Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in November 2009
Antinori, Piero
Tuscany, Italy
Tignanello
Blend
1997
$69.99
13.5%
Fairly clear, ruby-violet core, showing some red bricking towards the rims, looks middle-aged, decent shine across the surface. Cedar, balsamwood, rose petals, almost minty, lean tartness to the cherry, raspberry fruit scents, does a good job penetrating but then sort of trails off from there. Medium-bodied, dry and perhaps starting to fade a touch. Tannins grainy and overshadow the candied, if short, cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit. Cedar, kindling wood, earthy with some forest floor matter. It’s a nice aged wine but not exactly full of the life expected, can’t speak for the full duration of its life, provenance. The Cab comes through on the back end. Will have to see what future bottles hold. 80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 87 points
Léoville Barton, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
2002
$79.99
12.5%
Opaquely dark purple core, strong saturation in the fairly wide ruby rims, clean enough surface shine. Good thickness in the black cherry, currant, blackberry fruit, cedar, leather, twigs, dried oranges, decanted for an hour and not sure it helped, maybe hindered, either way closed up. Medium-bodied, fiercely tannic and bound up. Not to say that there isn’t a solid core of cherry, currant, plum fruit but it isn’t near showing it’s best. More lemon citrus here than orange, biting. Not green, however, has a woody, herbaceous streak. At no time does it feel like it is underfruited yet its angularity makes it hard to enjoy it. One of those “judgment deferred” wines, could turn into not a lot, could blossom into the proverbial white swan. 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc. 87 points
Kanonkop
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Pinotage
2005
$34.99
14.5%
Dark, if clear, crimson purple core, the brick red rims strongly hued, attractively reflective surface. Smoky minerality with animal fur and leather, the oak very toasty and fits in with the rest perfectly, never gets herbaceous but close, steady, if unspectacular plum, black cherry fruit scents, overall possesses a muscular lift. Medium-bodied, the acidity and tannin remain strong, however, also appear to have softened some over the last few years. Tangy grapefruit and tangerine citrus brings out a floral side. The oak toast has a light caramel aspect. More depth in the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit, sweetens things sufficiently that the smokiness takes on a grill smoke character. The minerality and earthiness lower here, the animality an underlying murmur. Has come into a happy place where it’s not as aggressive as in the past but still can’t not be itself. 90 points
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Bougros
Chardonnay
1999
$33.99
13.0%
Age-deepened gold color, orange metallic tinge, depth pushes through to the rims, average surface shine. The nose has a golden honey splashed pastry and bread element, however, stiffens a bit via the lemon/lime citrus, the oak remains more crisp toast than soft caramel, toffee, adds a light minerally snap to the green apple, pear, peach fruit scents, adds in pressed flowers and a spoonful of pickle brine, good overall pungency. Medium-bodied plus, leverages its weight fully across the palate, here the acidity gives a real charge to the lime, lemon citrus, very lively. The butterscotch and caramel likely more residual oakiness than signs of premature oxidation, that said, these flavors much more knit in than in the wine’s youth. Tasty green apple, peach, pear, nectarine fruit lasts completely through the finish. While lacking in minerality and stoniness, retains verve and a good deal of freshness. Taking this into consideration, remains a “slutty” type of wine and does the minimum required to be recognizably Chablis. 91 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2000
$32.99
13.0%
Noticeably darkened amber to gold color, right off the bat visually this is no young wine, while clear has a solidity younger wines often do not, hue holds all but completely through the rims, impressive even though arguably it shouldn’t look this old yet. The nose wastes little time raising the spectre of premature oxidation, flat dough, sour rye and old vanilla extract comes through, anise, baked apples and pears, honey glaze, only a touch of oil and shale or smokiness, Burgundian but not necessarily of Chablis. In the mouth it’s Medium-bodied, the acidity continues to be a factor and dries the whole out and also lends some bite. Floral water, sweet grapefruit and tangerine citrus and also that honey coated peach, apple, pear fruit make sure the acidity has its work cut out for it. The baked bread, flaky croissant nuances play a big role. No matter how you want to will it into sharp freshness, there’s a flat dullness which acts as a blanket on top. Just not what it should be, albeit no problem drinking it. 88 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Séchet
Chardonnay
1999
$34.99
13.0%
Plain gold in color, good depth and no visible signs of aging, fairly strong rims, solid appearance. The nose betrays some honeyed bread notes, however, fresh lemon peel and sauna stone smokiness average things out, the minerality still crackles some, licorice and rose petals, undercurrent of apricot, pear, yellow apple fruit, retains a powerfully compact profile, any lift muscular in nature. Medium to full-bodied, sets itself broadly in the mouth, the acidity reins in its more powdery side to keep mouth freshness. The lilac and rose-led florality a good partner to the lemon, orange zest. The minerality stays present both cold and as the wine warms. Fine core of apricot, peach, apple, pear fruit. Stone and streamwater notes also keep it smooth. Has softened over the years, however, easy enough to peg as Chablis and no signs of premature oxidation. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in October 2009
Chantemerle (A&F Boudin), Domaine de
Burgundy, France
Chablis
l’Homme Mort
Chardonnay
2000
$27.99
12.5%
Semi-flat yellow hay color, just beginning to deepen into the hues of an older wine, rims pretty much emptied out and transparent. The nose shows a deep bready, doughy quality that is glazed in honey otherwise it is very floral with lemon/lime citrus, banana, peach and apricot fruit, the minerality and wet stone aspects actually more present as it warms. Medium-bodied, as opposed to the nose, here in the mouth the acidity rides to the rescue and imbues it with satisfactory spine. The dryness and rigidity serve well to diminish the breadiness and honey and increase the sour zest in the lemon, lime citrus as well as pave the way for added mineral water, stone and chalk notes. More firmness in the peach, apricot, red apple fruit. Rose petals and a few sprigs of mint are nice garnishes. Solid throughout, not that much length but ends with a punctuation mark that isn’t an ellipsis. Glad this popped now rather than later, don’t want the palate joining the nose. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in September 2009
Baumard, Domaine des
Loire, France
Savennières
Clos du Papillon
Chenin Blanc
1997
$20.99
13.8%
Thickly layered golden appearance that just about suggests amber without reaching it, slight diminishing around the rims, sleek surface tethered to the solidity below. The nose comes across as slightly muffled but as it warms you get bigger portions of wet wool, fried lemon peels, pineapple, quince, apricot, green apple fruit, has developed that honey glazed breadiness, the minerally smokiness is there but one of the more hidden elements today. Full-bodied, here letting it warm absolutely helps. Plenty of tangy orange marmalade, lemon pulp to activate the palate, particularly as the acidity has a youthful breadth and vigor. There are some borderline oxidative notes and the raw dough accents clear enough. Lacks the simple juiciness for “tropicality,” however, the pineapple, papaya, green apple, star fruit flavors have the cut to make you notice them. At times comes up with a minty, floral swipe. More roundish stoniness than minerally bite. Finishes a little short, adding to the speculation that the wine is in a “chrysalis” stage and may have greater upside with more years of storage. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in August 2009
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Walker Vine Hill Vineyard
Syrah
2003
$50.00
15.4%
Vividly luminescent purple core, close to opaque but the crimson and ruby hues penetrate the middle nicely while keeping the rims saturated and still moderately youthful in appearance. Has taken on a very smoky nature in the nose, mesquite grill and barbecue notes match up with the blackberry, blueberry, red cherry fruit scents, light vanilla fudge notes about it for oak unless you’re counting the smokiness, the flower petals and orange peel for the most part stay in the background. Full-bodied but has definitely slimmed down, slight grainy coarseness to the texture, hard to finger the tannin, more likely residual woodiness. On the oak tip, there’s more vanilla, caramel, butterscotch here, proportionate to the tangy bite found in the red currant, red cherry, raspberry fruit. The orange citrus gets up off the couch here, wisps of white grapefruit as well. The smokiness has more of an edge. The fruit lasts through to the finish, however, does not leave you thinking it will hold on forever. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2009
Edge Wines
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
2006
$26.99
14.1%
Deep purple colored core, just enough blackness to achieve opacity, the fresh red brick to ruby hues pushed out towards the rims, average surface reflectivity. The nose interestingly starts off with a lot of lift, flowers and citrus blossom and mint before swirling back down to earth through blackberry, boysenberry, black cherry and a touch of green apple fruit scents, sweet smokiness present not like a grill, more like a bakery, sweet cedar and sandalwood tones, uncritically pleasing. Full-bodied, round and pliant, a gusher that fills your mouth up with ripe blackberry, blueberry, black cherry fruit and naught but a cursory burst of tannin to lend spine to it all. Vanilla custard, caramel, butterscotch and menthol follow the script, no toasty bite. Splish, splashes along without a care in the world. Here the cedar and tobacco woven into the background. Does produce a curveball sour note at the end, useful contrast for the primary components. A wine that will easily be recommended by three out of four doctors. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot. (Synthetic Cork: Supremecorq) 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2009
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2002
$32.99
13.0%
There’s pale semi-luminescent glow to the yellow coloration, light enough that you don’t sense much change towards the rims, average reflectivity, just kinda there in the glass. The nose presents some minerally, chalky smokiness, sufficient most of the time to rise above the raw pie dough and honey glaze, serves up some dried lemons and anise or mint, it’s odd how the apricot, pear, apple fruit seems an afterthought. Medium-bodied, the acidity has a weak handshake but at least doesn’t recoil, extends through the whole process. Some pie dough, caramel, honey and cinnamon, however, notes of lemon and even white grapefruit come through to stiffen the posture. The minerality recedes into a streamwater covering while yet remaining a pleasing component. More shape to the apricot, peach, pear fruit, even as it warms. Does not escape the hand of premox but acceptable if you simply enjoy the flavors of matured Chardonnay per se. Weight more than flavor clarity and intensity through the finish. 87 points
Killibinbin
South Australia
Langhorne Creek
Shiraz
2004
$14.99
14.5%
Blackish purple core, fully opaque, densely set rims of red ruby with a nod to dark magenta, adequate saturation no issue here. The nose shows a little alcoholic heat but really only because it’s not shoveling jammy fruit on you unnecessarily, lots of orange zest and eucalyptus, piney forest breeze, pleasing level of blackberry, boysenberry, cherry scents, some peanut shell notes, has a lot more grip than one might expect and, really, as a result ends clearly and succinctly. Full-bodied without being ponderous, more like the heaviness of a steel beam. The toffee, butterscotch and oak toast is very proportionate to the whole, embellishes the sweet and sour currant, cherry, persimmon fruit and does not dilute the message of the white grapefruit citrus. The acidity is quite nice and keeps the palate salivating. Molasses coated pork, wet leather and a pinch of merde keep you guessing. Through the denser flavors there’s a nice floral side too. Strikes the right level of complexity to not interfere with “fun” drinkability. (Screwcap: Stelvin)
89 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2009
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1998
$24.75
13.0%
Extremely dark purple colored core, not black, the opacity extends through the garnet, red magenta rims, not much sediment evident. Heavyset nose of leather, horsehide, tarry damp black earth, stone, orange zest, but, truly, it’s the robust milk chocolate and plum, currant, cherry fruit which holds your attention, overall much fatter presence than expected and more primary as well. Full-bodied, round, yet with some serious tannic punch, this without rising past a healthy grittiness to unwanted dominance. The plum, cherry, blackberry fruit has some sweetness left, aided by butterscotch and caramel popcorn oak notes. Slate, tea leaf, minerally earth and barnyardy animal hide provide depth, orange citrus and light floral notes fill out the rest. Not particularly long but what it accomplishes before that, it accomplishes well. The level of fruit left might tempt a few years more of aging to tease out additional tertiary nuances. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 90 points
Kongsgaard & Hatton
Napa Valley, California
Hudson Vineyards
Arietta
Blend
1997
$60.00
14.1%
Pitch black core fading to a medicinal red, serious bricking at the rims, certainly aged in appearance. The nose bursts with cedar, vanilla powder, Thai spices, tobacco ash and sweet smokiness, the mulberry, blackberry, black cherry scents are round and full but losing some density, this allows a shot of bell pepper and dried beef through. Medium-bodied, very spicy attack with substantial cedar, tea leaf, tobacco and mineral dust parts. The vanilla, caramel, coffee oak is grainy and dried out, not that much of a factor. The black currant, black cherry, boysenberry fruit again balances depth against a more snappy profile. No real vegetal nuances to it here, more woody as in general wood. Appears to be moving towards the back end of its best plateau but still squarely on it. 85% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot. 92 points
Ojai Vineyard, The
Santa Barbara County, California
Bien Nacido Vineyard
Pinot Noir
2003
$39.99
14.5%
Purple to red ruby colored core, starting to brick around the rims, overall it’s clear but not resplendently so. Smoky nose with cola, sour orange to lemon zest, blackberry, raspberry, blueberry fruit scents, plump and, as of yet, undeveloped. Full-bodied, very broad in scale, significant vanilla cream fudge, toffee, butterscotch yet dry enough that these oak notes don’t sink in too much. Comes across as more tannic than acidic. The blackberry, raspberry, cherry fruit skews more dark than red in complexion. Minor floral notes, you get more by way of lemon, orange pulp. Kind of jogs its way to the finish line, knows it will start huffing and puffing if it tries to run. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2009
Produttori del Barbaresco
Piedmont, Italy
Barbaresco
Pora
Riserva
Nebbiolo
2001
$30.99
14.0%
Dusky purple core, as it turns to more dull ruby to brick red you can see the tiny sediment particles floating throughout, rims not fully betraying age. The nose packed with orange blossoms and rose hips, the cherry, raspberry scents in turn not showing dried fruit notes, shades of tar and tea leaf, the herbal component freshens and scrubs the nostrils, throws in a wedge of lemon at the last moment, average plus length. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, very open and approachable at first but with additional air time starts to close up and get noticeably tannic. Through that dustiness the cherry, blackberry, plum fruit does betray a raisiny side. The orange, lemon citrus pleases, as do the tea and tobacco aspects. Not as floral as in the nose. Shapeshifts enough that it is difficult to say with assurance just where it is on its evolutionary path. 89 points
Castellani, Michele
Veneto, Italy
Rosso Veronese
Sergio
Corvina
1998
$29.99
13.0%
Red brick to purple hued core, thick brick red to scarlet rims, vividly colored throughout and youthful looking. The nose offers up pine, cedar, wildflowers and a meadow breeze, lots of orange zest, prune and date notes meet fresher cherry and currant scents, sturdy without sacrificing lift, ample complexity. Medium-bodied, its density again more impressive than its suaveness. The tannins are steady without making any bold statements. The raspberry, red cherry, currant fruit is savory without forcing itself too. Nicely floral, rose hips, lemon to tangerine citrus. Keeps its grip while developing adequate perfume. Has lots of energy and not the sort of wine to hide its flaws, not that there are many. 88 points
Puzelat, Thierry
Loire, France
Touraine
In Côt We Trust
Malbec
2006
$21.99
13.0%
Ruby-violet core, bright red magenta to ruby rims, mild filminess otherwise clean. Bouncy strawberry, pomegranate, raspberry fruit scents in the nose with an herbal, dirt, caked earth on stone edge, pungent wildflowers, sharp lemon to lime citrus, oddly gets pruney before it dissolves. Medium-bodied, firm super-structure with steel-like tannin and acidity, brings out to full effect white pepper, green pepper, cut grass, brown earth and stone. This is in part due also to the moderate depth of the black cherry, blackberry fruit. Replete with cedar, sandalwood, incense-like accents. Maintains a steady presence with some welcome “rough and tumble” aspects. If it had more kick through the finish, would be much closer to being complete. 87 points
Quintessa
Napa Valley, California
Rutherford
Blend
2004
$115.99
14.8%
Dense purple core, stops short of opacity, rich scarlet red to brick red rims, super saturation, has a sleek surface given its density. Toasted coconut, butterscotch, molasses makes oak quite prominent in the nose, thick unto syrupy cassis, black cherry, blackberry fruit scents, mixes in cinnamon and nutmeg spice, fresh mint leaf, quite primary with close to nada in terms of development or hints at what development may be ahead. Full-bodied, thick and layered in the mouth, very sweet and sugary, the tannins are powdery at best. Milk chocolate, cocoa, caramel, butterscotch oak, minimal toast edge though. The black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, blueberry fruit jellied and coated in sugar. You get a minor bit of cedar, mint and sweet tea. The length of the finish is adequate but nothing extraordinary. Well-crafted dross. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Carmenère. 88 points
Castellare di Castellina, Podere
Tuscany, Italy
Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
S. Niccolò
Blend
1999
$24.99
16.0%
Tenuous yellow-orange hued core, empties out towards the rims, easily transparent with below average shine. Presents a smoky nose with a fried character to the tangerine, lemon scents, curious note of clove along with concentrated golden raisin, date, fig fruit scents, golden honey, very noticeable nuttiness, the floral side a touch heavy, doesn’t lift. Medium-bodied, seems to be at an awkward stage, the pieces don’t quite fit together. Very nutty with almond and brazil nuts. Green apple, peach, apricot fruit leads into white grapefruit citrus. Gives up cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger spice in a lowkey manner. The acidity is fairly high. Not sure if it can put on sufficient weight to find balance with more age. Finish is truncated. 60% Malvasia, 40% Trebbiano. 87 points
Poniatowski, Prince
Loire, France
Vouvray
Clos de l’Avenir
Chenin Blanc
1997
$30.99
12.0%
Rich golden hue, close to amber, flat appearance with its age apparent, however, still attractive in its own way. Wooly, earthy nose with a little oily smokiness and stoniness, depends on quince, apricot, peach fruit and candied orange peel to hold your attention. Medium-bodied, flat footed to bottom heavy, attributable mainly to lacking acidity. Not too much sweetness left in the apricot, peach, guava, pear fruit but stays solid enough throughout. Not a great deal of stoniness nor minerality. Soft, soaking pink grapefruit and lemon citrus. Milky but not rubbery, appears fully aged and on the backside of its best plateau. Gentle dissolve through the finish, pleasant. 87 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2001
$29.99
13.0%
Watery green-gold color, loses what hue is there way before reaching the rims, average surface luster. Vanilla, toffee, caramel in the nose but even this lacks depth, the scents evanescent, be they lemon peel or white stones, more pit than pulp in the apricot, peach, pear scents, open and lifting by default as it lacks oomph. Light to medium-bodied, mineral and stone dust in abundance, same for lemon and orange peel. The fruit is almost totally shot, whispers of pear, apple, peach. The premox element is hard to gauge because even this is washed out, not much toffee nor honeyed bread notes. The acidity is above average yet nothing unique. Disappointing. 85 points
Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann
Nahe, Germany
Oberhäuser
Brücke
Spätlese Goldkap AP #17
Riesling
2000
$30.00
8.0%
Dark green-gold in color, transparent in a gauzy manner, the hue drops off a lot around the rims. Solid rubbery nose with gentler petrol notes, slabs of lime and sweet white grapefruit citrus, dense and slightly inexpressive melon, pear, red apple, peach scents, the florality does not provide much lift, not sure where it is today, closed or starting to go. Medium-bodied, milky with big rubbery notes and a round, undimpled texture. More pineapple, guava fruit to go with the nectarine, red apple, apricot base, plenty of zing, however, with a sugary quality. Rose water and lilacs appear at the same time as pink and white grapefruit juice. The acidity is on the soft side, probably shortens the finish a few ticks. While it does not hit the “next gear” it’s a pretty good drop. 89 points
Müller-Catoir, Weingut
Pfalz, Germany
Haardter
Bürgergarten
Auslese AP #10
Riesling
1997
$52.99
10.0%
Solid aged gold to amber in color, distorts light and vision, moderate shine in the surface, only a slight hue loss towards the rims. Tire rubber notes have developed nicely in the nose, the stone notes are quiet, most of the stage yielded to the pineapple, nectarine, papaya, apricot scents, the latter draws out a slight milky creaminess and vanilla accents, lots of tangerine to lime citrus juice as well. In the mouth it’s very sweet, however, the acid, while not bright, does provide direction and contour to the whole shebang. The tangelo, pink grapefruit, lime citrus even more heightened here, as sweet as it is sour. Positively drips with pineapple, papaya, guava, apricot, nectarine, red apple fruit, some counterbalance from smokiness and chalk bits. The rubber and milk lesser here, instead you get more rose petals and citrus blossom. Very balanced, retains pacing and weight from start to finish, this without sacrificing a sense of progression. If it had more acidic bite it would really be about fully complete. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2009
Sequillo
Swartland, South Africa
Blend
2006
$34.99
14.5%
The dark golden hue concentrating further into light amber at the core, mild luminescent glow helps fill out the rims. No expense spared with the oak, the nose drips charred toast, butterscotch, toffee and vanilla fudge, blends in thick slabs of lemon and lime citrus, the floral dimension stifled somewhat, angular feel to the peach, apricot, nectarine, persimmon, pineapple fruit scents, gums up in your nostrils hence a general lack of lift. Medium-bodied, what’s there packed in as densely as possible. Could not be oakier if it tried, sour pickle juice, butterscotch, burnt buttered toast, lime pie and whipped heavy cream. The acidity and the alcohol are a double barrel of trouble and scatter buckshot through your mouth with the first sip. The florality eventually finds room to breathe and bolsters the sweetness of the apricot, pineapple, nectarine, guava fruit. That said, the overall burnt qualities never subside and it gets harder and harder to enjoy it with each sip. Suspect it is aimed at a much different target audience than moi. 60% Chenin Blanc, 20% Grenache Blanc, 10% Viognier, 10% Roussanne. 84 points
Clair, Domaine Bruno
Burgundy, France
Marsannay
Les Grasses Têtes
Pinot Noir
2005
$39.99
13.0%
The clarity of the ruby-violet core never diminishes its depth and vibrancy, the violet continues to permeate the rims, where ruby and red magenta coexist, not lack of surface reflectivity. The nose offers a great deal of weight and sheer density, trumps the noticeably ripe plum, black cherry, blackberry scents, same for the orange reduction and floral dew, nothing you could call delicate about it, more beefy than anything. Full-bodied, here too the roasted quality to the otherwise sugary cherry, plum, blackberry fruit creates a herky jerky quality. Leather, merde, twigs and bark give it some semblance of “place” but even these seem exaggerated at times. More tannin present than acidity, a sign of overall lack of freshness. Clay and wet earth continue to slow down the pacing. By no stretch a horrible wine and may be in a less than optimal stage right now for sampling but, still, clunky if not clumsy. 86 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2009
Clarendon Hills
South Australia, Australia
Clarendon
Clarendon
Grenache
2004
$60.99
14.5%
Grimy purple color, there’s some ruby but it’s mostly brick red around the rims, has dropped off but retains a good bit of intensity. The nose hits you at first with leather, animal fur, dried tar and floral oil before really cresting with hard candy raspberry, blueberry, blackberry scents and sweet tangerine citrus, gets real minty too, for all of its heaviness does develop a thick perfume. Full-bodied, not as ponderous as you’d think for its weight moves forward decently. Lots of orange and lemon citrus zest, along with the florality soothes the gritty, rough mouth texture. Given the latter, not especially tannic nor acidic just dimpled and uneven. You get sweet tea, maduro cigar wrapper notes as well. The blueberry, raspberry, strawberry fruit not shy, spreads across the palate, stays within a hard candy profile rather than fluid liquid. For all its sweetness, alcoholic heat does interfere with the juiciness. It’s full-throttled and puts the petal to the metal but that doesn’t mean it has complete control over the steering wheel. 87 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Chardonnay
2001
$32.99
13.0%
Very deep and advanced golden color, close to amber at times, retains a good deal of clarity, depth carries through to the rims. Nose betrays some premox, brioche, honey, glazed orange, cinnamon, poached peach and apricot fruit with a touch of pineapple, lactose, mint, overall pleasing but does lack the crispness you’d expect. Medium-bodied, seems to have lost some weight, which makes the acidity more pronounced and jagged. Very dry and tacky texture throughout which attenuates the flavors further. Lemon and lime citrus is tart yet juicy. Bready, less honey, more straight-up doughiness. Some snap left in the pear, apple, apricot, peach fruit, at least through the mid-palate. Adds in some pineapple. All in all not a bad quaff per se but, yes, it’s not the essence of steely Chablis. 87 points
Ricasoli, Barone
Tuscany, Italy
Chianti Classico
Brolio
Sangiovese
2003
$25.99
13.5%
Purple bruise to black hued core, close to full opacity, dark scarlet to brick red rims, does not lack for color extraction. Heady nose of plum, prune, rum soaked cherries, milk chocolate, eventually whiffs of leather and animal hide break through, then back to honey, orange blossom and wildflowers, either way, it’s ripe. Medium-bodied, the acidity has enough kick to create a fresher mouth entry. After that, though, the underripeness of the tannins wage a predictable battle against the pruney plum, cherry, blackberry fruit flavors. More leather and barnyard dirt here, tar and a suggestion of licorice. The orange blossom helps to open up the mid-palate for a brief moment but after that the whole congeals and shows to a snail’s pace. As a result, the finish is blockish and square. If you lack heavy, fruit-driven Chianti, sure, why not. 86 points
Alternatively you can continue on to read tasting notes on other older wines Hanes has put out of their misery.