Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in December 2007
Irvine, James
South Australia, Australia
Eden Valley
Grand Merlot
Merlot
1997
$45.00
14.5%
Opaque core of dull black-purple, the haziness extends through the saturated crimson to garnet rims. There’s a sweet, BBQ sauce grill smoke quality throughout the nose, meat slathered and dripping fat, some cedar thrown on the fire for good measure, molasses, eucalyptus and plush plum, black cherry fruit scents, built to catch your attention. Full-bodied while still coming across as slimmed down, tightened into a more concentrated message. A lot more mint and eucalyptus here, brings out additional cedar and tea leaf notes. The molasses and honey aspects remain but there’s less of the gaminess. Firm enough to make you think it was tannic in its youth, if resolved today. Milk chocolate, candied lemon peel and sweet garden herbs have their place. The cherry, currant, plum fruit stands up straight and has no problem getting to the finish line. Within its idiom it is a very nice wine and may wow some tasters more than this schmuck. 89 points
Castillo, Casa
Jumilla, Spain
Las Gravas
Blend
1998
$19.99
14.5%
Reddish-black influence darkens the purple core, the rims are dark crimson and don’t betray much aging. Strong presence of black licorice and cinnamon in the nose, milder florality, no let-up in the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit scents, not particularly long but fills your nostrils completely while there. Full-bodied, smooth, round and full, the attack leaves the impression of a young wine and only with the last glass or two does any sediment slip through. Very ripe and juicy raspberry, blueberry, cherry fruit steals the show, here in the mouth the flowers equal to the licorice, the cinnamon-led sweet spices and cocoa powder rise above both of the former. Cruises past the mid-palate with elevating orange to lemon citrus, adds snap to the finish. Complete, if not somewhat disappointingly unevolved, remains a “fun” wine to chug. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Monastrell. 89 points
Felsina, Fattoria di
Tuscany, Italy
Castelnuovo Berardenga Fontalloro
Sangiovese
2001
$44.99
13.5%
As much black-red as purple in the core, clean and dark, the wide rims formed of burnt crimson with an ochre tinge. There’s licorice, sweet herbs, tree bark and asphalt first in the nose, the cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit scents at first display a hard candy sweetness before turning mute. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with tannins yet fierce and drying. Again, there’s no lack of fruit, a touch darker into the cherry, blackberry spectrum, but it has to struggle to get past the mid-palate. Quietly floral with an orange to lemon citrus zing, the licorice lighter here too, the leather, tar, bark and fallen leaves densely compact and not allowing the lighter nuances room. Given some time it unclenches an iota but just. Certainly opened too early but it leaves you guessing if the fruit can stand up to the tannins over the longer haul. 88 points
McCrea Cellars
Yakima Valley, Washington
Red Mountain
Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$40.00
14.5%
Sleek surface glistens with light, pure black core, flush crimson rims youthfully deep, if aging. The nose is flattened out, pressed flowers, cocoa dust, dry plum and cherry scents, some old grill fat and ash, little length. Light to medium-bodied, dry with a light film left by way of tannins. Very smooth, the plum, blackberry fruit steady for what’s there. Moderate florality with a vague orange essence. You might find some stoniness if you’re looking for it. Doesn’t strike you as particularly evolved. Lack of oak presence helps it glide without a hitch, no creamy slowdown. Sure, it’s losing it but certainly in a dignified manner. 87 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Mendocino County, California
Alder Springs Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$55.00
14.8%
Layers of blackness fill the core, faded red brick rims with a little ruby left. In the nose there’s molasses crisp, orange spice, sliced ham, displays a certain shortness in the plum, blackberry scents which doesn’t leave your nostrils empty per se, just more compactly presented. Medium-bodied, hollow and even shorter here in the mouth. Pine needle, mint, orange peel and flowers give a very credible stab at closing the breach but not getting help from the drying out cherry, blackberry, plum fruit. A touch of caramel, milk chocolate softens the center some. As it opens with air time loses concentration, best to pop and chug as quickly as possible. 85 points
Schweiger
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$53.99
13.8%
Solid black-purple core, throwing a fair amount of sediment but hard to see except for up close, the brick red rims possess a brightness which lends youthfulness. Mint, licorice, sweet garden herbs and eucalyptus create a breezy lift in the nose, deepened some by wet cedar, milk chocolate and orange spice notes, the cherry, currant and blackberry scents carve out a steady beat, no complaints about length before dissolve. Medium-bodied, the tannins dissipating leading to a creamier texture than possessed in its youth, sinks in more, blurred outline. Licorice and menthol best through the attack, mid-palate features softening caramel, vanilla, milk chocolate tones. Lemon citrus, cut grass, cedar and minerals bring back the verve, draws out some sour bite in the raspberry, red cherry, currant fruit to refresh. Rolls along at the end, good-naturedly meandering. 90 points
Forman
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1991
$55.00
12.9%
While there’s minimal film in the core, the purple appears to have lost some luster and doesn’t fight deep into the crimson to rust red rims, still darkly hued throughout. Rugged nose, almost prickly, sea salt, minerally brown earth, pine cones, bell pepper, dried orange peels, cedar chips, garden herbs, all together creates a great swirling effect so that it’s easy to skip over the yet tenacious red currant, cherry, blackberry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, the tannins show only moderate signs of abating, making for one chewy wine. The cedar and menthol fumes quite pronounced here, followed by driftwood, orange spice, tar, graphite and earth flavors. Here the cherry, currant, plum fruit might show signs of weakening, as much attributable to the tannins as to its age. Seems like there’s no sense in waiting further, probably best with a big old hunk of beef. 90 points
Failla
Edna Valley, California
Alban Vineyard
Viognier
2003
$35.00
14.5%
Very fuzzy, if not outright cloudy, appearance, translucent enough to add a couple of levels of denseness to the green-gold straw color, displays some amber flecks on the way to fading at the rims. The nose is hollow and comprised mainly of baking spices, orange and lemon zest, butterscotch, vanilla pudding and a brief expression of pear, apricot, apple fruit. Medium-bodied, as in the nose, you palpably feel the lost weight, as if skin hanging off of bones. Here the alcoholic heat unsettles the attack some and heightens the spiciness as well as the butterscotch, caramel nuances, more toasty than creamy. The orange, lemon citrus quieter, same for the pear, apple, apricot fruit. Semi-bitter during the finish, one might aver the cork deserved popping long before. 85 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2000
$37.99
12.5%
The darkness of the purple core masks its fairly chunky sediment, the ruby in the rims fading to a more basic red cast, surface pleasingly reflective. Carves through your nostrils, each scent pared down to its most basic essence, grass, muddy earth, dried beef and gristle, old orange peels, smoky wood, sour red cherry, cranberry, pomegranate fruit, just the smallest dollop of caramel. Lean and slightly mean in the mouth too, medium-bodied, but does become somewhat dilute towards the back end. The crunchy bacon and dried beef fat yields swiftly to herbaceousness, grapefruit and orange peel, stones and poor earth. The acidity is quite aggressive and at times over-dominates things. No lack of bite to be found in the currant, cranberry, red cherry fruit. Unless you are a total acid freak, drink up soon. 88 points
Domecq, Pedro
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, Spain
Very Rare Amontillado 51-1a 30 Years V.O.R.S. (Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum) Sherry
Blend
NV
$86.99
19.0%
The amber orange core is clear but has enough translucent shimmer to push the drop off to yellow to the rims, its credible integration gives it a naturally aged look. The alcohol creates a murmur of a disturbance in the nose before caramel candy, baklava, orange glaze and raw dough carve out a place, not smoothing per se but sets the table for the nuttiness and peach, apricot, golden raisin fruit. Medium-bodied, balanced without losing its ability to grab you, has some ups and downs. The almond and brazil nut flavors more prevalent here, the orange to lemon citrus drier and zestier too. There’s an herbal twist which pairs well with the medicinal aspect, helps tease out more perceptible acidity. The pear, peach, apricot fruit comes with close to zero juice, all dry after-images of the actual primary flavors. No lack of length through the finish, you can pace yourself between sips. Unspecified percentages of Palomino, Pedro Ximénez, Muscat of Alexandria. 89 points
Clos du Tue-Bœuf, Le
Loire, France
Touraine
Le Buisson Pouilleux
Sauvignon Blanc
2005
$21.99
14.0%
Looks like still pond water with at least the yellow-brown hue of apple cider, completely cloudy, you pretty much don’t want to look at it. The nose plays off the appearance, apple cider, pear juice, cinnamon stick, freshly squeezed lemon juice, doesn’t lift per isn’t quite heavy either, more like a soft down pillow in your nostrils. Full-bodied, soft and super-relaxed here too, fills every crack and crevice without appearing eager to do so. The cinnamon, ginger spice more along the line of cookies or pies than main course spices. Yet, not especially honeyed, the lemon juice gives it some edge while the underlying acidity maintains a steady pulse. The peach, apple, pear, apricot fruit has all the weight and concentration of dried fruit with nearly zero of the sweetness. You’d be hard pressed to peg this as Sauvignon Blanc. 87 points
Falesco
Lazio, Italy
Montiano
Merlot
1997
$64.99
13.0%
Lifeless black core, like a shaded, still pond, the brick red rims of average thickness and satisfactory richness. The nose has elements of resin, herbs and rubbing alcohol to bring leanness to the cherry, plum fruit scents, some cocoa powder left lurking about, keeps acting like it’s on the precipice of expanding but doesn’t. Medium-bodied, dried out and tacky right off the bat, has a metallic, minerally ring to it that plays up any sourness in the cherry, raspberry fruit. Doesn’t come across as excessively tannic in a structured manner, more like a layer of dust. Possesses just enough cedar and leather to get you guessing a Bordeaux grape. Spicier during the second half as the fruit fades. Nothing wrong with it per se except the relative lack of breadth as well as price. 86 points
Hirtzberger, Weingut Franz
Wachau, Austria
Spitzer
Singerriedel
Smaragd
Riesling
2005
$79.99
14.0%
As deep as the golden color is, along with green to amber tinges, it strikes you as youthful, while the hue drops precipitously along the rims the translucency below pulls it all into one fabric nicely. While the nose maintains a highly tropical nature it presents very clear delineation among the elements, the floral breeze breaks through from the thicker pineapple, nectarine, peach, papaya fruit scents, effortlessly blends in tangerine to grapefruit citrus, the stone aspect smooth and evokes a light dampness. Medium-bodied, strikes you as if it could be much fuller but prefers to trim down to increase thrust and focus. The grapefruit, lemon, tangerine citrus keener here and takes a definite lead over the flowers and mint. The stone and mineral components greater as well, enough so that in tandem with the aforementioned cordons off the excess in the nectarine, apricot, pineapple, papaya, pear fruit. Both flavors and weight last well through the finish. For all of its attractive qualities today, suggests a more interesting future yet ahead. 91 points
Foley Vineyards, Robert
Napa Valley, California
Charbono
2002
$35.00
13.5%
The core isn’t black per se but it’s so deeply purple that it might as well be, causes the scarlet red rims to in turn darken appreciably too, clean surface. Very floral nose, useful as there’s not much else there save for the plum, cherry fruit scents, while simple adequately satisfying. Full-bodied, retains the powerful floral musk, adding in minor notes of cocoa powder, orange zest and beef jerky. The tannins a flat pancake across the palate, not bitingly dry but stifling. The dull plum, cherry, black currant fruit thick and chewy from start to finish, consistently monochromatic. Continues to squeeze your tongue tightly at the end, a bruiser that bruises. 87 points
Dagueneau, Didier
Loire, France
Pouilly-Fumé
Silex
Sauvignon Blanc
2000
$52.99
14.2%
Golden hue bolstered by thick translucent layering and a vague amber cast, minimal difference from core through rims. The nose is surprisingly demure, grass and herbs barely nip at you, white grapefruit and chalk dust too lack grip, the nectarine, pineapple, guava fruit way too dry to strike you as fully tropical, mutter of oil slick before it dissolves. Full-bodied as the sheer viscosity keeps pressing down on your tongue, enough so you may not notice the diffusion of the flavors near the end. That said, no lack of ripe pineapple, nectarine, apricot, star fruit flavors and there’s also a sweet orange touch as well as something close to mint. The acidity is average, not a lot of cleansing going on. Any stones have been polished to ultimate smoothness. Remains an impressive wine but perhaps not for reasons a purist would accept. 88 points
Fichet, Jean-Philippe
Burgundy, France
Puligny-Montrachet
Les Referts
Chardonnay
1999
$47.99
13.0%
Light golden color starting to deepen, shiny surface with only minor hue loss at the rims. Floral nose with cotton candy, limeade supplements before smoky wet minerals, metallic rust give it breadth, the pear, peach, apple fruit steady but not a major component. Medium-bodied, not excessively dry yet there’s a serious tacky quality to it. The lemon, lime citrus develops more bite here as it presents above average acidity. There’s some licorice, anise notes to compensate for the fact that the pear, peach, apple fruit fades by the mid-palate. Again, after the fade buttressed a little by flowers and notes of glazed pie crust. Develops a semi-spicy finish but a little too late. 87 points
Blain Gagnard, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet
Chardonnay
1996
$115.99
13.5%
Solid golden color with a prettily bright surface, holds steady well through to the rims. The smoky nose balanced out by caramel, then enlivened once more by lemon zest, the pear, apple, apricot fruit never truly crests but steady, dissolves with a touch of licorice. Medium-bodied and somewhat flat, the acidity is drying in a dusty manner. Presents a sour edge to the green apple, pear, apricot fruit, fruit flavors noticeable. Blends in honey, toffee, lemon peel to soften its overall appeal but this only gets so far. As hard as you try to focus on it, the truncated ending leaves you with naught but the sourness. Gets a bit grassy too and, yes, somewhat oxidized. 85 points
Laurel Glen
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Mountain
Cabernet Sauvignon
1986
$55.00
No alcohol percentage on label
Lightly filmy black-purple core, the rims still as much ruby as crimson red, quite dark. Fairly funky nose of barnyard floor, wet cedar, tobacco, graphite, while dense still has a fluffy feel similar to wet cotton balls, the dusty spice and orange peel contribute to the roasted quality in the cherry, black raspberry scents. Medium-bodied, acidic and tannic enough to still come off as jagged, starts drying out your mouth from the first sip. The cedar, orange peel, pine, licorice able to fend off the merde, straw elements. The orange citrus dimension takes off and puts zing into the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit. Muscular finish but growing metallic, tomato skin edges start to show. Like an athlete known for determination more than skill, won’t give up no matter the sweat or energy needed. 88 points
Andrew Will
Regional Blend, Washington
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1995
$29.99
13.0%
Very dark purple core, fills the glass almost fully to the rims where a bit of ruby-red hums warmly. Mint and pine bloom heavily in the nose, damp cedar, thick molasses and caramel add the glue, very good fullness found in the cherry, blackberry scents. Medium-bodied, tightens up very soon after it enters your mouth, dry and almost tacky. The sour and bracing cherry, red currant, rhubarb, Italian plum fruit spreads across the palate and creates a broad open space. However, the cedar, tobacco, tea leaf lack lift and don’t adequately fill in the open spaces. Chocolate, caramel comes in measured doses. Comes up with an herbal, mountain forest character with time. In good shape, more steady than spectacular, nearing the back end of its drinking plateau. 88 points
Leonetti
Columbia Valley, Washington
Reserve
Blend
2002
$100.00
14.5%
Jet black core, fully impenetrable with thin, if vibrant, red-magenta rims. Cedar, sandalwood, orange spice, cocoa powder infuse the nose, some floral wisps bring out lightness in the cherry, raspberry scents, hangs like a cloud without dissolve, there to be burnt off by the dawning sun. Medium-bodied, tangy and zesty attack with some herbal twist, smoothed out by chocolate, orange peel, mint. The tannins put up a fuss but release by the mid-palate. Molasses, grill smoke, pie glaze appear without it seeming clumsily oaky, just a part. Some heat comes through on the back end but the consistency of the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit paves over the rough patches. Presents just the right amount of challenge, not interfering with your relaxation. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 17% Petit Verdot. 89 points
Shafer
Napa Valley, California
Stags Leap District
Hillside Select
Cabernet Sauvignon
2001
$175.00
14.9%
Very dark purple core, so incredibly clean you don’t want to call it opaque, the thin rims present a deep red-magenta cast. The nose is all coconut custard, mint, vanilla fudge, gains lift and clarity through orange zest, eucalyptus, pine cone notes, as thick as the cherry, plum, blackberry scents are, proceeds with streamlined focus. Medium-bodied, hints at full-bodied but fits itself into that girdle and damned if it ain’t slimmed down. That said, it’s creamy, full as if whipped up into a froth in your mouth. The vanilla cream, caramel accents soft without being too so, cling to the syrupy cherry, raspberry, plum fruit. Minty fresh with orange zest, the tannins savvy enough to dig in first before releasing later, even at this intermediate stage. “Wow” without the “look at me” approach. 91 points
Foley Vineyards, Robert
Napa Valley, California
Claret
Blend
2002
$110.00
14.1%
Pure black core, no purple before the appearance of the scarlet red rims, sits ponderously in the glass. The oak in the nose is so dense that it barely separates into recognizable scents, some vanilla, butter, butterscotch, chocolate, then the juicy, wet raspberry, cherry scents take over, some eucalyptus and flowers but it dissolves with a blast of alcoholic fumes. Medium-bodied, somewhat hollow and thus loses weight. Mint, chocolate, caramel and menthol pretty much beat down the rest of the flavors, including the cherry, currant, raspberry fruit, this lacking in natural flow and short. The tannins are like powder that clumps when wet. More raisin and date notes come out through the finish. I am no longer qualified to taste these wines it seems since they just strike me as so transparently fake. Mea culpa. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, small amount of Merlot. 87 points
Sine Qua Non
Edna Valley, California
Alban Vineyard
Mr. K Noble Man
Chardonnay
2002
$85.00
10.1%
Light orange amber in color, clear surface with good translucent layering, a turn more yellow around the rims. Candied orange peel, cinnamon/clove spice, plush apricot, nectarine, pineapple scents, even hits you with a nicely bracing herbal swipe, hints at lift but doesn’t. Full-bodied and could be as thick as lead were it not for the energizing acidity, starts to cleanse and scrub the palate before the nectarine, papaya, pineapple, apricot fruit slathers itself on your mouth pores. Complementary cinnamon, clove and lemon zest stay in line while adding depth. The finish is forever, the weight and flavor intensity drops not an iota, ultra-sweet from start to finish. A steamroller if there ever was one. 375 ml bottle. 90 points
Brunel, Domaine André
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Les Cailloux
Blend
2000
$29.99
14.0%
There’s enough grimy film in it to darken the black-red core into opacity while old brick red rims suggest orange around the outermost edge. Highly medicinal nose with notes of cut grass left out in the rain for days, licorice and sweet tea leaf aspects bolster the maraschino cherry to raspberry hard candy scents, mild animal funk alongside leather, the Mourvèdre seems to really come through. Medium to full-bodied, weighs heavily, if not inertly, on the tongue like it’s passed out. Sweet orange tang with tea leaves, herbs and garrigues, could be pretty were it not for the weight. The cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit close to developing a roasted quality. Neither especially tannic nor acidic but more of the latter. Retains that fur, wool, leather edge but not clear of voice yet. Comes across like it’s on the way to increased harmony without leaving you impatient for the day. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah. 88 points
Seifried
Nelson, New Zealand
Riesling
2005
$16.99
13.5%
Green-yellow straw in color, transparent with a thing gauzy layer to dull the crispness, the hue holds very well through to the rims. There’s an initial flourish of chalky stoniness to the nose that swiftly falls in the face of ripe peach, apricot fruit and sweet honey notes, hint of white grapefruit to lemon citrus but that’s really it. Medium-bodied, it’s overall high level of sweetness at odds with the almost artificial in feel and withering acidity, you can’t revel in the juice nor snap to attention with any edginess. More grassy in the mouth than expected, bring out more of the mixed white citrus. For the aforementioned reasons the apricot, pear, peach fruit falters occasionally. Not as honeyed here, allows some more stone accents through. OK wine but nothing unusually special. (Screwcap) 85 points
Jota, La
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Cabernet Franc
1997
$48.00
14.5%
Perfectly shiny surface above the black-red core, if there’s any purple at all it has to fight orange-garnet around the rims for space. The high alcohol disturbs the nose, once you have a glass or two and have sufficient buzz to not care there’s caramel, coffee and buttered popcorn even though the oak has definitely knit in, the plum, cherry scents holding on well, tar and eucalyptus dashes add some depth to a mostly one-dimensional olfactory experience. Full-bodied while coming across as slimmed down, some dusty qualities remind you there’s supposed to be tannin here, not too sweet but it still leans heavily on the cherry, blackberry, currant fruit to get by. The toffee, caramel, coffee ice cream parts met by fresh leather, orange zest and, gosh, even a moment or two of bell pepper. The soup starts to mix together by the finish, so while it has good extension loses clarity. It’s very well made in its idiom and would be a fun wine with which to try to trick Napa Cabernet Sauvignon fans. 89 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Castelli-Knight Ranch
Syrah
2002
$45.00
16.9%
Black purple core, the surface reflects enough light to mask any graininess below, the rims have the bright quality of freshly opened blood. Bodacious floral breeze to the nose, smells like a bake shop, all warm caramel, toffee, chocolate, coffee and mint, blackberry and cherry pie, orange pekoe tea, nothing “vin de garde” about it but charms with its spoof. Full-bodied, smooth with a few bubbles, like fresh paint on a warm radiator. Ultra-sweet plum to prune, date, cherry, blackberry, blueberry fruit, tightens up during the mid-palate as minor herbal notes appear and the oak toast reveals more burnt notes than in the nose. Menthol and orange blossom attempt to soften the back half but the alcohol is starting to detract from the overall polish. Comes back with enough molasses on the finish to evoke raw bacon. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in November 2007
Renard Mondésir, Château
Bordeaux, France
Fronsac
Blend
2003
$21.99
13.5%
Deep black core, impenetrable there while the blood red rims stretch widely and possess enough clarity to see through. There’s a burnt coffee, espresso bean edge to the nose, hard to get past this to any of the black currant, cherry fruit, maybe some leather or floral accents but impossible to tell. Medium-bodied, firmly tannic and archly drying, no moisture allowed from the attack on through to the finish. The tannins even strong enough to match all the burnt oak blow for blow. Hard to ascertain where the cherry, blackberry fruit is at, because it’s not in your mouth. Some relief provided by a slight elevation in the floral dimension here. Increasing greenness on the back half. Not a lot to recommend for itself here. Ouch. Mostly Merlot, remainder Cabernet Franc. 83 points
Laurel Glen
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Mountain
Cabernet Sauvignon
1985
$50.00
Very dark purple core, made even more impenetrable by the thick silt, the heavy crimson rims show some orange tint as well. Dense cedar, sandalwood, pressed flowers and menthol in the nose, the cherry, currant, plum scents have held on well. Full-bodied but not heavy, as solid as the attack is, sheds weight swiftly moving forward without seeming hollow nor short. The floral side stronger here, more citrus blossom, not especially earthy, the cedar, leather, tobacco leaf notes wirily stretched out. Dried fruit thickness and slow pacing to the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit. The tannins display remarkable life and add dryness as well as firmness, brings out more dusty spice. For all of its rugged toughness, not without its points of pleasure. 90 points
Turley
Central Valley, California
Lodi
Dogtown Vineyard
Zinfandel
2000
$40.00
16.2%
Red-purple throughout with only a minor shift redder near the rims, on the whole more clear than grimy. Dusty spice and dried earth in the nose make things flat, even the toffee, butter crunch has lots its crisp edge, with orange peel, mint too it’s not complex but, hey, not simple either. Medium-bodied, raisin, prune, date flavors equal to the cherry, blackberry fruit. Bright tangerine, orange citrus pairs graciously with the menthol, flowers and cocoa powder. Shows a little acidity but no tannins, and structure comes from settling into itself through age. Loosely-knit, turning gauzy or diffuse like looking right into the setting sun. Ends with two scoops of vanilla ice cream. 89 points
Colla, Poderi
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Bussia Dardi Le Rose
Nebbiolo
1997
$40.99
13.5%
The red-purple core is very clear, surrounded by red-orange rims where it fades close to complete transparency. Moderate funk on the nose of leather, black earth, minor notes of rose petal and orange blossom with high-toned red cherry, raspberry scents, lifts but only to a point, then just kind of hangs pregnantly in the air. Medium-bodied, very candied in a hard candy way, while at the same time sour. The mixture of leather, brown earth, tar, forest matter alternates indecisively between dry and moist. The tannins softening just enough that the edge comes more from the orange zest, grass, anise seed elements. Rounding into form, needs a few more years. That said, unsure what higher heights left to ascend. 88 points
Antinori, Marchese
Tuscany, Italy
Solaia
Blend
1997
$159.99
13.5%
As much black as violet in the core, extremely dark red-ruby to scarlet colored rims. Very sweet nose of honey, maple syrup as well as extremely ripe plum, cherry, blackberry fruit scents, some nuances of wet tobacco and candied orange peel, has a steady and full lift to it, in no way airy but not anchored to the ground either. Full-bodied, layers itself like steel plates on your tongue before softened by the juicily ripe black cherry, blackberry fruit. Tobacco, leather, tea leaves as well as coffee beans and dark chocolate able to provide some counterpoint to the fruit. This said, not especially oaky nor toasty, holds onto a certain velvety texture. You get most of the orange peel and licorice through the finish. Seems like it is starting to open up but not truly there yet. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese. 89 points
Rampolla, Castello dei
Tuscany, Italy
Sammarco
Blend
1997
$71.99
13.0%
The core is black-purple without giving up clarity, features very dense, if not brooding, blood to brick red rims, certainly dominates any ruby. The crushed cherries, raspberries in the nose overcome by saddle soap, wet straw, anise seed, pressed flowers and quieter earthiness, the nose on the whole not especially forthcoming. Medium-bodied, remains highly tannic and clenched, you sense the cherry, plum, currant fruit struggling to speak, develops a sour edge as a result. Herbs, licorice, dried flowers, belt leather, dried tar balls add diversity but it’s still not ready to wake up, only marginal improvement hours after opening. So, a credible showing but not yet really what it should become. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese. 88 points
Karra Yerta Wines
South Australia, Australia
Eden Valley
Limited Release
Riesling
2005
$19.99
11.8%
Pale yellow-green straw color with a faint glow, clear, if on the dull side. Strong, yet soft, petrol in the nose alongside lemon custard, zestier lime citrus, then peach, apricot, pear fruit, with time the stoniness comes out more. Full-bodied with a thick blanket of acidity, keeps it dry without becoming parching. The lime, lemon citrus nips more than bites, starts off more herbaceous but segues nicely into floral notes. Stony, minerally, stream water notes dominate the back end, making the package fairly tightly wound in the final analysis. A good wine which should cost less. (Screwcap) 87 points
Karra Yerta Wines
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Limited Release
Syrah
2004
$27.99
14.3%
Jet black, opaque core, barely lets the crimson red through along the rims, heavily saturated for sure. All creamed coffee, dark chocolate and toffee in the nose, once you get past the oak there’s grass, merde and then fat plum, cherry fruit, just sits in your lap and gives you a big bear hug. Medium to full-bodied, good acidity and tannins which save the day so that the fruit is not too sweet, no dried fruit notes in the plum, cherry, blackberry flavors. Orange peel, flowers and then a cavalcade of caramel, coffee ice cream, vanilla fudge. Some leather and tobacco notes, not much though. During the finish comes up a little short. (Screwcap) 85 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Castelli-Knight Ranch
Syrah
2001
$35.00
13.9%
The opacity in the black-purple core creeps into the saturated ruby rims where age is starting to redden things some. Jammy nose of blackberry, blueberry, black raspberry fruit and warm caramel, mix in generous helpings of mint, floral musk and orange zest and that’s about it, remains primary with minimal signs of developing any gamey or earthy elements. Full-bodied, soft, if not shapeless, little by way of tannin or acidity to freshen the palate. Tastes like you ordered a bowl of fresh fruit for breakfast accompanied by a cup of coffee, all blueberry, cherry, blackberry, peach and melon fruit, not as “black fruit” in flavor as you might expect. Besides the coffee notes, there’s oak inspired toffee and heavy cream but none of these can challenge the fruit. Orange and tangerine tang, more sweet than sour. The weight of the fruit tires you out a little by the finish. 88 points
Hauvette, Domaine Dominique
Provence, France
Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence
Améthyste
Blend
2003
$54.99
13.0%
Semi-opaque brick red influenced black purple core, powerful dark bricking around the rims, unblemished surface. Slight smoky, roasted quality to the nose, wiry cherry, raspberry, red currant scents, menthol, orange zest, crushed grass, nothing here stands out distinctly, ends with accelerating minerality, good length. Medium-bodied, the acidity lends it good tautness, stands on its tippy toes even at the risk of toppling. The tannins are dry and perhaps more drying than would be desired, as expected from the vintage a bit immature. Succinct cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit, crests early then dries out. Lemon zest, with the tanned horsehide you can almost feel the bristly hairs. Chewy and rugged, shows sign of breeding if not class. 60% Cinsault, 30% Carignan, 10% Grenache. 87 points
Failla
Napa Valley, California
Phoenix Ranch
Syrah
2001
$38.00
14.3%
Pure black and fully opaque core, any purple there comes out a nanosecond before you register the thin ruby rims, fairly dull but not necessarily lifeless. The nose a disparate blend of wet lemongrass, coffee beans, orange blossoms, tea leaves and vanilla cream, the dried beef jerky scents might be wishful thinking, roasted quality to the cherry, blackberry scents, on the whole a touch short. Full-bodied, slathers itself rather indelicately across the tongue, mind your manners there! Leaden nature to the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit, as sour as overly concentrated, appears to cloak many other aspects. Displays a fair amount of acidity, minimal tannin, though, sharpens the attack if naught else. Wood smoke, orange zest, eucalyptus, saddle leather there but the oak accents of caramel, coffee, dark chocolate seem to always rise higher. Still has plenty of stuffing, leaves you hoping this isn’t “it,” that you just pulled the cork too early. 88 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Syrah
1999
$59.99
13.0%
Cloudy red-black core even without any visible sediment, the heavy crimson rims almost look gothic. In the nose the floral musk stifled by iodine, beef blood and horsehide notes, the orange to white grapefruit citrus and wet meadow grasses add to the high-toned feel, angular if not edgy red cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit scents, all speed and fury. Medium-bodied, here the plushness, if not dried fruit character, in the cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit forces itself through, making for a sweet and pretty mouth entry before the formidable acidity starts shaving away. There’s a camphor or moth balls nuance that is hard to shake, oddly fits well with the wildflowers and tree bark, grass parts. The bacon, grilled game fat flavors come and go, strong at first and then recede only to bubble up later haphazardly. The sour tang in the white grapefruit citrus most noticeable at the end. Creates a pleasing whirling dervish effect in the mouth, never settles down or seems lacking energy. 90 points
Plaisance, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
2000
$18.99
13.0%
Black purple core, what crimson red is there favors the black, the rims are stained dark scarlet, quite deep. There’s espresso bean and burnt chocolate first in the nose then tobacco, iodine, leather and damp earth, all together tends to overwhelm the cherry, red currant fruit. Medium-bodied, remains dry and tannic, more evolving than evolved. Blood metal, leather, graphite and tobacco are the major elements, alongside the tannins makes for a chewy experience. As in the nose, there’s no reason to doubt the continued presence of the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit, yet, it will be some time before it can truly have the stage. Less coffee bean and crunchy toasted oak than in the nose but the oakaphobe can suss it out. All in all, progressing well and moving towards its planned destination. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. 88 points
Kilikanoon
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Oracle
Shiraz
1998
$39.99
13.5%
There’s a warm glow to the red-violet core through to the ruby-magenta rims, darkened throughout by a fine, grainy silt, clean surface though. The nose offers dried beef, saline and iodine at first, such flatulence too, then straw bales, stone bits with some lift from licorice and candied orange peel notes, with all this going on it’s the eleventh hour before you fully register the plum, blackberry scents, these nonchalantly dipped in milk chocolate. Medium-bodied, the tannins have maintained a credible coat of armor feel and have an able second in the acidity. Needed as there’s a prune, raisin element in the plum, cherry, cassis fruit. Does not appear built to bowl you over, thoughtfully proportioned mint, licorice, eucalyptus accents as well as orange to lemon zest. Earthy without seeming rugged, keeps its polish. As in the nose, more dried beef and blood than outright gaminess. High quality juice with potential room to grow yet. 91 points
Lengs & Cooter
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Swinton
Blend
1998
$37.49
13.6%
There’s sufficient ruby in the violet core to make it semitransparent up close while still dark from a distance, the rims flush with ruby that’s reddening slightly. The nose at first almost fully mint, slowly normalizes into toffee, butterscotch and then demure portions of leather, orange peel and cedar. the black currant, cherry fruit scents angular enough to keep a brisk pace through your nostrils. Medium-bodied, while it has adequate tannins the acidity stands out as the element not to mess with, ready to cut you for looking at it the wrong way. This plays up the white grapefruit, orange citrus to an unusual level, A lot of the flavors come in half doses, milk chocolate, cedar, minerals, dried flowers, nothing persists throughout. The oak much more knit in here. The currant, cherry, blackberry fruit has a tough hide too, lasts until the end but makes you work for the juice. Has personality and not always agreeable, a strength to some, weakness to others. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Shiraz. 89 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Fourchaume
Chardonnay
2004
$39.99
13.0%
Clear, plain golden straw color, moderate tinge of green, holds well through the rims with good shine on the surface and duller appeal below. Has a nose of sweet herbs, licorice, mint before smoky sauna stones and chalk dust take over, hits you with pretty lemon zest, the peach, pear, apple scents hum quietly through the dissolve. Medium-bodied, the acidity is broad and strong like it’s deadlifting squats, dry and over-determining. That said, there’s a lot of sweetness in the orange, lemon citrus, more length than bite in this department. Curious milky notes detract from its overall cut, something like oak cream starts to peek through during the mid-palate. The green apple, pear, peach fruit dry and starts to peter out before the finish. Not a bad showing per se, just doesn’t have the verve you want. 87 points
Terenzuola, Azienda Agricola
Tuscany, Italy
Colli di Luni
Fosso di Corsano
Vermentino
2005
$17.99
13.5%
Pale yellow straw color, quite dull and lacking in luster, translucently layered below. Creamy lemon custard in the nose, flowers, anise seed, high-toned peach, apricot, pear fruit with pit notes, streamwater and mineral shades separate the scents on the whole and cause an airy lift, demure if slow dissolve. Medium-bodied, smoky and almost tarry at first before brighter golden honey and orange reduction zip it up. Has a round and smooth texture without being soft, stays quite firm. The lemon, lime citrus juicy and friendly, cleansed stone and spring water accents give it a placid demeanor. There’s some honey but only as an oasis of relief, not an artificial sweetener. Red apple, pear, peach fruit solid, if unspectacular, slight swell in the center. Pleasing bitter nuttiness on the finish too. 88 points
Wright Cellars, Ken
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Carter Vineyard
Pinot Noir
1998
$37.99
12.0%
Crystal clear, the ruby color showing signs of mild bricking, holds its hue well through the rims. Pure, streamlined nose of cherry, raspberry fruit scents, stone and ash, very light lemon and floral aspects, good length given its lowkey demeanor. Medium-bodied, fills out well without losing lift. The acidity helps give it a jolt and activates the lemon, grapefruit citrus as well as elevates bright herbal notes. Stony and minerally in turn, displays a pleasing degree of terroir. Balanced throughout, freshly scrubbed and moderately juicy strawberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit stays present through the final moment. The tannins come through and anchor the finish too. 90 points
Beaux Frères
Yamhill County, Oregon
The Beaux Frères Vineyard
Pinot Noir
1998
$69.99
14.1%
Light violet to brick red hued core, successively redder towards the rims, adequate clarity. The funk in the nose isn’t quite merde nor horsehide, displays as much prune as cherry, black raspberry fruit, blends in cut grass and witch hazel notes too. Medium-bodied, texturally emphasizes the attack with a somewhat hollow mid-palate and short finish. Dry and tacky, clings to the tongue like glue. The tannins clump up in the middle, make a staggered cadence to the flow of the grapefruit, lemon citrus. Minimal oak left, some caramel and cocoa echoes. Menthol or eucalyptus help support the cherry, raspberry fruit yet still not able to do much. Again, dried out through the finish, allowing the alcohol more room to show. 86 points
Beaux Frères
Yamhill County, Oregon
The Beaux Frères Vineyard
Pinot Noir
1994
$39.99
14.5%
Red brick to blackish purple core, a very fine silt floats throughout, the crimson rims come with a decided orange tinge. Menthol, sulfur, saddle leather, orange peel bloom in the nose and set a turbulent stage before the cherry, blackberry scents can settle in, minor mocha powder notes help glue it down and smooth out. Medium-bodied, layers of dust and ash imbue it with some sense of place and character. The fruit has prune to raisin edges but the underlying cherry, raspberry flavors has enough of a candied nature to remain fresh. In turn, has a distinct earthy, grassy dampness to it that, err, grounds it well. No hollowness and keeps its weight through the finish. Cinnamon and clove spice bring out curious ham notes. Not elegant but grows on you. 88 points
Peillot, Domaine Franck
Ain, France
Montagnieu
Roussette du Bugey Altesse
Roussette/Altesse (grape synonyms)
2005
$21.99
12.5%
Immaculately shiny golden color, well-layered core with diminution unto transparency at the rims. Sweet nose of apple juice, apple juice and more apple juice, cinnamon spice, flowers and brown sugar, just sunny and happy. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, the acidity is wide and thick and demands that the sweetness in the apple, pear, peach fruit show tact and decorum. Still evinces a powdered sugar edge, much higher degree of lemon zest with a touch of lime too. Floral without spreading out too much, more a clinging dew. Remains bright and lively through to the end, Shuffles a bit more than you’d like but by no stretch leaden footed. 87 points
McCrea Cellars
Yakima Valley, Washington
Boushey Grande Côte Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$40.00
14.5%
Deep black purple core is of complete opacity, the rims are full brick red and betray a wine of advancing age. Extremely soft and concentrated nose of sugary, dried cherry, blackberry, and almost prune, consistency, well-buttered and with flowers and orange slices, every element works overtime to please. Full-bodied yet not very heavy, not to say it has spring to its step but has lost some fat and inches forward at a measured pace. Some cinnamon mixed in with the orange/lemon citrus, dried flowers, less butter and vanillin oak, traded off for a measure of perceptible grassiness. Steadiness remains the best hallmark of the cherry, plum, black currant fruit, sweet without being too so, flavors last from start to finish. Still today fruit dominated, while lacking in complexity does warm the belly. 89 points
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
1998
$50.00
14.3%
The dark purple core would achieve complete opacity were it not for a scarlet red infusion as well as its complete cleanliness, the rims are broad and more burnt red than ruby albeit the latter is there for sure. The nose has settled into itself like a stew on the third day, sacrifices clarity for more integration and intensity, the pine tree and eucalyptus still in the air, dried oranges and older potpourri, faint dusting of cocoa powder, the cherry and raspberry scents hold off for some time and have a hard candy concentration. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, close-woven but not rigid, presents more talkative florality and zestier white grapefruit and orange citrus. The tannins mellow with the acidity gently prodding things along. The cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit tart and shedding burl yet lasts through finish with ease. Tea bags, meadow straw and tree bark imbue it with a certain semi-herbaceous streak. This bottle more a mild intellectual workout than soak in a hot tub. 90 points
Garretson Wine Company
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
The Craic
Syrah
2001
$25.00
14.0%
More black than purple in the opaque core, the violet peeks through nearer the fat ruby rims where crimson red darkens things appreciably. The nose drips with super-ripe plum, cherry, blackberry fruit in addition to a palpable floral dew, maple syrup, faint whiff of bacon before it finally dissolves, very primary. Full-bodied, same experience in the mouth with cascading plum, blueberry, blackberry fruit and little to staunch the relentless flow. Orange zest, strong florality and some honey and molasses stay the sweetness course. The tannins are a bit lumpy and there’s not a lot here to provide clear structure. Not excessively oaky but what’s there stands in front of any game or earth elements. Persists pretty well through the finish, no real reason to complain there. If unvarnished fruit is your thing, thumbs up. 94% Syrah, 6% Viognier. (Synthetic cork) 88 points
Garretson Wine Company
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Rozet Vineyard
The Luascáin
Syrah
2000
$45.00
13.8%
Presents a dense cloud of ruby-purple in the core, opaque without seeming blockish or solid, the rims display lots of violet too, deepens the red magenta hues there. There’s an oily florality in the nose that’s hard to get past, minor touches of crispy bacon bits and orange peel, does not impress one with any development, the cherry, blackberry fruit comprise most of the non-floral scents. Medium-bodied, not taut per se but its boots are laced tightly, flows at a measured pace. There’s a strong sweetness to the attack with molasses, honey and caramel flavors dripped all over the blackberry, black cherry, blueberry fruit. The floral musk important here too but not as much as in the nose. Friendly orange, tangerine citrus and eucalyptus. Much less bacon or meat flavoring, more chocolate powder. Decent length on the finish with above average balance, no discernible heat, simply on the innocuous side. 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier. (Synthetic cork) 88 points
Fox Creek
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$34.99
14.0%
The purple core glows warmly and have a certain fuzziness which brings opacity, the rims are broad and crimson red with a distinct orange aura. The oak cream and butter in the nose have receded some in favor of dill weed, saddle leather and sweat, meadow flowers and dried orange peels, admirably the cherry, blackberry fruit scents hold off until every other bit has had their say. Medium-bodied, smooth and polished, the tannins well-worn like a pair of loafers, the sweetness of the plum, cherry, currant fruit upfront along with the orange citrus, mint and milk chocolate accents. After that the leather, tar and bark, grasses parts slowly elevate. Gets noticeably tangy near the finish, playing up the citrus and latent minerality. Nice integration and unforced, natural length. 90 points
Vieux Donjon, Le
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
2000
$29.99
13.5%
Very clear and collected, you’d need a microscope to find a blemish anywhere, at the core the purple has yielded to a black to red brick hue, more crimson red to orange as it inches towards the rims, sits confidently like it knows it’s handsome. The nose shows some heat at first before the gregarious raspberry, blackberry fruit scents, beef jerky, old potpourri and menthol take over, while not fruity per se doesn’t hit you with what it would take to consider it an advanced nose either. Medium-bodied, somewhat hollow in the mid-palate as well as short on the finish, as if it’s curling up into itself. The tannins are worked over, the acidity tame, the result being no one remembered to wake up the raspberry, red cherry, blackberry fruit. Lays there indolently as the lemon citrus, grass, mocha crisp, molasses flavors try to act in concert for a more arranged display. An OK drop if you have no real expectations, seems to be unraveling as it ages. 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah. 87 points
Prager, Weingut
Wachau, Austria
Dürnsteiner
Kaiserberg
Smaragd
Riesling
1998
$32.99
13.0%
Really dark orange amber color, no gold or yellow hue left at all, heavy translucency, if without blemishes, looks like an immobile block in the glass. The nose is as if glazed with caramelized brown sugar and honey, much more concentrated than sweet, orange and lemon reduction, mint and cinnamon, peach, apricot and apple cobbler, not horribly complex but everything on the table goes full speed ahead. Full-bodied, as spicy as sweet, cinnamon and clove lead the charge against the brown sugar. Here in the mouth the presence of the acidity favors the former, bringing a dry zestiness as well in the orange to white grapefruit citrus. Again, more weight and concentration in the nectarine, apricot, pineapple, papaya fruit than sugariness. Squares its shoulders and remains steady through the finish. Barest suggestion of petrol as it ends. 90 points
Wagner Stempel, Weingut
Rheinhessen, Germany
Siefersheimer
Heerkretz
Spätlese AP #11
Riesling
2005
$42.99
8.0%
Consistent golden straw color with flecks of green, slight bending of light lends it visual richness. Big and round nose similar to a rubber balloon, fills up from the outside in with powdered sugar, lemonade, ripe melon, pear, yellow apple, peach fruit scents, there’s some stone dust, but minimal. Medium-bodied, very bright and juicy, almost honeyed, with oodles of tangerine, lemon and lime citrus. In turn too there’s hints of milkiness, adds dimension and contrast to the sweetness of the apricot, peach, melon fruit. The acidity is almost delicate, helps keep it on balance throughout. Incredibly tactful and well-bred. 90 points
Selbach-Oster, Weingut
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Zeltinger
Sonnenuhr
Auslese Rotlay AP #14
Riesling
2005
$43.99
9.0%
The depth of the golden hue hints at a more amber future, just translucent enough to spread the color through the rims, not dull per se but lacking in luster, pools well. The nose has a pie crust flakiness with a dollop of fresh cream to it, the pie-like nature extends to the cherry, apple, apricot fruit scents, cinnamon spice and a floral mist keep the emphasis on the user, nothing rugged nor wimpy about it. Full-bodied, juicy enough to be bottom heavy, the liquid sloshes around across your palate without finding the exit. The lemon to pink grapefruit citrus tangy enough to help build a spine, packs in flowers way before the sweet baking spices and dough notes. The acidity needs a lot of time to successfully hack through the jungle of pineapple, nectarine, apricot, pear fruit but eventually does so. Has some swagger to it, should become more intellectually intriguing over the years to come. 90 points
Gunderloch, Weingut Carl
Rheinhessen, Germany
Nackenheimer
Rothenberg
Auslese AP #3
Riesling
2005
$46.99
9.5%
Yellow straw core with more bleached white straw hued rims, layered enough to haunt the middle ground between transparency and translucency, slithers in the glass. The nose is initially framed by oil, rubber tire and mineral shards, however, there’s a swift segue to floral reduction, caramelized brown sugar in addition to rich, if inexpressive, apricot, peach, yellow apple fruit scents. Full-bodied, appreciably sweeter in the mouth with bountiful brown sugar, molasses, cotton candy elements, the lemon to lime citrus has a soft drink quality to it. The avalanche of nectarine, peach, apricot, pineapple, cherry fruit kicks the acidity’s ass from dusk to dawn. Not much by way of stoniness nor minerality yet you get swept away in that torrent of fruit and hardly notice. Should gain complexity way down the road when all the fat is gone. (Screwcap) 89 points
Karthäuserhof, Weingut
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg
Spätlese AP #33
Riesling
2003
$31.99
9.5%
While it pools deeply there’s a certain flatness to the gold color, for whatever light reflects off the surface, an equal amount sucked in and extinguished below. Fizzy nose of club soda, wet mineral dust, lemon water, mixed cut flowers, there’s an imperturbable steadiness to the peach, pear, melon fruit scents, no bombast. Full-bodied, the sweet and sour lime, orange, lemon citrus carves out an active attack, you register it from the very start. While on the whole soft in texture, the acidity is able to adroitly mop up most of the sugariness in the apple, pear, peach, cherry fruit, making it just ripe and that’s it. The honey aspect bright, does nothing to diminish the aforementioned citrus. Minerally most at the end as reverb. More décolletage than cleavage. 88 points
Dagueneau, Didier
Loire, France
Pouilly-Fumé
Pur Sang
Sauvignon Blanc
2000
$34.99
13.3%
While it hints at an amber tint remains deep gold in color, holds the hue nicely through the rims, dusky translucency to it, just filmy, not dull per se. There’s a custard sort of creaminess to the nose, milky and doughy with pineapple, nectarine, green apple and pear fruit scents, yet there’s no denying the sauna stone smokiness, displaying much more florality than grassiness or citrus. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with a lot of concentration and weight remaining. Spicy with that tropical edge of pineapple, papaya, nectarine alongside the apricot, pear, apple fruit. Sufficient acidity here to keep a lot of the lactose, raw dough notes at bay. More lemon citrus too, equal to the level of flowers. that said, this is more of a flashy dancer than laser light show or steamroller, as long as the music’s playing it looks good, after that all bets are off. Can’t say it’s better than in its youth, just somewhat different. Which isn’t necessarily bad. 90 points
Altare, Elio
Piedmont, Italy
Langhe
La Villa
Blend
1997
$75.00
14.0%
The strong crimson cast to the core brings out more purple in what would be mostly black otherwise, the rims on the whole more red than ruby, good saturation. Floral spray infiltrates the nose, some caramel and coffee ice cream oak-inspired notes, ripe orange and tangerine citrus splash, the cherry, raspberry fruit scents possess a candied feel, not showing much development. Full-bodied, pressed down hard on the tongue at first but also intelligent enough to know when to lift up. While that coffee, butterscotch, toffee oak thing still going on unabashedly, the fruit remains the star of the show, plenty of juicy raspberry, cherry, blackberry flavor. That said, there’s a certain grainy quality to it so it’s not ultra-smooth, hard to peg this on any tannins. Here the florality most evident as it finishes. Yet another very good “red wine” that doesn’t express much more than that. Unspecified percentages of Barbera, Nebbiolo. 88 points
Etude
Regional Blend, California
California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1985
$55.00
No alcohol percentage on label
Dull black core with brown-red tones, the finest silt contributes to the opacity, the rims fully old brick and a tad washed out. “All appearances to the contrary,” the nose still bursts with plum, cherry, currant fruit, ripe and concentrated but not cloying, cedar, pressed flowers, dusty spices, leather and a murmur of sweet black licorice, satisfying all around. Medium-bodied, quite spicy and minerally through the attack with an emphasis on orange and lemon citrus as well as cedar shavings and horsehide. Those floral and licorice notes cruise through during the mid-palate. The tannins shaved down to a flat plane, however, the acidity can still pinch you hard. While certainly it’s lost some power, the plum, blackberry, cherry fruit easily reaches the finish and even displays some mannered restraint. Does lose some grip awhile after it’s been open for some time but it’s your own fault for not drinking it fast enough. 90 points
Noussan, Franco
Valle d’Aosta, Italy
Vallee d’Aoste
Pinot Noir
2005
$23.99
13.5%
The red core admits of more dull black influences than purple, flattens out to a semi-dilute crimson hue around the rims. Heavy funk of merde and sulfur at first in the nose which, thankfully, blows off into much prettier raspberry, red cherry fruit, pine cone and crushed dried flowers, never fully shakes that rustic earthiness but all the better for it. Medium-bodied, somewhat bottom-heavy with good traction on the tongue, leans hard on the lemon, orange, white grapefruit citrus through the attack. Very stony, the earth is like a few strata below the rocky surface, Has a light herbaceous streak but nowhere near interfering with the coalescing of a tight core of red cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit. Few would complain about weak tannins here, there at the beginning, middle and end, and with a trusty sidekick in the acidity. Rough in a country wine manner but not at all unmannered. 89 points
Grand Corbin-Despagne, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1998
$19.99
12.5%
Moderate opacity in the purple core, holds its darkness well into the red-ruby rims, adding a sense of stability, the surface betrays a flat sheen of reflected light. There’s a smidgeon of coffee bean and cocoa powder to the nose but it doesn’t strike one as unduly oaky, has heavier stone and mineral scents to lend a somber tone and the flowers, orange peel and red currant, red cherry fruit scents are all just entering the beginning stages of awakening from being asleep. Full-bodied, especially when given some air time the mouth has a more consistent completeness and, while not insanely complex, leaves you convinced the label correctly identifies the place of origin of the liquid within. Loam, forest brush, orange peel wildflowers, soft leather and hard stone bits settle in nicely through the mid-palate. The tannins lack bite but don’t lack punch for it, the acidity is the surprise here, ready to go toe-to-toe. Again, any mocha, cocoa, coffee notes minimal. The cherry, raspberry, red currant fruit steady if not spectacular. One might want to bet on more tertiary flavors developing before the fruit fades. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in October 2007
Roumier, Domaine Georges
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Pinot Noir
2000
$44.99
13.0%
The purple in the core quite light, cedes quickly to a deeper burnt red hue, the rims fully red with minor loss of intensity. Pretty floral perfume with sweet caramel notes in the nose, lemon drop and ripe cherry, strawberry fruit, dewy and youthful yet not without an element of forest floor earthiness either. Medium to full-bodied, flexes and spreads out eagerly in an even later across the palate. Displays a fair degree of tannin, perhaps a principal reason for its both closing in on itself some time after opening as well as shortening some towards the finish. Plenty of lemon peel, stone bits and dry topsoil. Despite its relative reticence every element has clarity and crisp contours. Leaves you suspecting that the cork was pulled a few years too early and that it will find its bearings in due course. 88 points
Moncuit, Pierre
Champagne, France
Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut
Chardonnay
1988
12.0%
big, fat bubbles move with haphazard speed, oddly accrue at the bottom of the glass before releasing, deep golden color shows its age, full throughout. Presents a yeasty nose with loads of baked bread, honey, caramel and orange peel notes, the apple and peach scents fit in seamlessly but at this juncture definitely play second fiddle. Medium-bodied, while it feels like it has lost some weight it does punch well, the acidity keeps it absolutely legit. The honey and toffee aspects more embellishing statements than overarching stamps. Thus, the sweetness is front-loaded and the white citrus zest and chalk and white mineral powder take over from there. Never quite achieves a linear regality yet there’s a well-bred defiance about it. The peach, apricot, apple fruit terse and succinct. 88 points
Pepe, Azienda Agricola Emidio
Abruzzi, Italy
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Montepulciano
1980
$144.99
13.5%
Grainy black core and I mean black, no color at all, the rims betray a hint of red but just as much yellow and black there too. Takes a long time for the funk to blow off in the nose and things normalize, then you get merde, roasted coffee beans, mocha, leather, cowhide, wet hay and roasted cherry, blackberry fruit scents, the shy and retiring shouldn’t stick their noses in the glass. Medium-bodied, far more agreeable in the mouth with more robust cherry, plum, blackberry fruit as well as zesty lemon citrus and floral dust. The leather, cow pattie, soil stuff in effect big time, at once makes it seem advanced but not old per se. Any tannins mostly resolved but the acidity can still sting with the best. The fine sediment adds to a dry and gritty finish, even as the fruit persists well. Offering quite a bit right now but not sure you’d want to push it much further. 89 points
Seidelberg
Paarl, South Africa
Roland’s Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002
$27.99
15.0%
The core is scarlet-black and, for all its opacity, clean and entirely unblemished, the blood red rims fresh and suggest tints of yellow or ochre. The nose first offers freshly churned butter, toffee and caramel, but as much to get them out of the way as for any other reason, the juicy black currant, cherry, blackberry fruit folds inside your nostrils like thick velvet drapes, saddle leather, metallic black earth and merde make the expected appearance along with a brush of bell pepper. Full-bodied, equally distributed across the palate with just enough tannic spine to keep the parts, err, apart and not a stew. The coffee, butterscotch, vanilla bean oak flavors last longer here in the mouth but, at the same time, the metallic earth and leather notes are elevated as well. Succulent currant, blackberry, cherry fruit mixes the black and red fruit aspects nicely. As with so many others of its pedigree, if you don’t like the effects of South African soils on a finished wine, you might want to hesitate here. Otherwise, very well put together. 89 points
Rollin Père & Fils, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Pernand-Vergelesses
Ile de Vergelesses
Pinot Noir
2000
$38.99
13.0%
Very clear blood red color with a blackish purple streak, while there’s virtually no change in the hue it does fade quite a lot at the rims. Black licorice, cough syrup, dried flowers and cracked leather fill up the nose most, the red cherry, raspberry scents direct to the point of brusqueness. Medium-bodied, firm tannins budge a little but just a little. This makes it some work to draw out the cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit, also turns the texture to a grainy quality by the mid-palate, drying it out appreciably. The lemon citrus, licorice, flowers and stone rubble do a gallant job of trying to fill in the blank spaces. That said, closes in on itself by the finish as well as in general hides rather than opens with air time, both sure signs of this being the wrong time to pull the cork. 88 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Knights Valley, California
Obsidian
Syrah
2002
$36.00
14.8%
The jet black core impenetrable and forces the purple hues to fight the ruby-magenta along the rims for space, remains youthfully vibrant. The stuffed with bountiful sweet blackberry, blueberry, raspberry jam, rich floral waves and warm caramel sauce keep this direction going, lemon custard as well, notes of Canadian ham like it got soaked in syrup runoff from the pancakes. In the mouth it’s full-bodied through the mid-palate before then shedding weight with speed. Along these lines, the sugariness in the blackberry, blueberry, cherry fruit expended in the first few moments, there’s still grainy tannin present but hard to finger this for the pulling up of the fruit. Maple syrup, toffee and cinnamon extend things some due to familiarity. Less floral here, more lemon to grapefruit zest and powdery earth. Baked ham as close to gaminess as it’s gonna get. Appears fuller at the end if you focus on its lift towards the roof of your mouth. 89 points
Failla
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Goldschmidt Vineyard
Pinot Noir
2001
$38.00
13.9%
Heavy murkiness favors the purple in the core although there’s arguably just as much red there, the brick red certainly fleshes out the gauzy rims, even mixes in some orange hues. Heavy nose, like a thick morning fog of cola, cinnamon, smoky, cooked in a saucepan cherry, black raspberry scents, wafts of orange to white grapefruit citrus, has close to zero lift thus the individual parts lack clarity. Full-bodied, sappy and bottom-heavy here too, borderline torpid. If you can shake it awake, all the cola, spice and mixed citrus spills out, here along with a streak of herbaceousness as well. Minimal acidity or tannins, density is its structure. Gooey richness in the cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit, like sticking a dozen fruit roll-ups in your mouth and trying to chew. Can’t say it has length as much as momentum. Makes its presence known. 88 points
Garretson Wine Company
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Hastings Ranch
The Graosta
Mourvèdre
2001
$20.00
13.6%
A fine sediment lends moderate cloudiness to the opaque purple core, also dulls the thick brick red rims even as richness of hue not an issue. Plummy, borderline grapey nose, with cassis and cherry jam scents, cinnamon, orange marmalade, potpourri musk, butter, that’s about it, folks. Medium-bodied, richer on the attack and sheds weight steadily throughout. The cinnamon, clove spice, milk chocolate and flowers match up with orange spice and a vague wooly quality to at least take up 10% of the room from the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit. Its sweetness short-lived, as the overall weight, not especially due to tannins, just tightens and pops past the mid-palate. Round and pliant, all smiles. (Synthetic cork) 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2000
$40.00
16.2%
The purple core dark with a hint of cloudiness, easily opaque, the crimson red rims fairly wide and betray flecks of orange. Orange zest and mint add moderate airiness to the denser plum, black cherry scents in the nose, milk chocolate and eucalyptus appear as well, light forest matter nuances, undone as it dissolves by strong alcoholic fumes. Medium-bodied, prune and raisin elements trump the fresher plum, blackberry, black cherry flavors. The chocolate, toffee and mint touches echo throughout, followed on by orange to lemon citrus. Sweet tea leaf and menthol gain traction past the mid-palate. What tannins or acidity were there are now thoroughly subdued, still there’s a dusty quality to the finish. The alcoholic heat a presence but nowhere near in the nose. Time to drink up. 88 points
Mitchelton
Victoria, Australia
Nagambie Lakes
Print Label
Shiraz
1998
$28.00
14.5%
The opaque remains mostly purple but it’s hard to avoid seeing red and brown shades through it, bricking nicely at the rims, richly hued while not embarrassed by showing age. The nose is extremely minty which gives it an airy quality, follows on with mesquite grill smoke, honeyed ham and a fair bit of floral perfume, the oak receding and the black cherry, blackberry scents hang on well through the dissolve. Medium-bodied, could be fuller but the acidity shaves a good deal of flesh away. Very minty here too, allows for orange zest, eucalyptus and chocolate accents first. Toasty oak, recedes into tart currant, cherry, blackberry fruit, good erect posture. Any meatiness comes across as well braised and glazed, more smoked than broiled. Tannins not really evident until the finish where you find your tongue awfully dry. Nothing overblown here, just tough-nosed determination. 88 points
Chantemerle (A&F Boudin), Domaine de
Burgundy, France
Chablis
l’Homme Mort
Chardonnay
1995
12.5%
Advanced golden color betrays its age somewhat, green flecks do add some youthfulness, transparent rims, overall on the dull side. There’s a good deal of milkiness at first in the nose, as it dissipates you get more dried oil, mint, flowers and wet chalk, not minerally per se, the green apple, pear, peach fruit very clearly contoured if not particularly long. Light to medium-bodied, remains linear despite the relative paucity of acidity. Lemon and white grapefruit zest, chalk dust and crushed stones infuse the attack, no metallic nor oily touches here. The green apple, peach, apricot fruit attenuated, as much skin and pit aspect as flesh. No honey but some baked pie crust notes. Can’t call it out-and-out oxidized but one foot on the banana peel. That said, doesn’t present many negatives, which in itself is a positive. May be time to drink them up. 87 points
Vedi Wine Factory
Ararat, Armenia
Khoran 1700
Areni
2000
$9.00
12.5%
Reddened violet at the core with a very slight change to red ruby around the rims, trim and without blemish, easy enough to see through. Juicy raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit in the nose, whispers of brown sugar, floral oil and lemon wedge briefly whiz by, nothing truly earthy nor leathery going on. Medium-bodied, dry from the very start yet round enough in feel to stay moderately soft. Milk chocolate accents sweeten and lengthen the raspberry, red cherry fruit flavors without it getting sweet per se. Tartly grassy rather than herbaceous in a sustained manner, blends well with the lemon zest. The fruit lasts past the mid-palate yet, as in the nose, once it’s gone not much steps up to take its place. As a result, more pucker at the finish than desired. 84 points
Vedi Wine Factory
Ararat, Armenia
Vedi
Areni
1998
$14.00
12.0%
Perfectly homogeneous red-violet from the core through to the rims, transparent and with above average surface shine. There’s enough concentration for sugariness in the strawberry, raspberry, cherry scents but short-lived as, even at 12.0% your nose fills with alcoholic fumes, slowly you can concentrate and get leather, witchhazel, grilled nuts and cowpatties, just not especially deep. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, not very different from the nose in that the cherry, raspberry fruit mostly front-loaded and evaporates by the finish. Lemon peel, cut grass, county road stones and dust, nothing about the tannin nor acid levels unusual but it’s awfully dry throughout, if not astringent at the end. All the elements are there for a basic red wine, just appears overcropped, underripe, something like that. 84 points
Ratzenberger, Weingut Jochen
Mittelrhein, Germany
Bacharacher
Posten
Spätlese Halbtrocken AP #12
Riesling
2002
$19.99
11.5%
Solid, if not showy straw gold color with its fair share of green hues, very good clarity, drops off big at the rims. Heavy cream, rubber, gas slick and lemon meringue most prevalent in the nose, salty, metallic minerals, cut grass, relentlessly fills your nostrils like it is not worried about being friends, yet quite honeyed, kind of sweetens the otherwise zesty peach, apricot, nectarine, pineapple scents. Full-bodied in an almost unexpected manner, very good traction while acidic in an easygoing manner. The green apple, nectarine, pineapple, apricot fruit crisp and clear, laser beam purity. The honeyed aspect much lower here, the lemon to grapefruit citrus edgy and bright, the minerality builds and builds to a breaking point, the finish ending up dustbowl dry. Comes across as a touch wound up and could likely use a few years to integrate further. That said, rocks today. 91 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Lauterbach Hill Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$45.00
14.5%
Basic red-purple colored core, bright crimson red rims remain of a youthful cast. The molasses, caramel, mesquite smoke, butterscotch, lemon drop scents command the nose, there’s a spicy and smoky influence in the yet juicy blackberry, blueberry, black raspberry scents, mint too, after all why not, minimal advancement in terms of earthiness or gamey qualities. Medium-bodied, feels like it has lost some weight, dips a little in the middle. The fruit just as juicy here on the attack, soft blackberry, raspberry, black cherry flavors, does fade as it moves along. The oak persists much longer, butter cream, toffee, molasses, brown sugar, devoid of crispness. Lemon juice and a smattering of stone towards the finish. Smooth ending, no real disturbance from tannins nor acidity. Basically the basics. 87 points
Bosquet des Papes, Domaine
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Chantemerle Vieilles Vignes
Grenache
1998
$36.99
13.5%
Minimal purple, mostly crimson red to orange in color throughout, excellent clarity with a sleek surface shine too. Presents a nose of freshly tilled earth, merde, cowhide and rubbing alcohol, barn full of hay bales too, backward enough that you barely register the raspberry, red cherry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, firmly tannic and acidic right out of the gate. Licorice, herbs, grass, lemon peel, just as it starts to sweeten, relents. This leaves the strawberry, red cherry, raspberry kind of in the lurch, doesn’t find its feet easily. Earthy with broken stone and grass but not out-and-out herbaceous. Have to assume it’s shut down or asleep on this day, needs quite a bit of softening. 88 points
Switchback Ridge
Napa Valley, California
Peterson Family Vineyard
Petite Sirah
1999
$53.99
14.5%
Onyx black core, completely opaque with full saturation and glow in the red-magenta rims, based off the surface shine must be spotless below. Super-sweet nose of molasses, honey, blueberry syrup, orange reduction, churned butter, mint, menthol, then more normal cassis, blackberry, black cherry fruit scents. Full-bodied, just dense enough to tighten up the flab in ye olde rubber tire around the middle. The tannins are uneven and don’t feel natural which oddly creates an ebb and flow feel in the candied, liqueur-like cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit. The oak is out in force, butterscotch, butter, toffee, molasses steamroll through. Minty as well. No substantial leather nor earth elements, just fruit, oak and brute force. Not sure it has changed since its youth. 88 points
Coulet, Domaine du
Rhône, France
Cornas
Les Terrasses du Serre
Syrah
2004
$45.99
13.0%
Semi-cloudy, adds to the opacity of the purple core, extremely dense magenta-ruby rims. Very herbaceous nose, to the point of bitterness, mix in stones and dried earth and it is surprising it has the lift it does, orange peel slowly activates the cherry, currant, blackberry scents, fairly swift dissolve. Full-bodied, lots of merde, flatulence, olive paste with a aerating presence of menthol. Strong and persist grassiness. Tannic as well as acidic, lean and mean not an ounce of fat on it. Mouth full of stones, pebbles, dried earth, the fruit comes across as slightly underripe but what is there in the cherry, raspberry flavors lasts throughout. More open here than in the nose yet could still use enhanced expressivity. 87 points
Bosquet des Papes, Domaine
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
1999
$19.99
13.5%
While dark the clarity is evident from the start, the black red core seamlessly transitions to the crimson rims, brown and yellow hues also show through clearly. In the nose there’s a prolonged initial burst of leather, animal hide, merde and wet black earth, slowly and surely run down by sugary raspberry, red cherry, blackberry scents, some pine scrub but minimal oak remaining, more lift than power at the end. Medium-bodied, has smoothed out but more than enough rough patches left to grip well. The tannins show power, by the mid-palate clamps down on the cherry, raspberry fruit. The lemon peel, olive pit, leather, grass and broken stone elements try to clear their throat but never fully achieves this. Rugged but not unforgiving, seems to need more time to find its bearings. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, etc. 89 points
Ravenswood
Sonoma Valley, California
Rancho Salinas Vineyards
Blend
1998
$29.99
13.9%
A slight murkiness darkens the already opaque purple core, the blood red rims move deeply into the middle. Soft, airy nose, gently unfolds milk chocolate, mint, raisin, cherry, blackberry scents, then blood orange and fresh cedar extend things some, however, overall naturally comes to a swift dissolve. Light to medium-bodied, some spine without appearing especially tannic, comes across as a nicely broken in pair of boots, comfortable but not soft. The cherry, plum, blackberry fruit sweet yet dissipates way before the finish. This leaves an oaky graininess behind in texture even if the toast and cocoa flavors remain mild. Some orange zest here too, but not enough to lift through the finish. A product of the vintage perhaps. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot. 86 points
Mount Eden Vineyards
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Old Vine Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1990
$50.00
The blackness of the core aided by a very fine silt, brownish hues bring it towards the old brick red rims, yellow at the outermost edge. Initially there’s a cheesy quality to the nose but as it opens you get sweet cedar, cinnamon, mountain scrub and camphor, the red currant, cherry fruit semi-dusty yet has very good length. Medium-bodied, holds its weight from start to finish. Begins with pine, menthol, orange zest and cocoa dust. While the tannins have stepped into the background the acidity still carries a sharp boxcutter. The red cherry, red currant, raspberry fruit has a tough guy demeanor, however, keeps giving through to the end. Not a blockbuster but very masculine and not backing down yet. 90 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Mendocino County, California
Alder Springs Vineyard
The Terraces
Syrah
2002
$75.00
15.2%
Offers a black-purple block plopped into the middle of your glass, only after the ripples settle does the ruby-magenta to violet hues flesh out the rims, no problem making a visual impression. Cinnamon, clove, grill smoke, molasses and orange glaze fuel the nose, once the oak toast stabilizes you sense olive pit, stone and game gristle notes, a floral perfume smears the contours of the cherry, blackberry scents, folds in on itself. Medium-bodied with a steely skeleton that holds it in place throughout, good tannins and acidity. However, one could say that it’s the density that holds it in place. The immobility of the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit a steady glue. Floral with an orange zest and pine notes but not intense. The caramel oak element crests in the middle. This could use some time. 94% Syrah, 6% Viognier. 90 points
Saint Cosme, Château de
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1998
$49.99
13.5%
Cloudy but glows like a lighthouse spotlight through the fog, mostly purple core on the reddish side, the rims full brick red with a light orange tint, no loss of hue intensity. High-toned nose of dried beef, olive paste, metal shavings, grass, old grapefruit rinds, this leavened some by strong nuances of cocoa and milk chocolate, the tart raspberry, cranberry, red cherry scents not faded but don’t leave impression they’re immortal. Light to medium-bodied, the acidity has the brawn to keep everything shorn to a minimum. The oak is very toasty and crisp, the butter and chocolate notes make a splash and are quickly gone. Fairly herbaceous, mixes in well with the stony earthiness. The lemon and grapefruit citrus has a zesty edge, adds more focus and less richness to the dried meat component. As in the nose, the cranberry, red cherry, plum fruit finds a low flying level and cruises throughout. More energy than serene balance. 89 points
Baumard, Domaine des
Loire. France
Savennières
Chenin Blanc
1996
$14.99
13.5%
Pale white-yellow straw color with a good green influence, quiet surface, fully transparent rims. The nose relaxed, lemon honey, candle wax, mint, orange marmalade give a friendly clasp to the pear, apple, peach fruit scents, nothing here has fallen off, more sunken deeper into the couch. Full-bodied, if slightly hollow, bitter hay, lemon peel, stones and spring water make up the mouth entry. After that the passing honey sweetness activates the peach, pear, apple, cherry fruit for a moment. Then it’s a slow unwinding of it all towards the finish, some dried fruit concentration too. This leaves the stoniness out alone, which some may prefer. The acidity is above average but that’s it. A good wine that would disappoint few. 87 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$45.00
14.2%
Mostly purple core, red influences there and into the bright ruby rims, minimal sign of aging. Cedar, tobacco, wildflowers, pine slowly fill your nostrils, the plum, black currant scents somewhat block-like, the vanilla ice cream and caramel oak notes fading, each statement clear but not very long-winded. Medium to full-bodied, the tannins broad and firm yet not excessively drying, the plum, currant, cherry fruit very steady and full without much expressivity. The milk chocolate, mocha, graham cracker oak flavors are not over the top and easily matched by tobacco, cedar, menthol, orange zest accents. Tingly, if not quite peppery, texture during the back half breaks up some of the homogeneity. Nice and chewy and a real mouth filler but not there yet in terms of development. Grapes sourced from the Morisoli Vineyard and Herb Lamb Vineyard. 89 points
Barde-Haut, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1998
$28.99
12.5%
Completely black core, you only notice the grainy silt at the very thin brick red rims, and even that’s from like an inch away. The nose isn’t shy about its popcorn, caramel, cocoa powder aspects, beyond these oak influences there’s well-extracted currant, cherry, plum scents, more thick than juicy, mildly floral, nothing else being laid out for your enjoyment, displays minimal tertiary development. In the mouth it remains full-bodied and produces layers of black currant, blackberry, black cherry fruit, enough so now to suppress that caramel popcorn and fried butter oakiness. Here you get some stoniness, as well as dollops of lemon peel, tea leaf and dried potpourri. Has sufficient tannic structure to escape wimpiness. Just doesn’t strike you as a wine that was willing to make early sacrifices for more glorious golden years. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 88 points
Pradeaux, Château
Provence, France
Bandol
Mourvèdre
1985
$40.00
13.0%
The core is really black, no purple to be had, the rims all brown and yellow, very clear, no filminess at all. Lots of merde and wet wool in the nose, wax, salted dried beef, herbaceous like fallen forest matter, the plum, cherry fruit has lost a step but lasts easily through the dissolve. Medium-bodied, features a tangy mouth entry with tangerine and grapefruit citrus notes as well as cut grass and mineral elements. Softens some with licorice, cough syrup accents but only to a point as the general earthiness and leathery qualities are keeping this to the far side of rustic. The tannins appear resolved but the acidity has a few kicks left in it. While matured, the plum, blackberry, cherry fruit makes a credible showing easily past the mid-palate and the finish is by no means empty. Makes you chew it but not in a bad-natured way. Nice showing for the regular bottling. 89 points
Syren
Central Otago, New Zealand
Pinot Noir
2001
$26.99
13.5%
The purple barely darkens the crimson red color, while very clear not especially vibrant, there’s autumnal oranges and browns peeking through here and there. The nose is light enough to let the herbaceousness carve out a large percentage of what’s going on, cola, mocha and lemon zest do its thang, the red cherry, raspberry fruit consistent but don’t hit many high notes, not oaky but by the same token not earthy nor stony either, four-square as a result. Medium-bodied, at once able to let the acidity express itself while striving to feel velvety in a slutty way, just about pulls it off but no. Rich and settles onto the tongue like a blanket, you squirm as it wraps around you. Lemon peel, cola, cocoa, anise, pretty enough to prevent the cherry, blackberry fruit from getting too sluggish. That said, it’s made to shout rather than murmur and it’s a waste to look for dialogue. Just stick the earplugs in and enjoy the show. 87 points
Fontenil, Château
Bordeaux, France
Fronsac
Blend
1998
$18.99
13.0%
The purple core remains youthful, opaque without much blackness, the brick red rims bright and show little sign of excessive advancement. The nose comprised mostly of currant, cherry fruit and mocha, coffee bean led oak notes, some menthol and mint mixed in there, Cali in drag, minor tobacco or lead shavings to be had, hard to find many mature scents. Medium-bodied, fuzzy in texture, like it was agitated, the tannins pocked and uneven. not very capable of sustained drive. This granted, the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit pushes forward with all it has and more or less emerges unscathed. Touches of lemon citrus and twigs help it, again not a great quantity of earth, leather nor tobacco. The cocoa and vanilla oak persists in the background. The finish isn’t short but it telegraphs the end and delivers on what it says. Getting on there. Mostly Merlot, remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. 88 points
Kanu
Coastal Region, South Africa
Kia-Ora Noble Late Harvest Limited Release
Hárslevelü
1999
$18.99
Amber brown in color, looks like a glass of iced tea, bright yellow rims, minimal shine but odd color catches your attention. The nose is very earthy and savage, tar, volcanic ash, pigskin, metal shavings, surprises you when the apricot and nectarine paste scents arrive, closes with spiced apple notes. Medium-bodied, while noticeably sweet it remains fluid and that earthiness prevents it from getting too sticky, tar, rubber, metallic minerals and burnt straw. Hints at creaminess before the spiciness trumps that, then the smokiness really takes over. Fried lemon peel and dried powdered flowers sap the excess juice out of the dried fruit apricot, peach, nectarine, pineapple fruit. Without going too far out on a limb, one of the more terroir-driven dessert wines to taste. Naturally, you have to like South African terroir. 375 ml bottle. 90 points
Trinoro, Tenuta di
Tuscany, Italy
Palazzi
Blend
1998
$89.99
13.5%
Gets just into opacity, but just, the purple core strongly influenced by a red tinge, the rims fully crimson to blood red in hue. Your nose gets filled with velvety plum, cassis, blackberry fruit, mocha crisp and orange zest match well, while there’s lingering oak toast not “oaky” anymore, develops a floral touch through the dissolve. Medium-bodied, feels like it has lost some concentration, perhaps for the better as it flows nicely and there’s light drying graininess which ensures it’s not to fast. Floral with heightened lemon and orange zest flavors, more fluffy meadow scrub than earthy or forest floor elements. The plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit sweetened by a dusting of cinnamon and nutmeg. Very pleasing without asking much of you. 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot. 88 points
Scott Paul
Monterey County, California
Santa Lucia Highlands
Pisoni Vineyard
Pinot Noir
2001
$40.00
14.1%
Filminess pushes the core into opacity, just as much ruby as violet, this in turn makes the rims redder and hinting at a touch of orange, hue remains full throughout. Very friendly nose, sweet and thick, layers the floral musk, cinnamon, cola, orange spice into your nostrils, the raspberry and red cherry fruit has great concentration yet also at times shows a green apple element and dissolves with an outdoorsy freshness. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, however, not fat nor overextracted, just fleshy and unembarrassed about it. Lots of cola, suggests mint and mocha, the lemon and orange citrus remains more juicy than tangy. After the completely ripe red cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit parades about there’s a slight metallic edge. Smooth finish, not especially long but leaves your mouth clean and without unwelcome residue. More pleasurable than profound, no complaints here. 90 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1995
$29.99
12.7%
The blackness in the purple core deepens it but it really lacks the density for complete opacity, the crimson rims spread widely, accompanied by the start of an orange tinge. The nose remains mostly thick slabs of plum, black cherry and currant fruit scents, the oak toast receding some, replaced by dill weed, orange spice and leather, gains a pine-driven lift as it dissolves. Full-bodied, here the oak cream really helps it put on the pounds and fill out with mint, vanilla, caramel flavors. The dill aspect sticks around but not as much as in the nose. The tannins have more of an enveloping grainy quality than punch. No lack of cherry, plum, currant fruit, more spiced up than out-and-out juicy. Mixed citrus as well as eucalyptus enter through the finish. At once doesn’t strike you as especially advanced nor as going to turn into more than what you have. Which, frankly, ain’t bad. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in September 2007
Pax Wine CellarsMendocino County, California
Alder Springs Vineyard
Syrah
2002
$55.00
14.9%
Onyx black, sucks light into such that it reduces any surface shine, the razor thin ruby rims appear to be developing some red brick tones but too thin to tell. Moderate eucalyptus and pine in the nose but smells more medicinal than anything else, burnt cocoa and oak toast preponderate, touch of dried flowers and then straightforward plum, black cherry fruit scents. Full-bodied yet sheds its weight swiftly after the attack to a point of lightness at the finish. Not especially tannic yet lacks flow, stops and starts haphazardly. The layered thickness of the plum, black cherry, black currant fruit attempts to overcome this, however, it’s not getting much aid from the orange zest, flowers or pine elements. Remains oaky, cocoa, mocha and butterscotch, more burnt than creamy in nature, this component all but fully represents the flavors through the finish. 87 points
Vine Cliff
Napa Valley, California
Oakville
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$69.99
14.2%
Fully impenetrable black-purple core bespeaks of serious extraction, the razor thin crimson to blood red rims not so much attractive as attracting. Fairly explosive nose of seriously ripe black currant, plum, cherry fruit as well as eucalyptus, licorice, orange blossom and other flowers, well-proportioned but ever-present burnt butter and smoky oak notes, ends with more angular green apple notes which pique your curiosity. Medium-bodied, velvety smooth even as the tannins follow their instructions to knock over the lawn furniture and potted plants. Sweet mesquite smoke, caramel, butterscotch and vanilla fudge lets you know ownership did not skimp on the oak, yet keeps an edge and not too creamy. No letdown anywhere in the currant, black cherry, plum fruit, sheets of sweetness. You get cedar, leather and loam through the finish. Predicts what you want before you know you want it and delivers. 89 points
Turley
Napa Valley, California
Tofanelli Vineyard
Charbono
2001
$25.00
14.0%
Noticeable black infusion darkens the purple core, the thin dark ruby rims a sign of its continued vibrancy six years on, light glimmers across the surface. The leather, animal hide, kindling wood and generalized oak toast remain the majority of the nose, however, the plum, cherry, blackberry scents make their point without much resistance, some grassiness but not much else going on even though you suspect it wants to produce more complexity. Medium to full-bodied, its weight an aggregate of many components. In terms of oak there’s burnt toast, caramel, molasses yet this has indeed fallen back into the morass of general flavors. Ripe plum, cherry, blackberry fruit splashes against whatever it finds. The saddle leather, damp animal hide parts persist throughout, the cocoa powder noticeable at turns. Much better than in its youth. 88 points
Rousseau, Domaine Armand
Burgundy, France
Gevrey-Chambertin
Clos Saint-Jacques
Pinot Noir
1999
$120.99
13.0%
Fully consistent red-ruby to violet color from core to rims, dark with moderate transparency, zero hue loss around the rims. Has a light leathery, merde-like funk to the nose, relieved some by lemon peel, cinnamon stick, anise seed notes, the raspberry to red cherry fruit scents possess density yet curiously lack the staying power you expect. Full-bodied, the funk persists into the mouth with wet earth, horsehide, merde but the sheer prettiness of the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit wins the day, candied, sweet and here long. Lemongrass, mineral dust, ginger root and cocoa powder remain in proportion to each other and play off each other nicely. Fairly meaty, chewy finish, who needs restrained elegance when you can have this kind of enthusiastic power? 91 points
Coche-Dury, Domaine Jean-François
Burgundy, Franc
Puligny-Montrachet
Les Enseignères
Chardonnay
1999
$259.99
12.5%
Dim golden color flattens the surface shine, the rims totally faded and devoid of color. Very precise and planned out nose of fresh butter, caramel, lime juice and white mineral dust, calmly collected pear, green apple, peach scents, not a full orchestra, more a well-run chamber group. Medium-bodied, sexy in a calculated intellectual fashion, it would not show itself on stage unless it was 100% certain the appearance would be perfect. The lime to lemon citrus goes well with the finely grained oak toast. To its credit, the acidity does an admirable job of focusing the peach, apricot, pear fruit, at times to a vanishing point. The tight, linear finish more than capable of covering up any missteps along the way. 90 points
Kalin Cellars
Sonoma County, California
Cuvée DD
Pinot Noir
1995
$47.99
13.7%
Very red in base color, prevents the core from being truly violet and brightens the garnet rims toward a deep orange. Tilled earth, camphor, moth balls, merde, grassy gases and stone percolate through the nose, there’s a reduced quality to the cherry, blackberry fruit scents, more medicinal than dried fruit, feels like someone stuck a baseball bat up your nose and twisted hard. Medium-bodied, the acidity woke up angry and lashes out randomly. Prune and raisin flavors match the black cherry, blackberry elements, in spite of it being highly herbaceous. Cutting lemon citrus too, mineral shards and bitter oak, everything here full of reckless energy. Has great rise through the finish, like an open sewer manhole. No gray area, love it or hate it wine, mark it on the calendar weeks before opening so you can prepare mentally for it. 88 points
Laureau, Damien
Loire, France
Savennières
Le Bel Ouvrage
Chenin Blanc
2002
$29.99
The color remains deep yellow straw, minimal amber shades, loses a lot around the rims. Lemon, orange citrus bounces through the nose, minerally to a great extent, boisterous pear, apple, peach fruit, has a light lanolin to beeswax edge, while dense not overly expressive. Medium-bodied, has very drying acidity but this is broad and diffuse enough that it cannot focus nor refresh much. Plenty of sweet spices and orange zest, turns a bit more herbaceous past the mid-palate while never close to being dominant. Steady as it goes peach, apricot, melon fruit. Good length, has found its groove early in life and sticks with it. Not such about longer term prospects. 88
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
1999
$50.00
14.8%
The fully opaque purple core could appear blacker were it not for the high sheen on the surface, the ruby rims showing signs of light red bricking but not dominant yet. At first black pepper and grapefruit drive the nose but as it opens there’s more caramel popcorn and glazed ham, in addition there’s a steady flow of floral mist and the black cherry, blackberry fruit scents provide a steady, unobtrusive back beat. Medium-bodied, here in the mouth the floral dimension even bigger, the caramel, butterscotch oak notes also make an impression during the attack. The tannin appears to be settling in, helps the smoothness of the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit. More pulses than steady flow of white grapefruit, eucalyptus, grill smoke and kindling wood ashes. Finish more about definition than eking out a few more inches. 91 points
Latour, Domaine Louis
Burgundy, France
Corton-Charlemagne
Chardonnay
2001
$69.99
14.0%
Quite pale-green-gold color, mostly transparent and fades more along the rims. While the nose has a pleasing creaminess there’s also unsettling notes of sour milk, then you get lemon custard, mint, ham, clay an brick dust, the green apple, peach, pear fruit adequate to the task, overall the scents not especially persistent. Medium-bodied, feels like it’s lost weight, grip loosens as it progresses. Not a great deal of acidity, thankfully the oak toast and cream has lessened as well. Lacks clarity, more a soup of lemon peel, mint, licorice, iced tea and floral perfume. Adequate, if unremarkable, peach, pear, apricot, apple fruit. Doesn’t drop off unexpectedly at the end but follows a clear downwards angle. 87 points
du Mazel, Domaine
Rhône, France
Vin de Pays de l’Ardèche
Le Mazel Cuvée Briand
Grenache
2001
$19.99
13.0%
Cloudy, unfiltered ruby color with traces of purple, while full in the core it nears transparency at the rims, especially as the cloudiness cannot bolster things. Bretty, merde-like notes bloom in the nose and cloak the sweet prettiness of the raspberry, strawberry fruit scents, in turn the grassiness masks the lemon citrus and floral scrub. Medium-bodied, good natural concentration in that strawberry, watermelon, raspberry fruit, enough so to get it easily past the mid-palate without losing its grip. Sappy mouth feel too, sponges onto your mouth pores. The herbal qualities keen edged and biting, more in line here with the lemon citrus and stone elements. Never sheds that funkiness entirely, good in its own way yet not allowing you to just sit back and enjoy it. 87 points
Scavino, Paolo
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Rocche dell’Annunziata
Riserva
Nebbiolo
1999
$139.99
14.5%
A filmy glow deepens the red-purple core, the scarlet to blood red rims spread broadly and are extremely well-saturated. The nose is curiously light and airy, a kind of tutti-frutti blend of watermelon, strawberry, raspberry fruit, pine breeze and dried flowers with little rumble below. Medium-bodied, sweet and candied, the tannins hold off and hold off and then finally click in to manage the sugary cherry, strawberry, watermelon fruit. Caramel, toffee add to this side of things, moderate leather or cedar shades but noticeably lacking in secondary or tertiary flavors. Relatively innocuous and inoffensive wine but “Barolo,” especially at this price, is the last thing to come to mind. 87 points
Gerin, Jean-Michel
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Les Grandes Places
Syrah
2000
$99.99
13.0%
Completely opaque purple core, definitely showing silty sediment, while thin the dark ruby rims remain well-hued and full. The nose goes every which-a-ways, rubber, burnt oak, driftwood ashes, sandalwood, wet animal fur, the cherry, currant fruit never falters yet. at the same time, doesn’t crest. Full-bodied, has very credible acidity but cannot really fight off the toasty oak, all caramel and mesquite smoke. The bacon fat notes also have this sweetly glazed side. This fits well with the richer cedar, tobacco leaf, tea leaf, orange zest elements. The tannins more or less pulverized, even at this semi-early stage. Has minerality but it sadly requires an overly active imagination to make it count. Very modern in style, if you’re down with that, not bad. 88 points
Pichon-Longueville Baron, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Blend
1995
$48.99
13.0%
Good density in the purple core, not particularly opaque, the full red-crimson rims also have excellent clarity. Tobacco, cut grass, wet cedar, orange peel, there’s attractive heft without showiness in the currant, cherry scents, never tightens up as it could. Medium-bodied, there’s abundant tannin yet the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit able to keep pushing energetically and even able to hack through the leather, tobacco, bell pepper, tar and cedar elements. Texturally has an odd softness which belies the tougher demeanor in the merde, earth, graphite parts and suggests it’s in a semi-closed state. Overall, has nice balance and a restrained character, not letting itself go with ease. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Fürst, Weingut Rudolf
Franken, Germany
Bürgstadt a. Main
Centgrafenberg
QbA Trocken AP #15
Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)
2004
$50.99
13.0%
Red-ruby to orange-garnet in color, shows great fullness through to the rims as well as above average clarity. Very grassy, tarry nose with notes of graphite as well as charcoal, almost like an air purifier filter, borderline wooly, black pepper too, light enough to open up and let the red cherry, raspberry scents float away, on the whole grows on you. Medium-bodied, sheds weight as it progresses and the acidity clamps down. Biting lemon citrus, cut green grass soften into anise seed, dusty flowers, increasing merde shades as it moves forward but doesn’t turn into earthiness per se. The cherry, cranberry, pomegranate fruit might appear short yet gain length by pairing with the herbal, minerally kick. As active as an 100 watt bulb in your eyes, lots of energy but you’re not sure how to react. 88 points
Williams Selyem
Russian River Valley, California
Allen Vineyard
Chardonnay
2004
$48.00
14.8%
Basic golden color, that said it maintains good depth of hue through to the rims, lacks shine but this doesn’t seem to matter here. Very creamy nose, spice and lactose without seeming unbearably oaky, displays lemon Pledge openness and green and red apple, pear and peach fruit scents, minty dissolve, for all its richness, freshness more its hallmark. Full-bodied, the oak cream and vanilla flavors not as shy here, fills up both the attack and mid-palate. The pear, apricot, peach, green melon fruit all juicy without giving up firmness. Sweet ginger, cinnamon spice and lemon/lime citrus keep it pushing relentlessly forward. No complex solos, just about the steady back beat. 90 points
Jost, Weingut Toni
Mittelrhein, Germany
Bacharacher
Hahn
Kabinett AP #6
Riesling
1998
$49.99
9.5%
Nice glow in the green-gold color, pleasingly consistent hue if missing in shine, fades a little around the rims. The nose is salty at first then slowly turns creamier, no lack of minerality and lemon peel though, goes back and forth, sweetens with mint and finally settles into some peach, apricot, pear, scents. Medium to full-bodied, very ripe here, the peach, apricot, pear, red apple upfront and not shy, explodes through the attack. Then the acidity seriously clamps down and becomes a total road grader until the finish. The orange, tangerine, lemon citrus a major component. Stone, chalk and streamwater present, not arch nor overtly drying but always on hand. Bit by bit your mouth gets drier, parched by when you swallow. More tropical pineapple and nectarine notes at the end too. Amazingly both easygoing and complex at once. 1.5 liter bottle. 92 points
Vergelegen
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Cabernet Franc - Merlot
Blend
2000
15.0%
Black as night at the core, the red brick rims are spotlessly clear and lose not an iota of vibrancy. The nose has this rapid cascading feel, doesn’t let the good nor the bad scents register fully, it’s a wash among the toasty oak, coconut custard, vanilla scents and currant, cherry scents, the mint and wild herbs don’t do much to steady things, the bell pepper, black pepper and vegetal matter scents billow through the dissolve. Full-bodied, the sappy nature of the black cherry, black currant, blackberry fruit make it seem, why, black. As smooth and juicy as the fruit is, it can barely hold off the bell pepper, assorted herbaceous notes, same for the toasty oak and cedar qualities. The tannins and the acidity both appear unsure of how to best proceed. The lack of cohesive leadership lends itself to a staggered finish, no real flow. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Franc, Merlot. 85 points
Ridge
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma
Zinfandel
1991
13.6%
Remarkably clear ruby-purple color, consistent throughout, strong rims and plenty of surface shine. There’s rum raisin, blood oranges and eucalyptus in the nose, the raspberry, cherry fruit paled enough for some alcoholic heat to show, getting a little leathery too but its inner sweetness returns time and again. Full-bodied with good pacing for its age, at once first hits you with a strong vanilla creaminess as well as a burly tannic push. Amazing life left in the sweet red cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit, has length too. This does have to contend with the leather, animal hair and raw menthol elements but does so well. The tannins mostly absorbed however the acidity capable of biting. There’s some stewed tomato and metallic notes at the very end but some licorice and orange peel too. A revelation at this age. 75% Zinfandel, 25% unspecified percentages of Carignan, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet. 88 points
Lamarche, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Vosne-Romanée
Malconsorts
Pinot Noir
1999
$79.99
13.5%
Pretty and squeaky clean crimson to brick red in color with purple thrown in to slightly darken the hue, otherwise completely consistent from core to rims. The nose is curiously mute, the cherry, raspberry scents simply stated, even the earth, herbaceousness, tea leaf and lemon peel notes light of touch. Medium-bodied, remains fairly tannic and acidic, not overly dry but close. Clipped feel to the cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit, short. Borderline grassy, not deeply herbaceous enough to demand your full attention but never goes away either. Has a bit of smokiness but no lift. Tough-minded, beyond that not kind of “minded” at all. 86 points
Sales, Château de
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1998
$25.99
13.0%
Surprisingly clear and transparent, of scarlet red color, more or less consistent with more orange coming through at the rims. Thick, billowing nose of cedar, leather, sandalwood, orange spice, candied cherry and raspberry fruit scents, turns at hard angles at it progresses and enjoyably so. Medium-bodied, on the dry side but not dried out, the cherry and blackberry fruit has retained most of its initial sweetness, no fruit bomb but it’s all there at the finish. Leather, cedar, tar, kindling wood, orange peel nuances, not particularly complex but has all the tertiary flavors you’d want out of it, remains a QPR champ. Smooth but not too so, cruises without fearing any bumps in the road. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Chandon de Briailles, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Corton
Les Maréchaudes
Pinot Noir
1999
$49.99
13.0%
The purple foundation about equaled in intensity by the crimson red element, crystal clear and sparkling rims offer pure blood red color. In the nose the power in the cherry, black raspberry fruit scents allows it to break through the damp earth, straw, merde, almost black olive scents, with time it’s more floral with a light orange citrus notes. Full-bodied, tannic in a good way, makes the wine even chewier and rustic, not very drying per se. Sweet, ripe black cherry, blackberry fruit, very dark and keeps grinding forward. Earthy, twiggy, loamy with a keen metallic edge. Adds in cinnamon spice, orange pekoe tea and tar for a little contrast. Very active in the mouth, swirls energetically. Not a wine for those who desire ethereal Burgundy but if you want a mouthful, here it is. 92 points
Ramonet, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Chassagne-Montrachet
Boudriotte
Chardonnay
2000
$54.99
13.5%
Possesses very good clarity and comes with an extremely strong green tint, enough so to fend off any signs of aging, moderate paling along the rims. The nose stands at attention, full of crisp toast, fried butter, grilled nuts and lime zest, the peach, apricot fruit more relaxed than the former, allowing the minerality to come to the fore. Medium-bodied, has a lot of weight but it is all on the bottom like an anchor while above the boat rolls with the waves. Overall, has shed fat and the oak mostly knit into the fabric, the toast, vanilla and honey roasted nuts a major component but not clumsily dominant. Fine enough acidity, brightens the lime, tangerine citrus and reducing unnecessary sweetness. As in the nose the apricot, pear, peach, melon fruit at once subtle and persistent, metronymic consistency. Stony soil and mineral bits most present as aftertaste. Does not present a reason to not drink it now. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in August 2007
Mongeard-Mugneret, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Fixin
Pinot Noir
1995
$20.99
13.0%
Bright and utterly unblemished light purple to cough drop red in color, the red-orange rims feature just about as much yellow hue. Wet grass, mushroom, tea leaves and licorice swirl about the nose, good measure of funk to be had, presents a sour thrust in the cherry, red raspberry scents, growing more angular as it sits in your nostrils. Medium-bodied, framed equally by acidity and tannin, nice array of orange, lemon, white grapefruit citrus, lots of minerality too. Glimmer of tomato skin but this gets swallowed in an herbaceous foundation. Gritty, dimpled texture in the cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit, stands up for itself nicely. Nothing too dramatic here but pleasurably rustic without trying too hard to do so. 89 points
Latour, Domaine Louis
Burgundy, France
Corton
Château Corton Grancey
Pinot Noir
1999
$63.99
14.0%
Transparent red-ruby to light violet in color, red-orange rims, well-integrated throughout. Ripe red cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit driven nose, swipe of lemongrass, restrained earthiness and grassiness, larger dimension of sweet spices. Full-bodied, rich but not heavy yet you always feel its presence. Spice, caramel, toffee notes add to the body, pleasingly manages to avoid impairing the prettiness of the red cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit. The tannins thick, non-obtrusive while a solid presence, the acidity adequate. Tree bark, dried mushrooms and a touch of stone drift in and out, remains primary but not insipidly so. A crowd pleasing wine which retains its roots. Grapes sourced from Les Bressandes, Les Chaumes, Les Pougets, Les Perrières and Les Grèves. 89 points
Powers
Columbia Valley, Washington
Mercer Ranch Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1995
13.0%
Fully black purple core, sucks light in like a black hole, very integrated with the ribbon thin brick red rims, no loss of color depth. Powerful leather, horsehide aspect to the nose, like a sweaty baseball mitt, the vanilla cream aspect blows off quickly in the face of this, mint and cooking spices last longer, the black currant, black cherry scents evince little diminishment. Full-bodied, although it’s throwing a lot of sediment and has a silty texture the tannins remain erect and muscular, not a wine that takes bullying. Cedar, ginger, dried flowers and mint give it pleasing freshness, the oak all but fully knit in and there’s no herbaceous nor bitter notes to be found. The currant, blackberry, cherry fruit does tail off slightly during the finish, about the only evidence of its age. Tangy finish, the acidity elevating and refreshing. Really like where it’s at now. 89 points
Equus
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Mourvèdre
1999
$17.99
13.0%
Red ruby to lighter purple core, flat magenta rims of good width. The nose percolates with buttered popcorn, takes some time to acclimate to this and get at the bright red cherry, strawberry fruit scents, only slightly wooly or flowery. In the mouth it’s on the rough side, in addition to the popcorn, burnt toast flavors from the oak the wood tannins add a lot of unevenness and dry patches. The cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit still sweet and tangy but unable to speak without getting interrupted. Cut grass, lemon to orange citrus and a credible amount of stony brown earth help bolster the mid-palate and sustain a sense of character. Gives you twist on the finish and makes you gulp it down in one go rather than flow at a more collected pace. Not sure just what kind of oak treatment it got but would have been more interesting with a more judicious hand in this department. 85 points
Parador
Napa Valley, California
Red Wine
Blend
1998
$42.00
14.2%
Not cloudy as much as fuzzy, adds darkness to the crimson-purple core, very burnt red rims with an orange tinge. There’s an odd plastic-like edge to the nose which is unfortunate because beyond that and the toasted oak and grill smoke notes, there’s rich, ripe currant, cherry, blackberry scents and a fresh leathery quality. Medium-bodied, the tannins and acidity average at best, still on the whole dry and smoky and burnt. The oak has all this roughness and little creaminess. The plum, cherry, blackberry fruit gains a better hold here but still sweats getting to the finish line. Orange spice, flowers and ginger spice provide some makeup through the end. Serviceable. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon (Hossfeld Vineyard), Sangiovese (Weitz Vineyard), Tempranillo (Rhinefarm Vineyard). 85 points
Sciulun di Gabutti Vilma (Azienda Agricola Giacomo Conterno), Cascina
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Bussia Munie
Nebbiolo
1996
$38.99
13.5%
Enough blackness to create a pond-like murkiness, not opacity per se, then faded red rose to yellow-orange around the rims, not exactly washed out in appearance. Mushroom, driftwood, rose petals, soft leather, forest lichens and other growth give it the nose you want, more so hints at sweetness in the cherry scents than delivers, has a fullness around your nostril walls than middle but not hollow. Light-bodied without coming across as faded, more fallen back into itself. Lemon to white grapefruit citrus matches the floral side and able to bring out the acidity from under the tea leaf, cedar and more sluggish leather parts. The cherry, raspberry fruit a credible guest through the mid-palate. Certainly not a heavyweight, nor even a middleweight, instead just the right sparring partner for a solid workout. 89 points
Note: This is not a wine made by Azienda Vitivinicola Giacomo Conterno. The winery is now called Azienda Agricola Franco Conterno but their website does not explain why this 1996 wine was labeled as Giacomo Conterno.
Saint-Pierre, Château
Bordeaux. France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1989
12.5%
Black-purple core, the clarity comes out as this turns to more scarlet to garnet tint around the rims, no lack of hue anywhere. The nose thick and block-like, inert tobacco, forest matter, pigskin, wet wooden ember smoke, very little soft or pliant, the cherry to currant fruit scents blunt unto being clipped. Full-bodied, takes on weight the more air time you give it. Again, roughhewn and backward, all tobacco leaf, bell pepper, damp earth, leather and black smoke without any regard for cozying up to you. The tannins remain in the driver’s seat and to kick any unruly passenger off the bus. Mutterings of orange peel or pressed dried flowers. The cherry, blackberry, black currant fruit sinewy, persists through the finish. Possesses admirable relentlessness, the kind of wine that brings pleasure similar to that of a dog chewing on its favorite discarded old sneaker. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Graillot, Domaine Alain
Rhône, France
Crozes Hermitage
Syrah
1996
12.5%
Dull black red core, opaque in spite of its age and well-concentrated through the broad crimson rims. Tar, rawhide leather and dried beef make for a light yet insistent nose, trimmed down red cherry, currant fruit scents, becomes more peppery during the succinct dissolve. Light to medium-bodied, nicely matured tertiary flavors compensate for lost heft, a broad array of white grapefruit, mineral dust, dried bacon, cut grass. The heavily smoked red currant, blackberry fruit trails off towards the finish. The tannins mostly relaxed with the acidity doing the heavy lifting. A tactful wine, matured to the right place but don’t push it further. 89 points
Burgaud, Bernard
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1987
12.5%
Blood red to light blackened purple in the core, not dark as much as dusky, fades some at the rims towards a mixture of red clay and orange. There’s a metallic smokiness like scorched earth to the nose, dried beef jerky, grapefruit pith, wet dog, flowers pressed into a book two decades ago, the cherry, red currant scents crest and fall without a regular cadence. Medium-bodied, there’s no avoiding the kick still left in the acidity but that’s not why the body has fallen off, just old mister time. Tree bark, lemon peel, black tea, tar and licorice mutter into the night. There’s a faded concentration to the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit, like pages of an old book stuck together. All things considered, holds together decently through the finish. Leaves behind an herbaceous, tapenade residue at the end. 89 points
Fox Creek
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$49.99
14.5%
The black and purple bruise of a core makes it entirely opaque, the scarlet rims vivid enough to avoid such obscuring power and allow you to see through them. Chocolate chip mint ice cream, crushed blackberries and cherries stuff the nose, the oak appears to have fallen off a lot, any eucalyptus as well, oddly though, no tertiary notes have stepped up to replace them making it more or less pure unevolved fruit. Full-bodied in a very sluggish and bottom heavy manner, like it’s running underwater. While evidently ripe, the sweetness and length of the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit has taken a strong blow, most enjoyable during the attack and moments thereafter. Even the mint and flower petals shadowy now. The tannins have power but not in a supporting fashion, more wood shavings and dust, along with a certain bitterness. Does keep pushing hard through the finish but it’s all weight and few integrated flavors. A wine that makes an impression not an impressive wine. 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2002
$40.00
16.1%
Flat purple core, easily opaque but not much to look at, the rims have taken on a worn brick red appearance, not light but not especially vibrant. The nose features eucalyptus, white grapefruit and a swift peppery bite before turning the mic over to densely concentrated plum, black cherry fruit scents, on the whole limber yet possessed of as much soft flesh and muscle. In the mouth it’s certainly full-bodied and slow to awaken but by the same token, its pace lets you soak in it for a good extended period. The tannins show moderate tooth and pair up with a certain bitter herbal bite, after which the sweet spices, white grapefruit to orange citrus, pine, menthol and more muted flowers take over. A splash of caramel and toffee all that remains of the oak, good job of knitting in. It sneaks in some green apple and strawberry notes alongside the more ponderous cherry, blackberry, plum fruit. The peppery dimension not as strong as in the nose. Remains seductive now but perhaps was better with all its youthful verve in effect. 89 points
Pride Mountain
Regional Blend, California
Merlot
1999
$54.99
14.1%
As dark as the night while blindfolded, impenetrable enough to even hide any sediment or cloudiness, while dense the ruby rims have lost a little bright intensity. The nose first swells with caramel coated popcorn before relaxing into eucalyptus, mint, robust cherry, blackberry fruit and floral musk, knit together well. Medium-bodied with enough heaviness remaining in the tannins to create a lasting pressure on the tongue. Credit where it’s due, this has come together nicely, balancing earthiness, mountain country air, pine, cowhide and dried wildflowers with caramel, butter and spice. Upfront the ripeness of the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit easily accessible, unravels mildly through the finish. Wouldn’t hold onto it that much longer but noticeably complete right now. 93% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. 61% Napa County, 39% Sonoma County. 90 points
Blanc (Dr. Parcé), Domaine du Mas
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Collioure
Cuvée Réservée
Blend
1993
12.5%
While clear, its age is obvious, no luster in the dull crimson to purple core, no intensity in the orange to brick red rims. The nose is inert, undisturbed dust of wool, earth, anise seed and hay, the cherry, raspberry scents faint, boosted some by a quick burst of lemon citrus. In the mouth it’s light-bodied and faded, has held onto a hard candy kind of sweetness in the raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit yet there’s not enough fruit per se to enjoy it fully. Quite dry with dusty tannins and the kind of desiccated wooliness that bespeaks of a high Mourvèdre percentage. Not herbaceous, not earthy, not leathery, echoes of them all. Some life in the orange, lemon citrus. Traces of oxidation overcome any brett or reductive notes. Tomato skin and metal through the finish. Dear friend, you held onto this too long. Unspecified percentages of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Counoise. 83 points
Gebhardt, Privatkellerai Ernst
Franken, Germany
Iphöfer
Burgweg
Spätlese AP #64
Müller-Thurgau
2000
12.0%
Deep amber to bronze color, more orange than yellow, gets the light twisting and turning to avoid transparency, strongly hued rims. The density of the material in the nose keeps it plowing forward but there’s not much expressivity in the pineapple, papaya, nectarine, peach fruit as well as the tangerine rind and mineral water, lacks even an herbaceous bite to wake you up. Medium-bodied, possesses a pleasingly layered feel, at times quite creamy. The acidity has more blunt power than a cleansing effect, as a result there’s too much sweet concentration in the pineapple, green apple, nectarine, guava fruit flavors. The higher level of herbaceousness welcome here and pairs better with the mineral water component. There’s some good parts here, but the whole starting to unravel. 85 points
Saxum
San Luis Obispo County
Paso Robles
James Berry Vineyard
Bone Rock
Syrah
2002
$56.00
15.9%
Onyx black core but not necessarily blockish in appearance, broad scarlet red rims suggesting a middle aged wine. Molasses, caramel, milk chocolate bloom first in the nose, followed on by floral musk, the chalk and stone powder suck out a good bit of the juiciness of the black cherry, raspberry, blackberry scents, clings tenaciously to your nostrils. Medium-bodied, feels like its shoulders are broad but has lost some flesh and thinned down. The tannins play up its spiciness, ginger and molasses, hint of cedar, comes across as mostly wood tannin, overall knit-in well. The cherry, blackberry, boysenberry fruit remains sweet and juicy from start to finish. Maple coated raw bacon notes come and go. The more you sip, the more prevalent the oak cream and mint. Might improve for a year or two but in a good spot now. 88% Syrah, 12% Grenache. 89 points
Wirsching, Weingut Hans
Franken, Germany
Iphöfer
Kronsberg
Grosses Gewächs Spätlese Trocken AP #74
Riesling
2004
$49.99
13.0%
Brilliant white straw with a solid green tinge, completely transparent rims, excellent surface shine. Crystal clear, forceful nose of mineral water, stones, razor sharp lemon/lime zest, comes up with a brief burst of flowers, despite the compact evanescence of the apple, pear, green melon fruit scents maintains a long presence. Medium-bodied, the acidity nips more than clamps down, lets the tangerine, pink grapefruit citrus really sparkle while never ceasing to focus on limestone, cave water aspects. Enjoyable momentary burst of honey helps to tease out the nectarine, green apple, pear fruit. Continues to twist and turn through the finish, never feels out of control. 91 points
Schönborn, Domänenweingut Schloss
Rheingau, Germany
Erbacher
Marcobrunn
Erstes Gewächs QbA AP #34
Riesling
2004
$40.99
13.0%
Highly polished shine in the yellow gold color, fairly blinding, the color fades miles before the rims but who would notice with the shine? The nose comes up with rubber, dried oil, lemon pledge, lime pie, honey, pine touches, doesn’t offer complex nuances but hits you hard with what it has, hint of milk too, no real registering of nectarine, papaya, pineapple scents. Medium-bodied, spreads out like netting, rubber and wet minerals make the initial splash. Here the lemon and white grapefruit citrus more lowkey, rounder apricot, peach pear fruit fills out the center. The dried honey takes the rough edges off the acidity yet the latter not to be discounted. The finish comprised mostly of rocks and stones, keeps its weight to the point where the flavors may be besides the point. Lots of flash, not much lateral movement. 89 points
Keller, Weingut
Rheinhessen, Germany
Dalsheimer
Hubacker
Grosses Gewächs QbA Trocken AP #23
Riesling
2004
$52.99
13.5%
Very light, bright day-glo yellow, not richly hued but has warmth in addition to vast surface reflectivity, washes out around the rims. The nose is closed and reticent, motor oil, mint, lemon reduction, floral musk, very little fruit, a modicum of pear, yellow apple, apricot scents. Full-bodied, extremely heavy on the citrus, biting lime, grapefruit, tangerine making it difficult to register much else. Suggests honey on the attack but doesn’t deliver throughout. Has a certain oiliness as well, offers as much sheer texture as flavor. Florality blossoms before any traction appears in the peach, apricot, pear fruit. Doesn’t come up short, just the gears grind to a natural halt before it hits the back of your throat. 88 points
Van Volxem, Weingut
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
QbA AP #1
Riesling
2002
$16.99
11.5%
Shows a good orange streak to the yellow gold base, at some angles mixes in green as well, looks mature even as it holds onto a fair bit of reflectivity. Fresh nose, almost unsure how to fit in the lactose notes, lacks the florality or citrus bite to truly lift but willing to leave the peach, apple, apricot fruit behind to get there. Medium-bodied, the acidity not entirely under control and channeled, the milkiness can be sour and the lemon peel as well alternately sweet or sour. The pear, apple, apricot fruit lacks depth but remains capable of an initial flourish. Bitter herbs and grass take over on the back end but they don’t seem out of place. Honey does a little bit to fill out the middle. Comes across as a striver versus a wine that knows itself. 86 points
Weil, Weingut Robert
Rheingau, Germany
Kiedricher
Gräfenberg
Erstes Gewächs QbA AP #42
Riesling
2002
$49.99
13.0%
Unblemished pane of glass appearance, yellow hay color, completely transparent with borderline beached out rims, brilliant surface. Firm creaminess to the nose yet releases well the floral oil, lemon/lime citrus, oiled sharpening stone, has immense weight with a dustiness that almost makes you sneeze, the apricot, pear, red apple fruit gets it turning rounder as it dissolves instead of stabbing. Medium to full-bodied, has great extract and weight without heaviness not sluggishness. Floral, the pink grapefruit, lime, lemon citrus provides most of the lift. This supplemented by a pleasing grassiness, this also activating the stone element. Grows in stature the more you sip it, grip gets stronger. Not that complex and of average length, more of a slow and steady steamroller. 89 points
Molitor, Weingut Markus
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
QbA Trocken AP #10
Riesling
2004
$22.99
11.5%
Straightforward yellow straw color, nothing distinct about it, dilute enough to fade appreciably way before the rims. Very airy and loose nose, gets caught in any breeze, quite lemony with lime too, the minerality does take on a liquid-like quality, angular peach, apricot, pear scents, would be hard to discern if not for the breezy perfume. Medium-bodied, highly acidic with a bowl-you-over approach, no subtlety. Rum raisins, lemon drop candy, petrol, little here to give you a warm hug, the acidity rubs you the wrong way intentionally. The pear, apple, melon fruit slightly attenuated and brusque but not weak per se. Dustiness accrues until it becomes most of the pressure on the tongue through the finish. Tough minded but not incapable of love. 87 points
Hexamer, Weingut Helmut
Nahe, Germany
Meddersheimer
Rheingrafenberg
Kabinett AP #13
Riesling
2004
$21.99
9.5%
Basic golden color that diffuses light just enough to escape complete transparency, pools well in the glass and does not display much contrast between core and rims. The nose plays games with you, on the one hand hitting you with stream water, lemon peel and washed stones while on the other hand conveying a custard like creaminess and flower water that pulls it downwards rather than lifts, by the time you get peach, red apple, pear scents it’s an afterthought. Full-bodied, slathers itself onto your tongue while at the same time giving a consistent enough acidity to make it move forward if not with the most erect of bearings. Lime, lemon, tangerine citrus does give it life, even with the fruit pie character. Peach, guava, papaya, nectarine fruit too sweet to be truly “tropical” but comes close. Mint, flowers and other pretty things (ohh, those pretty things) but it’s strongest attribute is its gentle insistence in hitting your pleasure center. (Screwcap) 89 points
Schmitt-Wagner, Weingut Carl
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Longuicher Maximiner
Herrenberg
Kabinett AP #9
Riesling
2002
$22.99
8.0%
Clear, like a still glass of water, only around the rims do you even get a touch of yellow-brown straw, and that’s at a decided angle. The nose has an easygoing sugariness to it, lime and lemon soda with light saltiness for counterpoint, possesses a floral lift that unrolls slowly and steadily, loosely knit enough that the excess sweetness bleeds out of the pear, apricot, peach scents, primary yet. Medium-bodied, soft without much acidity, soaks in like your cheeks are a sponge, that said the vibrancy of the tangerine, lime citrus nicely frames the mouth entry. It suggests milky notes at times, and the sinew starts to fall off the bones past the mid-palate. Repeats the standard apricot, apple, pear fruit in the mouth, not taking pains to be expressive. erect enough to satisfy purists while smutty enough for newbies. 88 points
Hexamer, Weingut Helmut
Nahe, Germany
Meddersheimer
Rheingrafenberg
Spätlese* AP #12
Riesling
2002
$24.99
8.0%
OK, nothing to really be discerned from the yellow gold color, average concentration and capable of diffusing light and clouding anything viewed through it, not much difference at the rims. There’s some milkiness in the nose, bready as well, not flat nor sluggish, more so reluctant to bring out the pineapple, green apple, apricot scents as well as lawn grass and wet earth, takes awhile to do it but does dissolve with more mineral water notes. Full-bodied, pushes being chubby, not to assert that there’s no acidity but it’s not quite up to the task of conducting this orchestra. Pie like consistency to the lemon, lime, tangerine citrus, factor in the lactose notes and brown sugar glaze and you better like it sweet. The apricot, peach, nectarine, guava fruit there when you want it. Doesn’t need all the makeup it wears. 87 points
Christoffel Erben, Weingut Joh. Jos.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Erdener
Treppchen
Auslese** AP #9
Riesling
2004
$34.99
7.5%
A fine glow bolsters the lighter yellow straw hue, average surface shine with good consistency through the rims. Fresh and sparkly lime, tangerine, pink grapefruit invigorates the nose, obscures the more fine mineral dust and stone powder, clear contours in the peach, apricot, yellow apple, green melon scents, elements tied together nicely. Medium-bodied, sweet attack with honeyed notes and some vanilla pudding dashes, the acidity tries to damper this but too powdery and uneven to do so. Flip-flops with the apricot, peach, nectarine, melon, pear fruit dominate here and the citrus salad a second place finisher. That honey to molasses coating persists through the finish. Not grassiness per se but there’s some garden herbs and wildflowers to be had. Integrates by design, not so much by a desire to do so itself. Short finish. 88 points
Lieser, Weingut Schloss
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Brauneberger
Juffer Sonnenuhr
Auslese AP #12
Riesling
2004
$29.99
7.0%
White to yellow hay color, holds the light well but more or less transparent, reflectivity makes up for hueless rims. Even with the abundance of florality in the nose as well as golden honey and orange blossom, there’s not a lot of activity, this attributable to the indolent richness of the apricot, guava, pear, green melon scents, sweetly smoky but everything here supine on the floor. Full-bodied, there’s an initial charge of acidity but after that it’s all kaleidoscopic flavor with good sweetness infusing the lime and tangerine citrus in addition to the peach, apricot, nectarine, cherry fruit. Honeyed, brown sugar, mint and flowers, coats the tongue and yet that original acidic thrust able to resurface and dry out the finish. Nothing here you can’t mindlessly soak in. 90 points
Mönchhof, Weingut Robert Eymael
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Erdener
Prälat
Auslese Goldkap AP #10
Riesling
2002
$49.99
8.0%
Has a basic green-gold color, reflects nicely off the surface while at the same time sucks in enough light to dull, prettier from a distance. The active swirl in the nose gives it more richness than might truly be there, airy golden honey, ground flower petals, lemonade/limeade, broadly spreading peach, apricot, pear scents sink into many nostril crevices, quite primary. Medium-bodied, smooth and with enough softness to blunt the acidity. This then allows the honey and brown sugar elements to rule the roost, does add weight to the nectarine, papaya, pear, mango fruit flavors. Have to say, the tangerine, lime citrus is seriously sweet too. Utter lack of evolution plus the dulcet nature leaves one concluding that it’s not especially complex yet damn seductive. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2007
Palmer, Château
Bordeaux, France
Margaux
Alter Ego de Palmer
Blend
1998
$44.99
12.5%
Brick red in equal proportion to any purple in the core, brightens into vivid scarlet rims, has that “red wine” look to it like a print ad. Still fills your nostrils completely, cedar, moist leather, tobacco leaf, touch of ginger spice, the vibrancy extends through to the raspberry, red cherry and fluffy potpourri scents. Medium-bodied, good traction in the mouth, somewhat filmy texture but settles into itself and cruises forward without many bumps. Perfectly acceptable cedar, tobacco, tea leaf, orange blossom components, keeps an equal balance with the cherry, red currant, blackberry fruit. The tannins have been through the grinder but quite evident that they are probably going to outlast the fruit. Helluva good drink today. 67% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon. Second label of Château Palmer. 89 points
Saint Cosme, Château de
Rhône, France
Gigondas
Blend
1998
$22.99
14.0%
Slight filminess to the brick red to violet core, just turns successively redder towards the rims with some intensity loss. Menthol, cough syrup, wet fallen leaves, merde infuse the nose, sour cherry, raspberry, cranberry scents, not herbaceous more like vegetables, the slow rise in your nostrils masks the lack of bottom. Light-bodied, has really shed weight in an almost shocking manner. White grapefruit, pine, stone, leaves, leather, does a quality job of presenting an array of advanced flavors yet in the end still a mile wide and inch deep. There’s a remainder of a sweet candied feel to the raspberry, red cherry fruit. The tannins and acidity both seem beaten down some, flattened like veal. Casts shadows on the wall. 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Cinsault. 85 points
Clos Mimi
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Shell Creek Vineyard
Syrah
1997
$50.00
14.2%
Black edge to the crimson-purple core, rust tinged rims, almost hinting at orange, no filminess but necessarily sparklingly clear either. Pine, mountain scrub, stony earth in the nose then a big blast of popcorn, caramel and maple syrup, some flowers but this element unevolved, basic cherry, currant, blackberry fruit scents. Full-bodied, especially during the attack, does shed weight as it progresses. The tannins are layered like sawdust on a barroom floor, highlights the dried out nature of the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit. Average leather, cedar nuances, at least enough to outscore the toffee, burnt toast flavors. Turns dilute on the finish, getting drier and drier. 86 points
Moët et Chandon
Champagne
Brut Rosé
Blend
1999
$63.99
12.5%
Big smokestack of bubbles right down the center of the glass, billows, curious coloration, just about as much orange as pink, noticeably dark. Blunt nose of rose hips, apricot, cherry fruit and a slight edge of dried lemons. Full-bodied, the bubbles do little to cleanse and the acidity is somewhat low. This produces the effect of highlighting the unusual apricot, peach fruit over the more expected apple or strawberry flavors. Not a great deal of stoniness nor minerality but can’t fault its cleanliness. Comes up with that lemon peel thing during the mid-palate, nothing here approaches bitterness. Not the most delicate nor nuanced Champagne, primarily of interest for its brawn and thick texture as well as the unexpected fruit flavors. 48% Pinot Noir, 26% Pinot Meunier, 26% Chardonnay. 86 points
Pichler, Weingut Rudi
Wachau
Weissenkirchen
Achleiten
Smaragd
Riesling
1998
$36.99
13.5%
Gleaming yellow zinc color comes with a touch of green, does fade some at the rims but nothing major, no blemishes but plenty of tartrate crystals. The nose displays a matured profile of bread dough, tire rubber, orange marmalade and floral musk, all the scents too lazy to lift, curiously the apricot, nectarine, pineapple scents the freshest. Medium-bodied, has shed weight and maybe turned a bit hollow in the center. Spicy and prickly with a semi-syrupy texture, what’s there works hard. The tangerine to white grapefruit citrus slices and the rubber here takes on a smoky edge. The apricot, peach, pineapple, passion fruit flavors semi-faded, hence the drop on the way to the finish line. Increasing milkiness at the end too. 87 points
Dry River
Martinborough, New Zealand
Pinot Noir
2000
$58.99
13.5%
Throwing a considerable amount of chunky sediment, even after standing up in preparation there’s a murkiness to the purple core, if not for this filminess the red-ruby rims would appear more youthful. Spicy nose with supporting herbaceousness and white grapefruit zest, has this medicinal cleansing effect going on, stable cherry, black raspberry fruit scents avoid highs and lows. Full-bodied, while it has a lot of weight and downward pressure it doesn’t come across as especially structured, the tannins and acidity about average. The spice here paired with some mocha powder and toast yet the herbal qualities and lemon to white grapefruit citrus roll over them effectively. Twiggy, dried tea leaves too. Doesn’t develop a clear speaking voice and, as a result, ends on the shorter side. 86 points
Weinbach, Domaine
Alsace, France
Cuvée Laurence
Pinot Gris
2001
$48.99
14.0%
The rich golden base imbued with a strong orange zinc tint, nicely layered, does lose intensity along the rims. The nose seems reluctant to express itself, inertly dense apricot, peach paste, fruit pit, raw nuts, orange peel, the minerality hard too, little powdery character. In the mouth it’s more agreeable, full-bodied and expansive. While on the whole dry and with admirable acidity, the concentration of the apricot, peach, nectarine, pineapple fruit fills the palate from start to finish. Ginger and cinnamon spice blend with tangerine zest to activate things further, does sort of dampen the more delicate florality. Stays on point, handles its weight with agility, little wasted motion as it brings things to a conclusion. 90 points
Turley
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Ueberroth Vineyard
Zinfandel
2003
$48.00
16.0%
While gauzy, the purple core nowhere near opaque and virtually just as red in hue, this definitely extends the red-ruby to garnet rims nice and widely. In the nose there’s some initial vanilla crisp, mint and toffee yet it’s not especially oaky, open meadow floral breeze to it, the raspberry, cranberry, strawberry, red cherry scents agile and long, mixes in a white grapefruit flourish at the end that lends energy and length. Medium-bodied, more compact than opulent, that said, what’s packed in there is a lot of flavor. The lemon to white grapefruit citrus a touch sweeter and more in step with the vivid ripeness of the red cherry, raspberry, boysenberry, cranberry fruit. The oak creamier here, vanilla, milk chocolate, caramel but none the more dominant. The tannins provide adequate framing to produce pine, menthol, earth elements and focus the finish. While has lost some weight since it’s youth, better for it. Drink deeply, no sense waiting. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2007
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Blanchots
Chardonnay
1999
13.0%
Basic gold color, pretty reflectivity, fades out around the rims, not much to look at. Butter, butterscotch, mint, orange sherbet create a downy soft nose, as it opens there’s sharper salt and powdered mineral dust, the oak toast spice integrated while keeping its edge, the fruit a blur more than distinct scents. Medium-bodied, the acidity much stronger than expected, tends to wash out the pear, peach, apricot fruit by the mid-palate. Somewhat herbal, slight florality and dried lemon peels. Here the oak is more abundant, not excessive yet more a noticeably major element. Active in terms of raw energy but not in terms of flavor. It’s alright. 85 points
Zind Humbrecht, Domaine
Alsace, France
Brand
Riesling
1997
$62.99
14.0%
As much amber as dark glowing yellow, given the richness of hue remarkably clean and transparent and otherwise youthful in appearance. The nose evokes fat and squishy rubber toys then pie crust, dried pineapple and juicier nectarine, apricot, guava fruit, waft of something like garden herbs and pine cones, either not especially developed in terms of tertiary scents or just not gonna ever have them, probably the latter. Full-bodied, a real juice bomb, sloshes around inside your mouth, spreading vivid pineapple, nectarine, peach, mango, pear fruit, likely more fruit as well but so mixed together it’s hard to parse out. Vanilla and banana custard also apparent, toffee glaze, and tangy lemon to tangerine citrus. The acidity is average, does what it can and no effort to do more. Tastes “Alsatian” but no real sense of place beyond that, remains a big puppy dog that occasionally gets sloppy. Very good extension through the finish. 89 points
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1995
$29.99
13.0%
A crimson red influence permeates the purple core, on the clear side except for a fine silt sediment, the rims full of vigorous red hue. Cedar, bell pepper, tobacco, freshly tilled brown topsoil begin to fill the nose and the currant, cherry, blackberry scents ensure it’s amply stuffed. Medium-bodied, here in the mouth it’s actually the acidity which keeps it fresh and pares the currant, blackberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit into fighting form. Not to say that the tannins are not sturdy themselves. The bell pepper, herbal qualities persist but more integrated in the mouth, Sweeter cedar and tobacco soften many rough patches, orange spice but even with a good decanting it’s susceptible to a mid-palate clenching. Creates a pleasing inner mouth perfume which helps to fill out the finish some. Starting to reward patience but, really, a couple more years are warranted. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Chivite, Bodegas Julián
Navarra, Spain
Gran Reserva
Tempranillo
1988
$29.99
12.5%
Brick red to crimson core, almost hints at brown, the broad rims become red-orange to outright yellow. Blowsy funk in the nose of mushroom, cedar, dried potpourri, without any undue sweetness there’s a pruney edge to the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit scents, an herbal dissolve helps it lift in the nostrils. Medium-bodied, pinpoint acidity prickles the palate and brings out lemon citrus before the cedar and dried flowers and before the sour red currant, cherry, raspberry fruit begins to bubble up energetically. Leather, old wood, smoke, oil, wet tobacco leaf all play a part. The tannins are well knit-in. Sets the bar high early and then continues to meet it, finishes strongly as a senior in a marathon. 90 points
Méo-Camuzet, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Les Didiers
Hospices de Nuits Cuvée Jacques Duret
Pinot Noir
2001
13.0%
Strong red-purple core, equally vivid red-ruby rims, nicely full and well-hued. The nose offers pure raspberry, red cherry, strawberry fruit, rugged stone bits, grass, lemon, a touch of sulfur, very straightforward and without guile, just does a few things well. Medium-bodied, the tannins are somewhat harsh, pile it on during the attack so that it takes some time to get at the cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit. Dusty and loaded with crushed stone to chalk, add in some herbaceous bite and hard to find a place to sit and relax. The potential is there but right now the lemon peel and dried flower components unable to provide any relief. Good wine, needs food. 88 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Grenouilles
Chardonnay
2000
$42.99
13.0%
Simple green-gold color, fades way before the rims, average appearance at best. The nose presents a pretty floral mist, mandarin orange and yellow apple, pear, peach, apricot fruit scents, light dusting of chalk, has a sinewy nostril texture but not especially complex. Medium-bodied, spicy and not especially smooth, cement grit and saline with peach pit, apricot, pear, apple sprayed with lemon juice. The grip in the acidity kind of brings things to a sudden halt. Almost hints at turning grassy but relents, producing a peace offering of violets, lilacs instead. Seems like it could benefit from focusing on fewer things and doing them well. If supplemented with even just a little bit of food should show better than on its own. 88 points
Plaisance, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1998
$33.99
12.5%
Fully saturated purple core, not exactly black but definitely opaque, the rims now a burnt scarlet red, having shed most of any youthful ruby brightness. The nose packs a solid punch, too densely woven for noticeable complexity yet there’s leather, tobacco leaf, wildflowers and menthol as well as a pleasing lack of oak toast, the plum, black cherry, blackberry teases with showing a dried fruit character but doesn’t fully let it bloom. Full-bodied, the tannins remain heavy set and drying while at the same time mature enough to release a good deal by the mid-palate. The cherry, currant, blackberry fruit broad, without the juiciness to unnecessarily cloak the cedar, tobacco and tea leaf, wildflowers and orange peel. Stays nice and fat through the finish, probably 1-3 years away from its drinking apex. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. 89 points
Jamek, Weingut Josef
Wachau, Austria
Ried Schreiberberg
Smaragd
Grüner Veltliner
1997
$20.99
13.0%
Somewhat watery light gold color, has a layered quality which creates more presence but the rims devoid of hue. Sweet nose of lilacs, orange blossom and strawberry, cherry and peach fruit, hint of dried grass but it’s too light and airy to even at ten years of age present contrasting tertiary scents. Medium-bodied, while broad of shoulders it flows smoothly and has the pacing of a lighter wine. While sweet, the tangerine to pink grapefruit citrus displays more bite than expected based on the nose. Good floral musk but lacking in the white pepper and stone/mineral departments albeit there’s a mineral water freshness to it. The acidity seems in proportion to the primary material. The peach, pear, apple, strawberry fruit approachable and sticks around until the finish. No real argument with it here. 88 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Hillsides
Syrah
2002
$25.00
14.9%
Murky purple color, quite deep, sucks in and extinguishes light, dull scarlet red rims beginning to suggest some aging even with not general loss of hue. Some salt and earth at first in the nose, pleasingly not showing a lot of oak, shades of white grapefruit and dried flowers, the raspberry, cranberry, red cherry fruit scents have more keen penetrating power than richness. Medium-bodied, shows distinct milk chocolate notes and a swipe of toast but, again, not that oaky. The acidity highlights that white grapefruit citrus and continues to sharpen the cranberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit through to the finish. Not especially gamey with only a bit more florality, doesn’t come across as undeveloped, just content to stick to the basics. Smooth and well-balanced, doesn’t betray any alcoholic heat. Good length, not spectacular as this would be more showy than it wants to be. In retrospect a good value that delivers what you paid for. 89 points
Gouges, Domaine Henri
Burgundy, France
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Les Saint Georges
Pinot Noir
2000
$55.99
13.0%
Ruby-violet in color throughout, mildly more red around the rims, in no way cloudy nor visually impaired by sediment but not exactly clear either. There’s an odd plastic smell which seems unfortunately in place, mulched grass, belt leather, lemon peel, the cherry to raspberry scents aren’t mute per se but certainly are not gabby either, unravels semi-swiftly. Medium-bodied, gains traction with little effort, tannins have grooves and catch on random spots on your tongue. Grassiness, sun-baked stone and desiccated lemon peels frame the mouth entry. Has an old woodiness about it. The cherry, raspberry fruit feels like it’s reading from a script, nothing extra proffered. Does present a certain calmness which bespeaks of its breeding but in this instance there’s not enough material to fashion into an extended experience. Drinkable. 86 points
Dri, Azienda Agricola Giovanni
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
Ramandolo
Il Roncat
Verduzzo Friulano
1988
$35.99
13.0%
Brown-yellow to dried red rose in color, turns yellow to fashion wide rims, obviously an older wine. Very Sherry-like nose, nutty, dusty old spices, apricot paste, poached pears, lemon peel, rum raisin, dates and cherry scents, all over the map. Medium-bodied, very smooth and fluid, here too has that Sherry character, nutty with dried orange, lemon peel accompanied by a mulled spice kind of appeal. The cherry, apricot, peach fruit fresher than the parallel raisin, fig, date fruit, perhaps because it has acidity beyond expectations. Cinnamon and nutmeg spice contribute to a very dry finish, a touch short. Compelling for being unusual yet familiar at once. 88 points
Petra, Azienda Agricola
Tuscany, Italy
Val di Cornia Suvereto
Ebo
Blend
2002
$25.99
13.0%
The purple core is dark but you can indeed see through it, dark scarlet rims, richly hued throughout. Smoky, leathery nose, milk chocolate only slightly softens the rough-hewn cherry, raspberry scents, sweet but not necessarily juicy, has a blockish feeling in your nostrils, sticks like oil point. Full-bodied, dry and overly solid, the tannins stern and determinate. The plum, currant, blackberry fruit has flavor but no sense of movement nor opening. Sour lemon citric bite, leather, earth, pressed straw dense and hard to get it revved up and going. It’s hard-edged and strikes you as made from fairly young vines. Unspecified percentages of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. 86 points
Ducru-Beaucaillou, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1998
$68.99
13.0%
Clean yet opaque purple core, strong reddish influence, the dark ruby rims stay close to violet. Cedar, milk chocolate, grill smoke, tobacco, spiced orange peel coexist peacefully in the nose, there’s a tart edge to the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit, stays full for some time. Medium-bodied, dry and tannic, there’s abundant ripeness in the cherry, plum, red currant fruit but it doesn’t get fully to the mid-palate. Cedar, tobacco, leather, earth, cut grass remain lowkey, there’s a certain homogeneity from the mid-palate on through the finish. Still tangy throughout, presents itself as an honest claret and nothing more. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Pichler, Weingut F.X.
Wachau, Austria
Loibner
Steinertal
Smaragd
Riesling
1996
$39.99
12.5%
Aged golden color, not quite bronze yet, fades at the rims and without much shine. Big rubber in the nose, white grapefruit pith and lemon zest, limestone and mineral water, minimal pear, apple, peach fruit scents, just oily smokiness. Medium-bodied, very spicy and peppery mouth entry with that same oiliness to lend grip to the white and pink grapefruit citrus and minerality. Baked dough and a touch of honey fill out the center. In turn, hot pepper fills in the back end, deadens the apricot, peach, nectarine, pineapple fruit. The finish comprised mostly of weight, presses down hard on the tongue but the flavors peter out somewhat prematurely. 88 points
Murdoch James Estate
Martinborough, New Zealand
Fraser
Pinot Noir
2001
$39.99
14.5%
Provides both clarity and depth of color in the garnet-purple core, only a slight diminution towards the ruby to blood red rims, no lack of hue. Leather, sweet tobacco leaf to tea leaf and merde-like earth give the nose a muscular feel, light meadow herbaceousness and light spice open it up some, the concentration in the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit scents toys with a dried fruit quality. Medium-bodied, has balance like a overpopulated canoe, never capsizes but lurches without warning. Nothing registers convincingly in the tannins nor acidity, yet it manages acceptable erectness. Orange peel, ginger root, molasses notes luckily do not over-sweeten the cherry, blackberry fruit, you know it’s there and that’s it. Lacks elegance but not quite clumsy. 88 points
Rion & Fils, Domaine Daniel
Burgundy, France
Clos Vougeot
Pinot Noir
2000
$74.99
13.5%
Bright ruby-purple core, shows more orange tinge in the garnet rims, light gauziness throughout. Sulfur and merde stink first in the nose, slowly blows off to release snappy red cherry, raspberry, cranberry scents, orange pulp, wet flower petals, mild earthiness, in the end still takes too long to find its bearings. Medium-bodied, spicier here with cinnamon, ginger notes and richer juicy orange and lemon citrus. The floral lift countered by creamy milk chocolate notes. The stone element stunted and barely able to find clear expression. The cherry, raspberry fruit is simple and a touch roasted, not enough to adequately fill the finish. Not quite what it should be. 86 points
Ata Rangi
Martinborough, New Zealand
Pinot Noir
2000
$37.99
14.0%
Very consistent red-purple color, just a touch redder around the rims, great clarity and very youthful in appearance, showing zero age. Syrupy texture in the nose, plays up more sugary plum and blackberry than red fruits, some leather, oak toast and caramel but curiously unevolved and lacking in complexity. Full-bodied, very soft and plush, more interested in filling your mouth from cheek to cheek than creating a sense of progression or movement. Caramel, vanilla cream and butterscotch contribute to smoothing out any remaining rough edges after the plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit fully saturates your palate. Sweet lemon sorbet and cinnamon not exactly taking anything into new territory. Minimal acidity and tannins, holds itself together through the finish by dint of fruity glue. Tastes perfectly fine but seems to consciously avoid any aspect which could intrigue your brain. 87 points
Martinborough Vineyard
Martinborough, New Zealand
Pinot Noir
2001
$31.99
13.5%
Dull filminess heightens the brick red over the basic purple foundation, rims all but fully red and lose their concentration as well. Pleasingly smoky nose with enough earthiness to keep it firm and lingering, the white grapefruit and lemon citrus notes alleviate some of the dried fruit character in the plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit, more compelling for texture than array of scents. Full-bodied, fresher here in the mouth if retaining the pluminess in the blackberry, black cherry fruit. Cinnamon and ginger spice plays a bigger role, the tannins have become somewhat dusty and match the feel of the spices. The lemon citrus sweeter and more knit into the fruit. Takes awhile for the stone and earth to coalesce, slowed by a burst in the mid-palate of caramel. It’s one of those that grows on you the more you sip it, not a “finesse” wine but it has character and a fair amount of depth. 89 points
Turley
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Ueberroth Vineyard
Zinfandel
2002
$48.00
16.4%
Crimson purple colored core, caught at the precipice of opacity, the red crimson fully takes over through the very broad rims, has so much clarity that it doesn’t look as old as the color itself suggests. Vanilla and coconut custard blends with caramel, definite flan scents, sugary raspberry, blackberry, blueberry fruit scents close to pie-like consistency, floral if anything else, some mesquite grill smoke. Full-bodied while as fluid as can be with the weight, a nimble pulling guard. Has sufficient acidity to sharpen the fruit into a “redder” raspberry, red cherry, cranberry, blackberry profile, in the process reducing the caramel, vanilla, milk chocolate oak flavors to a healthy embellishment. Nuances of cedar, ginger, potpourri and lemonade keep it zigging and zagging. Having shed some youthful weight it isn’t a 2x4 to the head on the finish but by no means short. Very enjoyable. 91 points
Trévallon, Domaine de
Provence, France
Vin de Pays de Bouches du Rhône
Blend
2001
$59.99
14.0%
Slightest filminess darkens the scarlet-purple core, vivid brick red rims display a noticeable orange tinge. Has all that fluffy garrigues florality in the nose yet it’s the leather, beef blood, garden herbs and pine which explode through your nostrils, the plum, red currant, red cherry fruit scents remain plush while more openly knit than dense. Full-bodied, the tannins are slowly dissolving into a gritty, sandpapery texture, still a strongly drying force. More concentration and general sappiness in the plum, currant, cherry fruit, rubbed away at by those tannins. Cedar, cocoa powder, lemon zest, wildflowers and herbs match what was presented in the nose, uniform experience. Slight bitter twist on the finish brings out additional grassiness. Not awkward per se but still coming into itself. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Syrah. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2007
Tin Barn
Russian River Valley, California
Jensen Lane Vineyard
Zinfandel
2002
$24.99
14.8%
Noticeably clear, there’s more crimson red in the core than purple and certainly more around the burnt rims, full and with a touch of ochre. Just crushed red raspberry, cherry, cranberry fruit blend with eucalyptus, fresh heavy cream and grilled lamb to make for both a viscerally satisfying as well as complex nose, begins to develop more lemon peel and mountain scrub flowers with air time, loses some oak. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, not at all shy about the complete ripeness in the cherry, blackberry, raspberry, strawberry fruit, not chewy per se but neither possessed of a silken texture either. Vanilla pudding, milk chocolate and butter soften the profile, the oak woven into the overall fabric. The tannins holding on credibly and keep things together. The smokiness and meatiness comes out more strongly through the finish. About right where it ought to be. 89 points
Saxum
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
James Berry Vineyard
Bone Rock
Syrah
2000
$48.00
14.8%
While the surface shine is formidable, the purple is as black as possible and still have color (remember black technically isn’t a color), the ruby rims all but completely turned to a dark brick red. Heavy floral perfume in the nose, the oak toast has knit in well, more room for the grilled meats, albeit there’s not much left after the sugary plum, currant, black cherry scents soak in, does not express much development. Full-bodied, the tannins have been reduced to powder and the structure left dependent on weight all but alone. That said, there’s no lack of weight and the immense sweetness of the prune, plum, cherry fruit gives it added concentration. Mocha powder, orange zest and a relatively higher degree of floral dew. Whereas the oak here too has receded, tertiary earth and stone nuances yet to come to the fore. Very smooth and integrated, however, lacking in a sense of progression and overall movement. 88 points
Pride Mountain
Sonoma County, California
Syrah
2002
$52.00
14.3%
Inky black purple core, completely impenetrable, thin, thin rims, now more brick red than ruby. Plum jam, blueberry syrup, blackberry jelly, apricot paste, the nose is all fruit, all the time, some herbal matter and swipe of honey glazed grilled meats, mint sprig on top, thankfully betraying minimal heat. Full-bodied, complete duplication in the mouth with all that sugary, paste-like cherry, plum, blackberry fruit slowly oozing from your lips down your throat. Brown sugar, honey and roasted orange peels join together with clove, ginger spice to give it a zesty profile through the mid-palate where the dust of the ground up tannins and sediment dampen the mood. Fewer herbal notes here, the alcohol held under check in terms of heat but will give you a good buzz. Dark chocolate and mint imbue it with oakiness but it’s the toasted coconut which really drives the stave through your heart. Showy and certainly never to be considered shy, appears to have reached a plateau and developed about as much as it can without trading off too much fruit, the latter perhaps a welcome Mardi Gras mask. 87 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Walker Vine Hill Vineyard
Syrah
2002
$50.00
15.2%
A mild murkiness contributes to the onyx black opacity of the core, really only starts to show any purple along the rim where it has to at least try to make room for crimson-ruby in what little space there is. The nose is marred by alcoholic fumes, delaying the settling in of the velvety cassis, black cherry, blackberry fruit, albeit the process of softening aided by flowers and caramelized brown sugar. Full-bodied, here it’s like you get a huge heaping of each food group but they are pushed away from each other on the plate so that none are touching. Mesquite smoke, molasses, brown sugar and vanilla bean. Sugary plum, currant, cherry, blackberry fruit. Bacon fat and pork ribs. Then pinches of orange peel, flower petals, mint. In terms of texture it’s dry and uneven, the tannins lack natural flow and confident control. Displays an unwillingness to move, even with an electric prod. Acts like it doesn’t want to make its message clear. 87 points
Turley
Napa Valley, California
Moore “Earthquake” Vineyard
Zinfandel
2000
$48.00
15.7%
Red cloudy red-purple core, murkily opaque, dark, drying blood red rims, more brooding than bright. The nose offers up cinnamon dusted plums and raisins, beef jerky, mesquite grill bricks, candied orange peels and vanilla fudge, has lost enough sugariness to gain complexity. Full-bodied, what tannins there might have been ground into dust as the texture is grittier than expected. No lack of sweetness in the plum, prune, raisin, black cherry, cassis fruit, but after the attack starts huffing and puffing way before the finish line. Cinnamon, nutmeg, mint evoke Mom’s kitchen in the fall, the orange and lemon citrus here dried out some. Some earthiness and grill charcoal ash but little of the meatiness brought out in the nose. Even the oak has fallen to ember status. Not a bad wine by any stretch but lacks verve, only has the momentum of weight to impress those swoon for such things. 87 points
López de Heredia, Bodegas R.
Rioja, Spain
Viña Bosconia
Gran Reserva
Tempranillo
1976
$92.99
12.5%
Clear cough syrup red core, the crimson fades to orange and then bright yellow rims. Dried sandalwood, orange peel, rose petals, powdered cedar bits, there’s a fruit cocktail level of sweetness in the cherry, raspberry fruit scents along a topping of powdered chocolate, it’s just big and fluffy and expands as far as it can go. Full-bodied, doesn’t quite have the acidity to keep it bright and cleanly lined yet it is fresh given both its age as well as the formidable ripeness in the cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit. The cedar, driftwood, incense flavors are gentle of touch, same for the candied orange peel and dried grass. Real steady presence, just keeps flowing and doing what it does well. 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, 3% Graciano, 2% Mazuelo. 90 points
Turley
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Pesenti Vineyard
Zinfandel
2000
$35.00
15.3%
Filmy purple core, wide rims of brick red, orange shades, has held onto its depth of color throughout. Hits you with twin barrels of heavy cream, mint, butter icing and menthol as well as beef jerky, salt lick, wet autumn leaves, there’s some short-lived stony earth, strong punch in the ripe, if unsweet, cherry, plum, blackberry scents. Medium-bodied, feels like it has lost weight and thickness, flows from a fuller attack to a slimmer finish, slowly shedding the lemon, orange citrus and menthol to eucalyptus notes. Has the tannins to suck out whatever sugar was left in the plum, blackberry, raspberry fruit. Manages a few servings of cinnamon, ginger spice and even some wildflowers. Just a much thinner version of its former self. 87 points
Léoville Barton, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1997
$28.99
12.5%
Murkiness adds fullness to the crimson-purple core, clears out around the advanced brick red rims, palpable orange tinge. Cedar, cigar wrapper, pressed flowers and orange peels keep the pulse going through the nose, turns earthier with air time, pleasing amount of cherry, blackberry, red currant fruit scents. Medium-bodied, tangy mouth entry immediately puts it squarely in your radar screen, orange citrus, tobacco smoke, cedar, wet leather and minerals. The currant, cherry, cranberry fruit easily gets through the mid-palate before starting to unravel some. Tannins not ready to be put out to pasture yet, however, it’s the acidity that keeps it inclining forward. Touch of tomato skin and metal on the finish. Not the most complete wine but a definite reminder of what a quality, non-steroidal claret can be. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 89 points
Daumas Gassac, Mas de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault Haute Vallée du Gassac
Blend
1998
$28.99
13.0%
Not cloudy but certainly dull, the purple core’s opacity sucks the life out of the surface reflections, the rims completely brick red with the beginnings of an orange tinge. Big time cedar, sandalwood and clove in the nose, clear prune edge to the plum, black currant, cherry scents, unfolds layers of wet brown tobacco leaf and dewy violets, keeps steamrolling your nostril hairs for some time. Full-bodied, the tannic bite remains a worthy opponent, helps immeasurably in restraining the sweetness of the plum, currant, blackberry, black cherry fruit, that said, the youthful opulence of the fruit has been shed noticeably. Spicy without pushing it too far, you get more orange peels, graphite and leather alongside that tobacco, cedar tip. Puts on weight with air time, contributing to its highly respectable length. What it is is just good. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder unspecified percentages of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto. 92 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2007
Lynch-Bages, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Blend
1989
$35.00
12.5%
Black-red tones semi-dull the purple core, appears to have thrown a good deal of sediment which even standing up can’t resolve, burnt orange rims. Plummy kind of sugary nose, currant and cherry fruit scents with cedar, clove and graphite, sweeter and richer than expected. Full-bodied, the tannins are resolved to the point where the structure is fairly flat. Cedar, pencil lead, graphite, cut grass, old orange peels come through well. Sluggish cherry, blackberry fruit, pours like wet cement down your throat. Has a decent degree of acidity to push things past the mid-palate. Leaves you somewhat at a loss for words as it is enjoyable, yet not as precise nor developed as hoped. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Allemand, Thierry
Rhône, France
Cornas
Reynard
Syrah
1994
$61.99
12.5%
Blackness influences the red-purple core as well as red-garnet rims, has a luminescent cloudiness like, err, a red cloud in the sky. No room for olives in the nose because of all the olives in the nose alongside tar, leather, horsehide, lemon peel, burnt bacon, grass, takes an inordinate amount of time to blow off the funk, the currant, cherry, blackberry scents holding on but not for long. Medium-bodied, the tannins have been ground down into a gritty dust yet has the acidity to exemplify good posture throughout. Glazed ham, bacon bits, green and black olives, the red currant, plum, red cherry fruit here too in no way shot, plenty left by the end. A wine that changes constantly post-opening. Rugged, maybe sauvage, yet still lovable. 91 points
Lamarche, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Grands Echezeaux
Pinot Noir
2000
13.9%
Displays a certain cloudiness to it at some angles, orange-garnet in hue with a definite lightening into watery rims, not impressive visually. Smoky, earthy nose, remarkably lacking in personality, however, it musters clear elements of grass, green olive, violets with moderate thrust to the red cherry, raspberry scents. Finds itself in the mouth somehow, full-bodied with unexpected density, you can feel it from start to finish. Pine, licorice, herbs, wildflowers and even mint redeem it here, good grit in the tannins and lots of lemon oil. Pointed red cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit slides through to the finish, kicking up a dust. If you have any, get a couple of friends and start chugging now. 87 points
Confuron, Domaine Jean-Jacques
Burgundy, France
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Les Fleurières
Pinot Noir
2000
$55.99
13.0%
Fully consistent ruby-violet in color, maybe a slight orange tinge at the rims, very clear and visually easy to look at. Soft caramel scents buttress the raspberry, strawberry and red cherry fruit, flower water, the dense stone makes it harder to spread out and become a factor, really pleasingly simple and straightforward, no confusing sidetracks. Medium-bodied, equally openly knit in the mouth, clove spice and orange rind first, has a satiny smoothness while still showing enough tannins to slow it down and let you inspect it more clearly. Minerals, earth, dried mushrooms, even tobacco and tea leaves to boot. The ripeness in the cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit is front-loaded, starts off slowly with a languorous decline thereafter. Doesn’t blow you away but damn well satisfying. 89 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2001
$40.00
16.5%
Surprisingly clear throughout, full violet core when viewed straight on but from a more tilted angle the red-ruby just as prominent, completely scarlet by the rims, yet with no loss of general hue intensity. Prune and golden raisin anchor the blueberry, blackberry jam scents, and abundance of eucalyptus, pine and then heavy cream and vanilla fudge fill open space in your nostrils, flower water and then dissolves with a hint of roasted meats, has interesting dimension to it. Medium-bodied, here in the mouth it’s much lighter than expected, has the powdered sugar sweetness you’d expect but even with the date and prune notes, the cherry, blackberry fruit lacks weight. Menthol, eucalyptus, lime, orange spice, mint and something like garrigues drift about. The tannin and acidity sitting this one out. Still, keeps coming at you but running on grit and determination. Leaves you curious to see where it goes from here with more age. 88 points
Tensley
Santa Barbara County, California
Purisima Mountain Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$39.99
13.8%
Bright ruby-purple core, the heavy set rims just as equally garnet, brick red now as they are ruby, perfectly clear and without sediment nor film. Caramelized brown sugar, honey is about all there is for oakiness in the nose, then leather, wildflowers, a breeze through forest trees soften and deepen the texture as an increasing concentration in the plum, blackberry, black cherry scents eliminate youthfully juicy flow. In the mouth it is medium-bodied, the acidity a bit ragged but capable of forcing things forward. Has the ripeness here to still infuse sweetness through the raspberry, blackberry, red cherry fruit but only sugar reaches the finish, not as much fruit flavor. More vanillin powder here, the oak showing more as the fruit fades. A little more herbal too, mixes in orange peel and meadow flowers. Nice enough but needs more depth and little more length to truly impress. 87 points
Vougeraie, Domaine de la
Burgundy, France
Vougeot
Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot
Monopole
Chardonnay
1999
$79.99
13.0%
Has darkened into amber at the core, more simply dense gold further out, makes the dropoff at the rims that much more noticeable, on the dull side. Very fine toast in the nose, almost burnt yet has sufficient lime juice and flowers to soften, the peach, apricot, pear fruit lean but not short, slow fade off. Medium-bodied, the acidity very much of a dusty sort, dries out the flowers as well as the lemon, orange citrus. Has a slight oily feel to it as it sits, concentrates the apricot, peach, pear fruit flavors. Kind of loses grip pas the mid-palate and spreads too widely. Nicely, though, this brings out more of the mineral powder element. While it’s good, it’s not all it should be. 87 points
Alfieri, Azienda Agricola Marchesi
Piedmont, Italy
Monferrato
San Germano
Pinot Nero
1998
$39.99
14.0%
Crimson red trumps any violet in the core, maintains orange-scarlet rims, quite vivid and perfectly clear. Licorice, leather, pine, earth, shoe polish, comes up with a fairly typical sense of Piedmontese terroir, latent richness in the cherry, raspberry, blackberry scents gain steam with time, takes a good long time to find its balance in your nostrils but certainly does. Medium-bodied, the tannins are big and bruising and set the stage for a fight early on. However, the ripeness in the cherry, blackberry fruit really bursts through and brings a wildflower edge to it too. The leather and earth makes way for more mushroom and dried lemon notes, as it opens more of the grape type character asserts itself, softens and gains length as a result. More than just a curiosity. 88 points
Zenato
Veneto, Italy
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Sergio Zenato Riserva
Blend
1995
$39.99
15.0%
Soft red tinge not enough to lighten the opaque purple core, stays full until very thin rims of brown, yellow to light red hues, little gets below the surface. The nose is dense unto immobility, matted wet hay, earth, cow patties, dried old orange peels, equal degree of prune/raisin scents as blackberry, plum, cherry fruit, whipped up mix of cinnamon, ginger and orange spice, dusting of mocha powder, more dried herb scents than herbaceousness per se. Medium-bodied, has drawn into itself and shed anything extraneous to its most basic message, all herbs, bark, orange peels, anise seed and leather. The tannins are smooth and the acidity buttresses any dip in the former. Tightly contoured raspberry, red cherry fruit closer to strawberry than blackberry, moderate length. Pleasing for not going the easy “steamroller” approach, this said, about near the back end of its drinking plateau. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella. 88 points
Pichler, Weingut F.X.
Wachau, Austria
Loibner
Loibenberg 19 Terrassen
Smaragd
Grüner Veltliner
1989
12.5%
Moderate green inflection throughout the old gold color, on the whole clear, in the manner of having lost hue intensity. The nose is sedate, green peas, pineapple rind, peach and nectarine fruit without tropicality, stones and poor earth, takes up more acreage via expanding smokiness and burning grass elements. Full-bodied, keeps its center well, a certain milkiness helps to act as a glue. Grapefruit and lemon citrus add tang and revitalize the green apple, pineapple, apricot, nectarine fruit. The acidity has faded some, not precise but not blowzy either. As in the nose, the stoniness and minerality gain momentum with air time. The milkiness turns to a more dusty grit on the finish. Completes itself literally with cherry flavoring at the end, on top or bottom up to you. 90 points
Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy), Domaine d’
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Les Narvaux
Chardonnay
1997
$109.99
13.0%
Matured orange-gold color, lightly bronzed core, while overall clear it’s hue definitely minimizes shine and clarity, holds well through the rims. Pinpoint accuracy with the oak toast in the nose, at times sour lime juice notes come through but balanced by butterscotch and pressed flowers, the green apple, peach, pear fruit scents wiry and determined to stride briskly through the nostrils, the minerality akin to overheated sauna stones in the pungency. Medium-bodied, if its blade were any keener it would cut itself. Tartness persists in the lemon/lime citrus, toasted buttered bread, butterscotch remain in keeping with the aggressive mineral water, stone shard component, the acidity has the wattage to amplify all of these aspects. By no stretch underfruited, however, the green apple, pear, peach, apricot flavors just about the last thing you notice, strong fruit pit and skin nature. Maintains a sense of poise given its verve, regal, if not at moments, imperious, bearing. Takes awhile to really open up, have a decanter ready. 92 points
Zind Humbrecht, Domaine
Alsace. France
Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain
Vendanges Tardives
Pinot Gris
1994
$65.00
13.7%
Completely orange-amber in hue, you look for the insect trapped inside the block, barely fades to yellow at the rims, wonderful surface shine given its age and translucent depths. Gingerbread, molten caramel, dark chocolate infused with orange zest, flan, the nose has it all in spades, very credible lift given the sheer concentration in the pineapple, nectarine, apricot, mango fruit scents, ends with a nuance of oiled stone, as if ready to sharpen a knife against it. Full-bodied falls short of it, would be flat as a mile deep pancake if not for both the yet brawny acidity and piquant ginger, cinnamon spice. Caramelized orange and tangerine peels sweet and tangy, there’s still a lot of green apple and pear alongside the richer apricot, peach, pineapple flavors. At moments offers what violets would taste like if freshly pressed into liquid form. Loses not an iota of intensity nor weight through a prolonged finish. You could either drink it all night long or not at all. 92 points
Bründlmayer, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Alte Reben
Grüner Veltliner
1998
$28.99
13.5%
Full orange amber in color, translucent enough to pool in layers from the surface down, hits a little yellow further out but really surprisingly devoid of any hue at the rims. Honey, challah bread, candied oranges, licorice and apricot/peach cobbler make for a sweetly voluptuous nose, not especially long-lived but hits hard while there. Full-bodied, big, bold and brassy, throws a full cornucopia of tropical pineapple, nectarine, guava, peach, passion fruit at you. Momentary glance of herbaceousness and pepper but more interested in zipping you with white to pink grapefruit and lime citrus. Fennel, thyme spice and to a lesser extent stone powder help keep the pace up. The acidity level is so-so, not mouthwateringly bright, however, fits the whole. The real honeyed accents seem to appear as a lingering aftereffect through the finish. Needs heavier food such as pork or fatty duck, not a versatile expression of the grape. 89 points
Brogan Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Lone Redwood Ranch
Zinfandel
1999
$34.00
16.4%
The dully dark purple core made even more so by the thick sediment which permeates the liquid even after days of standing the bottle up, more brick red to garnet at the rims now than ruby or magenta. Port-like pruney, raisiny quality to the nose, sweet baking spice, hard cream, cola, mild menthol notes, concentrated blackberry, blueberry pie scents complete the harmoniously orchestrated presentation, mild distraction from the alcohol. In the mouth it’s more than full-bodied, while planed down to a certain smoothness you can tell the original planks were cut rough. The alcohol less prevalent here and it has enough acidic bite to keep the fruit just syrupy and not dried fruit, wide array of blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry, black cherry fruit with a hint of peach too. Ginger snap, cinnamon and little lower clove plays between spicy and sweet. Candied, dried character to the orange peel flavors. Ends with a cedary flourish and an echo of tomato skin, a sign that it’s time to drink up before it starts to unravel. 88 points
Chapoutier, Michel
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
La Bernardine
Blend
1997
$32.99
13.5%
Matured crimson red rims with minimal purple influence, the rims are wide and comprised mostly of brick red to orange hues, not especially shiny yet not filmy. Quite dusty and dry nose, very little wet sensation in the nostrils, tea leaves, grass, hardened earth and old lemon peels, the cherry, raspberry, watermelon fruit scents losing their hard candy concentration. In the mouth it remains medium-bodied but fading into lighter weight. Much more herbaceous here and you really sense the loss of dried fruit, prune, raisin sweetness in what’s still left of the cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit. Sharp, if attenuated, orange and lemon peel, cough syrup, parched earth and dried tea leaves abound. Some leftover grittiness from the tannins, not much acidity. Pretty much dead by the finish. Some bottles you just hold onto for sentimental reasons. But we all have to pass over to the other side at some time. Mainly Grenache, remainder unspecified percentages of Syrah, Mourvèdre, etc. 83 points
Kahurangi Estate
Nelson, New Zealand
Unwooded
Chardonnay
2002
$11.99
13.5%
Green flecks bring out more straw character in the yellow base color, pools nicely and catches enough glints of light across the surface to avoid duller translucency. Ripe fruit cocktail nose of green melon, peach, pear, apricot, cherry fruit as well as lemon juice, touch of dried honey outscores the stones and minerals, for all of its richness doesn’t appear heavy. Medium to full-bodied, added zest in the lemon, lime citrus as well as more crispness in the stoniness prevents any syrupy qualities in the tropically-inclined pineapple, nectarine, papaya, apricot, pear fruit. Hint of nutmeg or ginger spice, liveliness more from this from the acidity. Retains its focus through the finish, doesn’t flatten out, helps the fruit prolong their presence. Too much grip to be very refreshing but a pleasing middle-of-the-roader. 88 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Castelli-Knight Ranch
Syrah
2002
$45.00
16.9%
Completely opaque black purple core that achieves such without having to give up surface luster, the ruby-crimson rims show no sign of losing an iota of vibrancy. There’s a newly tilled open field grass and earth mixture to the nose, broadens into softer mint, honey glazed ham, orange blossom and menthol, clear contours in the cherry, blackberry fruit scents keep it all moving at a brisk clip while letting you still enjoy it. Full-bodied, has a girder-like firmness to it without being “hard” per se. The plum, blackberry, black currant fruit still forward and the first thing you’ll notice, that said the orange to grapefruit citrus, flowers, menthol, milk chocolate and clove spice all granted free range. Not much by way of tannins but the acidity has a pulse. Just beginning to develop more ham, game or raw bacon notes but what’s there blends well with the whole. The potential upside is there but doesn’t make you regret having pulled the cork now either. 92 points
Códax, Bodegas Martín
Rías Baixas, Spain
Special Selection
Albariño
1999
13.0%
Stunningly deep orange-amber color, translucent layers shimmer from the surface down, looks like a dessert wine more than white wine, does empty out to more washed out yellow along the rims. Sluggishly heavy nose of apricot, peach paste, cinnamon and honey-coated pie crust, lemon custard, orange sorbet, the more time it gets to open up and sit in the nostrils the more it accretes and gains immobile density. In the mouth it’s equally full-bodied, if not somewhat reduced to a pudding-like consistency. The fruit has that concentrated dried paste character, slathers the apricot, peach, nectarine, pineapple across the palate albeit it’s pretty much front-loaded and loses its oomph by the finish. The acidity keeps trying to chug along but there’s little freshness left in the flavors to pair with. At first it presents a certain crushed seashell, chalky element but this fades with time in favor of tangy spices. The finish is mostly weight and echoes of the at first splashy flavors. 86 points
Ravenswood
Sonoma Valley, California
Monte Rosso Vineyard
Zinfandel
1994
$24.99
14.6%
While there’s plenty of crud left behind in the bottle, there’s very good clarity in the medicinal purple core, the brick red to scarlet hues have triumphed over any ruby in the rims, in no way faded but visibly aged. Prune, raisin and date scents grab your attention first in the nose, behind that is thicker plum pudding and candied orange peel scents with a curious glance of green apple, moments of eucalyptus and menthol rub, minimal oakiness present, same for the earthiness, the fruit betrays age but naught else along the same lines save mild cedar and clove spice. Full-bodied, brisk and zesty attack with yet formidable tannins and acidity to frame and paint sleeker lines in the plum, prune, black cherry, boysenberry, peach fruit. Turns slightly hollow in the center but manages to develop a final thump at the finish. Spice, cedar, tobacco and tar accents give you momentary pause, create the impression of a somewhat older Bordeaux from a hot vintage. Vanilla fumes permeate the finish. Not on its last legs but really no sense in waiting further. 88 points
Falesco
Lazio, Italy
Ferentano
Roscetto
2004
$58.00
13.5%
The golden hue already deepening into a lightly bronzed tint, lacks reflectivity which makes the rims less lustrous and empty. Heavy cream and buttered toastiness in the nose, mint and flower oil too, the oak covers up most of any other scents save the poached peach, apricot, nectarine fruit, as hard to discern the grape type as it is the possible place of origin. Full-bodied, just as sweetly creamy and oaky in the mouth, butterscotch, caramel, vanilla like an ice cream parlor. Floral musk also remains a big part, extracted syrupy richness drives the straightforward peach, apricot, pear, nectarine, pineapple fruit flavors. Clove spice reminds you this was not done in stainless steel. Boisterous personality, very brash and in-your-face but very much a one trick pony. 1.5 liter bottle.
85 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
1998
$59.99
14.0%
The above average surface shine keeps it sparkling in the glass while below crimson red has infiltrated the purple core to lighten it, the brick red rims themselves showing signs of age. The nose manages to be sugary while not that sweet, mostly made up of cherry, raspberry, peach fruit and meadow floral scrub, the remainder displaying powdered dark chocolate, orange spice, licorice, as it dissolves takes on a medicinal, cough syrup-like heat. Medium-bodied, conspicuous most for its hollow center, ripe and concentrated attack of cherry, blackberry, golden raisin fruit that can’t sustain itself. The tannins feel filmy like they’ve unraveled some, perhaps a culprit in the lack of fluidity. The herbal side more along a forest than open field. More saddle leather than earth, dusty spices and dried orange peels too. Not much flavor breadth nor clarity. Makes you hope it’s still shut down or just in an awkward place. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah. 87 points
Tensley
Santa Barbara County, California
Purisima Mountain Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$40.00
13.5%
Cloudy purple core, more of a layered opacity, thick rims too that are mostly scarlet with a mild orange tinge, not that aged in look but the cloudiness throws it all off. Smoky nose of leather, merde, forest matter and twigs, mild reduction, sour currant, cherry, blackberry scents that don’t quite fully catch on. Medium to full-bodied, bottom-heavy, doesn’t move much. Orange peel, eucalyptus, licorice, sweet garden herbs and a fair degree of minerality, has aggressive enough acidity to breathe life into the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit through the mid-palate. You can really feel the gritty sediment even after standing up the bottle in advance. Its weight carries it a long way through the finish, has more zest than true flavor at the end but still keeps you interested. 89 points
Zind Humbrecht, Domaine
Alsace, France
Hengst
Gewürztraminer
1995
$30.00
14.0%
While not especially dark, the color is full orange amber, barely moves a shade lighter to yellow around the rims, tough decision for it but finally chooses transparency over translucency. Like the color, the nose seemed trapped in amber, very little movement in the orange marmalade, beeswax, apricot, peach, mango fruit scents, doesn’t seem sweet nor tangy, smells some like a croissant, goes nowhere slow. In the mouth it can at least impress for its sheer massiveness, the proverbial anvil dropped on your tongue. This creates a paste-like feel in the apricot, nectarine, guava, pineapple fruit even though it lacks the sweetness which usually accompanies such texture. A little of the grape’s signature nuttiness but more orange, white grapefruit citrus instead. Have to guess there’s minimal acidity but who could tell under all the weight? Bitter finish. Tasting it now, makes it difficult to even imagine what it tasted like in its youth. 85 points
Ridge
Sonoma County, California
Geyserville
Zinfandel
1997
$25.99
14.9%
While actually fairly clear, black beats out scarlet-purple through the core, gives way with ease to very wide brick red rims with a strong orange infusion which is sure to spread. The nose has really concentrated into itself, discarding both youthful exuberance as well as taking on the fat of middle age, plum pudding, raisin, blackberry, cherry fruit soaks through the nostrils, cinnamon and orange spice, the vanillin oak much quieter now, shades of leather, animal hide and eucalyptus but clearly still evolving. Full-bodied, here too appears as if it has just left the chrysalis, some sugary residue in the plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit but also aided by sour orange, lemon citrus, menthol, cedar and clove spice, not just the easy route of fruit. The tannins mostly falling into place, still keeping things jutting forward but no party pooper. Does kind of clench up some on the finish. Good blend of fruit and aged flavors now but probably best to revisit in 2-3 years. 74% Zinfandel, 15% Carignane, 10% Petite Sirah, 1% Mataro. 91 points
Failla-Jordan
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Pinot Noir
1999
$48.00
13.5%
Slight filminess deepens the red-ruby to violet core, mostly pure ruby along the rims but does show a youthful pinkish cast too. The nose comes off as a little disjointed, as if trying to accomplish too much, coconut custard and vanilla fudge blended with wet grass, cola, merde, the big loser in it all is the smoky raspberry, red cherry fruit which gets lost in the shuffle. Full-bodied, feels heavy like a building that has collapsed in on itself, very dense but not quite so organized. Clove, cola, orange pekoe tea and lighter earth admirably jut out from the attack through mid-palate, fill in some of the blanks left by the up-and-down red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit. The acidity makes a credible showing but, that said, it’s not enough to smack this sloth awake. The finish has tanginess but not as much sustained flavor as one might like. 87 points
Thandi
Western Cape, South Africa
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot
Blend
2005
14.0%
The inclination towards dark purple countered by its completely unblemished state as well as strong ruby tinge, the latter only coming close to winning out at the very furthest rims. Subtle and unforced ripeness in the straightforward red cherry, plum, blackberry fruit scents, willingly cedes space to minerally earth, open meadow grassiness and saddle leather, manages a floral lift before it dissolves. Light to medium-bodied, in no way weak, more so has a runner’s gaunt leanness. Same balance between the red cherry, raspberry fruit and earthiness, grassiness, if there’s anything tipping things in favor of the latter it’s the sinewy tannins. Less of a floral impact, higher lemon, cedar and tar accents. Tails off a little on the finish, but nothing dramatic. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. 87 points
Noon
South Australia, Australia
Langhorne Creek
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$75.00
15.5%
There’s a fat glow and bright reflectivity in the onyx black core which breathes life through it, a good deal of violet remains in the rims, darkening the purer ruby, which itself retains its youthful appearance. The nose is dominated by coffee ice cream, mint, jammy black cherry, blackberry, damson plum and wet cedar, the alcoholic fumes do throw things off, gingerbread or carrot cake the final scents to drift in and out. Full-bodied, has held onto the density and immobility of its youth, tannins have abated some, still formidable, especially in that there’s a good chance they are wood tannins and there’s no sign that the toast, butter, mint, caramel and clove are going away soon. Oddly dilute blackberry, black currant, plum fruit, neither too sweet nor gobby, feel faded. Not a great deal of leather, earth nor cigar leaf, if given a hint it’s recognizable as Cabernet. Unravels past the mid-palate, making for an uneven finish. 86 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2007
McCrea Cellars
Yakima Valley, Washington
Red Mountain
Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$40.00
14.5%
Really opaque purple core, has adequate surface shine while at the same time there’s no break in the plane at the saturated crimson red to ochre hued rims, coloration no issue here. Has the kind of nose that draws you into its web of intrigue, enough flowers, lemon/grapefruit citrus and a reasonable degree of leather/earth, keeps its cut even as the cherry, blackberry, strawberry fruit scents consistently try to splash around. Medium to full-bodied, possesses the acidic and then later tannic structure to keep it all within a necessarily loose framework, there’s a modicum of caramel and vanilla but this pales before the keen orange/lemon citrus, rosemary-led herbs, stone and salted beef flavors. In the end, for better or worse, chooses smoothness over grip. That said, delivers across the board. 90 points
Tardieu-Laurent
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1998
$59.99
13.0%
There’s a vague filminess that disturbs the overall clean appearance but also adds depth, the red-purple core doesn’t fight the orange, garnet to crimson rims, these full but suggesting age. Everything about the nose is aggressively angular, white grapefruit pith, sour oak, burnt bacon, touch of mesquite smoke, hothouse grassiness, roils through the nostrils so that you almost forget there’s raspberry, red cherry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, highly acidic to the point of bitterness, a jumble of blades let loose to whirl through the mouth. White grapefruit, lemon, mineral powder, saddle leather, mildewed earth, tobacco leaf, merde, nothing here to soften the repeated blows. There may be some tannins but not burly enough to avoid being lost in the shuffle. There’s all that sour oak, sure, but in the end it’s more Côte-Rôtie than you’d think. Curiously, though, all bite and no bark. 89 points
Seavey
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$64.00
Very clear and unblemished red-purple core, vivid scarlet to ruby rims, the glow favors the pure redness. The nose unfolds wet cedar, heavy cream, the menthol scents matched equally by the grassiness, good tobacco ash and minerals too, the ripeness continues to shine through the plum, currant, cherry fruit scents, plenty of both length and power. Full-bodied, smooth for its size with a good deal of active tannins to soak up any remaining youthful excess and allow the tertiary flavors of leather, shoe polish, tobacco leaf and menthol to cascade forth. Mint, vanilla crisp, mocha bring it back to “normalcy,” solid floral side too. There’s sweetness in the cherry, blackberry, plum fruit yet nothing near being overfruited. Has room to improve for sure but in its best drinking window for sure. Classy without being weak. 91 points
Rion & Fils, Domaine Daniel
Burgundy, France
Vosne-Romanée
Pinot Noir
1998
$25.99
13.0%
The light purple core infused throughout by red, it’s a touch filmy, this helps to bring out more reddish hues through the rims, not really that mature in appearance. Effusive nose of funky merde, wet fallen leaves, mushroom, tar, licorice, cough syrup, the cherry, raspberry scents have a syrupy concentration but not a great deal of length. Full-bodied, soaks in all over, after a few sips there’s no pores left unfilled. The acidity is better than expected, can funnel the raisinated cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit and prevent coagulation. Delivers lemon, grass, tea leaf, sweet tobacco, earth along with a steady melted caramel, shows age but still too fruity to seem that advanced. Probably not going to improve but in a very enjoyable, if simple, place right now. 91 points
Jermann
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
Pinot Grigio
2003
$27.99
13.0%
The richness of the golden hue suggests a much older wine, while transparent has a good layering to it, the bronze fills the core but doesn’t reach through the rims. Baked dough, honey, lemon juice, citrus blossoms, mint bloom through the nose, features round and soft peach, apricot, fruit scents, more perfume than depth. Medium-bodied, sinks in well enough to take on weight as it rests on the palate. Creamy vanilla, toffee, orange sherbet, mint, herbs and lemon/lime zest sparkle good-naturedly through the mid-palate, handing off to the peach, pear, apricot fruit, the latter stumbling a bit. The acidity isn’t capable of sharpening the roundness. Becomes spicier as it finishes. On the whole presents an unexpected, if good, flavor and texture profile, hard to peg as Pinot Grigio. 86 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile Vendanges Tardives
Riesling
1990
$69.99
13.0%
Light amber touch to the deep golden core, some green flecks, on the flat side, minimal surface shine but stays attractive enough. There’s a steady, but not spotlight-hogging, rubber aspect in the nose, lemon oil, pine cone, tangerine pulp, fresh meadow breeze, and demure pineapple, green apple, apricot, nectarine fruit scents, the solid stone foundation contributes to its relative reticence. Medium-bodied, smooth to a point but dense enough that it lacks truly easy fluidity. That said, the pineapple, nectarine, apricot, peach, pear fruit slides steadily across the palate, aided by the fact that the acidity settles in widely like a cloak, not losing bite for it. Youthful rubber notes, earth, lemon rind, mint, on the whole still tight and apparently only starting to evolve. 90 points
Northstar
Columbia Valley, Washington
Merlot
1998
$50.00
14.1%
The purple core remains deep, however, also taking on a noticeable brick red cast as well, this hue fully dominating the unblemished rims. The nose also showing a good deal of maturation, lots of cedar, dried potpourri, vanilla powder, lemon peel, the currant, red cherry fruit scents thinning out but have some ripeness left, nice if fairly nondescript. Medium-bodied in a way which bespeaks lost weight, the tannins are gritty silt now, attach in patches across the tongue. Plummy to semi-pruney fruit, the sugar is concentrated in place of fluid flavor through the currant, cherry, blackberry flavors. Lesser degree of cedar, dried flowers, but more caked dry earth, tree bark, dried tea leaves. Begins to unravel slowly before the finish line, not horribly so but you do notice it. 86 points
Pride Mountain
Sonoma County, California
Cabernet Franc
1997
$38.99
14.1%
Fairly unblemished and clear red-purple core which easily gives way to crimson-ochre rims, light, bright and sparkly, especially for its age. Caramel, eucalyptus and flower oil come on first in the nose before a thick stream of blueberry, blackberry fruit, pancake syrup city, lemon extract. creates a very nice swirling effect in the nostrils. Medium-bodied, has shed a great deal of weight and tightened up even as the tannins have resolved and the blackberry, black cherry fruit lost unnecessary sweetness. Hits you with lemon to orange citrus, wildflowers, more moderate cedar and dried spice. Has held onto a good portion of its verve and thrust but is pretty much on the back end of its best drinking plateau. Admirably, the makeup lasts deep into the evening with no smearing and the oak has become really toned down. 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. 88 points
Franus Wine Company, Peter
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Brandlin Vineyard
Zinfandel
2001
$18.99
14.9%
Almost a medicinal red cast to the purple core, mostly red rims but some ruby showing through as well, fairly spotless. Pleasingly surprises with mountain pine, eucalyptus tones, orange peel too, while there’s prune bits showing, this is balanced out by fresher cranberry, raspberry, red cherry scents, not fat but has a squeezably ample midsection. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with more acidic skeleton than expected, slices away any excess sugar and lets additional earth, stone come to the fore. Some pine, menthol to aid in breaking up any block-like qualities in the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit. Not much oak, the cocoa or mocha accents about it in this department. Long, wiry finish, slow loss of fruit intensity but not structure nor weight. 88 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$40.00
14.2%
Shows a black-red tint throughout the more standard purple core, the brick red rims have a decided orange cast and there it is light enough for the silty sediment to become visible. The nose first shows a burst of chocolate covered raisins then a musky floral side sets in, not enough to relieve the heaviness in the plum, blackberry fruit scents, has some cedar, clove spice and orange blossom but, overall, the nose lacks staying power. Medium-bodied, the tannins have taken on a powdery, dusty quality which is immediately noticeable during the attack. Minty with more flowers and orange/lemon citrus than found in the nose, not as much cedar but a decent amount of sweet baking spices. The currant, cherry, blackberry fruit is on the sour side, full enough to last well past the midpoint. Has character and sticks up for itself but not necessarily gonna win a 15 round decision anymore. 88 points
Da Silvo Vinhos, C.
Douro, Portugal
Vintage Port Presidential
Blend
1997
$41.99
20.0%
Black, soupy purple core, devoid of shine, the grimy red rims lack luster as well, not much to look at. Basic black raisin, plum, cherry fruit in the nose, beyond that fairly herbal with as much tobacco and earthy qualities as sweeter spices, its four-square profile makes it run a tad hot. Medium-bodied, starts off well but fades appreciably by the mid-palate, both in terms of weight and flavor intensity. Tobacco, tea leaf, tar and lemon/orange peel equal in presence to the cherry, yellow raisin, plum fruit. The tannins still have some rough spots to pave over but less hot than the nose, even at the dilute finish. It’s drinkable but lacks anything to distinguish it as a vintage character port. Unspecified percentages of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, etc. 81 points
Lutzville Vineyards
Lutzville Valley, South Africa
Olifants River Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon
2004
13.5%
Strong blood red influence throughout the purple core, very clear and glassy, light scarlet to garnet rims but by no means lacking in hue intensity. Focused nose, mostly high in the register with few bass notes, abundant bell pepper, cut grass, tobacco ash, merde, saddlesoap, all this made more present by the light touch of the raspberry, red cherry, oddly almost strawberry, fruit scents. Medium-bodied, closer to light than full yet has the wiry tannins to imbue it with a serious enough demeanor to stand at attention for as long as needed. Still herbaceous here, however, the increased earth, tanned leather, fallen leaves, tobacco even the scales. Moderately spicy and suggests a future of deeper cedar and orange peel. The raspberry, red cherry fruit is deeper here while still definitely at the “red fruit” end of the spectrum. Good compactness, no wasted movement. (Synthetic cork) 88 points
Maxwell
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Lime Cave
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$34.99
14.0%
Full blackness in the core without the usual overdone density, sure, it’s opaque, however it smoothly transitions to clean red ruby rims, full saturation and little, if any, signs of aging. Mint, licorice, menthol pretty up the nose, the oak all but completely knit-in, leaving freedom to the robust blackberry, raspberry, red currant scents, a light grassiness and forest breeze here the only olfactory sign of aging. Medium-bodied, a wonderful tannic skeleton divides and apportions every space to the mint-chocolate, orange peel, eucalyptus, cedar elements as well as the sprightly currant, raspberry, red cherry and, at times, cranberry fruit. Minor oaky creaminess, on the way out of the picture but more than in the nose. Has a calm evenness throughout, no big initial splash nor crescendo, just solidly consistent delivery. While fun to drink, given its place of origin a model of restraint. 91 points
Guigal, E.
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Brune et Blonde de Guigal
Syrah
1997
$35.99
13.0%
The brick red tinge flows through the basic purple core, seamless interface with the wide crimson rims, these still vigorous and without dulling. Exuberant nose of green olives, fried bacon, white pepper, asparagus and wet forest floor lichens, a damp smokiness lifts the still sweet cherry, raspberry scents. Medium-bodied but has a strong grip which ensures not an iota of weight gets lost throughout. The sweetness in the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit persists equally well here, a great foil to the white grapefruit, olive pit, glazed ham, mesquite smoke flavors. The tannins have flattened, leaving the acidity ably in charge. As it flows forward the herbal qualities gain a higher percentage of the whole. Truly a wonderful drop. 92 points
Pierre Saint Maurille (Philippe Delesvaux), Domaine de la
Loire, France
Coteaux du Layon Saint Aubin
Chenin Blanc
1992
$17.99
13.0%
Rich golden color but not quite amber, more like orange flecks, a translucent fuzziness drains out at the rims. The nose is very matured with lanolin, beeswax, paraffin, rubber nuances, all that good Chenin stuff, the apricot, peach, pear fruit both of a dried fruit nature and dried out, mixes in lemon and orange marmalade, while there’s a nice array of scents it is on the short side. Medium-bodied, while incredibly dense and steel-like, not really full as in possessed of a sheer abundance of non-stop flavor. The pineapple, nectarine, apricot, pear, guava fruit is spicy and prickly but, again, not long. The beeswax, rubber ready for prime time here, hard to tell if the steady acidity highlights these aspects or denudes them. Orange marmalade fumes echo through the finish. 87 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2000
$37.99
12.5%
Heavy luminescent cloudiness, makes the red violet core thick even though these hues corralled by wide garnet rims, only showing any loss at the very outer edge. Merde fumes, olive pits, horse hide, tilled fertile earth make for a richly active nose, takes a good time before the raspberry, strawberry, red cherry scents take hold, has a cloaked purity. Medium-bodied, very acidic right from the start which keeps the herbaceousness lively but adds a clipped, kind of overly “scrubbed” feel in the raspberry, red cherry, blackberry fruit, tight as if it could say more but the script says the play ends here. Green olives, lemon zest, leather, tree bark, tar struggle to spread out yet in no way weak either. The tannins are subtle if not altogether non-existent. Nice steady downward movement as it lands through the finish. 89 points
Campo, Bodegas del
Ribera del Duero, Spain
Pagos de Quintana
Reserva
Tempranillo
1998
12.5%
Enough black influence in the red-purple core to lead it down the mysterious path to opacity, holds it depth well through to the orange-red rims. There’s a huge minty burst in the nose when first opened before sour pickles, wet earth, leather, compressed wet grass and general fart takes over, the red currant, cherry scents stripped down to basics with wiry length. Medium-bodied, the acidity frames the whole proceedings, snatches the creaminess out of the rich vanilla flavors, heightens the herbal and lemony flavors and makes sure there’s tartness to spare in the cherry, raspberry fruit. Has enough of the leather, earth, merde stuff to add gravitas but not especially complex, leaves you with the impression that it’s done about all it can to blend fruit and tertiary flavors to maximal effect. Finish begins sooner than it should, like the waiter didn’t ask if you were done with that last bit before clearing the plates away. 85 points
McCrea Cellars
Yakima Valley, Washington
Cuvée Orleans
Syrah
1998
$45.00
13.6%
Impressively dark purple core, made even more so by the huge sediment particles floating throughout even after the bottle was stood up for many days, the ruby rims display a strong turn towards brick red. Takes a good long time but eventually a little grilled meat and fallen leaves/earth mixture takes hold in the nose alongside the honey coated blackberry, blueberry, black raspberry fruit scents, not especially oaky, overall tends to fade out a little before one might hope. Full-bodied, here its compact and smoothly contoured shape helps extend it nicely, the sugary qualities to the black cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit help buoy it throughout. Very light smattering of leather, earth, dried flower petals, orange juice accents, not enough to add substantial depth. As a result, comes off as entirely without flaws while at the same time not with many nuances to have merited aging it. The acidity is OK enough, tannins have a pulse. Some cocoa and vanilla extract tones through the finish. Easy to drink, that’s true. 93% Syrah, 7% Viognier. 88 points
Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Saarburger
Rausch
Auslese AP #3
Riesling
1998
7.5%
Completely amber, more zinc than gold, high level of translucency adds to the layered effect, yellows some around the rims. Sluggishly fat nose, lolls about with rubber, custard, orange marmalade, honey coated bread, pine sap and muter wet stone notes, the apricot, peach, pear fruit scents have a concentrated/candied weight to them but not sweetness. In the mouth it is full-bodied and more than makes up for the lack of sweetness in the nose, a sugar factory from start to finish. Luckily, the acidity has the fortitude to at least fight through the mid-palate, lending some zing to the tangerine, pink grapefruit, lemon citrus component. The rubber flavors fresher and fit in alongside the wild herbs, earth and pine. Absolutely displays a dried fruit character in the apricot, nectarine, pineapple, peach fruit, vivid through the finish while also tenaciously coating every mouth pore. Keeps crashing in waves against your tongue, aggressively stout. Not sure if it will get better in terms of developing cleaner contours or such. 1.5 liter bottle. 91 points
Woodward Canyon
Regional Blend, Washington
Special Selection Dedication Series #19
Blend
1999
$57.99
13.6%
Pure black core, barely a hint of purple, the thin rims are of a dense brick red hue, no real loss of intensity despite the obvious age. The nose presents a double barrel shot of coconut, mint, vanilla cream oak and bell pepper, follows on with braised meats, pine, soft clumps of wet earth, the plum, black currant, blackberry fruit in no danger of losing its richness, while not supple and integrated, grows on you over time. Medium to full-bodied, during the attack the oak influence is borderline overbearing, all toffee, coconut, dill, custard, toasted bread with nary a moment of desire to harmonize with the rest. The tannins are dulling, maybe even dullard, more or less just cloak the enthusiasm of the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit. Again, has the grill smoke, roasted meat thing but hard to know if it’s the oak or some other influence. One benefit is that the bell pepper sting gets pinched out by the wood. Caramelized finish, as sticky as chewing on hot tar. Got mucked with too much. 69.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25.7% Merlot, 4.8% Cabernet Franc. 85 points
Cedarville
El Dorado County, California
Sierra Foothills
Syrah
1999
$28.99
14.7%
Purple edges out the black in the core, either way it’s definitely opaque, unblemished, draws the light in and reduces surface shine, the ruby in the rims appreciably darkened by encroaching violet from the core. There’s an odd reticence in the nose to speak, as if it’s all there, the gun’s loaded, but no one can pull the trigger, perfectly acceptable level of cherry, blackberry fruit scents, the spice, tangerine, roasted duck and brown tobacco wrapper give it a pleasingly off-center array of scents, it just appears hesitant to really let itself go. In the mouth, this is less of a concern, it uses its whole medium body to full effect, ensures that every crevice will know it’s there. Clove, mint, marjoram and paprika give it a definite array to select from on the entry, steadily opens into orange peel, brown earth, fresh leather, clover and sweet cigar leaf. Sure, there’s caramel and brown sugar oak flavorings but they do an excellent job of knowing how to fit into the whole. Mint and pepper play with each other, neither getting the upper hand. The steady flow of blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry fruit pleasingly doesn’t go overboard looking for your attention. Has not, and probably will not, develop a great deal of tertiary depth yet still hits more than enough pleasure spots. 90 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$45.00
14.2%
The purple hued core beams with youthful confidence still, complete opacity reached, the rims mostly ruby with a bit of darkening blood red mixed in, fully saturated and vibrant. Cedar, horse hair, mountain dirt, orange peels, meadow flowers, celery make for a diverse nose, the mocha and vanilla crisp tones have, err, toned down, same for the fluidly quiet red currant, red cherry, blackberry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, tangy mouth entry filled with lemon and orange citrus, cedar, cut grass, minerally earth, the acidity makes a swift showing and keeps the mouth watering. Just really starting to show more resonant leather, tobacco accents, while it’s reasonable to expect more, hard to imagine wanting to trade off much of the exuberant cherry, blackberry, currant fruit for them. The tannic structure is sturdy while not exhibiting any desire to restrict movement. Shows off more floral swipes and bits of unpicked garden herbs nearer the end. Not many cylinders not clicked upon. Grapes sourced from the Morisoli Vineyard and Herb Lamb Vineyard. 90 points
Red Car
Santa Maria Valley, California
The Stranger
Syrah
2001
$40.00
14.0%
The black purple core is not dull, simply absorbs and deadens what light it encounters, the magenta-ruby rims have begun a slow fade to a more solid red crimson tint. Surprisingly elevated level of white grapefruit zest courses through the nose, sharpens its point to tease out more minerality and stoniness, also bringing along pickle juice, dill and shoe polish even as there’s a certain prune edge to the plum, black cherry fruit scents, the herbal dimension takes hold the more it gains air time and sits in the glass. Medium-bodied, has lost weight, as if it has to cinch the belt a notch tighter than it did in its fleshier bloom of youth. The sour oak, pickled nature persists throughout alongside the biting white grapefruit edge to keep a certain nervosity alive. Has acidity to spare, not much by way of tannin breadth. Here in the mouth the herbaceous qualities find more room to roam and don’t waste the opportunity. The red currant, cranberry, red cherry fruit angular and hits the tongue like an asteroid. Loses weight as it moves forward through the mouth so that the finish becomes more jagged than expected. Overall, not the wine you might have thought you were getting, in some respects for the better, but for a few more for the worse. 59% San Marcos Vineyard, 41% Colson Canyon Vineyard. 87 points
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Hillside
Shiraz
2000
$38.99
14.1%
The purple core is too opaque to really show more than a slight hint of red, not a lot of room left to feature the youthful crimson rims, dark and there you can see the just forming bits of very fine silt. The raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit scents bring a hard candy aspect through the nose, firms up the caramel and menthol components, only momentary wafts of salt or beef blood, remains focused on the fruit and oak as of yet, albeit not in a sloppy manner. Full-bodied and with the broad beams of tannin and acidity to support whatever floorboards there may be without it feeling like there’s a concrete beam in the middle of your living room. There’s still a sugary, hard candy feel through the fruit but that acidity gives it the freshness and polish to keep a brisk pace through the strawberry, blueberry, black cherry flavors, good alternation between red and black fruit. Thankfully possesses sufficient herbal twists and turns to counteract the caramel, vanilla pudding and whipped butter oak flavors. Mint, eucalyptus, anise notes give it a “prettier” visage, this substituting for any potential game or meat qualities yet to come. Probably going to be at its best 2-3 years out. 88 points
Muré (Clos St. Landelin), René
Alsace, France
Vorbourg Clos St. Landelin
Riesling
2002
$35.99
13.5%
Full-on orange bronze in color, the luminescent glow most present around the yellow-ochre rims, translucent with a certain flatness when viewed at an angle, coats the glass walls. There’s a wide and persistent push forward of rubber in the nose, like a motorcycle that just peeled out, any honeyed notes pale before the lemon zest, stone block scents as well as the apricot, quince, nectarine fruit, overall more power than expression suggesting a semi-closed up state. Full-bodied with iron fist grip and excellent acidic skeleton, has finishing school posture. Marmalade sourness to the orange, lemon, white grapefruit citrus component, adds length. Starts off suggesting grassiness but this quickly fades in favor of blunt stoniness and more concentrated rubber flavors. Tightly coiled nectarine, pineapple, green apple, apricot fruit, as if easy to anger. Length impaired some by a growing taciturn attitude but has fabulous primary material. 91 points
Mount Langi Ghiran
Victoria, Australia
Langi
Shiraz
1997
$31.99
13.0%
While there’s some surface shine, the black purple core is dull, the lifelessness extends through the red-ruby to scarlet rims even though there’s no reason to complain about the level of hue depth. Completely matured nose of salt, leather, dried venison, cedar, old cigars and dry vanilla extract, the currant, cherry fruit scents subtly persistent, make their point but don’t want to get caught up in any discussion of the matter. Medium-bodied, here there’s more of a pointedness to it, aided by the acidity which keeps any pruney qualities at bay, letting more natural currant, cherry, blackberry fruit through. High-toned white grapefruit and lemon citrus helps too, credit the stony earthiness as well. Rosemary, fennel, cedar, saddlesoap and a smaller quantity of dried straw give it added complexion, the oak is all dried powder, nothing soft nor round about it. Any tannins completely resolved by now. Overall leaves you with an impression more in line with an aged Bordeaux than Northern Rhône wine. Interesting for those who like to tease out nuances yet by the same token not going to offer much to those not of that mindset. 87 points
Johannishof, Weingut
Rheingau, Germany
Rüdesheimer
Berg Rottland
Spätlese AP #17
Riesling
1998
$27.99
9.0%
Not especially shiny yet the green-gold hay color has enough richness to remain steady in the glass and hold your gaze, decent concentration through the rims. The nose remains fresh and engaging with mint, violets, lemon and orange citrus with a meringue pie touch, even the rubber tire seems like it’s just off the assembly line, maybe the only sign of any aging is the semi-muted nature of the pineapple, apricot, red apple, pear fruit scents. Light to medium-bodied, has more traction than sheer weight, sticky texture. The wet sugar and honey accents bring a soft drink feel to the lime, lemon, tangerine citrus. A suggestion of dried fruit in the apricot, pear, peach, nectarine fruit lends it a tighter center. The acidity is average, dries out the finish yet doesn’t exactly provide direction. Solid florality with that minty thing as well. No problem at all throwing it back, however, not especially intellectually engaging. 88 points
Markham
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1994
$15.99
13.0%
No cloud nor silt but the black red core gets fully opaque, then out into obviously older red to orange brick hues to fashion the wide rims. Prunes and dates immediately tip you off in the nose that this ain’t no youngster, vanilla pudding, pine cone, wet tobacco and cedar fill out whatever spaces left open by the cherry, plum, currant fruit. Full-bodied, if front-loaded, pushes down hard on the tongue before releasing into vanilla powder and hard toffee oak flavors, in addition to orange peel, cedar, rosemary and licorice. The tannins ground down, making the acidity slightly more responsible for keeping it coloring inside the lines. The plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit getting kind of tired, not dead by any stretch but ready for a rest on the sidelines for a few. The slide downwards through the finish is steeper than preferred but not so that you’d lose your footing. Oak residue infuses the finish. Definitely drink up, do so via more frequent smaller sips and it’ll be that much more enjoyable for it. 87 points
Haut-Brion, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pessac-Léognan
Bahans du Haut-Brion
Blend
1998
$40.99
13.0%
Mature yet not old in appearance, a crimson red tinge influences the purple core, getting just to the other side of opacity, much more pure brick red at the rims with a light yellow-orange aura as well. The nose continues to display a wealth of plum, cassis, cherry fruit, any oak has mostly subsided in favor of cedar chips, graphite, dry black earth, garden herbs and dried orange peels, has a confidently relaxed quality to it as if it knows its right in its sweet spot to shine. Full-bodied, the fruit comes through plushly during the attack, red currant, cherry, blackberry flavors well concentrated yet yielding. Roasted game fat, pencil shavings, cedar, cigar ash, anise and lemon/orange peels more than provide points of interest through the mid-palate, especially as the fruit does proceed on a slow, steady decline towards the finish. The tannins ground down but at the same time not without fangs to bear, able to provide suitable focus. A touch herbal on the finish but not green per se. Leaves a nice swirling inner mouth perfume behind. Pretty much right when it should be drunk up, doesn’t leave one with a sense that any future tertiary flavors will be worth the tradeoff in fruit. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. 90 points
López de Heredia, Bodegas R.
Rioja, Spain
Viña Tondonia
Rosado
Tempranillo
1993
$18.99
12.0%
Deep bronze to amber color, the hue really bleaches out along the rims, maybe has a pinkish cast, perhaps a suggestion due to its existential status as a rosé. The nose is all cedar, sandalwood, orange blossom and baking spices, erect posture, as a result much more vertical than horizontal, constricts the poached apricot, peach scents, its sheer weight keeps it sloshing about in the nostrils for some time. Full-bodied, fully oxidized which makes the interplay with the razor sharp acidity all the more intriguing, borderline good cop/bad cop treatment. Lemon and orange citrus keenly penetrating, the dried flowers a kick up dust in its wake. Solid stoniness lends it a strong foundation in any storm. As in the nose, the apricot, peach, pear, nectarine fruit as much an embellishment as a main component. Has uncommon power for its class of wine, a sure surprise to the uninitiated. One could say, temporally speaking, that its trapped in amber, could last in this stage for as long as one might want to guess. Mainly Tempranillo, remainder Garnacha, Viura. 90 points
Dalla Valle
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$99.99
13.5%
No lack of blackness to darken the purple core into opacity, the wide rims present a bloody battleground between ruby and brick red hues, still fully colored but time favors the latter. The nose has a dry cotton ball texture to it, spongy and at turns compact or expansive, cedar, wood smoke, tobacco leaf and wildflowers evoke its age while spring remains in the step of the raspberry, red cherry fruit scents, momentary glimpses of beef jerky and bell pepper. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and serenely put together, arguably displaying enough finesse to be considered mannered. Surprisingly light fruit, all red, strawberry, raspberry, red cherry, watermelon, sweet like hard candy with little bottom. The tannins ground into powder but, at the end of the day, it’s a lot of powder. Not green nor especially earthy, just hits you up with the cedar, driftwood, sandalwood, pressed flowers and orange rind accents. No real oak of note. Harmonious and integrated, however, without that something special to truly warrant the price. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot. 90 points
Castillo, Casa
Jumilla
Las Gravas
Blend
1998
$19.99
14.5%
Fairly clear garnet-purple core, light enough for its clarity to become evident yet black enough to sap the glow out, the rims have this scarlet to brick red coloration which is still young but whispers orange and amber. The nose really settles into itself, confidently positions golden raisin, fig, date scents next to fresher cherry, blackberry fruit, cinnamon and nutmeg spice at peace with the lemon citrus, not overpowering but has a punch going on and quietly pulls it together. Full-bodied and just so, interesting interplay between the frame and painting, that meaning that there are no lack of tannins, however, they recognize when to ensure the light remains on the prune, plum, cherry, apricot, blackberry fruit. OK floral side, nothing special, same for the orange/lemon citrus and twiggy herbal and tea qualities. Pleasingly, a wine where the whole is indeed greater than the sum of its parts. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Monastrell. 91 points
Clavel, Domaine
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Coteaux du Languedoc
Terroir de la Mejanelle La Copa Santa
Blend
1998
$22.99
14.0%
The dense purple core passes the threshold into full opacity while the crimson rims continue to broaden as it ages, showing an incipient touch of orange too. Surprising degree of peppermint in the nose, overshadows the lilacs and garrigues as well as the orange peel, not so for the earthiness and barnyard notes, about zero loss of intensity in the plum, black cherry fruit scents. Full-bodied, a bit sleepy like it has the agility to move well but just woke up. While still minty and floral, the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit steadier on its feet here in terms of sheer weight and thrust. Cocoa crisp and cedar chips provide minor diversions. Not animal per se but does show a bit of “uncleanliness.” Tannins being ground done by time but not weak at all. Appears to be on the back end of its best drinking window. 80% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2007
Viking, Domaine du
Loire, France
Vouvray
Tendre
Chenin Blanc
1989
$32.99
12.0%
Above average reflectivity across the surface but dull beneath, this flattens out what white gold color there may be. Displays some rubbery qualities in the nose, touch of licorice and dried flowers counter-balances the earthiness and aged funk, while present, the peach, apricot, nectarine fruit scents lack thrust. Medium-bodied, concentrated sweetness in the attack, nothing powdery nor soft, accents of black licorice, mint, orange blossom and violets create an enjoyable array of complementary flavors to the semi-dried fruit in character apricot, peach, pineapple, nectarine fruit. The acidity is on the flat side, not the sparkplug you might want it to be. You get some lemon meringue and key lime pie on the finish but nothing doughy nor rubbery as compared to the nose. Relaxed mouth feel, drink up. 88 points
Mont du Toit
Paarl, South Africa
Les Coteaux
Blend
2003
Price Unknown (Not distributed in the USA)
14.0%
While more black than purple in the core, it’s very clear and noticeably shiny, the blood red rims glow menacingly. The nose bristles with minerally black earth, stone ash, cedar, bell pepper and then cocoa crisp and finely grained oak toast, the red currant, cherry fruit sleek and ultra-focused. Medium to full-bodied, possesses a great deal of dusty, grainy tannins, a pleasing partner to the ripe and savory currant, cherry, blackberry fruit. Less “sauvage” here, the silky fruit also helping to tame the earth, cedar, herbal, stone components. Becomes spicier past the mid-palate, this quashes any building floral or citric notes. Obviously young, while it can be accessed now probably best not to do so for some time. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. 90 points
Corison
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$55.00
13.2%
Black purple core with fairly broad dark ruby rims, starting to brick some yet no signs of turning lighter. Cedar, tobacco leaf, toasted coconut, leather, smoke, orange peel make for a full nose, has a real rugged feel to it, like a vinous Marlboro Man, the currant, cherry scents firm and direct, nothing even close to excess fat on it. Medium-bodied, stern and very erect with fantastically strong tannins which scrub the orange/lemon citrus and currant, plum, black cherry fruit into perfect cleanliness. Throwing a fair amount of sediment so decanting should ensure any tactile grittiness is from the tannins alone. Mountain brush, earth, leather and that full-on cedar remain potent throughout. Prickly, peppery and lively to the end. Not yet at the heights of complexity, many years ahead of it, but it you like them on the way up, pop one. 91 points
Kongsgaard & Hatton
Napa Valley, California
Hudson Vineyards
Arietta
Blend
1997
$60.00
14.1%
Although it inclines towards blackness, brick red influences also deaden the purple core, opaque and just kind of there, at the rims you can really see the battle between ruby and brick red, like two gladiators in an open field. The vanilla powder and toasty oak in the nose have been mostly absorbed, cedar and clove in their place, even with a certain earthiness as well as mint and tea leaf, not much going on scent-wise beyond the cherry, black currant fruit. Full-bodied, in the mouth its seductively smooth given its size makes an immediate positive impression, very well put together. More floral with enough cedar, leather, sweet brown tobacco to provide depth as against the cherry, blackberry, currant fruit. While there is a strong burnt edge to the mocha, vanilla oak flavors, they are most present as fumes during the finish, but they are damn present. The tannins have been beaten down a great deal, appears to be mostly wood tannin now, suggesting that, along with the exuberance of the fruit, one might best be served be drinking up in the next year or two. That’s a lot of commas in one sentence. 85% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot. 91 points
Schleret, Charles
Alsace, France
Herrenweg
Riesling
2001
$22.99
13.0%
Good richness in the yellow straw color, concentrated from the core through the rims, some green tinges. Mint, lilacs and lemon infused mineral water make up a lot of the nose, as it sits turns more honeyed, this even as there’s a lean profile shown in the pear, apple, peach scents, has plenty of grip and not shy about squeezing hard on your nose hairs. Medium-bodied, hard-nosed and full of dried extract, digs into the tongue like thick sandpaper. Rubber and some lemon oil, slate, moderate dried honey and flowers fill out the remaining array of flavors. Solid contours in the pear, peach, apple, melon fruit, good depth of flavor but all but fully desiccated. Chalky, almost salty finish. High degree of intensity. 89 points
Pillot, Domaine Jean-Marc
Burgundy, France
Chassagne-Montrachet
Morgeot
Chardonnay
2000
$64.99
13.5%
Surprisingly dark golden color, borderline bronzed, not a lot of shine, the translucency the only thing to make the rims noticeable as the hue drops out. The nose is all pie dough, honey, caramel, orange marmalade, comes across as oxidized, the peach, apricot scents reduced to lifeless dried fruit nature. Medium-bodied, there’s a decent level of acidity but it still carries those oxidative qualities, lacks pacing and brightness. The lemon, tangerine citrus adds some zest, has much more florality than in the nose which helps here too. Pie dough, honey, cinnamon there yet less overt caramel, toffee sweetness too. The pear, peach, apricot, red apple fruit has more fullness upfront, tends to meander near the finish. Light pickled aspect as residue at the end. Confusing wine. 86 points
Whitehall Lane
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$27.99
13.6%
While the purple core is dark enough to achieve opacity it doesn’t seem overdone, displays a red tint and certainly gives way naturally to the deep brick red rims. There’s a mountain air herbaceousness as well as licorice, cedar and wet saddle leather to the nose yet the plum, cherry scents remain firmly behind the wheel, the vanilla notes evoke the smell of flan. Full-bodied, the tannins have become mostly subdued, don’t feel like arguing anymore. Maple syrup, caramel and clove make the oak more evident here. Smoky though in a stony, earthy way, strong cedar tones and some pine, menthol too. No one should fear that the plum, cassis, black cherry fruit is in danger of fading, borderline fruit bomb still. In its plateau but best to wait a year or two more. Blended with small unspecified percentage of Merlot, Cabernet Franc. 90 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Lauterbach Hill Vineyard
Syrah
2002
$45.00
15.3%
Pure black core, the word opacity doesn’t do it justice, surrounded diligently by thin, if visually impactful red-orange brick colored rims, catches light glints well along the surface. Highly active nose, starts off floral then exceeded by white grapefruit, orange pekoe tea, stones, beef jerky, burnt brown sugar, the oak mostly absorbed by now, a mature quietude in the cherry, plum, blackberry scents. Full-bodied, here the caramel, mesquite smoke oak toast more evident and dominating the mouth entry. Hits you with green olives, glazed ham as stony earth and a dab of grassiness introduce a sense of harmonious balance. The tannins seem weak, as if mostly wood tannins, but the acidity more present throughout. Surprisingly, the cherry, raspberry, red currant fruit never tries to hog the spotlight. Kind of tight yet not necessarily shut down. 89 points
Turley
Napa Valley, California
Tofanelli Vineyard
Zinfandel
2002
$30.00
16.0%
Opaque murk to the purple core, lacks the brightness to fight back the black shades, the cloudiness does, however, deepen the red crimson rims to complete fullness. Jammy blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry fruit makes the nose homogenous, not quite monolithic anymore but outsized for sure, delivers eucalyptus, orange peel, mocha crisp, white chocolate, does the job in rolling over you. Medium-bodied plus, again knows well enough to spotlight the raspberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit, turns floral as well towards a swelling in the middle. Emphasis on the cocoa, chocolate oak, toasty and semi-burnt. You get some mint, licorice, rosemary, orange peel, if it’s there, it’s sweet. The tannins dead but it nevertheless manages a pleasingly dry finish. A little better than expected but not quite superlative. 88 points
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Springs
Zinfandel
1997
$24.99
14.9%
There’s a reddish brown brick influence throughout the purple core, easily yields to broad crimson hues and then garnet-orange at the outermost rims. The nose still possesses incredible sweetness and richness, molasses and brown sugar coated blueberry, blackberry, raspberry fruit rule the roost even as there’s larger portions of pine, menthol, dried game and glazed orange slices, has held onto a fair sizing of vanilla too. Medium-bodied, you can feel right away how much concentration it has shed since its youth. The brings the pine, eucalyptus, earth and mountain brush to the fore. The orange/lemon citrus and raspberry, red cherry, blackberry fruit subdued and falls to a mutter by the finish. The tannins are ground down some but have power still. Drinking well but suggests it is on the back end of its drinking plateau. 80% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 2% Carignane, 2% Mataro, 1% Grenache. 90 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Knights Valley, California
Obsidian
Syrah
2002
$36.00
14.8%
Not black but so deeply purple it might as well be, mightily resists even the slightest fade to ruby-magenta at the so-called rims. The nose is monolithic enough to make it difficult to separate out the parts, mainly floral, then some eucalyptus and maybe raw steak, quickly congeals into plum, cherry, blackberry jamminess in your nostrils. Full-bodied is putting it, ahem, lightly, more like sucking on resin than wine. Here the plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit absolutely dominates and almost obliterates any chance of other flavors achieving clear voice. That said, focus brings out candied orange peel, mint, menthol, camphor, cinnamon and caramel, even with the latter not that oaky. Nothing of real note as regards the tannins or acidity, maybe they’re there, maybe not. Basically it’s pure, unadulterated sweet fruit. 89 points
Michel-Schlumberger
Dry Creek Valley, California
Benchland Wine Schlumberger Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$75.00
13.0%
Completely opaque black purple core, attractive surface shine, thin if super-dark crimson rims, fills the glass visually and then some. For its nose you receive cedar, damp forest floor herbaceousness, merde, tobacco smoke, there’s a very thick core of toasty oak/vanilla yet its no true match for the earthiness, the red currant, cherry, cranberry scents achieve density but mostly overpowered here as well. Full-bodied, sappy and thick, the tannins are broad and attempt to cleanse but have to settle for being the quicker-picker-upper after the fact. Bell pepper, cedar, cigar leaf, stone chunks and saddle leather break in way before any currant, cherry fruit. Nevertheless, finds its balance during the back half, especially as the vanillin oak toast knits in. Tangy finish, stony with mixed white citrus and a touch of pine. No pushover. 90 points
Jota, La
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
15th Anniversary Release
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$68.00
13.5%
Good density in the purple core, about evenly split between black and red tinges, fairly broad rims which cling yet to ruby as they slide into brick red, deeply hued. Molasses, wet cedar, mountain scrub, fresh brown tobacco leaf, has held onto most of the juicy ripeness in the plum, black cherry, black currant scents, lingers if not loiters for some time. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, has a broad mouth entry, made all the more noticeable as it’s semi-hollow in the middle. Tannins lend it a sort of fuzzy, wooly texture almost like it’s whipped up in a bowl. Yet, overall, it’s not that dry, if at all mostly during the finish. Gives you the cedar, tobacco, leather and brown earth you’d expect, may be a bit more herbaceous than some might prefer. Some orange blossom accents come with the cherry, plum, raspberry fruit, however, here the latter is starting to dry out just a little. It’s a very nice wine but nothing stupendous nor warranting the price tag. 89 points
Schweiger
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Merlot
2001
$37.99
13.6%
Pitch black core, yet without the kind of dense layering which would inhibit the crimson to brick red rims from spreading widely, maintains a nice surface shine. Dark chocolate, cedar, toast and garden herbs first into the nose, followed on closely by thick plum, cassis, blackberry fruit scents, slight mentholated lift but the fruit is pretty damn heavy. Full-bodied and quite eager to spread itself thickly across your palate, while possessing sturdy tannins the innate sweetness of the plum, currant, cherry fruit an all but irresistible force. Meadow flowers, thyme, mint and straw flavors represent the major players beyond the fruit, minimal leather, earth or cedar here, still in the crib. Jawbreaking finish, as broad and wide as you’d want any wine to be, probably too much so. Some time before any final judgment to be reached. 89 points
Viader
Napa Valley, California
Dare
Cabernet Franc
2003
$42.99
13.5%
Jet black core, quite trim in terms of clarity, a heavy-set crimson to dark garnet hue saturates the broad rims. Takes some time but eventually the nose opens up to give you tobacco, ash, merde and bell pepper as counterpoint to the vanilla, chocolate component as well as the amply proportioned currant, blackberry, black cherry fruit scents, youthfully plump. Full-bodied, outstanding floral perfume billows through the mouth and freshens up the blueberry, blackberry, black cherry flavors. Touch more aggressiveness in the stone, ash, leather, tobacco accents here, more indistinct herbaceousness than offering bell pepper per se. The toasted mocha to milk chocolate/caramel oak tones more residue on the finish than consistent presence. Firmly tannic, nice and big-boned. 90 points
Schweiger
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Merlot
1997
$45.00
14.3%
Has a black purple core with a suggestion of red brick, the redness very apparent in the ruby rims, thick enough in hue that only a vague amount of orange shows through. Cedar, cigar box and leather blow through your nostrils, the vanilla scents have hardened like icing on a cake left on the counter for days, touch of grill smoke prods the plum, black currant fruit off their butt. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and almost massive in its weighty immobility. The tannins could be considered raw but the roughness remains part of their allure and the wine would suffer without it. Sweet toffee, vanilla and honey glaze embellish the attack but the tannins as well as the stony earth, saddle leather, cut grass and orange peel keep it to a minimum. Dry tang to the cherry, plum, currant fruit that brings it to the forefront but also expends its energy earlier on. Cedar and mountain air freshness waft through the finish. A bit longer and it would be virtually complete. 91 points
Wiemer Vineyard, Hermann J,
Finger Lakes, New York
Semi-Dry
Riesling
2004
$15.99
11.5%
Basic yellow color, average shine, loses concentration around the rims. Soft, gentle nose of lemon meringue, custard, peach/apricot cobbler, has a flutter of wet stone but mostly fruit and citrus, sinks in deeply. Medium-bodied, leads with mineral water with lemon and orange wedges in it, followed by vanilla custard, mint, not a great deal of sweetness in the apricot, peach, red apple fruit, a good thing since the acidity is slack. The flavors, while overall simple and monochrome, go on and on, leaves a brown sugar residue behind at the end. Nothing to really sing the praises of but flavorful and smooth, enjoyable mostly for the absence of flaws. 85 points
Montrose, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1996
$60.00
12.5%
Fully opaque black-purple core, its dullness heightened by the silty sediment, the rims are a full crimson to brick red with a hint of ochre. Brute force in the nose, a slug of cedar, horsehide, merde, wet tobacco and graphite, the black currant, cherry, plum fruit scents evince no sign of weakening, however a long distance behind the other scents. Full-bodied, dry attack swiftly lets you know that the tannins remain full of youthful grip. Elevated stoniness and minerally smoke, less leathery qualities, the cedar not as big as in the nose. Its acidity is high enough to lend bite to the cherry, blackberry, currant fruit, which might otherwise be too dulled by the tannins. The finish is tight and somewhat stunted as a result. 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc. 91 points
Paloma
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Syrah
2002
$44.99
14.8%
Virtually onyx black core, barely fits the purple in there, the crimson red rims still vital yet showing the first signs of bricking. The nose is unsettled a bit by alcoholic fumes, otherwise you get rawhide, salt and earth for a moment before caramel-vanilla oak tones and floral perfume burst forth, while there, the currant, cherry scents lost in the shuffle. Full-bodied, more toasty with a crisper oak element here, sets the tone for the caramel and molasses which try to creep in. Baked ham, clove violets next up, then orange zest and finally the cherry, blackberry fruit. Odd that the last, while always present and accounted for, never gets to solo, just as in the nose. The tannins below average, same for the acidity, propped up by weight. Putters about too much on the finish, no real punctuation point. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2007
Ceretto, Bruno
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Prapó
Nebbiolo
1998
$72.99
14.5%
The core is vaguely purple, much more brick red while the rims are a lighter orange with some yellow flecks, overall dull and with shine. Above average ripeness shows through the nose, cedar, old rose petals, fresher leather and wet brown earth, lacks lift, too concentrated to spread out and gain clarity. Full-bodied, more complete in the mouth, the acidity is the element to separate the voices of the roses, leather, tobacco, orange peel as well as scrub the currant, blackberry, black cherry fruit into shape. Cedar fumes and that orange citrus comprise most of the back half. The tannins gain traction near the finish, doesn’t shorten but tightens. Pulls it off, but not effortlessly. 89 points
Bastide Blanche, La
Provence, France
Bandol
Longue Garde
Blend
1998
$29.99
13.5%
Fuzzy kind of opacity in the purple core, really dulls the crimson rims, somewhat lifeless in the glass. Floral, meadowy breeze kind of nose, more tilled than hard earth, only lightly wooly, not showing much evolution, some passed gas for good measure, straightforward cherry, blackberry scents, dense and only semi-expressive. Medium to full-bodied, the tannins remain very much in control, displays cedar, orange zest, stone aspects before the more expected leather, wool or animal hide, again more merde than the rest of this latter grouping. The currant, red cherry, raspberry fruit is broad at first, tightens through the finish. Uneven ending, feels like a cobblestone street. Not at its best place right now. Unspecified percentages of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah. 87 points
Ducru-Beaucaillou, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1996
$119.99
13.0%
Red-scarlet influence permeates the flat purple core, the hue washes out some along the brick red rims. Very earthy, funky nose with an edge of band-aid, doesn’t evince a great deal of evolution, some cocoa notes, forceful currant, red cherry scents resist soaking in, want to keep moving forward. Medium-bodied, twin punch of acidity and tannins frame the entry and just about everything afterwards. Stone, hard earth, even the cedar flavors hard, nothing here yields easily. Black smoke, tobacco ash come on next, you almost feel sorry for the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit in there trying to find a voice. Plenty of tingle on the finish, while flavors cauterized, has presence. Killed too early. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 90 points
Brunel, Domaine André
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Les Cailloux
Blend
1999
$34.99
14.0%
Mild cloud to the red-purple core, the broad garnet rims are fully hued and with only a hint of aging. Golden raisin, prune, cherry filled nose with some thrust in the cinnamon and ginger spice tones, quietly herbaceous, some stoniness, curiously pulls up short but not like it passed a state trooper doing 90 MPH. Medium-bodied, noticeably acidic on the attack, brings out lemon citrus and stones as well as elevating the grassiness as well. Not quite dried fruit in nature, too, err, dry for that with minimal residual sugar in the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, contributes to its succinct ending. Not much to note about the tannins. Orange peel, ginger and minerality fill the back half albeit there’s not much of a sense of progression, semi-monochrome. Leaves you very unsure if it’s in an awkward stage or fully at plateau. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah/Other. 89 points
Soumade, Domaine la
Rhône, France
Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Rasteau
Fleur de Confiance
Blend
2000
$64.99
15.0%
Can’t imagine a more opaque black-purple core, flat brick red rims, some visible sedimentary particles there. For better or worse, alcohol and peanut brittle introduce the nose, then milk chocolate coated strawberries and raspberries, cinnamon and orange blossom, you’re not gonna find any scent which speaks of Rasteau per se. Full-bodied, lurches into the mouth with clumsy tannins and blackberry, blueberry, raspberry fruit that has been poked and prodded into the most appealing pose. Not overly sweet, more roughly velvety in texture, Some orange to lemon citrus, more sweet than sour. Never gets herbaceous but there’s still something bitterly twiggy about it, particularly nearer to the finish. Lacks the integration for harmonious flow. Mostly Grenache, remainder Syrah, Mourvèdre. 86 points
Soumade, Domaine la
Rhône, France
Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Rasteau
Cuvée Confiance
Blend
2000
$25.99
14.5%
Just about full opacity in the purple core, clearer around the garnet to crimson rims but still plenty saturated. Escalating fruit in the nose, plum, cherry, blackberry with sweetness, maybe not as much as it once had, cocoa and ginger as much as stone notes, not expressive per se but does at a minimum check the alcohol. Medium-bodied, arguably full-bodied but tries to substitute hard-edges for true skeletal harmony. No faulting the core of blackberry, black cherry fruit but it doesn’t get much to join it, gingerbread, orange peel, mixed dried garden herbs but the rest indistinct. The tannins leave a bigger footprint that is warranted for what the rest offers. It flows more easily than its more expensive brother. Mostly Grenache, remainder Syrah, Mourvèdre. 87 points
Red Car
Santa Barbara County, California
Thompson Vineyard
The Dreaming Detective
Syrah
2001
$59.99
15.0%
Completely onyx black core, no light gets through until at least the still youthful brick red rims, visually impressive if you don’t divorce richness from quality. Sugary plum, cassis, blueberry fruit and gingerbread, molasses and banana split, all but nothing secondary to enjoy. Full-bodied, sloth-like in its torpor, just lays across the tongue with no real plan. Cocoa, ginger, orange zest, vanilla as well as blackberry, currant, cherry flavors seep across your palate like they want to distract you from conscious thought. No tannins, less acidity. No structure, its corpulence and momentum takes it some distance. If you fetishize flavors per se it’s a god drop yet if you crave pre-thought direction and execution to get you there, better eject now. Intense but not engaging your brain. 90% Thompson Vineyard, 10% San Marcos Vineyard. 87 points
Poggio Antico
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Sangiovese
1997
$54.99
13.5%
Burnt red tinge throughout the clear but flat purple core, much more crimson red at the rims with an outer edge of orange, at some angles seems almost brown. The nose is a little chunky, not fluidly meshed, licorice and roses, bundles of hay, licorice, there’s a blast of alcoholic fumes before any cherry, raspberry scents can even get the bouncer to look at them, doesn’t dissolve as much as wander away. Medium-bodied, tannins present early enough to warrant the suspicion that the raspberry, strawberry, cherry fruit is not going to collect social security. Twigs, branches, fallen leaves, anise seed and lemon peel all come into play, yet nothing sticks out dramatically. Makes a credible push in the mid-palate but exhausted after that, making for a bitter finish. If you need a hug, there’s not much of that going on here. 87 points
Faiveley, Domaine J.
Burgundy, France
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Les Porêts Saint-Georges
Pinot Noir
1998
$43.99
13.0%
You can see through the crimson-violet core with ease, not a blemish in sight, still bricking at the rims, albeit remains crystal clear. Some barnyardy musk in the nose, twigs and bark, violet flavored chalk candy, lemon peel but you have to really dig to get at the cherry, strawberry scents. Medium-bodied, the bones in its acidic skeleton and strong and capable of taking as many blows as you want to dish out. But the 800 lb. gorilla in the room is the tannins which, while not green, induce some pucker for sure. Lemon, grass, dried mushrooms, tree bark, camphor are the clearest components. Attenuated cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit, reminiscent at moments of Robitussin. Drinkable but really only if you strike its decent pedigree from your mind. 84 points
Turley
Napa Valley, California
Atlas Peak
Mead Ranch
Zinfandel
2003
$35.00
15.4%
Plenty of darkness in the red-purple core yet too clear to really be transparent, deep ruby to light brick red rims, very well-hued. Coconut custard, menthol rub and juicy blueberry, boysenberry fruit flood the nose, given its somewhat monolithic presence it does have some lift, tangerine juice and chocolate come on before it dissolves. Medium-bodied, feels slimmed down like its gone on a diet. Still, does have a larger super-structure than the flesh to fill it. Orange/lemon citrus and a higher degree of earthiness lead the way here as menthol and mountain pine follow up, has a bit more tannic punch than expected. Well-contoured blueberry, black cherry, blackberry fruit, not over the top nor sloppily juicy yet it still can’t avoid coming across as somewhat massaged. The finish is solid enough, it’s here that the oak-derived vanilla, cocoa and coconut flavors show most. 88 points
Pontifical, Domaine
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
2001
$28.99
14.5%
Light ruby-violet in color, shines well on the surface and transparent, bright red-ruby rims show no sign of the color dropping off. Comes close to a dried fruit nature in the nose, plum, raisin mix with plum and blackberry, the grassiness breaks it up some, dollop of cinnamon and candied orange peel, dusting of salted meat, simple but persistent. Medium-bodied, dusty tannins frame the mouth entry, making the herbal qualities first up in the batter’s box. The powdered cocoa, orange and lemon peel, earth and stones take hold. The acidity has thrust as well, in the end more structure to be had than the sour cranberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit. No trace of dried fruit here. “Country wine” in style, more rugged than splashy or made for the ages. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, etc. 87 points
Knoll, Weingut Emmerich
Wachau, Austria
Loibner
Beerenauslese
Grüner Veltliner
1998
$39.99
13.0%
Somewhat flat in appearance, more visibly translucent than deeply hued, light orange-amber in color, diffuse yellow rims. There’s a strong salty, peppery edge to the nose with orange marmalade, mild rubber and smoke glimmers, as much smoothness as richness in the apricot, peach, pineapple, papaya fruit, settles in without a fuss. Medium to full-bodied, its tenacious cling gives it more apparent body than actual weight. As sweet as sour tangerine, grapefruit citrus, keeps the light on. The grassiness noticeable enough to tilt things towards fully sour, even as its overall body tends to desire sweetness. The floral dimension has a short-lived flourish in the mid-palate. Good shape in the peach, nectarine, cantaloupe, persimmon fruit, in no way flashy. The above average acidity ensures a well-scrubbed, clean finish. 500 ml bottle. 89 points
Failla-Jordan
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$48.00
13.2%
There’s a warm filminess throughout which borders on luminescence, strong scarlet influence in the purple core, also reddens the heavy set ruby rims. Cracked pepper, saltlick and dried beef jerky pair up with stoney earth to fashion a rugged, well-aged nose, in the process the floral side overcome, little oak left, the currant, red cherry scents an afterthought of sorts too. Medium-bodied, bracingly sour attack of white grapefruit, stone, leather, beef blood, saline and seaweed, turns the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit into a display of tartness. Not very tannic but does the acidity have power to spare, contributing to its slightly over-aggressive demeanor. Stays long in the mouth, full of twists and turns, more of a tongue grabber than airy lifter. 91 points
Qupé
Santa Maria Valley, California
Bien Nacido Hillside Estate
Syrah
1998
$47.99
13.5%
Trim purple core, borders on opaque, the red tint starts in the middle until it darkens the ruby rims, no visible sign of aging in the color. Taut nose, everything seemed pared down to its essence, racy white citrus and minerality twists your nose hairs while the dried beef and game pulls them out, the noticeable lack of oak means nothing there to soften the blows from the red currant, blackberry scents either, deep penetration. Medium to full-bodied, has formidable acidity which tends to firm it up and forestall any soaking in. At first the white grapefruit component is extremely sharp but it gets integrated with air time. Here the oak toast finds its voice, albeit for only a few clear notes. There’s a roasted feel in the gaminess, like the fat and juice have dried on the spit. Angular feel to the currant, red cherry, raspberry fruit, high-toned and in a rush to move forward. The vibrant finish has it tap dancing on your tongue for some time. 92 points
Kistler
Russian River Valley, California
Kistler Vineyard
Pinot Noir
2003
$75.00
14.1%
Has a semi-bright ruby to light violet core that does a slow, natural fade to brick red at the rims, holds its hue density well, average clarity and shine. Smoky nose with a hint of nail polish, takes some of the sweetness out of the candied cherry, strawberry scents, does get softened by caramel notes, mixes in straightforward, average portions of leather, wet earth and orange peel. Medium to full-bodied, block-like and slow moving, inches into the mouth and more or less stops. Appears more tannic than acidic, adding to its overall slouching. The initial sweetness in the cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit fades by the mid-palate. Earthiness then elevates, supplemented by some grassiness too. Attractive orange to lemon citrus element, adds bite. Never quite comes together the way the primary material suggests it might. 86 points
Kistler
Russian River Valley, California
Kistler Vineyard
Cuvée Catherine
Pinot Noir
1999
$80.00
14.1%
Mild murkiness in the red-purple core, not necessarily sediment, serves up fat crimson rims with a tinge of orange. Above average richness in the nose, oodles of blackberry, raspberry, black cherry fruit accompanied by sprinklings of sweet toffee and cinnamon, fresh lemon peel, in no way overwrought, plump enough to cloak any earthy qualities, more weight than complexity. Full-bodied, the tannins lend it some grit but it’s not especially dry, possesses good to very good structure. The dark chocolate and caramel flavors about it for oak influence, well-integrated and not a domineering component. Subtle trace of lemon peel, same for the murmur of stoniness. As a result, has to lean heavily on the black cherry, blackberry fruit for a center. Appealing extension through the finish with no loss of flavor depth. Nicely done. 89 points
Smith, W.H.
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Maritime Vineyard
Pinot Noir
2003
$45.00
14.5%
Clear red violet to fresh brick red in color, not much variation from the core through the rims, sits solidly in the glass. Sweet and borderline candied nose, if with a sour twist and enough grassiness to pull it back the other way, then the large caramel/toffee scents pull it back yet again, offers a suggestion of meatiness as it dissolves. Medium to full-bodied, can tell it wants to maintain a confectionary sweetness but there’s too many rocks in the road to achieve a powdery smoothness. Still, the maximal extraction of the raspberry, blueberry, black cherry fruit frontloads things for an impressive mouth entry, albeit there’s almost no juice left by the end. Offers slightly more tannins than acidity. Plentiful ginger, clove element takes over the finish. As in the nose, any earth and leather notes most apparent at the end as well. Dull finish, though, loses freshness. 87 points
Pride Mountain
Napa Valley, California
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$110.00
14.1%
The crimson infusion in the purple core prevents too much darkness and opacity, actually quite trim throughout with bright red rims and a youthful orange tint. Brawny nose, deeply penetrating with pine, bell pepper, menthol, earth leading the way, becomes meatier as it opens, consistent currant, cherry fruit scents with no peaks nor valleys. Medium-bodied, smooth and collected tannins held in check while discharging their basic responsibilities. Accents of bell pepper, grass, menthol, herbs balance out the sweeter orange pekoe tea, eucalyptus, flower petal parts. The black/red cherry, currant, blackberry fruit thick but not heavy and stretches out well. Tangy, smoky ending, quite vibrant and full of orange zest and smoke. Not a blockbuster but keeping pulling a few more rabbits out of the hat. 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot. 91 points
Cornerstone
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Beatty Ranch
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$57.99
15.3%
Super-intense ruby-purple core blends into the trim red to orange rims, very full and quite youthful in appearance. Cleansing nose of cedar, orange peel, menthol, mountain brush, doesn’t squeeze your nostril hairs but tight still, the concentrated currant, cherry, plum fruit bound up and nowhere near fading, should open more with a little additional aging. Full-bodied, there’s peppery zest in the tannins, activates the mouth entry, subsequently comes up with menthol, herbs, underbrush notes, not particularly herbaceous. The mid-palate brings out more orange peel and lemon too. Above average acidity, helps to keep it moving forward. Chewy, if not edgy, stands up real erect in the mouth. Tightens up on the finish, just keeps trying to shed weight and streamline. Give it a couple more years but not more. 90 points
Araujo
Napa Valley, California
Eisele Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002
$195.00
14.6%
There’s both red and black in the purple core, the orange to red brick rims vigorously bright but sure to deepen with age. The caramel and vanilla scents are soft and sweet alongside the juicy cherry, raspberry fruit, yet while the nose is both oaky and fruity it’s not outrageously either, without much earthiness, cedar, tobacco the lower quantity of parts create a more knit-together than expressive experience. Medium-bodied, big blunt entry with muscular tannins which never become arch or excessively drying. Grants you leather, tobacco, cedar, earth in small doses, they seem to grow as more air time provided. The currant, cherry, blackberry fruit is somewhat hard-nosed, remains fat in terms of weight but mute. Could be shutting down some but it’s not fully clicking right now. 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 88 points
Sherwin Family Vineyards
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002
$80.00
14.5%
Deep glow in the purple core, real fat with full saturation in the crimson rims, no paucity of color for sure. Hugely fruity nose of blackberry, black cherry, plum fruit with a curious green apple edge, hot milk chocolate, cinnamon and orange peel, grows and grows in the nostrils until it loses shape. Full-bodied, soft but not necessarily wimpy, by the mid-palate the tannins gain traction and grab it by the collar to stand upright. Fairly spicy in a more sweet than sharp manner, a mixture of lemon meringue, dill and rosemary herbs, just a lagging touch of earthiness. The juicy cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit long and friendly. Doesn’t achieve vast complexity but hits the sweet spot solidly. Contains small unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Dunn
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1994
$42.99
13.0%
The purple core is dulled by blackness, the semi-broad brick red rims starting to take on an orange cast. The nose produces cedar, tobacco, wild meadow grasses, stone aspects, remains relaxed in both these earthier qualities as well as robust blackberry, red currant, cherry scents, ends with an almost delicate floral lift. Full-bodied, wide and aggressive mouth entry, the tannins still kicking up a dust on the tongue, sure to outlast the currant, cherry, raspberry fruit. Real lemony, echoes of lemongrass or wheat germ as a result. Has great stoniness and dry earthiness while never becoming “hard” as a result. Enjoyable stuff that is in a good drinking window now, doesn’t match the producer’s rep as glacially evolving. 89 points
Marshall Cellars
Napa Valley, California
Juliet Peery Proprietary Blend Beckstoffer Reserve
Blend
2002
$65.00
14.6%
The small purple core easily gives way to scarlet red way before the rims, full red there, no loss of intensity. At first the nose is all toffee then mint, flowers and orange peel chip away, billows in the nostrils like a pregnant cloud, very ripe plum, cherry scents, not a lot of shape but its sheer size keeps it around for some time. Full-bodied, features a decidedly sweet attack, all but entirely caramel, toffee, vanilla ice cream flavoring. The mint and eucalyptus do little to disrupt this, eventually more contrasting game, tobacco, cedar nuances add a bit of dimension. Mostly red currant, cherry, raspberry fruit, even suggests strawberry at times. Big and simple-minded, like a gentle giant. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot. 87 points
Ravenswood
Sonoma Valley, California
Old Hill Ranch
Zinfandel
1998
$45.00
14.8%
Dull black core, little purple left, very wide rims about evenly ruby and brick red, more color at rims than core. Chocolate accents help bolster the flagging plum, cherry fruit scents in the nose, salty game and earth elements play a big part, whatever oak toast which was there faded now, dissolves with an increasing herbaceousness. Medium-bodied, dry and tannic, the fruit and other flavors have begun to dry out, not as much cherry, blackberry, plum left as even a couple of years ago. Here it’s more floral than chocolaty, both of moderate thrust. Pleasingly, gains weight and depth with air rather than fade further. As a result, cinnamon and orange peel appear over time. Earthy finish, more chewy than fluid, gristle in the meat. No sense holding further. 86 points
Bründlmayer, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Zöbinger
Heilingenstein
Riesling
1998
$36.99
12.0%
Very dark golden color, close to a light yellow amber, translucency distracts from the above average surface shine, only a little fade at the rims, looks aged but vigorous. The nose has gained a lot of concentration and sappiness, while lacking movement does cling tenaciously, rich, if dry, quince, pineapple, peach, melon almost mango fruit scents, major rubber tire component, enough so to cover over the stoniness, avoids lactose notes which would detract from freshness. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and thick enough to match the nose. However, here there’s the acidity to both ensure dryness and some focus but as well ratchet up the tangy bite in the tangerine, white grapefruit citrus and pineapple, nectarine, papaya, pear fruit. Switching of positions between the rubber and stone aspects with the latter ascendant. Maintains tingle all through the finish but the flavor intensity drops a tick. Tiny grassy edge. Not 100% complete but has the right attitude, for sure. 90 points
Kongsgaard
Napa Valley, California
Hudson Vineyards
Syrah
1998
$100.00
14.1%
The opaque purple core as much black as red, color really only truly develops at the flat red-ruby rims, oddly lifeless in appearance. The nose lacks expressivity, does present molasses coated bacon, mint, orange peel and battling older scents of oak toast and vanilla but none have true length, more or less the same to be said of black currant, black cherry scents. Full-bodied, mostly so because of tannic super-structure which remains intact, as does the acidic bite. The cherry, blackberry, plum fruit has fallen off appreciably, leaving it dry by the mid-palate and very much so by the finish. Orange and lemon citrus, dried grass, bacon and beef jerky the strongest elements. The oak toast ground into a powder which adds to the filminess in the mouth. Cliff dives at the end. 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier. 86 points
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