Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in December 2010
Baumard, Domaine des
Loire, France
Savennières
Clos du Papillon
Chenin Blanc
1997
$20.99
13.8%
Super-rich and aged gold to copper color, more orange than yellow at this point, makes the hueless rims more noticeable, deep enough to bring subtle translucency to it, surface still shines brightly. The nose brings a boatload of honey, filo dough, buttered croissant flakes as well as fresh cream and buttermilk notes, cinnamon and lemon reduction, poached fruit aspect to the apricot, peach, yellow apple scents, has girth but not that much flab. In the mouth it’s medium to full-bodied, the acidity goes a long way towards creating good posture as well as tempering the overall sweetness. There are a few oxidative suggestions going on, however, for all the lactose and cream present it still leaves you with a sneaking suspicion that it is just in a middle-aged “chrysalis” period as permanently turning to goo. Chenin can be crazy like that. Honey with lemon and orange pulp, cinnamon and nutmeg spice, more yeast than baked bread or danish here. In turn, more stone and lower mineral here too, curiously elevating at warmer temperatures. No lack of sugar to be found in the apricot, peach, pear fruit, comes with leaner green apple to pineapple too. If it does indeed lose some flesh and turn drier, could really be something. 88 points
Paternoster, Azienda
Basilicata, Italy
Aglianico del Vulture
Rotondo
Aglianico
2004
$89.99
14.0%
Perfectly opaque purple core, not quite black, dense garnet to brick red rims with a hint of magenta, glimmering surface. The nose brings on a good deal of oaky smoke and toast, its bruising nature exacerbated by ashes, tar and iron, the earthiness is damp and metallic, days old dried white grapefruit rinds, lemongrass, there’s a good amount of plum, black cherry fruit struggling to speak under it all, ends with an increase in twigginess and leafiness. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, broad and muscular with a tannic structure that never heard the word “compromise.” Thick and sappy currant, plum, cherry fruit, has to be totally sweet to survive next to the ash, coral, tar, tree bark, bitter grass elements. The white grapefruit and lemon citrus has juice but it’s all sour. Dill and sage accents. It’s safe to say that this is a wine you have to know you’re going to have and be able to prepare for. With all of that fruit and abundant florality to boot, it takes a little too much pleasure in kicking your teeth in. 87 points
Josmeyer & Fils, Domaine
Alsace, France
Les Folastries
Gewürztraminer
2005
$35.99
13.5%
Deep golden color, as if carved out as a block, that said, not as advanced looking as you might guess, if not there when younger has taken on a palpable filminess worn gold with chrome touch, hard to distinguish core from rims so the latter gets a pass. There’s a bracing sour “fuck you” to the nose, very raw nuts, then pralines, dried litchee, lemon curd, the vanillin touch does jack to temper the attitude, even the semi-dried fruit character found in the apricot, pear, peach scents, the stone and earth could take more territory but relents, the floral lift itself is withdrawn and close to obligatory. Full-bodied yet leaden and kinda close to immobile unto dead. The acidity found refuge in a witness protection program. Grilled honeyed nuts, litchee, lemon and tangerine reduction, rose petals, all the usual suspects accounted for, simply it can’t orchestrate them into a pleasing whole. The most regrettable part is the thickness, if lifelessness, of the apricot, nectarine, peach, pineapple fruit. Taking this under consideration, has a core of sweetness which can hold your attention. Leaves you sensing that it has aged, however, the basic demeanor remains unchanged. (Composite Cork) 87 points
Killibinbin
South Australia, Australia
Langhorne Creek
Shiraz
2001
$29.99
14.5%
Black core, darker than purple segueing into dark crimson and brick red hues, nice shine to surface, overall appears aged without seeming “old” per se. The nose remains voluptuously full, mint, licorice, coconut custard, eucalyptus, candied oranges, then an advancing prunish edge to the plum, black cherry, blackberry scents, while jollily fat achieves sufficient nostril penetration to have lift and movement, some smokiness and burnt cocoa powder, nothing suggests meaningful tertiary development. Full-bodied, the tannins starting to take on a powdery, pulverized dimension, otherwise silky in texture and smooth all the way to the finish. Lays on blueberry, blackberry, raspberry and red cherry fruit, sweeter through the attack than the end. Smoky molasses, caramel, butterscotch, maple syrup, fruitcake and candied nectarine, apricot, peach, yellow apple fruit with more sugar on top. Eucalyptus, mint, anise and flowers behave more as makeup than a core element. Still, hard not to like it, bottle gets emptied swiftly. 89 points
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
2002
$32.99
13.0%
Deep golden color with a palpable orange to amber forming but not yet dominant, fair amount of hue loss around the rims, the sleek surface brings out more youthfulness. The nose betrays more oak than premature oxidation, lime and lemon zest, freshly buttered toast, butterscotch, mint, rose petals, not totally over the top but, at the same time, the “house style” is in effect, pineapple, papaya, peach, green apple fruit brings more cut to the proceedings, provides basic stone and mineral water aspects but nothing unique, wins points for aggression without tedium. In the mouth it’s close to full-bodied with the kind of acidity which helps posture while not canceling out the desired slut factor. Caramel, toffee, whipped cream and butterscotch get marquee billing, the lime, tangerine, lemon citrus both juicy and sour. The fruit trails off a touch at the end but the initial verve in the pineapple, kumquat, papaya, nectarine, apricot flavors more than compensates. The mint, flowers and close to pine breeze continues. It can easily be ceded that this is not textbook, your grandpa’s Chablis but it does have its winsome charms and remains in fighting form. 89 points
Brunel, Domaine André
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Les Cailloux
Blend
1999
$34.99
14.0%
While transparent, a haziness layers it, orange-browning influence shades the former purple core, more zinc with a touch of yellow closing in on the rims, light bounces off the rims. The nose drips like a wet cave with prune, plum, golden raisin, fig, cherry, raspberry fruit as well as honey lemon and orange juice, rain drenched wildflowers, touch of meat fat, has some stone and grass, however, this yet remains incredibly primary and fruity. Full-bodied, soft acidity and tannin, more weight and density than anything like structure. Tangerine, lime, orange reduction pairs with flower water, adding in semi-sweet chocolate and hard toffee keeps it sweet ever as the juiciness drains off through the mid-palate to end. The florality helps to shake off some weight through the finish and further brings slight lift. Leaves you really hoping there’s still development to come but if this current goopiness is what you’re going to get here on out. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, other. 90 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Castelli-Knight Ranch
Syrah
2003
$45.00
15.6%
Complete opacity in the black-purple core, thin but vibrant red magenta rims, nothing really betrays advancing age, clean surface completes the visual package. White grapefruit and rose petals pierce the nose, creating an erectness in the coffee, caramel, butterscotch oak component, the plum, cassis, blueberry scents stout and bountiful, sweet mesquite to barbecue sauce smokiness, traces of alcohol drift through, otherwise it’s an exercise in pungent pleasure. Full-bodied while having shed some weight, slowly taking on a drier and tackier mouth texture. The tannins are meager, acidity adequate, dryness appears to derive from wood tannin by way of burnt buttered toast, butterscotch, roasted coffee and cocoa powder. The sheer sugariness of the plum, blackberry, black cherry, boysenberry fruit impels it through the finish fully, however, fruitiness falls off some. Floral throughout, sweet and sour white grapefruit, lemon, orange citrus smoothes out many potential bumps. For all of its lack of complexity and/or tertiary development, attacks your pleasure nodes full-on. 90 points
Droin, Jean-Paul
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Chardonnay
2000
$19.99
12.5%
Not dull but there is a noticeable translucent layering to the rich golden color, allowing some amber flecks to show, hue steady through the rims and more than enough reflectivity across the surface. The nose yet displays some coconut flake, caramel oak nuances, lime to tangerine citrus, slight crinkly quality to the mineral/stone dust, good posture in the peach, red apple, apricot, fruit without giving up juiciness, mint, lilacs and a deep smokiness extend nostril presence. In the mouth it’s Medium-bodied, the acidity apparent with the first sip, while still spreading broadly and is no way too dry. More honey and a suggestion of piecrust to the tangerine, lime, grapefruit citrus, Very little, if any, sign of premature oxidation, still scraping at your teeth enamel and fashioning a vibrant finish. The apricot, pear, apple, melon fruit both firm and juicy. Can’t honestly call it either youthful nor undeveloped, leaves you with the sense that this is it, which ain’t bad at all. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in November 2010
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$45.00
14.2%
Kind of blackish, but not brownish, hue to the core, retains a fair degree of clarity without any visible sediment, there’s an orange luminescence infusing the scarlet to crimson rims, fine surface shine. Floral scrub and meadowy grasses, sour orange and lemon zest, taut red cherry, red currant, red berry fruit comes across as a bit muted, cedar, dried leather, not spreading that broadly but drives into your nostrils real hard, not showing any signs of dropping off. Medium-bodied, sleek and structured like a hungry jaguar, lots of power but it’s only gonna move to make the kill, no muscle stretching. Huge sour wave of raspberry, red cherry, rhubarb, pomegranate, unexpectedly the acidity is light years ahead of the tannin in terms of directing the show. Cedar, leather, minerals and poor brown dirt, just not doing too much right now to display its utmost best. Grapes sourced from the Morisoli Vineyard and Herb Lamb Vineyard. 88 points
Pfeffingen, Weingut
Pfalz, Germany
Ungsteiner
Herrenberg
Spätlese AP #6
Scheurebe
2003
$23.99
11.6%
Bright, glowing golden color with a green tinge, its depth doesn’t negatively impact the relative clarity, very nice sparkle across the surface too. The nose explodes in yo face with guava, kumquat, pineapple, papaya, nectarine, peach fruit reduction as well as cinnamon, brown sugar, molasses, not to ignore the pink grapefruit, lime, tangerine citrus juice, floral dew, hint towards stone and slate but, man, this is all about fruit and citrus to the point of blindly being considered a dessert wine. In the mouth it is medium-bodied with much of the same story, if any grape can succeed in 2003 Europe it might well be Scheurebe, the dried fruit to poached concentration in the apricot, peach, honeydew melon, pineapple, mango, guava fruit heavily layers itself on your tongue with a pile-on from the pink grapefruit, lime, tangelo citrus. Brown sugar, maple syrup, lilacs and violets, caramel make this one sweet son of a bitch. To its credit, the acidity has no bullets in its chamber but keeps firing in hope. Creamy vanilla to whipped cream flavors too. The resonance of the flavors is undeniable, its ability to draw itself into a focused presentation is questionable. Needs super-hot Thai food or dessert to mask its flaws. 88 points
Green Point
Victoria, Australia
Yarra Valley
Reserve
Shiraz
2002
$26.99
13.5%
Small opaque black purple core, moves briefly through dull purple towards brick red with a burnt orange tinge, no real filminess nor sediment of note. Grapey nose with an overripe, but not sweet, character, tomato leading into plum/prune, blackberry, boysenberry scents, toasty oak, vanilla extract, coconut flakes, toffee, coffee ice cream, nothing here even vaguely suggesting tertiary development. Medium-bodied, full bottom without a lot of mouth perfume, the acidity brings a measure of refreshing cadence to it, conversely the oaky vanilla, chocolate, caramel coated popcorn bring it back towards an expected norm. Blackberry, blueberry, black cherry, black raspberry fruit with a dash of mint and eucalyptus. Refrains from getting so sweet as to appear confectionary. Loses flavor intensity through the finish which allows the alcohol to show, even at the relatively low percentage it states. Nice enough but, at this middle-aged state, makes you wonder where it was intended to go over time. 87 points
Craneford
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Grenache
2002
$23.99
15.0%
Orange-red tainted purple core, murky with density, more orange rust, fresh blood accents at the rims, not fresh but still pretty clear. Molten chocolate, caramel drip over the candied cherry, raspberry, strawberry scents, orange juice and a breeze of eucalyptus, mildly earthy, the biggest negative might be the alcohol showing its slip, flower, the more it sits in the glass the more it smells of prunes and stewed tomatoes. Full-bodied, soft but not necessarily smooth, its gritty texture gently scrapes across the tongue as it moves forward. The iron and tomato persist, however, you lay the molasses, maple syrup and butterscotch on top of the candied raspberry, strawberry, cherry, watermelon fruit and it’s hard to notice the flaws. Menthol, chocolate, rose petals and candied orange peels have their say. Average acidity, the tannin seems more woody than natural. Displays a good deal of tenacity through the finish, sweetness never relents. Mindlessly enjoyable, enjoyable nonetheless. (Screwcap) 88 points
Bowen Estate
South Australia, Australia
Coonawarra
Shiraz
2001
$19.99
13.5%
Dark purple core with a red rust to brick red edge, lightens itself a bright crimson at the rims, showing a lot of fine sediment, even the first few glasses. Tightly woven nose that truncates the caramel, butterscotch in favor of minerals, pressed dried flowers, lemon and almost lime citrus, succinct red cherry, red currant, boysenberry fruit scents, it is not that it lacks in length, more a question of it saying what it has to say swiftly. Medium-bodied, savory salt, stone, grass driven mouth entry, metallic earth, The white grapefruit orange zest brings out more animal fur and tanned leather. The red currant, cranberry, red cherry fruit has shed some oomph, however, pierces full to the end. Here in the mouth the thing is that it’s pared down to a more rustic core and, umm, comes close to a Rhônish character. The oak is tame and acidity active. Leaves you without descriptors but, at the same time, pleased to have consumed it. 88 points
Beaurénard, Domaine de
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
2000
$30.99
14.5%
Slight film to the flat purple core, immediately starts moving into orange rust, brick red, territory, more dilute around the far rims, looking like it has some age on it. Wet wool, animal fur and damp cellar earth going on in the nose, dried, shriveled orange peels, lilac dust, prune, date, black raisin with cinnamon, nutmeg, orange blossom, iodine blood, displays a heavy lift, not that nimble, however, plenty of follow-through. Full-bodied, leaden and slow moving, has a surprising tannic punch, woolly raspberry, strawberry, blackberry, red cherry fruit sweet but the texture is rough, sweet candied orange juice with cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, black olives, drying grass, earth, the caramel and cocoa don’t quite sweeten nor soften things as it should. More metallic, mineral chunk laden finish. Not clumsy but clunky and leaves you with the impression it can improve without ever becoming a graceful swan. 70% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 8% Cinsault, 2% Vaccarese. 87 points
Selbach-Oster, Weingut
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Zeltinger
Schlossberg
Spätlese AP #10
Riesling
1999
$18.99
8.5%
Slightly aging and deepening golden color, not near to amber or orange, a lot of hue loss around the rims, surface luster average. The nose leans on the sweet orange, tangerine, lime citrus for effect, powdered sugar, honey, lilacs ably support, the pineapple, nectarine, green apple, mango fruit scents succinct and perhaps stunted by the deep lactose notes, the rubber accents are mild. Medium-bodied, the acidity is soft and flat-footed, this said, the flavors still start off a touch watery and lacking in explosiveness. On the whole it can be considered sweet, the cane sugar, molasses, honey do most of the work here. The tangerine, orange citrus has a concentrated feel, as if shriveling. The milkiness there but woven better into the whole. More streamwater to washed pebbles than deeper stoniness or minerality. Pushes credibly through the finish. Basically, it is competent but thoroughly unexciting. 87 points
Pepe, Azienda Agricola Emidio
Abruzzi, Italy
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Montepulciano
1975
$30.00
13.5%
Paling core, no purple, just red rust and dusty brick red, the rims metallic orange to yellow hued, the liquid is crystal clear even with the serious big chunks of sediment to be found. Fennel, marjoram, sage in the nose, dried orange peel, dried cherries and apricots, cinnamon stick, sticky fresh bee honey, witch hazel, rubbing alcohol, tomatoes, incredible pungency with but a few general elements, fills it up like nobody’s business. Full-bodied, soft and a touch grainy, the tannins dusty and there’s no lack of chunky sediment as well as silt. Sweet cherry, plum, blackberry fruit with a deep tangy edge as well, metallic with iodine, tar and very dried and shriveled lemon to orange peel. The herbs and stone there, maybe more pickle and jalapeño than tomato. Honey, lemongrass, iron flecks. What is the most fun here is that it’s just so fun without having any specific attribute shining like a light. Give me more. Now. 93 points
Caton, Ty
Sonoma Valley, California
Caton Vineyard
Syrah
2004
$31.99
14.8%
Youthfully fresh purple core retains a measure of transparency, red clay influence, the rims brick red to scarlet but not as a sign of age, not a blemish in sight. At first coconut custard, butterscotch and caramel dominate the nose, as it opens these recede in favor of beef blood, mixed stone, grapefruit pith and merde, minimal herbaceousness, has some red fruits but crosses over to blackberry, black cherry, black currant scent territory, spoon of olive paste, remains majority primary. Medium-bodied, its fullness is never questionable, yet, it is light of touch and brings a hard candy sweetness to the raspberry, blueberry, blackberry fruit, piles on molasses, honey, butterscotch and spiced orange peel. The acidity throws a few nice jabs, tannins muted. Floral side pairs with the white grapefruit, orange, brings the latter a zest. Mineral, stone component has a dusty quality to it, coats the oaky aspect. Fluffy herbal quality, tea leaves and sweet herbs. Adding on some aging nuances, still the joy of the fruit the centerpiece. 90 points
Lafouge, Jean et Gilles
Burgundy, France
Auxey-Duresses
Les Hautés
Chardonnay
2002
$19.99
13.0%
There’s a deepening to the base gold color which betrays some age but nothing that would have you guess it is in its eighth year, neither especially transparent nor translucent, holds on well through the rims. The nose remains briskly paced and quite able to penetrate deeply, the caramel and butterscotch element run down from behind by charging sour lemon/lime citrus, minerals and a smattering of chalk dust, some freshness lost in the peach, pear, apple fruit but not staying power, they powdered violets and lilacs swirl in the nostrils, dry yet pretty. Medium-bodied, sour attack fueled by the acidity and dill and pickle notes in the oak, kind of throws you off at first but it certainly rights the ship and sails into more butterscotch, fried butter oak as well as tangerine, lime citrus, sauna smoke and a iron, rust metallic edge. The pineapple, nectarine, apricot, green apple fruit displays spunk and a willingness to seek the spotlight. The florality stronger here, while woven into the whole more and less a separate element. While far from perfect, shows pedigree and the kind of QPR you just don’t find no more. 89 points
Togni, Philip
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$80.00
The deep purple core is pretty much opaque, the blood red, crimson rims not much lighter, no sign of sediment nor of any age. The nose has both weight and breadth, hits you like an angry heavyweight fighter, you take a pummeling but get meager scents at best, semi-sour cherry, red currant, raspberry fruit scents, dried orange peels, floral while at the same time evocative of dried mud, mountain grasses, stone shards, lasts based on sheer tenacity. In the mouth it’s tight and, arguably, pretty much closed for business. Burly tannins, however, it’s the acidity that leaves you bruised. Orange to grapefruit citrus, minerals and stones, brown earth, cedar slivers, pinch of eucalyptus too. The black cherry, currant, plum, blackberry fruit stern, lasts fully to the end but not out to make you enjoy it. If you close your eyes and imagine, there’s a thin coating of cocoa and powdered milk chocolate. Smattering of bell pepper and mown green grass. Basically, you need to wait before opening this bottle or, likely, decant for 3-4 hours. Still, this is what quality Napa Cab has to offer. 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc. 90 points
Kilikanoon
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Watervale Mort’s Block
Riesling
2003
$17.99
12.5%
Basic yellow gold color, nothing unusual about it, hue trails off nearing the rims, the surface neither dull nor shiny, just, umm, the surface. The nose filled first with lemon wax, tangerine zest, develops a credible rubber to petrol dimension, more streamwater to mineral water than minerally, kind of flat green apple, pear, papaya, nectarine scents, you just expect more penetration, some honey swipes help it cling. Medium-bodied, uses all of its weight to last fully through the finish. The acidity digs deep, to the point where it’s burrowing more than dancing. The rubber accents front-loaded which creates growing space for the sparkly lemon, lime, mandarin orange citrus. The metallic component too displays added get up and go. Lean, angular character to the pear, apricot, green apple, pineapple fruit, still, pushes to the end with no diminishing from the initial starting point. Pleasing salty, saline quality. Certainly holding on well, not sure if meaningful development is in the cards. (Screwcap: Stelvin) 88 points
Prum, Weingut Joh. Jos.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Wehlener
Sonnenuhr
Auslese AP #21
Riesling
1993
$32.99
7.5%
Substantial green tinge to the bright golden core, has empty rims but deeply layered into the glass with an immaculately reflective surface. The petrol has developed in the nose, has a larger lactose element than preferred, alert kumquat, pineapple, passion fruit, green apple, apricot scents, highly juicy tangerine, pink grapefruit, lime citrus, the stone to streamwater elements average, this balanced out by a wide floral lift, has reached the point where the parts are well-knit together. Full-bodied, lots of weight from the attack through mid-palate, then quietly trails off through the finish. Energetic lemon/lime to tangerine citrus, equally sweet and sour. Tons of pineapple, green apple, guava, nectarine, peach, pear fruit. The petrol here close to lapped by the lactose. The acidity is kind of lackluster, however, with a good chill shows much better. More stone, pebbles, chalk than minerality. Not the greatest vintage perhaps, but just about in the perfect drinking window. 91 points
Eddy, Tom
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1995
$164.99
13.9%
Burnt red, crimson hues a strong influence to the otherwise purple core, radiant orange-red rims, still possessed with great youthful glow, not much sediment being thrown. Big, stout nose of bell pepper, meadow grass, hay, molasses, freshly tilled earth, initially bound up currant, blackberry, Italian plum fruit scents, they do open with time, wet cedar, fried orange peel, damp leather, every single element lively and full of giddyap. Full-bodied, densely layered on the palate, quite tannic and acidic, yet, in no way to the detriment of overall flow. Mineral jag, super-sour bite to the white grapefruit, orange citrus. Keeps its rugged profile as it brings out bell pepper, grass, peas, lemongrass, stone shards, cedar and sandalwood. The fruit is tart and devoid of fat, the cranberry, pomegranate, red cherry, raspberry flavors last well to the very end. While quite tasty today, plenty of years ahead. 1.5 liter bottle. 92 points
López de Heredia, Bodegas R.
Rioja, Spain
Viña Gravonia
Viura
1994
$25.99
12.0%
Vibrant luminescence to the yellow color, super sparkly, precipitous dimming at the rims, there close to completely transparent and hueless, sleek surface. There’s a milky, lactose stripe to the nose, witch hazel, minerally, the white grapefruit, lemon, tangerine provides a short bridge to the pineapple, papaya, persimmon fruit scents, sprig of mint, the herbaceous dimension adds to the lift, the florality has a rougher edge to it, as if not fully developed, thus starts to close in on itself before fully dissolving. Medium-bodied, extremely dry and acidic, like someone lasered your mouth during the entry. Opens into mint, herbs, orange blossom, lemongrass, wildflowers, the milkiness beaten way back by the acidity. The pineapple, papaya, nectarine, apricot fruit has thrust, could stand to trade some off for deeper tertiary development. Interesting now, more interesting to see where the future takes it. 90% Viura, 10% Malvasia. 89 points
Valentini, Azienda Agricola
Abruzzi, Italy
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Cerasuolo
Montepulciano
2000
$49.99
14.5%
Still some remnant of pink to it, right now a whole of orange-brown going on, while transparent has a filminess, there’s an appreciable fade towards the rims, almost looks like a glass of sherry. Poached to fruit paste peach, pear, apricot scents expand in your nostrils, ginger powder, lemon peel to mandarin orange, rosewater, dried grasses and hay, glazed raw pie dough, full while releasing weight as it progresses. Full-bodied, fills your mouth top to bottom, pine and menthol, dried garden herbs, cold basement aged oranges and lemons. Comes across as maderized in part, dough and yeast with dried honey accents. The apricot, nectarine, peach, pineapple fruit has zip, lasts to fashion a broad finish. The ginger, clove spice comes with a terse salty touch. Stays after you like there’s a warrant on your head. Now’s the time to drink up, no further sense in waiting. 91 points
Cerbaiola (Giulio Salvioni), Azienda Agricola
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
1999
$119.99
13.5%
Very deep purple core, spotless and transparent even while nicely hued, brings thick rims of vibrant crimson to zinc orange, fairly youthful appearance. Rose, violets, sandalwood, incense, black licorice, curiously ripe and full plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit scents, orange juice, touch of fresh leather, oak wood and vanilla fudge, gains a lot of momentum immediately and coasts off said momentum thereafter, pinch of greenness before it dissolves. Full-bodied, broad attack with chocolate, vanilla, caramel oak notes which meld into cherry, blackberry syrup, some blueberry and raspberry too. Undiluted pine, eucalyptus, cedar, incense, lemon to orange peel, then sage to marjoram spices. Very intriguing throughout, not sure how to really assess it as a whole. 88 points
Cerbaiona, Azienda Agricola
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
1999
$115.99
14.0%
The core is a solid mix of black-purple and brick red, very subtle and well-integrated move outwards towards scarlet first then orange and yellow hues. Credible fullness in the nose, licorice, concentrated cherry, blackberry scents, floral dew, orange slices, moss and ground cover, cedar, at times density gets the best of the scents, generally soft texture helps it hold on. Full-bodied, equally soft and soaks in well before the mid-palate. The cherry, plum, blackberry fruit has an incipient dried fruit character, rolls through to the end without a hitch. Zesty orange, lemon citrus, thyme and cedar, the florality comes and goes. The tannin mostly tamed, the acidity brings more game, anchors itself in the palate. Caramel, pine, menthol elevates strongly at the end. Activity and general swirling effects hold your attention, extends its presence. 89 points
Voerzio, Roberto
Piedmont, Italy
Langhe
Vignaserra
Blend
1998
$47.99
13.5%
Purple mostly turned to black, the core more so dark crimson red, the rims a mix of older orange to red brick, clean surface. Pleasingly evocative nose of licorice, lilacs, fresh orange peel, slow pungent lift to the cherry, cranberry, raspberry scents, alas starts to fold in on itself after some time, overall not a lot of staying power. Medium-bodied, slimmed down with a taut acidic, tannic superstructure, fast pacing from start to finish. Pine, rose, lilacs, anise and orange zest bloom first, then develops a deeper white grapefruit elements, this fits the firmer feel. Ripe, yet close to savory, cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, really gets you physically licking your lips. Tea leaf, tree leaf, bark, cedar begin to display themselves towards the finish, asserting more Cabernet presence. The pine and licorice most powerful at the end. Has some attitude about it, will cut you, as if it was in your best interest. Roughly 80% Nebbiolo, 10% Barbera, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 90 points
Stephan, Domaine Jean-Michel
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$39.99
12.5%
On the whole clear, touch gauzy, the purple diminished in the core in favor of light crimson red shades, the bricking around the rims slight as, overall, the color is fading, average plus reflectivity. The nose brings serious funk after popping the cork, merde, iodine, band-aid, damp black earth, where’s the worms sort of thing, the generally lower herbaceousness allows the red cherry, red currant scents to develop earlier, offers more white grapefruit than olives or meat, the floral dimension direct but not lean nor meager. Light to medium-bodied, conversely to the nose the candied sweetness of the cherry, raspberry, borderline strawberry, fruit hits you first, even sweetening the tangy white grapefruit, lemon citrus. The acidity has wiry muscularity and likes to show off some. Snap peas, green pepper, freshly fallen tree leaves give it depth. Earthier here, in the manner of damp forest floor. Cerebrally styled, gently sauvage. 90 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
1999
$49.99
14.5%
There’s an aged look to the purple core, lots of a reddish dirt tinge in it, turns to a cleaner red-magenta, crimson at the rims, adequate surface shine, not as saturated as in its youth but not looking too much like an “old” wine. The nose takes a little while to unwind, you get a burst of merde before milk chocolate, candied cherry to raspberry scents, the orange/lemon citrus comes off as dried, not especially grassy, on the whole yet to be in an awkward, mid-evolution state. Medium-bodied, still has a firm tannic spine and supporting acidity, sufficient to focus the raspberry, cherry, blackberry, to a lesser extent strawberry, fruit, this aspect not fading. Milk chocolate and generalized buttered toast, the oak is receding into the background. Meadowy florality, quintessential garrigues, fill the mid-palate. Cleaner here in the mouth without the merde or earth, at most a dusty stoniness. Gives compact pleasure now, likely needs a few more years. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah. 90 points
Sine Qua Non
Regional Blend, California
California
istartedtomakealabelwhensuddenlyirememberedthatijustabsolutelyhatelabels
Syrah
2007
$135.00
15.3%
Trim, unblemished pure purple core, remains dark through to thin red magenta to crimson hues, attractive youthful saturation. Blunt nose of blackberry, black cherry, blueberry, boysenberry fruit, coffee candy, butterscotch, fried vanilla bean, flan, accents of orange blossom and lilacs, as it opens shows good purity and doesn’t force itself on you. Full-bodied, smoothly moves forward, even as it slowly starts to grip the tongue by the back palate. The orange, lemon citrus not quite sour but has bite. The chocolate, vanilla, caramel remains on the whole understated, yet, ever present. Round, if at times, grainy texture as the black cherry, blackberry, blueberry fruit unfolds. Leaves most of its power latent at the moment. 89% Syrah, 7% Grenache, 4% Viognier. 92 points
Sine Qua Non
Santa Rita Hills, California
Eleven Confessions Vineyard
The 17th Nail In My Cranium
Syrah
2005
$200.00
15.8%
Clean black and brick red tinged, vaguely purple, core, the brick red dominates the orange rust along the rims, no sign of sediment anywhere in the liquid. Tightly woven nose featuring smoke/toast, vanilla bean, fried butter, coffee, segues into a dense floral lift, brings a light touch of lemon peel, the plum, black cherry, boysenberry scents rise but do not open much, ends with spreading bitter dark chocolate scents. Medium-bodied, has strong acidity, enough so to compete with the coffee, dark chocolate, toffee as well as underscore the white grapefruit and lemon citrus. The floral side struggles a little to show. Plenty of zing to the plum, currant, boysenberry fruit. In the back palate develops a rough, sandpapery texture, shortens things a touch. However, its weight last fully to the end. 97% Syrah, 3% Viognier. 88 points
Burge, Grant
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Meshach
Shiraz
1999
13.9%
Blackish-orange hued core, lots of fine sediment floating throughout, more of an orange rust rim with red flecks, good brightness in spite of the sediment. Eucalyptus and milk chocolate, ginger root and spiced oranges, lemon honey and caramel, the oak very well knit into the sour cherry, raspberry, cranberry scents, lowers into an earthy scrub element, steady presence. Medium-bodied, tannins remain strong but pulverized a good bit, witness the sediment. Hard candy character to the red cherry, cranberry, raspberry fruit, yet, has that sour edge, particularly as the white grapefruit, orange citrus comes through. The latter reminds you that there’s plenty of acidity too. Herbal, twiggy with tea leaf and persimmon notes. Showing a good deal of energy, appears to be in a solid, broad drinking plateau. 90 points
Cuilleron, Yves
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Bassenon
Syrah
1999
$44.99
12.5%
Dusky crimson red to blackish purple core, strong bricking through the rims, deeply hued still, touch of ruby around the outermost edge. Light, streamlined nose of dried meadow grasses, olive pits, animal hide, mineral chunks and sour oranges, almost brings some bell pepper, mix of red fruits as if blended together, ends with a powdery floral lift. Medium-bodied, wickedly aggressive acidity, very high-toned red cherry, blackberry, pomegranate, cranberry fruit. Repeats the nose closely by offering green olives, pork rinds, animal hide, orange peel then black earth and wet minerals. For all of its linearity develops some lift. Leaves a very meaty, metallic residue in the mouth. 91 points
Scholium Project, The
Napa Valley, California
Carneros
Guman Vineyard
The Sylphs
Chardonnay
2006
15.1%
Pretty full yellow color, semi-dull core, fades out towards the rims, bit of cloudiness. Smoky nose with a great deal of toastiness, buttered toast and butterscotch knitting into the whole, dried garden herbs, more minerally as it opens, ripeness lingers in the peach, apricot, pear fruit scents, orange marmalade and fried lemon peel, curiously straightforward. Medium-bodied, nicely sharp profile with a creamy underpinning. Lots of tangerine, lemon, lime citrus with tang and yet a sorbet touch. The peach, apricot, nectarine, pineapple pierces the palate, ripe even with a sharply edged character. The oak is prominent but, again, gets masked in large part by the smoky minerality. Grass, sage, thyme, more mixed herbs. Loses some weight at the end but keeps aggressive throughout. 89 points
St. Christina, Weinkellerai
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen
Auslese AP #62
Riesling
2006
$20.99
8.5%
Age has already deepened the golden hue into an array oranges and ambers, neither flat nor especially shiny, fills the glass close to the entire rims, somewhat dull surface. Big, boisterous, sometimes sloppy, nose of lactose, pear, apricot, yellow apple, green melon fruit, bouncy rubber accents, fresh orange and lemon juice, maybe a slouch towards stone and stream water but really this is just reducing into a more sophisticated fruit cocktail of aromas. Full-bodied, the acidity got blindfolded and stuffed in some mook’s trunk, barely there to elicit a muffled protest against the milkiness, rubber, pulpy orange juice, honey and molasses flavorings. The apricot, peach, pear, guava flavors have a poached unto dried fruit concentration aspect. Anchors itself on your tongue more than sinks in. Coconut custard pie. At the finish it comes across more as soft apple cider than anything else. Still, it is mindlessly chuggable. 84 points
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
La Chapelle de Lafon-Rochet
Blend
1996
$29.99
12.5%
Crystal clear red-ruby to purple core, there’s moderate bricking around the rims but the clarity and surface brilliance keeps it more in garnet, scarlet territory. Palpable tobacco wrapper, bell pepper, peppercorn elements in the nose, tight core of candied cherry, raspberry fruit, swipe of orange to white grapefruit pith, light brush of merde mixed into the earthiness, the meadow wildflowers have some pungency, relaxed in its integration. Medium-bodied, fair replica of the nose, adding in a healthy dose of tannin. But not enough to dampen enjoyment, the red currant, red cherry, raspberry fruit has the perfume to at a minimum get past the mid-palate. The white grapefruit, lemon citrus boosted here, brings with it more licorice, menthol and flowers. The bell pepper drops off, blends into the leather, earth, clay. Does not possess the complexity of a superlative aged wine, however, as done more than just held on. Wouldn’t want to push it more than 2-3 years from now. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot. Second label of Château Lafon-Rochet. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in October 2010
McPrice Myers Wine Company
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Beautiful Earth
Blend
2005
$28.00
15.4%
The utter cleanliness of the liquid stops the rich purple core from achieving full opacity, the rims transparent and of vibrant crimson, red rust hue, sparkling surface. Remains quite youthful in the nose, featuring mint, eucalyptus and a bracing blow of alcohol, settles into itself with plum, blackberry, blueberry fruit scents as well as bodacious buttered toast, butterscotch, caramel, maple syrup notes, a true nostril filler. Full-bodied, has sufficient firmness to buoy the juiciness to jamminess of the blueberry, boysenberry, blackberry fruit flavors, all dark. The sweetness of the fruit is such that it dampens the toastiness of the oak, leaving mostly caramel, molasses and maple syrup behind. There’s a kind of pulled pork, barbecue sauce smokiness to it, orange reduction. The tannin has diminished over a few short years, what grit there is feels like wood tannin. Basically, it’s an intelligently crafted fruit bomb at this stage. 84% Syrah, 8% Grenache, 8% Mourvèdre. 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2004
$42.00
16.2%
Clean, transparent purple core with a growing red-ruby influence, the rims remain a youthful ruby to red-magenta with only a mere hint of bricking, reflective surface. Direct and fairly succinct nose of raspberry, blackberry, strawberry fruit with a veneer of liqueur, lemon wedge and pine cone lose sharper contour via the diminishing, yet noticeable, vanilla and caramel elements, has nice lift into a more airy perfume, alas, this also nudges the alcohol closer to center stage. Medium-bodied, has shed a fair amount of weight while, at the same time, keeping most of the sweetness of the raspberry, blueberry, blackberry fruit. Any dryness appears to come from either the loss of fruit or the remaining wood tannin. That said, not especially oaky and, here, there’s added clarity to the orange citrus peel, eucalyptus and pine segments. Molasses and caramelized brown sugar help extend the overall flavors towards the finish. Aeration hinders more than helps, first few glasses the best. Close to end of its best drinking window, pop and chug heartily. 88 points
Eguren, Dominio de
Toro, Spain
Numanthia
Tempranillo
1999
$34.99
14.5%
The dusky purple core just achieves opacity, segues easily to clean, richly saturated garnet to dried blood red, reflective surface sheen. Floral musk, milk chocolate, toffee, butterscotch, caramel popcorn and an orange reduction burst comes forward in the nose, the oak met head-to-head by extracted plum, prune, fig, blackberry scents, curiously for all of its initial bluster only has average thrust and staying power. Full-bodied, dry and tacky mouth feel in spite of the clearly buoyed fruit. This fruit being blueberry, boysenberry, blackberry with certain plumminess as well. The oak has a drying effect and leaves more powdery residue on the tongue than contribute buttered toast, toffee or vanilla flavors. There’s a forest to meadow herbal quality, not greenness per se, and not focused into anything like pine, menthol, mint or the like. Crest of orange zest in the middle. Needs to hold it together better through the finish to really make a positive impression. 87 points
Luca
Mendoza, Argentina
Altos de Mendoza
Malbec
1999
$33.99
13.6%
Purple to lively garnet hued core, completely spotless with well-saturated red magenta, looks like it just came out of the fermentation tank, sleek surface. Ripe, sugary nose with a little peanut shells, jammy raspberry, blackberry, blueberry scents, layers itself jammily into the nostrils, sweet, pulpy orange juice, caramel, floral dew, overall the oak comes across as lowkey, very forward and unevolved, plump enough to still be barely recognizable as Malbec. Full-bodied, smooth with weight, moves forward at a steady gait, in no rush but not slow either. Dried fruit fullness of prune and raisin show some age here, take the lead over the basic blueberry, blackberry, plum, black cherry flavors. Milk chocolate and candied oranges meld together. The tannins have been pulverized into a fine grit, one of the few signs of age. More caramel, butterscotch and toast as oak evidence. Everything here is intelligently put together and has good amplification, you just can’t help but expect a little more advancement and development by now. 88 points
Gaja, Angelo
Tuscany, Italy
Pieve Santa Restituta Promis
Blend
1999
$36.99
13.0%
Unblemished ruby-purple color, even at the cough syrup red doesn’t seem aged at all, some incipient orange at the outermost reaches. Soft cedar and balsam wood fit nicely with the candied red cherry, raspberry scents, potpourri, also candied orange peels, touch of freshly tanned leather, while not complex it fills your nostrils and meets your needs. Medium-bodied, plush and a real mouth coater, the tannins have subsided enough to let the acidity take the driver’s seat and lend freshness, this in the face of robust, red cherry, raspberry, blackberry and even strawberry fruit. Ripe orange, lemon citrus both sweet and sour. More tar, leather, earth, however, nowhere near a major factor. The rose petals deepen the overall musk. The oak brings a low throb of toastiness, nothing to get in the way of the fruit and general flow. Impressive today, leaves you suspecting more upside possible. 90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 90 points
Spinetta, Azienda Agricola La
Piedmont, Italy
Monferrato Rosso
Pin
Blend
1998
$41.99
14.0%
Brick red catching up to purple in the core, just about only red around the wide rims, lots of crud left on the cork bottom but clear in the glass. Thick, layered cherry, black currant, plum fruit, slabs of orange, strong black licorice with pine needle and tea leaves, horse blankets, wet earth but no real minerals, black smoke, sweet fruit overcome by that smokiness, long stayer in the nostrils. Full-bodied, layered to the point of sluggishness, prune and raisin steps up alongside the cherry, currant, plum fruit. While seriously concentrated, the tannic punch keeps the sweetness mostly in the first half. Tea leaves, orange peels, pine, leather, licorice, grill smoke, rose petals. The forward momentum pushes it at an accelerating pace. Anise, ginger spices up the back half, in spite of the fullness you get some alcoholic burn. 50% Nebbiolo, 30% Barbera, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 88 points
Barde-Haut, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1998
$28.99
12.5%
Mostly purple hued core, some ruby and magenta mixed in, the magenta fights through to the rims to blend with crimson and red-ruby, youthfully deep with a pleasing surface shine. Coffee cream, butterscotch, bittersweet chocolate, freshly whipped cream, oak is in da house, bell pepper, green grass, fleshy currant, cherry, plum fruit with a peppery bite, very modern with that earth to reach for street cred. Full-bodied, thickly layered with slabs of currant, cassis, plum, black cherry fruit, the tannins are thick and powdery, turn the chocolate into cocoa and mocha, you get butterscotch and toffee too, vanilla too, the oak is close to over the top with a fluffy mouth feel. The tannins try to stop this but it’s mostly wood tannin and nothing natural of feel. Earth, minerals in a perfunctory manner, passes off to elevating bell pepper. Does not lack true grit but it wins on being user friendly. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 89 points
Rampolla, Castello dei
Tuscany, Italy
Sammarco
Blend
1997
$71.99
13.0%
Lively garnet to purple core, lightly hued, spotless and easy to see through, blood red and red magenta battle for supremacy at the rims, no loss of intensity compared to that lighter core. The nose is somewhat mute and hard to work much out of, balsam wood, mellow incense, saddle soap, wound up cherry, currant to mixed berry scents, orange slices, grassy meadow earth, for the lack of resonance it is fresh and there’s no flaws present. Medium-bodied, the acidity has wiry kick, wraps itself around your tongue and doesn’t let go. A floral breeze gets the red cherry, red currant, Italian plum fruit flavors off the wall and onto the dance floor. The leather, cedar, more tarry earth cruise quietly. Plenty of ripeness in the orange to tangerine citrus. You get a lot of flowers and pine retronasally. Good deal to like here, this said, leaves you unsure if this is what you get or if it remains in a semi-open intermediate stage on the way to greater glory. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese. 89 points
Petrolo
Tuscany, Italy
Torrione
Sangiovese
1997
$34.99
13.5%
Squeaky clean, bright garnet red in color, some violet mixed into the core, more fresh blood red at the rims, fully transparent, high shine to the surface, very impressive visually. Unmistakable hard candy aspect to the red cherry, watermelon, strawberry, raspberry fruit, like a bag full of Jolly Ranchers, fresh rose petals, orange peels, after some time does develop an earthier side with pine and tar coming through, not especially developed but pleasing for how the fruit has not diminished much. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, sweet, yet, with sufficient tannin and acidity to stay erect. Pine, lemon and orange juice, milk chocolate, rose musk create a solid inner mouth perfume, super-sweet cherry, plum, blueberry, raspberry fruit makes you want to pour your glass into a piecrust. So, yes, there’s some honey and cinnamon in there. For the better, the tannin clamps down through the finish and makes it chewier and less simply fruity. 89 points
Laurent, Domaine Dominique
Burgundy, France
Charmes-Chambertin
Pinot Noir
1996
$149.99
13.0%
Clear medicinal red to redder ruby in color, thin orange tint around the outermost rims, looks middle-aged at worst. Sweet smokiness to the somewhat sour cherry, raspberry fruit scents, this met in kind by caramel, toffee nuances, the earthiness is capable of teasing out dried herbs and straw, close to garrigues like florality, under the evident polish is a more rustic wine trying to get out. Full-bodied, that mesquite grill smokiness and more general toastiness makes it clear that the oak wasn’t cheap, built to last this long, if not longer. The cherry, watermelon, raspberry, apricot fruit punches with the vigor of youth. Cedar, ginger, orange blossom and incense keep the flavors coming full steam ahead. Mouth earth and merde at the end. Hard to tell if the tannic grit comes from the natural phenolics or wood. The acidity just below average, does help cleanse the finish. A slutty kind of wine, maybe like some high class heiress slumming it. Has that ever happened before? 89 points
Moor, Domaine Alice et Olivier De
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Rosette
Chardonnay
2006
$30.99
13.0%
Full yellow to brown straw coloration, no loss around the rims, mild luminescence helps fill the glass further. The nose is heavy and leans more to creaminess than leanness, kind of like the ball you squeeze for hand exercise, vanilla ice cream, hard caramel candy, sweet baking cake lift, does stiffen up some via lime and lemon zest, stones more big slab than shards or dust, succinct green apple, pear, apricot fruit scents, even as it dries out in your nostrils its sheer weight keeps it around for awhile. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity brings a gritty, sandpapery quality that tempers much of the sweet juiciness in the lime, tangerine, pink grapefruit citrus. Same can be said for the apple, apricot, peach, pear, green melon fruit, more front-loaded than stretched out. Limestone and chalk, maybe even some quinine notes, yet nothing minerally in a metallic fashion. The flower petals are wet and dewy. The oak has a fine grain to it, flits in and out of the spotlight. Suggests that it might be in a semi-closed down state, shifting into another character. 88 points
Hexamer, Weingut Helmut
Nahe, Germany
Meddersheimer
Rheingrafenberg
Spätlese* AP #6
Riesling
2003
$21.99
7.5%
Light gauze found in the worn gold color, pools into the glass more than display bright shine, mild visual distortion. Minor rubber accents, the nose more built on fresh cream and vanilla fudge, powdered soft drink quality lime, lemon, pink grapefruit citrus scents, big burst of violets and honeysuckle, no real stoniness, thankfully the nectarine, mango, papaya, apricot, peach, kiwi fruit so incredibly friendly that you do swoon a bit. Full-bodied, here it shows very good acidity for the vintage, turns the screws on the super vibrant lime, tangelo, pink grapefruit citrus as well as honeyed peach, apricot, nectarine, kiwi, guava fruit. That said, vanilla and whipped cream omnipresent, maple syrup too. The rubber even tastes sweet. More mineral water than minerality. This pushes dessert wine quality, the acidity the saving grace. If you like explosive flavor over balance and complexity, twist the screw. (Screwcap) 89 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Séchet
Chardonnay
2003
$38.99
13.0%
Pale yellow straw in color, however, full through to the rims, adequate surface shine, nothing looking aged about it. Mint, licorice and lilacs immediately make for a pretty nose, semi-creamy orange to lime citrus accents, the peach and apricot fruit has an edge of kiwi or kumquat to it, light chalk dust or sauna stone smoke, overall soft with good, not great, presence and staying power. Medium-bodied, spicy with ginger and cinnamon notes alongside anise and mint, the slightly below average acidity imbues the orange, lime, lemon citrus with a soft drink sweetness. Juicy pear, peach, yellow apple, apricot fruit with less of a tropical nature. The floral side stays in a demure mode. As it warms, the spice joined by a toasty oak bite, butterscotch too. So-so stoniness. No real sign of premature oxidation, in the end a highly enjoyable glass of Chardonnay and average Chablis. 88 points
Saint Cosme, Château de
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
2001
$48.99
14.5%
Pure ruby-violet core, if anything, more ruby, spotlessly transparent, appears to be beginning to brick at the rims, highly reflective surface. Pungent nose of candied cherry, raspberry, strawberry, apple fruit, more sour mandarin orange, tangerine citrus mist, mix of both milk and dark chocolate, shows a certain wooliness at moments, lowkey earth or flowers, no herbaceousness. Medium-bodied, has grip and drier than expected, albeit it’s not like the tannin or acidity are kicking ass and taking names. The florality takes on gargantuan proportions, supplemented ably by orange marmalade and lemon peels. Damp wool, brown earth, clay and moss/lichens bring some funk to the show. More sheer concentration than juiciness to the raspberry, blackberry, red cherry, watermelon fruit. Focusing on the fruit appears to underscore the presence of the chocolate and cocoa. Kind of showy but never annoyingly so. Lots going on. 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah. 91 points
Quilceda Creek
Regional Blend, Washington
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$74.00
14.9%
Black-purple core, fully opaque, solid crimson to youthful brick red rims, throwing only the finest silt as sediment. Licorice, cocoa, lightly roasted coffee beans and flowers make for an engaging, if innocuous, nose, the plum, black cherry, cassis scents push prune as hard as possible without achieving it, dark chocolate and butterscotch, very light orange zest, lays its rep solely on the fruit and oak. Full-bodied, creamy and on the softer side, there’s enough dustiness in the tannins to create a momentary impression of dryness. Peanut brittle, caramel, butterscotch, chocolate loaded on top of sugary, concentrated plum/prune, blackberry, boysenberry fruit, the toastier parts of the oak not in tandem here. The cedar and candied orange peels are sweet too, duh. In spite of its intended smooth texture it doesn’t harmonize that well, gaps in the newly paved road. Hard to imagine this getting any better. 97.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Cabernet Franc. Blended from the Champoux, Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun and Taptiel Vineyards. 87 points
Mauritson
Sonoma County, California
Madrone Spring Vineyard
Rockpile
Petite Sirah
2003
$39.99
15.3%
Deeply saturated purple core which seems completely opaque from a distance while closer in there’s more transparency than expected, from the outer core through to the crimson to red magenta rims, thin touch of pink at the outermost reaches. Some peanut shell to the nose, very minor merde, then saddle soap, leather, scorched kindling wood before eucalyptus, anise and densely layered black currant, black cherry, plum fruit scents, the latter aided by a floral musk and quick burst of orange zest, overall has credible staying power. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, firmly muscular with the right amount of pliancy to let you bite into it fully. The ripeness and vivacity of the plum, cassis, cherry, boysenberry fruit hits you first, followed on by a very fine sandpapery grit, obviously tannic yet equally clear that the full effect of such has been reduced since its youth. Orange citrus, pine sap, the florality less expressive here. Little evidence of any reductive qualities, in turn the presence of oak is minimal, a generalized toast and pinch of vanilla powder. Hard to make an argument for meaningful tertiary development, however, holding on just fine with noticeable depth of fruit and less trying tannic punch. 90 points
Jamek, Weingut Josef
Wachau, Austria
Jochinger
Pichl
Federspiel
Riesling
2002
$28.99
12.0%
Rich golden color which verges on amber, medium grade translucency, good shine to go with the solidity below, strongly hued rims. The nose gets out of the gate very quickly, spreads widely accents of rubber tire, mineral chunks and semi-sour grapefruit to mandarin orange citrus, the pineapple, kumquat, papaya, nectarine, granny smith apple scents explosive, this in the face of a growing milkiness as it warms, like a fist slipping into a boxing glove. In the mouth it is medium-bodied and packed muscularly enough that you really feel it through the attack. Mint, pine and licorice blossom next to the rubber component, the milkiness more spread out, present but not decisive. The grapefruit, orange, tangerine citrus a larger factor, bolstered by the above average acidity. Some softer peach, apricot beside the more keenly edged pineapple, green apple, nectarine, persimmon fruit, the former aided by a deeper floral presence here. The stone and mineral are steady but bit players. In an excellent spot, matured beyond youth yet has energy to spare. Best when more chilled. 92 points
La Louvière, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pessac-Léognan
Blend
1996
$38.99
12.5%
Fully opaque black purple core, good width to the crimson rims, some red-ruby left in there, no sign of any sediment and the bottle shoulder free of sediment as well. The nose throws short, tight jabs of cherry, black currant fruit, tea leaf, pine and vanilla bean, the oak still knitting in and, arguably, more present than any earth or leather accents, lots of weight in your nostrils but starts to close up within first half an hour after opening. Full-bodied and fleshy, the tannins have really softened up to allow the cherry, plum, black currant fruit to stay juicy from start to finish. Orange citrus sweetens the tea leaf aspect, the cedar and vanilla work together with the aforementioned. Glance of minerals, black earth and bell pepper but nothing substantial. Not as obvious as in the nose but does start to close up some prematurely, suggests more future development ahead. The acidity contributes to a cleansing finish. Very solid juice. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in September 2010
Fleur de Jaugue, Château La
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1998
$28.99
13.0%
Little bit of brick red in the purple core, deep hues while on the whole transparent, rims are a darker brick red to crimson with good width. Vanilla powder, cedar, wood shavings, dried orange peels and concentrated and close to candied cherry, raspberry, blackberry comprise most of the nose, dustiness makes the scents lack richness and depth. Medium-bodied, round and supple attack brings the blackberry, raspberry, black cherry flavors to the fore, helped by juicy orange to lemon citrus. Whispers of cedar and lemongrass. Because it remains so dry and tannic the flavors have difficulty getting much past the mid-palate. The citric tang fares best, then the vanilla and cocoa powder, not meaningfully oaky but credible residue. Have to respect the acidic verve, however, a little more flesh on the bones would help. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 87 points
Turley
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Ueberroth Vineyard
Zinfandel
2005
$48.00
16.0%
Clear, however, lots of black influence through the purple core, a dull brick red overcoming ruby around the rims, the latter has good width, overall looks moderately aged. The nose is full, if streamlined down to white grapefruit citrus, milk chocolate, eucalyptus along with sweet, nut not insanely juicy, blackberry, blueberry, black cherry scents, offers caramel and coffee accents, the oak fully woven into the whole, smooth ride throughout. Medium to full-bodied, acidic with a pleasing emphasis on white grapefruit to tangerine citrus. Has crisp oak toast, more coffee and cocoa and hard butterscotch candy than softer alternatives. The blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, cherry flavors supplemented by apricot and apple flavors. Mint, pine, eucalyptus subtly sweeten the pot. Viscerally satisfying, really hitting it right now and completely seductive. 92 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Estate QbA AP #3
Riesling
2002
$17.99
9.5%
Deepening golden color, layered in the glass with no real green or white shades, solid enough rims, nothing especially shiny about the surface. The nose works to achieve a lean, minimalist profile, light rubber accompanies the lemon, lime sour zest as well as the green to red apple, pear, apricot, pineapple, guava scents, not really tropical but has a keen edge, brings some stream water and stones, skirts the creaminess which lurks around the border. Medium-bodied, lays the acidity on you like a blanket and while never heavy doesn’t seem interested in movement per se. The white grapefruit, lemon, lime, orange citrus dry and sticky but has length and then some. Rough, rumbling presentation of the green apple, pear, apricot, melon fruit, not fluid but jams its way forward. No minerality, some stone and pebble, the rubber develops more as it warms. Florality spreads through the finish. Everything here is succinctly stated, no wasted words, Leaves you with the impression that it is not going to develop into something more, at the same time has the energy to kick butt and take names. 89 points
St. Harry’s Chapel
Solano County, California
Syrah
2001
$27.99
14.5%
Matured, slightly hazy dull purple core, really mostly orange rust and red brick, the rims display good clarity and cleanliness. Close to dried fruit concentration in the raspberry, strawberry, pomegranate scents, powerfully floral nose, candied oranges, a touch of milk chocolate, has kept its plumpness in the nostrils and, arguably, not that evolved, a tribute to its rich fruitiness. Medium-bodied, shows surprising acidity which wraps up a lot of the latent sugariness, albeit still really sweet. Smoky, mesquite-like quality to the raspberry, strawberry base with added blackberry, blueberry to darken its complexion. The orange, tangerine, pink grapefruit gains a good head of steam, the florality more dewy and wet than airy. There’s a vague toastiness but it does not seem oaky, maybe a few sour dill notes. No loss of power through the finish, as savory as sweet. This has a great deal of activity. [While labeled as Syrah, genetic fingerprinting has determined that the vineyard is mostly Grenache. Hence, 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah.] 91 points
Pinson, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Clos
Chardonnay
2000
$34.99
13.0%
Deep golden color which shows some age, watery around the rims, the surface somewhat flat. Relaxed white grapefruit to orange citrus in the nose, about equal minerality to baking spices, light piecrust flakes, however, only moderately displaying any signs of premature oxidation, the peach, apricot, pear fruit has kept crispness even as it alternates with a vanilla creaminess, stays firm in the end. Full-bodied, soft and somewhat sweet with honey and molasses touches. “-Ade” feel to the lime, lemon, orange citrus, juicy soft drink. The mineral, chalk dust helps provide character, were the acidity stronger this element would stand out more. More roundness than bite in the apple, pear, peach fruit. Floral, then there’s some salinity at the end which is nice. Not what it could have been, but really not bad. 88 points
Cape d’Estaing
South Australia, Australia
Kangaroo Island
Shiraz
1998
$55.00
14.1%
While the purple core is opaque, it is not impenetrably deep, the rims show a youthfully vivid ruby alongside the scarlet red. The nose has a leanness to it, not reductive but there is a rubber touch to it, then dried potpourri, squeezed orange and white grapefruit peels, massaged by carob, cocoa, chocolate shades, the plum/prune, blackberry, cassis fruit scents make a good initial impression but can’t persist, eucalyptus, sage and cedar fill in a few crevices. Medium-bodied, stays on an even keel from start to finish, appears to depend more on acidity than tannin to give it focus. Some creamy vanilla, burnt buttered toast and wood smoke, still, the oak is not a major factor here. The black currant, boysenberry, red cherry fruit makes most of its splash upfront, feels like it it starting to dry out. The white grapefruit, sour orange citrus has what it takes to get past the finish line. Eucalyptus, pine add something. What this bottle suggests is that the primary for tertiary trade off was maybe not the right one, not bad but much more enjoyment to be derived in its younger days. 88 points
Selbach-Oster
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Zeltinger
Sonnenuhr
Auslese*** AP #13
Riesling
2000
$32.99
8.0%
More amber orange than yellow gold to the liquid, yellows around the rims, neither definitively dull nor shiny. Outlandishly heavy nose, dripping with golden honey, molasses, whipped cream and, of course, dried fruit like pineapple, peach, apricot, nectarine, golden raisin scents, thick wedges of lemon, adds orange marmalade, oily but not that rubbery, garden herbs but no discernible grass or earth elements, instead almost wooly like Chenin Blanc, clings at first but then releases to improve your ability to breathe it in. Full-bodied, down right sticky, benefits from more verve than expected in the acidity. Layer after layer of pineapple, papaya, nectarine, peach, apricot, steeped in fruit cocktail juice. Tangerine, lemon citrus equally concentrated and sweet. Has that whipped cream, vanilla pudding to lactose aspect. Maybe some rubber but not much. Lightly smoky, gains nuance from the herbal qualities. A kaleidoscope of fruit and citrus, hard to imagine it improving beyond its current state. 375 ml bottle. 90 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
1999
$62.99
13.0%
Bright yellow gold color, shine more than compensates for the moderate hue depth, what’s there holds on through the rims nicely. Lemon oil, shale, chalk and white mineral with floral dust, has a pleasant acrid side, displays pineapple, nectarine, peach, apple scents with more punch than breadth, sinewy lift with more oily notes as it warms, good unforced length. Medium-bodied, strong floral dimension which, along with the lemon, lime, grapefruit citrus, makes for a pretty mouth entry but the super-charge in the acidity also evident from the first sip. Great stone, chalk, ash and sand accents with a lean herbal streak, almost like bell pepper. The pear, green apple, peach, apricot fruit on the lighter side while lasting fully through the lipsmacking finish. The salinity does not wash out of the mouth for like forever. Exactly what it should be. 93 points
Dominus
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$120.00
14.1%
Purple still holds sway at the core while crimson moves outward from there to rule the rims, brick red with an orange rust tint, pretty good clarity. The nose is overstuffed, bountiful wildflowers, eucalyptus, fresh leather, olive pits, dried tar balls, meadow grasses, light bell pepper, the Cabernet Franc really helps give it character, as the black cherry, plum, blackberry slowly comes to a boiling point and takes over the whole perfume. Full-bodied, Has kept an erect tannic spine which helps to frame the whole, can’t call it “dry” per se but this wine does not lack for structure. Leather, tar, black earth, pressed flowers, orange peel, it’s surprising how hidden the coffee, vanilla, mocha oak tones are. Brush of prune to the black currant, cherry, plum fruit, sweet, not sugary, perhaps shortens near the finish an inch. Well knit together, surely drinking in its prime window without any indication of falling off soon. Earns the rep. 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. 94 points
Sent to Their Grave in August 2010
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Oberhäuser
Brücke
Spätlese AP #7
Riesling
2003
$37.99
8.5%
Basic golden color, not too advanced, nothing that bespeaks filminess nor clarity, hints at a green tinge but doesn’t deliver, admirably, not much dilution at the rims. The nose lays out resonant sweet lime, tangerine, grapefruit citrus aside a moment of fresh rubber before vanilla pudding, whipped cream, licorice, rose petals give it a dessert wine feel, the peach, apricot, pineapple, green apple, pear fruit has good posture but still can’t but succumb to the underlying sweetness. Full-bodied in a syrupy sense, really not that much downward pressure on the tongue, more that what is there is downright clingy. Cane sugar, molasses, close to caramel splayed over the orange, pink grapefruit, lime citrus, soft drink to confectionary character. Thankfully, this one has some acidity left in the barrel and pulls off a few rounds to diminish the insipidity. Never shakes that strong vanillin aspect, with the moments of caramel or toffee remains firmly in the dessert aisle. This is a wine struggling to be more than it can, very admirable in the attempt. That said, you have to possess a serious sweet tooth to want more than a glass or so. 87 points
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
1999
$24.99
13.0%
Not even bronzed, this fits into the category of “orange wine,” sans the amphorae, remains perfectly clear with only a slight shift to yellow along the rims. Hard to complain that it is oxidized because with this producer you never really know what the desired result was supposed to be, definitely flat and more bready than yeasty, poached apricot, peach, pear, kumquat fruit lacking into sugariness, any florality subsumed by dried honey as well as a streak of herbaceousness, tart orange marmalade, baking spices, it’s not that there is a dearth of meaningful scents, nothing is activating them. Full-bodied, spreads across the tongue well, the acidity still has kick left and spares no effort trying to wake up the whole. Dry and yeasty, lots of unbaked dough surrounding the apricot, yellow apple, peach, pear fruit. Sour orange to white grapefruit pith. Floral but with no lift. Honey and brown sugar notes. Particularly if one is of an intellectual bent, you can’t say there is nothing here to intrigue. That said, it is tired and all it really has to offer is stories of a more vivid, multi-hued youth. Like a cool grandpa. Unspecified percentages of Viognier, Muscat, Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, Marsanne and Roussanne. 85 points
Best’s
Victoria, Australia
Great Western
Concongella Vineyard
F.H.T.
Shiraz
1999
$39.00
14.5%
Clean deep purple core, despite boatload of sediment stuck on the neck and cork, turns slowly to a more crimson, brick red around the rims, very resplendent surface, doesn’t truly look its age in the glass. The nose has a patina of toffee and milk chocolate but that’s it for the oak, attractive mint, licorice and eucalyptus accents, solid orange citrus component, the currant, cherry fruit sticks to the basics and there’s no “piling on,” only curiosity is that it doesn’t betray any strong tertiary notes. Medium-bodied, tight muscles and on the dry side with plenty of tannin still evident. Given the slight puckering of the mouth, expresses a good deal of contoured, ripe cherry, blackberry, black currant fruit with no appreciable loss at the finish. Chocolate, mocha with some vanilla and coffee, here too the oak is a minor component. The orange, grapefruit citrus hits with a flurry of jabs, softens you up for the flowers and eucalyptus, good rise in the mouth. Once more, very fresh and youthful even accounting for the drying influence of the tannin. This is all well and good but you don’t throw something down in the cellar for nine years expecting it to taste the same as when young. At least it’s delicious. 91 points
Jacob, Domaine Robert et Raymond
Burgundy, France
Corton-Charlemagne
Chardonnay
2002
$41.99
13.5%
Lightly bronzed golden color, the surface remains bright and shiny, little dilution at the rims, The nose displays a luxurious pliability, give without seeming soft, the butterscotch to caramel accents are obvious, however, not creamy as there’s a cleansing mineral water aspect underneath, light smokiness countered by flowers and lime zest, lightly poached peach, apricot, pear fruit scents, overall firm rather than penetrating, minimal breadiness or yeastiness. Medium-bodied, has a dry and dusty texture at first before soaking into the palate with rich apricot, peach, yellow apple, pear fruit. The lime, tangerine citrus lends liveliness as well as lift when paired with the floral mist. While no lack of the same caramel to butterscotch oak flavors, they fit the whole naturally. More stone, chalk or streamwater than biting minerality. But that dryness and smooth, even general presentation keeps it flowing as well as constraining any excess sweetness. Has freshness left, in a very good place but not at the end of its best drinking window. More yummy than regal. 92 points
Fontenil, Château
Bordeaux, France
Fronsac
Blend
1998
$18.99
13.0%
Solid purple core with full ruby to more brick red at the rims, doesn’t appear its age, looks like a decently saturated red wine. The nose is somewhat mute, floral, lemony citrus, leather and weaker cherry, red currant, blackberry fruit, after awhile some licorice comes out along with a little barnyard aspect, just boring in the end. Medium-bodied, even lighter at moments, trails off weight-wise at the end. At first presents a dried fruit edge with prune and raisin notes then trails off into more standard cherry, plum, blackberry. That said, the tannins remain dense enough to shorten the fruit’s presence as well as lay some dust on the tongue. Mixed white citrus, pressed flowers and mint, the oak mostly a toasty residue with coconut and vanilla bean flavoring. It’s a decent drop, nearing the back end of its best drinking plateau, only justified complaint would be lack of tertiary development. But what do you want for nineteen bucks? Mostly Merlot, remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. 87 points
Failla-Jordan
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$48.00
13.6%
Mild dusky character to the opaque purple core, thickly layered blood red to red magenta rims, overall looks like an aged wine that looked like an older wine right out of the chute, surface shines nicely, underneath lacks liveliness. Presents a big, billowy nose of beef jerky, cracked pepper, white grapefruit, then a healthy bushel of red cherry, blackberry fruit, the oak brings a sour dill aspect, offers a gentle patina of animal hide as well, steady nostril presence. Full-bodied with a good deal of fat left on the bones, the oak provides an ample cushion of vanilla, butterscotch and molasses and on top lays down a block rocking beat of raspberry, cranberry, red cherry, pomegranate fruit, relative weakness of the acidity and tannin yet allows the fruit to spread as broadly as it likes. Solid dose of white grapefruit, orange citrus, adds to the sour pucker factor. Floral without a noticeable herbal streak, conversely the minerality and iodine elements might enunciate better. But these are mere quibbles as its vivacity wins you over real quick like plus the resonance of its flavors are not negligible given its age. 90 points
Pfeffingen, Weingut
Pfalz, Germany
Ungsteiner
Nussriegel
Spätlese AP #7
Gewürztraminer
2003
$23.99
10.5%
Green tinged worn gold color, clear given its solid density in the glass, not much fade along the rims, just sits impassively in the glass, waiting. The nose could not be larger scale, smoother, rounder nor creamier, it’s like someone stuck an orange creamsicle up your nostril, key lime pie, green melon, apricot, pear, peach compote, vanilla pudding, caramelized brown sugar, just about the only counterpoint is the bitter nuttiness, this is one atom bomb of sugary sweetness. In the mouth it’s full-bodied with a similar profile, very creamy and soft, expansively fills every crevice. Soft drink, confectionary quality to the tangerine, lime, pink grapefruit citrus with a shovel full of vanilla, caramel, toffee and molasses on top. Somewhere underneath all this must be some acidity as it manages to dry up into a recognizable shape by the finish. Layers of peach, honeydew, apricot, mango, pear, red apple fruit, fruit cocktail consistency. The nuttiness again more bitter than anything, kind of underripe. This is definitely the “hedonistic” side of the grape, steamroller of all that is sweet and sticky. 87 points
Lafouge, Jean et Gilles
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Les Meix Chavaux
Chardonnay
2002
$33.99
13.0%
Moderately translucent yellow gold color with a “middle aged” look, solid block in the glass, good surface shine, the rims show average loss of hue. The nose is beginning to betray milky, lactose notes and undesirable breadiness, the sign of that which cannot be named, otherwise acceptable peach, apricot, pear fruit of firm contours, flowers, lemon to lime citrus reduction, no smokiness but there’s a discernible stoniness and maybe even a suggestion of chili pepper, no nuttiness which can be found in some matured Meursault. Medium-bodied, the acidity has charge to it which helps turn the citrus towards lemon and white grapefruit. Again, the chili pepper there next to the stone, chalk notes. The fruit has a tenuous grip, mainly peach, pear, apple and a splash of pineapple. The dryness throughout tends to staunch the flow of any sweeter honeyed notes but, hey, probably reduces the breadiness, doughiness as well which is good if you’re not into pre-mox flavors. Kind of makes you think it’s a Chardonnay from Marlborough. Much better in its youth although not entirely unsatisfactory right now. Makes you wish you started collecting wine at 18, more time to make a few innocent mistakes. 88 points
Dal Forno, Azienda Agricola Romano
Veneto, Italy
Valpolicella Superiore
Blend
1999
$109.99
14.5%
Minimal purple visible, just blackened red to orange brick, the rims have an even more burnt orange hue, moderate opacity throughout, looks its age. Smoky nose, like last night’s camp fire wood, heather and wildflowers, the fruit not the strongest element but what’s there is candied in character, cherry to blackberry, mixed patina of milk and dark chocolates, caramel, the undercurrent of orange citrus equally sour and sweet. Medium-bodied, dry and acidic from the start, prickles the palate. This heightens the woodiness as well as any minerals or earth aspects, though it stops short of turning appreciably grassy. The red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit front-loaded and then truncated, not quite extending through the finish. Blood orange, lemon and then a hint of white grapefruit citrus, a needed element, breathes life into the mid-palate. One might reasonably expect more depth and length from this one. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella. 87 points
Mitchelton
Victoria, Australia
Nagambie Lakes
Print Label
Shiraz
1998
$28.00
14.5%
Blackish-red core, very clear, bright pumpkin orange rims, pretty with a mature, but not old, appearance. Bracingly sweet and sour nose of cranberry, raspberry, red cherry, pomegranate fruit, straw and meadow grasses, orange and grapefruit with a light layer of chocolate, dried garden herbs, not really that uni-dimensional and distinct in ways that are not always obvious but keep you interested. Medium-bodied, has a good sense of itself, how to pace things and distribute its weight. The plum, black currant, black cherry fruit is muscularly dense, tangy sourness throughout and lasts fully to the end. The tart quality of the orange, grapefruit citrus tempers the caramel, butterscotch, vanilla nuances. There’s a gamey, smoked beef jerky quality to it as well, before a welcome grassiness arrives to steady things more. Stony at turns as well, not quite “profound” but a very good example of cooler climate Shiraz that remains within the framework of the expected but, at the same time, shows you that it doesn’t have to be a flabby ooze monster to impress, even from a riper vintage. 89 points
Harlan Estate
Napa Valley, California
The Maiden
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$95.00
14.5%
Black purple turns into a flat crimson, scarlet and bright brick red, well-aged in look but nowhere near being over the hill. Dense cherry, black currant, blackberry fruit of richness and contour, mocha powder, coconut flakes, caramel in good proportion, orange citrus zest adds to lift, cedar appears with some time, again has very good shape even if it sticks to pushing the mainline juice. Medium-bodied, unexpected acidity and then tannin which gets the mouth entry in a military posture, tangy red currant, cranberry, red cherry with a bright orange, grapefruit component. Nice green, earthy edge with leather and cedar. Caramel and butterscotch soften the landing. Has a suave fruitiness and tight finish, good punctuation showing attention to craft. This is in a very good place right now. Contains some small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. Second label of Harlan Estate. 91 points
Fox Creek
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$49.99
14.5%
Dark, if clean, red crimson inflected black-purple core, deep scarlet rims, the absence of ruby suggests aging, however, still looks pretty damn saturated. Heavy and plush nose of cassis, plum, black cherry, prune fruit, eucalyptus, licorice and candied oranges, toffee, milk chocolate, has a floral side but can barely get out of the chair, after a few sniffs becomes redundant. Medium-bodied when you think it should have more body, the acidity cuts away and then there’s just the receding black cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit and orange, lemon fruit pie notes. Chunky, dusty texture which shortens the whole experience. And brings out more herbaceousness than you’d ever expect. The milk chocolate, cocoa, mocha can’t soften nor sweeten things. Mixed white citrus and herbs, cedar, the oak comes out mixed up together, no real distinct flavors. Yeah, you can tell it’s a Cab but it’s more or less characterless. 88 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile
Riesling
1997
$35.00
13.0%
Deepening golden color but not fully mature visually, shiny surface with a noticeable translucent bending of light below, slight diminishment along the rims, solid presence in the glass. The nose remains fresh and fairly primary, wet flower petals, mint, juicy orange and lemon citrus, bowlful of green to red apple, pear, apricot, peach, nectarine fruit, the rubber and stone aspects remain clearly in the background, moderate length, better fullness per se. Full-bodied, layers itself across the tongue, the acidity on the wimpy side, not inactive as much as gets pushed around. Hence, the pineapple, green apple, pear, apricot fruit takes up more space than it should while the white grapefruit, orange citrus sugary more than tangy. Wax and rubber combine with pie crust and honey to round things out. Loaded with flavor yet needs more energy and liveliness to make a more lasting impression. 90 points
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1997
$27.99
13.0%
Light, clean brick red to purple hued core, burnt scarlet to incipient orange at the outer edges, very bright and sparkly given its age. Very smoky and leathery nose, crisp grass and close to bell pepper element, lot of surprising ripeness left in the red cherry, strawberry, raspberry scents, cedar and smoke with a tiny pinch of orange citrus, lifts decisively, minimal trace of sweeter oak. Medium-bodied, dry and still tannic without being insufferably so, allows flow to the red cherry, red currant, blackberry fruit through the finish. The herbaceousness is indeed strong, wood kindling smoke and tar, some leather. Derives a pleasing bite from the orange to white grapefruit citrus, crackles through the mid-palate. Youthful in terms of structure and remainder of fruit, however, leaves you a touch unsure of what upside it is going to have from this point on. It may be at its most harmonious now. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Baumard, Domaine des
Loire, France
Savennières
Chenin Blanc
1996
$14.99
13.5%
The rich golden color has not diminished any of the high sheen to the surface, glistens in the glass, some browning, the rims steady and not dilute. Typical beeswax, honey, lanolin driven nose, orange marmalade, poached peach, pear, apricot scents, gain more depth nearer room temperature, mint and lilacs as well, over time develops both a smokiness and milkiness, creates a nice interplay. Medium-bodied, the acidity still wiry and strong, however, the wine is getting fleshier with time, more breadth and less lean focus. The honey to molasses dapples the apricot, peach, pear, apple, persimmon fruit flavors. More mineral, stone, earthy dust here to dry out the total experience. The orange, lemon citrus sweeter without undue concentration. The waxiness more a knit in part than standout. Florality comes on late and helps get it into the air. Soft, sappy finish, lingers very well. Just about as it should be. 92 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Knights Valley, California
Obsidian
Syrah
2003
$45.00
15.1%
Black-purple takes up like 98.36% of the surface area, razor thin rims of red-ruby to magenta, while there is some surface shine, the obvious opacity does not give you much reason to give it more than a cursory glance. There is a spicy bacon to tanned leather element to the nose, mesquite grill smoke and molasses, even the orange/lemon citrus seems fried, licorice and butterscotch, toffee, focused burst of plum, cassis, blackberry fruit scents complete the offering. Full-bodied but feels like it has lost heft, especially in the middle. The acidity is pretty good, perhaps a contributor to the aforementioned, Coffee, butterscotch, caramel pairs up with the mesquite grilled meats to make a sweet yet also savory mouth entry. The plum, black cherry, currant fruit feels like it has lost juice and hollowed out some. The orange, white grapefruit citrus tries hard to do its part and does activate the mid-palate. The thing is, it just can’t shake this artificial feel, like here’s the powder, just add water and, bam, instant Syrah. Too generic to warrant the price tag. 87 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Grenache
2003
$35.00
15.5%
Opaque black core which only admits of purple further towards the more flat ruby rims, squats in the glass with authority but nothing special to look at. Wet nose of juicy blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, red apple fruit, honey glaze and freshly squeezed orange juice, hard to imagine it being more primary if it just stopped fermenting, maybe some eucalyptus but, truly, there’s nothing else to note. Full-bodied, sloppily juicy in a good-natured drunk fashion, just wants to be everyone’s friend. Caramel, butterscotch, whipped fresh butter amplify the sugariness of the raspberry, red cherry, strawberry fruit, which, uhh, didn’t necessarily need the amplification. Any tannin or acidity was whupped good and head for the hills long ago. The lemon to orange citrus has a soft drink consistency. Floral in a spring blossom way, pregnantly rich but not destined to last. Sweet herbs and black licorice manage to create diversity without creating a sugar overload. The finish is long like a alarm clock which keeps going off because you forgot to turn it off before leaving town for the weekend. 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Cabernet Sauvignon
2003
$65.00
14.8%
Deep purple core, close to opaque, heavily saturated crimson rims, on the dull side but there’s no doubting the richness of the liquid color. Huge, overstuffed nose of plum, black cherry, blueberry, blackberry fruit, jammy and sugary, orange pulp, eucalyptus and mint, milk chocolate, coconut oil, vanilla with nothing which even comes close to expressing mature Cabernet Sauvignon, just gobs of fruit. Full-bodied, thick and gluey in the mouth too, even the tannins seem clumpy. Sweet, just about honeyed cherry, blackberry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit with orange, lemon reduction plopped on top. Caramel, coconut, butterscotch, toffee, mocha, the oak is pure and transparent to the taster. Eucalyptus and pine sneak in there too. Lazy ending, just kind of slouches on the couches. Very little chance that this is gonna emerge the swan. 86 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2003
$49.99
13.0%
Somewhat advanced golden color, however, lacks the concentration of a matured wine, still light translucency there and the rims hold the hue well. The nose is heavy and sluggish, like someone naturally big who was once an athlete and then stopped working out, lemon pie, mint, peach, apricot, pear fruit with more cobbler/pie feel, the doughiness seems more a product of overripeness with poor structure than premature oxidation, not flawed but the flabbiness and lack of any mineral aspect leaves it wanting. Full-bodied, to its credit the acidity really does try to breathe life into the wine but it’s just fleshy and flat to be helped. Peach, apricot, pear, yellow apple fruit as well as orange citrus flavorful, if sluggish. Honey and molasses thicken things further, the mint to lilac accents keep it sweet and friendly, more Chardonnay than Chablis. The oakiness creamy with vanilla, butterscotch, caramel flavors which buttress the honey notes. Hard to dislike it, especially if you put it out of your mind that it is premier cru Chablis. 86 points
Castillo, Casa
Jumilla, Spain
Las Gravas
Blend
2001
$21.99
14.5%
The purple core taking on a black to red cast, not especially vivid if perfectly clean and clear, much more scarlet to burnt sunset orange along the rims, lots of color to go around and not really appearing very aged. Ripe nose of cherry, plum, blackberry fruit, could see it taking on more of a dried fruit feel over time, orange concentrate, floral dew, very pregnant fullness, light swipe of cocoa powder, primary and not seemingly close to maturity. Full-bodied, sappy and overripe, here the prune, raisin comes through alongside the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, shades of mint, licorice, flowers before much stronger milk chocolate and orange juice notes. The tannin a steady anchor, helps staunch excess sweetness. Some hay and straw notes nearer the end. Good stuff, not sure why it hasn’t developed more by now. Hmmm. 50% Monastrell, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 89 points
Zerbina, Fattoria
Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Ravenna Rosso
Marzieno
Blend
2000
$44.99
14.5%
The core is more of a blackish crimson red than purple, the rims brick to blood red with the slightest hint of orange, very vividly hued and clean, looks like an older wine but you suspect it looked this way young too. Nose of candied, liqueur-like cherry, raspberry, blueberry fruit followed on by matted straw, earth, horse hair, dried blood oranges and a slow breeze of wildflowers, never heavy in your nostrils but you feel it there, pleasing mix of sweet and dry elements. Medium-bodied, very similar to the nose, leads with hard candy cherry, raspberry fruit with a floral perfume resting on top. Licorice and orange to lemon citrus keeps it open and approachable. Over time more of the acidic and tannic structure asserts itself, although neither a dominant force, takes on a fluffy tackiness. Which leads into straw, hay, meadow grasses, light leatheriness and parched brown earth. Finishes slightly short, this likely a product of being consumed on its own rather than with food. Built well. 80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 88 points
Mustiguillo, Bodega
Viño de Mesa, Spain
Quincha Corral
Blend
2000
$45.99
14.0%
Bright purple core, squeaky clean with a very dark ruby influence, perfect clarity through the garnet to crimson hued rims, impressively vivid, definitely catches your eye. Initially there’s a real barnyard funk to the nose, all merde and wet animal hide, this normalizes with time into sweet, concentrated bing cherry, plum, blackberry fruit scents, milk chocolate covered oranges, pressed flowers, stays relatively simple with moderate lift, more of a hover, non-flashy fullness. Medium-bodied, sweet and sappy from the front, has the consistency of maple syrup, cherry, plum to prune, blueberry, blackberry fruit slides across your tongue to drip down your throat. Lime and orange citrus here, more of a bite and spritz, blends into the wet flower petal component. Has kept a stripe of caramel and toffee, even some notes of café au lait. The tannin helps to frame the finish, does not dry things out as much as ensure there’s good posture through the end. Satisfying wine that keeps its reach within its grasp. 85% Bobal, 10% Tempranillo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2010
San Gregorio, Feudi di
Campania, Italy
Irpinia
Serpico
Blend
1999
$38.99
13.5%
Densely opaque purple core, leading to broad, saturated rims where the red-ruby is turning to more crimson, brick red, throws a fair bit of chunky sediment. Heavy mocha roast, coffee in addition to tar, horse hide, thick plum to prune, black cherry scents, the oak retains a palpable presence, the more it opens the less individuality you get, more just a big, fruity wine. Full-bodied, the tannins have subsided to the point where it’s equally fruit forward here, plum, black currant, cranberry fruit with white grapefruit and lemon to add some counterweight to the fruit’s sweetness. Oak toast obvious, mocha, cocoa, coffee rind with leather, tar and black earth close to an afterthought. Heavy enough to make an immediate impression, especially if you just like being impressed. 70% Aglianico, 30% Merlot, small amounts of Syrah and Piedrosso. 88 points
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
1998
$28.99
13.0%
Black core, skip over purple to get to hues of crimson, scarlet red, retains credible vibrancy in the rims, looks like a wine in the end of being middle aged. Sweet, dense plum, black cherry, black currant fruit in the nose, renders it less mobile than might be desired, traces of leather, caked brown earth, garrigues, mint and orange pulp, then a brush of milk chocolate, does not lack for resonant scents, only an overarching direction to it all. Full-bodied, still has some tannic grittiness, as well as sediment based chewiness, but its structure is mostly a product of sheer density. Some sourness to the Italian plum, blackberry, cherry, boysenberry fruit, brings out more of the white grapefruit citrus. Flowers and sweet herbs leaden, can’t add spring to its step. All this said, if you are in the mood for a super-sappy wine with some aged qualities, it ain’t bad. But hard to make an argument that it improved since its youth. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder unspecified percentages of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto. 88 points
Cold Heaven Cellars
Santa Barbara County, California
Second Sin
Syrah
2003
$39.99
13.5%
Light violet color with a good deal of ruby influence to it, core just achieves opacity, clean ruby-red rims, no fine sediment but there are plenty of big old chunks settled at the bottom of the glass, nothing about it colorwise suggests advancing age. Fairly high-toned nose, not alcoholic but scrubs the nostrils, wildflowers and orange zest lead into blueberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit, firm ripeness, the floral musk grows, the oak toast stays in a supplementary role, touch of milk chocolate, little tertiary development, minimal stoniness too. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with a decent acidic spine to improve the posture of the plum, blackberry, blueberry fruit which naturally wants to settle into heavy layers on the tongue. Toasty with mixed vanilla and chocolate notes, this milkiness run down by white grapefruit to mandarin orange citrus. There’s a sourness which helps extend the whole but doesn’t necessarily add complexity. Decent finish, with an increase in bell pepper and green grass. Interesting, seeks a more distinct personality than it does not quite achieve. Grapes sourced from Purisima Mountain, Bien Nacido Hillside, Volgelzang Vineyards. 89 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
2002
$44.00
12.5%
Advanced golden yellow color, if not “mature” per se, clear enough with a steady loss of hue towards the rims, nothing especially unusual here. Floral nose with a healthy amount of lemon and lime pulp and peel, washed white stones to chalk, something like pine, the apricot, pear, apple fruit scents erect enough to keep the whole experience fluid, more smokiness yet than breadiness or honey, a good sign when it comes to the issue of premature oxidation. Medium-bodied, flattens out somewhat on the tongue but no denying that the acidity has lots of kick to it. Here there is a yeasty, doughy quality that hasn’t achieved undue sweetness. The pear, yellow apple, melon, apricot fruit at a fine level and pairs up well with the lemon to lime citrus, the latter evenly sweet and sour. Some chalky, flinty notes but nearing the finish, it does sort of deaden on the palate, dries out without the vibrancy of the acidity able to help. Nice, particularly before the finish, I’d still drink up sooner than later. 88 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Ynez Valley, California
Larner Vineyard
Syrah
2002
$26.99
14.9%
Opaque black-purple bruise of a core, deep enough to mask any blemishes or sediment, the rims as ruby as red, youthful yet in overall look. Jammy nose stops short of developing a dried fruit character, drips with plum, blackberry, black cherry, cassis fruit, the concentration makes it hard to get more than mocha bits, eucalyptus and orange reduction out of it, muffled florality, light pepperiness but the fruit overwhelms much else. Full-bodied, leads off with a nice citrus array of orange, white grapefruit and lemon, zesty but sweet underneath. Caramel, softer butterscotch and milk chocolate present, the oak is there but steamrolled along with much else by that cavalcade of plum, cassis, black cherry fruit. Tannin seems more perceptible than acidity, dries in a more dulling than refreshing fashion. The floral dimension can’t gain traction any more here. This is a big, chewy wine that commands your attention while in your mouth, if not always your interest. Fans of primary flavors will appreciate it best. 88 points
Kloster Eberbach, Hessische Staatsweingüter
Rheingau, Germany
Rauenthaler
Baiken
Spätlese AP #46
Riesling
2002
$25.99
9.5%
Rich golden color verges on amber, mild translucency helps hue hold on through the rims, pools solidly rather than have the surface appear separate. Burnt gasoline and tropical pineapple, guava, star fruit, papaya dominate the nose, has a small softening element of milkiness, sweet pink grapefruit juice notes, light mineral water and iron flecks, excellent thickness and staying power, lingers forever. Full-bodied, zesty acidity activates the pink to white grapefruit, tangerine, lime citrus, fairly explosive. The acidity brings out lots of life in the pineapple, nectarine, apricot, green apple fruit. More rubber than acrid gasoline here, contributes to overall roundness. Lactose really comes on through the end. While the flavors last well, the weight goes on and on. Muscular while pliable enough to give when you need, can last and maybe improve for many years. 90 points
Damilano, Azienda Agricola
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Cannubi
Nebbiolo
2000
$59.99
14.0%
Crystal clear medicinal red with a thin orange rust edge of a rim, the hue is aged but it remains sparkly and vibrant in overall appearance. Maraschino cherries, pressed rose petals, orange peel and leather make up most of the nose, has a steady undercurrent of earthiness, plums and raspberries join in as it opens, on the whole clean and not fully expressive, suggesting some miles yet to go to its best. Medium-bodied, tannic and dry from the first sip, the acidity is strong as well, and does help smooth it out some. The red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit savory throughout in spite of the structure, the lemon and orange citrus adds more pucker than tighter bite. The floral side has to stuff to spread wings better with time. Tar and earth there but still needs time itself to unwind. Can give pleasure today but needs food and a serious decanting. 88 points
Fleur de Boüard, La
Bordeaux, France
Lalande de Pomerol
Blend
1998
$19.99
13.0%
Blackish purple core, curiously clear and unblemished, strong brick red to burnt crimson rims, shows age in terms of hue but not throwing much sediment. Vanilla, mocha, cedar, caramel infused nose, the oak obviously going strong, healthy floral dimension, the plum, black currant and cherry scents still have power, blends in some lemon zest and ginger, feels like it is starting to streamline but has a good deal of youth left. Medium-bodied, very fleshy and fruity upon opening than, with time, starts to close down some, the tannins taking charge. Offers orange, lemon and close to white grapefruit zest. Stony with cedar accompaniment but not really leathery nor showing distinct tertiary notes. Tart red cherry, cranberry, raspberry, red currant fruit, lots of pop and sizzle, more dry than sweet, yet no lack of length. Actually somewhat “hearty” and more honest than expected. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Réserve IX Improbable
Grenache
2001
$59.99
14.0%
Flat blackish core without much purple, fades to a dull reddish brick with brown tones, clear and without blemishes, just not visually interesting. Dewy floral nose with orange juice, sweet spices, cocoa powder, caramel and raspberry, strawberry, blackberry fruit scents, fairly youthful and unevolved, thick and close to gluey in your nostrils, longlasting presence. Full-bodied, fat yet with a grainy dryness, like tannic residue, this doesn’t do much to “structure” the wine though. As much sourness as sweetness in the cranberry, rhubarb, red cherry, raspberry fruit, tart orange to lemon pith. Ample serving of coconut, caramel, butterscotch and milk chocolate. Less of the fluffy garrigues and wildflowers. This is a highly pleasurable wine that has of yet not shown any distinct development and likely won’t. Drink and enjoy, no sense in waiting. 88 points
Noon
South Australia, Australia
Langhorne Creek
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$75.00
15.5%
Deep purple bruise colored core, however, up close not as fully opaque as from a distance, the broad rims still show a youthful vigor of ruby-magenta to violet hues, nothing visually suggests a 12 year old wine. The nose, however, lacks the penetrating power of its youth and the alcohol shows through clearly, if you can adjust then there’s a bounty of eucalyptus and a firm core of prune, blackberry, black cherry fruit, blends in dried orange peels, vanilla powder and vague florality. Full-bodied, there’s a great deal of dusty, tacky wood tannin left, nothing that suggests more supple natural tannin. That said, has kept a good deal of the initial sweetness in the blueberry, boysenberry, blackberry fruit, especially during the first half. More life in the orange citrus and the eucalyptus does take off some of the dry edge. Traces of caramel, vanilla fudge, toffee but the oak flavors have diminished, just not the residual textures. Keeps its weight through the finish. No noticeable change after being open an hour or so. Not bad, however, has not changed enough to add new, intriguing dimensions, better right out of the chute. 88 points
Chappellet
Napa Valley, California
Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$75.00
14.5%
Slight blackishness to the core tips the purple over into opacity despite their being nothing really “dense” about it, the clarity evident around the crimson red to ruby hued rims, despite the age evident in the coloration retains a very saturated look. Cedar, mint, vanilla bean, coffee lend diversity to the nose, menthol and orange pith set the stage for the hard candy concentrated cherry, blackberry, plum fruit scents, neither too red nor black and without dried fruit characteristics, there is a palpable herbaceous dimension but it’s been shaved down to the utmost user-friendliness. Medium-bodied, the tannins built to make themselves noticeable more than actually structure, thus there’s a round and semi-plush texture with a mild drying sensation at the end. More plum, black currant and black cherry than any “red” fruit here, however, truth is there’s a case to be made that’s it is starting to fade, Menthol, eucalyptus, orange and lemon zest and cedar maintain a solid presence, not that earthy nor leathery. Good, unforced length at the end. It’s very satisfying as a higher end Napa Cab, however, it lacks the “wow” factor the price warrants. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2010
La Louvière, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pessac-Léognan
Blend
1999
$16.50
13.0%
Dark purple bruise of a core, its inherent cleanliness has it avoiding opacity, the crimson to brick red rims betray its relatively middle age. The nose has a leafy autumnal character to it, bark, dried grass, old cedar, the Italian plum, black cherry, blackberry scents succinct, orange peel but more minerally and stony, the florality breaks a real sweat trying to get off the ground. Medium-bodied, quite firm, shows more bubbliness during first 30 minutes open then starts to close up shop. Nothing lacking in the plum, black currant, cherry fruit, just no extra cushion. The tannin going strong while the acidity has spring in its step, both likely to outlast the fruit. That said, in a nice drinking place now with orange, lemon citrus, pressed flowers, leather, damp minerally field earth, herbaceous cut but no bell pepper. Slugs its way through the finish, displays honesty in its lack of table manners. It absolutely has its rewards and is an enjoyable example of “everyday claret” which was priced appropriately those many years ago. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Leitz, Weingut Josef
Rheingau, Germany
Rüdesheimer
Magdalenenkreuz
Spätlese AP #3
Riesling
2003
$18.99
8.0%
Transparent, pale white-green hay in color, hint of yellow at the core, decent shine, average overall appearance. While the nose displays a noticeable fresh rubber component, it’s mostly about the syrupy tangerine, lime, pink grapefruit citrus as well as concentrated peach, pear, apricot, red apple, cherry fruit, thick floral dew, honey, almost sticky presence in your nostrils. Full-bodied, the acidity tries but gets swept away in a flood of caramelized brown sugar, molasses, honey and almost milk chocolate. Soupy, juicy lime, tangelo, pink grapefruit citrus, all sweet, no sour. Same can be said for the apricot, pear, melon, cherry, peach fruit cocktail. Here there’s even a vanilla creaminess. Had hoped that time would have helped it shed its fat but no such luck. Bought the bottle by mistake, had to at least try. 85 points
Rustenberg
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Simonsberg
John X Merriman
Blend
2005
$30.99
14.5%
Purple to brick red core, somewhat brooding appearance, displays cough syrup red rims with a burnt orange outer edge, very clear, especially further out. Smoky, leathery nose with roasted cherry, plum, red currant fruit alongside tar, black earth, does a good job of hiding the underlying vegetal nature, stays very fruit driven. Full-bodied, dry and tannic with a solid acidic punch as well. Concentrated dried fruit touch to the plum, blackberry, black cherry flavors, fortunately the dryness controls the fruitiness. The leather, tar, earth and minerals hold back from taking a dominant position while maintaining solidity through the finish. Hard to get a full handle on it, not really “aged” per se while possessing a pleasing semi-chewiness and does throw some sediment. Good wine, well constructed but nothing spectacular. 54% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, 1% Shiraz. 88 points
Ojai Vineyard, The
Santa Rita Hills, California
Clos Pepe Vineyard
Pinot Noir
2003
$44.99
14.0%
Dark, yet clear, violet core with some ruby tint, remains mostly youthful at this “middle aged” stage. Black cherry, blackberry, black raspberry fruit impel the nose, with pressed flowers and lemon oil has a palpable fullness without heaviness, somewhat monochrome, best part is the textural push into your nostrils. Medium-bodied, fills the mouth adequately and anchors itself well enough. The cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit too thick to develop meaningful lift, and does slow down the forward progression as well. The orange, white grapefruit, lemon citrus more sweet than sour. The acidity manages some kick but overall no match for the weight of the fruit. Not showing any tertiary signs. Foursquare but definitely fruity and viscerally pleasing. 86 points
Primo Estate
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Joseph Moda Amarone
Blend
2002
$37.99
14.5%
Dusky purple core, opaque with a brick red influence, deeply crimson stained rims, orange and almost yellow at the outer edges, underscores the clarity of the liquid. Molasses, mesquite grill smoke and ginger blossom in the nose, dense plum, cassis, cherry scents, orange peel, sprig of mint, while retrained allows its innate power clear. Full-bodied, while large in scale fairly velvety with good forward momentum. The orange and lemon citrus juice sweet and tangy. Today the mint, pine, pressed flowers most evident, the caramel, molasses more or less knit in. The baking spices evident, dredges up some sandalwood, incense notes too. The super lively plum, currant, black cherry fruit in full control start to finish. Recognizably “export mainstream” Australian in style but not overly spoofed. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot. Made in the style of Italian Amarone, drying the grapes before crushing. 89 points
Knoll, Weingut Emmerich
Wachau, Austria
Dürnsteiner
Ried Schutt
Smaragd
Grüner Veltliner
2001
$34.99
14.0%
Thick, waxy looking liquid of deepened gold to amber hue, showing some age but becomes more transparent towards the plainer straw yellow rims, the surface has moderate luster to add. Needs to warm some to show its best but then the nose yields bountiful white smoke, tart white grapefruit to lemon citrus, pineapple, guava, nectarine, green apple, kumquat scents keep it edgy although the florality is pretty when allowed to speak, the minerally bite grows and grows as it opens. Medium to full-bodied, has the traction and density you expect and want, the acidity is perfectly fine and able yet defers to anchoring rather than lifting. The grapefruit, orange citrus sweeter here while no match for the tang in that pineapple, guava, passion fruit, nectarine, kiwi flavors. The minerality retains that smoky, almost acrid edge while at the same time there’s a suggestion of lactose too. Pressed flowers, pine, a kind of forest breeze follows on after all that, the flavors lose a touch of intensity at the end but the weight keeps plowing along. In a very good place right now. 92 points
Cape d’Estaing
South Australia, Australia
Kangaroo Island
Shiraz
2001
$39.99
14.0%
Densely opaque and pure purple core, scarlet red and orange has replaced the ruby in the rims. Attractive floral lift to the nose, mint, sweet orange peel, milk chocolate, cocoa, sweet yet tangy currant, cherry, boysenberry fruit scents, has unusually firm and contoured shape in the nostrils, offering personality without pressing itself on you. Medium-bodied, the acidity jumps right out front, puts life in the blueberry, boysenberry, raspberry fruit as well as pink grapefruit to tangerine citrus. Mixes in eucalyptus to mint notes, savory herbs, cocoa to mocha accents, shows some developing leather or tar, however, in an embryonic state. Its gritty grip reduced the overall fruitiness level, actually gets your mouth puckering at the end. Appears youthful enough for continued future upside. 89 points
Remizières, Domaine des
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Cuvée Emílié
Syrah
1999
$55.99
13.0%
Brilliant, clear scarlet red to brick red colored core with some purple yet to be seen, the hues don’t change around the rims, simply loss a few ticks of intensity, very attractive presence. Brown sugar glazed ham, uncooked molasses bacon in the nose then a big ole burst of merde and freshly mown grass, the oak remains a powerful presence but there’s sufficient stone and mineral to temper most of its excesses, the black cherry, red currant, raspberry fruit nice and wiry but nowhere near plump. Medium-bodied, the acidity and the sourness of the oak locked in an epic battle, dill, dried vanilla bean, cedar and molasses. More thrust in the cherry, blackberry, currant fruit and a touch more sweetness. Same could be said for the white grapefruit, orange citrus but, then again, it might just be sweet oak influence here. Sure is tangy though and unleashes a good bit of energy as it progresses through the palate. Ends with more attention paid to the stones, earth and metal flecks, never quite gets an animal hide or leather thing going. Mighty wait a couple more years to let the oak subside more and hope the fruit’s still there. 90 points
Togni, Philip
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$65.00
Blackish purple core, then some purple before deep crimson to brick red rims, almost yellowing around the outermost edges. Bell pepper, lemongrass, cherry, red currant, plum, the fruit scents full and expansive without turning sugary, minerally earth, leaves and bark, not that developed but has a helluva pungency, no space unoccupied in your nostrils. wants to be the last to leave. Full-bodied with enough layers that it starts to feel like grip but probably just weight. The white grapefruit, lemon citrus lends fetching bite and draws out more acidity rather than the other way around. The tang in the fruit matched by the bell pepper and sharp stoniness. The molasses and brown sugar close to crème brûlée. Thick enough to not change much from start to finish but certainly a shining star of the vintage. Some small percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Franc added. 91 points
Quilceda Creek
Regional Blend, Washington
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$79.99
14.4%
Opaque purple core with a soft red magenta tint, Detroit rust red-orange, very bright in spite of the opacity without losing its street cred “brooding” look. Creamy nose of vanilla, toffee, caramel, butterscotch, thankfully recedes in favor of flowers, cedar, leather before a huge burst of blueberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit, moving in the direction of maturity but slowly. Medium-bodied plus, curiously displaying less body than expected, dry and tannic, with an emphasis on cedar, earth as well as cocoa powder, hard caramel candy, molasses. The red currant, red cherry, plum fruit closed up and hard to gauge but gets to the finish line. Minor nuances of orange peel and dried flowers. Hard to gauge where it is but not bad today, just not “da bomb.” 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Tenuta
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Vigna di Pianrosso
Brunello
1998
$46.99
14.0%
More crimson to red brick than purple in the core, orange rust tinged rims, clear with no real blemishes. Sugary sweet nose filled to the brim with plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit, orange reduction, pine needle, creamy caramel, flowers, thick and syrupy, very rich and satisfying but doesn’t necessarily scream “Brunello”! Full-bodied, the tannin and acidic structure comes on quickly before steamrolled by sugary, hyper-concentrated red cherry, raspberry, somewhat strawberry fruit, odd that the red complexion has this kind of density. Pine, wildflowers, the white grapefruit to lemon citrus has a wicked kick to it. Long and full, tasty to the very end but, again, not sure why it should be considered a success as a representative Brunello. 88 points
Murrieta, Bodegas Marqués de
Rioja, Spain
Castillo Ygay
Gran Reserva Especial
Tempranillo
1989
$19.99
13.0%
Clear crimson red, not a blemish in sight, segues to a burnt sunset orange at the rims, lots of reflectivity. Heavy perfume as well as good lift to the nose, mainly cherry cough syrup, wet cedar, pine needles, fresh orange peels, leather, pressed flowers, offers some raspberry, green apple and strawberry as well, excellent staying power as well, clings to the nostrils. Light to medium-bodied, the shed weight puts the flavors in higher relief. The acidity going strong, tannin no slouch either. Cedar, sandalwood incense, earth, pine, orange peel, potpourri spread across the mouth. If the dryness has an impact on anything it might be the cherry, raspberry, watermelon, apple fruit which is mostly tart and piercing if ending with a syrupy clinginess. Has your tongue licking the sides of your mouth both for moisture and as much flavor as might be there. Vibrant presence with no real signs of decay. Mostly Tempranillo, remainder Mazuelo, Graciano, Garnacha. 92 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Niederhäuser
Hermannshöhle
Spätlese AP #12
Riesling
2003
$42.99
8.5%
Soft glow to the greenish gold core, somewhat flat but still transparent enough, not much shift towards the rims, but not much to start from. The nose is big, full and soft even with developed rubber scents, citrus salad of tangerine, lime, pink grapefruit, lemon, tangelo, you name it, all ripe and juicy, the fruit scents are tropical but without edge, the papaya, mango, pineapple, apricot just pile on more ripeness, vanilla fudge notes too, close to zero stoniness or minerality just all that juiciness. Full-bodied, the lack of perceptible acidity noticeable from the start, no one conducting the orchestra. Once more, overloads on sugar coated pink grapefruit, lime, tangelo fruit, strong honey presence as well. Fruit cocktail of peach, apricot, mango, pineapple, cherry, nectarine fruit, richly concentrated. Even the floral dew feels heavy, like a blanket over the rest. The rubber element pushed way to the back, however, there’s more white pebbles, stones showing here. Scores high on the “fun factor” but not all the elegant nor betraying the possibility for future tertiary development. 89 points
Moreau Père & Fils, Domaine Christian
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillon
Cuvée Guy Moreau
Chardonnay
2002
$31.99
13.0%
The golden color has certainly deepened but not “mature” looking yet, slight filminess otherwise transparent, moderate fade around the rims. The nose gives up some troubling notes of coconut oil and vanilla but these subsumed swiftly by the minerally smokiness, lemon and white grapefruit zest, chili pepper and stone, pit/skin character to the apricot, pear, green apple scents, overall good shape with average penetration. Medium-bodied, muscular skeleton of acidity, all its punches hit their target. That chili pepper to jalapeño stronger here, lends more sourness to the white grapefruit, lemon citrus and metallic bite to the minerality. With air time and some warmth a pleasing florality develops. In turn, the apricot, peach, pear, red apple fruit deepens accompanied by moments of pineapple. Still, once you’ve swallowed there’s a bready, doughy residue. In very good shape, however, any left in the cellar gonna get popped sooner rather than later, no sense taking chances. 91 points
Merkelbach, Weingut Alfred
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Erdener
Treppchen
Auslese AP #10
Riesling
2001
$15.99
8.5%
Soft translucent bending of the light through the pure yellow gold core, lots of surface shine, holds on admirably through to the rims. The nose comes across as a little tight, terse utterances of rubber, asphalt, honeyed oranges, lilacs, inexpressive stoniness, the apricot, nectarine, pear scents consistent and without flash, overall technically correct. Medium-bodied, you can feel that the years have firmed it up, taut without getting angular and unyielding. Brush of milkiness otherwise, sweet ’n’ sour pink and white grapefruit, orange citrus, wet slate and chalk and honey. The tar, asphalt, rubber more in the background. Displays no discernible loss of power in the nectarine, peach, pineapple, passion fruit flavors. The acidity perhaps not as sharp as one might desire, yet, steady throughout and able to imbue the finish with good posture. Willing to gamble on more future development here over next 5-7 years. 89 points
Usseglio, Domaine Raymond
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Imperiale
Blend
2000
$85.99
13.5%
Faint filminess throughout the light violet to deeper red-ruby core, more of a zinc orange to red clay hue around the rims, pools nicely into the glass. Funky nose of wet earth, merde, fallen leaves and bark, then releases perfectly sweetened strawberry, raspberry, cherry scents with a resonant floral musk, blends in cocoa powder, orange zest and meadow flowers, comes across as just starting to mature, appealingly does not force itself on you. Medium-bodied with lots of tannin and acidity to increase mouth presence. Sour bite adds cranberry to the otherwise raspberry, red cherry, watermelon fruit base. Olive pit, leather, bark and dried lemon and orange peels lend it more rough and tumble character. Attractively earthy finish, pulls up some at the end but as much as anything a sign of needing to mature further, particularly given the magnum format. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre. 1.5 liter bottle. 90 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
2000
$74.99
14.5%
Semi-opaque core of mildly ruby tinged purple, no real filminess, showing some light orange-red bricking further out, fully saturated throughout. The nose strikes you as a fresh berry salad of blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, strawberry, jammy with no real “darker” fruit complexion, orange juice, sweet toffee and caramel oak, garrigues, virtually no sign of development albeit not unpleasant to sniff as far as berry salads go. Full-bodied with a velvety, clingy texture which massages every mouth pore. The acidity is sort of front-loaded into the attack, freshest part of the experience. After that, it’s an avalanche of molasses, toffee, caramelized brown sugar and butterscotch followed on by concentrated plum, black cherry, blackberry, black raisin and prune flavors, flip=flop from the nose fruit-wise. There’s an underlying smokiness which at moments can suggest earthiness but not really. To me, like Turley, this is a “guilty pleasure” wine, end of story. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2010
Steininger, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Novemberlese
Grüner Veltliner
2002
$18.99
13.5%
Deepened gold coloration with a good deal of amber orange going on, richness fades towards the rims, however, the translucent layering carries on. Initially there’s a lactose element to the nose which blows off in favor of tangerine, white grapefruit juice, deeply concentrated apricot, nectarine, guava fruit scents, honey glaze, even coconut juice, light oil or shale accent, well-ripened, to the point of being more viscerally fun than challenging. Full-bodied, here it has the acidity to equal that equation some, for all of its layered voluptuousness the acid is like electroshock therapy to the heart. As a result, it’s drier and more linear, yet, not necessarily better off for it as a good portion of the nectarine, apricot, pineapple, papaya fruit gets shaven off. Moreover, the white grapefruit, lemon citrus adopts a more tart profile. Under the storminess, there’s ample rose and lilac flowers but unable to enunciate clearly. The sheer extract ensures it lingers for awhile in the mouth, long enough to coax out the stream stone and mineral water shades. Has lost its baby fat without, arguably, gaining new dimension suggesting it was best slurped on release. (Synthetic Cork) 88 points
Girard
Napa Valley, California
Blend
1999
$55.99
14.3%
Red scarlet to purple core with a faint glow, opaque, burnt sunset orange to crimson rims of complete depth and saturation. Buttered caramel popcorn, menthol, butterscotch take up most of the nose, candied orange peel, vanilla fudge, comes up with this broad grassy streak before delivers succinct red cherry, blackberry, red currant scents, floral, really not that complex nor showing much sign of tertiary development. Medium-bodied, drying tannins clench the attack but the sugariness of the raspberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit picks up steam towards the mid-palate. Toasty oak, butterscotch and toffee are not “subdued” but also don’t demand the spotlight. Light minerality and parched earth, plays well off the white grapefruit citrus notes. Brush of mint and black licorice. All in all it’s not flawed, more or less uninteresting. Which at its price is itself a flaw. Leaves you with no idea where it “should” be at this age. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot. 88 points
Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy), Domaine d’
Burgundy, France
Auxey-Duresses
Les Clous
Chardonnay
1999
$74.99
13.0%
Rich, almost glazed gold to amber orange color, fetching transparency though as well as a sleek, shiny surface, minimal diminishment along the rims. The nose cuts with utmost precision, trace of milkiness, butterscotch, coconut and caramel, this quite refined, otherwise all white smoke, chalk dust, powdery minerals, fried lemon peel and a wiry core of apricot, red apple, pear fruit scents, it doesn’t lift as much as stand tall and lift the roof up over it. Full-bodied, the acidity as wide as it is deep, behaves like a tamed savage. Does an excellent job of penning off the caramel, butterscotch, coconut, albeit better job when chilled. The energy and sure-handed grip here cannot be denied, in full control start to finish. Slight marmalade or candied aspect to the orange, lemon, white grapefruit citrus, neither too sweet nor sour. The apple, pear, apricot, pineapple fruit has a pit/skin nature but still never seems to lack juiciness, crests during the first half. Afterwards comes mineral water, quinine, polished stone, chalk, minimal dustiness, more liquid in feel. Unforced length, however, it will tuck you into bed. Seamless presentation, these are the wines which earn the reputation. 95 points
Petit Chambord (François Cazin), Le
Loire, France
Cour-Cheverny
Cuvée Renaissance
Romorantin
1996
$23.99
13.0%
Very matured bronzed gold, mild translucency but mostly easy to see through, solid block appearance, only a little loss around the rims. Great grip in your nostrils, however, the nose does relax to unfold golden honey, tangerine to lime citrus, wet wool, vague waft of lactose, sparkly minerals and stone dust, floral perfume, cooler or warmer very big presence that sticks to the basics and executes them perfectly. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity is a tornado let loose in your mouth, supercharges every movement. Green apple, pineapple, nectarine, papaya and apricot fruit explodes, joined in the chaos by sweet and sour lime, lemon, tangerine citrus. The honey and brown sugar sweetens just the right amount to buffer the rest. The wool and milk pushed back a good deal by the acidity yet still there. Great constant presence across the tongue, finish goes on and on. As in the nose, stays within the parameters of its strongest parts and exceeds expectations. No rush to drink this bad boy. 94 points
Pontet-Canet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Blend
1994
$39.99
12.5%
Black purple, saturated brick red colored core, turns to scarlet to rust orange around the still thick rims, doesn’t reveal much loose sediment. Pungent nose of wet cedar, floral dew, sweet orange peel, sandalwood, dried herbs, hint of cocoa powder but not really oaky, good life left in the red currant, cherry, raspberry fruit, in the right place at this time and probably a few more years. Medium-bodied, the tannins have softened but ain’t excellently soft. This favors the stone, dried grass and hay, earth elements. The orange, white grapefruit citrus more pith than pulp. Leather, merde, cedar, lead, plays it straight up Pauillac, rugged with lots of chewiness. Needs food and should excel if paired properly. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Chantemerle (A&F Boudin), Domaine de
Burgundy, France
Chablis
l’Homme Mort
Chardonnay
2002
$29.99
12.5%
Deepened gold color, closing in on amber, moderate translucency, the aged appearance prevents much loss at the rims. Right off the nose hits you with spoilt milk, baking dough, honey and more salty brine than minerality, alas, yes, it’s oxidized out the wazoo, caramel coats all the poached peach, apricot, pear scents, luckily it all lacks staying power. Full-bodied, flat-footed even though you can feel the acidity muffled beneath the oxidation. The most attractive elements are the white grapefruit, orange citrus and all but hidden stoniness, both curiously stronger as it warms. The honey, caramel, cake batter, dough all quite evident, the lactose not as vociferous. Some liveliness left in the step of the peach, pear, apricot, red apple fruit but no real “cut.” In the final analysis, it is not completely prematurely oxidized beyond basic enjoyment, yet, this is not why you age Chablis. 85 points
Campion
Monterey County, California
Santa Lucia Highlands
Pinot Noir
2001
$25.99
14.0%
Red brick to orange rust colored core, more scarlet red hues towards the rims, faded and aged, yet, in no way looking over the hill. You get pine, eucalyptus, honey in the nose with a fistful of caramel, really full and expansive, perfumed raspberry, red cherry, strawberry scents, firm presence allows it to cling to your nostrils, finally offers grass and earth, in the end best enjoyed for its persistent energy. Full-bodied, the tannins and acidity retain a consistent thrust. Juicy, almost concentrated dried fruit character, to the cranberry, pomegranate, papaya, red cherry fruit. Coated further by orange, lemon, white grapefruit sweetness. More sinewy grip through the finish, releases notes of cedar, incense, stony earth and some herbaceousness. Still has the aggressiveness of youth, shifts on you from start to finish. Grapes sourced from Sarmento Vineyard. 91 points
Lagrange, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1998
$34.95
13.0%
Unblemished purple core of unusual clarity, the rims show ruby to scarlet hues, only moderate visible aging. The nose breaks out first with wildflowers, cedar, pine and menthol, solid red currant, red cherry fruit scents and a brace of white citrus, equal parts leather and vanilla powder, caramel, no explosion here but more than satisfying enough. Medium-bodied, retains a strong tannic skeleton, however, has softened some with time. Concurrently, kept a light hard candy sweetness to the red cherry, currant, raspberry fruit which is not about to give up the fight, albeit closes up some with air exposure. Cedar, incense ash, grapefruit, violets, leather and a stoniness born of tannic power, it doesn’t necessarily drink like a pedigreed classified growth yet a good step or two above just a basic claret. Comes across like a good time to catch it in as much overall balance as you might get, but still a small window for further improvement. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot. 88 points
Cornerstone
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Beatty Ranch
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$57.99
15.3%
Minor ruby inflections to the basic purple core, ruby to garnet rims with slight orange embellishments, liquid clear and without any obvious blemishes. The nose has good lift but lacks a center and drifts as a result, the black currant, cherry, plum fruit dried out and without length, good accents of flowers, pine, menthol and orange peel, some cedar and that’s about it. Medium-bodied, obviously has lost a good deal of weight and heft, tannin still there but most of the rest has vacated the premises. Cedar, leather, orange peel, bark and grass take precedence, you almost don’t notice the weak grip in the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit. Citrusy notes reverberate through the finish. The sad thing is that the flavors and texture is all there, just without the fullness required to create a complete experience. Sour finish.
86 points
Belle Pente Wine Cellars
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Riesling
2000
$17.99
13.0%
Bronzed orange color, closer to amber than yellow, definitely showing its age, close to looking like apple cider, pools deeply into the glass. The nose presents some petrol and oil in addition to lemon custard, pie dough, cinnamon and the apple cider scents hinted at visually, pear and apricot too, clearly tiring but not dead just yet. Medium-bodied, the acidity had deadened and thus it lacks some of the life of its former self. The orange, lemon citrus sweet and concentrated. The petrol helps fill a gap or two. Maderized lightly, truncates the otherwise decently concentrated apricot, peach, pear fruit. It’s not necessarily the flavors which are the problem, more so a general lack of liveliness. The cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger spice helps as best it can. If the acidity was able to inject more verve into things this experiment would have turned out quite nicely. 84 points
Tremblay (Domaine des Iles), Gérard
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaudésir
Chardonnay
2000
$24.99
13.0%
Dark amber orange color, you almost expect to see an insect immobilized within it, translucent shimmer to it, for all the richness of its age the rims fade all but completely. Candied orange peel, brioche, croissant, honey, mint, poached pears and peaches, supremely prematurely oxidized, little stone or mineral or anything one might have arguably paid for. In the mouth it's full-bodied, flat with a somewhat dusty texture. No activity to the acidity. Pineapple, peach, nectarine apricot fruit cocktail. Sweetly concentrated orange, lemon juice, yet adds some sourness. All that sweet flaky dessert stuff in full effect. Feels so tired by the finish it makes you feel tired. Curse the heavens. 82 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1999
$65.99
13.0%
The purple core shades into opacity, has pushed what ruby there is out into the otherwise scarlet red rims, incipient orange hues. Caramel, butterscotch, vanilla pudding the nose make it clear the oak yet very present, juicy red currant, cherry, blackberry scents with noticeable firmness, orange peel, wet cedar, some menthol, does not show signs of advancement, even insofar as to suggest future development. Full-bodied, smooth and even with sufficient tannin to have to type the word, acidity much lower. Semi-sour edge to the well-ripened currant, cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit, lasts well into the finish. Zesty lemon, orange citrus. Touch leafy or twiggy, smoky kindling edge. Leather too, but then it simply starts to repeat itself. Another highly credible red wine that lacks distinctness, easy to throw back a few glasses but they won’t be memorable. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah. 89 points
Jota, La
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Selection
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$39.99
13.5%
Dull, blackish purple core, broad rims of cough syrup red, burnt orange, the liquid has excellent clarity, bottle shoulder shows little sediment residue. Pleasingly semi-rustic character to the nose, pine needles, anise seed, mountain scrub, poor earth and some animal hide, pungent lift and really fills the nostrils, the red currant, cherry, black raspberry scents penetrate well, more verve than juiciness. Medium-bodied, lost a little bit of weight but likely leaner and firmer for it. The lower alcohol may contribute to its freshness, the acidity and tannin come through clearly without adopting too strong a presence. Hard candy sweetness to the raspberry, red cherry, cranberry, almost strawberry fruit, unusually “red” in feel. Pine, menthol, orange peel, pressed flowers add to its prettiness yet the cedar, sandalwood incense, merde, earth, stone, leather, elements carry the day. Flattens a touch through the finish, however, this is an enjoyable aged Cab close to its apex. 91 points
Maxwell
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Ellen Street
Shiraz
1998
$32.99
14.0%
Blackish purple core, not much vibrancy but has attractive clarity, the rims all about burnt orange and brick red hues, here there’s good intensity. Deep, resonant nose of plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit with a touch of prune, mixes in milk chocolate, menthol, mandarin orange and mint accents, not incredibly complex, however, its gentle insistence and breadth massage your nostrils into a happy place. Full-bodied, drier than expected with a good deal of dusty tannic residue that initially stymies the concentrated prune, fig flavors as well as the fresher plum, blackberry, cherry fruit. But this is only momentary, by the mid-palate you get the full effect as well as a solid burst of zesty orange, white grapefruit citrus. The eucalyptus, menthol somewhat muddied, blends into a twiggy element with fallen dried leaves. Full impact through the finish, no loss of weight whatsoever. This noted, at this age, one would expect more development which leaves you questioning its eventual arrival. Still again, happy to drink this now and probably into the near future. 91 points
Cumulus Wines
New South Wales, Australia
Orange
Climbing
Merlot
2005
$15.99
13.5%
Clear scarlet to purple hued core, strong orange to red brick colored rims, unsure if it’s showing it’s age or what, not unattractive, the burnt look appeals. Smoky nose brimming with molasses, butterscotch, vanilla, caramel yet also with a damp animal fur, leather element, the fruit scents a weird mix of plum, blackberry with peach and white grapes, comes across as scattered all over the place. Medium-bodied, mostly soft and pliable but still gets classified as a vertebrate. Blacker plum, cherry, blackberry than raspberry here, nonetheless sour for it. The charred oak, smoke nuances remain, don’t necessarily help settle it into the palate, dill, molasses, caramel, a mess basically. The acidity has heft and the tannins not far behind, however, they can’t do much to channel things. No idea what the goal was here. (Screwcap: Stelvin) 83 points
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
1999
$50.00
14.8%
Clear deep purple color with a slight ruby tint, the rims now showing as much scarlet red as ruby, bottle shoulder has zero sediment adhered to it, generally youthful, vigorous appearance. While the plump plum, blackberry, black cherry persists along with molasses, maple syrup and eucalyptus, this is no fruit-driven nose, has shed weight and carved out more room for white grapefruit, brown dirt mud, green olives and tanned cowhide, still not quite “sauvage” and as the primary aspects recede the alcohol more noticeable. Medium-bodied, not as round as it once was with more sinew and gristle to the body. Past the mid-palate dries out enough to see the obvious contrast. It’s not that the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit has faded per se, but it has lessened enough to bring the tannin more to the fore. Menthol, blood orange, white grapefruit, wildflowers stronger than any caramel or molasses elements. Turns woody and leafy at the end, adds to the mild astringency. This wine really has you hedging your bets, no clear signals. It could be in a dumb phase with a glorious rebirth ahead, it could be on the way down. Suppose the biggest question is will sufficient fruit last to see palpable tertiary flavors gain traction? We shall have to find out. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2010
Grand Corbin-Despagne, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1998
$19.99
12.5%
Some purple in the core, segues quickly to a vivid orange/red brick color, remains fairly youthful in appearance. The nose shows wet forest floor, tree bark, woody as in wood not oak, orange peel, moderate life in the red cherry, red currant scents, pressed flowers, there’s a great deal of swirling action in the nostrils yet no depth of scents. Medium-bodied, stays tannic and mostly unyielding, has kept a credible amount of cherry, currant, raspberry fruit but the tannin will win this race every time. The white grapefruit, orange citrus dry and full of pith. The leafy, woody qualities do not subside, cloak the fruit. Hasn’t really evolved into anything laudatory and leaves you with the impression it won’t. Nothing undrinkable but not some great hidden value either. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 86 points
Vacheron et Fils, Domaine
Loire, France
Sancerre
Pinot Noir
2005
$25.99
13.0%
Light, clear violet-ruby core with brighter ruby rims, this albeit showing some age. The nose is on the rough and tumble side, the merde takes time to blow off, then dried grapefruit peel/pith, flowers peek out some, more animal fur, the reductive notes linger, tart red cherry, raspberry scents punch quickly then dance backwards, then it all blows away. Light-bodied, very acidic with twig, bark, tree leaf, grass elements, your mouth starts puckering during the attack. Pomegranate, raspberry, red cherry fruit tart and fierce. By the mid-palate the tannin clamps down. Stony but too herbaceous for even any earthiness to show. The white grapefruit sucks more moisture out of your cheeks, echoes of lemon. Simply too attenuated to find an oasis of enjoyment. 84 points
Leroy, Domaine Richard
Loire, France
Anjou
Les Noëls de Montbenault
Chenin Blanc
2005
$44.99
13.5%
Semi-flat golden color, more concentration in the core with transparent rims, mildly layered. The nose drips with poached pear, peach, apricot scents, too wet to be dried fruit per se, dewy flowers, fresh honey glaze, tangerines and mineola oranges, extremely primary with only a light touch of chalk and stone, fullness lasts some time. Medium-bodied, were it not for the broad, dampening acidity it would be too sweet along with obvious oxidative notes. Honeyed bread, croissant crumbs, coconut flakes next to appear, more of the sugary, poached apricot, nectarine, peach, pear flavors. Sour zest to the tangerine, lime citrus, which in turn teases out a few herbaceous notes. Somewhat wooly, has stream pebbles but not especially minerally. Still too plump and youthful to judge the chance of serious tertiary development. 89 points
Maxwell
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Lime Cave
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$34.99
14.0%
Black core, you only get some purple nearer to the rims, which are mostly scarlet red with strong ruby remnants, the liquid surprisingly clear given the amount of sediment around the bottles shoulders. Strong Cab nose of cedar, leather, barnyard dirt, bell pepper and grass, does a good job of mixing in eucalyptus, orange zest and a late blooming floral musk, the cherry, red currant, persimmon fruit scents have both a taut form and thrust, overall the nose suggests a decanting might have been in order. Medium-bodied, even firmer here with ample tannin, this in spite of the gritty mouth texture which appears to contradict the visual assessment. Same basic profile as in the nose, leads with pencil lead, cedar, leather, stone dust and merde, the lingering bell pepper conjures up the idea of Cabernet Franc. Nice pucker to the orange, lemon citrus. Eucalyptus, mint and licorice try to add sweetness with mixed results. The same for the currant, cherry, boysenberry, pomegranate fruit, no problem weight or length-wise, just can’t soften the blow sufficiently. Big kudos for how the primary material has stood the test of time and how tertiary flavors have come about, simply wears you out after a couple of glasses. 89 points
Fichet, Jean-Philippe
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Les Gruyaches
Chardonnay
2002
$39.99
13.5%
More golden amber coloration, shiny surface with translucent layering below to fill the glass, not much hue loss at the rims. Mature nose of flaky, honeyed pastries, tangerine and lime zest, sweet baking dough, cinnamon, nutmeg, butterscotch, yet does not come across as prematurely oxidized at all, poached peaches, apricots and pears simply seem concentrated by age, mint and flowers, nose leaves you with the impression that it could knit the oak in further over the short-term. Medium to full-bodied, here the oak toast really comes out, mesquite smoke, caramel, butterscotch, fried fresh butter, however, never too sweet and presents itself with a measure of class. This also heightens the keen edge of the lime and orange citrus. Tongue only starts to slightly get dry well into the finish. The pear, red apple, apricot, peach fruit has kept most of its juiciness. Could become more streamlined in a positive sense, an argument could be made that the cork was popped too early. 91 points
Robin, Domaine Gilles
Rhône, France
Crozes Hermitagev
Cuvée Albéric Bouvet
Syrah
1999
$15.99
13.0%
Clean, trim cough medicine red influenced purple core, the medicinal to dried blood hues extend through the rims, just a hint of ruby left, cleanliness keeps it appealing. The nose is at once light and concentrated, that is, anything that is left is tighter and what’s gone is gone, licorice, orange marmalade, wildflowers, cherry to raspberry hard candy, cracked boot leather, no length problems with enough bite to perk things up. Medium-bodied, does shed weight as it moves towards the finish. Dry, not as tannic as once, however, the acidity still capable of a zing or two. Tart cranberry, blackberry, red cherry fruit wiry and has life throughout. Lost weight allows more herbaceousness to show, thankfully the minerally earth, tanned animal hide there to dampen this. White grapefruit zest could wake the dead. Almost more mouth perfume than tongue-based flavor. But, technically, this is always the case. Anyway, it is on the way down but not near there yet, one for those who have a severe jones for older Rhône Syrah. 89 points
Trevor Jones
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Dry Grown
Shiraz
1998
$31.99
13.7%
Super-clean red-ruby to violet in color, sparkly glass presence, more crimson to blood red around the rims but colorwise middle-aged in look. Svelte nose of clear contours, very direct and focused delivery of the forest scrub, wildflowers, pine needles, orange zest and fresh boot leather, any oak knit in with little toast and vanilla powder the most present, the red cherry, raspberry, boysenberry scents have a stripe of apricot with them, nothing jammy or overdone. Medium-bodied, the mouth-puckering acidity sets the tone from the first sip, lots of energy but no wasted movement. Sour raspberry, red cherry, cranberry, pomegranate fruit vibrates all the way through the finish, ably accompanied by white grapefruit, orange zest. Surprisingly you welcome the advent of toffee and caramel accents as a softening influence. Keeps that outdoorsy, forest character, the leather here verges on animality. Electric, texturally hard to get it to stop. Hate to be lame, could be a ringer from “that other place.” 92 points
David Bruce
Monterey/San Luis Obispo Counties, California
Central Coast
Petite Sirah
1998
$18.99
12.0%
Spotless core of diminished purple with brick red, semi-opaque, the rims more transparent with burnt orange, blood red hues and a vestige of ruby left. The nose has been pared down to its most essential message, merde, fallen tree bark, white grapefruit, pine cones, gusty lift to the sour cranberry, red cherry, raspberry scents, while it’s leanly muscular, the power of the fruit not to be doubted. Medium-bodied, as in the nose there is not an ounce of fat on its skeleton, doesn’t need much sustenance to go months alone in the wilderness. Driven mainly by white grapefruit, mandarin orange zest and pressed flowers, parched earth and back road pebbles. Herbaceous in a manner which only adds to the energy. Here the tart cherry, cranberry, raspberry fruit starts strong and drops a level or two before finishing, however, nowhere near shot. The acidity retains the powers of youth, the tannin perhaps more subdued. An experiment that paid off, loss of fruit more than compensated by tighter structure and added complexity. Whew. (Composite Cork) 89 points
San Leonardo, Tenuta
Trentino, Italy
Vallagarina
Blend
1999
$69.99
13.0%
Deep purple bruise color of full opacity, rims display an orange-red brick coloration, however, overall doesn’t look that advanced. Nice metallic, iron-tinged edge to the nose, broad white grapefruit pith element, then merde, dried grass, wildflowers, witch hazel, white pepper, absolutely cuts quite the figure in your nostrils, in addition unfolds richly ripe black cherry, currant, plum scents, nothing simple about it and not avoiding any essential part which might offend some. Medium to full-bodied, effortlessly spreads across the palate with you hardly noticing. Acidity here more of a driving force than tannin, firm and well-shaped without ever getting dry. White grapefruit, orange zest, pepper, wood kindling smoke, incense, witch hazel, pine, highly intriguing array of flavors. Prune, raisin veneer to the cherry, plum, currant fruit, could see it concentrating further but not necessarily getting sweeter. Delicious to drink now but might have some upside left too. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot. 92 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Monte Bello
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$119.99
13.0%
Little bit of murk to the dark purple core, crimson to brick red rims, surface shine remains youthful. Eucalyptus, vanilla, dill and caramel give the nose a yet youthful appeal, grill smoke sweetens the cherry, blackberry, black currant scents further, retains a strong primary appeal without many tertiary nuances developed. Medium-bodied, smooth and fluid, the tannins suave and only act when necessary. That sweet smokiness at the fore here, pine, eucalyptus, dill and vanilla replicate the nose, only drier here. The currant, plum, cherry fruit maturing, in some ways concentrating, in others drying out some. Balanced throughout, soft mouth feel makes for a seductive experience, whatever flavors may not be at their fullest is made up for by the texture itself. Has upside, just not sure for how long. 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 91 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1998
$75.00
13.0%
Clean deep purple core of solid opacity, the rims remain more ruby than brick red, youthful if middle-aged at worst. Dense plum, cherry, black currant fruit in the nose still, vanilla, honey and caramel, candied oranges and lilacs, primary yet curiously lifeless like it’s narcoleptic or something. Full-bodied, round and plush with both weight and flavors lasting through the finish. Not to say the tannin is weak, not the case, it’s dry when it should be and nowhere near sugary. Ripe fullness evident in the plum, blackberry, cherry fruit, bigger initial presence than in the nose before tapering off. Leather, bark, orange and lemon peel, any oak more or less knit into the whole by now, traces of caramel and toffee. You have no qualms finishing the glass and accepting the next one, it just doesn’t impress you as an especially complex wine of individual character. Nor does it leave you thinking it possesses such an elevated future. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Sangiovese, 10% Syrah. 90 points
Pride Mountain
Napa Valley, California
Reserve Claret
Blend
1998
$110.00
14.1%
Opaque purple core, however, not overly saturated and bright, some black and red mixed in, the rims mainly brick red and crimson rather than ruby. Very perfumed, floral nose with milk chocolate, butterscotch notes fitting in around the abundant plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit scents, hint of mint and cedar before it blows away, not as oaky as expected, however, not as developed either. Medium-bodied, fairly smooth with a mild tannic grit and dryness. There’s more of a sugary feel in the plum, blackberry, raspberry fruit, as if it was “jammy” in its youth. Flowers, tangerine citrus, licorice most evident next, chocolate, caramel and toast have leveled off, as in the nose. Hard to gauge if tertiary notes are still in the offing or this is just not the wine that is ever going to provide them. Does tighten a touch on the finish. Enjoyable enough, but you do want more for the price. 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. 90 points
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
1998
$28.99
13.0%
Basic purple core enlivened by strong red brick to burnt orange hues, clear and unblemished with minor signs of aging, if that, much surface reflectivity. Garrigues, leather, cedar, orange peel, dark chocolate powder, black earth unfold in the nose, the plum, black cherry, currant fruit scents trail behind the rest, digs up a pleasing metallic zing before finally dissolving. Medium-bodied, comes across as starting to dry out, an unexpected turn of events, tannins remain powerful, perhaps the culprit, The plum, currant, boysenberry fruit has its ups and downs, the white grapefruit to lemon citrus more consistent start to finish. The dryness does not allow the florality to expand, by the same token, it does give it firmness and shape. Leather, merde, aged cedar, fallen forest wood add to its rustic character. Honestly leaves you guessing whether it is shot or just still sleeping. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder unspecified percentages of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto. 88 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile
Riesling
1997
$35.00
13.0%
Almost bronzed gold color, possesses a translucent shimmer which deepens the hue, surface shine is good, trails off towards the rims, solid block in the glass. The nose comes up with a good deal of petrol, oil smoke notes, however, there is a sort of overall lifelessness going on, pressed orange peels and older potpourri scents, raw pie dough, licorice, not getting much out of the peach, nectarine, apricot fruit scents, has “weight” in the nostrils though. Full-bodied, dry attack with a dusty mouth feel which slowly dissipates as the sweetness of the peach, apricot, nectarine, green melon fruit asserts itself, Here the sweet dough and honey notes help to buttress the fruit. Tangerine, pink grapefruit, lime citrus adds sweet ’n’ sour appeal. The acidity slightly dull but can still hold its own. Attractive to drink today, nothing “simple” about it, but wouldn’t hold on to other bottles much longer. 89 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1997
$65.00
13.0%
Blackish purple core of near full opacity, strong bricking around the rims, cough syrup red with a metallic orange tinge, clarity average. Sweet garden herbs, orange peel, black licorice, sandalwood, pressed flowers provide a pleasing background in the nose for the somewhat dry plum, cherry, blueberry scents, turns earthier the more it sits in your nostrils, splash of vanilla the only trace of oak. Medium-bodied, appears to have shed weight since its youth, tannin still active and able to coat the tongue. Red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit as tangy as sweet, this aided by noticeable white grapefruit, orange accents. A grassy, earthy side takes hold as it opens, further drying out the finish. That said, not short per se, sort grinds itself down on the tongue instead. Might be a little upside left, but seems to have more or less plateaued. 25% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Syrah, 25% Merlot. 89 points
Jota, La
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
16th Anniversary Release
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$77.99
13.9%
The purple core is semi-opaque, provides sufficient visibility to at least see through the scarlet red rims, only mildly showing its age. Ripe, juicy nose of vanilla, milk chocolate, butterscotch and then concentrated blackberry, cherry, red currant fruit and eucalyptus, mountain scrub and wildflowers, with additional airtime the oak scents head to the fore. Full-bodied, tannins burred down and acidity under house arrest as well. Extraction in the plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit not to be doubted. Noticeably smooth with the tannins and acidity both tamed and at heel. Orange peel, pine, floral dew, vanilla and chocolate powder blow through. Tacky grip as it progresses through the mouth. The citrus really elevates through the finish. Leaves you happy to have pulled the cork if not ecstatic. 90 points
Calon-Ségur, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1995
$58.99
12.5%
Mild ruby touch to the purple core, opaque, further out you get thick crimson to brick red shades, still a great deal of primary saturation, brooding glass presence. The nose focuses on yet plump plum, cherry, red currant fruit, cedar, driftwood, garden herbs and orange peel, turns earthy and minerally and starts to close in on itself, swift floral lift before it’s gone. Medium-bodied, broad shouldered and moves away from you every time you try to engage it in dialogue. Vanillin oak, cedar, kindling wood, cracked leather give it credibility but the currant, cherry, plum fruit nowhere near spreading out. Orange peel with a suggestion of white grapefruit. Stony with a dried powder aspect. You sense its pedigree from the first step but there’s no “give” here nor immediate peg of pleasure on which to hang your hat. Any left will sleep for some time and hope for the best. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Grenouilles
Chardonnay
2000
$42.99
13.0%
Extremely deep golden color, were it not for the brilliant reflectivity you’d think it was way past its prime, slight diminishment along the rims, the intensity of the hue holds your gaze. The nose offers a substantial amount of seashell, stone bits, lemon glaze, the honey and breadiness is not out of control but definitely there, pleasing floral dimension, the apricot, pear, red apple fruit has held on credibly. Medium-bodied, moderately dry attack, the acidity more a dusting of the palate than a vibrant presence. Lemon, tangerine pith active and pairs well with that stone dust, shale sort of thing. Really only at the end does the wine betray any sign of premature oxidation, some flaky dough notes and a slight dulling of the tongue. Shows no palpable change after some time being open. Nice.
89 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Bougros
Chardonnay
2002
$46.99
13.0%
Deeper gold to light amber coloration suggests some age, transparent with some light-bending shimmer, holds its own in the glass. Mineral and stone dust in the nose retain credibility and lend some smokiness, lemon and tangerine scents a blend of sweet and sour, floral, slight overripeness in the apricot, peach, pear fruit, friendly and approachable, yet not flat and not showing anything but a slight brush of honey or baking dough. Medium-bodied, here there’s broader space taken by semi-oxidative notes but nothing truly disturbing at this juncture, simply softens the edges. Peach, apricot, pear, yellow apple fruit deep and long. Orange, lemon citrus more juice than zest. The acidity comes across as sluggish, although dry enough to find shape and moderately erect bearing. The stone, streamwater, mineral component adequate, can’t really give it more props than that. Overall, drinks like a nice AOC bottling not a grand cru. Which, typically, is not the best thing. 88 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Oberhäuser
Brücke
Spätlese Goldkap AP #17
Riesling
2000
$30.00
8.0%
Fat yellow gold color with the split of transparency and translucency a wine of its age should arguably have, faded rims, absolutely looks the part of a well-aged German Riesling. Golden honey, molasses and tangerine juice come close to overshadowing the petrol in the nose, oily with a reduced to dried fruit nature in the apricot, pear, yellow apple, mango fruit, the floral dimension expands as it warms, not much lift more inclined to soak into your nostrils. Medium-bodied, has a syrupy texture at first before the acidity dries it out some and then the raw dough and bread shades soak up some excess sugar. Bright, lively pink grapefruit, tangerine, lemon citrus a major focal point. Minor suggestion of grassiness with some streamwater, stone allusions as well. Solid core of apricot, papaya, mango, nectarine fruit that has both sweetness and contour. The length of the finish could be questioned, and there you get some lactose notes, still there’s always the option of refilling your glass. 91 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Barbara County, California
Grenache
2003
$38.99
15.2%
Blackish purple core leading into cough syrup red and flat reddish magenta further out, mostly opaque and has the appearance of an older wine. Earth and grass make a big initial impression in the nose, candied orange peel followed on by jammy raspberry, strawberry fruit and a strong raisin, dried fruit character, licorice, lose oomph over time allowing the alcohol to become more present. Medium-bodied with a heavier bottom and little lift, this bottle definitely showing signs of drying out, not too much life left in the red cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit. The orange, white grapefruit more dried pith than anything else. Garden herbs, anise and general leafiness pervade. The tannins don’t clamp down but certainly coat the tongue, acidity curiously absent. While it does open up a touch with air time, still does not reach the point where there’s credible depth through the finish. Enjoyable in a simple sense but heading towards the end. 86 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2010
Three Hills
Western Australia, Australia
Margaret River
Charles Andreas
Blend
1999
$29.99
14.5%
Black to purple bruise colored core, some ruby left in the otherwise crimson red rims, little sign of anything but fine sediment. In the nose the cherry, blackberry scents are drying out some, more cedar, sandalwood, dried orange peels and flower petals, very vague oak toast, manages a decent perfume before completing its short existence. Medium-bodied, here there’s more life left in the blackberry, black cherry, plum flavors, albeit the tannin still youthful and drying. Also apt to outlive the fruit at this point. The orange, white grapefruit component has some kick, more obvious toastiness which adds the gritty texture. Actually, appears to have better acidic zing through the end than one might expect. Nice wine, and honest, on the downward slope, alas. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22.5% Merlot, 22.5% Cabernet Franc, trace amounts of Malbec, Petit Verdot. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2010
Phelps, Joseph
Napa Valley, California
Insignia
Blend
1997
$110.00
13.8%
Dusky purple core, opaque but nowhere near black, easy crimson to brick red rims, very lively and not showing much age. Wet cedar, damp earth, slight metallic ring, followed on by milk chocolate, toffee, the currant, cherry fruit remains firm yet pliant, develops some florality but it’s really still densely packed or not going to unwind. Medium-bodied with a good deal of tannin that cakes the tongue, as well as join up with oaky vanilla powder, cocoa powder and various other dry substances. The plum, black currant, cherry fruit solid if not stolid. While it has credible structure, doesn’t seem to be pointing it in any given direction. Its weight and momentum throws you back on your heels, after that you may not notice what actually gets delivered. Opens to a point, just throws you back. All things considered, you might not want to push it too far more. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. 89 points
Banfi, Castello
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
1997
$49.99
13.0%
Semi-flat purple core, the clarity only evident through the burnt orange to crimson rims, about average surface shine. The nose has a bruiser’s demeanor, slugs its way in there without much of a plan as to do next, plum, cherry scents avoid pruney notes, strong orange peel and floral musk, the sweet oak appears to have knit in, shows little sign of positive evolution towards something not present in its youth. Medium-bodied and has noticeably lost some weight, even now it’s got a jiggle though. The acidity is slight and the tannin isn’t much better. The plum, cherry, currant fruit remains centerstage, Orange peel, floral fragrance, too dry for the oak to sustain caramel or vanilla flavorings. Maybe shows some cedar. Has become muddied over the years, good as a “red wine” but little here expresses Brunello. Which one supposes is why one laid down the fidy in the first place. 88 points
Pride Mountain
Sonoma County, California
Cabernet Franc
2000
$52.00
14.1%
Slight film to the red-orange brick influenced purple core, lots of sediment caught during the decant, crimson rims show only moderate aging. In the nose while caramel, butterscotch pave the way, the floor is ceded to incense musk, cedar, orange peel, mountain scrub shades alongside somewhat diminished plum, currant, cherry scents, nice because now it has to fight for your attention rather than just expect it, at times you almost imagine bell pepper. Medium-bodied, manages to stay upright with little evidence of acidity or tannin, except a pulverized dustiness. Flowers, orange citrus and menthol breathe life into otherwise moribund black cherry, currant, blackberry fruit. Heavy butterscotch, caramel, buttered popcorn, subsides some at the end. What’s kind of most interesting is how it shifts, at times pedestrian, at times catches your fancy. That said, easy to say there’s no real upside left. 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot. 88 points
Cornerstone
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Cornerstone Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$79.99
15.6%
The core remains a deep purple in hue, rims about equal parts magenta and brick red, not especially older looking, good surface shine. Nice Cabernet profile in the nose, black currant and cherry fruit, cedar, caramel, kindling smoke, hint of old potpourri musk, not that complex nor longlived but satisfying in a direct, guileless manner. Medium-bodied, a touch faded, loses its grip through the finish. Tannins remain dusty yet no longer in the driver’s seat. The cedar, sandalwood, potpourri here met by a metallic edge, along with tomato skins, inhibits inner mouth perfume. Through the first half no problem with the plum, currant, cherry fruit, deep and not too sweet, were there more length you’d likely get prune notes. You can tell it’s a thoughtfully made wine but at the same time the subtleties do not compensate for the fact it’s like four times more expensive than it should be. 87 points
Highlands
Napa Valley, California
Rutherford
Hozhoni Vineyard
Syrah
2003
$23.99
13.2%
Dark purple core, excellent clarity but opaque, dark red-magenta, plays the part of a middle-aged wine well. Sandalwood, cedar, driftwood, some oak spice but nothing overt, the plum, cherry scents touched lightly by prune accents, burst of floral musk, very subtle meaty notes, balance and reserve its most compelling aspect. Medium-bodied, quite acidic, helps it remain refreshing, especially given its age. At first there’s a good deal of butterscotch, caramel popcorn going on but as it opens this mostly dissipates. Strong white grapefruit presence. Tart red raspberry, cherry, cranberry fruit, while not deep per se in no danger of fading, lasts fully through the finish. At the end you get a sense of the pulverized tannin residue and there’s visual evidence of sediment on the bottle’s neck. Tastes like “cool climate” Syrah, has a leanness and sense of direction over trying to cram as much fruit in as possible. Strikes you as an overachiever, got as much out of the grapes as nature would allow. 88 points
Pavillon-Mercurol (Stéphane Cornu), Domaine du
Rhône, France
Crozes Hermitage
Syrah
2001
$11.99
13.0%
Filmy but not necessarily throwing sediment, dull reddish purple core, further out there’s strong bricking with lots of orange and yellow hues. The nose has the wet clumpy dustiness of many older wines, dry but sticky, stewed tomatoes and metallic notes there, yet, recede before plum/prune, currant fruit scents, flowers and tilled brown earth and cracked leather, fair amount of pungency yet. Medium-bodied, the tannins have been crushed to a pulp which lends it a dusty texture and there’s insufficient acidity to give it kick. Allowing for this, the core of plum, prune, fig, currant, blackberry fruit makes a good showing of it. Grapefruit pith and faded flowers next, some underbrush, not much suggesting a “sauvage” nature. Does dry out a little at the end, however, for a closeout at $7.56 wholesale in December 2009, damn good value. 88 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1996
$55.00
13.0%
Clear scarlet-purple core, carefully poured no sediment showing, strong brick red around the rims with a tinge of orange, looks aged but not appreciably so. The nose has gained in complexity and has a loosely knit feel, pine, orange peel, rosemary, basil herbs, licorice, as much fig, date and raisin as cherry and blackberry, more composure than flash, has length but not long per se. Medium-bodied, the tannin has been ground down to a fine powder, however, the acidity can put a charge in your mouth. Potpourri, pine, licorice and sweet herbs frame the attack, there’s dried fruit concentration to the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit but not the sweetness for prune or raisin notes. After this, the orange, white grapefruit citrus elevates. Some leafy, woody accents, not earthy. It does stumble a bit through the finish, however, it deserves kudos for representing itself in a mature, collected manner befitting its age. 25% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Syrah, 25% Merlot. 91 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Hommage à Georgette Trimbach
Pinot Gris
1996
$59.99
14.0%
Deep golden color resists turning amber, clear with a faint gauziness, holds on very credibly through the rims, looks “middle aged plus.” Beautifully pungent nose, powerful in its maturity, pineapple, papaya, nectarine, apricot fruit in full control, thick floral musk, spoonfuls of fresh honey, mint leaf, gentle smokiness a tickle of minerality, nothing here suggests being over the hill nor oxidation of any sort, lasts effortlessly. Medium-bodied, finely balanced with the acidity like a chaperone, making sure everyone behaves yet at times looks the other way during slow dances. Ginger, cinnamon spice along with honey and glazed lemon peels add sparkle to the attack, leading into a floral lift. The latter relieves much weight and sweetness in the pineapple, pear, nectarine, apricot fruit, not as tropical here as in the nose. Streamwater, washed pebbles glisten, not one for a metallic edge. Tightens its weave through the finish, pushing forward for a few more yards. Spectacular today, if this bottle is representative, quite a few years ahead. 94 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2010
Bürklin-Wolf, Weingut Dr.
Pfalz, Germany
Ruppertsberger
Gaisböhl
Spätlese Trocken AP #46
Riesling
1998
$38.99
13.0%
Crystal clear, vibrant amber gold in color, has held onto a slight green tinge, the rims do lose some hue intensity. The nose is aggressive and forceful with pineapple, guava, nectarine fruit accompanied by mandarin orange, white grapefruit, lemon citrus, displays a mint or anise edge, touch of sauna stone smoke and some rubber tire, overall just settles in there like it has the deed and you’re the squatter. Medium-bodied, dry and acidic in a powdery manner. This conditions the zestiness of the grapefruit, lemon citrus, ratchets it up ten levels. The pineapple, papaya, nectarine, peach fruit zings you big time. As it warms the herbaceousness grows, even suggests bell pepper. Mineral smoke consistent, solid role player. Clenches through the mid-palate, not sure if a product of youth or forever to be bunched up in nature. Leaves you unsure which, better to simply take it at face value. 90 points
Maculan
Veneto, Italy
Dindarello
Moscato
2006
$11.99
11.5%
Presents a washed out golden core, transparent with moderate dullness, manages to hold what hue is there through the rims. Poached apricot, pear swirl in the nose first, honey glaze, brown sugar, candied tangerine and lime, mint, floral musk, just relentlessly assaults your nostrils, seemingly immortal presence there. Medium-bodied, not as heavy as expected, all bright honey, orange marmalade, butterscotch and crème brûlée. Very fluid, glides given dessert wine level thickness, mid-tempo progression. Lots of acidity to keep it lively. The mint, violets and gregarious apricot, peach, nectarine, papaya, red apple fruit positively glistens. Caramel lifts through the finish. Effortless presentation. 375 ml bottle. 91 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Valmur
Chardonnay
2000
$45.99
13.0%
Clear light gold color, shiny and not betraying much age, only minor hue loss around the rims. Strong nose with muscular penetration, thick lemon peel, stone slabs and streamwater, favors rose petal led florality over crisper minerality, fully ripened peach, apricot, pear scents are completely at the height of their powers, overall maintains purity and clarity with only the merest suggestion of honey or bread. Medium-bodied, fairly loosely knit and open, spreads itself gently across the palate. The florality is even higher here with sweetly zesty orange, lemon citrus. The acidity is very fine, dries in dabs rather than go on the attack. More minerally here, even if this relents in favor of chalk and white stone powder. Nicely ripe pear, red apple, peach fruit. Just beautiful. 94 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Clos
Chardonnay
2000
$49.95
13.0%
Reflective straw gold in color, transparent, especially at rims devoid of hue, no real sign of aging. Semi-tight nose, almost all stone, chalk, sparkles with very fine mineral dust and lemon pith, gets close to white grapefruit, even the floral aspect is crisp, touch of fruit pit to the pear, peach scents, shade of pineapple too, turns a touch gentler as it dissolves. Full-bodied, muscular and arguably somewhat young. Dry the acid, not biting, like a big old sponge. Here you get a short burst of honey and dough which suggests a truncated future. Right now, though, lemon, orange grapefruit in the fore, violets. Less of a metallic edge to the minerals, more water and stone. Stays on a clearly demarcated path start to finish. Capable of improvement but it’s a roll of the dice if that improvement wins the race against the evil spectre of premature oxidation. 92 points
Amirault, Yannick
Loire, France
Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil
Les Malgagnes
Cabernet Franc
2005
$21.99
14.0%
Aggressively opaque purple core, not gonna try to go black, just be as dark as purple can get, super-saturated red-magenta rims, sleek surface. No avoiding the merde and peanut shells in the nose upon first opening, over time stabilizes into consistent plum, cherry scents, garrigues and wildflowers, cocoa powder, minimal herbaceous or bell pepper shades, beyond that funk built to please. Medium-bodied, has the tannic skeleton to create an impression of size which lasts beyond mere palate weight. Any white grapefruit or orange citrus sweet and zesty. The currant, cherry, blackberry fruit not spectacular but certainly no slouch and there when you need it. Moderate stone, earth qualities but nothing close to grassy, mild dustiness at the end the most terroir you get. Not showing any glaring lacks yet needs to round up into something more than plump fruit and tannin. Odds seem to be in its favor to improve. 88 points
Jota, La
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Petite Sirah
1997
$38.00
14.1%
Smidge of red-ruby to the purple core, above average width to the crimson to brick red rims, no sign of sediment, spotless liquid. Vanilla ice cream and toasted coconut in the nose the oak calling card, the roastiness evokes grill fat, tanned belt leather, blends in wildflowers and dried mint, the blackberry, black cherry fruit scents sturdy but succinct. Medium-bodied, the tannin has mostly resolved, however, some grit to be found. While possessed of a hard candy sweetness, the blackberry, raspberry, cherry fruit does not quite last fully through the finish. Hence, there’s much more room for the vanilla powder, butterscotch, coconut and cocoa powder, a little too much. Earthy and leathery, less animality here, more herbaceous bite. The more you sip the more the white grapefruit to lemon citrus becomes apparent. Flavors notwithstanding, palate weight consistent to the end. More expressive when initially popped than an hour or so later, suggesting that Charlie Parker was right, now’s the time. 88% Petite Sirah, 12% Viognier. 88 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
1999
$51.99
13.0%
Opaque purple core, slightly dusky but little sign of anything but very fine sediment, the rims extra-dusky, crimson to brick red, hardly differs from the core. There’s a raw directness to the nose, not closed, yet doesn’t offer an extra word, displays ground grass powder, mineral dust, snappy raspberry and red cherry scents, white grapefruit, opens a little into floral perfume, more leather than anything gamey, ends with ash and yesterday’s charcoal dust. Medium-bodied, taut, more or less a laserlight show in the mouth, even in spite of the tannic powder coating the palate. The acidity slices the red currant, pomegranate, cranberry fruit to slices. The white grapefruit, lemon citrus glitters. The herbaceousness is off the hook but not offensive. Minerals, olive pit, graphite, cowhide and saddle leather. Merde like a closed bag full, builds and builds. The fruit really pulls through at the end, lifts dramatically. 92 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2000
$37.99
12.5%
Small purple core with a medicinal red edge, very clear if dull brick red rims, noticeably transparent. Fair degree of flatulence in the nose but the very strong lift releases the pressed flowers, orange/grapefruit citrus, rawhide and damp earth notes, has a nice hard candy nature to the red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit scents, you get a meadow, field grass and scrub brush aspect yet not “green,” ends with a rising smokiness. Medium-bodied, the acidity has enough intensity to keep it alive in the mouth even as the flavors struggle to reach the finish. The cranberry, raspberry fruit on the sour side, contributes to the pucker factor. Conversely, the grapefruit, lemon citrus not as invasive as expected. Give credit to the florality, fights to the end. A honey or molasses aspect provides respite at the end. Decidedly gets better with air time, starts to get on the same page while also gaining additional clarity. 89 points
Jasmin, Domaine Patrick
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$39.99
12.5%
High degree of blackness to the purple core, appreciably gains in transparency closer to the rims, dried blood red with an incipient touch of zinc orange. Showing a lot of funk in the nose, peanut shells and farts, hard to get past it, sour mandarin orange, cocoa powder nuances blend with stone shards (no dust), the blackberry to cherry scents semi-angular, wildflowers and licorice help it spread out some, however, never really separates into clear elements. Medium-bodied, has a firmer core than expected and achieves both balance and youthful vigor. Leather, animal fur, not quite “foxy” but close. Tannin percolates steadily but it’s the acidity which really throws a punch. The currant, cranberry, raspberry fruit erect but not able to outlast the structure to the finish. Pink grapefruit, tangerine citrus has a sweetening presence. Heavy on stones, minerals as it opens and the fruit recedes. Burnt kindling smoke present but not woody. At times, a bit too much going on, even given its bound-up state. Needs tome, even with a so-so showing today one believes the fruit will last over the longer haul. 89 points
Petaluma
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Hanlin Hill
Riesling
2006
$11.99
13.0%
Super clean simple gold color, high degree of surface reflectivity with plenty of light bending below. Lots of firmness to the nose, admirably deep rubber accents alongside lemon peel, wet slate and chalk, the floral dimension softens things but there’s not much thrust in the peach, apricot fruit scents to team up here, very good length but not that much breadth. Full-bodied, sets itself squarely in your mouth like it wants you to try and knock it over. Here there’s a creaminess which is at odds with the rest, as if just when you think the acidity is going to hit you with 100 watts, it’s dimmed down to 75 watts. Stone, chalk, lemon peel and mineral water remain the primary focus but, again, needs more laser precision. The apricot, pear, apple fruit rises a notch, florality about the same. The rubber element not as obvious until the retronasal action kicks in. A nice expression of Aussie Riesling but nowhere near the apex. (Screwcap: Stelvin) 87 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Preuses
Chardonnay
2000
$73.99
13.0%
There’s a deepening towards amber at the core while still remaining mainly straw gold, looks like a maturing wine yet the rims so empty you could get mixed signals, retains a touch of surface shine. Ever wary of premature oxidation, the nose does give you some honey and bread, however, and especially with air time, it recedes in favor of mint, pressed flowers and peach pits, powdery mineral dust lingers most as it fades away. Medium-bodied, as in the nose, the dough, croissant, honey glaze notes most evident when first opened and, if they don’t fade, other elements rise up to diminish this component. Lemon water, wet pebbles, chalk set easily, utilizes mint, rose petals to pretty things up a notch. The fruit close to absent, peach, apple, pear echoes. The acidity possesses its full strength and helps the wine stay on point. This wine was more impressive on release, that said, given the choice of popping it now or waiting longer, the former appears to be the correct choice. Happy with the outcome today. 91 points
Alternatively you can continue on to read tasting notes on other older wines Hanes has put out of their misery.