color, the purple has receded back into the whole, clean without a suggestion of film and minimal sediment if any, fat and rich in appearance. While the nose is thick it also has very good lift, offers molasses and mesquite smoke with a floral breeze, meaty with a dash of bell pepper, candied orange peel, olive pit, dense red cherry, blackberry, Italian plum fruit scents, some oak toast but well knit in, light and cleansing herbaceousness. Medium-bodied, edgy yet thick and syrupy consistency with no deviation from start to finish. Grill smoke, molasses, hone with cocoa powder, fried orange peel, the acidity does often pull it back from the brink and into balance, tannins subdued. Taut and semi-sour red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, ripe without sacrificing good posture. Has the right amount of herbal matter and dirt too. Modern in style, however, satisfying in its own right. 91 points
Weil, Weingut Robert
Rheingau, Germany
QbA Estate AP #33
Riesling
2004
$22.99
10.0%
Clear yet with a steady yellow-green glow, fills the glass nicely given its relative transparency. The nose is creamy with vanilla and cinnamon supporting lemon/lime citrus, rose petals then cherry, nectarine, apricot, kiwi, pineapple fruit scents, so sugary that you almost miss the mineral to powdered stone element, deep and longlasting nostril presence. Medium to full-bodied, soft and splays itself generously across the tongue, the acidity is somewhat lightweight but on the whole it is “fun” enough that you don’t care. Lime to lemon soft drink, pink grapefruit flavors sweet and lively. The kiwi, pineapple, kumquat, apricot and peach at times verges on a dried fruit consistency. Floral, develops a pleasing sourness which saves the finish. More minerality apparent as it warms. Easygoing, kind of a guilty pleasure bottle. 89 points
Bosquet des Papes, Domaine
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Chantemerle Vieilles Vignes
Blend
1998
$36.99
13.5%
Filmy in an unfiltered way, not sediment, the core retains some violet, however, is mainly brick and rust red, fading into sunset reds and oranges around the rims, while not dark in hue certainly vivid enough to hold your gaze. The nose is an even split between candied cherry, raspberry, red apple fruit and merde, wet barnyard funk and damp metallic soil, mixing in white grapefruit and orange citrus as well as a thick floral dew. Medium-bodied with a lean, rugged profile, more from basic demeanor than age, really leans on the earth, straw, grass and metallic aspects, here the white grapefruit citrus clearly steps to the fore. The acidity percolates throughout while the tannin tends to accrue and slightly deaden the finish. Most of the cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit loaded upfront and through the mid-palate, buoyed by a few cocoa notes. Seems to like to be in “attack mode.” Chewy now, a toss up if this is just what the wine is or if there’s potential to soften with additional aging. Consume with hearty food for best effect. 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. 90 points
Corison
Napa Valley, California
Kronos Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$89.99
12.8%
Trim, unblemished ruby-violet hued core, transparent throughout while never seeming lacking color, rims remain ruby to a light scarlet, nothing visually comes close to suggesting a wine of its age. The nose is spicy with sandalwood incense, rose petal, leather and orange peel accents, comes across as refined and perhaps shy, the mixed red and black berry to cherry fruit scents show best quickly after opening and then recede thereafter, light smokiness but nothing close to an overt oak presence. Medium-bodied, on the dry side and likely just past the apex of its best drinking window, has good posture while allowing primary flavors to peacefully thrive. The cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit lively if could last longer. Pleasing blend of flowers, orange zest, cedar, ginger powder and chocolate, the added presence here of oak actually helps maintain a good threshold of sweetness. Lots of garden herbs to fallen leaves and meadowy grasses, this while not seeming green nor herbaceous. Smooth and elegant, moves with ease. 91 points
Rusden
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Ripper Creek
Blend
2002
$29.99
15.0%
Red clay inflected black purple core, excellent clarity evidence of less than full opacity, the rims display crimson to dark rust orange shades, quite vivid with luster to spare. Explodes out of the glass with boisterous aromas of grill smoke, animal hide, molten tar and charred wood, cherry compote, blackberry, boysenberry fruit with a slab of dried apricot paste, flowers and a cleansing mentholated aspect, sinewy and at times close to reckless, wants to make an impression big time. Full-bodied, polished and smooth for its size with the tannin ground to a light fineness. More sheer concentration to the fruit than sweetness, albeit no lack of the latter, blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, cherry with that same dried fruit density. Here you get a splash of orange to lemon citrus along with flowers and eucalyptus. The leather, merde, tar more knit into the whole while the oak toast perhaps more distinct than in the nose. Relentless in its efforts to serve your base instincts, a winner in the “guilty pleasure” category. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Shiraz. 91 points
Haart, Weingut Reinhold
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen
Spätlese AP #9
Riesling
2001
$23.99
8.5%
Deepening golden hue, fat glow to it, while transparent not so sparkly, stays deeps through the rims, color suggests a wine in middle age. The nose leans on pink grapefruit, tangelo, lemon citrus as well as nectarine, apple, pear, cherry fruit, the streamwater and mineral chunks outshine the lactose notes, likewise equally salty and floral, above average fullness and credible staying power. Full-bodied and spreads fully cheek-to-cheek, sinks in yet avoids heaviness as the acidity nicely asserts itself through the mid-palate on. A lot more milkiness here, some vanilla, lends a creamier mouth feel. Conversely, the fruit has more bite by way of pineapple, mango, nectarine, green apple flavors. Sweetened by pink grapefruit and pink lemonade notes. More stone, chalk than metallic minerality. While youthful in many respects, leaves you unsure what kind of tertiary complexity might be possible in the future. 89 points
Turley
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Ueberroth Vineyard
Zinfandel
2006
$48.00
16.1%
Lots of scarlet and crimson in the basic purple base, no filminess at all yet it displays a layered gauziness which traps and holds light within. The nose has developed a smoky, leathery quality, charred kindling but not oaky per se, like a wooden pit for barbecue, slight stewed to compote quality in the red cherry, raspberry, boysenberry, rhubarb fruit, pungent enough to cloak most of the menthol, orange pulp and pine cone accents, penetrates more than fills so as to retain an active feel. Medium to full-bodied, has shed a good deal of baby fat in order to throw more effective jabs and sprint faster to the finish line. More white grapefruit and lemon than orange here, zesty and sour. Flowers and eucalyptus surface for a moment, digress into butterscotch, molasses and pulled pork. There’s an abiding sourness to the raspberry, blueberry, blackberry, boysenberry fruit, however, it lasts fully through to the finish. Just not sugary sweet. Above average perceptible acidity and has a tight weave which creates added erect posture. Curiously, deserves food to show best. 90 points
Pira, Luigi
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Margheria
Nebbiolo
1996
$39.99
14.5%
Orange to red brick coloration dominates what purple remains, very clear with hardly any trace of visible sediment, slight yellowing at the rims, could pass for cough syrup. Nose gives up pressed roses, leather, brown dirt, rosemary and basil, while full texturally there’s a noticeable lack in the stuffing of the cherry, raspberry fruit scents even if overall it’s more fresh than musty. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, dry with a serious tannic residue like a woolen blanket across the tongue. Here the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit fares slightly better, hard candy nature. That said, it remains a wine focused on presenting earthen grass, rawhide, cow patties and wildflowers. Develops a sour lemon to orange bite alongside anise to black licorice. More herbaceous through the finish. Pleasing enough in a muscular fashion, little finesse, perhaps passing its prime. 88 points
Campion
Edna Valley, California
Pinot Noir
2001
$36.99
13.8%
Scarlet red to purple in color, while immaculately transparent and clean still has a dark and brooding quality, slight diminishment along the rims, visually does not bespeak an aged wine. The nose has a taut pungency to it, cola, licorice and cinnamon intertwine with barnyard mud and animal sweat, semi-sour quality to the rhubarb, cherry, kumquat, strawberry fruit scents, spritz of lemon zest as well, very good length as well. Full-bodied, similarly to the nose has a fluid density and firmness but not heaviness nor any clunky missteps. More fruit forward here with raspberry, strawberry, rhubarb, cranberry flavors and a more mentholated to floral side to go with the cola, baking spices, and lemon to orange peel accents. The acidity bluntly effective, comes across as slightly tannic too. Muscular in style yet possessed of breeding, nothing uncouth about it. Should have a long drinking plateau. Grapes sourced from Firepeak Vineyard. 90 points
Bohème
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
2004
$50.00
14.5%
Dark purple core which stops just this side of full opacity, full-on brick red to dusky crimson hued rims, wide and yet full of youthful vigor with a clean surface. The nose continues to show a great deal of creamy vanillin oak as well as toast with a hint of dill, high-toned in feel though with brisk penetration, mix of raspberry, cranberry, rhubarb, red cherry fruit scents, over time sweeter chocolate and caramel comes out, even with a steady undercurrent of minerals and beef jerky. Medium-bodied, not overly thick but does spread itself broadly across the palate, tannins are subdued but the acidity has some kick left to it. Mix of red and black fruits here and on the sour side, cherry, cranberry, boysenberry, Italian plum, trails off at the end. Not so much creaminess, the residual oak is more burnt toast, bread and smoke. The savory garden herb aspect in effect, leafy like a forest floor. Any game or leather muted, however, there is a big uptick in white grapefruit to mandarin orange citrus, particularly through the finish. There is class and pedigree here yet perhaps a lack of confidence in baring an unvarnished soul. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in September 2011
Corison
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$55.00
13.2%
Semi-dull red clay to purple colored core, liquid is clear enough, dilute rust to brick red rims, the surface shine is pretty. The nose features cedar, bell pepper, rock salt, sandalwood incense, iron flecks and a solid portion of brisk red cherry, red currant, raspberry fruit scents, not lean but by the same token not an ounce of fat on it, drives through your nostrils like a railroad spike. Medium-bodied, tangy with pronounced acidity to go with a thin coating of tannin dust, here there’s an upfront burst of orange to grapefruit citrus which leads into floral and cedar notes. The vanillin oak and hard butterscotch candy is slight, oak not a prominent feature. The herbal to green pepper streak intact here and performs admirably in contrasting against the concentrated, if sour, cherry, cranberry, currant fruit. Super tangy finish, turning drier, you always sense the ripeness of the primary material without the wine losing direction and thrust. 92 points
Autard, Domaine Paul
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée La Côte Ronde
Blend
1998
$49.99
13.5%
Gauzy glow to the crimson and orange rust inflected plum purple core, the rims a touch watery by comparison, clean surface with above average reflectivity. The nose is dense and expansive with potpourri, licorice, orange pekoe tea, wet horsehide and layered blackberry, currant, cherry, boysenberry fruit scents, has an herbaceous lift which can tickle your nostrils. Full-bodied, while dense not leaden nor incapable of fluid movement, here you get notes of fig, raisin and plum alongside cherry, cranberry, red currant and apricot flavors. More earthy with stone and meadow grass notes, has a touch more acidity than expected. The orange to lemon citrus accents support the sweet garden herbs, anise, garrigues, cumin to ginger components. Very long, savory finish suggests a wine of youthful vigor. Some developmental upside here, especially if you prefer a sleeker style, but really hard to resist its charms now. Big, bold and brash, fun in a glass. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, etc. 92 points
Hirsch, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Zöbinger
Gaisberg
Alte Reben
Riesling
1999
$29.99
13.0%
Some deepening of the golden hue but not quite amber, no haze but there’s plenty of bending of light through the liquid, color at the rims strong. There is a milk to yogurt edge to the nose as well as a pronounced tire rubber element next to mint, sweet herbs, orange marmalade and pineapple, papaya, apple and nectarine fruit scents, full nostril presence with some tang. Medium-bodied, spreads widely and reclines fully across the tongue. Vanilla and marshmallow flavors make for a curious initial impression, these more there than milkiness. Balanced by mineral powder and sour orange to white grapefruit pith, could use a tad more acidity to give it added penetrating power. More zest and zip than juiciness in the nectarine, pineapple, apricot, apple fruit. Overall, doesn’t feel “old” nor really advanced while at the same time not showing big time tertiary aspects. Pleasant and integrated well enough, wish it had more distinct personality. 88 points
Schmitt-Wagner, Weingut Carl
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Longuicher Maximiner
Herrenberg
Auslese AP #18
Riesling
2001
$21.99
7.5%
Youthful yellow to white gold color, strong translucency detracts from the good surface shine, hue diminishes some at the rims but they still appear layered. The lactose and coconut oil element to the nose does not detract from the keener edge found in the grapefruit, tangerine citrus as well as nectarine, guava, peach, green apple fruit, supported ably by smoky minerality and chalk dust, touch of chili pepper, not that much obvious tertiary development. Medium-bodied, good traction and firmness in the mouth with a much drier profile than expected. The acidity does not have a sharpened blade to wield but does provide a rough woolen blanket across the tongue. The orange, lemon, white grapefruit citrus all but fully woven into the peach, apricot, nectarine, papaya fruit for a single impact. The coconut, vanilla, whipped milk aspect most noticeable through the finish. At the same time, has a slight green bite at the end too. Has character but remains in middle age as it suggests a more complex future ahead. 90 points
Blanc (Dr. Parcé), Domaine du Mas
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Collioure
Cuvée Cosprons Levants
Blend
1998
$27.99
13.0%
While transparent there’s still a faint gauziness to the cough syrup red to purple hued core, takes on more of a metallic orange to red rust cast around the rims, very good hue vibrancy throughout. The nose shows a good deal of funk upon the cork pulling, settles into wet saddle leather, animal fur, earth and clay, matted wildflowers and grass, sour oranges and then tart red cherry, cranberry, pomegranate, apple scents, scrubs your nostrils but only semi-aggressively, sinewy lift. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, on the dry and sour side, this in an active and organically lively manner, no superfluous fireworks. Leather, sandalwood, wet fur, orange peels, then bing cherry, raspberry, strawberry, red apple and generally tart red fruit shows. The tannin is tight, not especially drying nor coating but manages to stay at the forefront. The acidity an able footman. Some cocoa, mocha to wood char accents. Smooth, easy finish. This bottle reveals a wine just passing peak, having lost some power but retaining grace and tact. 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre, 10% Counoise. 89 points
Belleverne, Château de
Beaujolais, France
Saint-Amour
Gamay Noir
2002
$10.99
13.0%
The core has lost a lot of purple in favor of a ruby red and slight orange rust cast, fades to yellow at the outer rims, quite clear and transparent, sparkles so that you can ignore the aging coloration. The nose has a pleasantly relaxed earthiness about it with fallen leaves, twigs, moss, potpourri with a few drops of vanilla extract to go with the cranberry, rhubarb, raspberry, pomegranate fruit scents, the mixed citrus zest is dry and while there’s excellent persistence by the same token it releases with grace. Light to medium-bodied, displays a firm tannic, acidic grip which cements its presence. Here there’s a more dried fruit character, golden raisin and fig alongside the raspberry, rhubarb, cherry, cranberry flavors. Added brightness in the orange to white grapefruit citrus, sweetness too. Wildflowers, basil, licorice and witch hazel keep it fluttering about the room. It clings and releases like velvet. 92 points
Vieux Donjon, Le
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
2000
$26.99
13.5%
Deep orange amber color with above average clarity, consistent through the rims, clean but obviously a wine with age on it. The nose is a strange assemblage that never quite coheres, smoky minerality with butterscotch, vanilla, marshmallow and banana, melon, peach fruit scents, orange sherbet, floral water, then mint and sweet herbs, ends like it is struggling to get all earthy and such. Medium-bodied, the acidity is somewhat lackluster, however, the overall mouth feel is clean and moves at a steady, measured pace. Cinnamon, ginger spice teases out more orange, lemon citrus, the nuttiness provides an anchor on the tongue. Vanilla fudge, cocoa, butterscotch, molasses sweeten the mid-palate. Dries out some after that, perhaps due to the relatively weak grip of the green melon, peach, apple, pear fruit. Flowers blend with twigs, stones and forest floor matter. It has faded some and lost the joyful exuberance of youth, the serenity and lack of pretense today is not compensating given the lack of broad tertiary development. Unspecified percentages of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, etc. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in August 2011
Quilceda Creek
Regional Blend, Washington
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$72.00
14.5%
The opaque black-purple core not that vibrantly saturated but still draws your attention, more glow in the scarlet to red clay hued rims, there’s a good amount of granular sediment showing through. Takes pains through the nose to ingratiate itself, mint, white flowers, orange blossom with toffee, milk chocolate, the saddle leather notes almost shocking, all is going well until the flat toned cherry, plum fruit just, err, comes across as flat, comes across as if wimping out. Medium-bodied, grips your mouth pores and in doing so increases presence. Emphasizes caramel, toffee, vanilla oak and then softly succulent cherry, blackberry, black raspberry fruit. The orange blossom, mint, menthol elements add more makeup. Odd in how it does indeed develop a clear personality, yet one devoid of a clear sense of constitutive grape. As such you have to enjoy it for its juicy friendliness, however, any search for complexities may prove bootless. 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot. 70% Champoux Vineyard, 30% Red Mountain Vineyard. 88 points
Killibinbin
South Australia, Australia
Langhorne Creek
Shiraz
2002
$39.99
14.5%
Slightly filmy orange-red core with some purple left, clear brick red rims, this in spite of a huge amount of crud on the bottom of the cork. Plummy nose, not that sweet but loaded with black cherry and blackberry fruit, does have a slight tomato skin edge, some menthol and anise notes, maybe some orange zest, roasted qualities impedes length in your nostrils, leaves a flat impression. Medium-bodied, has more liveliness in the mouth with a semi-sour tang lifting the cherry, plum, currant fruit. The orange to grapefruit citrus teams up decently with the flowers and eucalyptus to add forward motion. Caramel and butterscotch oak notes. Less overtly overripe here although hard to say one can find tannic or acidic structure. Lots of perfume, disappointing in how it trails off at the finish Otherwise, it’s satisfying in a fairly basic manner, if without noticeable tertiary development. 87 points
Péby Faugères, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1999
$59.99
14.0%
Medicinal cough syrup red infused throughout the purple core, mix of red and orange clay hues at the rims, on the whole clear with a very fine sediment not interfering. The nose displays a lingering oak toastiness which has melded into the whole, lots of cedar, dry leather, orange peel, cumin and ginger spice, subtle earthiness brings it a more country wine feel, the cherry, blackberry fruit not all that expressive. Medium-bodied, spreads itself evenly across the palate and hugs every corner, while dry the tannins feel resolved. Again, the lack of staying power in the red currant, cherry, black raspberry fruit slightly annoying. So, for all the cedar, orange peel, spice, dried flowers and cocoa dust simply does not have enough flavor to carve out a succulent finish. Otherwise, stays on point in a rough and ready fashion and never dips out of sight. Was probably worth the gamble of waiting this long to see if any special tertiary elements evolved. You gotta give if you wanna get. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 88 points
Cape d’Estaing
South Australia, Australia
Kangaroo Island
Shiraz
1998
$55.00
14.1%
While there is some loose sediment remains mostly clear with a ruby inflected violet core, more scarlet to brick red around the rims, looks to be about in middle age. The nose is sour on the whole, coconut oil and eucalyptus notes met by dill and cedar, the cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit lacks breadth although penetrates decently, some alcoholic headiness, at this juncture on the way to drying out. Medium-bodied, dry without seeming tannic, for its weight seems heavy and lacking in agility. The plum, cherry, red currant fruit short and tart, lengthened a touch by white grapefruit accents. Most of the mid-palate is coconut, butterscotch, toffee oak remnants. Smattering of flowers, mint and eucalyptus. Can’t get in a good flow, surprising that it has lost its juiciness by this point. 87 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Bougros Côte Bouguerots
Chardonnay
2002
$49.99
13.0%
Strong glow to the dark golden hue, light layered effect, surface on the flat side, credible strength through the rims, fills the glass no doubt. The nose starts off full of minerals and stone but as it warms you get the honeyed pie crust and baking dough shit, orange marmalade, mint jelly, some peach cobbler and apricot pie, yellow apples too, cinnamon and cardamom, never gets too sweet nor soft, just wish it has more refreshing penetration. Medium-bodied, sufficient acidity for a brisk mouth entry and then wet stone, clay and slate blend in. The lemon to orange citrus sweet and juicy, no real bite. Some vanillin to doughy accents, like the oxidation has just begun. When it brings a pickled to brine edge you’re almost happy it’s there. The apricot, peach, nectarine, apple fruit steady at a lower level, goof from start to finish. Didn’t taste this in its youth, was likely pretty damn good based on how it has fought to get to today. 88 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Butteaux
Chardonnay
1999
$59.99
13.0%
Very dark, more amber than gold, some translucent layering but clear on the whole, big time loss around the rims, filling the glass no issue. The nose has a troubling amount of raw dough, pie flakes and honey, however, these get overshadowed by pickle brine, wet minerals, limestone and white grapefruit pith, the peach, pear, apple fruit has more skin and pit nature than juice, more taut than lean, as it warms the doughy factor rises. Medium-bodied, nice acidic skeleton, lets the flavors flow through it rather than try to stop them in their tracks. More ripeness here in the peach, apricot, pear, kumquat fruit, perhaps less thrust in the grapefruit to lemon citrus. Elevated florality, more basic red earth to limestone, semi-flat feel on the tongue. More quinine than chili pepper or pickles. Squares its shoulders through the finish, just not much flesh with which to gain momentum. Whatever its flaws you can tell it was made by classy hands. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2011
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
1999
$26.99
13.0%
Clear blackish core with some purple left, there is a very fine silt throughout, wide dusky brick red rims with an orange tinge, visually well into middle age plus. The nose is quite compact with peanut shell, merde led reductive qualities, dark plum, cherry, blackberry scents, pressed flowers, some brine, approachable but at the same time a touch standoffish. Medium-bodied, drying out some yet has good balance with some tannic grit remaining. Floral and chocolaty, orange zest, it’s grassy at turns, some twigs and bark along with cedar and driftwood notes. Semi-sour blackberry, boysenberry, mixed cherry, raspberry fruit comes through and just gets to the finish. Improves with aeration, arguably should not push this much further beyond today. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder unspecified percentages of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. 89 points
Orvalaiz, Sociedad Cooperativa Agraria
Navarra, Spain
Septentrion Crianza
Tempranillo
2000
$20.99
13.0%
Black core, fades to deep brick red before a solid yellow further out, looks quite aged, surface has remained reflective enough. Lots of cedar, sandalwood, incense, pine, dried orange peels and maple syrup in the nose, has a sort of barnyard reductive thing, concentrated cherry, blackberry, currant scents, at a good point in terms of trading off fruit for tertiary development. Medium-bodied, solid bottom, the tannins have dried out and become dusty, the acidity moderately hanging on. Cedar, tea leaf, orange peel, ginger spice, incense help enliven the stewed tomato tinged cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit. A floral side extends the finish. Interesting and can hold your attention decently, now is the time to hear the cork pop. 88 points
Dampt et Fils, Domaine Daniel
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Côte de Léchet
Chardonnay
2002
$25.99
13.0%
Greenish yellow color with good clarity, not showing real visible aging, fades some around the rims. The nose has that premature oxidation thing going on, lanolin, beeswax, honey, mint before apricot, peach, pear scents, lacks minerality to act as counterbalance but pleasing if you want a sweeter profile. Medium-bodied, has very good acidity which helps it stay fresher in the face of raw dough, honey, pastry flakes and wax. The apricot, peach, nectarine, pear fruit has a poached to dried fruit character. Sweet lemon to orange citrus, all juice and no cut. More minerals here, a likely by-product of the acidity, still nothing dramatic. Doing well considering what it unfortunately suffered, up to each individual whether she could accept the wine in its current state or not. 86 points
Gouges, Domaine Henri
Burgundy, France
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Clos des Porrets-St. Georges
Monopole
Pinot Noir
2004
$44.99
13.0%
Mild filminess to the ruby-violet hued core, good consistency to the outermost rims where an orange aura ensues, surface has good reflectivity and nothing here visually suggests a wine advancing past the beginning of middle age. The nose comes across as alcoholic even at 13.0%, there’s a vague pruney nature to the red cherry, blackberry scents alongside a farm straw, dried grass element, muddy earth and dried squeezed oranges, not offensive in any manner but just sort of clumsy. Full-bodied, lacks the sort of acidic structure to lend it freshness and pacing so it turns sluggish in the mouth at times. While twiggy or leafy at turns it does not seem “green” or unduly underripe in terms of phenolics or just too bitter overall. It is short on the finish and the fruit is concentrated but not sweet, sometimes feels forced, mainly red cherry, raspberry, boysenberry flavors. The orange to grapefruit citrus unable to add zest. Earth, olive pits, dried potpourri and licorice make for odd bedfellows. It struggles hard to push its finest attributes to the fore but, in the end, likely for naught. 87 points
Citran, Château
Bordeaux, France
Haut-Médoc
Blend
1996
$23.99
12.5%
The core remains a vibrant purple with a mild ruby cast, very clear and trim, only the rims suggest any age as orange blended into the brick red hue. Wet leather and minerally, stony earth predominate in the nose, fallen wood and wet field grasses, a healthy dose of dried oak remains next to the vigorous cherry, currant scents, develops some bell pepper with air time, very pleasing aging Bordeaux profile. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, sturdy with plenty of tannin without arch drying or roughness. The cherry, blackberry, currant fruit benefits from a stripe of orange zest and dried flowers, the oak here subdued with flavors of dried coconut and hard toffee candy. Some pencil lead next to the damp earth and field stones, less leather per se but more barnyard funk. Retains that bell pepper yet in no way green nor herbaceous. Continues to grow as it opens, a true, if perhaps unexpected, pleasure. 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot. 90 points
Strathewen Hills
Victoria, Australia
Patterson Lakes
The HJ Bate Hildesheim Vineyard
Port Phillip
Shiraz
2002
$32.99
13.9%
Clear brick red based core with the barest vestige of purple left, the rims have a washed out blood red to orange cast with maybe a touch of brown, wonderfully clear with a sparkling surface to boot, coloration suggests age but not the cleanliness. The nose features some funk at first, damp minerally earth, wet wool, soggy saddle leather, just a lot of stuff after a downpour, then you get a fluffy sort of florality and then hard candy to liqueur-like raspberry, cherry, boysenberry fruit, very heady and leaps out of the glass at you, the campground smokiness and mesquite notes the last to leave, rakishly suave. Light to medium-bodied, leverages its acidity well to put a charge in things without getting volatile. Here you get more lemon to white grapefruit and a mix of sweeter garden herbs to balance out the more animal side of the equation, rawhide, fur and merde. The oak is really just a trim beam of caramel, molasses, brown sugar and nothing overpowering. The concentration of the cherry, raspberry, blackberry, cranberry and green apple fruit helps its kick, big initial impression and then a steady decline off that. Floral, grassy, twiggy with a saline edge, even with the highly credible fruit showing it’s much more a savory than a sweet. Subtly complex, each sip challenges. 91 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1999
$65.99
13.0%
Blood red to purple colored core, dusky orange to red rust hued rims, slight film but not murky, looks middle aged plus. Leaden nose of plum, black cherry, currant scents with a dried fruit nature, sour at turns, dill and vanilla to cocoa, coconut tinged oak, fluffed up wildflowers, some leather and dried orange peels, tends to congeal into an undifferentiated mass if not entirely unappealing as such. Medium-bodied, the tannins ground up some and does not have the acidity to counterbalance and freshen so tends to clump up. The fruit brings prune, raisin to the plum, currant, cherry array, semi-sweet but not necessarily juicy. Mixed white citrus blended into tree leaves, bark, leather and iron flecks. Floral component is decent. It’s not quite a mess but there is zero clarity of purpose nor direction and in the end it’s just a decent red blend of no particular grape type. Can’t even imagine what it was “supposed” to be. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah. 86 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Aldin Red Table Wine
Blend
2001
$25.00
While clear at base the red purple core more sleek than vivacious, brighter blood to brick red hued rims, sparkling surface, certainly catches your eye at first glance. Breezy, openly knit nose of mint, anise, lemon zest, the oak toast is moderate and mostly coconut, buttered toast and hard butterscotch candy, good penetrating power in the cherry, blackberry scents, you get some pressed flowers after awhile, given its age takes some time to open and hit its stride. Medium-bodied, plush in feel without losing flow, the tannin able to provide some structure while not adding dusty nor dry sensations. Dried flowers, cedar, orange spice, coffee bean and cocoa hit the set before the cherry, red currant, blackberry fruit fully settles in. Has a warm mouth feel to it, massages itself into your mouth pores. No rough spots although you do perceive a touch of alcoholic heat, both here and in the nose. Casually serious, it was probably more viscerally enjoyable with youthful fruit but still today it has plenty with which to intrigue. Wouldn’t push it too much further, though. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon (Morisoli Vineyard, Herb Lamb Vineyard, Beckstoffer-To Kalon Vineyard), 24% Merlot (Boeschen Vineyard), 14% Cabernet Franc (Beckstoffer-To Kalon Vineyard). 89 points
Prum, Weingut Joh. Jos.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Wehlener
Sonnenuhr
Auslese AP #22
Riesling
1998
$36.99
7.5%
The golden color deepening quite a bit, not quite amber but close, while dark also clear with a slight layered shimmer, depth stays through the rims. The nose is full and keeps swelling through each inhalation, honey, fresh cream, molasses, flower water, pink grapefruit to tangerine citrus and a mix of green apple, pineapple, nectarine, apricot and mango fruit, brings a lot more lactose than rubber or diesel to the table. Medium-bodied, has a sort of hollow middle, this maybe aided by the ineffectual acidity, friendly and approachable but no freshness nor zip. The vanilla pudding, whole milk, honey, brown sugar and even milk chocolate keep it sweet, more ripe juice than bite in the lime, tangerine citrus. Few signs of minerals or stone, the energy comes mainly from the semi-tropical pineapple, papaya, nectarine, apricot, pear, red apple fruit. The flowers pretty up the finish and in some ways help to make it more apparently dry. Lacks meaningful complexity as well as regal stature but damn if it ain’t fun to drink. 88 points
Brunel, Domaine André
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Les Cailloux
Blend
2001
$39.99
14.0%
Light red-ruby to garnet in color with a dash of violet in the core, crystal clear and completely transparent, the rims take on an orange zinc cast, coloration shows age but cleanliness makes you think a younger wine. The nose has a candied sappiness to it, mix of syrup and hard candy in the strawberry, raspberry, rhubarb fruit scents, orange marmalade, garrigues, licorice and then a barnyard funk, may not have the depth and breadth to carry the latter while still highlighting the former. Light-bodied, sufficient acidity to smooth the contours and contribute to a pleasing flow. Here the grass, garden herbs, wildflowers and straw take up more space than the earth and more animalistic elements, a good thing as it protects the wavering raspberry, red cherry, strawberry, green apple fruit. As it opens you get added lemon, white grapefruit citrus and an uptick in the floral water. If you can adjust to the lack of general heft it’s quite the pretty wine and should stay in its current state for a few more years. Good food wine. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, etc. 89 points
Cape d’Estaing
South Australia, Australia
Kangaroo Island
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$43.99
13.4%
Clean red-ruby to violet core with a great deal of clarity, metallic red rust hued rims, the high sheen of the surface certainly catches your eye, nothing here visually suggests a “monolithic” wine. The nose is not lean but it is streamlined and focused, few wasted motions in the cedar, balsam wood, leather, potpourri and brown sugar barbecue sauce, the oak toast in good proportion to the semi-tart currant, cherry fruit scents, comes through as identifiably Cabernet while not leaving you surprised it’s Australian (in a good way). Medium-bodied, has tightened into a nice firm weave, feels like it shed some flamboyance to get there. Dry enough while the tannins have been ground by time into a fine powder, perhaps shortens the finish a touch. Orange citrus perks up the cherry, blackberry, Italian plum fruit. Here the oak softer with caramel and butterscotch tones. Remains floral with that sweet woodiness. Notes of soy and herbs, on the whole more savory than sweet. Likely nearing the end of its prime but it remains a fine rendition of what the grape can do down under. 89 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Schlossböckelheimer
Kupfergrube
Spätlese AP #6
Riesling
1999
$39.99
9.0%
The deepening of orange to light amber does not diminish the green tinge, slight dullness makes it seem neither particularly transparent nor translucent, more like a solid block in this glass than liquid. The nose possesses plenty of vigor, even as the elements send mixed signals, lactose and dried honey give it an older, flatter feel while the fruit features zingy pineapple, nectarine, mango peach fruit scents and something like pine sap, the citrus is active but indistinct yet tends to paper over the prettier moments of the florality, no real presence of minerals, stone or earth. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and moves at a somewhat slow pace, curious given the bristling energy in the acidity. The formidable ripeness of the red cherry, apricot, peach, white grape, melon and pineapple fruit cannot fight off a dry pucker at the end. Here you get a veneer of rubber to confuse you about the milkiness. Tangelo, pink grapefruit and lime seem the best citrus descriptors. The floral dew granted more room to move here. Opens up nicely over time and finds stronger footing. Hard to say it does any one thing superlatively. 89 points
Murrieta, Bodegas Marqués de
Rioja, Spain
Castillo Ygay
Gran Reserva Especial
Tempranillo
1989
$19.99
13.0%
Cough syrup red in color, more black than purple to be found, very clear but not due to lack of hue intensity, the garnet rims turn to an orange rust at the outer limits, spotless surface. The nose benefits from an open weave, lifts and gets the most out of what’s there, be it the vanilla powder, cinnamon spice, brown sugar glaze, walnuts, golden raisin, date to red cherry fruit, the cedar notes are sweet, potpourri drier, makes it easy to draw deeply, sit back and enjoy. Light to medium-bodied, certainly has lost some weight but not presence, the acidity makes your mouth water and the tangy pucker makes sure you can’t ignore it. Has taken on a sherry-like edge at times, the nuttiness in play against the white grapefruit, sour orange citrus. Golden raisin, date and fig with some cherry, raspberry mixed in, the later with a hard candy sweetness. The cinnamon, coriander spice blends into the cedar, oak toast, no creaminess here. Seems to be inching towards the back end of its drinking window but that assessment depends on how much of an aged Rioja slut one is. I’m all in. Mostly Tempranillo, remainder Mazuelo, Graciano, Garnacha. 90 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Arroyo Grande Valley, California
Les Galets Vineyard
Syrah
2004
$27.99
15.4%
The dark purple core comes close to being impenetrable, turns to fresh blood red, heavy effulgent brick red, while the colors may suggest age the vibrancy bespeaks a wine of youthful vigor. Floral perfume and molasses to mesquite grill smoke infiltrate the nose with a healthy amount of cherry, currant, blackberry fruit and clove and spiced orange peel, on the whole blunt and tends to pull up and just stop rather than lift and spread. Medium-bodied plus, chewy if not a bit clunky, pours itself into the mouth like wet cement and moves forward like it’s a hot August day. The tannins strike you now as slightly underripe and bitter, with the acidity creating more pucker than the raw material can handle. The orange, white grapefruit citrus has a dry pith quality but not without its own sweetness too. The mesquite barbecue sauce element persists, caramelized brown smoke, the oak seems shoved to the fore as almost a default in lieu of a natural flow. Piles on the cherry, currant, plum, blackberry fruit, sweet enough to last through the mid-palate but falters some at the end. Finds itself better with extended air time, however, still comes in under expectations. 87 points
Filliatreau, Domaine Paul et Frédrick
Loire, France
Saumur-Champigny
La Grande Vignolle
Cabernet Franc
2003
$18.99
12.5%
Filmy quality to the burnt orange-red color, no surprise given the amount of crud stuck to the cork bottom, otherwise it’s light enough to possess a fair degree of clarity, surface sheen is nice. Pressed flowers and a damp earthy funk spar in the nose, mixes in olive pits, dried orange pulp, tar and then segues to fully ripened black cherry, plum, blackberry fruit, there’s a lot going on yet nothing truly points towards Cabernet Franc per se, more like a blend of unexpected grapes, still has the visceral sweetness to please right away. Medium-bodied, layers itself closely on the tongue, lots of sappy grip. Even with the dry finish manages to avoid bitter tannins and signs of unusual phenolic underripeness. Again, more olive pit and leather than any bell pepper or outright herbaceousness. The plum, cherry, blackberry does have a mild roasted quality but nothing that would piss you off. The orange, grapefruit citrus sweet and boosts the fruit. Given how it does dry out through the end probably no sense in waiting further, you’ll lose the fruit and get little in return. 89 points
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1995
$29.99
13.0%
Dark purple core with a noticeable crimson red tint, vibrant and seriously burnt sunset orange to red rims, doesn’t look young but by the same token doesn’t look anything but vividly strong. In the nose you first notice the thick currant, cherry, blackberry scents before these get crushed by an avalanche of lead pencil, graphite, general stone, tough parched earth and matted dried grasses, old potpourri and patchouli, not unpleasant but so densely packed that it is a struggle to break the bits off and enjoy them. Medium-bodied, suffers from the same issue in the mouth, it’s so tightly wound that you have to work at liking it. It does not give you the impression that it’s in a dumb phase or closed, more so that this is its basic demeanor. The currant, cherry, plum, blueberry fruit is not meager nor weakened by age, however, its presence is moderate. Bit of mixed white citrus alongside the grassy notes, again the graphite, lead, minerally earth covers most of the territory. Some leather and damp cedar to dill accents. The tannins are quite drying and at this juncture appear to be underripe and structurally what they are. Some oaky creaminess but never an oaky wine. As it never unclenches remains on the underwhelming side. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Fieuzal, Château de
Bordeaux, France
Pessac-Léognan
Blend
1995
$31.99
12.5%
Warmly glowing brick red to purple core, vibrantly burnt rims of orange and crimson, coloration may suggest age but it’s clean and reflective and without a trace of sediment, highly attractive. The nose has a roughhewn nature and takes some time to open, minerals and earth along with leather and forest scrub set the tone, mixed citrus zest, no flash in the cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit scents but plenty of solidity, smells like a country road. Medium to full-bodied, the ample tannin and acidity frame things and channel forward progress without any undue drying or astringency. Needs a decanting to fully reveal the cherry, raspberry, red currant fruit and also the white grapefruit pith. Initial funk blows off easily in favor of damp minerally earth, undergrowth and wet horsehide, hardly any oak presence, worn cedar at best. This is a really nice wine that would please those who favor “vin de garde” wines and wouldn’t push it more than 2-3 more years lest the fruit fade more and lead to imbalance. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 91 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Lirac
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
1999
$26.99
14.0%
Dark purple core, as much black as red, wide burnt sunset red to orange rims, mostly clear with a little fine sediment at times, lively hued. There’s a witch hazel and rubbing alcohol aspect to the nose which undermines the garrigues led florality as well as cocoa and chocolate accents, has a wooly, leathery funk to it but the red cherry, raspberry fruit has enough liqueur character to show decently, not that much length. Medium-bodied, caught between drying (and seemingly underripe) tannin and that sweet, candied fruit. Finds a slice of orange, white grapefruit to support the red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, soft drink to confectionary quality in the latter. Twigs, bark, cedar pair with some dried oak nuances, less overt funk here, however, diminished flowers as well. Leaves you with the impression that a lot of applied thought went into making the wine, maybe too much, wasn’t enough to keep it all together this far out. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. 87 points
Araujo
Napa Valley, California
Eisele Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$145.00
13.8%
Flat purple colored core with a touch of filminess to the whole, quite broad brick red to crimson rims, the burnt orange tint brings a mild veneer of aging, has that sort of “brooding” quality overall. The nose seems muscular for muscularity’s sake, big floral perfume, mint and freshly buttered toast soften the blow somewhat, the black cherry, black currant, cassis fruit retains the vast majority of it’s strength, noting that butter plus the coffee and cocoa powder the oak is well knit into the whole. Medium-bodied, the powdery tannin residue brings it a dryness which both increases towards the finish as well as over repeated sips. That said, upfront the plum, blackberry, boysenberry fruit has sweetness and snap and cruises well. The oak is decidedly toasty with some butter and hard butterscotch candy elements, remains in the background except perhaps to add textural grit. The floral side present, with it a dash of orange pith and herbs. Smoky tobacco and cedar. If there is any real complaint it might be that it feels like it wants to more massive than it is, this distracts. Otherwise, classy and close to textbook. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc. 92 points
Cerbaiola (Giulio Salvioni), Azienda Agricola
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
1999
$119.99
13.5%
A very fine silt darkens the core into blackish purple territory, up close you can just see through it, turns successively more crimson to sunset red towards the rims, full outer edge of burnt orange, clean enough surface. The nose first offers leather, loamy earth and matted grasses, bit-by-bit unveils licorice, pressed roses and a small, but sweet, core of red cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit scents, very pretty but hampered by lack of staying power. Medium-bodied, smooth with a solid soak into the palate. The tannins all but fully resolved, the acidity gives it a kick now and then. The lemon and orange citrus brings tang and freshens up that same hard candy sweet cherry, raspberry, blackberry, white grape fruit. Not really “funky” but the earthiness is wet and has a tilled feel, in turn dampens the straw to hay element. The flower petals dried and not a major presence. Little bit of tobacco. Licorice, anise and a dollop of molasses covers up a few bald patches. Seamless, steady aged example of its type, doesn’t really need to be “spectacular” to please. 89 points
Henry’s Drive
South Australia, Australia
Padthaway
Reserve
Shiraz
2001
$44.99
15.0%
Brick red to blood red strives hard to lighten the black core, very heavy and brilliantly colored orange, zinc, crimson hues, kind of boring in its monolithic nature. The nose feels squeezed, plum, black cherry, cassis and then green apple scents blended into molasses, honey and butterscotch, some sweet grill smoke, bit of glazed ham, touch of animal fur and sea salts, not simple but never finds an easy flow and naturalness. Full-bodied still but has lost a noticeable amount of thickness, drying out in a startling manner. More sugar than wet ripeness in the plum, prune, cherry, blackberry fruit, all upfront with no follow through. Candied, roasted orange, tangerine citrus keeps it tasting like a flambé dessert wine. Eucalyptus, mint and anise join with flowers to put makeup on a sow. Cinnamon, ginger spice. Was much more impressive right out of the gate, just decent now. 87 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Valmur
Chardonnay
1999
$79.99
13.0%
Well layered golden brown color, has an autumnal feel, distorts your vision in the core, the hue suffers only moderate loss around the rims, surface more calm and solid than shiny. The nose betrays a honeyed, caramelized aspect alongside vanilla pudding, allowing for this there’s also ample flowers and mint alongside grapefruit, lemon zest and a smoky minerality, the peach, apricot, green apple fruit has a pit character and stays in the background, perhaps bristles more with a powerful expansiveness and nostril grip that scents outright. Full-bodied, the acidity more broad than cutting but brings added life to the grapefruit to orange citrus as well as adds pineapple, nectarine flavors to the apricot, peach, cherry base, slight sour twist. The raw pie dough, honey, caramel thing won’t go away, you can mostly ignore it but not fully, hard to exactly peg it as a sign of possible premature oxidation. More chalk and stone here than metallic minerals, yet has a palpable smokiness. The florality lost in the general energetic crackle and hum. Drinks very well both chilled and close to room temperature. Leaves you feeling you waited too long and allowed the premature oxidation demon to awaken while, otherwise, also with the impression that it would not have unwound much with additional aging anyway. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2011
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Chardonnay
2001
$32.99
13.0%
Matured amber orange color, appears to deepen even what would otherwise be empty rims, has developed a solid glow, surface retains a measure of reflectivity. The nose shows a battle between the evil forces of premature oxidation versus the righteous forces of minerals and steel, pie dough, honey and pineapple, nectarine, peach fruit scents tangle with iron flecks, sauna stone smoke and chalk, the tangerine, orange citrus wavers in picking a side, maybe a few floral notes but otherwise bound up in itself. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, the dough, vanilla and honey appear first but not really that stronger than the minerals, stream water, quinine and something like an herbal bite. Centered mostly by the orange, lemon, white grapefruit citrus. The honey tugs out a quiet floral side. Were it not for the “plague” this would likely have been a textbook example. Drinkable, especially if you can relax and block out anger inspiring thoughts of parallel universes. 87 points
Pégau, Domaine du
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Réservée
Blend
2000
$36.99
13.5%
Blood red inflected purple core, very clear, this no surprise with the immaculate cork and lack of sediment on the bottle shoulder, the rims still mainly blood to brick red with the beginning of an orange tinge, looks more “brooding” than aged. The nose favors dried grass, earth, orange peels at first and then slowly unveils milk chocolate, anise and sweetly candied raspberry, strawberry, rhubarb fruit scents, veers off into animal fur and hide before dissipating. Medium-bodied in terms of weight per se, however, has excellent grip and stickiness to increase presence. Acidity has some push to it, the tannin holding on albeit not a big factor. Wooly, furry and earthy but no sign of brett nor palpable funk. The richness of the raspberry, red cherry, strawberry fruit evident, avoids sinking into excess sweetness. The orange, lemon citrus adds jauntiness. Mix of flowers, sweet herbs, mint contributes to perfume during the mid-palate. Tightens through the finish which falls in line with the general impression that the wine is in the middle of its evolution with a few miles ahead yet. Mainly Grenache, remainder Syrah, etc. 90 points
Barrel 27 Wine Company
Santa Barbara County, California
Rock And A Hard Place
Grenache
2007
$17.99
15.6%
Dusky, although in no way unclean, purple core gets it fully into opacity, density the hallmark too of the burnt crimson rims, doesn’t look aged at all, just been through the fire, surface shine is perfectly acceptable. The nose has an open field hard scrabble quality to it, dirt, loose stones, matted grasses, bits of wildflowers, no lack of sappy onto jammy blackberry, blueberry, currant fruit scents, darker in complexion than many immediate peers, thick slabs of orange and lemon citrus, the high alcohol does not inhibit the floral mist from spreading, just good fullness. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with a sturdiness which brings added presence if not sheer weight. Light tannin helps contour the blackberry, boysenberry, black strawberry fruit, lots of layers and ripeness but not sugar nor excess concentration. The mix of white grapefruit, lemon, orange citrus raises your interest level. Not so floral, some herbs alongside the grass field grasses. Some ginger, other “Asian” spices in there. Really, does much better as a whole than analyzed parts so screw the analyzing. (Screwcap) 90 points
Sainte-Marie, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1998
$39.99
12.0%
Clear and transparent, the core retains a vestige of purple alongside the dark crimson to brick red coloration, slightly thinning out along the rims, there blood red with an orange to yellow tinge, very pretty and the differing shades of red draw you in. The nose is fully mature and features cedar, fallen leaves and bark, herbs, grill fat and beef au jus, fried orange peels and hard candy like raspberry, red cherry, cranberry fruit scents, wonderful overall sauvage character, lively and penetrating. Light to medium-bodied, while it yet has good framing acidity and some tannic oomph, it’s smooth and a fluid whole. Quite smoky, more kindling wood than oak, piles on that cedar, fallen forest matter, fennel qualities as well as here added bell pepper, grass notes. The orange to white grapefruit citrus pithy and as close to savory as sweet. The florality subsumed in part by the smokiness and the gamey, earthy accents. As in the nose, while in no way underfruited the fruit comes as an afterthought given the explosiveness of the other elements. More tang than sugar to the red cherry, cranberry, rhubarb, red currant flavors, becomes a perfume through the finish. Right where it should be. 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc. 92 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montmain
Chardonnay
2002
$38.00
12.5%
Advanced golden hue, deep but so resplendent that you don’t think of it as “old” and remains crystal clear, strong rims, very pretty to gaze upon. The nose first gives up mint, white stone, minerals before unfortunately next comes the butterscotch, caramel, pie dough which betrays premature oxidation, after that it’s hard to go back and enjoy much of the orange zest, green apple, pear, apricot fruit although this subterraneanly retains its posture and cut. Medium-bodied, here the acidity is able to cleanse sufficiently to forestall the full effects of premox, the minerals and streamwater come through, the orange to lemon citrus fresh, snap in the pear, green apple, apricot, peach fruit. There’s a real nice wine that got all messed up here. Towards the finish the caramel, butterscotch most of what you taste. At times it almost depends on your mindset and temperament and on what you want to focus. Ahh, but I was so much older then, I’m younger than that now. 85 points
Bea, Azienda Agricola Paolo
Umbria, Italy
Montefalco
Vigna San Valentino
Rosso
Blend
2005
$55.99
13.0%
Faint dullness to the core, clear reddish purple, that clarity shows through the orange to red brick rims, overall without any saturation looks “serious.” All pine, menthol, leather, caked earth in the nose then sour bing cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit and high-toned white grapefruit citrus, swerves momentarily into prune territory, pinch of marjoram and sage, has a certain rusticity to it, however, keeps that fruit salving the wounds. Medium-bodied, raging acidity rattles the bones through the attack, squeezes the fat out of the plum, cherry, blackberry, cranberry fruit, energetic zest in the orange, grapefruit citrus. Leather, rawhide, animal fur, dusty earth, stones abound, the tannin has ground itself into the fabric and rarely appears as separately seeking attention. Licorice, anise, rose petals accelerate through the finish. Hollow mid-palate. more citrusy at the end. Not sure there’s upside in holding further. 70% Sangiovese, 15% Montepulciano, 15% Sagrantino. 90 points
Pertimali (Livio Sassetti & Figli), Azienda Agricola
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
1999
$59.99
13.5%
Soft gauziness to the otherwise transparent reddish purple core, bright sunset red to burnt orange rims with a yellow outermost ring, sleek surface as well. Some oak cream, vanilla and cocoa to the nose, quickly run down by rose, lavender, orange peel notes, credible strength left in the raspberry, red cherry scents, very much in the red fruit spectrum, stays full for a nicely prolonged period. Medium-bodied, a little grit to it but smooth overall with lowkey tannin and acidity, enough to provide structure without overshadowing the matured strawberry, raspberry, cherry, watermelon fruit. The relaxed feel extends through the juicy orange, lemon citrus and licorice, roses, sweet garden herbs. Echoes of oak, touch more cream than toast, mostly as a crisp finishing element. Mild diffusion at the end, seems to be drinking as well as it ever will. 89 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
The Other
Petite Sirah
2003
$50.00
15.1%
The core is a very dark purple but not the opaque monolith you might expect, you can see through it close up and it readily yields to fairly broad scarlet red rims, saturated for sure but not “heavy” and youthful yet. The nose has a slight sulfurous funk to it, brings a wet fur element, otherwise plum, raisin, black cherry fruit rules the roost, good florality with some toasty oak and dill thrown in for good measure, mixed ambiguous citrus, chugs along simply without aspirations towards complexity, alcoholic heat decently managed. Full-bodied, more firm than flabby, the tannin persists almost as an obligatory element, toss up how much is natural phenolics versus wood. Peanut shells and band-aids are there, funk front-loaded and does dissipate some with aeration. After that the plum, cherry, cassis fruit slowly steamrolls the tongue into submission. Cinnamon, vanilla fudge, orange reduction, rose water and eucalyptus broaden the flavor spectrum. Does not “dry out” through the finish but gets drier through the finish. It’s a big, “chewy” wine that is more or less what you get at face value. Not gonna change anytime soon. 88 points
Brunel, Domaine André
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Les Cailloux
Blend
2000
$36.99
14.0%
Crystal clear brick red color, only a bit of purple remaining in the core, metallic orange rust tint to the rims, placid, reflective surface, hue-wise appears as an aging wine but can’t imagine cleaner liquid. Syrupy sweet nose of raspberry, blackberry, blueberry, cherry fruit, could pour a glass on some pancakes, cinnamon spice, milk chocolate, lemon juice, much more wet flower petals than grass, entirely focused on pleasing. Full-bodied, there’s a foundation of tannin underneath but it still strikes you as a touch soft, certainly out to coat your mouth in clingy blackberry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit. The semi-sour zip to the lemon, orange citrus in turn elevates the floral dimension here. Licorice, anise, thyme, sage, olive pit come into play here, mix of drier and sweeter elements. Chocolate, caramel nuances put the oak treatment on display. Has a stone strewn soil component ambiguously lurking in the background. In no danger of losing its primary fruitiness, might as well wait on seeing if any significant tertiary development occurs. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah. 90 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Castelli-Knight Ranch
Syrah
2004
$55.00
15.6%
Opaque purple core with a slight ruby tint, opaque with the liquid’s filminess coming through via the red magenta to garnet rims, plenty saturated yet. The fruit in the nose as thick as the day the doctor smacked its rear, plum, prune, raisin, cassis, blueberry, raspberry all jammy and sweet, benefits from a dose of white grapefruit zest, there’s caramel and butterscotch in there but subdued now, solid floral component, a flutter of eucalyptus, very fruity with little suggesting tertiary development. Full-bodied, thick and clingy mouth feel, gets you licking it all off with your tongue. Sugary sweet blueberry, blackberry, boysenberry, cherry fruit here, what acidity there is mostly beats off the prune character. That said, there is a growing stewed tomato aspect which can throw things off at times. Ripe tang to the orange, tangerine, pink grapefruit citrus element. Any tannin seems to come from the wood, still the butterscotch, toffee, molasses nuances are in proportion to the whole, which is large scaled. You can wait for mature flavors if you like but all you will get is diminished fruit, drink up and enjoy. 90 points
Moreau Père & Fils, Domaine Christian
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Valmur
Chardonnay
2002
$47.99
13.0%
Matured golden hue but nothing look truly “aged” about it, clear with only a slight dullness, the rims are full and the surface draws you into the layers below. With the first sniff you get the bad news that the wine has been in part oxidized, pie flakes, dough and caramel take up too much space in relation to the whole, there’s some stony and smoky notes but insufficient to provide the resolute focus desired, defanged orange to lemon citrus, bit of mint and anise, nothing remarkable about the apple, pear, peach fruit scents, could use more life and determination. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and attenuated, feels short and crabbed, no natural flow to it. Still, there is indeed stone, mineral, dusty earth underneath and a more purposeful orange to white grapefruit citrus. The acidity level is acceptable and not part of what’s going awry. It’s all that dough, bread, honey, brown sugar and flatness. The green apple, pear, peach fruit has snap and crispness. There’s enough going on here to make you pine for the wine it should have been. 84 points
Usseglio & Fils, Domaine Pierre
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
2000
$29.99
14.0%
Cough syrup red hued core, excellent clarity although with more basic black than any purple accompaniment, the crimson rims segue into a sunset orange at the outer reaches, sparkling surface. The nose strongly plays up the herbaceous side of Grenache, smells like a lawn mower bag with clumps of dirt thrown in for good measure, caramel and honey pair up with chocolate and an orange infusion to provide sugary delight, the raspberry, red cherry, cranberry fruit scents seem more roughhewn than supple, overall seems like a throwback than modern wine. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with firming tannin and lesser acidity, the type that make you think they are never going away and you wouldn’t want them to. The rich feel of the raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit compensates for the relative dryness, here the chocolate is powdery and the caramel hard candy. The orange citrus sour and with a twinge of white grapefruit. At times twiggy with dirt and gravelly stones, brush of animal fur too. As in the nose, wears its “flaws” proudly and wants you to chug it as much as sip it. May outlive the higher end cuvées of its ilk. 85% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2011
Fichet, Jean-Philippe
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Le Meix sous le Château
Chardonnay
2002
$49.99
13.5%
The color is deepening from a solid gold into light amber territory, however, retains a fresh shininess, transparent yet with fullish rims, looks its age. Crisp, penetrating nose of lime, tangerine citrus, oak toast, brioche, mint, floral mist and hard butterscotch candy, the apricot, peach, nectarine, apple fruit streamlined but in no way lacking, as it opens it develops a minerally smokiness which adds to its already credible lift. Medium-bodied, tangy and zesty with an electric oaky toastiness. Softens some into vanilla, honey, caramel notes which in turn succumb to the broad lime, lemon, tangerine citrus. At times you might even discern a fragment of chili pepper. The green apple, pear, peach fruit stays round and out of more brisk tropical range. More stone and sauna smoke than metallic minerality. Not the most cerebral wine but it keeps rubbing your pleasure node and makes it hard to not want more in your glass. 91 points
Mitolo
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Reiver
Shiraz
2003
$42.99
14.5%
Deep purple core stops short of black, opaque and stays that way until the about an inch wide scarlet to brick red rims, cultivates an air of seriousness. The nose has an inert quality, not immobile as much as incapable of movement, dried flowers, mint, orange peels, dark chocolate chunks, compacted cherry, currant, plum fruit scents, you sense that there would be some lift were it not so straitjacketed. Close to full-bodied and smoothly textured, albeit with a certain roughness to remind you it’s there. The tannic grip appears to be half natural and half wood, on the astringent side. Lime, lemon and tangerine make for an interesting citric array. Sweetness remains in the blackberry, blueberry, cherry, raspberry fruit, just short of outright juicy. Flowers, meadow grasses and sweet herbs fill things out further. Adequate length at the end. At present juncture it has evolved past its youth, however, does not display beneficial tertiary development. And leaves you questioning should such arrive. 88 points
Massena
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
The Eleventh Hour
Shiraz
2003
$47.99
15.0%
The black core dark enough to achieve opacity in spite of the general cleanliness of the liquid, crimson, brick to clay red show towards the rims, there a rust orange slightly lightens the crimson base color. Sour smokiness leads the nose, herbal with a minerally patina, crushed orange peels and pulp, violets, milk chocolate dust, plum, black cherry, cassis, blackberry scents, a touch too energetic in terms of being able to orchestrate the whole under a guiding principle. Full-bodied and broad-shouldered, barges right into the mouth with a kick, acidity sprayed left and right. Brown sugar, coffee bean, molasses, mesquite smoke then leather and animal hide, the oak toast ever present but submerged in the maelstrom. Sweet and sour white grapefruit and orange citrus keep the pace swift. Has a floral side, some stones but little of the animality or earthiness shown in the nose. After the first glass you notice the tannins accruing. It truly takes some time for the plum, currant, black cherry fruit to take hold although not in short supply. A part of you wants to think it was opened too early and in an awkward phase, another that no firm hand will ever get its ducks in a row. 87 points
Glaymond
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
The Distance
Shiraz
2002
$44.99
15.1%
The core is clear and mainly a blackened purple like a day old bruise, strong fiery red influence, the rims are a vividly hued mixture of burnt sunset reds and oranges, sleek surface, while lacking impressive “saturation” the spectrum of colors leap out at you. The nose is semi-tight and does allow a modicum of alcoholic fumes through, sweet grill smoke and burnt kindling, dill weed, the caramel and oak fade away in favor of pure candied raspberry, strawberry, red cherry, rhubarb fruit, grandma’s preserves about to be stored away for the winter. Medium-bodied, has seemingly shed a good deal of weight and richness, although it always seems like it was always on the acidic side with a healthy tannic kick to boot. As a result, there’s a savory quality to the red cherry, raspberry, cranberry, pomegranate fruit that brightens it during the attack but it dies off through the finish. Lemon, orange, white grapefruit helps fill the center, mint and eucalyptus, caramel and molasses glaze, the dill lower key here. Pinch of stoniness, hint of grass as well. Deserves credit for staying within itself, still, you oddly wish for more meat on its bones. 89 points
Pégau, Domaine du
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Réservée
Blend
1999
$44.99
13.5%
No cloudiness in the orange to brick red core, the purple virtually leeched out, the rims are a semi-washed out rust red, the surface is remarkably shiny given the lack of hue intensity. Lots of garden herb to lavender in the nose, milk chocolate, ginger, very plummy with red cherry, raspberry preserves, there’s a general toastiness but not necessarily indicative of oak presence, overall heavy enough to lack meaningful lift. Full-bodied, equally dense and heavy in the mouth, seems drier than expected based on the nose, residual dusty tannins perhaps. Once more, milk chocolate, ginger, cinnamon with a more biting smokiness as well as dried orange peels, leather and mild earthiness. Dry concentration and pressed fruit feel to the plum, raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit, the sugars frontloaded and dropping off through the end. Satisfying now and while a tad clumsy has a good few more years in it. Mainly Grenache, remainder Syrah, etc. 89 points
Christoffel Erben, Weingut Joh. Jos.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Erdener
Treppchen
Auslese** AP #9
Riesling
2002
$39.99
7.5%
Fat glow to the yellow-green gold color, for all of its richness also showing close to zero visible aging, fullish rims, clarity is very good. Super-sweet nose of tangerine, pink grapefruit, lime citrus, closely followed on by pineapple, peach, apricot, green melon fruit, floral, adds in washed white pebbles and spring water, remains immensely primary and unevolved. Full-bodied, big grip and sticks to every mouth pore like glue. The acidity is decent, enough to prop things up and no more. Again, very heavy on lime, mandarin orange citrus, close to full-on tropical pineapple, nectarine, peach, apricot, pear fruit. Light milky quality present alongside a vague saline touch. Excellent length, no trace of weakness through the finish. Overall, too monochrome right now. 89 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Séchet
Chardonnay
1999
$34.99
13.0%
Deep gold still holds amber hues at bay, on the whole transparent but not squeaky clean, holds on decently through the rims, your glass looks full but no aspect leaps out at you about it. Highly floral nose, almost sweeps you away or makes you think someone sprayed scented Lysol throughout the room, the lemon, orange citrus stiffens it nicely, you get a clear dose of stone, spring water and light smoke before honey, licorice and peach, apricot, yellow apple fruit scents, good staying power. Medium-bodied, sets itself squarely in the mouth and leverages the acidity to keep a firm presence from attack through finish. Not too dry, that abundant florality keeps it dewy and the orange, grapefruit citrus a touch more juicy than zesty. Mint and anise add attractive flourishes. There’s give in the peach, pear, nectarine fruit which helps it get closer to the finish line. The notes of pie crust flakes and honey remain at the perimeter. No laser zip nor meaningful minerality, stoniness, more a lack than flaw. From a macro view happy how this turned out. 89 points
Vieux Donjon, Le
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
2000
$29.99
13.5%
Remarkably clear and shiny crimson to fresh blood red core, more vermilion around the edges, any purple close to fully vacated, at times almost looks “angry” and certainly catches your eye. The nose has a subdued, close to mute, manner focusing on bark, dried fallen leaves, kindling smoke, wet fur and brown dirt, not hard to miss the squeezed day old orange peels, pressed flowers and spices, the red currant, red cherry, mixed berry scents very slowly unwind towards the end of the bottle. Light to medium-bodied, more svelte than anything, at this juncture the acidity prominent and conditioning the experience. The red cherry, raspberry, blackberry, persimmon fruit has a hard candy edge at first but isn’t sugary per se. More staying power in the white grapefruit, orange citrus, nice sour twist at the end. Metallic earth with grass and twigs but not as big as in the nose. Here, some powdered chocolate buffers the dry finish. Zigs and zags on you enough that you don’t really want to make a definitive call on it. This is when there’s great bottles, not great wines. 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah. 88 points
Droin, Jean-Paul
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaudésir
Chardonnay
2000
$35.99
13.0%
Orangish amber hues trump the aged golden hues, unblemished but translucently layered, fills the glass with color, rims have strength and decent shine across the surface. Honey, molasses, sweet pie dough, caramel all betray an oxidized wine, flat-footed, ambles into your nostrils without purpose if amiable enough, candied orange peels, apricot, yellow apple and pear fruit, what throws it all off is when the minerals and smoke try to show, you can tell there’s no “right” place for them. Medium to full-bodied, if you are in a generous mood (am), the sweetness of the peach, apricot, nectarine fruit as well as blood orange, grapefruit citrus pleasing, forestalls the deadening dough, pie crust elements. The ginger, cinnamon spice favors the latter even as the acidity provides the kind of thrust which makes you wish the flavors were leaner and more edgy. Again, there definitely are stone, mineral, chalk flavors wrapped in its past. You can drink it easy enough unless it simply offends you on too many levels but this is not what it was supposed to be. 85 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Monte Bello
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$120.99
13.4%
Not a lot of purple in the core, more black mixed with dark brick red and dried blood hues, a lot more life in the wide crimson rims, very little, if any, sediment floating about, bottle shoulder has only a fine silt on one side. The nose comes across as a bit tight, wood smoke, dill, leather, iodine, dried grass, over time more caramel and Italian plum, black currant, blackberry fruit comes out, adds more flowers and sweet spice notes too. Medium-bodied, fullness stays consistent from attack through finish. Clearly on the dry side, the natural tannin seems to have turned into a finer grit allowing the wood tannin to become more obvious. The dill aspect upfront, then mesquite honey, powdered vanilla extract, leaves you thinking the oak is more pronounced due to trailing off of the plum, cherry, currant fruit than over-oaking per se. Elevating orange to grapefruit citrus brings life. The floral dimension wrapped into the earth and animal hide parts. A “country” style wine that is fully in its drinking window and best consumed with a meal. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Tramin (Cantina Produttori Termeno), Kellerai Cantina
Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy
Nussbaumer
Gewürztraminer
2003
$39.99
14.0%
Really deep golden color, seems on the verge of orange, solidifies into the glass even if the rims do lose some intensity and the surface sheen a touch lacking, certainly would impress many for the vividness of hue. There’s a whipped cream softness to the nose, floral dew with honey and litchi nut juice, the white grapefruit helps it stiffen some, mix of apricot, green apple, pineapple, peach fruit, deserves credit for maintaining freshness and contour given general vintage characteristics. Medium-bodied, while soft and in need of some acidic punch, it is not leaden nor sluggish, just sort of chugs along at the pace it can. Tangerine, lemon, lime citrus sweet and shiny, honeyed and nutty, the florality too thick to lift. Here you get more basic peach, pear, apricot, yellow apple fruit. Touch of cinnamon spice. The vanilla, whipped cream element keeps trying to glue it to your mouth pores. You sense the pedigree taking pains to make the best of a poor situation. 88 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Clos
Chardonnay
2001
$45.99
13.0%
Deepened gold color but nowhere near bronze nor amber, verging on a mild translucency, rims on the weak side, surface sheen where it needs to be. The nose has a clear minerally smokiness alongside raw edged pineapple, papaya, nectarine, apricot fruit scents and white grapefruit pith, anise, lacks a denser center which allows lactose and dough notes to move in from the periphery. Medium-bodied, here in the mouth you get a slightly flat feel as well as yeast, dough and honey accents which suggest some of that premature oxidation thing. Still, if there, it’s not absolutely in control and that the minerals and stones perk things up as do that semi-sour pineapple, nectarine, green apple, apricot fruit. Curiously, the white grapefruit to lemon citrus lacks clear enunciation. Perhaps you get a swipe of chili pepper in there. In the end, it just oscillates too much between more linear bite and flatness to please fully. If I had more I’d drink them. 86 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Niederhäuser
Hermannshöhle
Spätlese AP #12
Riesling
2003
$42.99
8.5%
Pretty good brightness in the green gold hue, broadly colorless rims, light dances nimbly across the surface. The nose is concentrated and close to syrupy in texture, coconut and heavy cream blended into cherry, apple, apricot, pineapple fruit scents, just as sweet orange, lime, pink grapefruit citrus, some spring water freshness but vastly outweighed by the lactose notes, just kind of slutty in a fruit cocktail manner. Full-bodied, the close to complete absence of acidity contributes to its heaviness. Thick and juicy tangerine, lime, pink grapefruit citrus sets a tropical tone, followed on by coconut, vanilla custard, honey, pie crust and condensed milk flavors. Why, go figure, the cherry, apricot, peach, yellow apple, pineapple fruit layered and sugary, suffocates the palate. To its credit does try to bring a minerally, stony sparkle to the finish but this just was not meant to be. Intensity of flavor without grace or pedigreed flair. 87 points
Killibinbin
South Australia, Australia
Langhorne Creek
Shiraz
1999
$29.99
14.9%
Blackish purple core slightly dusky, clears out a lot through the rims, saturated blood to brick red rims, quite brooding, visibly aged but in no way old. The nose explodes with eucalyptus, menthol and mint, brings a lot of orange and grapefruit too, blend of red and black cherry, boysenberry, blackberry fruit, very focused and almost tense presence, the florality too wimpy to show well, shadow of stony earth under it all. Medium-bodied, the acidity shaves fat off the attack and allows a sour aspect to come through to overall benefit, white grapefruit and dill take the lead from eucalyptus, menthol. Smoky tang infuses the raspberry, blueberry, blackberry, boysenberry, cherry fruit, lipsmacking to the very end. Grill fat, leather and animal hide. While this is a fun wine in its immediacy it does show unexpected tertiary depth. 90 points
Lagrange, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1998
$35.99
13.0%
Burnt red edge to the faded purple core, very good clarity to the liquid, the rims an equally robust crimson to brick red, nice fullness. Minerally, earthy, smoky wood, dried vanilla extract, dried meadow grasses, has a good amount of tertiary stuff going on, a light floral breeze, the red cherry, blackberry scents holding on decently but obviously fading, overall moderate staying power. Medium-bodied, dry even as the tannins have nicely knit in, and without leaving too much powdery residue. A mild candied aspect helps the cherry, raspberry, red currant fruit make a pleasing mouth entry. Orange citrus zest, flowers and sweet smoke balance out the earth and stone chunks. The herbaceousness here lends a slight bitterness to the finish. Caught at the right time, highly acceptable tradeoff between fruit and development. 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Glaetzer
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Shiraz
2002
$49.99
14.5%
Blackish core helps it achieve opacity in spite of otherwise lighter purple, scarlet red core, slight orange-red bricking at the rims yet still mostly full blood red. The nose is close to total oak, buttered popcorn, caramel, butterscotch, chocolate and dill, a few seats at the table for the black cherry, cassis, plum scents, the smokiness evokes some sort of minerally and stony earth, brief suggestion of mixed white citrus, not much else going on, leaves you feeling the oak succeeding mainly due to the fruit trailing off. Medium-bodied, here there’s little doubt that it has shed some serious weight as well as youthful intensity. While the blackberry, blueberry, cherry, apple fruit is no slouch, sweetness all but gone by the finish, Hard to finger any “structure,” tannins are adequate and acidity not in the picture. The dill element really blooms here, knocks aside the caramel popcorn, butterscotch, grill smoke flavors. If you want to conjure it up there might be eucalyptus and white grapefruit citrus. Can easily claim it is not a sloppy, fruit-driven wine, however, does not replace the immediately enjoyable nature of such with anything bespeaking a more nuanced, pedigreed wine. 87 points
Ratzenberger, Weingut Jochen
Mittelrhein, Germany
Steeger
St. Jost
Kabinett Halbtrocken AP #12
Riesling
2001
$17.99
10.0%
Greenish glow to the deepening yet bright gold base, the rims somewhat diminished, clean surface shine. Aggressive nose of sea salts, white grapefruit pith, mineral dust and green grass, in between all this and the cutting pineapple, papaya, nectarine, green apple fruit you might miss the milky note, ends with something like pine sap, little soft or soaking in here. Medium-bodied, the acidity still has wicked bite, seemingly more so as the fruit has dropped a notch so that the whole experience seems drier. Not to ignore the apple, pear, pineapple, apricot, cherry fruit which is there, ably supported by a floral waft. The white grapefruit, orange citrus has you working your tongue to conjure up some moisture, retains that saline edge and grassy complexion. Keeps challenging you from the first glass to the last. 88 points
Charbonnière, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Mourre des Perdrix
Grenache
1999
$29.99
15.0%
Filmy muddle of black, brick red and purple in the core, more of a blood red to orange rust look around the rims, the surface itself does not lack for shine, bottle shoulder has zero sediment so not sure whether the filminess is a more recent development or what. Strong raisin and fig sweetness to nose, supplemented by raspberry and strawberry liqueur, mint, chocolate and lavender, there’s grass and earth enough to swing things back towards the middle, however, scent-wise this remains fairly primary. Full-bodied, while endowed with more or less the same level of sweetly candied raspberry, red cherry, strawberry, golden raisin fruit it also possesses a good deal of tannin yet, structure and the ability to fashion a dry finish not an issue. Chocolate and flowers tempered by zesty orange to white grapefruit citrus. Earth, twigs, bark and a little wet wool provide some bottom. Loses no weight through the finish as well as after some air time. No burn but you can feel the premature buzz factor from the alcohol. This has improved from its youth and appears in no danger of heading over the hill. 89 points
Closel, Domaine du
Loire, France
Savennières
Clos du Papillon
Chenin Blanc
2002
$23.99
14.5%
Rich golden color verging on amber, very good transparency, lackluster surface shine, the rims curiously thin given the general depth of hue, impressive visual presence. Mild waxiness to the nose with a big honey, lanolin infusion, pressed flowers, peach, apricot to pear fruit with an incipient poached quality, slight rubbery and milk notes build as it warms, the more you sniff the more you get from it, may even be decant worthy. Medium-bodied, very dry with the acidity blanketing the tongue right out of the starting gate. Spicy with orange peel and minerals way before any lanolin, wax or honey, the citrus builds and builds. Has a chalky, stony palate coating which blankets more than bites. The peach, nectarine, apricot, kumquat, apple fruit too dry to become really tropical, lasts well through the finish. Nothing here suggests anything more than a youthfully middle aged wine, perhaps in a somewhat “dumb” phase. 88 points
Lagrange, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Les Fiefs de Lagrange
Blend
2000
$13.75
13.0%
Dark purple core has a good deal of black in it, nonetheless clear on the whole, darkness lends gravity to the ruby to brick red rims, retains a good deal of youthfulness yet. Sweet nose of wet cedar, caramel, flowers and lavender, the cherry, blackberry scents show contour and both restraint and ripeness, opens further into orange peel and chocolate, still plump enough to come across as modern in style as well as on the young side. Full-bodied, here the tannin sets in and does lend needed dryness to otherwise fluid currant, cherry, blackberry fruit. More of that cedar, sandalwood incense, orange peel and clove, also producing notes of merde, earth and fallen wood. The oak has knit in, echoes of cocoa and toffee. Grassy uptick through the finish keeps pacing brisk. Richer upon first opening, starts to close up after half an hour or so, not sure this is a sign of waiting too little or too much. Good wine in any case, particularly at the futures price. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. Second label of Château Lagrange. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2011
Caravinsérail
Rhône, France
Côtes du Ventoux
Grains Electio
Blend
2001
$9.99
14.0%
The purple core darkened by blackish red and orange rust hues, solid brick red rims, looks advancing yet without any sediment, surface resplendent still. The nose comes off a bit funky, merde, mud and some peanut shells, short of animality, raspberry and cherry liqueur quickly punctuated before trailing off into earth, stone and mineral chunks, spritz of white grapefruit before its all gone. Medium-bodied, pronounced sweetness through the attack, loads of strawberry, raspberry, cherry fruit and then cocoa to bittersweet chocolate powder. This trails off through the mid-palate as the slightly underripe tannins step forward to dry out the tongue. The grapefruit, lemon citrus and dried flowers pick up some slack. Dry earth and stone, loses a good deal of the more serious funk here. Nothing all that remarkable in the glass except perhaps that such a little “humble” wine has chugged along so well. 52% Grenache, 48% Syrah. 86 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2004
$42.00
16.2%
Crystal clear in spite of its overall darkness, no murk at all, the core a black-purple to bright blood red, the rims pure scarlet to brick red with a sunset intensity, light sparkles across the surface as well. You get some alcoholic fumes in the nose, past that there’s a palpable grilled meat and dripping fat aspect, smoky with a mesquite to barbecue sauce spiciness, pine cone, forest and roadside scrub, last week’s orange rinds, the smokiness brings out a sourness in the otherwise close to candied raspberry, red cherry, strawberry, watermelon fruit scents, quite pleasing once you get past the alcohol. Medium-bodied, hard to tell how much weight it may have lost over time but it is silky smooth and flows without a hitch from start to finish. Touch of tannin does dry out the end some, though. Sweeter orange to lemon citrus matches up nicely with the honey to molasses notes, at this juncture isn’t showing all that much oak, no overt toast nor excessive sugary notes. There’s still good purity of expression in the raspberry, blueberry, strawberry, red to black cherry fruit, doesn’t reach too much into the black fruit spectrum and no sign of dried fruit characteristics. No burn contra nose. No bruiser, however, makes a subtly consistent positive impression. 91 points
Tatiarra
Victoria, Australia
Heathcote
Caravan of Dreams Shiraz Pressings
Shiraz
2003
$74.99
15.5%
Crimson inflected purple core that falls short of opacity, the rims mainly a thick red clay to brick coloration, attractive saturation while evincing its later middle aged state. Upon opening there’s more whipped cream, butterscotch and vanilla fudge than when it unwinds, over time a mélange of pressed flowers, beef jerky, menthol rub, white grapefruit appear in support of the concentrated, but not too dense, blackberry, raspberry, cranberry fruit scents, the alcohol level only shows rarely, overall a tightly knit presentation of a few well-chosen elements and moderate lift. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and feels as if it has shed a good deal of baby fat to reach this stage. No tannins of note but the acidity can give your tongue a twist and naturally favors the grapefruit to lemon citrus, mineral shards and lighter quinine notes. Same might be said for the florality, dewier here. At the same time, the chocolate powder, caramel and butterscotch are, not dominant, but much more evident as well. There’s a savory dried meat, leather quality throughout, touch of incense musk too. Builds up some grittiness at the end. This may not be fully developed yet, however, leaves you unsure if the trade off in search of further tertiary development will pay off when considering loss of fruit and other more primary flavors. 90 points
Sanguine Estate
Victoria, Australia
Heathcote
Shiraz
2002
$31.99
14.5%
Matured diminishing purple in the core, a mix of black and brick red, just achieves opacity, the rims completely dark scarlet to magenta, not quite brooding but, umm, full of thoughts. The nose is positively explosive with about as much eucalyptus and menthol as could possibly be stuffed into a wine, ably supplemented by chocolate and caramel swirl, potpourri, liqueur-like raspberry, red cherry, blackberry scents, molasses-based barbecue sauce coated pork, full mixture of spices and herbs, persistent without coming close to overbearing. Medium-bodied, has shed unnecessary fat, not that there was too much to start with. The pulled pork to clove-spiced ham thing in full effect, the lilacs separate more here from the eucalyptus, the latter more in general proportion. Retains that candied sweetness in the raspberry, strawberry, cherry, watermelon fruit, takes on a clearer red fruit complexion. Any tannin has been synthesized, maybe some wood tannin left by way of toastiness. Caramel and butterscotch content in supporting role. Acidity helps freshen the finish a touch. No real earthiness but not especially missed, the wine’s natural exuberance its key asset. 92 points
Canon de Brem, Château
Bordeaux, France
Canon Fronsac
Blend
1998
$15.49
13.0%
The purple in the core has mutated some into black, crimson red and burnt orange, fresh brick reds, not that aged in appearance, liquid close to spotless with a sleek surface, just a touch of sediment visible clinging to the bottle shoulder. The nose is dry but youthful in character, pressed flowers, incense, saddle leather, meadow grasses, pleasing white citrus accents add bite to the mild cherry, red currant fruit scents, while it doesn’t leap out of the glass at you it deserves kudos for integration and seamlessness. Medium-bodied, tannins have resolved without leaving a powdery grit, dry yet that white grapefruit, lemon citrus both awakens the attack and underscores above average acidity. Solid core of cherry, blackberry, blueberry fruit lasts nicely into the mid-palate. Menthol, flowers, rosemary accents provide lift while enough grass and earth to keep it grounded. Is not displaying a lot of oak, just a general lowgrade toastiness. Nothing really spectacular but, for the price, hard to argue with the results. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. 88 points
Climens, Château
Bordeaux, France
Barsac
Les Cyprès de Climens
Sémillon
1996
$21.99
13.5%
Darkened gold color, not close to amber and youthful yet, holds well through the rims, clear enough, again nothing betrays its age. Fresh nose of mint, vanilla fudge, banana compote, cinnamon and ginger spice, thick floral dew as well, not too, too sweet yet has dried fruit to paste-like apricot, peach, guava fruit scents, sweet and sour mandarin orange and blood orange, soft and easygoing and hard to see it not winning over most folks. Medium-bodied, suave and smooth with a strong creaminess, benefits from acidity which aims to brighten rather than dry out. Clean pineapple, guava, nectarine, apricot, fig fruit, sweet and not close to sugary. Tangerine, mandarin orange citrus juicy and wet, more tang than sugar here too. All this said, the honey to molasses accents have a seat at the table and pair up with vanilla and baking spices. Not syrupy, performs like a well-oiled, fluid machine, not trying to make a grand statement. 500 ml bottle. 89 points
Failla-Jordan
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$48.00
13.2%
Light purple influence to the core, mainly glowing scarlet to burnt sunset orange, brightens appreciably through the rims, defiantly lively in its retirement years. High-toned nose with a splash of white vinegar among the animal fur and hide, olive pits, wet mineral dust, damp grass, any vanilla or oak toast mostly subsumed, rugged semi-sweet raspberry, red cherry, rhubarb fruit scents add to its swelling lift, keeps nipping at you, no doubt you’ll fall asleep before it does. Medium-bodied, very muscular in a lean, wiry fashion, no fat without seeming gaunt. Pours on the olives, grapefruit, minerals, merde, grass, poor earth, developing a gritty mouth texture over time. Energetic cherry, cranberry, rhubarb fruit gets right after you, has length as well as resonance. Here it does have more molasses, caramel, maple syrup notes but nothing close to what you’d call oaky. Hate to use the allusion but has that old world feel. 90 points
Pointe, Château La
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1998
$29.99
12.5%
Faint gauziness to the red blood tinged core, any purple fading big time, the rims show a copper orange quality with a scarlet infusion, looks neither young nor old, just about where you’d expect at this stage. Very similarly, the nose brings a mix of somewhat mature cedar, driftwood, pine, menthol, orange peel, stone and earth, more vanilla powder than juicy cherry, blackberry scents, simple in a good way and the tertiary elements not pushy. Medium-bodied, the tannin and acidity still dishing it out with vigor, the fruit stands up best during the mouth entry into the mid-palate. Steadily blends in leather, merde, cedar, tree bark, incense, crushed orange peels. The black cherry, boysenberry, blackberry accompanied by a touch of sweeter blueberry. Overall, has a lot of tang which both keeps it lively while underscores the lack of relative richness. Good middle of the road juice for its sort. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Seavey
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$55.00
Black to crimson, blood red in hue, very much on the transparent side, takes on a burnt orange touch around the rims, while it does show some age it is definitely in a visually energetic elderly state. Has retained a deep plum, black currant, black cherry fruit profile in the nose, adds a muted floral to orange zest with equally demure cedar, sandalwood notes and then a pinch of cocoa powder. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with a solid, finely tuned tannic grit and powder, light metallic edge with elements of cedar, gun smoke, leather and clay earth. Bracingly sour character to the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit, full through the attack then peters off into a fairly dryish finish. You get some grapefruit along with the orange citrus, adds erectness to its posture. Has maintained very good integration and balance, however, appears to be nearing the back end of its best drinking window. 89 points
Saxum
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
James Berry Vineyard
Bone Rock
Syrah
2002
$56.00
15.9%
Crimson-black colored core, blazing orange to scarlet red rims, has the hue of a middle-aged wine but no denying the overall vibrancy. The nose has all kinds of apparently reductive notes of peanut shell and merde, if you can get past this there’s thick slabs of plum, cassis, cherry scents, presents a meager floral lift, more boost from orange citrus, chocolate powder and eucalyptus, decent depth and weight, however, somewhat clumsy and unbalanced in your nostrils. Full-bodied, at once close to a dried fruit concentration while at the same time dry and tannic. There’s an orange to lemon reduction first. The raspberry, blackberry, blueberry, cherry fruit more extracted than rich. Can’t shake that peanut, barnyard reductive side. The acidity enlivens the mid-palate a touch. The caramel, butterscotch, toffee appears to have lessened in overall proportion to the whole. Has not shown much improvement, arguably might have regressed if big fruit is your thing. Even extended air time not helping much. 88% Syrah, 12% Grenache. 85 points
Poonawatta Estate
South Australia, Australia
Eden Valley
Shiraz
2002
$52.99
14.5%
Light murkiness to the red-black core, turns to a big crimson to brick red around nicely wide rims, definitely has a brooding demeanor, sleek surface adds visual appeal. Tightly woven, close to high-toned nose of eucalyptus, mandarin orange zest, sandalwood incense, cedar, brown dirt, the cherry, blackberry fruit scents only a minor presence, a pinch of pressed, dried flowers, energy verging on violent, its rawness at once its source of appeal and repulsion. Medium-bodied, much more integrated and expressive in the mouth, the acidity really keeps it percolating while the tannin has receded. Truly comes across as cooler climate Shiraz, dusty earth, stone and a little herbaceousness as well. Smoked ham and mesquite notes, perhaps too savory for the blackberry, black cherry fruit to produce more than a perfunctory appearance. Any flowers cloaked in part by orange and white grapefruit zest. The oak has been absorbed into the whole, lasting presence sour with some dill notes. Needs a plate of grilled meats right away. 89 points
Moreau Père & Fils, Domaine Christian
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillon
Cuvée Guy Moreau
Chardonnay
2002
$31.99
13.0%
Moderately full golden color, nothing that would betray its age, vague orange tint, rims have some strength, much solidity under the surface, adequate shine above. The nose does present raw pie dough, bread notes, however, these can be compartmentalized in favor of orange peel, mint, molasses, pear to apple to apricot fruit scents, slides you the stone to streamwater notes almost as if they were a secret, to its credit keeps plugging away before relenting into a final dissolve. Medium-bodied, here the dough, pie crust, white bread notes point more towards evidence of incipient premature oxidation, although the honey to molasses element is not that pronounced. The orange to white grapefruit citrus has a curious sweet core, this as the pear, red apple, apricot, cherry fruit steady if unspectacular. The acidity has a broad, cloaking feel, lacks a keen edge. At times you kind of get this chili pepper sort of thing going on. The doughiness outlasts most else through the finish, dry in texture but sweet in flavor. Prudence suggests erring to the side of drink up sooner rather than later. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2011
Buhl, Weingut Reichsrat von
Pfalz, Germany
Armand Kabinett AP #54
Riesling
2005
$17.99
9.5%
Extremely high shine, brilliant reflectivity in the green-tinged white gold color, lots of visual vigor. A soft, powerful rubber element dominates the nose, even above the noticeably juicy peach, pear, apricot scents, not tropical really but has some light kumquat to guava notes, gains sparkle via lime to tangerine citrus, generalized florality pretties it up further, light touch evident as it dissolves. Medium-bodied, handles its ripeness well, the acidity clamps more than bites, supported by a mild fizzy feel as well as wet stone, chalk-like accents. This keeps it fluid an imbued with a swifter pace. Here the rose, lilac dimension really soars, creates more lift in the delicate tangerine, tangelo, lime citrus. The sweetness is akin to fine powdered sugar and not that concentrated, keeps it balanced between apricot, pear, apple and nectarine, kiwi, mango. The rubber element most evident as an aftertaste. Tends to sneak up on you, not too flashy, impresses through solid, professional construction. (Screwcap) 90 points
Pernot et ses Fils, Paul
Burgundy, France
Bourgogne
Pinot Noir
2004
$11.99
12.5%
More garnet than ruby in color, vaguely purple in the core, noticeable change to a more rust red and orange around the rims, squeaky clean without a sign of sediment or anything less than full-on sparkle, only the color suggests a wine of any age beyond youth. The nose is pure rugged Pinot, stones strewn across poor dirt, matted dry grasses, mild barnyard to animal funk, this more than compensated for by smoky cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit scents, this supported by a white grapefruit burst, sinewy length and presence. Medium-bodied, appears as if carved from steel, very little give yet in no way mean-spirited. Tannins may have relented an inch but the acidity fighting to the last. As might be expected, this brings out a good deal of sour white grapefruit, lemon citrus. There’s a minerally, metallic ring to it which at a few times suggests tomato skin. At the same time, you sense a dab of plum among the cherry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit, almost comes out of nowhere. The stone, earth everywhere without overextending. Tough little cuss, you can both admire and, to a lesser extent, enjoy it. 88 points
Tensley
Santa Barbara County, California
Camp 4 Vineyard
Blend
2004
$25.99
14.9%
On the whole presents a simple golden hue, some orange flecks here and there, lots of layers as it pools into the glass, rims moderately full, plenty of “legs” to boot. Sweet, full nose of honey, beeswax, orange reduction, ginger spice, vanilla bean, floral dew, the fruit has concentrated into honeydew, yellow apple, peach, apricot and papaya, for all its weight manages to avoid heaviness. Full-bodied, lacks the acidity to keep it fresh, however, it does not come across as a wine of its age. Lots of spiciness helps it percolate in the mouth through the attack. Then the vanilla, caramel, butterscotch come through to fill out the mid-palate. Creamy orange to tangerine citrus, sherbet-like. Semi-syrupy peach, apricot, apple, pear, cherry, melon fruit consistent through the finish. Has become a somewhat slutty “fun” wine which likely doesn’t have many more days ahead yet can be enjoyed now if you don’t invest too much thought into the process. 66% Grenache Blanc, 34% Roussanne. 87 points
Ravenswood
Sonoma Valley, California
Monte Rosso Vineyard
Zinfandel
2002
$29.99
15.4%
The liquid remains clear and unstained yet it does have a certain dusky quality, as if the sun is setting on a cloudless day, the core more a mix of black and blood red than any purple, the rims blood to brick red with a tinge of orange, not betraying its age at all visually. The alcohol comes through a bit aggressively in the nose, otherwise there’s ample butterscotch, mesquite grill smoke, molasses and then smoky cherry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit scents, supported by eucalyptus, stone, earth and lichens, this represents itself as a decidedly aging wine yet not a wine near its last legs. Medium-bodied, you sense it has lost weight and sweetness over time yet without drying out. Some hard candy left in the raspberry, red cherry, blackberry fruit but not a lot of wet juiciness. Pine, eucalyptus, orange peel, butterscotch get mixed in and keep it at a good pace throughout. Finds a second breath when needed. General smokiness not necessarily moored in oak, like grilled meats. Not a benchmark for aged Zinfandel but a highly credible example of an older version of the varietal. 88 points
Oliverhill Winery
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Jimmy Section
Shiraz
2002
$25.99
14.7%
Clear blackish core with very little purple or crimson to flesh it out, extremely effulgent crimson, scarlet to blood red rims, very broad, does not come across as anything beyond middle age. There’s a great deal of ripeness in the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit scents but no dried fruit characteristics, juicy blood orange to tangerine citrus, mint and anise, the floral side met by metallic to tomato skin aspects, the cocoa, butterscotch, vanilla notes have receded back into the whole, eucalyptus and menthol make an obligatory appearance, tends to want to overpower you rather than make sure you register each individual scent. Close to full-bodied, only qualm is that it sheds a good deal of weight through the finish, any tannin and acidity there ends up conditioning the attack much more than anything afterwards. Black currant, cherry, plum fruit, semi-pit nature, segues seamlessly into caramel, butterscotch, vanilla and chocolate embellishments. The mint to menthol elements team up with orange zest to create a swirl in the inner mouth. Eschews the flamboyancy of what would generally be expected, does not achieve a lean, tertiary character but is not made wholly of the plumpness of youth either. It is the minerally, quinine tang that sets it apart, stone and just poor dirt. Even at this semi-advanced stage the oak plays too large a role, when considering the desire to see tertiary development shine. Absolutely no problem draining a full glass, just wish it did not taste as similar to its youth as it does. 88 points
Pégau, Domaine du
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Réservée
Blend
2001
$42.99
13.5%
Somewhat blackish core, burnt crimson to brick red core, dark orange rims, admirably clear through to the final glass, surface shines well, looks more or less middle-aged. Prune, raisin meet plum, cherry, raspberry in the nose, the alcohol gives it a light boozy lift but not that unsettling, strongly floral, mint, caramel, there’s animal hide and perhaps a whiff of brett alongside the cedar, at this moment the fruit remains a very dominant presence yet, seems to be entering its best plateau. Medium to full-bodied, softish but no wimp, has a decent tannic, acidic backbone to prop up the chocolate, toffee as well as prune, fig elements. All this before it really revs up with white grapefruit, lemon zest and snappier red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit. Ginger, clove spice mix into the blend, keep it sweet and approachable even as there’s a swift herbaceous swipe near the end. Has a wooly dimension, almost wet, subs for full-on animality. Its energy now indicates there’s plenty of room to grow and it does open a lot with extra air time. Mainly Grenache, remainder Syrah, etc. 92 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaudésir
Chardonnay
2000
$41.99
13.0%
Bright, shiny deep green tinged yellow color, the rims empty out some, looks aged but in no way old, the shine really carries the day. Lemony nose with lime, grapefruit notes, finely crushed minerals, mint leaves, good snap and spine in the pear, green to red apple, peach fruit scents, pleasing lift without being too airy and losing weave, has a few dough and bread accents, however, remarkably fresh. Medium-bodied, even more lemon, white grapefruit citrus zest, brings the minerality, chalk along on the sparkly ride. Slight oak toast, crisp but mostly knit into the whole. Floral here, adds strawberry and kiwi into the otherwise peach, pineapple, green apple, apricot fruit. Mild peas and grass character helps it stay vertical. You can say that it has certainly relaxed over time, yet, has a healthy youthfulness too. Good wine and with a few years more of potential added upside. 92 points
Graham’s
Douro, Portugal
Vintage Port
Blend
1985
$89.99
20.0%
Youthful yet ruby-purple color, fine silt but no chunky sediment, this even after viewing a decant through cheesecloth, rims turn a touch more brick red to garnet but not much more. The nose shows a more gentle touch by emphasizing yellow raisin, date, fig over darker fruit, the caramel, butterscotch, rumcake pull back and allow the whole to mask any undeniable alcohol presence, has a meaty side in the vein of sweeter breakfast meats. Medium-bodied, shows a pleasing spring to its step, lets the orange citrus and mixed flowers reach the head of the pack, allowing the yellow raisin, date, fig to concentrate but not weigh down the apricot, mango, papaya, nectarine fruit, piquant grapefruit and orange citrus playing their role too. The cane sugar, butterscotch, maple syrup flavors are all voluble, jolly all the same. Cinnamon, ginger, any spice errs to the sweet side. On the whole the flavor profile is adequate, however, on the weight and “presence” ledger falls short of an exemplary vintage port. Unspecified percentages of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, etc. 88 points
Foley Vineyards, Robert
Napa Valley, California
Claret
Blend
1999
$100.00
13.5%
The black to purple core set in further relief by the brick red to crimson rims, a vibrant anger in the latter, vivid enough that you might not recall to try and guess its age, trim, unbroken surface. The nose displays a great deal of polish, the caramel popcorn, toffee to coffee ice cream scents with tangy orange to lemon citrus, gently contoured cherry, blueberry, blackberry scents, taking into consideration the flowers and mint this does not offer a suggestion of anything beyond what you’d find within six months of bottling. Full-bodied with an adequate nimbleness to its step, casts itself in the flattering light of butterscotch, caramel, mint, molasses and coffee, combine this with the currant, boysenberry, plum fruit and there’s not much room for anything to go wrong, even if it wanted to. Mesquite grill smoke, wet cedar, after some sips you start to feel challenged to find something wrong with it, this a by-product of not finding anything exceedingly right with it. This is a no-win spiral of youthful fruit and pulverized, granular tannin that dries like a fire extinguishing powder. To restate, no flaws at all but no fireworks, eminently drinkable but not at this magnitude of price. 67% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon. 89 points
Viader
Napa Valley, California
Proprietary Red
Blend
1997
$55.00
13.5%
Vibrant blood red to black hued core, moderate clarity with loose sediment, the rims giving up about as much yellow as orange, looks like a five day old bruise. Peanut shell, vanilla, cocoa, caramel, mild mint coating to the flowers, just a glimmer of cedar or any notable oak, well packed plum, cassis, cherry paste, sort of like wet cottons swabs in your nostrils, medicinal lift starts to scrub things out as it dissolves. Medium-bodied, the caramel, butterscotch, toffee remind you that there were no corners cut on the oak, smoky with an open grill aspect. Close to pruney at moments, finds sufficient flow to express plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit, allowing for a slowing pace as it progresses through the palate. The toast interferes with the ability to clearly judge the acidity, tannins more woody than else. You might be convinced to find cedar or leather nuances, or not. From start to finish, its plumpness remains its signature. If there’s naught but a bare nod towards tertiary development by now, one might reasonably forgo the expectation. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Smith Haut-Lafitte, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pessac-Léognan
Blend
1996
$39.95
12.5%
Red ruby close to equaling the purple in the core, orangish cast as well, close to glowing, sleek surface, the rims look like a sunset, all kinds of reds and oranges. The nose initially shows a lot of coconut and vanilla then stiffens into general oak toast, close to roasty, sour red raspberry, red currant, red cherry that’s close to angular, very smoky, minerally earthiness helps to anchor it and pair up with a herbal streak, good stuff hiding there under the oak. Medium-bodied, needs a bit more weight around the middle to handle the heat, the acidity adds tang to the red currant, cherry, cranberry, pomegranate fruit, doubly so for the white grapefruit, orange citrus which comes close to explosive. Mineral chunks, brown earth, dried meadow grasses, olive pits, as with the nose it’s caught between striving to be “modern” and “traditional,” maybe falling short on both counts. Short finish underlines it being at cross-purposes. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 86 points
Pira, Luigi
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Nebbiolo
1996
$34.99
14.0%
Spotless and clear, much of the purple has evacuated the core in favor of burnt scarlet to brick hues, medicinal orange to yellow further out towards the rims, while clearly and older wine still extremely pretty. Quintessential pine, rose petal, licorice and orange peel, smoky aspect to the cherry, blackberry fruit, concentrated hard candy sweetness, not sugary, perhaps lacking in finesse in favor to power, arguably and curiously loses some length as a result. Medium-bodied, pleasing interplay of sweet and sour, you know it’s there from the first sip. Albeit, some of this may be attributed to the alcoholic burn. Bit of prune to the otherwise plum, black cherry fruit. Black licorice and chocolate appear next, alongside the rose flowers capable of covering up much of the alcoholic flaws and increasing general flow. The orange citrus element plays a big part and comes close to dominating the back half. All in all, it’s a pleasant and satisfying “normale” bottling that shouldn’t be held to too high of a bar, just consumed with gusto. 89 points
Usseglio & Fils, Domaine Pierre
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée de Mon Aïeul
Blend
1999
$49.99
14.0%
Burnished red-orange trumps most of the blackish purple in the core, dark pumpkin orange hued rims, not a blemish nor stain to be found. Lightly plummy nose with a harder edged raspberry, red cherry, strawberry element, even the floral side kind of tough minded, garrigues, wildflowers and herbs, very dry orange peel, chocolate dust, it definitely fills your nostrils in terms of weight, if not scents. Medium-bodied, stern in some ways, dries up as it progresses forward. Sour candy raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit gain some reverb from the white grapefruit, lemon citrus. Chocolate and vanilla swirl then ensues, floral water, orange zest, then gets a little herbaceous in an acceptable manner. The acidity gives it push but it actually has a surprising amount of tannin as well, leaves you curious to see where it might go with that. Drinking nice now if you like it with some ’tude, maybe wait a few more years to soften. 95% Grenache, 5% Cinsault. 89 points
Saint Cosme, Château de
Rhône, France
Gigondas
Valbelle
Blend
2001
$53.99
14.0%
The core is more garnet with some violet to deepen it, clean while achieving semi-opacity, the red garnet has an orange zinc edge, surface shine adds youth where the base color is aging. The nose has a rubbery reductive note that distracts, then pine, tea leaves and orange peel and a gently spreading caramel aspect, while deep the raspberry, blackberry, cherry, blueberry fruit keeps flitting in and out like a loose light bulb, it remains primary but not a fruit bomb per se, more like a lack of noticeable tertiary development. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity and tannin are present while not inclined to step in much. Chocolate, cocoa and caramel join with sour orange zest to beat the fruit to the center of the stage. The latter mostly raspberry, strawberry, red cherry with cranberry and pomegranate for added bite. Pine, tea leaves, basil, thyme, an interesting assemblage of different stuff, perhaps it does not a little more time to come together. Or maybe not. Or maybe so. Or maybe not. 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah. 88 points
Valentini, Azienda Agricola
Abruzzi, Italy
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Trebbiano
1998
$76.00
12.5%
The bright sparkle to the liquid runs counter to the aged yellow gold color, transparent with a gentle diffusion around the rims, strong accumulation of tiny bubbles along the bottom of the glass. Yeast and lees prominent in the nose, cinnamon and baking spices as well as sage, marjoram and bay leaf notes, the orange peels well dried, certain flatness in the apple, pear, apricot fruit scents helped by honey accents, spreads more broadly than deeply. Full-bodied, here there’s a quinine to tonic water edge which breathes life into the attack, teasing out added stone and white mineral notes. Really needs air time and to warm some to strut its stuff, once achieved the peach, apricot, nectarine, apple fruit finds solid footing. Lemon and orange citrus juicy while turning more sour towards the finish. Semi-bitter raw nuts challenge the honey, baking dough components. The same bay leaf, sage, celery seed nuances persist. Retains its heaviness and density completely through the end. An interesting drop, chameleon-like, sometimes for the better, sometimes not. 88 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Preuses
Chardonnay
2001
$64.99
13.0%
Clear and subtly shiny deep gold color, light reflects off the surface well, really only the concentration of the color closer to amber reveals any age, rims show strength. Lilacs and lavender blend with keener lime to lemon zest to make for a good initial penetration into the nose, backed up by mineral dust and sauna smoke, very light breadiness under the just ripened peach, pear, nectarine, pineapple fruit scents, strengthens as it warms in the nostrils, no loss of vigor. Full-bodied, good acidic frame to keep things dry and zesty, scrapes the tongue in a good way. Conversely, sweeter profile to the lemon, lime, pink grapefruit citrus, supports and lengthens the yellow apple, pear, peach, nectarine to pineapple fruit. Masculine floral lift, nothing soft about it. Stone bits, pebbles, mineral water fill out the remaining spaces, not overly complex but adroit at covering the basics. Keeps you licking your lips through the end. Maybe just a very slight sign of future oxidation, or maybe just paranoia. In any event, drinking well and the voices say pull the cork. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2011
Melness
Canterbury, New Zealand
North Canterbury
Riesling
2003
$19.99
9.0%
Pale, if slightly luminescent, yellow color with a vague green shimmer to it as well, glow as well as paleness both help it extend through the rims, nothing unusual about the surface shine. The nose is sugary sweet with an emphasis on powdered soft drink lime, tangerine, lemon citrus, floral dew and fresh mint, this not to diminish the obvious presence of fresh rubber notes, the pineapple, guava, kumquat, nectarine fruit scents sharp and penetrating, if blunted some by milk and rice pudding notes, light brush of cinnamon and honey, steady and prolonged presence. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, has an undercurrent of saliva inducing acidity, however, equal lactose and milk accents which match up with the rubber to give it credible aged Riesling character, even if the milkiness could be done away with without anyone minding. Not as sweet as the nose might have suggested and the pineapple, nectarine, guava, peach, kiwi fruit seems more fresh than sugary and concentrated. The lime, tangelo citrus does retain its sweeter character. Any honey is a dab at best, prettied up more by floral mist and baking spices. Very good wine that likely will suffer if the fruit loses too much of its current freshness in any tradeoff. (Screwcap) 91 points
Knoll, Weingut Emmerich
Wachau, Austria
Loibner
Ried Loibenberg
Smaragd
Grüner Veltliner
1999
$34.99
13.5%
Very dark coppery orange color, looks like it spent a few decades in an amphora, richly layered into the glass, surface shine sufficient to stave off any dullness, likewise the hue has deepened so as to fill in the rims well. The nose nicely avoids reduction and excessive aged milky notes, the peach, apricot, pineapple, guava fruit as fresh as dried fruit in feel, there’s prickle to be found in the tangerine, grapefruit citrus accents, brush of honey and sweeter garden herbs, after these surface a sprinkling of white pepper, finishes with a meaty smokiness, quietly complex. Medium-bodied, while it has the weight, the apparent lack of meaningful acidity keeps it in a more languid state than desired. Here you do get a bit of that milky aged quality, nevertheless the sweet richness of the pineapple, papaya, guava, apricot, peach, pear fruit more or less cloaks most flaws. The white grapefruit, orange citrus stays tart and pleasingly biting. More of a generalized greenness here than herbs, grass or other forest matter. Fattens through the finish. Just wish it had more verve and refreshing acidity, otherwise quite nice. Well-chosen food could likely fill in the blanks. 89 points
Prum, Weingut Joh. Jos.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Wehlener
Sonnenuhr
Spätlese AP #5
Riesling
1998
$28.99
7.5%
Pale luminescent yellow color with a tinge of green in there too, on the whole transparent but does bend light and distort vision some, hue diminishes around the rims, basic surface shine. The nose comes across as very relaxed, unto flabby, cheerfully lays out the pineapple, kumquat, nectarine, apple fruit scents, almost blissfully unaware of how the milkiness robs it of much freshness, tire rubber plays a major factor, the flower petals sucked into a vanilla pudding creaminess, light touch of chili pepper, alas, it’s just seriously crashed out on the couch. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, presents disturbingly weak acidity, enough so that the freshness depends exclusively on the stone, stream water aspects. Not to say that the peach, apricot, apple, pineapple fruit is out of shape, more that the flavors are indeed there yet in need of channeling. Nicely floral with a sweet mist to the lemon, lime, tangelo citrus. Less overtly milky, more creamy with that same pudding to whipped cream overtones. The de rigueur rubber evinces itself from the start, joins in fashioning a softer mouth feel. In no way cloying, the finish is clean and succinct, still this needs to possess more spine and energetic follow-through to warrant a higher appraisal. 87 points
Moreau Père & Fils, Domaine Christian
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Clos
Chardonnay
2002
$52.99
13.0%
The golden color has deepened appreciably, clean enough given its concentrating hue, hues hold alright through the rims, so-so- surface reflectivity. The nose tenaciously holds onto a leaner, more densely packed profile but it is a losing battle as the premature oxidation is slowly working its way through the whole. Honey glazed pastries, bread and sweet baking spices hold sway over the apple, pear, peach fruit, softens the latter up, minimal snap or crunch, whole lot of sugary mineola orange to pink grapefruit citrus accents. In the mouth the acidity can still pull something positive out of its ass and keep it more medium-bodied and firm than fuller bodied and flabby. The orange, lemon, grapefruit citrus has some backbone and the ginger, cinnamon spice, butterscotch willingly pairs up with more grassy notes, charges the batteries for a few moments. The peach, apricot, pear, yellow apple and melon fruit starts to relax and get blurry. Muffin dough and general early morning pastry shop feel in the air. You have to concentrate to get at any meaningful minerality or stoniness. Still, it has not fallen that far from the tree, it tastes like a Chablis, this statement clearly demonstrating a limited shelf life. Enjoyable more if you make believe it belongs in a different category of other pedigreed white Burgundies than Chablis. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2011
RayLen Vineyards & Winery
Regional Blend, North Carolina
Category 5
Blend
2007
$18.00
13.8%
Black core with a lot more red to it than purple, clean while mostly opaque, the rims are completely burnt orange to crimson, looking like an aging wine. The nose is woody, as in driftwood, bark, cedar and sour grill smoke, more metallic than earthy, the oak is actually not overdone given its relative dominance, the cherry, blackberry, plum scents solid enough, if on the dry side. Medium-bodied, here there’s a great deal of dry, dusty tannin, almost to the level of sawdust, as well as finely grained earth. The oak level is kind of high but not that sweet, no caramel or toffee but has some cocoa dust. The plum, cherry, blackberry fruit dry and short-lived, touch of prune. Now and then there’s orange zest, cedar, tea leaf, tobacco and dried flowers. Seems to haphazardly wax and wane from sip to sip, glass to glass. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot. 86 points
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Amery Block 6
Shiraz
1999
$38.00
14.7%
Not a whole lot of purple left in the core, mainly black with a brick red cast, certainly the rims bring a strong burnt red, vermilion to maroon hue, aged but not old, good surface luster. In the nose you immediately sense that the oak has pared itself down to a more concise message of vanilla powder, cocoa as well as cedar, kindling wood smoke, also serves up a considerable amount of orange citrus with white grapefruit shades, odd grapey quality to the otherwise cherry, plum, blackberry fruit scents, gives it a youthful blush, light menthol with more sour grassiness available, overall not very pushy. Medium-bodied, similar to the nose in that there’s a lot more reverb of more bodacious oak and fruiting than there is appearance of new tertiary aspects. So, what you get is muffled caramel popcorn, butterscotch, vanilla and grill smoke as well as more shaved down plum, cherry, blackberry fruit, the latter with a notable tart bite, this welcome. Indeed, one could point to the positive charge of acidity throughout, breathes life into what might be a weaker profile. The citrus charge a nice touch, dovetails with what eucalyptus or flower there be. At times you can also convince yourself there’s a sizeable portion of minerals and earth. Taken as a whole, it’s a very good wine, one that would do justice to a beef stew or real fatty cut of beef. 89 points
Graillot, Domaine Alain
Rhône, France
Crozes Hermitage
La Guiraude
Syrah
1999
$26.99
13.0%
Very fine sediment, hard to avoid, deepens the otherwise still opaque purple core, close to black, heavy set crimson to brick red rims, not showing any obvious signs of aging. The nose wisely slides the green olives, leather, wet animal fur and mineral dust before the robust cherry, cassis, blackberry fruit scents just about fully take over, aggressive energy infuses the white grapefruit, orange citrus, still plenty of life left in the chocolate, caramel oak notes, sweet grill smoke evident as well, excites you to sniff it even as it remain in a shockingly primary state. Medium to full-bodied, the only sign of aging here is a mildly pulverized, dusty quality to the tannins, acidity stable and able to cleanse. More tartness to the red cherry, currant, cranberry fruit here, “red” character. The orange, white grapefruit, lemon citrus a big time player, keeps the fruit in the cherry, raspberry, blackberry range rather than more dried fruit. Molasses, brown sugar and caramel very much in the spotlight. Not much earthiness or minerality but has the good kind of green, herbal notes to imbue it with a spine. Just weird for how unevolved it is, this without any suggestion of where it’s going. Hence, why wait on the unknown, just pop and pour today. 91 points
Bernard, Guy
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$35.99
12.5%
Crimson-purple with a noticeable burnt orange coast, especially at the rims, lots of fine particulate floating even after 48 hours of standing up, otherwise it’s very bright and shiny, burnished surface. Hard candy, cherry, raspberry nose with fluffy herbal matter, fennel and sage, leaves and crushed wildflowers, more restrained orange peel and earth, has some stone notes but demure animality. Medium-bodied, razor sharp acidity, however, the ripeness of the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit sparkles throughout. At once you get more pronounced flowers and sweet orange/grapefruit citrus paired with stone, olive pit, rawhide. The grass, hay, mottled leaves don’t approach unsettling “greenness” but does bring pleasing zippy bite. Holds intensity both through the rear palate and finish as well as simply some time after the bottle has been opened. No problem seeing a long drinking plateau for this one. 92 points
Spencer-Roloson
Lake County, California
Clear Lake
Madder Lake Vineyard
Syrah
2005
$31.99
15.2%
Black-red core, virtually no purple, the rims a very clean brick red, respectable clarity, shiny surface, just the hues lack vibrancy. Somewhat reductive nose, plum to prune, cassis, chocolate powder, wood smoke, saddle leather, hard caramel, the fruit is receding, bolstered some by that oak, pleasing orange reduction, not sure you can say there’s interesting tertiary elements, rolls on for some time on sheer momentum. Medium-bodied, has as much of a velvety texture as could be expected, especially given the powdery, woody tannins. Mixed vanilla and chocolate dust, hint of drier butterscotch. Tart edge to the blackberry, black cherry, boysenberry fruit, albeit with a prune touch, the latter devoid of sweetness. Burst of orange zest helps provide presence. As it never really swells, finish comes across as even-keeled and more balanced. Tacky, flattened finish. Not horrible yet leaves you with the impression that it’s a paler shadow of its youth. 85 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Grenache
2004
$35.00
15.5%
Cough syrup red color, mild purple inflections in the core, the rims light and clear display an aging brick red cast, manages a certain warmth in addition to its cleanliness. Lots of candied strawberry, raspberry, watermelon fruit in the nose, this alongside wet wool and cut grass, semi-sweet lemon juice and wildflowers, twiggy too, really has to rely on the fruit it make a positive impression, once that’s gone it gets sour and smoky, in the bad way. Light to medium-bodied, some dry astringency in the tannins, phenolics seem underripe. The raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit retains most of that candied feel but lacks length. The lemon, white grapefruit citrus sort of pedestrian. Finds relief via milk chocolate to caramel, this too short-lived. Stemmy and twiggy, modicum of wet smoke. Not really going anywhere. 83 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2003
$39.99
13.0%
Darkening gold color, not quite bronzed yet, clear with a semi-translucent layering, mild petering out of hue depth along the rims. Shows its semi-oxidized state in the nose, raw dough doused with pickle juice and brine, even the honey seems staunched, naught but a suggestion of minerality or stone, the pear, apple, peach fruit scents don’t fare much better, mint and licorice tries to bandage things together but it’s simply too disjointed. Medium-bodied on the whole, sometimes clumsily heavy, entirely flat-footed as the lack of acidity and the oxidation make for a wine in a coma. Flavors barely make it past the mid-palate, be they honey, orange peel, mint or apple, pear, green melon fruit. Close to desiccated, simply very little to hang your hat on here. Were it only cloyingly sweet and soupy from the oxidation, just flat soda. Tasting note continued out of obligation to bring it to a comprehensive conclusion. Down the sink she goes. 81 points
Paternoster, Azienda
Basilicata, Italy
Aglianico del Vulture
Don Anselmo
Aglianico
2003
$101.99
14.0%
The purple core is deep enough to slide into opacity, no sign of filminess nor muddiness, in fact the scarlet to blood red rims underscore the cleanliness of the liquid, dressed to impress. The nose immediately shows the best and worst of the vintage, sugary plum to prune, dried cherries and apricots, pine sap, lemon meringue then, conversely, green dried herbal matter, tree bark and merde-inflected earth, the longer it sits in the nostrils the more it contracts into a resistant ball of anger. Medium-bodied, pretty much duplicative of the nose with the exception of the green tannins lending more bitterness and pucker. Lots of sugar and front-loaded sweetness in the plum, cherry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit, no lasting effect. Ginger spice, dried orange pulp, pine and wildflowers, impressive if you only measure the initial splash into the mouth. There’s character in there but both phenological underripeness and reluctance to lean in terroir hamper overall. 87 points
Alternatively you can continue on to read tasting notes on other older wines Hanes has put out of their misery.