Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in August 2010
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Oberhäuser
Brücke
Spätlese AP #7
Riesling
2003
$37.99
8.5%
Basic golden color, not too advanced, nothing that bespeaks filminess nor clarity, hints at a green tinge but doesn’t deliver, admirably, not much dilution at the rims. The nose lays out resonant sweet lime, tangerine, grapefruit citrus aside a moment of fresh rubber before vanilla pudding, whipped cream, licorice, rose petals give it a dessert wine feel, the peach, apricot, pineapple, green apple, pear fruit has good posture but still can’t but succumb to the underlying sweetness. Full-bodied in a syrupy sense, really not that much downward pressure on the tongue, more that what is there is downright clingy. Cane sugar, molasses, close to caramel splayed over the orange, pink grapefruit, lime citrus, soft drink to confectionary character. Thankfully, this one has some acidity left in the barrel and pulls off a few rounds to diminish the insipidity. Never shakes that strong vanillin aspect, with the moments of caramel or toffee remains firmly in the dessert aisle. This is a wine struggling to be more than it can, very admirable in the attempt. That said, you have to possess a serious sweet tooth to want more than a glass or so. 87 points
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
1999
$24.99
13.0%
Not even bronzed, this fits into the category of “orange wine,” sans the amphorae, remains perfectly clear with only a slight shift to yellow along the rims. Hard to complain that it is oxidized because with this producer you never really know what the desired result was supposed to be, definitely flat and more bready than yeasty, poached apricot, peach, pear, kumquat fruit lacking into sugariness, any florality subsumed by dried honey as well as a streak of herbaceousness, tart orange marmalade, baking spices, it’s not that there is a dearth of meaningful scents, nothing is activating them. Full-bodied, spreads across the tongue well, the acidity still has kick left and spares no effort trying to wake up the whole. Dry and yeasty, lots of unbaked dough surrounding the apricot, yellow apple, peach, pear fruit. Sour orange to white grapefruit pith. Floral but with no lift. Honey and brown sugar notes. Particularly if one is of an intellectual bent, you can’t say there is nothing here to intrigue. That said, it is tired and all it really has to offer is stories of a more vivid, multi-hued youth. Like a cool grandpa. Unspecified percentages of Viognier, Muscat, Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, Marsanne and Roussanne. 85 points
Best’s
Victoria, Australia
Great Western
Concongella Vineyard
F.H.T.
Shiraz
1999
$39.00
14.5%
Clean deep purple core, despite boatload of sediment stuck on the neck and cork, turns slowly to a more crimson, brick red around the rims, very resplendent surface, doesn’t truly look its age in the glass. The nose has a patina of toffee and milk chocolate but that’s it for the oak, attractive mint, licorice and eucalyptus accents, solid orange citrus component, the currant, cherry fruit sticks to the basics and there’s no “piling on,” only curiosity is that it doesn’t betray any strong tertiary notes. Medium-bodied, tight muscles and on the dry side with plenty of tannin still evident. Given the slight puckering of the mouth, expresses a good deal of contoured, ripe cherry, blackberry, black currant fruit with no appreciable loss at the finish. Chocolate, mocha with some vanilla and coffee, here too the oak is a minor component. The orange, grapefruit citrus hits with a flurry of jabs, softens you up for the flowers and eucalyptus, good rise in the mouth. Once more, very fresh and youthful even accounting for the drying influence of the tannin. This is all well and good but you don’t throw something down in the cellar for nine years expecting it to taste the same as when young. At least it’s delicious. 91 points
Jacob, Domaine Robert et Raymond
Burgundy, France
Corton-Charlemagne
Chardonnay
2002
$41.99
13.5%
Lightly bronzed golden color, the surface remains bright and shiny, little dilution at the rims, The nose displays a luxurious pliability, give without seeming soft, the butterscotch to caramel accents are obvious, however, not creamy as there’s a cleansing mineral water aspect underneath, light smokiness countered by flowers and lime zest, lightly poached peach, apricot, pear fruit scents, overall firm rather than penetrating, minimal breadiness or yeastiness. Medium-bodied, has a dry and dusty texture at first before soaking into the palate with rich apricot, peach, yellow apple, pear fruit. The lime, tangerine citrus lends liveliness as well as lift when paired with the floral mist. While no lack of the same caramel to butterscotch oak flavors, they fit the whole naturally. More stone, chalk or streamwater than biting minerality. But that dryness and smooth, even general presentation keeps it flowing as well as constraining any excess sweetness. Has freshness left, in a very good place but not at the end of its best drinking window. More yummy than regal. 92 points
Fontenil, Château
Bordeaux, France
Fronsac
Blend
1998
$18.99
13.0%
Solid purple core with full ruby to more brick red at the rims, doesn’t appear its age, looks like a decently saturated red wine. The nose is somewhat mute, floral, lemony citrus, leather and weaker cherry, red currant, blackberry fruit, after awhile some licorice comes out along with a little barnyard aspect, just boring in the end. Medium-bodied, even lighter at moments, trails off weight-wise at the end. At first presents a dried fruit edge with prune and raisin notes then trails off into more standard cherry, plum, blackberry. That said, the tannins remain dense enough to shorten the fruit’s presence as well as lay some dust on the tongue. Mixed white citrus, pressed flowers and mint, the oak mostly a toasty residue with coconut and vanilla bean flavoring. It’s a decent drop, nearing the back end of its best drinking plateau, only justified complaint would be lack of tertiary development. But what do you want for nineteen bucks? Mostly Merlot, remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. 87 points
Failla-Jordan
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$48.00
13.6%
Mild dusky character to the opaque purple core, thickly layered blood red to red magenta rims, overall looks like an aged wine that looked like an older wine right out of the chute, surface shines nicely, underneath lacks liveliness. Presents a big, billowy nose of beef jerky, cracked pepper, white grapefruit, then a healthy bushel of red cherry, blackberry fruit, the oak brings a sour dill aspect, offers a gentle patina of animal hide as well, steady nostril presence. Full-bodied with a good deal of fat left on the bones, the oak provides an ample cushion of vanilla, butterscotch and molasses and on top lays down a block rocking beat of raspberry, cranberry, red cherry, pomegranate fruit, relative weakness of the acidity and tannin yet allows the fruit to spread as broadly as it likes. Solid dose of white grapefruit, orange citrus, adds to the sour pucker factor. Floral without a noticeable herbal streak, conversely the minerality and iodine elements might enunciate better. But these are mere quibbles as its vivacity wins you over real quick like plus the resonance of its flavors are not negligible given its age. 90 points
Pfeffingen, Weingut
Pfalz, Germany
Ungsteiner
Nussriegel
Spätlese AP #7
Gewürztraminer
2003
$23.99
10.5%
Green tinged worn gold color, clear given its solid density in the glass, not much fade along the rims, just sits impassively in the glass, waiting. The nose could not be larger scale, smoother, rounder nor creamier, it’s like someone stuck an orange creamsicle up your nostril, key lime pie, green melon, apricot, pear, peach compote, vanilla pudding, caramelized brown sugar, just about the only counterpoint is the bitter nuttiness, this is one atom bomb of sugary sweetness. In the mouth it’s full-bodied with a similar profile, very creamy and soft, expansively fills every crevice. Soft drink, confectionary quality to the tangerine, lime, pink grapefruit citrus with a shovel full of vanilla, caramel, toffee and molasses on top. Somewhere underneath all this must be some acidity as it manages to dry up into a recognizable shape by the finish. Layers of peach, honeydew, apricot, mango, pear, red apple fruit, fruit cocktail consistency. The nuttiness again more bitter than anything, kind of underripe. This is definitely the “hedonistic” side of the grape, steamroller of all that is sweet and sticky. 87 points
Lafouge, Jean et Gilles
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Les Meix Chavaux
Chardonnay
2002
$33.99
13.0%
Moderately translucent yellow gold color with a “middle aged” look, solid block in the glass, good surface shine, the rims show average loss of hue. The nose is beginning to betray milky, lactose notes and undesirable breadiness, the sign of that which cannot be named, otherwise acceptable peach, apricot, pear fruit of firm contours, flowers, lemon to lime citrus reduction, no smokiness but there’s a discernible stoniness and maybe even a suggestion of chili pepper, no nuttiness which can be found in some matured Meursault. Medium-bodied, the acidity has charge to it which helps turn the citrus towards lemon and white grapefruit. Again, the chili pepper there next to the stone, chalk notes. The fruit has a tenuous grip, mainly peach, pear, apple and a splash of pineapple. The dryness throughout tends to staunch the flow of any sweeter honeyed notes but, hey, probably reduces the breadiness, doughiness as well which is good if you’re not into pre-mox flavors. Kind of makes you think it’s a Chardonnay from Marlborough. Much better in its youth although not entirely unsatisfactory right now. Makes you wish you started collecting wine at 18, more time to make a few innocent mistakes. 88 points
Dal Forno, Azienda Agricola Romano
Veneto, Italy
Valpolicella Superiore
Blend
1999
$109.99
14.5%
Minimal purple visible, just blackened red to orange brick, the rims have an even more burnt orange hue, moderate opacity throughout, looks its age. Smoky nose, like last night’s camp fire wood, heather and wildflowers, the fruit not the strongest element but what’s there is candied in character, cherry to blackberry, mixed patina of milk and dark chocolates, caramel, the undercurrent of orange citrus equally sour and sweet. Medium-bodied, dry and acidic from the start, prickles the palate. This heightens the woodiness as well as any minerals or earth aspects, though it stops short of turning appreciably grassy. The red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit front-loaded and then truncated, not quite extending through the finish. Blood orange, lemon and then a hint of white grapefruit citrus, a needed element, breathes life into the mid-palate. One might reasonably expect more depth and length from this one. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella. 87 points
Mitchelton
Victoria, Australia
Nagambie Lakes
Print Label
Shiraz
1998
$28.00
14.5%
Blackish-red core, very clear, bright pumpkin orange rims, pretty with a mature, but not old, appearance. Bracingly sweet and sour nose of cranberry, raspberry, red cherry, pomegranate fruit, straw and meadow grasses, orange and grapefruit with a light layer of chocolate, dried garden herbs, not really that uni-dimensional and distinct in ways that are not always obvious but keep you interested. Medium-bodied, has a good sense of itself, how to pace things and distribute its weight. The plum, black currant, black cherry fruit is muscularly dense, tangy sourness throughout and lasts fully to the end. The tart quality of the orange, grapefruit citrus tempers the caramel, butterscotch, vanilla nuances. There’s a gamey, smoked beef jerky quality to it as well, before a welcome grassiness arrives to steady things more. Stony at turns as well, not quite “profound” but a very good example of cooler climate Shiraz that remains within the framework of the expected but, at the same time, shows you that it doesn’t have to be a flabby ooze monster to impress, even from a riper vintage. 89 points
Harlan Estate
Napa Valley, California
The Maiden
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$95.00
14.5%
Black purple turns into a flat crimson, scarlet and bright brick red, well-aged in look but nowhere near being over the hill. Dense cherry, black currant, blackberry fruit of richness and contour, mocha powder, coconut flakes, caramel in good proportion, orange citrus zest adds to lift, cedar appears with some time, again has very good shape even if it sticks to pushing the mainline juice. Medium-bodied, unexpected acidity and then tannin which gets the mouth entry in a military posture, tangy red currant, cranberry, red cherry with a bright orange, grapefruit component. Nice green, earthy edge with leather and cedar. Caramel and butterscotch soften the landing. Has a suave fruitiness and tight finish, good punctuation showing attention to craft. This is in a very good place right now. Contains some small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. Second label of Harlan Estate. 91 points
Fox Creek
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$49.99
14.5%
Dark, if clean, red crimson inflected black-purple core, deep scarlet rims, the absence of ruby suggests aging, however, still looks pretty damn saturated. Heavy and plush nose of cassis, plum, black cherry, prune fruit, eucalyptus, licorice and candied oranges, toffee, milk chocolate, has a floral side but can barely get out of the chair, after a few sniffs becomes redundant. Medium-bodied when you think it should have more body, the acidity cuts away and then there’s just the receding black cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit and orange, lemon fruit pie notes. Chunky, dusty texture which shortens the whole experience. And brings out more herbaceousness than you’d ever expect. The milk chocolate, cocoa, mocha can’t soften nor sweeten things. Mixed white citrus and herbs, cedar, the oak comes out mixed up together, no real distinct flavors. Yeah, you can tell it’s a Cab but it’s more or less characterless. 88 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile
Riesling
1997
$35.00
13.0%
Deepening golden color but not fully mature visually, shiny surface with a noticeable translucent bending of light below, slight diminishment along the rims, solid presence in the glass. The nose remains fresh and fairly primary, wet flower petals, mint, juicy orange and lemon citrus, bowlful of green to red apple, pear, apricot, peach, nectarine fruit, the rubber and stone aspects remain clearly in the background, moderate length, better fullness per se. Full-bodied, layers itself across the tongue, the acidity on the wimpy side, not inactive as much as gets pushed around. Hence, the pineapple, green apple, pear, apricot fruit takes up more space than it should while the white grapefruit, orange citrus sugary more than tangy. Wax and rubber combine with pie crust and honey to round things out. Loaded with flavor yet needs more energy and liveliness to make a more lasting impression. 90 points
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1997
$27.99
13.0%
Light, clean brick red to purple hued core, burnt scarlet to incipient orange at the outer edges, very bright and sparkly given its age. Very smoky and leathery nose, crisp grass and close to bell pepper element, lot of surprising ripeness left in the red cherry, strawberry, raspberry scents, cedar and smoke with a tiny pinch of orange citrus, lifts decisively, minimal trace of sweeter oak. Medium-bodied, dry and still tannic without being insufferably so, allows flow to the red cherry, red currant, blackberry fruit through the finish. The herbaceousness is indeed strong, wood kindling smoke and tar, some leather. Derives a pleasing bite from the orange to white grapefruit citrus, crackles through the mid-palate. Youthful in terms of structure and remainder of fruit, however, leaves you a touch unsure of what upside it is going to have from this point on. It may be at its most harmonious now. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Baumard, Domaine des
Loire, France
Savennières
Chenin Blanc
1996
$14.99
13.5%
The rich golden color has not diminished any of the high sheen to the surface, glistens in the glass, some browning, the rims steady and not dilute. Typical beeswax, honey, lanolin driven nose, orange marmalade, poached peach, pear, apricot scents, gain more depth nearer room temperature, mint and lilacs as well, over time develops both a smokiness and milkiness, creates a nice interplay. Medium-bodied, the acidity still wiry and strong, however, the wine is getting fleshier with time, more breadth and less lean focus. The honey to molasses dapples the apricot, peach, pear, apple, persimmon fruit flavors. More mineral, stone, earthy dust here to dry out the total experience. The orange, lemon citrus sweeter without undue concentration. The waxiness more a knit in part than standout. Florality comes on late and helps get it into the air. Soft, sappy finish, lingers very well. Just about as it should be. 92 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Knights Valley, California
Obsidian
Syrah
2003
$45.00
15.1%
Black-purple takes up like 98.36% of the surface area, razor thin rims of red-ruby to magenta, while there is some surface shine, the obvious opacity does not give you much reason to give it more than a cursory glance. There is a spicy bacon to tanned leather element to the nose, mesquite grill smoke and molasses, even the orange/lemon citrus seems fried, licorice and butterscotch, toffee, focused burst of plum, cassis, blackberry fruit scents complete the offering. Full-bodied but feels like it has lost heft, especially in the middle. The acidity is pretty good, perhaps a contributor to the aforementioned, Coffee, butterscotch, caramel pairs up with the mesquite grilled meats to make a sweet yet also savory mouth entry. The plum, black cherry, currant fruit feels like it has lost juice and hollowed out some. The orange, white grapefruit citrus tries hard to do its part and does activate the mid-palate. The thing is, it just can’t shake this artificial feel, like here’s the powder, just add water and, bam, instant Syrah. Too generic to warrant the price tag. 87 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Grenache
2003
$35.00
15.5%
Opaque black core which only admits of purple further towards the more flat ruby rims, squats in the glass with authority but nothing special to look at. Wet nose of juicy blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, red apple fruit, honey glaze and freshly squeezed orange juice, hard to imagine it being more primary if it just stopped fermenting, maybe some eucalyptus but, truly, there’s nothing else to note. Full-bodied, sloppily juicy in a good-natured drunk fashion, just wants to be everyone’s friend. Caramel, butterscotch, whipped fresh butter amplify the sugariness of the raspberry, red cherry, strawberry fruit, which, uhh, didn’t necessarily need the amplification. Any tannin or acidity was whupped good and head for the hills long ago. The lemon to orange citrus has a soft drink consistency. Floral in a spring blossom way, pregnantly rich but not destined to last. Sweet herbs and black licorice manage to create diversity without creating a sugar overload. The finish is long like a alarm clock which keeps going off because you forgot to turn it off before leaving town for the weekend. 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Cabernet Sauvignon
2003
$65.00
14.8%
Deep purple core, close to opaque, heavily saturated crimson rims, on the dull side but there’s no doubting the richness of the liquid color. Huge, overstuffed nose of plum, black cherry, blueberry, blackberry fruit, jammy and sugary, orange pulp, eucalyptus and mint, milk chocolate, coconut oil, vanilla with nothing which even comes close to expressing mature Cabernet Sauvignon, just gobs of fruit. Full-bodied, thick and gluey in the mouth too, even the tannins seem clumpy. Sweet, just about honeyed cherry, blackberry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit with orange, lemon reduction plopped on top. Caramel, coconut, butterscotch, toffee, mocha, the oak is pure and transparent to the taster. Eucalyptus and pine sneak in there too. Lazy ending, just kind of slouches on the couches. Very little chance that this is gonna emerge the swan. 86 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2003
$49.99
13.0%
Somewhat advanced golden color, however, lacks the concentration of a matured wine, still light translucency there and the rims hold the hue well. The nose is heavy and sluggish, like someone naturally big who was once an athlete and then stopped working out, lemon pie, mint, peach, apricot, pear fruit with more cobbler/pie feel, the doughiness seems more a product of overripeness with poor structure than premature oxidation, not flawed but the flabbiness and lack of any mineral aspect leaves it wanting. Full-bodied, to its credit the acidity really does try to breathe life into the wine but it’s just fleshy and flat to be helped. Peach, apricot, pear, yellow apple fruit as well as orange citrus flavorful, if sluggish. Honey and molasses thicken things further, the mint to lilac accents keep it sweet and friendly, more Chardonnay than Chablis. The oakiness creamy with vanilla, butterscotch, caramel flavors which buttress the honey notes. Hard to dislike it, especially if you put it out of your mind that it is premier cru Chablis. 86 points
Castillo, Casa
Jumilla, Spain
Las Gravas
Blend
2001
$21.99
14.5%
The purple core taking on a black to red cast, not especially vivid if perfectly clean and clear, much more scarlet to burnt sunset orange along the rims, lots of color to go around and not really appearing very aged. Ripe nose of cherry, plum, blackberry fruit, could see it taking on more of a dried fruit feel over time, orange concentrate, floral dew, very pregnant fullness, light swipe of cocoa powder, primary and not seemingly close to maturity. Full-bodied, sappy and overripe, here the prune, raisin comes through alongside the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, shades of mint, licorice, flowers before much stronger milk chocolate and orange juice notes. The tannin a steady anchor, helps staunch excess sweetness. Some hay and straw notes nearer the end. Good stuff, not sure why it hasn’t developed more by now. Hmmm. 50% Monastrell, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 89 points
Zerbina, Fattoria
Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Ravenna Rosso
Marzieno
Blend
2000
$44.99
14.5%
The core is more of a blackish crimson red than purple, the rims brick to blood red with the slightest hint of orange, very vividly hued and clean, looks like an older wine but you suspect it looked this way young too. Nose of candied, liqueur-like cherry, raspberry, blueberry fruit followed on by matted straw, earth, horse hair, dried blood oranges and a slow breeze of wildflowers, never heavy in your nostrils but you feel it there, pleasing mix of sweet and dry elements. Medium-bodied, very similar to the nose, leads with hard candy cherry, raspberry fruit with a floral perfume resting on top. Licorice and orange to lemon citrus keeps it open and approachable. Over time more of the acidic and tannic structure asserts itself, although neither a dominant force, takes on a fluffy tackiness. Which leads into straw, hay, meadow grasses, light leatheriness and parched brown earth. Finishes slightly short, this likely a product of being consumed on its own rather than with food. Built well. 80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 88 points
Mustiguillo, Bodega
Viño de Mesa, Spain
Quincha Corral
Blend
2000
$45.99
14.0%
Bright purple core, squeaky clean with a very dark ruby influence, perfect clarity through the garnet to crimson hued rims, impressively vivid, definitely catches your eye. Initially there’s a real barnyard funk to the nose, all merde and wet animal hide, this normalizes with time into sweet, concentrated bing cherry, plum, blackberry fruit scents, milk chocolate covered oranges, pressed flowers, stays relatively simple with moderate lift, more of a hover, non-flashy fullness. Medium-bodied, sweet and sappy from the front, has the consistency of maple syrup, cherry, plum to prune, blueberry, blackberry fruit slides across your tongue to drip down your throat. Lime and orange citrus here, more of a bite and spritz, blends into the wet flower petal component. Has kept a stripe of caramel and toffee, even some notes of café au lait. The tannin helps to frame the finish, does not dry things out as much as ensure there’s good posture through the end. Satisfying wine that keeps its reach within its grasp. 85% Bobal, 10% Tempranillo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2010
San Gregorio, Feudi di
Campania, Italy
Irpinia
Serpico
Blend
1999
$38.99
13.5%
Densely opaque purple core, leading to broad, saturated rims where the red-ruby is turning to more crimson, brick red, throws a fair bit of chunky sediment. Heavy mocha roast, coffee in addition to tar, horse hide, thick plum to prune, black cherry scents, the oak retains a palpable presence, the more it opens the less individuality you get, more just a big, fruity wine. Full-bodied, the tannins have subsided to the point where it’s equally fruit forward here, plum, black currant, cranberry fruit with white grapefruit and lemon to add some counterweight to the fruit’s sweetness. Oak toast obvious, mocha, cocoa, coffee rind with leather, tar and black earth close to an afterthought. Heavy enough to make an immediate impression, especially if you just like being impressed. 70% Aglianico, 30% Merlot, small amounts of Syrah and Piedrosso. 88 points
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
1998
$28.99
13.0%
Black core, skip over purple to get to hues of crimson, scarlet red, retains credible vibrancy in the rims, looks like a wine in the end of being middle aged. Sweet, dense plum, black cherry, black currant fruit in the nose, renders it less mobile than might be desired, traces of leather, caked brown earth, garrigues, mint and orange pulp, then a brush of milk chocolate, does not lack for resonant scents, only an overarching direction to it all. Full-bodied, still has some tannic grittiness, as well as sediment based chewiness, but its structure is mostly a product of sheer density. Some sourness to the Italian plum, blackberry, cherry, boysenberry fruit, brings out more of the white grapefruit citrus. Flowers and sweet herbs leaden, can’t add spring to its step. All this said, if you are in the mood for a super-sappy wine with some aged qualities, it ain’t bad. But hard to make an argument that it improved since its youth. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder unspecified percentages of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto. 88 points
Cold Heaven Cellars
Santa Barbara County, California
Second Sin
Syrah
2003
$39.99
13.5%
Light violet color with a good deal of ruby influence to it, core just achieves opacity, clean ruby-red rims, no fine sediment but there are plenty of big old chunks settled at the bottom of the glass, nothing about it colorwise suggests advancing age. Fairly high-toned nose, not alcoholic but scrubs the nostrils, wildflowers and orange zest lead into blueberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit, firm ripeness, the floral musk grows, the oak toast stays in a supplementary role, touch of milk chocolate, little tertiary development, minimal stoniness too. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with a decent acidic spine to improve the posture of the plum, blackberry, blueberry fruit which naturally wants to settle into heavy layers on the tongue. Toasty with mixed vanilla and chocolate notes, this milkiness run down by white grapefruit to mandarin orange citrus. There’s a sourness which helps extend the whole but doesn’t necessarily add complexity. Decent finish, with an increase in bell pepper and green grass. Interesting, seeks a more distinct personality than it does not quite achieve. Grapes sourced from Purisima Mountain, Bien Nacido Hillside, Volgelzang Vineyards. 89 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
2002
$44.00
12.5%
Advanced golden yellow color, if not “mature” per se, clear enough with a steady loss of hue towards the rims, nothing especially unusual here. Floral nose with a healthy amount of lemon and lime pulp and peel, washed white stones to chalk, something like pine, the apricot, pear, apple fruit scents erect enough to keep the whole experience fluid, more smokiness yet than breadiness or honey, a good sign when it comes to the issue of premature oxidation. Medium-bodied, flattens out somewhat on the tongue but no denying that the acidity has lots of kick to it. Here there is a yeasty, doughy quality that hasn’t achieved undue sweetness. The pear, yellow apple, melon, apricot fruit at a fine level and pairs up well with the lemon to lime citrus, the latter evenly sweet and sour. Some chalky, flinty notes but nearing the finish, it does sort of deaden on the palate, dries out without the vibrancy of the acidity able to help. Nice, particularly before the finish, I’d still drink up sooner than later. 88 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Ynez Valley, California
Larner Vineyard
Syrah
2002
$26.99
14.9%
Opaque black-purple bruise of a core, deep enough to mask any blemishes or sediment, the rims as ruby as red, youthful yet in overall look. Jammy nose stops short of developing a dried fruit character, drips with plum, blackberry, black cherry, cassis fruit, the concentration makes it hard to get more than mocha bits, eucalyptus and orange reduction out of it, muffled florality, light pepperiness but the fruit overwhelms much else. Full-bodied, leads off with a nice citrus array of orange, white grapefruit and lemon, zesty but sweet underneath. Caramel, softer butterscotch and milk chocolate present, the oak is there but steamrolled along with much else by that cavalcade of plum, cassis, black cherry fruit. Tannin seems more perceptible than acidity, dries in a more dulling than refreshing fashion. The floral dimension can’t gain traction any more here. This is a big, chewy wine that commands your attention while in your mouth, if not always your interest. Fans of primary flavors will appreciate it best. 88 points
Kloster Eberbach, Hessische Staatsweingüter
Rheingau, Germany
Rauenthaler
Baiken
Spätlese AP #46
Riesling
2002
$25.99
9.5%
Rich golden color verges on amber, mild translucency helps hue hold on through the rims, pools solidly rather than have the surface appear separate. Burnt gasoline and tropical pineapple, guava, star fruit, papaya dominate the nose, has a small softening element of milkiness, sweet pink grapefruit juice notes, light mineral water and iron flecks, excellent thickness and staying power, lingers forever. Full-bodied, zesty acidity activates the pink to white grapefruit, tangerine, lime citrus, fairly explosive. The acidity brings out lots of life in the pineapple, nectarine, apricot, green apple fruit. More rubber than acrid gasoline here, contributes to overall roundness. Lactose really comes on through the end. While the flavors last well, the weight goes on and on. Muscular while pliable enough to give when you need, can last and maybe improve for many years. 90 points
Damilano, Azienda Agricola
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Cannubi
Nebbiolo
2000
$59.99
14.0%
Crystal clear medicinal red with a thin orange rust edge of a rim, the hue is aged but it remains sparkly and vibrant in overall appearance. Maraschino cherries, pressed rose petals, orange peel and leather make up most of the nose, has a steady undercurrent of earthiness, plums and raspberries join in as it opens, on the whole clean and not fully expressive, suggesting some miles yet to go to its best. Medium-bodied, tannic and dry from the first sip, the acidity is strong as well, and does help smooth it out some. The red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit savory throughout in spite of the structure, the lemon and orange citrus adds more pucker than tighter bite. The floral side has to stuff to spread wings better with time. Tar and earth there but still needs time itself to unwind. Can give pleasure today but needs food and a serious decanting. 88 points
Fleur de Boüard, La
Bordeaux, France
Lalande de Pomerol
Blend
1998
$19.99
13.0%
Blackish purple core, curiously clear and unblemished, strong brick red to burnt crimson rims, shows age in terms of hue but not throwing much sediment. Vanilla, mocha, cedar, caramel infused nose, the oak obviously going strong, healthy floral dimension, the plum, black currant and cherry scents still have power, blends in some lemon zest and ginger, feels like it is starting to streamline but has a good deal of youth left. Medium-bodied, very fleshy and fruity upon opening than, with time, starts to close down some, the tannins taking charge. Offers orange, lemon and close to white grapefruit zest. Stony with cedar accompaniment but not really leathery nor showing distinct tertiary notes. Tart red cherry, cranberry, raspberry, red currant fruit, lots of pop and sizzle, more dry than sweet, yet no lack of length. Actually somewhat “hearty” and more honest than expected. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Réserve IX Improbable
Grenache
2001
$59.99
14.0%
Flat blackish core without much purple, fades to a dull reddish brick with brown tones, clear and without blemishes, just not visually interesting. Dewy floral nose with orange juice, sweet spices, cocoa powder, caramel and raspberry, strawberry, blackberry fruit scents, fairly youthful and unevolved, thick and close to gluey in your nostrils, longlasting presence. Full-bodied, fat yet with a grainy dryness, like tannic residue, this doesn’t do much to “structure” the wine though. As much sourness as sweetness in the cranberry, rhubarb, red cherry, raspberry fruit, tart orange to lemon pith. Ample serving of coconut, caramel, butterscotch and milk chocolate. Less of the fluffy garrigues and wildflowers. This is a highly pleasurable wine that has of yet not shown any distinct development and likely won’t. Drink and enjoy, no sense in waiting. 88 points
Noon
South Australia, Australia
Langhorne Creek
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$75.00
15.5%
Deep purple bruise colored core, however, up close not as fully opaque as from a distance, the broad rims still show a youthful vigor of ruby-magenta to violet hues, nothing visually suggests a 12 year old wine. The nose, however, lacks the penetrating power of its youth and the alcohol shows through clearly, if you can adjust then there’s a bounty of eucalyptus and a firm core of prune, blackberry, black cherry fruit, blends in dried orange peels, vanilla powder and vague florality. Full-bodied, there’s a great deal of dusty, tacky wood tannin left, nothing that suggests more supple natural tannin. That said, has kept a good deal of the initial sweetness in the blueberry, boysenberry, blackberry fruit, especially during the first half. More life in the orange citrus and the eucalyptus does take off some of the dry edge. Traces of caramel, vanilla fudge, toffee but the oak flavors have diminished, just not the residual textures. Keeps its weight through the finish. No noticeable change after being open an hour or so. Not bad, however, has not changed enough to add new, intriguing dimensions, better right out of the chute. 88 points
Chappellet
Napa Valley, California
Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$75.00
14.5%
Slight blackishness to the core tips the purple over into opacity despite their being nothing really “dense” about it, the clarity evident around the crimson red to ruby hued rims, despite the age evident in the coloration retains a very saturated look. Cedar, mint, vanilla bean, coffee lend diversity to the nose, menthol and orange pith set the stage for the hard candy concentrated cherry, blackberry, plum fruit scents, neither too red nor black and without dried fruit characteristics, there is a palpable herbaceous dimension but it’s been shaved down to the utmost user-friendliness. Medium-bodied, the tannins built to make themselves noticeable more than actually structure, thus there’s a round and semi-plush texture with a mild drying sensation at the end. More plum, black currant and black cherry than any “red” fruit here, however, truth is there’s a case to be made that’s it is starting to fade, Menthol, eucalyptus, orange and lemon zest and cedar maintain a solid presence, not that earthy nor leathery. Good, unforced length at the end. It’s very satisfying as a higher end Napa Cab, however, it lacks the “wow” factor the price warrants. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2010
La Louvière, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pessac-Léognan
Blend
1999
$16.50
13.0%
Dark purple bruise of a core, its inherent cleanliness has it avoiding opacity, the crimson to brick red rims betray its relatively middle age. The nose has a leafy autumnal character to it, bark, dried grass, old cedar, the Italian plum, black cherry, blackberry scents succinct, orange peel but more minerally and stony, the florality breaks a real sweat trying to get off the ground. Medium-bodied, quite firm, shows more bubbliness during first 30 minutes open then starts to close up shop. Nothing lacking in the plum, black currant, cherry fruit, just no extra cushion. The tannin going strong while the acidity has spring in its step, both likely to outlast the fruit. That said, in a nice drinking place now with orange, lemon citrus, pressed flowers, leather, damp minerally field earth, herbaceous cut but no bell pepper. Slugs its way through the finish, displays honesty in its lack of table manners. It absolutely has its rewards and is an enjoyable example of “everyday claret” which was priced appropriately those many years ago. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Leitz, Weingut Josef
Rheingau, Germany
Rüdesheimer
Magdalenenkreuz
Spätlese AP #3
Riesling
2003
$18.99
8.0%
Transparent, pale white-green hay in color, hint of yellow at the core, decent shine, average overall appearance. While the nose displays a noticeable fresh rubber component, it’s mostly about the syrupy tangerine, lime, pink grapefruit citrus as well as concentrated peach, pear, apricot, red apple, cherry fruit, thick floral dew, honey, almost sticky presence in your nostrils. Full-bodied, the acidity tries but gets swept away in a flood of caramelized brown sugar, molasses, honey and almost milk chocolate. Soupy, juicy lime, tangelo, pink grapefruit citrus, all sweet, no sour. Same can be said for the apricot, pear, melon, cherry, peach fruit cocktail. Here there’s even a vanilla creaminess. Had hoped that time would have helped it shed its fat but no such luck. Bought the bottle by mistake, had to at least try. 85 points
Rustenberg
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Simonsberg
John X Merriman
Blend
2005
$30.99
14.5%
Purple to brick red core, somewhat brooding appearance, displays cough syrup red rims with a burnt orange outer edge, very clear, especially further out. Smoky, leathery nose with roasted cherry, plum, red currant fruit alongside tar, black earth, does a good job of hiding the underlying vegetal nature, stays very fruit driven. Full-bodied, dry and tannic with a solid acidic punch as well. Concentrated dried fruit touch to the plum, blackberry, black cherry flavors, fortunately the dryness controls the fruitiness. The leather, tar, earth and minerals hold back from taking a dominant position while maintaining solidity through the finish. Hard to get a full handle on it, not really “aged” per se while possessing a pleasing semi-chewiness and does throw some sediment. Good wine, well constructed but nothing spectacular. 54% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, 1% Shiraz. 88 points
Ojai Vineyard, The
Santa Rita Hills, California
Clos Pepe Vineyard
Pinot Noir
2003
$44.99
14.0%
Dark, yet clear, violet core with some ruby tint, remains mostly youthful at this “middle aged” stage. Black cherry, blackberry, black raspberry fruit impel the nose, with pressed flowers and lemon oil has a palpable fullness without heaviness, somewhat monochrome, best part is the textural push into your nostrils. Medium-bodied, fills the mouth adequately and anchors itself well enough. The cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit too thick to develop meaningful lift, and does slow down the forward progression as well. The orange, white grapefruit, lemon citrus more sweet than sour. The acidity manages some kick but overall no match for the weight of the fruit. Not showing any tertiary signs. Foursquare but definitely fruity and viscerally pleasing. 86 points
Primo Estate
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Joseph Moda Amarone
Blend
2002
$37.99
14.5%
Dusky purple core, opaque with a brick red influence, deeply crimson stained rims, orange and almost yellow at the outer edges, underscores the clarity of the liquid. Molasses, mesquite grill smoke and ginger blossom in the nose, dense plum, cassis, cherry scents, orange peel, sprig of mint, while retrained allows its innate power clear. Full-bodied, while large in scale fairly velvety with good forward momentum. The orange and lemon citrus juice sweet and tangy. Today the mint, pine, pressed flowers most evident, the caramel, molasses more or less knit in. The baking spices evident, dredges up some sandalwood, incense notes too. The super lively plum, currant, black cherry fruit in full control start to finish. Recognizably “export mainstream” Australian in style but not overly spoofed. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot. Made in the style of Italian Amarone, drying the grapes before crushing. 89 points
Knoll, Weingut Emmerich
Wachau, Austria
Dürnsteiner
Ried Schutt
Smaragd
Grüner Veltliner
2001
$34.99
14.0%
Thick, waxy looking liquid of deepened gold to amber hue, showing some age but becomes more transparent towards the plainer straw yellow rims, the surface has moderate luster to add. Needs to warm some to show its best but then the nose yields bountiful white smoke, tart white grapefruit to lemon citrus, pineapple, guava, nectarine, green apple, kumquat scents keep it edgy although the florality is pretty when allowed to speak, the minerally bite grows and grows as it opens. Medium to full-bodied, has the traction and density you expect and want, the acidity is perfectly fine and able yet defers to anchoring rather than lifting. The grapefruit, orange citrus sweeter here while no match for the tang in that pineapple, guava, passion fruit, nectarine, kiwi flavors. The minerality retains that smoky, almost acrid edge while at the same time there’s a suggestion of lactose too. Pressed flowers, pine, a kind of forest breeze follows on after all that, the flavors lose a touch of intensity at the end but the weight keeps plowing along. In a very good place right now. 92 points
Cape d’Estaing
South Australia, Australia
Kangaroo Island
Shiraz
2001
$39.99
14.0%
Densely opaque and pure purple core, scarlet red and orange has replaced the ruby in the rims. Attractive floral lift to the nose, mint, sweet orange peel, milk chocolate, cocoa, sweet yet tangy currant, cherry, boysenberry fruit scents, has unusually firm and contoured shape in the nostrils, offering personality without pressing itself on you. Medium-bodied, the acidity jumps right out front, puts life in the blueberry, boysenberry, raspberry fruit as well as pink grapefruit to tangerine citrus. Mixes in eucalyptus to mint notes, savory herbs, cocoa to mocha accents, shows some developing leather or tar, however, in an embryonic state. Its gritty grip reduced the overall fruitiness level, actually gets your mouth puckering at the end. Appears youthful enough for continued future upside. 89 points
Remizières, Domaine des
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Cuvée Emílié
Syrah
1999
$55.99
13.0%
Brilliant, clear scarlet red to brick red colored core with some purple yet to be seen, the hues don’t change around the rims, simply loss a few ticks of intensity, very attractive presence. Brown sugar glazed ham, uncooked molasses bacon in the nose then a big ole burst of merde and freshly mown grass, the oak remains a powerful presence but there’s sufficient stone and mineral to temper most of its excesses, the black cherry, red currant, raspberry fruit nice and wiry but nowhere near plump. Medium-bodied, the acidity and the sourness of the oak locked in an epic battle, dill, dried vanilla bean, cedar and molasses. More thrust in the cherry, blackberry, currant fruit and a touch more sweetness. Same could be said for the white grapefruit, orange citrus but, then again, it might just be sweet oak influence here. Sure is tangy though and unleashes a good bit of energy as it progresses through the palate. Ends with more attention paid to the stones, earth and metal flecks, never quite gets an animal hide or leather thing going. Mighty wait a couple more years to let the oak subside more and hope the fruit’s still there. 90 points
Togni, Philip
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$65.00
Blackish purple core, then some purple before deep crimson to brick red rims, almost yellowing around the outermost edges. Bell pepper, lemongrass, cherry, red currant, plum, the fruit scents full and expansive without turning sugary, minerally earth, leaves and bark, not that developed but has a helluva pungency, no space unoccupied in your nostrils. wants to be the last to leave. Full-bodied with enough layers that it starts to feel like grip but probably just weight. The white grapefruit, lemon citrus lends fetching bite and draws out more acidity rather than the other way around. The tang in the fruit matched by the bell pepper and sharp stoniness. The molasses and brown sugar close to crème brûlée. Thick enough to not change much from start to finish but certainly a shining star of the vintage. Some small percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Franc added. 91 points
Quilceda Creek
Regional Blend, Washington
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$79.99
14.4%
Opaque purple core with a soft red magenta tint, Detroit rust red-orange, very bright in spite of the opacity without losing its street cred “brooding” look. Creamy nose of vanilla, toffee, caramel, butterscotch, thankfully recedes in favor of flowers, cedar, leather before a huge burst of blueberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit, moving in the direction of maturity but slowly. Medium-bodied plus, curiously displaying less body than expected, dry and tannic, with an emphasis on cedar, earth as well as cocoa powder, hard caramel candy, molasses. The red currant, red cherry, plum fruit closed up and hard to gauge but gets to the finish line. Minor nuances of orange peel and dried flowers. Hard to gauge where it is but not bad today, just not “da bomb.” 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Tenuta
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Vigna di Pianrosso
Brunello
1998
$46.99
14.0%
More crimson to red brick than purple in the core, orange rust tinged rims, clear with no real blemishes. Sugary sweet nose filled to the brim with plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit, orange reduction, pine needle, creamy caramel, flowers, thick and syrupy, very rich and satisfying but doesn’t necessarily scream “Brunello”! Full-bodied, the tannin and acidic structure comes on quickly before steamrolled by sugary, hyper-concentrated red cherry, raspberry, somewhat strawberry fruit, odd that the red complexion has this kind of density. Pine, wildflowers, the white grapefruit to lemon citrus has a wicked kick to it. Long and full, tasty to the very end but, again, not sure why it should be considered a success as a representative Brunello. 88 points
Murrieta, Bodegas Marqués de
Rioja, Spain
Castillo Ygay
Gran Reserva Especial
Tempranillo
1989
$19.99
13.0%
Clear crimson red, not a blemish in sight, segues to a burnt sunset orange at the rims, lots of reflectivity. Heavy perfume as well as good lift to the nose, mainly cherry cough syrup, wet cedar, pine needles, fresh orange peels, leather, pressed flowers, offers some raspberry, green apple and strawberry as well, excellent staying power as well, clings to the nostrils. Light to medium-bodied, the shed weight puts the flavors in higher relief. The acidity going strong, tannin no slouch either. Cedar, sandalwood incense, earth, pine, orange peel, potpourri spread across the mouth. If the dryness has an impact on anything it might be the cherry, raspberry, watermelon, apple fruit which is mostly tart and piercing if ending with a syrupy clinginess. Has your tongue licking the sides of your mouth both for moisture and as much flavor as might be there. Vibrant presence with no real signs of decay. Mostly Tempranillo, remainder Mazuelo, Graciano, Garnacha. 92 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Niederhäuser
Hermannshöhle
Spätlese AP #12
Riesling
2003
$42.99
8.5%
Soft glow to the greenish gold core, somewhat flat but still transparent enough, not much shift towards the rims, but not much to start from. The nose is big, full and soft even with developed rubber scents, citrus salad of tangerine, lime, pink grapefruit, lemon, tangelo, you name it, all ripe and juicy, the fruit scents are tropical but without edge, the papaya, mango, pineapple, apricot just pile on more ripeness, vanilla fudge notes too, close to zero stoniness or minerality just all that juiciness. Full-bodied, the lack of perceptible acidity noticeable from the start, no one conducting the orchestra. Once more, overloads on sugar coated pink grapefruit, lime, tangelo fruit, strong honey presence as well. Fruit cocktail of peach, apricot, mango, pineapple, cherry, nectarine fruit, richly concentrated. Even the floral dew feels heavy, like a blanket over the rest. The rubber element pushed way to the back, however, there’s more white pebbles, stones showing here. Scores high on the “fun factor” but not all the elegant nor betraying the possibility for future tertiary development. 89 points
Moreau Père & Fils, Domaine Christian
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillon
Cuvée Guy Moreau
Chardonnay
2002
$31.99
13.0%
The golden color has certainly deepened but not “mature” looking yet, slight filminess otherwise transparent, moderate fade around the rims. The nose gives up some troubling notes of coconut oil and vanilla but these subsumed swiftly by the minerally smokiness, lemon and white grapefruit zest, chili pepper and stone, pit/skin character to the apricot, pear, green apple scents, overall good shape with average penetration. Medium-bodied, muscular skeleton of acidity, all its punches hit their target. That chili pepper to jalapeño stronger here, lends more sourness to the white grapefruit, lemon citrus and metallic bite to the minerality. With air time and some warmth a pleasing florality develops. In turn, the apricot, peach, pear, red apple fruit deepens accompanied by moments of pineapple. Still, once you’ve swallowed there’s a bready, doughy residue. In very good shape, however, any left in the cellar gonna get popped sooner rather than later, no sense taking chances. 91 points
Merkelbach, Weingut Alfred
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Erdener
Treppchen
Auslese AP #10
Riesling
2001
$15.99
8.5%
Soft translucent bending of the light through the pure yellow gold core, lots of surface shine, holds on admirably through to the rims. The nose comes across as a little tight, terse utterances of rubber, asphalt, honeyed oranges, lilacs, inexpressive stoniness, the apricot, nectarine, pear scents consistent and without flash, overall technically correct. Medium-bodied, you can feel that the years have firmed it up, taut without getting angular and unyielding. Brush of milkiness otherwise, sweet ’n’ sour pink and white grapefruit, orange citrus, wet slate and chalk and honey. The tar, asphalt, rubber more in the background. Displays no discernible loss of power in the nectarine, peach, pineapple, passion fruit flavors. The acidity perhaps not as sharp as one might desire, yet, steady throughout and able to imbue the finish with good posture. Willing to gamble on more future development here over next 5-7 years. 89 points
Usseglio, Domaine Raymond
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Imperiale
Blend
2000
$85.99
13.5%
Faint filminess throughout the light violet to deeper red-ruby core, more of a zinc orange to red clay hue around the rims, pools nicely into the glass. Funky nose of wet earth, merde, fallen leaves and bark, then releases perfectly sweetened strawberry, raspberry, cherry scents with a resonant floral musk, blends in cocoa powder, orange zest and meadow flowers, comes across as just starting to mature, appealingly does not force itself on you. Medium-bodied with lots of tannin and acidity to increase mouth presence. Sour bite adds cranberry to the otherwise raspberry, red cherry, watermelon fruit base. Olive pit, leather, bark and dried lemon and orange peels lend it more rough and tumble character. Attractively earthy finish, pulls up some at the end but as much as anything a sign of needing to mature further, particularly given the magnum format. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre. 1.5 liter bottle. 90 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
2000
$74.99
14.5%
Semi-opaque core of mildly ruby tinged purple, no real filminess, showing some light orange-red bricking further out, fully saturated throughout. The nose strikes you as a fresh berry salad of blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, strawberry, jammy with no real “darker” fruit complexion, orange juice, sweet toffee and caramel oak, garrigues, virtually no sign of development albeit not unpleasant to sniff as far as berry salads go. Full-bodied with a velvety, clingy texture which massages every mouth pore. The acidity is sort of front-loaded into the attack, freshest part of the experience. After that, it’s an avalanche of molasses, toffee, caramelized brown sugar and butterscotch followed on by concentrated plum, black cherry, blackberry, black raisin and prune flavors, flip=flop from the nose fruit-wise. There’s an underlying smokiness which at moments can suggest earthiness but not really. To me, like Turley, this is a “guilty pleasure” wine, end of story. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2010
Steininger, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Novemberlese
Grüner Veltliner
2002
$18.99
13.5%
Deepened gold coloration with a good deal of amber orange going on, richness fades towards the rims, however, the translucent layering carries on. Initially there’s a lactose element to the nose which blows off in favor of tangerine, white grapefruit juice, deeply concentrated apricot, nectarine, guava fruit scents, honey glaze, even coconut juice, light oil or shale accent, well-ripened, to the point of being more viscerally fun than challenging. Full-bodied, here it has the acidity to equal that equation some, for all of its layered voluptuousness the acid is like electroshock therapy to the heart. As a result, it’s drier and more linear, yet, not necessarily better off for it as a good portion of the nectarine, apricot, pineapple, papaya fruit gets shaven off. Moreover, the white grapefruit, lemon citrus adopts a more tart profile. Under the storminess, there’s ample rose and lilac flowers but unable to enunciate clearly. The sheer extract ensures it lingers for awhile in the mouth, long enough to coax out the stream stone and mineral water shades. Has lost its baby fat without, arguably, gaining new dimension suggesting it was best slurped on release. (Synthetic Cork) 88 points
Girard
Napa Valley, California
Blend
1999
$55.99
14.3%
Red scarlet to purple core with a faint glow, opaque, burnt sunset orange to crimson rims of complete depth and saturation. Buttered caramel popcorn, menthol, butterscotch take up most of the nose, candied orange peel, vanilla fudge, comes up with this broad grassy streak before delivers succinct red cherry, blackberry, red currant scents, floral, really not that complex nor showing much sign of tertiary development. Medium-bodied, drying tannins clench the attack but the sugariness of the raspberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit picks up steam towards the mid-palate. Toasty oak, butterscotch and toffee are not “subdued” but also don’t demand the spotlight. Light minerality and parched earth, plays well off the white grapefruit citrus notes. Brush of mint and black licorice. All in all it’s not flawed, more or less uninteresting. Which at its price is itself a flaw. Leaves you with no idea where it “should” be at this age. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot. 88 points
Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy), Domaine d’
Burgundy, France
Auxey-Duresses
Les Clous
Chardonnay
1999
$74.99
13.0%
Rich, almost glazed gold to amber orange color, fetching transparency though as well as a sleek, shiny surface, minimal diminishment along the rims. The nose cuts with utmost precision, trace of milkiness, butterscotch, coconut and caramel, this quite refined, otherwise all white smoke, chalk dust, powdery minerals, fried lemon peel and a wiry core of apricot, red apple, pear fruit scents, it doesn’t lift as much as stand tall and lift the roof up over it. Full-bodied, the acidity as wide as it is deep, behaves like a tamed savage. Does an excellent job of penning off the caramel, butterscotch, coconut, albeit better job when chilled. The energy and sure-handed grip here cannot be denied, in full control start to finish. Slight marmalade or candied aspect to the orange, lemon, white grapefruit citrus, neither too sweet nor sour. The apple, pear, apricot, pineapple fruit has a pit/skin nature but still never seems to lack juiciness, crests during the first half. Afterwards comes mineral water, quinine, polished stone, chalk, minimal dustiness, more liquid in feel. Unforced length, however, it will tuck you into bed. Seamless presentation, these are the wines which earn the reputation. 95 points
Petit Chambord (François Cazin), Le
Loire, France
Cour-Cheverny
Cuvée Renaissance
Romorantin
1996
$23.99
13.0%
Very matured bronzed gold, mild translucency but mostly easy to see through, solid block appearance, only a little loss around the rims. Great grip in your nostrils, however, the nose does relax to unfold golden honey, tangerine to lime citrus, wet wool, vague waft of lactose, sparkly minerals and stone dust, floral perfume, cooler or warmer very big presence that sticks to the basics and executes them perfectly. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity is a tornado let loose in your mouth, supercharges every movement. Green apple, pineapple, nectarine, papaya and apricot fruit explodes, joined in the chaos by sweet and sour lime, lemon, tangerine citrus. The honey and brown sugar sweetens just the right amount to buffer the rest. The wool and milk pushed back a good deal by the acidity yet still there. Great constant presence across the tongue, finish goes on and on. As in the nose, stays within the parameters of its strongest parts and exceeds expectations. No rush to drink this bad boy. 94 points
Pontet-Canet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Blend
1994
$39.99
12.5%
Black purple, saturated brick red colored core, turns to scarlet to rust orange around the still thick rims, doesn’t reveal much loose sediment. Pungent nose of wet cedar, floral dew, sweet orange peel, sandalwood, dried herbs, hint of cocoa powder but not really oaky, good life left in the red currant, cherry, raspberry fruit, in the right place at this time and probably a few more years. Medium-bodied, the tannins have softened but ain’t excellently soft. This favors the stone, dried grass and hay, earth elements. The orange, white grapefruit citrus more pith than pulp. Leather, merde, cedar, lead, plays it straight up Pauillac, rugged with lots of chewiness. Needs food and should excel if paired properly. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Chantemerle (A&F Boudin), Domaine de
Burgundy, France
Chablis
l’Homme Mort
Chardonnay
2002
$29.99
12.5%
Deepened gold color, closing in on amber, moderate translucency, the aged appearance prevents much loss at the rims. Right off the nose hits you with spoilt milk, baking dough, honey and more salty brine than minerality, alas, yes, it’s oxidized out the wazoo, caramel coats all the poached peach, apricot, pear scents, luckily it all lacks staying power. Full-bodied, flat-footed even though you can feel the acidity muffled beneath the oxidation. The most attractive elements are the white grapefruit, orange citrus and all but hidden stoniness, both curiously stronger as it warms. The honey, caramel, cake batter, dough all quite evident, the lactose not as vociferous. Some liveliness left in the step of the peach, pear, apricot, red apple fruit but no real “cut.” In the final analysis, it is not completely prematurely oxidized beyond basic enjoyment, yet, this is not why you age Chablis. 85 points
Campion
Monterey County, California
Santa Lucia Highlands
Pinot Noir
2001
$25.99
14.0%
Red brick to orange rust colored core, more scarlet red hues towards the rims, faded and aged, yet, in no way looking over the hill. You get pine, eucalyptus, honey in the nose with a fistful of caramel, really full and expansive, perfumed raspberry, red cherry, strawberry scents, firm presence allows it to cling to your nostrils, finally offers grass and earth, in the end best enjoyed for its persistent energy. Full-bodied, the tannins and acidity retain a consistent thrust. Juicy, almost concentrated dried fruit character, to the cranberry, pomegranate, papaya, red cherry fruit. Coated further by orange, lemon, white grapefruit sweetness. More sinewy grip through the finish, releases notes of cedar, incense, stony earth and some herbaceousness. Still has the aggressiveness of youth, shifts on you from start to finish. Grapes sourced from Sarmento Vineyard. 91 points
Lagrange, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1998
$34.95
13.0%
Unblemished purple core of unusual clarity, the rims show ruby to scarlet hues, only moderate visible aging. The nose breaks out first with wildflowers, cedar, pine and menthol, solid red currant, red cherry fruit scents and a brace of white citrus, equal parts leather and vanilla powder, caramel, no explosion here but more than satisfying enough. Medium-bodied, retains a strong tannic skeleton, however, has softened some with time. Concurrently, kept a light hard candy sweetness to the red cherry, currant, raspberry fruit which is not about to give up the fight, albeit closes up some with air exposure. Cedar, incense ash, grapefruit, violets, leather and a stoniness born of tannic power, it doesn’t necessarily drink like a pedigreed classified growth yet a good step or two above just a basic claret. Comes across like a good time to catch it in as much overall balance as you might get, but still a small window for further improvement. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot. 88 points
Cornerstone
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Beatty Ranch
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$57.99
15.3%
Minor ruby inflections to the basic purple core, ruby to garnet rims with slight orange embellishments, liquid clear and without any obvious blemishes. The nose has good lift but lacks a center and drifts as a result, the black currant, cherry, plum fruit dried out and without length, good accents of flowers, pine, menthol and orange peel, some cedar and that’s about it. Medium-bodied, obviously has lost a good deal of weight and heft, tannin still there but most of the rest has vacated the premises. Cedar, leather, orange peel, bark and grass take precedence, you almost don’t notice the weak grip in the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit. Citrusy notes reverberate through the finish. The sad thing is that the flavors and texture is all there, just without the fullness required to create a complete experience. Sour finish.
86 points
Belle Pente Wine Cellars
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Riesling
2000
$17.99
13.0%
Bronzed orange color, closer to amber than yellow, definitely showing its age, close to looking like apple cider, pools deeply into the glass. The nose presents some petrol and oil in addition to lemon custard, pie dough, cinnamon and the apple cider scents hinted at visually, pear and apricot too, clearly tiring but not dead just yet. Medium-bodied, the acidity had deadened and thus it lacks some of the life of its former self. The orange, lemon citrus sweet and concentrated. The petrol helps fill a gap or two. Maderized lightly, truncates the otherwise decently concentrated apricot, peach, pear fruit. It’s not necessarily the flavors which are the problem, more so a general lack of liveliness. The cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger spice helps as best it can. If the acidity was able to inject more verve into things this experiment would have turned out quite nicely. 84 points
Tremblay (Domaine des Iles), Gérard
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaudésir
Chardonnay
2000
$24.99
13.0%
Dark amber orange color, you almost expect to see an insect immobilized within it, translucent shimmer to it, for all the richness of its age the rims fade all but completely. Candied orange peel, brioche, croissant, honey, mint, poached pears and peaches, supremely prematurely oxidized, little stone or mineral or anything one might have arguably paid for. In the mouth it's full-bodied, flat with a somewhat dusty texture. No activity to the acidity. Pineapple, peach, nectarine apricot fruit cocktail. Sweetly concentrated orange, lemon juice, yet adds some sourness. All that sweet flaky dessert stuff in full effect. Feels so tired by the finish it makes you feel tired. Curse the heavens. 82 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1999
$65.99
13.0%
The purple core shades into opacity, has pushed what ruby there is out into the otherwise scarlet red rims, incipient orange hues. Caramel, butterscotch, vanilla pudding the nose make it clear the oak yet very present, juicy red currant, cherry, blackberry scents with noticeable firmness, orange peel, wet cedar, some menthol, does not show signs of advancement, even insofar as to suggest future development. Full-bodied, smooth and even with sufficient tannin to have to type the word, acidity much lower. Semi-sour edge to the well-ripened currant, cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit, lasts well into the finish. Zesty lemon, orange citrus. Touch leafy or twiggy, smoky kindling edge. Leather too, but then it simply starts to repeat itself. Another highly credible red wine that lacks distinctness, easy to throw back a few glasses but they won’t be memorable. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah. 89 points
Jota, La
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Selection
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$39.99
13.5%
Dull, blackish purple core, broad rims of cough syrup red, burnt orange, the liquid has excellent clarity, bottle shoulder shows little sediment residue. Pleasingly semi-rustic character to the nose, pine needles, anise seed, mountain scrub, poor earth and some animal hide, pungent lift and really fills the nostrils, the red currant, cherry, black raspberry scents penetrate well, more verve than juiciness. Medium-bodied, lost a little bit of weight but likely leaner and firmer for it. The lower alcohol may contribute to its freshness, the acidity and tannin come through clearly without adopting too strong a presence. Hard candy sweetness to the raspberry, red cherry, cranberry, almost strawberry fruit, unusually “red” in feel. Pine, menthol, orange peel, pressed flowers add to its prettiness yet the cedar, sandalwood incense, merde, earth, stone, leather, elements carry the day. Flattens a touch through the finish, however, this is an enjoyable aged Cab close to its apex. 91 points
Maxwell
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Ellen Street
Shiraz
1998
$32.99
14.0%
Blackish purple core, not much vibrancy but has attractive clarity, the rims all about burnt orange and brick red hues, here there’s good intensity. Deep, resonant nose of plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit with a touch of prune, mixes in milk chocolate, menthol, mandarin orange and mint accents, not incredibly complex, however, its gentle insistence and breadth massage your nostrils into a happy place. Full-bodied, drier than expected with a good deal of dusty tannic residue that initially stymies the concentrated prune, fig flavors as well as the fresher plum, blackberry, cherry fruit. But this is only momentary, by the mid-palate you get the full effect as well as a solid burst of zesty orange, white grapefruit citrus. The eucalyptus, menthol somewhat muddied, blends into a twiggy element with fallen dried leaves. Full impact through the finish, no loss of weight whatsoever. This noted, at this age, one would expect more development which leaves you questioning its eventual arrival. Still again, happy to drink this now and probably into the near future. 91 points
Cumulus Wines
New South Wales, Australia
Orange
Climbing
Merlot
2005
$15.99
13.5%
Clear scarlet to purple hued core, strong orange to red brick colored rims, unsure if it’s showing it’s age or what, not unattractive, the burnt look appeals. Smoky nose brimming with molasses, butterscotch, vanilla, caramel yet also with a damp animal fur, leather element, the fruit scents a weird mix of plum, blackberry with peach and white grapes, comes across as scattered all over the place. Medium-bodied, mostly soft and pliable but still gets classified as a vertebrate. Blacker plum, cherry, blackberry than raspberry here, nonetheless sour for it. The charred oak, smoke nuances remain, don’t necessarily help settle it into the palate, dill, molasses, caramel, a mess basically. The acidity has heft and the tannins not far behind, however, they can’t do much to channel things. No idea what the goal was here. (Screwcap: Stelvin) 83 points
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
1999
$50.00
14.8%
Clear deep purple color with a slight ruby tint, the rims now showing as much scarlet red as ruby, bottle shoulder has zero sediment adhered to it, generally youthful, vigorous appearance. While the plump plum, blackberry, black cherry persists along with molasses, maple syrup and eucalyptus, this is no fruit-driven nose, has shed weight and carved out more room for white grapefruit, brown dirt mud, green olives and tanned cowhide, still not quite “sauvage” and as the primary aspects recede the alcohol more noticeable. Medium-bodied, not as round as it once was with more sinew and gristle to the body. Past the mid-palate dries out enough to see the obvious contrast. It’s not that the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit has faded per se, but it has lessened enough to bring the tannin more to the fore. Menthol, blood orange, white grapefruit, wildflowers stronger than any caramel or molasses elements. Turns woody and leafy at the end, adds to the mild astringency. This wine really has you hedging your bets, no clear signals. It could be in a dumb phase with a glorious rebirth ahead, it could be on the way down. Suppose the biggest question is will sufficient fruit last to see palpable tertiary flavors gain traction? We shall have to find out. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2010
Grand Corbin-Despagne, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1998
$19.99
12.5%
Some purple in the core, segues quickly to a vivid orange/red brick color, remains fairly youthful in appearance. The nose shows wet forest floor, tree bark, woody as in wood not oak, orange peel, moderate life in the red cherry, red currant scents, pressed flowers, there’s a great deal of swirling action in the nostrils yet no depth of scents. Medium-bodied, stays tannic and mostly unyielding, has kept a credible amount of cherry, currant, raspberry fruit but the tannin will win this race every time. The white grapefruit, orange citrus dry and full of pith. The leafy, woody qualities do not subside, cloak the fruit. Hasn’t really evolved into anything laudatory and leaves you with the impression it won’t. Nothing undrinkable but not some great hidden value either. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 86 points
Vacheron et Fils, Domaine
Loire, France
Sancerre
Pinot Noir
2005
$25.99
13.0%
Light, clear violet-ruby core with brighter ruby rims, this albeit showing some age. The nose is on the rough and tumble side, the merde takes time to blow off, then dried grapefruit peel/pith, flowers peek out some, more animal fur, the reductive notes linger, tart red cherry, raspberry scents punch quickly then dance backwards, then it all blows away. Light-bodied, very acidic with twig, bark, tree leaf, grass elements, your mouth starts puckering during the attack. Pomegranate, raspberry, red cherry fruit tart and fierce. By the mid-palate the tannin clamps down. Stony but too herbaceous for even any earthiness to show. The white grapefruit sucks more moisture out of your cheeks, echoes of lemon. Simply too attenuated to find an oasis of enjoyment. 84 points
Leroy, Domaine Richard
Loire, France
Anjou
Les Noëls de Montbenault
Chenin Blanc
2005
$44.99
13.5%
Semi-flat golden color, more concentration in the core with transparent rims, mildly layered. The nose drips with poached pear, peach, apricot scents, too wet to be dried fruit per se, dewy flowers, fresh honey glaze, tangerines and mineola oranges, extremely primary with only a light touch of chalk and stone, fullness lasts some time. Medium-bodied, were it not for the broad, dampening acidity it would be too sweet along with obvious oxidative notes. Honeyed bread, croissant crumbs, coconut flakes next to appear, more of the sugary, poached apricot, nectarine, peach, pear flavors. Sour zest to the tangerine, lime citrus, which in turn teases out a few herbaceous notes. Somewhat wooly, has stream pebbles but not especially minerally. Still too plump and youthful to judge the chance of serious tertiary development. 89 points
Maxwell
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Lime Cave
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$34.99
14.0%
Black core, you only get some purple nearer to the rims, which are mostly scarlet red with strong ruby remnants, the liquid surprisingly clear given the amount of sediment around the bottles shoulders. Strong Cab nose of cedar, leather, barnyard dirt, bell pepper and grass, does a good job of mixing in eucalyptus, orange zest and a late blooming floral musk, the cherry, red currant, persimmon fruit scents have both a taut form and thrust, overall the nose suggests a decanting might have been in order. Medium-bodied, even firmer here with ample tannin, this in spite of the gritty mouth texture which appears to contradict the visual assessment. Same basic profile as in the nose, leads with pencil lead, cedar, leather, stone dust and merde, the lingering bell pepper conjures up the idea of Cabernet Franc. Nice pucker to the orange, lemon citrus. Eucalyptus, mint and licorice try to add sweetness with mixed results. The same for the currant, cherry, boysenberry, pomegranate fruit, no problem weight or length-wise, just can’t soften the blow sufficiently. Big kudos for how the primary material has stood the test of time and how tertiary flavors have come about, simply wears you out after a couple of glasses. 89 points
Fichet, Jean-Philippe
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Les Gruyaches
Chardonnay
2002
$39.99
13.5%
More golden amber coloration, shiny surface with translucent layering below to fill the glass, not much hue loss at the rims. Mature nose of flaky, honeyed pastries, tangerine and lime zest, sweet baking dough, cinnamon, nutmeg, butterscotch, yet does not come across as prematurely oxidized at all, poached peaches, apricots and pears simply seem concentrated by age, mint and flowers, nose leaves you with the impression that it could knit the oak in further over the short-term. Medium to full-bodied, here the oak toast really comes out, mesquite smoke, caramel, butterscotch, fried fresh butter, however, never too sweet and presents itself with a measure of class. This also heightens the keen edge of the lime and orange citrus. Tongue only starts to slightly get dry well into the finish. The pear, red apple, apricot, peach fruit has kept most of its juiciness. Could become more streamlined in a positive sense, an argument could be made that the cork was popped too early. 91 points
Robin, Domaine Gilles
Rhône, France
Crozes Hermitagev
Cuvée Albéric Bouvet
Syrah
1999
$15.99
13.0%
Clean, trim cough medicine red influenced purple core, the medicinal to dried blood hues extend through the rims, just a hint of ruby left, cleanliness keeps it appealing. The nose is at once light and concentrated, that is, anything that is left is tighter and what’s gone is gone, licorice, orange marmalade, wildflowers, cherry to raspberry hard candy, cracked boot leather, no length problems with enough bite to perk things up. Medium-bodied, does shed weight as it moves towards the finish. Dry, not as tannic as once, however, the acidity still capable of a zing or two. Tart cranberry, blackberry, red cherry fruit wiry and has life throughout. Lost weight allows more herbaceousness to show, thankfully the minerally earth, tanned animal hide there to dampen this. White grapefruit zest could wake the dead. Almost more mouth perfume than tongue-based flavor. But, technically, this is always the case. Anyway, it is on the way down but not near there yet, one for those who have a severe jones for older Rhône Syrah. 89 points
Trevor Jones
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Dry Grown
Shiraz
1998
$31.99
13.7%
Super-clean red-ruby to violet in color, sparkly glass presence, more crimson to blood red around the rims but colorwise middle-aged in look. Svelte nose of clear contours, very direct and focused delivery of the forest scrub, wildflowers, pine needles, orange zest and fresh boot leather, any oak knit in with little toast and vanilla powder the most present, the red cherry, raspberry, boysenberry scents have a stripe of apricot with them, nothing jammy or overdone. Medium-bodied, the mouth-puckering acidity sets the tone from the first sip, lots of energy but no wasted movement. Sour raspberry, red cherry, cranberry, pomegranate fruit vibrates all the way through the finish, ably accompanied by white grapefruit, orange zest. Surprisingly you welcome the advent of toffee and caramel accents as a softening influence. Keeps that outdoorsy, forest character, the leather here verges on animality. Electric, texturally hard to get it to stop. Hate to be lame, could be a ringer from “that other place.” 92 points
David Bruce
Monterey/San Luis Obispo Counties, California
Central Coast
Petite Sirah
1998
$18.99
12.0%
Spotless core of diminished purple with brick red, semi-opaque, the rims more transparent with burnt orange, blood red hues and a vestige of ruby left. The nose has been pared down to its most essential message, merde, fallen tree bark, white grapefruit, pine cones, gusty lift to the sour cranberry, red cherry, raspberry scents, while it’s leanly muscular, the power of the fruit not to be doubted. Medium-bodied, as in the nose there is not an ounce of fat on its skeleton, doesn’t need much sustenance to go months alone in the wilderness. Driven mainly by white grapefruit, mandarin orange zest and pressed flowers, parched earth and back road pebbles. Herbaceous in a manner which only adds to the energy. Here the tart cherry, cranberry, raspberry fruit starts strong and drops a level or two before finishing, however, nowhere near shot. The acidity retains the powers of youth, the tannin perhaps more subdued. An experiment that paid off, loss of fruit more than compensated by tighter structure and added complexity. Whew. (Composite Cork) 89 points
San Leonardo, Tenuta
Trentino, Italy
Vallagarina
Blend
1999
$69.99
13.0%
Deep purple bruise color of full opacity, rims display an orange-red brick coloration, however, overall doesn’t look that advanced. Nice metallic, iron-tinged edge to the nose, broad white grapefruit pith element, then merde, dried grass, wildflowers, witch hazel, white pepper, absolutely cuts quite the figure in your nostrils, in addition unfolds richly ripe black cherry, currant, plum scents, nothing simple about it and not avoiding any essential part which might offend some. Medium to full-bodied, effortlessly spreads across the palate with you hardly noticing. Acidity here more of a driving force than tannin, firm and well-shaped without ever getting dry. White grapefruit, orange zest, pepper, wood kindling smoke, incense, witch hazel, pine, highly intriguing array of flavors. Prune, raisin veneer to the cherry, plum, currant fruit, could see it concentrating further but not necessarily getting sweeter. Delicious to drink now but might have some upside left too. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot. 92 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Monte Bello
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$119.99
13.0%
Little bit of murk to the dark purple core, crimson to brick red rims, surface shine remains youthful. Eucalyptus, vanilla, dill and caramel give the nose a yet youthful appeal, grill smoke sweetens the cherry, blackberry, black currant scents further, retains a strong primary appeal without many tertiary nuances developed. Medium-bodied, smooth and fluid, the tannins suave and only act when necessary. That sweet smokiness at the fore here, pine, eucalyptus, dill and vanilla replicate the nose, only drier here. The currant, plum, cherry fruit maturing, in some ways concentrating, in others drying out some. Balanced throughout, soft mouth feel makes for a seductive experience, whatever flavors may not be at their fullest is made up for by the texture itself. Has upside, just not sure for how long. 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 91 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1998
$75.00
13.0%
Clean deep purple core of solid opacity, the rims remain more ruby than brick red, youthful if middle-aged at worst. Dense plum, cherry, black currant fruit in the nose still, vanilla, honey and caramel, candied oranges and lilacs, primary yet curiously lifeless like it’s narcoleptic or something. Full-bodied, round and plush with both weight and flavors lasting through the finish. Not to say the tannin is weak, not the case, it’s dry when it should be and nowhere near sugary. Ripe fullness evident in the plum, blackberry, cherry fruit, bigger initial presence than in the nose before tapering off. Leather, bark, orange and lemon peel, any oak more or less knit into the whole by now, traces of caramel and toffee. You have no qualms finishing the glass and accepting the next one, it just doesn’t impress you as an especially complex wine of individual character. Nor does it leave you thinking it possesses such an elevated future. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Sangiovese, 10% Syrah. 90 points
Pride Mountain
Napa Valley, California
Reserve Claret
Blend
1998
$110.00
14.1%
Opaque purple core, however, not overly saturated and bright, some black and red mixed in, the rims mainly brick red and crimson rather than ruby. Very perfumed, floral nose with milk chocolate, butterscotch notes fitting in around the abundant plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit scents, hint of mint and cedar before it blows away, not as oaky as expected, however, not as developed either. Medium-bodied, fairly smooth with a mild tannic grit and dryness. There’s more of a sugary feel in the plum, blackberry, raspberry fruit, as if it was “jammy” in its youth. Flowers, tangerine citrus, licorice most evident next, chocolate, caramel and toast have leveled off, as in the nose. Hard to gauge if tertiary notes are still in the offing or this is just not the wine that is ever going to provide them. Does tighten a touch on the finish. Enjoyable enough, but you do want more for the price. 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. 90 points
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
1998
$28.99
13.0%
Basic purple core enlivened by strong red brick to burnt orange hues, clear and unblemished with minor signs of aging, if that, much surface reflectivity. Garrigues, leather, cedar, orange peel, dark chocolate powder, black earth unfold in the nose, the plum, black cherry, currant fruit scents trail behind the rest, digs up a pleasing metallic zing before finally dissolving. Medium-bodied, comes across as starting to dry out, an unexpected turn of events, tannins remain powerful, perhaps the culprit, The plum, currant, boysenberry fruit has its ups and downs, the white grapefruit to lemon citrus more consistent start to finish. The dryness does not allow the florality to expand, by the same token, it does give it firmness and shape. Leather, merde, aged cedar, fallen forest wood add to its rustic character. Honestly leaves you guessing whether it is shot or just still sleeping. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder unspecified percentages of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto. 88 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile
Riesling
1997
$35.00
13.0%
Almost bronzed gold color, possesses a translucent shimmer which deepens the hue, surface shine is good, trails off towards the rims, solid block in the glass. The nose comes up with a good deal of petrol, oil smoke notes, however, there is a sort of overall lifelessness going on, pressed orange peels and older potpourri scents, raw pie dough, licorice, not getting much out of the peach, nectarine, apricot fruit scents, has “weight” in the nostrils though. Full-bodied, dry attack with a dusty mouth feel which slowly dissipates as the sweetness of the peach, apricot, nectarine, green melon fruit asserts itself, Here the sweet dough and honey notes help to buttress the fruit. Tangerine, pink grapefruit, lime citrus adds sweet ’n’ sour appeal. The acidity slightly dull but can still hold its own. Attractive to drink today, nothing “simple” about it, but wouldn’t hold on to other bottles much longer. 89 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1997
$65.00
13.0%
Blackish purple core of near full opacity, strong bricking around the rims, cough syrup red with a metallic orange tinge, clarity average. Sweet garden herbs, orange peel, black licorice, sandalwood, pressed flowers provide a pleasing background in the nose for the somewhat dry plum, cherry, blueberry scents, turns earthier the more it sits in your nostrils, splash of vanilla the only trace of oak. Medium-bodied, appears to have shed weight since its youth, tannin still active and able to coat the tongue. Red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit as tangy as sweet, this aided by noticeable white grapefruit, orange accents. A grassy, earthy side takes hold as it opens, further drying out the finish. That said, not short per se, sort grinds itself down on the tongue instead. Might be a little upside left, but seems to have more or less plateaued. 25% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Syrah, 25% Merlot. 89 points
Jota, La
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
16th Anniversary Release
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$77.99
13.9%
The purple core is semi-opaque, provides sufficient visibility to at least see through the scarlet red rims, only mildly showing its age. Ripe, juicy nose of vanilla, milk chocolate, butterscotch and then concentrated blackberry, cherry, red currant fruit and eucalyptus, mountain scrub and wildflowers, with additional airtime the oak scents head to the fore. Full-bodied, tannins burred down and acidity under house arrest as well. Extraction in the plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit not to be doubted. Noticeably smooth with the tannins and acidity both tamed and at heel. Orange peel, pine, floral dew, vanilla and chocolate powder blow through. Tacky grip as it progresses through the mouth. The citrus really elevates through the finish. Leaves you happy to have pulled the cork if not ecstatic. 90 points
Calon-Ségur, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1995
$58.99
12.5%
Mild ruby touch to the purple core, opaque, further out you get thick crimson to brick red shades, still a great deal of primary saturation, brooding glass presence. The nose focuses on yet plump plum, cherry, red currant fruit, cedar, driftwood, garden herbs and orange peel, turns earthy and minerally and starts to close in on itself, swift floral lift before it’s gone. Medium-bodied, broad shouldered and moves away from you every time you try to engage it in dialogue. Vanillin oak, cedar, kindling wood, cracked leather give it credibility but the currant, cherry, plum fruit nowhere near spreading out. Orange peel with a suggestion of white grapefruit. Stony with a dried powder aspect. You sense its pedigree from the first step but there’s no “give” here nor immediate peg of pleasure on which to hang your hat. Any left will sleep for some time and hope for the best. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Grenouilles
Chardonnay
2000
$42.99
13.0%
Extremely deep golden color, were it not for the brilliant reflectivity you’d think it was way past its prime, slight diminishment along the rims, the intensity of the hue holds your gaze. The nose offers a substantial amount of seashell, stone bits, lemon glaze, the honey and breadiness is not out of control but definitely there, pleasing floral dimension, the apricot, pear, red apple fruit has held on credibly. Medium-bodied, moderately dry attack, the acidity more a dusting of the palate than a vibrant presence. Lemon, tangerine pith active and pairs well with that stone dust, shale sort of thing. Really only at the end does the wine betray any sign of premature oxidation, some flaky dough notes and a slight dulling of the tongue. Shows no palpable change after some time being open. Nice.
89 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Bougros
Chardonnay
2002
$46.99
13.0%
Deeper gold to light amber coloration suggests some age, transparent with some light-bending shimmer, holds its own in the glass. Mineral and stone dust in the nose retain credibility and lend some smokiness, lemon and tangerine scents a blend of sweet and sour, floral, slight overripeness in the apricot, peach, pear fruit, friendly and approachable, yet not flat and not showing anything but a slight brush of honey or baking dough. Medium-bodied, here there’s broader space taken by semi-oxidative notes but nothing truly disturbing at this juncture, simply softens the edges. Peach, apricot, pear, yellow apple fruit deep and long. Orange, lemon citrus more juice than zest. The acidity comes across as sluggish, although dry enough to find shape and moderately erect bearing. The stone, streamwater, mineral component adequate, can’t really give it more props than that. Overall, drinks like a nice AOC bottling not a grand cru. Which, typically, is not the best thing. 88 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Oberhäuser
Brücke
Spätlese Goldkap AP #17
Riesling
2000
$30.00
8.0%
Fat yellow gold color with the split of transparency and translucency a wine of its age should arguably have, faded rims, absolutely looks the part of a well-aged German Riesling. Golden honey, molasses and tangerine juice come close to overshadowing the petrol in the nose, oily with a reduced to dried fruit nature in the apricot, pear, yellow apple, mango fruit, the floral dimension expands as it warms, not much lift more inclined to soak into your nostrils. Medium-bodied, has a syrupy texture at first before the acidity dries it out some and then the raw dough and bread shades soak up some excess sugar. Bright, lively pink grapefruit, tangerine, lemon citrus a major focal point. Minor suggestion of grassiness with some streamwater, stone allusions as well. Solid core of apricot, papaya, mango, nectarine fruit that has both sweetness and contour. The length of the finish could be questioned, and there you get some lactose notes, still there’s always the option of refilling your glass. 91 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Barbara County, California
Grenache
2003
$38.99
15.2%
Blackish purple core leading into cough syrup red and flat reddish magenta further out, mostly opaque and has the appearance of an older wine. Earth and grass make a big initial impression in the nose, candied orange peel followed on by jammy raspberry, strawberry fruit and a strong raisin, dried fruit character, licorice, lose oomph over time allowing the alcohol to become more present. Medium-bodied with a heavier bottom and little lift, this bottle definitely showing signs of drying out, not too much life left in the red cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit. The orange, white grapefruit more dried pith than anything else. Garden herbs, anise and general leafiness pervade. The tannins don’t clamp down but certainly coat the tongue, acidity curiously absent. While it does open up a touch with air time, still does not reach the point where there’s credible depth through the finish. Enjoyable in a simple sense but heading towards the end. 86 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2010
Three Hills
Western Australia, Australia
Margaret River
Charles Andreas
Blend
1999
$29.99
14.5%
Black to purple bruise colored core, some ruby left in the otherwise crimson red rims, little sign of anything but fine sediment. In the nose the cherry, blackberry scents are drying out some, more cedar, sandalwood, dried orange peels and flower petals, very vague oak toast, manages a decent perfume before completing its short existence. Medium-bodied, here there’s more life left in the blackberry, black cherry, plum flavors, albeit the tannin still youthful and drying. Also apt to outlive the fruit at this point. The orange, white grapefruit component has some kick, more obvious toastiness which adds the gritty texture. Actually, appears to have better acidic zing through the end than one might expect. Nice wine, and honest, on the downward slope, alas. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22.5% Merlot, 22.5% Cabernet Franc, trace amounts of Malbec, Petit Verdot. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2010
Phelps, Joseph
Napa Valley, California
Insignia
Blend
1997
$110.00
13.8%
Dusky purple core, opaque but nowhere near black, easy crimson to brick red rims, very lively and not showing much age. Wet cedar, damp earth, slight metallic ring, followed on by milk chocolate, toffee, the currant, cherry fruit remains firm yet pliant, develops some florality but it’s really still densely packed or not going to unwind. Medium-bodied with a good deal of tannin that cakes the tongue, as well as join up with oaky vanilla powder, cocoa powder and various other dry substances. The plum, black currant, cherry fruit solid if not stolid. While it has credible structure, doesn’t seem to be pointing it in any given direction. Its weight and momentum throws you back on your heels, after that you may not notice what actually gets delivered. Opens to a point, just throws you back. All things considered, you might not want to push it too far more. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. 89 points
Banfi, Castello
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
1997
$49.99
13.0%
Semi-flat purple core, the clarity only evident through the burnt orange to crimson rims, about average surface shine. The nose has a bruiser’s demeanor, slugs its way in there without much of a plan as to do next, plum, cherry scents avoid pruney notes, strong orange peel and floral musk, the sweet oak appears to have knit in, shows little sign of positive evolution towards something not present in its youth. Medium-bodied and has noticeably lost some weight, even now it’s got a jiggle though. The acidity is slight and the tannin isn’t much better. The plum, cherry, currant fruit remains centerstage, Orange peel, floral fragrance, too dry for the oak to sustain caramel or vanilla flavorings. Maybe shows some cedar. Has become muddied over the years, good as a “red wine” but little here expresses Brunello. Which one supposes is why one laid down the fidy in the first place. 88 points
Pride Mountain
Sonoma County, California
Cabernet Franc
2000
$52.00
14.1%
Slight film to the red-orange brick influenced purple core, lots of sediment caught during the decant, crimson rims show only moderate aging. In the nose while caramel, butterscotch pave the way, the floor is ceded to incense musk, cedar, orange peel, mountain scrub shades alongside somewhat diminished plum, currant, cherry scents, nice because now it has to fight for your attention rather than just expect it, at times you almost imagine bell pepper. Medium-bodied, manages to stay upright with little evidence of acidity or tannin, except a pulverized dustiness. Flowers, orange citrus and menthol breathe life into otherwise moribund black cherry, currant, blackberry fruit. Heavy butterscotch, caramel, buttered popcorn, subsides some at the end. What’s kind of most interesting is how it shifts, at times pedestrian, at times catches your fancy. That said, easy to say there’s no real upside left. 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot. 88 points
Cornerstone
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Cornerstone Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$79.99
15.6%
The core remains a deep purple in hue, rims about equal parts magenta and brick red, not especially older looking, good surface shine. Nice Cabernet profile in the nose, black currant and cherry fruit, cedar, caramel, kindling smoke, hint of old potpourri musk, not that complex nor longlived but satisfying in a direct, guileless manner. Medium-bodied, a touch faded, loses its grip through the finish. Tannins remain dusty yet no longer in the driver’s seat. The cedar, sandalwood, potpourri here met by a metallic edge, along with tomato skins, inhibits inner mouth perfume. Through the first half no problem with the plum, currant, cherry fruit, deep and not too sweet, were there more length you’d likely get prune notes. You can tell it’s a thoughtfully made wine but at the same time the subtleties do not compensate for the fact it’s like four times more expensive than it should be. 87 points
Highlands
Napa Valley, California
Rutherford
Hozhoni Vineyard
Syrah
2003
$23.99
13.2%
Dark purple core, excellent clarity but opaque, dark red-magenta, plays the part of a middle-aged wine well. Sandalwood, cedar, driftwood, some oak spice but nothing overt, the plum, cherry scents touched lightly by prune accents, burst of floral musk, very subtle meaty notes, balance and reserve its most compelling aspect. Medium-bodied, quite acidic, helps it remain refreshing, especially given its age. At first there’s a good deal of butterscotch, caramel popcorn going on but as it opens this mostly dissipates. Strong white grapefruit presence. Tart red raspberry, cherry, cranberry fruit, while not deep per se in no danger of fading, lasts fully through the finish. At the end you get a sense of the pulverized tannin residue and there’s visual evidence of sediment on the bottle’s neck. Tastes like “cool climate” Syrah, has a leanness and sense of direction over trying to cram as much fruit in as possible. Strikes you as an overachiever, got as much out of the grapes as nature would allow. 88 points
Pavillon-Mercurol (Stéphane Cornu), Domaine du
Rhône, France
Crozes Hermitage
Syrah
2001
$11.99
13.0%
Filmy but not necessarily throwing sediment, dull reddish purple core, further out there’s strong bricking with lots of orange and yellow hues. The nose has the wet clumpy dustiness of many older wines, dry but sticky, stewed tomatoes and metallic notes there, yet, recede before plum/prune, currant fruit scents, flowers and tilled brown earth and cracked leather, fair amount of pungency yet. Medium-bodied, the tannins have been crushed to a pulp which lends it a dusty texture and there’s insufficient acidity to give it kick. Allowing for this, the core of plum, prune, fig, currant, blackberry fruit makes a good showing of it. Grapefruit pith and faded flowers next, some underbrush, not much suggesting a “sauvage” nature. Does dry out a little at the end, however, for a closeout at $7.56 wholesale in December 2009, damn good value. 88 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1996
$55.00
13.0%
Clear scarlet-purple core, carefully poured no sediment showing, strong brick red around the rims with a tinge of orange, looks aged but not appreciably so. The nose has gained in complexity and has a loosely knit feel, pine, orange peel, rosemary, basil herbs, licorice, as much fig, date and raisin as cherry and blackberry, more composure than flash, has length but not long per se. Medium-bodied, the tannin has been ground down to a fine powder, however, the acidity can put a charge in your mouth. Potpourri, pine, licorice and sweet herbs frame the attack, there’s dried fruit concentration to the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit but not the sweetness for prune or raisin notes. After this, the orange, white grapefruit citrus elevates. Some leafy, woody accents, not earthy. It does stumble a bit through the finish, however, it deserves kudos for representing itself in a mature, collected manner befitting its age. 25% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Syrah, 25% Merlot. 91 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Hommage à Georgette Trimbach
Pinot Gris
1996
$59.99
14.0%
Deep golden color resists turning amber, clear with a faint gauziness, holds on very credibly through the rims, looks “middle aged plus.” Beautifully pungent nose, powerful in its maturity, pineapple, papaya, nectarine, apricot fruit in full control, thick floral musk, spoonfuls of fresh honey, mint leaf, gentle smokiness a tickle of minerality, nothing here suggests being over the hill nor oxidation of any sort, lasts effortlessly. Medium-bodied, finely balanced with the acidity like a chaperone, making sure everyone behaves yet at times looks the other way during slow dances. Ginger, cinnamon spice along with honey and glazed lemon peels add sparkle to the attack, leading into a floral lift. The latter relieves much weight and sweetness in the pineapple, pear, nectarine, apricot fruit, not as tropical here as in the nose. Streamwater, washed pebbles glisten, not one for a metallic edge. Tightens its weave through the finish, pushing forward for a few more yards. Spectacular today, if this bottle is representative, quite a few years ahead. 94 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2010
Bürklin-Wolf, Weingut Dr.
Pfalz, Germany
Ruppertsberger
Gaisböhl
Spätlese Trocken AP #46
Riesling
1998
$38.99
13.0%
Crystal clear, vibrant amber gold in color, has held onto a slight green tinge, the rims do lose some hue intensity. The nose is aggressive and forceful with pineapple, guava, nectarine fruit accompanied by mandarin orange, white grapefruit, lemon citrus, displays a mint or anise edge, touch of sauna stone smoke and some rubber tire, overall just settles in there like it has the deed and you’re the squatter. Medium-bodied, dry and acidic in a powdery manner. This conditions the zestiness of the grapefruit, lemon citrus, ratchets it up ten levels. The pineapple, papaya, nectarine, peach fruit zings you big time. As it warms the herbaceousness grows, even suggests bell pepper. Mineral smoke consistent, solid role player. Clenches through the mid-palate, not sure if a product of youth or forever to be bunched up in nature. Leaves you unsure which, better to simply take it at face value. 90 points
Maculan
Veneto, Italy
Dindarello
Moscato
2006
$11.99
11.5%
Presents a washed out golden core, transparent with moderate dullness, manages to hold what hue is there through the rims. Poached apricot, pear swirl in the nose first, honey glaze, brown sugar, candied tangerine and lime, mint, floral musk, just relentlessly assaults your nostrils, seemingly immortal presence there. Medium-bodied, not as heavy as expected, all bright honey, orange marmalade, butterscotch and crème brûlée. Very fluid, glides given dessert wine level thickness, mid-tempo progression. Lots of acidity to keep it lively. The mint, violets and gregarious apricot, peach, nectarine, papaya, red apple fruit positively glistens. Caramel lifts through the finish. Effortless presentation. 375 ml bottle. 91 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Valmur
Chardonnay
2000
$45.99
13.0%
Clear light gold color, shiny and not betraying much age, only minor hue loss around the rims. Strong nose with muscular penetration, thick lemon peel, stone slabs and streamwater, favors rose petal led florality over crisper minerality, fully ripened peach, apricot, pear scents are completely at the height of their powers, overall maintains purity and clarity with only the merest suggestion of honey or bread. Medium-bodied, fairly loosely knit and open, spreads itself gently across the palate. The florality is even higher here with sweetly zesty orange, lemon citrus. The acidity is very fine, dries in dabs rather than go on the attack. More minerally here, even if this relents in favor of chalk and white stone powder. Nicely ripe pear, red apple, peach fruit. Just beautiful. 94 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Clos
Chardonnay
2000
$49.95
13.0%
Reflective straw gold in color, transparent, especially at rims devoid of hue, no real sign of aging. Semi-tight nose, almost all stone, chalk, sparkles with very fine mineral dust and lemon pith, gets close to white grapefruit, even the floral aspect is crisp, touch of fruit pit to the pear, peach scents, shade of pineapple too, turns a touch gentler as it dissolves. Full-bodied, muscular and arguably somewhat young. Dry the acid, not biting, like a big old sponge. Here you get a short burst of honey and dough which suggests a truncated future. Right now, though, lemon, orange grapefruit in the fore, violets. Less of a metallic edge to the minerals, more water and stone. Stays on a clearly demarcated path start to finish. Capable of improvement but it’s a roll of the dice if that improvement wins the race against the evil spectre of premature oxidation. 92 points
Amirault, Yannick
Loire, France
Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil
Les Malgagnes
Cabernet Franc
2005
$21.99
14.0%
Aggressively opaque purple core, not gonna try to go black, just be as dark as purple can get, super-saturated red-magenta rims, sleek surface. No avoiding the merde and peanut shells in the nose upon first opening, over time stabilizes into consistent plum, cherry scents, garrigues and wildflowers, cocoa powder, minimal herbaceous or bell pepper shades, beyond that funk built to please. Medium-bodied, has the tannic skeleton to create an impression of size which lasts beyond mere palate weight. Any white grapefruit or orange citrus sweet and zesty. The currant, cherry, blackberry fruit not spectacular but certainly no slouch and there when you need it. Moderate stone, earth qualities but nothing close to grassy, mild dustiness at the end the most terroir you get. Not showing any glaring lacks yet needs to round up into something more than plump fruit and tannin. Odds seem to be in its favor to improve. 88 points
Jota, La
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Petite Sirah
1997
$38.00
14.1%
Smidge of red-ruby to the purple core, above average width to the crimson to brick red rims, no sign of sediment, spotless liquid. Vanilla ice cream and toasted coconut in the nose the oak calling card, the roastiness evokes grill fat, tanned belt leather, blends in wildflowers and dried mint, the blackberry, black cherry fruit scents sturdy but succinct. Medium-bodied, the tannin has mostly resolved, however, some grit to be found. While possessed of a hard candy sweetness, the blackberry, raspberry, cherry fruit does not quite last fully through the finish. Hence, there’s much more room for the vanilla powder, butterscotch, coconut and cocoa powder, a little too much. Earthy and leathery, less animality here, more herbaceous bite. The more you sip the more the white grapefruit to lemon citrus becomes apparent. Flavors notwithstanding, palate weight consistent to the end. More expressive when initially popped than an hour or so later, suggesting that Charlie Parker was right, now’s the time. 88% Petite Sirah, 12% Viognier. 88 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
1999
$51.99
13.0%
Opaque purple core, slightly dusky but little sign of anything but very fine sediment, the rims extra-dusky, crimson to brick red, hardly differs from the core. There’s a raw directness to the nose, not closed, yet doesn’t offer an extra word, displays ground grass powder, mineral dust, snappy raspberry and red cherry scents, white grapefruit, opens a little into floral perfume, more leather than anything gamey, ends with ash and yesterday’s charcoal dust. Medium-bodied, taut, more or less a laserlight show in the mouth, even in spite of the tannic powder coating the palate. The acidity slices the red currant, pomegranate, cranberry fruit to slices. The white grapefruit, lemon citrus glitters. The herbaceousness is off the hook but not offensive. Minerals, olive pit, graphite, cowhide and saddle leather. Merde like a closed bag full, builds and builds. The fruit really pulls through at the end, lifts dramatically. 92 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2000
$37.99
12.5%
Small purple core with a medicinal red edge, very clear if dull brick red rims, noticeably transparent. Fair degree of flatulence in the nose but the very strong lift releases the pressed flowers, orange/grapefruit citrus, rawhide and damp earth notes, has a nice hard candy nature to the red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit scents, you get a meadow, field grass and scrub brush aspect yet not “green,” ends with a rising smokiness. Medium-bodied, the acidity has enough intensity to keep it alive in the mouth even as the flavors struggle to reach the finish. The cranberry, raspberry fruit on the sour side, contributes to the pucker factor. Conversely, the grapefruit, lemon citrus not as invasive as expected. Give credit to the florality, fights to the end. A honey or molasses aspect provides respite at the end. Decidedly gets better with air time, starts to get on the same page while also gaining additional clarity. 89 points
Jasmin, Domaine Patrick
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$39.99
12.5%
High degree of blackness to the purple core, appreciably gains in transparency closer to the rims, dried blood red with an incipient touch of zinc orange. Showing a lot of funk in the nose, peanut shells and farts, hard to get past it, sour mandarin orange, cocoa powder nuances blend with stone shards (no dust), the blackberry to cherry scents semi-angular, wildflowers and licorice help it spread out some, however, never really separates into clear elements. Medium-bodied, has a firmer core than expected and achieves both balance and youthful vigor. Leather, animal fur, not quite “foxy” but close. Tannin percolates steadily but it’s the acidity which really throws a punch. The currant, cranberry, raspberry fruit erect but not able to outlast the structure to the finish. Pink grapefruit, tangerine citrus has a sweetening presence. Heavy on stones, minerals as it opens and the fruit recedes. Burnt kindling smoke present but not woody. At times, a bit too much going on, even given its bound-up state. Needs tome, even with a so-so showing today one believes the fruit will last over the longer haul. 89 points
Petaluma
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Hanlin Hill
Riesling
2006
$11.99
13.0%
Super clean simple gold color, high degree of surface reflectivity with plenty of light bending below. Lots of firmness to the nose, admirably deep rubber accents alongside lemon peel, wet slate and chalk, the floral dimension softens things but there’s not much thrust in the peach, apricot fruit scents to team up here, very good length but not that much breadth. Full-bodied, sets itself squarely in your mouth like it wants you to try and knock it over. Here there’s a creaminess which is at odds with the rest, as if just when you think the acidity is going to hit you with 100 watts, it’s dimmed down to 75 watts. Stone, chalk, lemon peel and mineral water remain the primary focus but, again, needs more laser precision. The apricot, pear, apple fruit rises a notch, florality about the same. The rubber element not as obvious until the retronasal action kicks in. A nice expression of Aussie Riesling but nowhere near the apex. (Screwcap: Stelvin) 87 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Preuses
Chardonnay
2000
$73.99
13.0%
There’s a deepening towards amber at the core while still remaining mainly straw gold, looks like a maturing wine yet the rims so empty you could get mixed signals, retains a touch of surface shine. Ever wary of premature oxidation, the nose does give you some honey and bread, however, and especially with air time, it recedes in favor of mint, pressed flowers and peach pits, powdery mineral dust lingers most as it fades away. Medium-bodied, as in the nose, the dough, croissant, honey glaze notes most evident when first opened and, if they don’t fade, other elements rise up to diminish this component. Lemon water, wet pebbles, chalk set easily, utilizes mint, rose petals to pretty things up a notch. The fruit close to absent, peach, apple, pear echoes. The acidity possesses its full strength and helps the wine stay on point. This wine was more impressive on release, that said, given the choice of popping it now or waiting longer, the former appears to be the correct choice. Happy with the outcome today. 91 points
Alternatively you can continue on to read tasting notes on other older wines Hanes has put out of their misery.