Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in December 2008
School House
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Pinot Noir
1997
$65.99
Flat ruby-violet hued core yields easily to aged orange, red brick hues at the rims, doesn’t strike you visually as over the hill, just obviously aged. Big, effusive nose of merde, wet kindling smoke, tart raspberry, strawberry fruit, wet pine needles and forest floor matter, sour lemons, the nose has a lot going for it without seeming desperate. Full-bodied, broad attack which fills the mouth, just enough tannin and acidity to drape the red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, not cover it. Lowkey grassy, piney, lemony dashes, while they feel like add-ons they do deepen the whole experience. Strong sour twist at the end. Oak toast and butterscotch still quite in evidence. Not bad at all, if at times rough edged.
87 points
Kistler
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Pinot Noir
2000
$98.99
14.1%
Light cloud to the garnet red, orange and slightly violet hued core, the rims show a dusky burnt quality with attractive fullness. Texturally, the nose billows like clouds out of a smokestack, slight roast to the raspberry, strawberry, watermelon scents but too light and “red” to accrete, airy presentation of the rose petals, orange blossom and cola accents, while has good length is a touch hollow. Medium-bodied, some prune/raisin sneaking in and concentrating the base of cherry, blackberry, raspberry flavors. Sweet and sour lemon, mandarin orange citrus adds percolation. Light tannins, the acidity feels a bit forced but does get the job done of siphoning off any excess. Oak toast, smoke, butterscotch hard candy and caramel naturally find their place in the whole. Spicy finish too. This is probably at or past peak, more thrust than balance/integration. 88 points
Dehlinger
Russian River Valley, California
Goldridge Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$32.00
14.2%
The red-purple core about equally split between filminess and clarity, some shine across the surface, the rims possess traces of ruby while mostly garnet to brick red and getting more so. Nice cut to the nose, takes the angle quickest to the goal line, the caramel and molasses now subordinate to crisper ginger, clove spice, you get baked ham and orange blossom too, enjoyable consistency and non-pushiness to the plum, black cherry scents. Medium-bodied, here the acidity really sets the tone, keeps the pacing uptempo in spite of the oaky molasses, butterscotch, clove, churned butter flavors. The spice influences and sharpens the sour plum, currant, blackberry fruit. Credible level of citric bite found in the orange, grapefruit, lemon. Minerality rests gently on the tongue through the finish. Does seek the high point just consistency. Achieves it. 89 points
Clavelier, Domaine Bruno
Burgundy, France
Bourgogne
Passetoutgrain Vieilles Vignes
Blend
2005
$12.99
12.5%
Garnet to violet hued core, a touch dull, takes on a more red-magenta glow along the rims. Big funk in the nose, on the reductive side perhaps, flatulence and mildewed earth before releasing crushed wildflowers and grasses, sour orange peel, the thickness of the raspberry, black cherry scents sort of lost in the mix, bottom heavy without much movement in the nostrils. Medium-bodied, more clarity and streamlined nature here, however, still about as “sauvage” as this type of wine gets. Raspberry, cranberry, red cherry, pomegranate fruit showing more power than finesse, feels bottled up and ready to charge. The barnyard character remains, mud, earth, straw, merde. Needs 3-5 years at least to chill. Unspecified percentages of Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir. 88 points
Desaunay-Bissey, Bruno
Burgundy, France
Vosne-Romanée
Les Rouges
Vieilles Vignes
Pinot Noir
2004
$31.99
13.5%
While transparent, there is a filminess to the garnet red to violet color, takes on a red to orange brick tint along the rims. Very dusty nose of fallen leaves, twigs, dried tea leaves, spiced oranges and clove, some reticence in the raspberry, cranberry, red cherry fruit scents, with air time a flowery waft bolsters the fruit some. Medium-bodied, at first it’s the invigorating acidity you notice, by the end it’s the powdery tannins which coat the tongue. Perfectly ripened cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit, sweet without pushing to a dried or roasted level, good mix of black and red fruits. Orange peel, cinnamon, tea leaf, light hint of tomato skin. Light earthiness but it’s really the texture which gives it balls. The weave needs to tighten some, should be there in about 7-8 years. But would drink it again tomorrow too. 89 points
Tesoro, Tenuta Poggio al
Tuscany, Italy
Solosole
Vermentino
2006
$20.99
14.0%
Softly glowing green-yellow color, not translucent per se, more clouded over like viewed behind a thin sheet of paper, rims diminished. Pine resin, grapefruit pith comes first, the nose even has a rubbery dimension, lowish fruit of nondescript apple, pear, peach scents, pushes blockishly into the nostrils. Full-bodied, unusually powerful and intent on making an impression, more mouth weight and extract than flavor. Moderate pear, yellow apple, peach fruit alongside orange to lemon citrus. What grassiness there is helps to bring life and lift to the whole. Some doughy notes, the so-so acidity doesn’t resist the encroaching breadiness. Somewhat sour twist at the end, again serves to relieve homogeneity. 85 points
McCrea Cellars
Yakima Valley, Washington
Cuvée Orleans
Syrah
2003
$48.99
14.8%
A fair amount of blackness infuses the purple core, good separation between that and the crimson red rims. Creamy toffee, soft caramel, vanilla fudge in the nose, followed on by orange blossom, thick cherry, blackberry, almost blueberry, scents, smattering of grass and barnyard earth, little sign of development, plump and primary. Medium-bodied, sweet attack of mesquite smoke, molasses, honey, caramel, butterscotch. Full-on cherry, boysenberry, blackberry fruit without appearing extracted, sugary and ripe. Tannins not doing much, not “unstructured” but doesn’t express its structure clearly. Has orange peel, pine and floral dew flourishes but not as a real contrasting group to the fruit. Might like a bit more Syrah pepper or game qualities. 85% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, 3% Viognier. Sourced from Boushey Grand Côte and Ciel du Cheval Vineyards. 87 points
Müller-Scharzhof, Weingut Egon
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Scharzhofberger
Kabinett AP #3
Riesling
2000
$22.99
8.0%
Full bronzed amber color, clear yet remains on the dull side, the rims show and older yellow shade. Super rubber tire in the nose, only a little acrid petrol, the quince, pineapple, guava, nectarine scents thick and persistent, shares some candied orange peel and light herbal tones, with air time develops some minerality. Full-bodied, the acidity still raging at the machine, however, there’s a somewhat maderized quality which makes the texture filmy and dry. Lemon, grapefruit, tangerine citrus zesty and sour. The pineapple, mango, papaya, nectarine, apricot and green apple fruit attacks nicely but does fall off noticeably past the mid-palate. Mild rubber tones, the bread/dough aspect more obvious. Peaked, should stay on this plateau for a few more years. 88 points
Etxaniz Txakolina
Chacolí de Guetaria, Spain
Getariako Txakolina
Txomin Etxaniz
Blend
2006
$13.99
11.0%
Bright yellow color with plenty of translucent layers below, whitens some at the rims, some bubbles persist well after the pour. Attractive saline and wet mineral quality to the nose, floral notes more crisp than dewy, same could easily be said for the peach, pear, apple scents, solid presence in the nostrils without overfilling. Medium-bodied, yet every inch of it sculpted steel, the acidity amplifies with each additional sip until your palate is so scrubbed it may scab over. More of the mix of saline, minerals, stones with increased grassiness and added lemon, orange to white grapefruit citrus. Never intended as a focus, the peach, pear, nectarine, green apple fruit maintains a consistently lowkey presence. Swatches of honey and licorice smooth out the finish. A lean, mean fighting machine. 85% Hondarribi Zuri, 15% Hondarribi Beltza. (Synthetic Cork: Nomacorc) 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in November 2008
Boekenhoutskloof
Franschhoek, South Africa
Cabernet Sauvignon
2005
$44.99
14.5%
The darkness of the violet core not impaired by squeaky cleanliness, more of a burnt crimson at the rims, sleek surface. Heavy bell pepper, tobacco and tar in the nose, scrubs your nostrils roughly, smoky with a grill fat aspect, focused and trim cherry and raspberry scents, more dried out grass than flat out herbaceousness, strong presence overall. Full-bodied, the heavy oak treatment mars the cleanliness of the cherry, red currant fruit and ratchets up the smokiness to getting almost gamey. Soft tannins, when the bell pepper, tar, asphalt, tobacco leaf kicks in, the wine finds itself. Does end on a bright note, shedding some of the flattening creaminess. 88 points
Cerro, Fattoria del
Tuscany, Italy
Poggio Golo
Merlot
2001
$56.99
14.0%
Slight murk to the purple core, darkens it through to the deep ruby rims, has a nice burnt orange edge too. Full cedar, wet fallen leaves, orange rinds and old vanilla bean in the nose, slight roasted edge to the cherry, plum, currant scents, no problem filling up your nostrils, has a gentle fade given its obvious age. Full-bodied, very sweet attack with black currant, cherry, blackberry fruit featured alongside cedar, slate and an odd rubbery note. The tannins ground down so things stay full and rich, only truly dries out at the finish. Heavy vanilla cream yet it feels like it belongs with the whole. Offers up orange peel, dried flowers, at the end more leather and tar nuances appear. The candied nature suggests a ripe vintage. 89 points
Lynch-Bages, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Blend
1993
$33.99
13.0%
Light, mostly transparent violet to brick red color, showing more orange and yellow tint along the rims. The nose features the expected bell pepper, tar, graphite, old tea bag elements, some merde stink, even with a vaguely roasted note to the cherry, plum fruit retains most of its freshness, smoky as it dissolves with more butterscotch, never crests but stays steady. Light to medium-bodied, the high degree of acidity detracts from overall impression of weight yet helps establish a brisk pacing. The flavors possess an angular feel, grapefruit and lemon citrus, stone, slate, grass, cedar, not much relaxation here. Moderate cherry, red currant fruit. The years have weakened it but not its resolve to fight. If you enjoy old “claret” the characteristics are there. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 87 points
Torres, Miguel
Penedès, Spain
Mas La Plana Black Label
Cabernet Sauvignon
2003
$58.99
14.0%
Light violet to red-ruby coloration, only slight diminishment towards the rims into red/orange brick hues. Butterscotch, toffee infuse the nose, raisin, date fruit scents, baking spices, clay and rubber accents impede sense of flow, so while slow does have a pleasing lift to it. Full-bodied, the attack is dense and it sheds a lot of weight as it progresses. It is more acidic than tannic, this brings out more grassiness, tea leaf and twig notes than otherwise might be the case. The cherry, red currant fruit stays tart and penetrating, helps it keep the pace aggressive. The wood tannin does play a supporting role in structuring and brings with it some dill shades. While an obviously good wine not as smooth and naturally integrated as it should be. 87 points
Mina, Herri
Southwest France, France
Irouléguy
Blend
2004
$21.99
13.5%
While the color is pale yellow there’s an intense glow to it which certainly helps it fill out the glass, translucency lends some depth as well. Keenly edged nose of green apple, pineapple, pear fruit and white grapefruit citrus, the minerally scents verge on steely at times, good smoky rise and fullness, keeps moving forward like its got many more miles to cover. Full-bodied in a sculpted, unmoving sort of way, punches its way into your mouth and then stands there waiting for you to make the first move. The acidity has both breadth and cut, definitely running the show from the first word. More herbaceous here in the mouth, fits together with the minerals and metal flecks. The same green apple, pear, pineapple, papaya fruit shines through, no juiciness just 100 watt brightness. Lots of white grapefruit. Could scrub the Teflon off your pots and pans. Unspecified percentages of Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, Courbu. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in August 2008
Tamar Ridge
Tasmania, Australia
Josef Chromy Selection Botrytis
Blend
2001
$19.99
10.5%
Neither dull nor resplendent, the orange amber to yellow weakens along the rims, looks more like a mixture than a specific color. The nose too lacks harmony, each part clear but unsure of how to work together, rubber, raw dough, honey, lilacs, orange/tangerine citrus, sweeter pickle brine, the apricot, nectarine, mango, guava fruit scents appear hurried in at the last second. Full-bodied with broad shoulders and squared feet, wiry like a bulldog. The acidity more punches than cuts, the blunt impact delays the dulcet tangerine, lime and pink grapefruit citrus in addition to the dried fruit in concentration nectarine, pineapple, apricot, guava fruit. Attains a moderate level of florality, here, though, the rubber and dough elements both diminished. No real grassy, earthy nor stony moment. Just a full-on dessert wine with no intent to be otherwise. Unspecified percentages of mainly Riesling, smaller amount of Sauvignon Blanc. (375 ml bottle) 87 points
Negri, Nino
Lombardy, Italy
Valtellina Superiore
Inferno
Nebbiolo
2002
$19.99
13.0%
As much blackish red in the core as purple, more transparent than not, the broad rims present red-orange hues with good strength through the outer reaches. In spite of the solid core of candied cherry, the nose is dusty with straw, dried earth and merde trumping any orange peel and rose notes, given its overall dryness does linger very well. Medium-bodied, the acidity causes a big pucker in the mouth and creates a sour impression in the cherry, raspberry fruit as well as the lemon, orange citrus. Herbaceous and stony, the fruit here stands up better for itself, aided by licorice accents. On the rough hewn side, at times a little alcohol shows. But it keeps coming back to its strengths and doesn’t overreach. 88 points
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Vieilles Vignes des Minots
Chardonnay
2000
$27.99
13.0%
Filmy dullness to the old yellow gold to light orange hues, the core deeper than the rather dilute rims. The nose oozes oak, buttered toast, butterscotch, toffee, vanilla pudding, beyond that arises some orange peel, freshly baked bread, honey and mint, the apple, pear, apricot scents almost strike you as an afterthought. Medium-bodied with a lot of its weight front-loaded, can’t fault the acidity which kicks as hard as it can. Nor should blame be placed at the feet of the minerality and shale stone, perfectly adequate. The tangerine, white grapefruit, lemon citrus possesses attractive tang. It’s simply that the wet toast, butterscotch, caramel oak and raw pie crust dough shackles its ankles. Rounder contours here in the apricot, pear, pineapple, yellow apple, pomegranate fruit. Trails off noticeably past the mid-palate. The ox had a premie perhaps. 86 points
Selbach-Oster
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Zeltinger
Sonnenuhr
Auslese*** AP #13
Riesling
2000
$32.99
8.0%
At the point where there’s as much amber orange as yellow gold in the core, still light and not overly concentrated in hue, the rims empty out into transparency, average surface shine. The nose is very tropical, filled with pineapple, guava, nectarine and star fruit alongside tangerine to pink grapefruit citrus scents, however, there’s also ample crushed stone, chalk and rubber to deaden the former, no milkiness nor other sign of advancing age. Full-bodied, much more honeyed and sweeter here even as it maintains that grapefruit, tangerine tang. The acidity claws its way to the forefront and manages to wring a good bit of sugar out of the pineapple, mango, guava, apricot fruit. More saline than stone here, the rubber element more subdued. Light spritz of flowers or mint. Still a dessert level wine but could dry up into more of a table wine with additional aging. 375 ml bottle. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2008
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Chardonnay
1999
$34.99
13.0%
Solid enough golden color, while lacking in luster the hue does reach to the rims. Mint, freshly cut flowers and a spoonful of whipped cream adorn the nose, pretty to the point of trying to hide the edgier mineral and stone dust parts, you get more lemon peel than peach, apple, pear fruit scents, very light there. Full-bodied, the acidity has your mouth watering right off and heightens the lemon/lime citrus immediately. While there are honey and baked bread notes, it does not at all come across as oxidized. Excellent percentage of slate, seashell, chalk components, less minerally per se, yet more salty. More thrust to the apricot, peach, yellow apple fruit, if still narrow in scope. Its grip extends for some time. One that delivers on expectations. 91 points
Baumard, Domaine des
Loire, France
Savennières
Trie Spéciale
Chenin Blanc
1997
$24.99
13.9%
Watery old gold color, extends through the dilute rims, not really much to look at here. Very smoky nose, borderline briny, the muscular lift leaves a lot of the pineapple, peach, apricot scents behind, serves up some muted tangerine to lemon citrus, more wooly than fruity. Full-bodied, for all of its sparkle and pop through the attack, the weight impresses the most, dry extract. The acidity kicks you when you’re down, not mean just intent on finishing its job. Lilacs, mint, orange blossom provide pockets of relief. More consistent is the wet stone and slate side, smooth surfaced, little minerally bite. Wool, tar nuances build slowly. Near the finish releases some weight but only so much. Needs time to open if popped today as well as time alone for tomorrow. 90 points
Adams, Tim
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Botrytis Affected
Riesling
1999
$17.99
12.5%
The zinc orange core borders on brown, has an unsmudged translucency, lighter pumpkin flesh to yellow colored rims. The rubber tire notes have to sneak in first in the nose because soon after that it’s all apricot cobbler, peach pie and lemon custard some honey or molasses but little there beyond the fruit. Medium to full-bodied, not as ponderous as the nose might suggest, uncooked dough and honey better supplement the rubber here and break the hegemonic homogeny for the savory tangerine, pink grapefruit citrus. The acidity is at least able to slice the apricot, nectarine, pineapple, guava fruit into bite sized pieces. Floral water and something like hot peppers boost the second half, makes an admirable stab at being more than an one trick pony. (375 ml bottle) 87 points
Mayacamas
Napa Valley, California
Napa Mountain
Zinfandel
1970
13.5%
Extremely opaque and cloudy, even after decanting, the black-red core fits with the red to orange to yellow rims, definitely looks its age. Big sour and briny nose of pine sap, eucalyptus, wildflowers as well as butterscotch and cherry, red currant fruit scents, bit of leather, has good length but the parts start to blur into each other with time. Medium-bodied, very acidic, starts out with a pinch and bite that bruises. The orange and white grapefruit citrus kicks you too. The cherry to red currant fruit attenuated but by no stretch dead. Even with the pine, menthol, spice components, everything is arch and penetrating. Still maintains that briny pickle edge. Interesting and worth trying but it’s more or less relegated to a curiosity today. 87 points
Wagner Stempel, Weingut
Rheinhessen, Germany
Siefersheimer
Heerkretz
Spätlese AP #11
Riesling
2005
$42.99
8.0%
White-yellow hay color of semi-transparency, not a lot of shine but sits solidly in the glass. Salty, minerally nose with lemon/lime accents which have a custard feel, blends in rubber, mint, menthol, stone and then lusciously cloying apricot, peach, pear fruit scents, amazingly able to turn open by the dissolve. Medium-bodied, consciously starts you off with tangerine, pink grapefruit, lime citrus, powdered sugar, honey, blindingly sweet. The acidity begins slowly but by the mid-palate is cranking well. The juicily ripe apricot, peach, pear, nectarine fruit lasts well through the finish. Sparkles and sparkles, no development at this early stage and too much baby fat to even intuit what might most likely come. 89 points
Failla
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Estate Vineyard
Syrah
2003
$48.00
14.9%
Moderate clarity with some general duskiness, the purple core doesn’t seem especially extracted yet does darken the ruby-magenta rims, no visible signs of aging. In the nose the florality gains the upper hand on the leather, smoked meat notes and spotlights the grapefruit/orange citrus notes, there’s vague cream and toast but no real oakiness, the plum, cherry scents more demure than faded. Full-bodied, bottom-heavy in spite of the fact that the tannin yet creates some uneven turbulence. There’s a sticky “lollipop left in the sun” quality to the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit, sugary and makes you want to lick your fingers. Moderate advancement in terms of braised beef, molasses and bacon fat, more offered in terms of lemon peel, grass and an intermittent stoniness. The oak caramel swells in the center and helps to smooth out the overall profile. Lots of retronasal perfume, extends presence through finish. Eminently chugworthy. 89 points
Bassermann-Jordan, Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. Von
Pfalz, Germany
Forster
Jesuitengarten
Spätlese AP #44
Riesling
2001
$26.99
9.5%
Light, bright yellow-green straw color, sparkly to the point of your not noticing the hueless rims, the glints of light keep catching your attention. Soft, yielding rubbery notes in the nose, rife with fat peach, apricot, nectarine, cherry fruit as well as mandarin orange, lime notes, a mild creaminess solidifies its presence in the nostrils, hugs rather than turn to liquid. Full-bodied, balanced for its high level of sweetness, gives you both barrels of candied orange, tangerine, pink grapefruit citrus and cobbler-like peach, apricot, pear, pineapple fruit. The acidity huffs and puffs but still falls short of channeling the fruit. With increasing floral paste and honey it sweetens your face into a smile. A hint of grassiness elevates the finish. 88 points
Rostaing, Domaine René
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1990
$42.99
12.5%
Crystal clear medicinal red-orange to garnet colored core, lightens towards the rims, amazingly and utterly spotless. Aggressive nose of leather, wet grass, wet caves and a touch of mildewed moss, the caramel and butterscotch oak notes cannot soften the former nor the mineral, animal hide bits, hard-nosed lemon zest and red cherry, red currant fruit lifts like a jet fighter, acceleration over presence. Medium-bodied, confidently swaggers into the mouth with tar, bark, black tea leaf and then a cutting white grapefruit, lemon bite. For a moment there’s toffee and caramel but when the acidity takes over, that’s a torrent that you can’t fight. Regal haughtiness in the cherry, raspberry, currant fruit but little succor. Unbridled energy forgives whatever flavor richness falls of during the finish. Excellent but drink soon. 92 points
Cheval Blanc, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1983
$475.00
12.0%
Excellent clarity in the sunset red-orange colored core, the rims stained by lighter orange to yellow hues, noticeably an older wine but the colors remain vibrant. Huge presence in the nose, sinewy and smoky grips and releases like it’s squeezing a rubber ball, there’s graphite, slate, bell pepper, wet bagged grass, thick and seductively voluptuous red currant, plum, cherry scents, out of nowhere a floral musk sweeps through. Medium to full-bodied, grazes the tongue like velour, the currant, cherry, raspberry fruit sweet and sour at once, the grapefruit pith, tar, leather and grass ground the experience, bell pepper lifts it. With time you get more iron, iodine notes. The tannins are suave yet not taking any back talk, once it kicks you in the shins it lets the acidity push you to the sidewalk. Caramel sweetness lingers at the end. Has the energy to wash over the palate repeatedly before finally finishing. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec. 93 points
Joanin Bécot, Château
Bordeaux, France
Côtes-de-Castillon
Blend
2002
$29.99
13.0%
Reddish purple colored core, then deep brick red rims of youthful saturation. At first the nose is full of coconut, coffee and custard scents before a big burst of merde and wet earth gain space, stays spicy with tangy orange peel notes, while there’s nothing wrong with the level of currant, cherry fruit it’s not the show stopper here. Full-bodied, very dusty tannins, both natural and wood tannin in feel. Toast, coffee bean again spar with leather, animal hide and merde. More tannin. Even after decanting. Sharp spice present but at first less orange, lemon citrus. No real softening agent such as florality. Tart currant, cherry, raspberry fruit shortened by the tannin. At the finish kind of seizes up although the foundational material provides some hope for future resolution. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. 86 points
Hudelot-Noëllat, Alain
Burgundy, France
Vosne-Romanée
Les Malconsorts
Pinot Noir
2002
$72.99
13.5%
Crystal clear garnet-red to violet hued core, light enough there to not appear washed out around the even more transparent rims. In the nose it pulls out all the stops to strive for a “vin de garde” character, merde, grasses, minerals, tree bark, tar, mushroom, lemon peel, the cherry, raspberry scents taut and wiry. Medium-bodied, tough and lean like a skinny punk rocker bloodied from stage diving. Angular character to the lemon, white grapefruit citrus, hay, flowers and minerals. Has the acidity to match too, shears off any more forgiving aspect. The merde, brown earth, grass accelerates during the mid-palate. Some tannin present near the finish, hard to register given the perceptible acidity. Tightens as it progresses, stifled finish. Still, has all the verve and energy you’d want, needs to settle down over a few more years. 89 points
Salisbury
Victoria, Australia
Botrytis
Sémillon
2002
11.5%
Full-on orange color fading to a washed out sand yellow hue around the rims, translucent until you get about an inch away from the glass. The nose has a fresh mint to pine quality without the scrubbing sensations, same for the grapefruit, lemon, orange inklings, no honeyed nor milky notes, centers itself unobtrusively around the apricot, peach, nectarine scents. Full-bodied, never super-thick but thick enough and consistent start to finish. Not a great deal of acidity but there’s more punch in the tangerine, grapefruit citrus nonetheless. Serious apricot paste, followed on meekly by pineapple, nectarine, guava flavors. More floral here, less mint or pine. Again, little evidence of honeyed notes besides the massive concentration of the fruit. Enjoyable but a one trick pony. (375 ml bottle) 87 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Sonoma County, California
Cuvée Christine
Syrah
2004
$57.00
15.6%
The saturation in the purple core darkens it well, the broad red-magenta rims blend in some brick notes, clear throughout. Pressed flowers mixed with brown earth, straw, herbs give the nose a rugged profile and push the red currant, blackberry scents into the background, hardly any discernible oak, stays angular and thick-skinned. Medium-bodied, minerally with a solid burst of pink grapefruit, tangerine citrus. Smoky with a touch of mesquite but, again, not overtly oaky. The currant, plum, cherry fruit is dry, more tang than sugary sap. Menthol flowers, herbs there yet not really prettying up the other elements of earth, matted grass, tar. No hurricane going to knock these steel beams over, structure never wavers. 89 points
Vasse Felix
Western Australia, Australia
Margaret River
Cane-Cut
Sémillon
2004
$21.99
12.4%
Both thick and bright orange-amber color, highly reflective given its layering, fades gently to a dark yellow along the rims. The nose is oddly mute, you have to really breathe in to get the peach, apricot, nectarine scents, murmur of cinnamon, flower petals or butter cream, curious notes of pickle brine at times. Full-bodied, redeems itself in the mouth with impressively thick and sugary apricot fruit, supplemented by nectarine, peach, pear flavors. Avoiding turning cloying as the acidity level is very nice and here there’s tangerine and grapefruit zest to add cut. Some molasses crisp but basically devoid of any baking spice or caramel, toffee type accents, lending it more purity. Its innate weight combines with a clingy sappiness to forge an extended finish. A big bruiser which at moments can also refresh. (375 ml bottle) 90 points
Campion
Edna Valley, California
Pinot Noir
2001
$36.99
13.8%
Very consistent ruby-violet color throughout, extremely transparent without seeming light of hue, strong rims. The nose has a sweet, candied nature in the raspberry, blackberry, strawberry fruit and the cola nuances certainly supplement this, not that floral but does present this unique bell pepper streak, only a suggestion of butterscotch for oak influence, forms a thick mist in your nostrils. Medium-bodied yet so evenly spread throughout the mouth that from start to finish it has exactly the same weight and has minimal sense of movement. The orange to lemon citrus a welcome addition here, pairs with the cola well. The bell pepper almost morphs into jalapeño at times. Tannins soak up the excess sugar in the raspberry, blackberry flavors, concentrate them too. Given the power it has at hand avoids turning brooding. Grapes sourced from Firepeak Vineyard. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2008
Arcadian
Santa Ynez Valley
Westerly Vineyard
Syrah
2003
$33.99
14.9%
Super-saturated and glowing purple-black core, unblemished surface, the rims a dark, brooding red-magenta with a strong violet influence. The nose leads with a floral and mixed citrus zest appeal yet this swiftly recedes in favor of stone powder, flint and dried meadow grasses, the black currant, blackberry scents tightly wound, not lacking in depth but not so pliant. Full-bodied, steel bars of tannins cage the savory cherry, Italian plum, currant fruit but it’s no straightjacket. Ample open spaces exist for the orange to lemon citrus, potpourri musk and light toast to display themselves. Never out of proportion to the whole, the mineral powder, salt and dusted stones march along from start to finish. The acidity tightens up the finish into a brisk, concentrated punch. Latent power. 89 points
Failla
Napa Valley, California
Phoenix Ranch
Syrah
2002
$38.00
14.4%
Placidly settled in purple core, makes no big deal that it is opaquely dark, the rims based in red ruby, however, deepened appreciably by the encroaching purple. While the nose is quite floral, and stretches out well via white grapefruit and pine needle notes, there’s a sort of flatness to it, the black currant, black cherry scents loll about, no oakiness, makes you think a jolt of toastiness might not be that bad. Full-bodied, broad and thick, fills it up horizontally and vertically. The tannins coat sufficiently to dry out the sap from the cherry, plum, currant fruit, lending it a somewhat dried fruit character without the sugar. Some molasses bacon fat and cedar, orange peel and eucalyptus but not a lot going on to suggest development, present or future. Moderate caramel/vanilla swirl. This noted, all the parts act in concert and drinking it is no chore. 89 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2001
$40.00
16.5%
Violet-ruby throughout, clear with the rims ditching the ruby-magenta of youth in favor of more red-garnet. Eucalyptus, pine, leather and back earth give the nose an expected mountainous feel, the ripeness of the raisin, date to cherry, plum fruit fit with the cinnamon to clove spice, orange glaze, honey, once all this takes over, it’s basically a night spent at the dessert counter. Medium-bodied, the acidity smoothes out a little of the excess sweetness here, brings out green apple notes among the golden raisin, date, cherry, blackberry fruit. More floral in the mouth as well, additional chocolate notes too. However, the pine and menthol stretch the overall frame out well. Not earthy nor leathery but does have a certain stony side. Chewy without forcing a full workout on your jaw. 90 points
Gouges, Domaine Henri
Burgundy, France
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Clos des Porrets-St. Georges
Pinot Noir
1996
$59.99
13.0%
Slightly older golden color, mild hint of orange around the rims, clears out further out, across the surface losing reflectivity. The nose is buttery at first, crispens up into focused roast with lime and some lemon citrus, airy enough for a floral breeze to develop, the peach and apricot scents lean but long. Light to medium-bodied, very precise with mouthwatering acidity, racy but not overly arch. The oak is evident from the start without dominating, toasty with supporting crème brûlée, butterscotch flavors. The lime, tangerine, lemon citrus really fills out during the mid-palate. Here the minerality comes to the fore as well. The pear, apricot, peach fruit consistent without ever cresting. Let’s you drink it as you come to it, not vice versa. 90 points
Drouhin, Domaine
Dundee Hills, Oregon
Drouhin Family Estate
Arthur
Chardonnay
2005
$26.99
13.8%
Bright yellow-brownish color of appealing clarity, all but complete paling at the rims. The nose is overflowing with lime, tangerine, pink grapefruit and lemon citrus, barely makes room for mineral water, wet stones and sauna fog, what pear, green apple, apricot scents there are remain lean and evanescent. Medium-bodied, very toasty but this is enveloped in the broader drying cloak of acidity, again leans all but exclusively on minerals, stones, streamwater and bodacious lime, tangerine, pink grapefruit citrus. Here there’s more center in the peach, apricot, nectarine fruit, helps fill out the finish too. Shows a touch of heat at the end, you swallow before it starts to truly unravel. 88 points
Colin, Philippe
Burgundy, France
Saint-Aubin
Le Charmois
Chardonnay
2005
$37.99
13.5%
Bright golden hue with green flecks, very shiny, clear transparency, rims empty of color. Broad, resonant toastiness in the nose that sinks in faster than the apple, pear, melon fruit, in spite of wisps of stone smoke, butter, flowers and mint it still remains slightly monochrome. Full-bodied, displays some alcoholic heat and imbalance on the attack yet stays very gregarious, blends lime and lemon with chalk, butterscotch, fresh butter and less crisp toast. The pear, apple, nectarine, pineapple fruit not thick but steady. While the acidity is aggressive it does not lend focus. What it has stays together and at no time does it piss you off. 87 points
Dugat, Domaine Claude
Burgundy, France
Gevrey-Chambertin
Pinot Noir
1999
$75.99
13.0%
Purple core with suggestions of ruby, the rims more basic ruby with a slight nod towards red-yellow, clear enough and more transparent than opaque. Exuberant raspberry, strawberry, red cherry scents with a floral mist dabbed behind both ears, orange peel too with healthy streaks of leather, merde, sinks into an increasing earthiness, even salty at moments. Full-bodied and sappy, sticks to the sides of your mouth, larger elements of shoe leather, animal hide here, fills it out further. The acidity is dull but the tannin has plenty of punch. The fruit is mostly sour but persistent, strawberry, raspberry and red cherry, this pairs up well with the grapefruit pith. Notes of tree bark, woody not oaky. 89 points
Archery Summit
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Arcus Estate
Pinot Noir
1999
$69.99
13.7%
Has a core of ruby-violet, neither dull nor shiny, the rims as much garnet as ruby, fills out decently to the outer edges. Fluffy floral nose, the earthiness stays packed and gains from supplementing tobacco ash, mineral and fried lemon scents, admirable center in the cherry, blackberry fruit, it leaves the grassiness in charge as it evaporates in your nostrils. Medium-bodied, has a certain velvetiness which has it clinging on the curves. Whips together lemongrass, lemon peel, minerals, iron flecks, before this coheres into a whole, the ripe cherry, raspberry fruit blooms fully in the mid-palate. The acidity works on the fringes, allows the tannin to do the heavy lifting. Smoky and leathery at times but ripeness is its primary attribute. 89 points
Wright Cellars, Ken
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Freedom Hill Vineyard
Pinot Noir
1998
$35.99
12.0%
Very light ruby to garnet color, distinct orange tinge to the rims, some film while on the whole transparent. Very openly knit nose of meadow breeze, sharp spices, mineral and chalk dust, white citrus zest, mint leaf, vibrant and clearly contoured red cherry, raspberry scents without tart qualities, not floral but has a similar lift. Medium to full-bodied, puts on weight moving forward from the attack. Initial freshness turns to riper blackberry, black cherry, even plum, fruit flavors. Very little oak, maybe caramel, gives you more leather, driftwood, mushroom accents. The acidity and tannin both demure, like a celebrity bodyguard. Trace of lemon citrus. Strikes a certain balance among the components, even if not a high wire act. 89 points
Roumier, Domaine Georges
Burgundy, France
Morey-Saint-Denis
Clos de la Bussière
Pinot Noir
1998
$69.99
13.0%
Vivid ruby-violet color, stays consistent through to the rims with a slight reddening there, the reflective surface integrates center out. The nose seems hollowed out, the mushroom, earth, iron just enough to lift the weaker cherry, watermelon, raspberry scents. Light-bodied, flighty and coquettish, more apt to tease than deliver. The acidity smothers as much as it freshens the flavors, however, it does remove much raisinated character from the cherry, blackberry fruit. Grass, stone and lemon citrus remain in the background. For its lack of depth and weight, lasts long and stays on point. Some general smokiness but not oakiness. Hard to pin why you like it as much as you do. But you do. 89 points
Argyle
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Spirithouse
Pinot Noir
1999
$50.00
13.5%
Light violet hue, to the point it’s truly much more red-garnet, given this the faint rims display a hint of yellow or orange. Round nose without feeling big, rife with caramel, cinnamon, candied orange peel, clove, cut grass as well, clove and a healthy portion of thick blackberry, black cherry and curious watermelon scents, grassiness builds through the dissolve. Medium-bodied, sets a slow but fluid pace right off the bat. The fleshy blackberry, raspberry, cherry fruit is sweetly sugared and close to dried fruit in feel, milk chocolate, cinnamon, ginger and toffee accents right at home. The acidity is relaxed yet the orange citrus still able to catch you attention. Just about zip for tannins. That said, active enough finish to disguise any flaws or skips in harmony. 88 points
Rouget, Domaine Emmanuel
Burgundy, France
Vosne-Romanée
Pinot Noir
1998
$79.99
13.0%
Very light and clear, of an orange-garnet color, transparent with watery rims, attractive surface reflectivity. While not heavy, forceful nose of mineral dust, stones, dried field grasses, tobacco ash, sweet but tight red cherry to strawberry scents, presents more breeding than pleasurable company. Medium-bodied, in the mouth too it strives for classiness, even if nouveau riche and overly conscious of its every move. The tannin and acidity channel and funnel things with effort yet no visible sweat. Sour, if long, red cherry, strawberry fruit dips and weaves. Quite minerally with parched earth and dried matted grass supplement. Past the mid-palate there’s an uptick in mushroom and dried merde too. With time you can discern tea, tobacco and orange peel as well. So badly wants to win your affections, it does. 90 points
Beaux Frères
Yamhill County, Oregon
The Beaux Frères Vineyard
Pinot Noir
1999
$63.99
14.2%
Violet-bases core with ruby, transparent throughout, the more garnet to orange rims lose some hue intensity. Very diffuse and openly knit nose, almost loses its grip on itself, gossamer strawberry, watermelon, raspberry fruit scents, sweet lemon peel, stone and earth, nothing musky nor deep, dissolves with rapidity. Medium-bodied, dulcet with anise, mint, orange to lemon citrus setting the stage early. With the onset of white stone and minerals the ripeness pulls back and the wine achieves flow, no extravagant weight nor sluggishness in the cherry, blackberry fruit. Some tannin but not integrated into the whole, meager amount of perceptible acidity. Delivers a flutter of flower petals towards the end. Becomes candied once more on the finish. 88 points
Potel, Nicolas
Burgundy, France
Vosne-Romanée
Malconsorts
Pinot Noir
1999
$66.99
13.5%
Light violet to garnet in color, brighter red around the rims with ochre tinge and some yellow too. Black licorice, mint, flowers, herbs present in the nose to the exclusion of most everything else, covers over any deeper tertiary elements, the cherry, raspberry fruit only able to surface briefly. Light to medium-bodied, rolls around in such a way that it is neither full nor attenuated. Savory sourness in the cranberry, raspberry fruit, activates your palate and opens into orange, lemon citrus and grass, as a result remains high in the register. Credible level of minerality too. The acidity is sneaky, seems to be the conductor at first but soon enough it is the tannin in charge. Offers a lot of a lot, hits all the food groups without leaving you feel bloated. 90 points
Green Cellars, Patricia
Yamhill County, Oregon
Shea Vineyard
Pinot Noir
2000
$45.99
13.0%
A light film deepens the garnet to red/orange brick hued core, stays consistent to the outer rims, a touch more yellowish there. Gas, bagged grass, merde and almost bretty in the nose, hint of anise seed and flowers, the cherry, raspberry scents very quiet. Light to medium-bodied, spreads itself as widely as possible, suffers for it in depth on the attack yet maybe lasts longer as a result. Sharp herbaceousness and wet sauna stones frame the whole, that said, the sweetness in the raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit stays front-loaded. The acidity level is very good, equally so for the tannins. Merde, dried straw, mushroom only really click past the mid-palate. Turns hot on the finish just when you want it to sink in more. 89 points
Leclerc, Domaine René
Burgundy, France
Gevrey-Chambertin
Lavaux St-Jacques
Pinot Noir
1999
$64.99
13.5%
Light and very clear orange-garnet color, becomes more orange to red brick around the rims, easily transparent at an angle. Smoky with burnt caramel notes, muted cherry, raspberry scents, some tar and minerals yet, curiously, the nose is empty and vacates quickly. Medium-bodied, starts off with keen white grapefruit and grass before packed earth and unyielding stones ensue. The acidity and tannin both active, alert and looking for a fight. No real evidence of oak here in the mouth, moderate sweetness through to the mid-palate in the cherry, strawberry fruit. Keeps seeming as if it is about to unwind but does not. Still much more offered here than in the nose. Keep waiting? 88 points
Angerville, Domaine Marquis d’
Burgundy, France
Volnay
Taillepieds
Pinot Noir
1999
$48.99
13.5%
Mostly violet core, strong brick red influence, still youthful ruby rims with no diminishment of hue. Bold nose, drives into you with stone powder, tar, floral oil, pine, tart cherry and raspberry scents, neither tight nor airy, like a steel mesh in the nostrils, it’s hard but things can pass through it. Medium-bodied, presents a Berlin Wall of acidity and tannin, however, the cherry and raspberry fruit shines through nonetheless. Fashions the leather, tar, tea leaf, and orange and white grapefruit peel into a rugged profile and keeps forcing them on you. Its relentlessness as well as relatively taciturn nature suggests you defer judgment until it is willing to enter into a more constructive dialogue. 89 points
Vasse Felix
Western Australia, Australia
Margaret River
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002
$31.99
13.5%
Fully opaque purple core with a warm glow to it, the rims a vibrant crimson shade of above average depth. Billowing nose of caramel, whipped cream, butterscotch and then bell pepper and saltlick, kind of going all over, in between all this the currant, cherry fruit scents get lost in the shuffle. Medium-bodied, does have the kind of acidity which greases the skids while the tannin doesn’t really gum up the works with undue dryness. That said, some wood tannin mixed in with the butterscotch, caramel flavors. The black currant, plum, cherry fruit able to stand up better to the oak here, dense without being overly sweet. The bell pepper aspect does not subside, this plays up the metallic earth, cedar and basic cut grass elements. Swells in the mid-palate which makes the finish appear to empty out more swiftly. It’s OK and easy to drink if you’re in a generously uncritical mood. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec, 5% Merlot. 86 points
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Estate
Grenache
1999
$21.99
14.7%
While the surface is quite shiny, the purple core, if unblemished, is dull and the violet reaches through to the ruby rims to darken them and stifle brightness. Even with an underlying foundation of mountain grasses, pine and eucalyptus, it is the raspberry, red cherry fruit which leads the nose, the sweetness covering over the earthiness, no obvious oak present but there’s some destabilizing alcoholic fumes. Medium-bodied, while the acidity is so-so, the tannins alive and kicking and add a general dryness to the palate. The candied sweetness in the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit doesn’t last much past the attack, becomes sourer with the advent of grassiness, lemon zest and pine sap. More stone accents here but still not earthy. Stifled florality as if it was there once. Probably losing tightness in the weave, that said, it’s consistent and doesn’t over-promise at any point. 78% Grenache, 17% Zinfandel, 5% Petite Sirah. 89 points
Fleur de Boüard, La
Bordeaux, France
Lalande de Pomerol
Blend
1999
$21.99
13.5%
Dark purple crosses with ease into opacity in the core, the ruby rims heavy set enough, only moderate reddening. Big, plump plum, currant, blackberry fruit scents with wet cedar, orange peel, dark chocolate, flowers, very forward and flashy, ends with burst of bell pepper. Full-bodied, round and fleshy with more juicy currant, plum fruit. The tannins are slightly woody and drying. Along these lines the orange peel notes are drier as are the flowers, cedar and tobacco smoke. More minerally yet not truly earthy. Takes on an angular feel past the mid-palate and this shortens the finish some. But the fruit lasts all the way so it stays flavorful. Doesn’t convince you more development is on the way. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Switchback Ridge
Napa Valley, California
Peterson Family Vineyard
Petite Sirah
1999
$53.99
14.5%
Inky black core, when you get the purple it’s only along the super-thin rims, crowding out the ruby-magenta, sleek surface too. The nose has not changed dramatically from its youth, more so settled into itself and not as showy, remains mostly plum, cassis, blackberry fruit with supporting caramel, hot butterscotch and coconut custard, separates and lifts with notes of pine, wildflowers and orange peel, no heat discernible. Full-bodied and considerably thick, pours into your mouth as much as you sip it. Sugary sweet blackberry, plum, cherry fruit, however, it is strangely front-loaded and more or less gone by the finish fruit-wise, just sugary echoes. The caramel, vanilla ice cream oak flavors subdued by now, fits overall sweet profile. Again, offers indistinct citric and floral notes. No sign of tertiary development, depends on weight and momentum to impress. Would impress the impressionable. 88 points
Graillot, Domaine Alain
Rhône, France
Crozes Hermitage
La Guiraude
Syrah
1999
$26.99
13.0%
The dark purple core does not show any sediment or grit but there’s a haziness like after you look right into the sun and can’t focus right, the rims mainly red ruby but deepened by encroaching violet too. The nose pretty much evenly split between juicy red cherry, cranberry fruit and green olives, beef jerky, salt and leather, the more you sniff the flowers favor the fruit while the herbal qualities favor the latter group, either way clean with nice lift. Medium-bodied, certainly has slimmed down but for the best. More transparency found in the stone, brown earth, olive pit, dried game and grass, the raucous acidity wants to dance with everything separately. The cherry, raspberry fruit flits about but doesn’t sneak. With the end in sight, whips out orange/lemon citrus and dried flowers. Lots of retronasal activity and your lips be smacking too. Could go further but why? 91 points
Ridge
Sonoma Valley, California
Pagani Ranch
Zinfandel
1997
$28.49
14.6%
While it retains most of its youthful clarity there’s a slight fuzziness to the purple core, the rims have as much ruby as brick red, not a puppy but not past middle age either. There’s a nice leathery, smoky edge to the nose, earthy enough too to restrict the sugar in the plum/prune, golden raisin, orange peel scents, mixes in sweet herbs, green apple, dark chocolate with pleasing relief from a floral lift. Full-bodied, shrugs off weight as it moves into more fighting trim. The plum, cherry, boysenberry fruit flirts with dried fruit nature, however, has the acidity to retain a pleasant sour bite and freshness. Friendly border treaty between the menthol, eucalyptus and tart orange/lemon citrus. Shows a stripe of molasses but not as overripe as expected. After a glass or so you realize the tannin is still puttering about. 88% Zinfandel, 7% Mataro, 3% Petite Sirah, 2% Alicante Bouschet. 89 points
Allegrini
Veneto, Italy
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Superiore
Blend
1997
$79.99
15.0%
Sort of grimy, helps develop opacity in the dull purple core, the rims are aging into red and brown shades, full in spite of older coloration. Ohmigod, the nose is positively slathered in molasses, caramel, honey, toffee, if it isn’t soft and sweet it isn’t there, wisps of cinnamon, orange marmalade and dark chocolate too, the plum, cassis, blackberry scents sugary but drying out and losing juiciness. Full-bodied, all dried fruit of prune, raisin, dates in addition to orange reduction, ginger, cinnamon and cedar. No tannin, acidity gurgles from time to time. The chocolate powder dusts throughout. Floral finish and kinda lemony too. Keeps coming at you, seriously slutty wine. If you read Maxim, it’s for you. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella. 88 points
Darviot-Perrin, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Clos de la Velle
Chardonnay
2000
$27.99
13.0%
The coloration isn’t dark per se but the gold has taken on an obvious orange tinge, a translucent layering helps extend the hue towards the rims. Lemon sponge cake, nuts, rose petals, mint leaf and honey glazed dough make for a sweetly approachable nose, that said, the stoniness interferes with the apricot, nectarine, apple fruit, thus neither settles in and it all flutters away after a few ticks. Full-bodied, sweeter and more reduced in the mouth, like water and oil, the parts feel like they are separating in your mouth. Nutty and doughy here too but notes of mineral water, pebbles show feistiness. Tart orange marmalade edge helps too. The acidity is average yet capable of smoothing out some rough patches. Near the end the separation brings clarity to cinnamon, more lemon to lime citrus and pressed flowers. Serviceable, each sip not the same, helps. 88 points
Péby Faugères, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1999
$59.99
14.0%
The darkness of the purple core does not obscure its cleanliness, fades steadily into thick ruby rims, deepened yet by a violet hue. There’s a steady stream of flowers, pencil lead, hard stone and packed earth in the nose, nothing annoying about the degree of caramel or coffee bean oak notes, the red currant, cherry scents broad but not overwhelming, Full-bodied, enters the mouth with authority, the tannins seem to plaster it onto your mouth roof and let it drip onto the tongue from there. Here more caramel and toffee to swirl into the cherry, raspberry fruit without it becoming confectionary. Tea leaf, sweet tobacco, graphite, orange peel and a healthy dash of grass and even bell pepper pleasingly surprise. While a very good drop today holds credible promise for development over next 4-6 years or so. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 90 points
Failla-Jordan
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$48.00
13.6%
Soft cloudiness in the ruby-violet core, takes across the divide into opacity land, the rims still based in ruby but darkening into more red garnet too. Candied cherries and raspberries lead in the nose, smoky with tobacco ash and wet wood smoke as well as white grapefruit and merde accents, when the floral dimension opens it brings with it some sweet oak notes too. Full-bodied with an openly knit construction which helps it feel more fluffy than dense. The dulcet raspberry, cherry, even strawberry fruit leads the pack here too, however, as the acidity gains traction the white grapefruit to lemon citrus and metallic minerality shines. More grassy too without ever approaching herbaceousness. Close to this are green olives and that kindling smoke thing., growing accents of ash and dried tobacco leaf through finish. Not superlative in any one area but adds up to a wine that’s just fun to drink. 90 points
Remizières, Domaine des
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Cuvée Emílié
Syrah
1999
$55.99
13.0%
Plainly put purple core with a hint of ruby, throwing a lot of sediment so be careful how you pour, the rims pure ruby and betray little, if any, aging. The nose comprised mostly of freshly pressed raspberry, blackberry juice, however, there’s and odd rubbery note before slides into molasses, maple syrup and pressed flowers, few signs of development thus keeps the fruit front and center. Medium-bodied, not as plush as the nose might suggest, tannin does a credible job of craving the red cherry, raspberry fruit down to size. This in turn allows the components of grass, stone, mixed citrus and olive pit to surface better. No real gaminess, trade off might be the oaky sweetness lower here too. More dried wildflowers as it nears the end. Good wine, no fatal flaws, nothing brilliant to recommend it either. 88 points
Kruger-Rumpf, Weingut
Nahe, Germany
Münsterer
Pittersberg
Spätlese
Riesling
1994
$36.99
Mostly transparent yellow straw color, faint glow to it, average shine across the surface. Gentle nose of mint oil, rubber, licorice, poached apricot, peach, pear fruit, very openly knit in spite of the richness of the assorted scents. Full-bodied, deep and soft, sinks fully into your mouth pores, excellent sweetness without “sugariness” per se, the acidity remarkably active and toys with the honey, orange glaze, floral dew and mint elements so that they come in and out more than remain constant. Succulent peach, apricot, pear and nectarine fruit which bulls through more consistently to the finish. Sticks the landing smoothly too. 90 points
Peay Vineyards
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Marsanne/Roussanne
Blend
2005
$36.99
13.8%
Has a somewhat unfiltered kind of gauziness to the yellow day-glo color, enough depth to fill out the rims too. Fine richness in the nose with a non-oaky creaminess, scents of tangerine, mint, light honey, not a lot of stoniness yet has freshness, there’s softness in the peach, apricot, pear scents, semi-evanescent as a result. Medium-bodied, even creamier and softer here in the mouth. Features tangerine, orange sherbet, mint and pressed flowers, the acidity starts off well but cannot provide shape and direction to the apricot, pear, yellow apple, melon fruit. Easygoing and ripe without pushing it too far, reclines gently into your tongue. 60% Marsanne, 40% Roussanne. 88 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Mendocino County, California
Alder Springs Vineyard
The Emerald Pool
Syrah
2004
$75.00
16.2%
Onyx black core, incredibly glowing red-magenta to ruby colored rims, attractively reflective surface. The nose is somewhat reticent at first, slowly opens into coffee bean, bacon fat, flowers, grill smoke, nothing unduly showy about the ripeness in the cherry, raspberry scents. Medium-bodied, quickly furnishes velvety currant, plum, blackberry fruit alongside coffee ice cream, dark chocolate and molasses flavors. Moves on to orange to lemon citrus as well as big, growing florality. The tannins suave and easily knit into the whole, any unyielding feel to it due to its primary density. Remains very sweet through the finish. A quality backrub but not a workout. 88 points
Tremblay (Domaine des Iles), Gérard
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaudésir
Chardonnay
2000
$24.99
13.0%
Advanced golden hue with distinct amber tint, neither especially clear nor filmy, the depth of the aged color the determining factor towards dullness. The nose too reveals advancement, all baking dough, honey, orange marmalade, sweet baking spices which makes it heavy set, displays some mint and stone accents but there’s no real smokiness to aid lift, guileless peach, apricot, pear fruit scents. Full-bodied, big and round, its mid-section has gone to pot, nothing the still above average acidity can whip into shape. The stone, mineral water aspects have to hurry to show during the attack for the honey, dough, molasses, cinnamon flavors flood the tongue swiftly thereafter. The pear, melon, apricot fruit not quite reduced but without much snap. Actually quite long, no problem in the general flavor department, just miss the focus and verve of its youth. 87 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montmain
Chardonnay
2000
$27.99
12.5%
There’s a flatness through the orange-gold color which lends itself to translucency, holds full through the rims making for a solid, blockish appearance in the glass. While not exactly dominant, there’s no avoiding the honey and baked dough notes in the nose, followed on by lemon drop, wet slate and pressed flowers, ripe yet aged feel in the peach, apple, pear fruit as if picked and then left in a cold, dark basement for months. Full-bodied, has let the belly go over recent years, preferred to go buy a new belt. As opposed to the nose, here the acidity can marshal the seashells and chalk some. Dryness brings sour kick to the lemon peel, nice. By the mid-palate when you exhale the honey and pie dough back in effect. Semi-poached feel in the apricot, peach, yellow apple fruit slows it down way before the finish. Dried flowers linger through finish. Not as disappointing as many of its brethren but still, where’s the snap, crackle and pop? 88 points
Lesec Sélections, Patrick
Rhône, France
Cornas
Sarah
Syrah
1999
$40.99
12.5%
Flat black purple core, no real sign of sediment nor filminess, dull ruby with only a suggestion of bricking. Flatulence, bagged cut grass, olive pits, black earth comprise most of the nose, lesser amounts of molasses crisp, orange glazed meat, dried flowers, the currant, cherry, plum scents smoked into dryness. Medium-bodied, hard to tell but it feels like it has lost a lot of weight since its youth. has the olive, game, merde, orange peel elements but not the density in the currant, cherry fruit to ground it. The acidity and tannins credible but do not contribute to any “sauvage” character. With more sips the oak toast and dill notes come out. Lack of concentration probably accentuates sourness. More modern in style, not attacking you for the sheer fun of it as you would want. 87 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Griffin’s Lair
Syrah
2003
$49.99
15.5%
Fully opaque purple core, black enough to be dulled some, equally thick crimson rims with all the ruby bleached out. The nose has a distinct mesquite smoke, honey glaze and orange reduction character, traces of potpourri and bacon fat, the plum and cherry scents balanced by a few rubbery notes. Full-bodied, hard to imagine it more thickly layered, close to no tannic nor acidic punch, makes it move even less. Vanilla fudge, molasses, toffee, butterscotch abound, yet even the oak has difficulty lifting and achieving separation. Minty and more floral here, the orange to lemon citrus stand out more as well. The dry plum, cherry, blackberry fruit is flavorful, if not especially juicy. Keeps its weight through the finish as expected, mouth quite parched by the end. Good enough for throwing back in shot glasses, too heavy to chug. 87 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
The Other
Petite Sirah
2003
$50.00
15.1%
Pure onyx black core, any purple pushed way out to the thin rims where ruby brightens the hue. Very flowery, perfumed nose, doses of white pepper too, waft of vanilla ice cream and toast, minimal earthiness or other balancing elements to the currant, plum, black cherry fruit, rich and round and friendly with a pleasingly airy dissolve. Medium to full-bodied, spicy and peppery and decently tannic, releases into a big floral musk as well as lemon/orange peel. More rocky and stony than leathery, depends a great deal on the purity and fast paced flow of the plum, black currant, cherry fruit. The floral dimension continues to dominate and create lift. Approachably consistent and smooth. 89 points
Colle dei Venti
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Tùfo blu
Nebbiolo
1999
$37.99
14.0%
Black core, really no purple left if it was ever there, the broad rims fashioned of burnt red, orange and yellow the further out, not quite dull but appears aged. So much black licorice to menthol in the nose you think it was artificially added, once you adjust to the Vicks there’s wildflowers and cinnamon and a moderate burst of red cherry, raspberry fruit. Full-bodied with a supple texture, not round, the tannin elongates it for the better. The licorice thing still going on, more rose-like flowers as well as mixed citrus. Both candied and roasted character to the cherry, blackberry fruit, sweet and sticky as well as smoky. Dash of boot leather and merde, yet achieves what it can be the mid-palate and carries on the same from there. That said, ends with echoes of honey and molasses. You have to like them sweet here. 85 points
Bologna, Vitivinicola Braida di Giacomo
Piedmont, Italy
Barbera d’Asti
Bricco dell’Uccellone
Barbera
1996
$35.99
14.0%
Flat black colored core, in spite of darkness retains full clarity, evident through the more burnt crimson rims, some attenuation at the outermost reaches. The nose a tangle of matted straw and wildflowers, more stone than earth, while the plum, cherry, currant fruit forms a solid bottom, overall the nose stays airy with lift. Full-bodied, if a little hollow in the middle, immediately leaves the impression of an older wine which has developed interesting tertiary elements while at the same time losing heft. More acidity than tannin left at this juncture, the tannin there seems to be wood tannin. Orange citrus and flowers with only bursts of leather or earth, the more it sits in the mouth the more the oak toast and dill notes accrete. The cherry, raspberry fruit more “red” in nature here, lighter and dissolves rapidly through the finish. Not a bad wine per se, and has indubitably hung on credibly, but still a few years past its heartiest prime. 86 points
Roty, Domaine Joseph
Burgundy, France
Marsannay
Les Ouzeloy
Pinot Noir
2001
$36.99
13.0%
Reddish-brown tint lightens the basic purple core, rims take on a dusky, semi-washed out red cast, however, the liquid is clear with no signs of sediment. At first there’s some sulfur-like notes in the nose but this blows off and muddy earth, leather accents grow in stature, the plum, cherry scents round and last well if on the dry side, more straw and hay than citrus or flowers. Medium-bodied with enough heft to roll forward with force, fine tannic punch, takes some time to open and lengthen on the finish. Bits of licorice, flower petals pretty up the earthiness. As in the nose there’s mud, earth and merde, however, in proportion to the whole. The cherry, blackberry fruit more dense than lively, certainly persists to the very end. Pushes outwards against the cheeks well. In a good place and should stay there for at least 2-3 years. 89 points
Seavey
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$64.00
14.1%
No filminess to speak of, the core more black than violet, in the wide rims the ruby certainly has switched gears into brick red, that said, still full and well-hued. The nose does not seem oaky at all, however, there’s no dearth of meat, grill smoke, cedar and molasses which may be aged expression of wood, floral with more than adequate currant, cherry, plum fruit, the big smokiness lifts the whole through the dissolve. Full-bodied, not possessed of the weight and density of better vintages yet no worse off for harmony and even-keeled presentation. Slight drying out of the cherry, currant fruit, this arguably allows the orange citrus, dried flowers and minerally earth to reach higher. Touch woodier here, still possessed of outsized smokiness and cedar. Leather and grassiness rises nearing finish. No shortness at the end. Like relaxing on the front porch in the shade. 90 points
Reuscher-Haart, Weingut
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen
Spätlese AP #7
Riesling
1989
$24.99
7.5%
Very yellow color, as in luminescent, no filminess but there is no true shine and no lack of translucent deadening below the surface. There’s that rubber tire, hot street tar aspect to the nose yet not to the occlusion of bread dough, lemon to tangerine citrus, pineapple, guava and apricot fruit, not to mention poor dirt and earth caked stones. Full-bodied and even with the milky creaminess and custard like mouth feel on the attack, you know right off that this wine is not open for business. Not that acidic, when you think it might bite, it instead turns its cheek. Plenty tropical in the nectarine, guava, mango, pineapple fruit department as well as the pink grapefruit, mandarin orange citrus. More grassy than stony and welcome given that creamy texture. It just isn’t saying much, however, reading between the lines there may not be that much of gravity to say. 88 points
Best’s
Victoria, Australia
Great Western
Riesling
2002
$19.99
13.0%
The nose caught between a vanilla creaminess and fresher mineral water feel, rubber notes favor the former and lemon peel the latter, in the end the openly knit apricot, pear fruit settles the score for minerality and stoniness. Medium-bodied, the acidity doesn’t have laser-like brightness but steadily plugs away and quietly prods things along. Again, displays this leesy creaminess at first before a keener edged grassiness and emphasis on orange and lemon citrus sets things aright. Odd moment of toasted coconut. Noticeable element of pliable rubber, not really near diesel sharpness. Steady as she goes apricot, peach, melon fruit, no great splash nor short. Stays firm and broad through the finish, could deal with heavier food. (Screwcap) 88 points
Whitehall Lane
Napa Valley, California
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$65.00
14.2%
The black purple core infiltrated by crimson red, around the rims the ruby giving way to brick red but not that aged in appearance, especially given the surface shine. Creamy French vanilla ice cream, toasted coconut and caramel blossom through the nose, abates some with air time, minty too, once you factor in the satiny smooth plum, cassis, cherry scents you realize it’s expended all the energy it had, nothing left to produce cedar, leather or other accents. Full-bodied and super-plush, fresh butter, butterscotch, caramel, vanilla bean, coffee, you name it. The tannins have grit, if not direction or fluidity, and do manage to at least puncture the balloon of cherry, plum, black currant fruit juice. Hint of mixed white citrus. As in the nose, no sign of meaningful development, age betrayed solely by the sediment silt. One must hope in the chrysalis still it rests for this day an average wine it be. 87 points
Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun), Domaine des
Beaujolais, France
l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes
Gamay Noir
2002
$10.99
11.0%
A lot of the purple has faded in the core in favor of brick red and dried blood hues, coloration consistent to the rims where it washes out some. Rubbery and merde-like notes in the nose suggest a somewhat reductive state, all the animals in the barn for this hoedown, palpable white grapefruit zest, if you can concentrate enough there’s a sweet candied character to the red cherry, raspberry scents, all together stays in your nostrils for some time. Medium-bodied, fresher in the mouth with more prominent cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit during the attack. This slowly segues to leather, meadow grasses, mixed white citrus, field stones and a good dose of farm funk. A smokier, more roasted quality permeates the fruit as it finishes, At the same time, the stoniness elevates as well. Tangy, if not at times ornery, wine that is not near its end, naturally fibrous closure or not. (Synthetic Cork: Nomacorc) 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2008
Undhof (Erich Salomon), Weingut
Kremstal, Austria
Library Reserve
Riesling
1991
$29.99
12.0%
Orange-golden color, not quite amber just obviously aged, translucent but in no way filmy. Doughy, bready nose with rubber accents, mint and anise, the lemon to pink grapefruit adds needed bite to the base of peach, pear, apple fruit. Full-bodied, extremely broad shoulders, pile drives into you and doesn’t quite care what impression it makes at first. Doughy, honeyed, lemony, kind of hot at first, mixes in white and pink grapefruit. Pine, thyme, mint and white pepper appear as well, gets grassier as progresses. The acidity is a plugger, “I think I can,” “I think I can.” Highly credible activity through the end, may not have it all in spades but breaks a sweat for you with what it’s got. 87 points
Revello, Azienda Agricola Fratelli
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Nebbiolo
2003
$36.99
14.5%
Minimal purple in the core, much more crimson to garnet, washed out orange to red brick hued rims, overall pure and clean surface. Liqueur scented nose of candied cherry, strawberry fruit alongside licorice, mint oil, orange marmalade, dollop of leather and cowhide, more butterscotch, caramel, toffee and fresh butter, apparently modern in style and plays in the higher register. Medium-bodied, both gritty and creamy at once with a certain showy roughness to the tannin. Then thickly layered blackberry, raspberry, cherry fruit with noticeable sweetness. Has leather, tar and grass but nothing that really persists. Finishes with broadening vanilla cream, butterscotch and caramel oak flavors. Plays it by the numbers. 86 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2002
$32.99
13.0%
Deepening old gold color, some glow but semi-worn in an attractive way, while concentrated in the core, the rims are semi-dilute. Cinnamon, baked pie crust, honey, lemon drop make for a relaxed, placid nose which reclines more than moves, poached peach, apricot, pear fruit without turning too cloying, fairly fat and sinks in decently. Medium-bodied, clings to the tongue, there’s evidence of acidic filminess, really flattens out across the tongue. Serves up fresh butter, pie crust, honey, molasses, lemon reduction as well as sluggish peach, pear, apricot, nectarine fruit. Lacks verve and zing but does clamp down eventually. Floral at turns. Not bad wine, just not what it should be. 86 points
Jasmin, Domaine Patrick
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$39.99
12.5%
Straightforward violet core enlivened by a reddish influence, this further out favors scarlet over ruby along the rims, neither remarkably clear nor filmy. The nose made from a tightly woven fabric, neither too dense nor ungiving yet there’s one chorus of floral dew, stones, hay, orange peel, vanilla bean and cherry, red currant fruit, more graceful in its lift than penetrating. Medium-bodied, it’s soft touch doesn’t mean it peters out, more so it requires quiet concentration on it. Lemon to orange citrus and a big bushel of flowers lead the way and there’s a sparkle to the minerality as well. The acidity appears more apt to engage but nod devoid of tannin. The cherry, raspberry fruit ripe without sweetness, perhaps impaired by a suggestion of tomato skin. Minute traces of game or iodine. Leaves your mouth full of perfume as it ends. 89 points
Garretson Wine Company
Regional Blend, California
Central Coast
The Reliquary
Blend
2001
$75.00
15.2%
Completely opaque black purple core, the rims are fat and as much crimson red as ruby, not betraying much aging. Rich, fluffy nose of plum, cherry, boysenberry fruit, softened further by vanilla cream and caramel tones, a touch of mint and floral water, not especially advanced or possessed of tertiary scents. In the mouth the caramel, toffee, butterscotch and vanilla ice cream are first to the mic, followed on by orange spice, mint and clove. No real alcoholic burn, conversely no tannin nor acidity either. So, it basically gets by on weight and momentum. Hard to reach the bottom of the liqueur-tinged raspberry, cherry, strawberry fruit. Eternally young wine. 67% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 8% Mourvèdre, 5% Viognier. 60% Paso Robles, 40% Santa Ynez Valley. 88 points
Spinetta, Azienda Agricola La
Piedmont, Italy
Monferrato Rosso
Pin
Blend
1998
$41.99
14.0%
The core is much more black than purple, this becomes more evident at the rims where there’s dusty crimson to brick red coloration with nary a hint of any brighter hue, clear enough given the flatness overall. The nose built on tar, muddy earth, camphor, old milk chocolate bars, the potpourri bowl at grandma’s house and jammy blackberry, cherry scents, can’t decide if it’s slow to move or immobile, zero lift or lighter perfume. Full-bodied at first with a precipitous drop off past the mid-palate. The tannins are like chunky sawdust cast about your mouth, clumping up here and there. The weight of the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit impresses more than the juiciness, more hard candy in nature. Something in here seems oaky but it comes across more as woody. The floral side a touch greater with the tar, earth and merde falling back commensurately. Lemon peel and grass echo through the finish. Difficult to judge whether this was caught at a bad time, is past its peak or just one of those bottles. Unexpectedly mediocre. 50% Nebbiolo, 30% Barbera, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 85 points
Porters
Martinborough, New Zealand
Pinot Noir
2002
$56.99
13.5%
Ruby-garnet in hue with a mild cloudiness which prevents transparency, coloration stays consistent through to outermost rims which more of an orange tint shows. Cola bean, mint, orange to white grapefruit give the nose a certain raciness while there’s also a perky tartness to the raspberry, red cherry fruit scents, thick perfume rises in the nostrils. Medium-bodied with good downwards pressure that keeps it consistent from start to finish without seeming intent on doing so. The tannins still packing a mean punch and able to surface a leathery, almost gamey quality. This plays well off of the cola, mixed citrus and grasses. Lightly candied nature to the strawberry, raspberry, cherry fruit helps it keep balance too. Almost creates a light fizziness behind it at the end. 90 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Grenache
2003
$35.00
15.5%
Borderline grimy black purple core, muddied by red earthen mud, the brick red rims remain deeply hued if devoid of lively shine. Sweet baking spices and orange marmalade and a vanilla/caramel swirl make the nose user friendly, no alcoholic heat, maybe some fast rising menthol rub, the raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit has the consistency of jam in your nostrils if not the sugariness. In the mouth it is round, if somewhat hollow, just when you expect the weight to press down on your tongue it evaporates. Tannin and acidity weak enough to allow the vanilla, caramel, butterscotch creaminess to outweigh any citrus or herbal kick. The cherry, raspberry fruit has a liqueur-like consistency here which does bring out a little alcoholic heat and roughness. Short finish, doesn’t drop off the map but close. Serviceable. 87 points
Failla
Napa Valley, California
Phoenix Ranch
Syrah
2003
$38.00
14.5%
Impenetrable black-purple core, the violet extends deep into the rims, darkening the otherwise red-ruby hue, only a suggestion of aging. While there’s hot caramel and coffee bean in the nose, the oak overcome in large part by the crisp white grapefruit zest, damp minerally earth and grass, light gaminess tugs some sourness out of the cherry, raspberry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, the tannins not so noticeable but the acidity is one wicked beast and pretty much conditions all the flavors one might sense. Naturally, this favors the white grapefruit and lemon citrus which are dominate throughout. The same can be said for leather, tar, dried beef, salt and mountain scrub accents. The oak here still evokes coffee flavors but more so ends up expressing a generalized smokiness. Despite the puckering sour bite, there’s yet full depth and length in the raspberry, red currant, cherry fruit and little sign of abating. Arguably, one could wait longer still but why? 92 points
Limelight
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Syrah
1998
$24.99
14.0%
Complete clarity throughout, the core as mixed red-black as purple, the rims more bright crimson, remains well-hued. The nose is first dominated by vanilla/caramel swirl, eucalyptus and grill smoke, slightly earthier than gamey, despite the oak presence and ripeness of the cherry, currant fruit this is not a simple dullard of a nose, more marked by curious absence of tertiary scents only hinted at. Full-bodied, more developed here in the mouth, cedar, eucalyptus, orange peel matched by dried beef, leather and mineral chunk elements. The tannins are adequate, the tip of the cap goes to the acidity which kicks strongly start to finish. Ginger spice, pink grapefruit, lemon citrus, cedar, not an untamed savage yet not overly mannered either. The blackberry, red currant, cherry fruit decides on a level and steadily maintains it to the end. Better than many of its more expensive brethren. 90 points
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
1998
$50.00
14.3%
Blackish purple core, on the whole clear yet there is a visible very fine sediment throughout, the rims mainly crimson red with an echo of ruby alongside orange stripes. Slightly dusty nose, furnishes dried beef, dried flowers, dried orange peels, cocoa powder, even the plum, cherry, black currant scents reticent, not unpleasing just could take part more in the conversation. Medium-bodied, the acidity gives the red currant, plum, blackberry fruit a twist as well as sour bite. Slight vanilla cream, again occluded by cocoa powder. Notes of bell pepper, mountain grasses contribute to its erect bearing. Nuances of mint and eucalyptus pretty it up some, flowers the same albeit to a lesser extent. The sweetness in the fruit grows with more air time. Cedar, spice infused kick helps it end with an exclamation point. 90 points
Campion
Monterey County, California
Santa Lucia Highlands
Pinot Noir
2001
$25.99
14.0%
Consistent garnet to ruby color, easy clarity with an orange tinge around the rims. The nose possesses damp earth, cola, orange peel, flower petals and coffee bean, lowgrade raspberry, red cherry scents cruise steadily throughout. Full-bodied, extremely well-structured with both rugged tannin and acidity but no sternness. Leans decisively towards the earthy side of things, some grassy notes but serves up stones, orange peel, rose petals too with higher levels of cola and poor earth. Minimal oak toast, what is there actually adds some spring to its step. While not incredibly complex, there’s an admirable purity to it. Never feels sluggish but takes its time progressing through the palate. Some spiciness and even more cola through the finish. Entering its best phase. Grapes sourced from Sarmento Vineyard. 90 points
Ogier, Domaine Michel
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$59.99
12.5%
Cloudiness deepens the purple core close to blackness, flat crimson to brick red rims without noticeable loss of hue. White grapefruit and field flowers spring forth first in the nose, then strips of salted dried beef, barnyard floor, merde, saline, hay, black smoke, aggressive without being offensive, nevertheless the tart currant, blackberry fruit barely cushions the blow. Starts out almost light-bodied but puts on a good deal of weight as it opens. Razor sharp acidity focuses the minerality, densely packed earthiness, olive pits and white grapefruit zest. Still displays a touch of toastiness as well. Funky game notes more prevalent than beef blood. Elevated grassiness plays towards leaner profile. Pleasing bottom in the currant, cherry, blackberry flavors, the fruit knit fully into overall fabric. Lots of smoky perfume left in the mouth at the finish. Drinking exquisitely with moderate room for improvement. 92 points
Markham
Napa Valley, California
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$65.00
14.5%
Noticeably clear, no blemishes nor hint of sediment, strong reddening around the rims, crimson to orange brick. The nose is stuffed with cedar, salted beef, barnyard funk and leather, the vanilla cream, licorice, caramel accents build with time, slight attenuation in the cherry, blackberry fruit scents, more puffy than a solid presence. Medium-bodied, here the dried out, shrunken feel more apparent, dusty character to the cherry, currant, blackberry flavors, minimal juice and shortened. Hard to blame the tannins here, present yet reduced to grit. Grill smoke, chocolate, vanilla, caramel elevated too, along with some pine, eucalyptus, lemon/orange citrus. Gains some weight with air time. Appears unusually advanced. 87 points
Colombo, Jean-Luc
Rhône, France
Condrieu
Amour de Dieu
Viognier
1999
$29.99
13.5%
Has taken on an amber bronze color, clear but not so shiny, holds admirably through the rims, diminishing to a general yellow hue. The nose built on cinnamon and ginger like baking spices, tangerine citrus, honey glazed bread and flower water, perfect consistency in the apricot, peach, pear scents without any hogging of the spotlight. Full-bodied and on the plump side even, sinks into your lap like it wants a bedtime story. Activated some by that cinnamon, ginger, clove spice as well as the orange to tangerine citrus. Lack of acidity contributes to flatness, allows freedom to the honey, caramel elements, which in turn thickens the apricot, peach, pear, melon fruit and removes freshness. Pours itself through finish as much as flows. Age has diminished florality. On the whole, good but maybe not for the desired reasons. 375 ml bottle. 88 points
Turley
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Ueberroth Vineyard
Zinfandel
2004
$48.00
16.3%
Deep purple core, while completely opaque, no hesitancy in shifting gears to red-ruby along the rims, good warmth and richness. Presents an outdoorsy feel in the nose of wildflowers, grasses, eucalyptus and stone chunks, broadens into orange peel, milk chocolate and cherry, red currant, raspberry scents, great lift with a minimum of oak and no evident alcoholic fumes. Full-bodied, juicy and lively, positively bounces around your mouth. Has some tannin but, more importantly, possesses sufficient acidity to highlight the orange to lemon citrus, light meadow grassiness and then focus the cherry, cranberry, black raspberry fruit. Moderate chocolate and vanilla accents but accents they are, overshadowed by that same stony earth and eucalyptus breeze thing. Muscularly compact finish, flexes before the final release. 92 points
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Estate
Syrah
1998
$27.50
13.9%
Reddish tinged purple core, the ruby rims changed to brick red with the start of some orange hues, clear at first, needs a decant to keep the chunks at the bottom of the bottle. There’s some coffee rinds and toast at first in the nose before overcome by grilled meats, leather and barn floor accents, needs to warm before you get the full effect of the flowers, eucalyptus and cherry, red currant fruit scents. Medium-bodied, the powdery tannic residue quite evident, some might consider this to be drying out some. But the lost weight also gives cleaner lines to the pine, eucalyptus, orange to lemon citrus and wildflowers. Which, in turn, alleviates some of the monotony in the leather, game, merde elements. Life yet left in the cherry, currant, plum fruit but little juiciness. Moderate coffee, dill, cedar notes. Circumspect wine, no false promises made. 90% Syrah, 10% Viognier. 89 points
Brunel, Domaine André
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Les Cailloux
Blend
1999
$34.99
14.0%
Sort of grimy murkiness to it, a sign of low filtration as anything else, the purple core has a reddish tint to it while the rims are pure brick red with a slight nod towards orange, opaque throughout. Sadly, even after some aeration, the alcoholic heat unsettles the nose, otherwise you’d have a pure stream of soft milk chocolate, raspberry liqueur, blackberry and currant fruit, with additional notes of horsehide, wildflowers and dried lemon peels. Full-bodied and thick in the mouth, as if just starting to uncongeal and regain liquid form. Toastier here, yet, at the same time, displays more resonant leather, cedar, earth, wildflower elements, the latter aided by finely gritty tannins. The sweet lemon drop accents almost suggest lime. Dried fruit concentration settling into the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, still more golden raisin and fig than prune. Highly credible length through the finish. Could use a few more years, not much more. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, other. 90 points
Rideau Vineyard
Regional Blend, California
California
In-Circle Cellar Club
Petite Sirah
2005
$52.00
15.7%
Full purple color without necessarily entailing blackness, quite youthful red ruby to magenta hued rims, excellent depth along with a fine surface sheen. Very fresh and juicy nose of just squeezed raspberry, strawberry, blackberry fruit, light and soft whipped cream note, overall freshness brings out more floral accents, lemon juice, hard to sneak anything past all that fruit. Full-bodied, soft and juicy just the same in the mouth, a veritable cavalcade of raspberry, strawberry, blueberry fruit with nary a sign of leatheriness nor earthiness, more likely golden raisin. Flowers, lemon to white grapefruit citrus there, maybe granite like stoniness. No paucity of vanillin cream and softer oaky notes. Honestly, little here says “Hi, I’m a Petite Sirah” but it tastes real, umm, tasty. 89 points
Copain
Monterey County, California
Santa Lucia Highlands
Garys’ Vineyard
Syrah
2004
$49.99
14.8%
Fully opaque black-purple core, the thin rims of ruby-magenta bespeak of no lack of extraction. While the nose is oaky as hell, it’s not poofy vanilla cream and butterscotch it’s more subtle molasses, grill smoke, meat glaze notes, the beef like nuances more fleshy than iodine and skin, presents flowers in a by-the-book manner, adornment to the blackberry, raspberry scents more than standalone, very pungent generally speaking. Medium-bodied and a touch more svelte than expected based on the nose, strong emphasis on super-ripe blackberry, boysenberry, blueberry fruit and then that mesquite smoke, molasses, barbeque elements. The lemon to white grapefruit citrus still there, if lower, greater degree of that thick floral musk. The acidity is decent, not displaying any tannic underpinning. Have to say, after spending some time with it, kind of simple and plain. 87 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Petite Sirah
2003
$35.00
14.6%
“Black light” type saturation in the dark purple core, bounces light off the surface decently, thin but densely set ruby rims, no sign of any sediment anywhere. There’s a reductive quality to the nose that is slow to resolve, peanut butter, merde, wet fallen leaves, then a suggestion of flowers before dense, blockish currant, plum, cherry scents ensue. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, feeling as if made of sturdy steel mesh than cement blocks. The oak influence obvious from the start with vanilla fudge, caramel, butterscotch flavors in effect. Here there’s additional white grapefruit zest and the floral dimension elevated. There’s a little more fluidity to the plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit if, in the end, remains more blockish than anything. In the end, maybe possesses more agreeable acidity than tannin, nevertheless mostly structured by sheer density. Hard to see improvement, easy to see staying on current plateau. 87 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Ynez Valley, California
Larner Vineyard
Syrah
2002
$26.99
14.9%
Neither that clean nor filmy, there’s just a hint of gauziness in the purple core, the wide ruby rims show as much pink as red, either way fully saturated. The nose is on the reticent side, more grill and kindling smoke and potpourri than currant, cherry fruit, if there’s meat notes they tend to be overshadowed by oak, a few bursts of pleasing white grapefruit to lemon, nothing here long lived. Full-bodied, smoother and richer than the nose might indicate. It’s the oak toast, coffee bean, mocha crisp, caramel which comprises the majority of the attack. The flower and citrus dimensions drop a notch here. Neither the acidity nor tannin jumps out at you. In a tactile sense the raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit is jammy but without a lot of sweetness. Retains its energy and power through the finish, if unchanneled for the most part. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2008
Pax Wine Cellars
Knights Valley, California
Obsidian
Syrah
2003
$45.00
15.1%
Block-like opacity to the purple core, like it’s made of solid rubber, razor thin rims as violet as ruby. Just cooked maple glazed bacon, leather, eucalyptus, cedar, grill smoke and dried wildflowers make for a broadly arrayed nose, the currant, cherry, blackberry scents thick enough to turn to gel. Medium-bodied with a stiffened tensility which creates via inertness a greater sense of density. The tannins soak in slowly enough to allow the sour black currant, blackberry, pomegranate fruit to have a momentary crest. More oak toast, cocoa powder notes here, with restraint. Nice beam of white grapefruit down the middle, contributes to dried beef strip, mineral chunk and green hay elements. Possesses pleasingly unforced length and lasting inner mouth perfume. 90 points
Schoffit, Domaine
Alsace, France
Rangen de Thann Clos Saint-Théobald
Sélection de Grains Nobles Tokay Pinot Gris
Pinot Gris
1995
$89.99
13.5%
Advanced orange-yellow color, appears to stop a millimeter below the surface, in spite of the glowing hue, overall comes off visually dull. Baked pie notes of apricot, peach, nectarine fruit, thickly honeyed with good contrasting bite in the lemon citrus, add in sweet tea leaf and mint, thick lift in your nostrils. In the mouth it is unctuously full-bodied, led by a vibrant tangerine, tangelo, lemon zest, also displays wicked strong acidity for its category. Manages an undercurrent of stoniness and cut grass, a good display of terroir for a dessert wine. Serious bite in the pineapple, nectarine, apricot, papaya fruit, tropical but in no way soft nor liquidy. Leaves your pleasure nodes more scrubbed than massaged. 500 ml bottle. 92 points
Hobbs
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Limited Edition
Shiraz
1998
$75.99
13.5%
Faint film to the ruby-magenta to violet colored core, the rims remain adolescent in appearance with more bright pinkish magenta. Fat, creamy coconut, vanilla custard, mint infused nose, thick eucalyptus too, its in your face style produces round and penetrating plum, black cherry, boysenberry scents, agreeably tightens up with air time, already here delivers on its reputation. Medium-bodied, highly tangy and borderline biting, here in the mouth the acidity really frames the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit and slims it into fighting shape. Mixes in tar, leather, lemon peel, sweet grill smoke. Mildly herbaceous but no real edge to it. In a weird way, it tries very hard to be “serious” when it should probably just play up the “spoof.” 88 points
Hahn, JJ
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
1914 Block
Shiraz
1998
$49.99
14.5%
Cloudy crimson-purple core, violet to red magenta rims, not evincing much age. Rugged, invasive nose of sour cherry, currant, blackberry fruit, too angular to settle in despite the honey, sweet mesquite chips, caramel components, smoky but still juicy cherry, blackberry scents, freshly wet leather, on the whole never coheres but kudos for the quantity of shit it throws against the wall. Medium-bodied, spicy and lively, the acidity runs somewhat amok and creates a jagged mouth entry, only partially softened by the caramel, mesquite, honey notes. The earthiness and leatheriness yanks it back to rawness again. Angular currant, cranberry, blackberry, pomegranate fruit. While there’s a lot here too, my goodness, calm down. 87 points
Classic McLaren
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
La Testa
Shiraz
1997
$80.00
14.0%
Serious murk and filminess deepens the black-purple core, somehow lightens to a red-orange brick shade around the rims, still on the dark side of things. Mint, eucalyptus, potpourri give the nose an initially breezy quality, followed on by attractive dried beef, leather, salt lick, barbecue mesquite smoke nuances, takes time to kick in but no dearth of black currant, cherry, blackberry fruit scents, the earthiness glues it to your nostrils. Medium-bodied, has the energy and verve to splash into your mouth like it owns it. More mesquite smoke, lemon citrus, dried flowers, never too oaky and the acidity a consistently refreshing presence. Compact, yet not succinct, currant, blackberry, black cherry fruit, sinewy throughout. Shows enough beef, leather game notes to deepen ability to shift on you. Very nice, hits all the “food groups.” 92 points
Dominus
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1991
$120.00
13.5%
Young ruby-violet colored core, barely moving into a red-orange tint at the rims, hardly any sediment showing. Cedar, saddlesoap, leather and tobacco leaf lead the way in the nose, gently sets the table for bolder bell pepper, pine cone, orange peel elements, retains a pleasing patina of vanilla/chocolate creaminess, mild roasted quality to the red currant, cherry, blackberry scents, refuses to end. Medium-bodied, toothy tannins clamp and funnel direction without ever desiring attention. So collected and integrated that, even at this age, continues to shame the competition. While on the dry side, there’s ample boldness and concentration in the currant, black cherry, plum fruit, lasts completely to the end. Offers similar notes of tobacco, tea leaf, leather and such as in the nose but it’s almost tactful to the point of no one aspect sticking out among the rest. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 93 points
Grillet, Château
Rhône, France
Château Grillet
Viognier
2000
$83.99
13.5%
White to light yellow hay color, fairly hueless and dull, visual appearance not its strength. A little reduced at first in the nose, opens to lemon peel, blanched almonds, quiet green apple, pear, peach fruit, muted floral lift as well, solid minerally underpinning though. Full-bodied, great grip even though it releases equally well. More nuttiness here, florality softer in contrast, the stone and mineral shard elements bigger in turn. Consistent presentation of the lemon, orange to white grapefruit citrus, dry and neither tangy nor sweet. Even-keeled pear, red apple, apricot to almost cherry fruit. The acidity is elevated sufficiently to keep the stoniness in the lead through the finish. Does gain richness as it warms but seems not really ready for opening night. 88 points
Tensley
Santa Barbara County, California
Purisima Mountain Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$40.00
13.5%
The purple core sufficiently dark to achieve opacity, the rims youthful with the ruby just starting to darken into crimson shades, you don’t see the sediment film until the glass is empty. The nose betrays little evidence of advancement, filled with raspberry, blackberry, blueberry fruit scents, moments of lemon juice and flower petals, only a dash of cocoa powder, no evident oak, even less beef blood or iodine. Full-bodied with heaviness, strides gracefully forward like new dress shoes on a soft rug. Here too the fruit of blackberry, black cherry, raspberry squarely centerstage. The oak adds some creaminess and vanilla flavoring, however, the acidity keeps this in line. Mixed white citrus and a lower hint of flowers there, some stoniness yet, in the end, tastes unevolved. 89 points
Turley
Napa Valley, California
Hayne Vineyard
Petite Sirah
2001
$75.00
15.2%
While fully opaque dark purple through the core, the brightness of the red-magenta rims displays the underlying clarity, sleek surface shine as well. Poached plum, cherry fruit and dark chocolate icing make up most of the nose, the eucalyptus and dried flower notes too slight to make an impact, sun-tanned leather fares slightly better. Full-bodied, tangy entry, gets by mainly on sharp baking spices, oak toast, chocolate, mint and orange peel. Not noticeably tannic nor acidic, appears held together by its mass and density. The plum, cassis, blackberry fruit thick and gooey in texture yet not overly sweet. There is a semi-dry residue left behind through the finish but doesn’t strike you as a product of tannin. Fruit lasts very well. 89 points
Martinelli
Russian River Valley, California
Jackass Vineyard
Zinfandel
1998
$50.00
16.0%
Very filmy throughout but not much sign of sediment per se (stood up for three days), opaque black-purple contrasts with the rims washed out red brick with more vivid orange tint. The nose seems somewhat flattened out, menthol, tomato skin, pine sap, cough syrup, orange glaze and vanilla custard, not particularly oaky, the blackberry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit sugary without achieving dried fruit concentration. Full-bodied, bien sur, here in the mouth the caramel, butterscotch, vanilla pudding, milk chocolate oak flavors first and foremost. Orange sherbet, eucalyptus and mint next up, not to ignore the jammy blackberry, black cherry, blueberry fruit. Little alcoholic burn but does go to your head. Touch of leather or dried beef blood yet nothing here suggests tertiary nuances of a wine almost a decade old. Good for chugging. Especially for the buzz. 89 points
Künstler, Weingut Franz
Rheingau, Germany
Hochheimer
Hölle
QbA Trocken Erstes Gewächs AP #13
Riesling
2005
$34.99
13.5%
Solidly arrayed green-gold color, glassy with layers of translucency, some hue loss at the outer rims. The nose is of mint leaf and powdered stone, the orange to lemon citrus juicy without seeming sweet, the same for the peach, apricot, pear, melon scents, completely ripened without losing clear contour. Full-bodied with endless extract, for its density hovers in the mouth, barely leaves a footprint. Here the peach, apricot, cantaloupe, papaya flavors more engagingly fruity. Pink grapefruit to tangerine citrus has a softness to it, aided by a curious patina of vanilla. The stone, salt and mineral elements there but cloaked by youthful exuberance. The acidity seems somewhat slight and the dryness only truly evident through the finish. It’s one big boy that may never slim down more than its broad skeleton allows. Tempts you to gulp now and let others worry about the future. 90 points
Ridge
Napa Valley, California
York Creek Vineyard Paddock Vines
Petite Sirah
1998
$22.00
12.9%
Just enough blackness through the purple core to combine with the sediment present for opacity to rule until the mostly red brick rims with minor tinge of ruby. Herbaceous nose with a slight touch of peanut shells, leather and dried beef help stabilize things, the cherry, currant fruit scents dried up and shrunken some, throws big punches with poor footwork. Medium-bodied, the sediment matches up with the very dry and powdery tannins, usually when you take a sip of wine it’s in liquid form. While the dried fruit character never fully lost, the cherry, currant, plum fruit not shot. Pine sap and odd bell pepper notes give it an outdoorsy feel, wood kindling smoke, beef blood, horse hide and dusty earth keep it up. Wasn’t great in its youth but at least now has earned crotchety old man status. 91% Petite Sirah, 9% Zinfandel. 87 points
Dominus
Napa Valley, California
Napanook Proprietary Red Wine
Blend
1997
$39.99
14.1%
As much burnt red as purple in the core, widens into vivid crimson and then dark orange rims. A little funk in the nose at first before thick slabs of cherry, currant, blackberry fruit and a forest breeze, shows a floral touch as well, eucalyptus and menthol, congeals as much as settles in, not clumsy per se but may step on your toes. Medium-bodied, again, once the sulfur-like notes blow off it’s a steady flow of cocoa powder, orange extract, menthol and buoyant raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit. That said, stays on the dry side due to the active tannins. Cedar, saddle soap, tree bark, grass, mineral shards, does gain credibility as it opens and grows into itself. Wafts upwards without easy dissolve, still more evocative of California than Bordeaux. 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 17% Merlot. Dominus second label. 88 points
Ampeau et Fils, Robert
Burgundy, France
Volnay
Santenots
Pinot Noir
1993
$59.99
13.0%
Fully transparent and clear, faded purple core gives way to brown-yellow slash red-orange rims, good surface shine. Sulfury nose at first, salt and minerals then tart raspberry, red cherry fruit, very haphazard presentation overall, leather, matted grass, menthol, like the proverbial absent-minded professor, you just take it at face value in the moment. Medium to full-bodied, not heavy at first but sinks in like wet cement. Highly herbaceous, followed on by cracked stone, earth, tar and sour lemons. The acidity more periodically crests than flows steadily. No paucity of bite in the raspberry, cranberry, watermelon, red cherry fruit, the white grapefruit and lemon citrus supports this fully. Likes to tank you more than massage you, in the end this might be the right choice. 88 points
Deléger, Domaine Georges
Burgundy, France
Chevalier-Montrachet
Chardonnay
1999
14.0%
Very rich amber gold color yet at the same time crystal clear, big fade in hue towards the rims. Strong caramel and oak toast in the nose, tangerine zest as well as smoky wet stones, some mint adorns the pear, peach, apricot fruit, starts slowly but builds power nicely. Medium-bodied, on the soft side but the acidity is adequate to the task of revving it through the mid-palate. Real toasty but not vainly so, fits into the fabric. Nice mineral water, washed stone, herb notes for interplay with the thicker caramel and vanilla cream shades. Gentle-spirited peach, pear, apricot fruit given lift by smokiness through the back half. A gritty residue left behind keeps your mind focused on it. Clicking more than clacking, in a good place right now. 89 points
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
La Chapelle de Lafon-Rochet
Blend
1995
$24.99
12.5%
Crystal clear crimson-red to purple core, the rims brighten appreciably to scarlet and burnt orange hues. By the script nose of cedar, saddle leather, herbs, soap, driftwood with a spritz of orange citrus, the cherry, red currant, raspberry scents perfunctory. Medium-bodied, dry and remains tannic but not in the way that you’d think it is going to one day resolve, here to stay. So damn dry throughout, gnaws at the bones of the cherry, currant, raspberry fruit. Again presents a short menu of lemon and orange citrus, menthol, rosemary, cedar, not so earthy nor leathery here. All in all, though, it’s a steady cruise for a somewhat tough-nosed aged claret. Bring out your beef! 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot. Second label of Château Lafon-Rochet. 87 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2003
$42.00
16.2%
Noticeable flat crimson influence through the maturing purple core, watery brick red rims barely show any life. The nose offers mainly coconut custard, vanilla fudge and raspberry, cherry juice, even the eucalyptus and orange citrus seems diminutive in comparison, a late brush of grassiness helps it eke out a few more seconds of presence. Medium-bodied, attacks with a sour bite if not outright bitter. Not particularly tannic, more linearity provided by acidity. The raspberry, cherry, strawberry fruit in the forefront here, you just about wish there was deeper oak creaminess to add body and act as a buffer against the bitterness. The elements of white grapefruit to orange citrus and stone and grass packed earth allow a center to coalesce and add breadth to an otherwise delimited experience. As said, the cocoa and toasted bread flavors barely stretch out while with each sip a dry tackiness builds on your tongue. Somewhat of a chore to drink. 85 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Jimsomare Ranch
Cabernet Sauvignon
1995
$27.50
12.9%
Deep black purple core of full opacity, sleek surface notwithstanding, the very thin rims as much ruby as brick red. Cedar and menthol play a huge role in the nose, wildflowers and mountain scrub able foot servants, never quite delivers on the leather and earth tip, the cherry, currant fruit blunt yet satisfying, on the whole it’s a strong presence of few words. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and spicy through the attack, draws notice for the acidity as much as for the tannin. Savory orange blossom, tea leaf, tar, cedar and clove notes keep kicking the shins of the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit and has ’em hopping. Touch of mixed white citrus, grass and stone shards. Settles into itself very nicely and keeps its reach within its grasp, something rare these days. 90 points
Maltroye, Château de la
Burgundy, France
Chassagne-Montrachet
Grandes Ruchottes
Chardonnay
1989
13.0%
Full golden color, flattens some below the surface contributing to the dull rims. Smoky, almost ashen nose, you just about sneeze from the stone dust and dried lemon peels, the pear, apple, peach fruit cruises through your nostrils at a high altitude, have to squint to see it. Medium-bodied, dry and tacky mouth texture, this highlights the cinnamon and clove spice. Some speed derived from the that lemon/lime citrus and stoniness. Sufficient acidity to stir up the pear, peach, apricot into a congo line. Develops a floral side as it warms which helps it fill out. In no way oxidized and evinces some aging, however, strides erectly and evenly with purpose. 89 points
Huet, G.
Loire, France
Vouvray
Le Clos du Bourg
Demi-Sec
Chenin Blanc
1957
11.5%
Very deep amber base yet also filled with brighter green flecks, becomes more faded yellow around the rims. Salty, wooly nose that changes at a slow rhythm, at turns offering light brushes of honey, tilled grassy earth, tar, there’s a vague poached quality to the apricot, nectarine, peach, pineapple scents, overall pared back from a novel to a focused short story. Medium-bodied, still a puncher, wants to knock you out, not win by decision. Petrol, tar smoke with earthiness from the attack to the finish. Any initial sweetness mostly subsumed into more sour pineapple, nectarine, apricot, persimmon fruit. The underlying grassiness rolled up into the whole, fits in place next to the anise, rosemary, sage notes. The acidity strong enough yet to pull a locomotive uphill. Wooly, semi-scratchy texture as it ends, however, little here suggests its age. 92 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Blanchot
Chardonnay
2000
$108.99
13.0%
Clear white-brown straw in color with a sparkling surface, not much hue loss around the rims as what was there to lose? Very floral and light of touch nose, swirls of anise, mint, dried honey, the evanescent pear, peach, apricot scents give way without a fuss to white pebbles and chalk, understated expression throughout. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity establishes a stable foundation for the flowers, sweet garden herbs and orange/tangerine citrus. Here more prominence in the stones, pebbles, just rocks dammit. The fruit not densely packed, more like wet sponge waiting to get squeezed and release the apricot, peach, pear flavors, hangs around while maintaining a certain transparency. Has hit a very long plateau of drinkability. With its sinewy grip not quite imperious but close. 91 points
Ramonet, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Chassagne-Montrachet
Les Ruchottes
Chardonnay
2000
$76.99
13.5%
Yellow-amber gold mélange of hues, fades some towards the rims, surface very reflective yet it shows its age. The nose is all overblown caramel, toffee, butterscotch, one sniff and you’ll be smelling oak for days, maybe if you’re lucky you may discern some lemon juice, peach and pear skin, not much else available. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and by all appearances vastly oxidized, flush with those caramel, toffee, butterscotch flavors, comes across as all but completely flat. Some lemon to lime citrus as well as floral water yet you’d have to be able to jump further than The Incredible Hulk to get past the barricade of oak. Reduced peach, apricot, pear fruit has a moment to shine before, err, more oak. Not good. 84 points
Dujac, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Gevrey-Chambertin
Aux Combottes
Pinot Noir
2000
$89.99
13.0%
Light violet touches to the core yet it remains mainly garnet red to orange in hue throughout, bright sparkle catches your eye. Sufficient smokiness in the nose to energize the cherry, raspberry fruit, more earthiness than oakiness, smattering of meadow flowers, grasses and dried lemons, again, the oak toast is minimal and only comes out seconds before it dissolves. Medium-bodied, while the acidity is somewhat dull, here the oak spice supplants that role and plays a big part in providing energy. Merde, drying mud and wet straw give it street, err, vineyard, cred. Dried oranges, lemons imbue it with forward momentum. Lots of roundness, but not necessarily flesh, in the raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit. Shakes off even more weight as it nears the finish line. Not balanced but not teetering. 88 points
Droin, Jean-Paul
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Chardonnay
1999
$18.99
12.5%
The golden color certainly deepening with age and taking on a a sort of solidity, holds through to the rims, not quite amber yet, still a few green flecks. The nose just about split down the middle between botrytis-like honeyed notes and smoky white stone and chalk, if there’s a winner it is the former due to the depth of the florality and mintiness as well as ripeness in the peach, apricot, yellow apple fruit scents. Medium-bodied, schoolmaster sternness in the acidity, not so much bite but lots of bark. This gives the pebbles, chalk, mineral water the edge at first and plays up some sweetish orange to pink grapefruit citrus. Then honey and caramel accents bubble up, adds both sweetness and body. Good length with a hint of bitter grilled nuts which does please. Not quite regally well-bred but still worth the initial tariff. 88 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Sonoma County, California
Cuvée Moriah
Blend
2003
$50.00
16.4%
There’s a certain dullness, not filminess, to how it sits in the glass, from the dense purple core through to the ruby rims, these still more magenta than red. Smells like it was bottled yesterday, all fresh and juicy raspberry, cherry, strawberry, apple fruit as well as garden flowers, orange blossom, the thick caramel and honey solidifies it in your nostrils. Full-bodied, fills your mouth like syrup dripping off a spoon, no big punch but consistently keeps the pace until it starts to spill over. Orange, lemon citrus, sweet spice, caramel, honey, molasses, eucalyptus, there’s a lot in there but the conductor is in the head taking a whiz. Not much by way of tannins but something here makes you think there’s acidity, left the test tubes at work. The raspberry, strawberry, pomegranate, cranberry fruit as solid during the finish as the attack. Nothing profound here but waves of uncritical pleasure has to count for something. Or it’s the 16.4%. 69% Grenache, 18% Syrah, 9% Mourvèdre, 3% Counoise, 1% Roussanne. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2008
Ravenswood
Sonoma Valley, California
Monte Rosso Vineyard
Zinfandel
1997
$34.99
15.5%
The depth of the purple has faded to admit more reddish tint, the broad rims yet in transition from brighter ruby to redder scarlet hues, immaculately neat in the glass. There’s a definite “brambly” character to the nose of meadow grasses and flowers, fallen pine needles, cedar, clove and moments of meatiness, fresh prune and golden raisin accents deepen the base of raspberry, blackberry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, while it has noticeably “shrunk” it’s all in equal proportion, more resized. Lots of fruit left, sweet too, raisin and fig there alongside the red cherry, blackberry, raspberry, persists fully to the finish line. Pine, eucalyptus breeze brings with it lemon peel, rosemary and thyme, cedar and tea leaf shades. Both the tannin and acidity aging with strength and remain capable of directing traffic. Loosely knit enough to give each component its moment to shine, a competent and fluid jazz ensemble. 92 points
Pégau, Domaine du
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Réservée
Blend
1999
$44.99
13.5%
The core remains mostly ruby-purple, however, the very wide rims formed of brick red with a bright carrot orange starting to form. Quite leathery nose with salt, olive pit, field flowers outpacing the cherry, raspberry scents, hangs pregnantly in the nostrils. Full-bodied, the acidity in part cloaked by the dusty tannins, as a result more dry than refreshing. Orange peel, cocoa powder and spice frame the attack before it unleashes green olives, merde, dried blood and floral brush. The candied cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit might be thinning out some or this could be pinned on the tannin’s activity. Either way, the tertiary flavors easily outlast the fruit. pleasurable and just about compelling, personal taste should dictate whether to pop them now or wait a few years still for the tannin to subside more. Mainly Grenache, remainder Syrah, etc. 91 points
Latour, Maison Louis
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Goutte d’Or
Chardonnay
1999
$47.99
13.0%
The depth in the golden core seems to have whitened into a straw color with green flecks, holds decently through to the rims. There’s a floral waft through the nose, buttressed by keen lemon/lime citrus, a quiet stoniness flexes below, the pear, apple, melon scents cruise through unobtrusively. Medium-bodied, touches of powdered sugar, floral dust and dried lemons adorn the mouth entry. Even though there’s a flatness to the acidity this doesn’t appear to be the main source of the overall dryness throughout the pear, peach, apricot, nectarine fruit. The stoniness a touch inert but not absent. Its close-woven and tight from start to finish, it it had a little more give you’d get some tongue instead of just lips. 88 points
Serene, Domaine
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Evenstad Reserve
Pinot Noir
1998
$109.99
13.0%
Decent amount of cloud in it, adds a layered glow to the ruby-violet core, the deep set rims colored garnet to deep ruby and yet youthful. The nose has quieted down a good deal, simple presentation of wet grass, cherry, raspberry and almost strawberry fruit, minimal earthiness nor merde, even the lemon and garden herb scents succinct. Medium-bodied, while the tannins have subsided, the acidity funnels the red cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit, definitely further than the fruit’s weight could have on its own. Very lemony but not grassy. There’s a stony, poor earth expression towards the end. Remains a little simple without a tight weave in the fabric. 1.5 liter bottle. 88 points
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Estate
Grenache
1998
$19.99
14.3%
Light, crystal clear violet core lightened further by red hues, the rims flush with garnet to crimson coloration. The nose blossoms fully with buttered popcorn, butterscotch oak scents, still cloaking the raspberry, blackberry scents, a touch twiggy and grassy, can’t say it presents much explicit development. Full-bodied, off artificial slash rubbery texture upon mouth entry. The powdery sweetness in the strawberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit drags with it lemon to orange peel and ginger spice shades. The oak offers fewer distinct flavors here but as a whole still a presence. Lil’ bit of earthiness and grass but nothing special. Seems to have plateaued but, by the same token, has faded as might be expected. 75% Grenache, 20% Zinfandel, 5% Petite Sirah. 85 points
Beaulieu Vineyard
Napa Valley, California
Georges de Latour Private Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1973
13.0%
Very light and transparent, shows all the sediment throughout the brick red core even after a decant through cheese cloth, the rims all dull red, then orange, then yellow. Cedar, raisin, prune, candied raspberry ably carry the nose, accompanied by vanilla powder, pressed flowers and licorice. Medium-bodied, displays verve and vigor for its age with excellent freshening acidity to extend both its length in general and the reach of the tart red cherry, raspberry, red currant fruit. Cedar, leather, rosemary, orange spice, grass, licorice, pine needle affably settle in, very mature without ever seeming dead. The grapefruit, orange citrus component gains speed near the end. After some time open does start to fade. Before that, though, quite the good drop and a testament to this wine’s reputation. 89 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Lauterbach Hill Vineyard
Syrah
2004
$55.00
15.5%
Basically opaque black-purple core, no intensity loss through the heavy red-magenta rims, replete with de rigueur glow. The nose has a thick textural lift that remains solidly anchored, the currant, cherry, blackberry scents glued together and to the cinnamon stick, menthol rub, toffee crisp, mountain scrub, coffee rinds scents, rolls of flesh. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and has bite during the attack due to the raspberry, cherry, cranberry fruit even though the acidity is not especially cutting. Honey, molasses, toffee, all the oak flavors are hard and not particularly toasty. With the overall weight the underlying dryness doesn’t have much impact. Squares its shoulders past the mid-palate and charges forward. Just big. 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Petite Sirah
2002
$35.00
15.1%
Jet black, almost onyx core, with thin if richly incandescent crimson red rims. Still so much coconut, vanilla powder, butterscotch in the nose, as it opens gains focus on the pine cone, wild herb, orange zest accents, sharp and tangy currant, blackberry, cherry scents, has a competitive nature, wants to test you. Medium-bodied, spicy with clove, ginger nuances in addition to orange zest, flowers, menthol and pine. The tannins are tacky as well as mildly peppery, both helps to glue things in and create a slow bubble up. Sour bite enlivens the cherry, red currant, blackberry fruit. While slow to coalesce, dried beef and leather tones embellish the finish. May warrant further aging but the cloth’s knit has begun to stretch and stay stretched. 90 points
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Cuvée des 10 Ans
Chardonnay
2000
$19.99
13.0%
Solid old gold coloration from the core to the rims, more depth than shine, pools deeply. Crème brûlée, vanilla pudding hit your nostrils first, then tangerine peels and pebbles, stabilizes into taut pear, peach, green apple scents of pleasing length. Medium-bodied and compact, no wasted motion nor extra flab. It’s no fault of the acidity that the oak toast, caramel, crème brûlée, coconut dominates. That said, the oak does so tastefully and provides room for the apple, pear, apricot fruit as well as the lemon, tangerine citrus. Light floral swipe at the end. All in all, a very good wine that should be avoided by the persnickety as it’s not exactly the soul of Chablis. 89 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2000
$32.99
13.0%
Moderate yellow-straw color, semi-dull finish to the surface, mild hue loss approaching the rims. Mint and pressed flowers in the nose pair seamlessly with crushed seashell, chalk, limestone type scents, the lemon peel a strong introduction to the pear, yellow apple, apricot fruit, stretches out more than naturally tall, no heaviness. Medium-bodied, semi-withering acidity cakes the palate, however, the honeyed, botrytis-like notes come out swiftly. This brings a candied feel to the lemon, lime peel without giving up alertness in the minerality and chalkiness. While wiry, there’s no leanness in the apricot, pear, peach fruit. Attractive balance between hard and soft textures. No need to rush the cork out of the bottle. 91 points
Correggia, Azienda Agricola Matteo
Piedmont, Italy
Roero
Ròche d’Ampsej
Nebbiolo
1999
$38.99
14.5%
Clear red-ruby colored core, curiously heavy-set crimson red rims, seems only moderately aged. Heavy, heavy vanilla cream alongside caramel percolates through the nose, dried rose petal and pine notes work hard to create lift, the dried orange peel and cherry to blackberry scents solid without being a linchpin, doesn’t display substantive advancement. Medium-bodied, remarkably smooth, the soft sandpapery tannins give way good naturedly to the juicy raspberry, cherry, strawberry fruit and lemon/orange citrus. Leather, horsehide, cedar and tea leaves fill out the mid-palate. Zigs and zags considerably from sip to sip, makes you hesitant to assess fully. 88 points
Trinoro, Tenuta di
Tuscany, Italy
Rosso
Blend
1998
$89.99
14.0%
Deep purple bruise coloration. the ruby rims clear without sacrificing the overall considerable saturation. Lots going on in the nose, presents tea leaf, mint, orange spice, tobacco, coffee bean, chocolate, caramel, manages to not come off as oaky, once you get past these slutty scents there’s bell pepper and a whisper of leather alongside the cherry and red currant fruit. Medium-bodied with the texture of velour, both gives and grips. The fruit stays in the fore throughout, even though the strawberry, raspberry, cherry fruit is not over the top nor excessively sweet. Gains a floral lift with lemon custard notes. The tannins pretty much powdered now, the acidity on the light side. Just figures out how to please and then delivers. 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot. 90 points
Pointe, Château La
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1998
$29.99
12.5%
There’s a murky layered quality to the dark purple core, leans heavily on the otherwise bright brick red rims, rests heavily in the glass. Slabs of juicy plum, currant, blackberry fruit continue to take up 99% of the space in the nose, mocha chip, coffee bean, flowers and freshly ground cedar chips, nothing to complicate immediate enjoyment. Full-bodied, round with good palate pressure, there’s sufficient tannin to act as the quicker-picker-upper when needed. Orange peel, garden herbs, wet cedar, ginger match up with the more basic vanillin and chocolaty oak flavors. A certain medicinal fume builds pleasingly in the mouth past the mid-palate. Long, unforced finish. Can still shed some fat but pleasure is in the house. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Anwilka
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Blend
2005
$39.99
14.0%
Black core, perfectly opaque and with a squeaky clean surface, surrounded by razor thin ruby-magenta rims. Serious amount of oak in the nose, roasted coffee, fried butter, toffee, some wildflower fluff to be had before the fat plum, currant, cherry scents plop in, built to invade your nostrils with force. Medium-bodied, so oaky it is neigh impossible to get past the caramel, coffee, butterscotch to any of the cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit. With concentration you may discern floral dust, orange citrus, leather, cedar and sweet tea leaves. Some tannin, no acidity. No guile, straightforward celebration of the mating of oak and fruit. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Shiraz. 86 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Petite Sirah
2001
$35.00
14.2%
Zero cloud or film, the complete opacity comes from the jet black core, purple only makes a brief appearance before the burnt red to pinkish ruby rims. Caramel popcorn, butterscotch, butter cream set the table in the nose, the density of the plum, currant, cherry scents not providing room for anything but the floral dew, barely shows a trace of further scents. Medium-bodied with perhaps a bigger mouth feel due to the steel beams of tannin. Orange peel, potpourri, cedar come through next but it’s like a trudge through a tar pit, every inch forward gained with a bucket of sweat. Not much give in the plum, cherry fruit, lasts well but you fight to get at the juice. Licorice and mint add a second of nuance at the end. Could potentially unwind more but hard to imagine complexity as a result. 88 points
Saxum
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
James Berry Vineyard
Bone Rock
Syrah
2000
$48.00
14.8%
Remarkable clarity and cleanliness, especially given the blackness of the purple core, brilliant luster along the surface, vivid orange to scarlet rims, bright like a sunset. The salt, stone, mineral, dried beef scents in the nose high in the register and sneak in before the more resonant plum, blackberry fruit, the oak toast has softened into caramel, vanilla fudge notes, as it opens there’s more of a leveling floral component, firms up before dissolving. Full-bodied but shedding weight, more like a metal fence than brick wall. Here the cocoa dust, fried butter, toffee oak more evident, brings out mint leaf as well. Dull stoniness throughout, otherwise few signs of development, no gamey nor meaty accents. The acidity able to freshen the raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit, draws it further towards the finish. No blockbuster but rather solid, consistent delivery. 90 points
Ridge
Sonoma Valley, California
Pagani Vineyard
Mataro
1997
$18.00
14.5%
Deeply hued, the ruby-purple core spotless enough to avoid opacity, a magenta tint brings a glow to the ruby foundation of the rims, nothing here suggests a wine of its age. The nose brings the raspberry, strawberry, cherry fruit fast and furious, thankfully not quite jammy so that there’s spaces for the floral dew and lemon custard to show, more hints than delivers on the meatiness ledger. Full-bodied, round and rich, this allowing for the highly credible level of acidity carving away at anything it can touch. Super-sweet cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, a real palate stainer. Milk chocolate and pine fit in well and, as in the nose, the orange and lemon citrus pitches in to clean up the finish. Not quite “wooly” nor “gamey” but neither would seem unapt either. Makes you enjoy it more than pay attention to it. 77% Mataro, 23% Zinfandel. 90 points
Relanges, Domaine des
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
La Cuvée Vigneronne
Blend
1998
$22.99
13.5%
Filmy throughout, red-orange inflections lighten the purple core albeit murkily opaque, the rims a dull brick red with orange to brown tints. Powerful herbaceousness in the nose, favors the stony earthiness, there’s orange reduction and wet leather in there too, a smoky, if not quite roasted, quality pervades the raspberry, cherry scents, the latter retains some youthful vigor. Full-bodied, what tannin there might have been has resolved yet the acidity still has kick. Chocolate and dried wildflowers pile on top of the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit which didn’t really need an excuse to stay on the couch. Again, a substantial amount of grassiness, earthiness to be had, adds to the overall chewiness. Rugged, country-style wine with appeal. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, etc. 88 points
Bouchard Père & Fils
Burgundy, France
Corton-Charlemagne
Chardonnay
2002
$89.99
13.5%
Light white straw coloration with brilliant shine, very consistent with hardly any dimming at the rims. Crystalline mineral, rock filled nose with smoky oil, mint leaf accents, the peach, apricot, pear scents have leveled off to a steady whisper, close to your ear. Medium-bodied, very steely and flint, presents a lemon infused mineral water element, dried flowers and mint once more. Lacks a somewhat expected creaminess yet that doesn’t take the roundness out of the apricot, peach, pear, yellow apple fruit. The acidity keeping throwing karate chops through to the finish making for a lively workout. Not sure that extended aging is required but should easily hold for 4-5 years. Or 4-5 minutes depending on how fast you can chug. 91 points
Branson Wines & Vineyards
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Coach House
Shiraz
1998
$75.00
14.5%
Clear black-purple core, still turns opaque without any murkiness, broad red-ruby rims betraying no age. Soy sauce, eucalyptus, orange crisp, dark chocolate and mint bubble up through the nose, has a touch of merde yet not enough to disturb the sturdy plum, black currant fruit scents. Medium-bodied, very soft, flows into any open crevice, not structured sufficiently to keep the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit lively past the mid-palate. With orange peel, fried vanilla ice cream, caramel accents, the oak probably adds more weight than any other component. Near the finish both turns more pruney as well as dries out to let herbaceousness and leather show more. Mildly stony at moments. Classy wine but appears fatigued. 88 points
Henschke
South Australia, Australia
Eden Valley
Hill of Grace
Shiraz
1998
$250.00
13.7%
Very clear, light and transparent red-purple color, some bricking towards the rims where red and orange hues dominate. Roasted fruit profile with as much prune, raisin as cherry, cranberry scents, adds in saddle leather, cedar, cow patty shades, doesn’t strike you as over the hill but certainly maturing, good lift. Medium-bodied with a dusty texture as if the tannins ground into powder, grips the tongue more as a result. Medicinal and semi-hot, focuses on orange to grapefruit citrus and cedar accents. Minimal oak left, this helps lend clarity to the other parts. The cranberry, red cherry fruit is drying out but not in a sugary fashion, starts to peter out past the mid-palate. Molasses crisp and cut grass make irregular appearances. Displays lots of that medicinal perfume and alcoholic heat as it dissolves. 88 points
Noon
South Australia, Australia
Langhorne Creek
Reserve
Shiraz
1998
$60.00
15.7%
Trim, well-integrated coloration with attractive surface shine, the violet core puts up no fight in fading to ruby, scarlet hued rims. The nose has good heft and thickness via the caramel, vanilla, candied blood orange scents, notes of witch hazel evoke alcohol but not necessarily heat, rich red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, remains fresh today and persists very well. Medium-bodied, smooth and fairly fluid with liqueur-like concentration in the raspberry, strawberry, cherry fruit but not the heaviness per se. Good acidity brings bite to the grass, stone elements and there’s pleasing florality throughout, especially orange blossom. Soft honey, molasses tones help it sink in past the mid-palate. Actually has a somewhat subtle finish, a minerally aspect comes through and a touch of dried beef. 90 points
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Amery Block 6
Shiraz
1998
$75.00
14.5%
Unblemished black purple core of excellent clarity, with thin ruby rims, overall appears youthfully vigorous. Muscular nose of dark chocolate to German chocolate cake, eucalyptus, mint, caramel, Maraschino cherries, syrupy raspberry and blackberry scents, displays minimal signs of any aging. Medium-bodied with an extremely strong super-structure, however, the tannin and acidity do not come off as overbearing. First presents mint alongside orange to grapefruit citrus tang. Through the firm currant, cherry, blackberry fruit comes through a good deal of stoniness. Really stays in control all the way through to the finish, tenacious focus. Not an inordinate amount of meatiness at the moment, hard to say what tertiary development is left to be had. Big, sassy finish. 92 points
Greenock Creek
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Roennfeldt Road
Shiraz
1998
$300.00
16.0%
Pure violet core, only at the ruby to dark magenta rims can you discern a fine sediment present, no visible bricking. The nose is full of outsized oak, features vanilla ice cream, butterscotch, molasses as well as jammy blackberry, raspberry, blueberry fruit, nothing in there to suggest any scents other than oak and fruit. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, soft and generous, sloshes happily around your tongue. Possesses a tannic spine yet it is rendered almost imperceptible by the layers and layers of blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, cherry fruit. Toasty at first, the oak accents segue to vanilla ice cream, caramel, molasses, butterscotch, mint and menthol. Texturally it’s like a pureed dessert with the consistency of wet cement poured down your throat. Curiously, there’s a bitter note on the finish which provides a point of relief. 90 points
Veritas
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Hanisch Vineyard
Shiraz
1998
$80.00
14.5%
Red-ruby to violet throughout, little difference from core to the rims, spotless and with luster. Sour nose of rubber, merde, and oily notes, this throws the cranberry, red cherry, raspberry fruit off their game, displays momentary bursts of lemon peel and broken stone, as the scents dissolve the vanillin oak and toffee crisp comes through most. Medium-bodied, interplay of sweet and sour here too, furnishing oil, soy sauce, wet smoke and burnt grass notes. The oak component much toastier here and borderline burnt. On the whole more acidic than tannic, has structure but not direction. This allows the alcoholic heat to create turbulence in the red cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit. There’s a medicinal pucker during the finish. Not sure if it can resolve into a more harmonious package but has sufficient complexity to engage the intellect. 88 points
Burge Family Winemakers
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Draycott Vineyard
Reserve
Shiraz
1998
$60.00
14.5%
Good density in the red-purple core, surrounded by dark red-ruby rims, lots of chunky sediment, needs a careful decant. Big, straightforward nose of plum, blackberry, cherry fruit with downy vanilla notes as well as cinnamon and caramel accents, moist game flourishes add depth, just enough mint and menthol to get it unmoored from the ground before it dissolves. Medium to full-bodied, actually puts on weight as it progresses. Mint, eucalyptus and orange spice pretty up the cherry, raspberry, strawberry jam. There’s a shock of chocolate crisp and toffee thereafter. The acidity greases the wheels so that even with the growing weight it glides forward. Hits you with a nip of orange, lemon citrus on the finish. Complete if not horribly complex. 91 points
Fox Creek
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Reserve
Shiraz
1998
$75.00
14.5%
Red-purple filled core, the clarity takes out some richness, however, brightens appreciably to red-magenta and ruby around the rims, pleasing shine. The nose is very organized and streamlined, little touch of cough syrup to the base cherry, raspberry, strawberry scents, steady lift to the mint, eucalyptus, vanilla bean notes, slinky length. Full-bodied and velvety, sinks in nicely and then shakes off the weight like a wet dog. The dried out tannins act like a fine sandpaper on the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit yet the juiciness carries through to the very end. With shades of mint, lemon custard, flowers it stays smiley and fresh, even the heavier vanilla pudding, caramel, molasses flavors relaxed and knit in. Seductive in non-splashy, steady manner. 91 points
Ringland, Chris
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Dry Grown Barossa Ranges
Shiraz
1998
$300.00
15.5%
The purple core opens easily into broad, dark scarlet red rims, heavily saturated throughout to impress. High-toned mint and menthol infused nose, brings out a floral swirl in addition to a “red fruit” character to the cherry, raspberry, currant scent, as it lifts it releases metal shavings and iodine notes, only possesses a gracing blow of caramel and crème brûlée. Medium-bodied, satiny smooth and slithers over the tongue like liquid mercury. Mint, flowers, eucalyptus, cedar and dill nuances abound, opens up the palate into a highly receptive state. The tannins tug at you without pulling at you, acidity smoothes out any ruffles. Bright quality at first to the raspberry, red cherry fruit, sweet and tangy, then turns clingy. That said, orange and lemon zest keep it lively through the end. Just very well knit together, to the point that early on you more or less stop looking for flaws. 92 points
Penfolds
South Australia, Australia
Grange
Shiraz
1998
$185.00
14.5%
Classic red-purple bruise of a core, extremely thin ruby-magenta rims which glow warmly. Heavy, musky perfume of dewy flowers, Mandarin orange, vanilla custard, fresh cedar, tea leaves, cinnamon sticks, the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit scents plush while also a bit unyielding. Full-bodied, attacks with the acidity and tannins bearing their teeth, the notes of dried beef, leather, black earth somewhat deaden the attack. This makes it tough to get at the fluffier wildflower and mint leaf shades. Heavy, lead-footed presentation of the currant, cherry, cassis fruit. By the same token, flattened out orange to grapefruit citrus, tree bark, tar flavors. Molasses sweetness lift the finish an inch. Too dense and wound in on itself now, when it unwinds should deliver on the promises. 97% Shiraz, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. 90 points
Buller & Son, R.L.
Victoria, Australia
Rutherglen
Rare Liqueur Tokay Calliope
Muscadelle
NV
$50.00
18.0%
The red-brown core deepened by a great deal of sediment, deserves a decanting, wide yellow rims. Lots going on in the nose, caramel, burnt grass, coffee rinds, molasses, ginger and cinnamon spice, and then swollen peach and apricot fruit scents, more of an integrated package than isolable scents. Full-bodied, just explodes outwards with toffee, caramel, coffee ice cream and crème brûlée tones. After the initial cannonball effect has subsided there’s lemon zest, mint leaf and even more coffee. Has sufficient acidity to complement the date, fig, raisin flavors with some cherry and raspberry fruit. Coats the palate nicely but more so plasters the roof of your mouth. Tactful length, not over the top. 375 ml bottle. 91 points
Ridge
Sonoma County, California
Buchignani Ranch
Old Vine
Carignane
1999
$22.00
14.3%
Dark purple dominates the core yet there’s a broad red influence too, this scarlet quality leads the ruby and magenta hues around the rims. At first the nose smells like a bushel of freshly picked mint leaves then it shifts gears to caramel sauce dripped over strawberry and raspberry fruit, amidst all this freshness lurks a mutter of animal hide. Full-bodied, the tannins remind you of the plastic rings holding a six-pack of cans together, they’re tough and do the job until suddenly a can escapes and then the plastic goes from fully in control to zero. So, once the “can” is out the chocolate powder, mint, floral essence as well as strawberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit spills forth without any channeling force. Quiet leather, dry earth and meadow grasses hidden behind the fruit. Very good extension through the finish. Your glass gets emptied awful quick like. 89 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Walker Vine Hill Vineyard
Syrah
2003
$50.00
15.4%
Completely opaque purple core, visibly shiny and reflective, the rims truly as violet as ruby-magenta, could not be any more saturated. Presents an explosive nose of floral dew and hyper-juicy blackberry, black raspberry, cherry fruit, sprinkles some cinnamon and ginger here and there, a few slices of orange, more clean than developed and mature. Full-bodied, given the nose the palate is more streamlined than expected, albeit still intently focused on expressing all the blackberry, blueberry, cherry fruit it possibly can. Here you get more oak-derived whipped cream and toffee notes, takes some of the spotlight away from the floral component. The relative lack of toastiness, though, keeps it soft and pliant. The orange to white grapefruit citrus really gains traction past the mid-palate. Not many gamey qualities but the cut grass and stone shard notes play well with the citrus. Very user friendly and with virtually no alcoholic heat showing. 89 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Castelli-Knight Ranch
Syrah
2003
$45.00
15.6%
Nothing penetrating the purple core, let’s just, umm, call it opaque, the thin rims an equal mixture of purple and magenta, heavy glow. The nose is somewhat high-toned and this brings out the alcohol more than if it were just bottom-heavy, grass, stone and salted beef notes lead the way for the ripe yet streamlined white grapefruit to red cherry, blackberry scents, carves its way out of your nostrils rather than linger. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity behaves like a welcome drill sergeant to make sure the cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit does its pushups. In the same vein, you get sufficient minerality, iodine and dried beef to offset any oaky creaminess and molasses flavors. There’s dried potpourri notes but this is eclipsed by the sinewy white grapefruit and lemon citrus. The stoniness continues to build as it opens, providing the proverbial cornerstone to lean on. Has your mouth salivating nicely by the finish. 91 points
Tribut, Laurent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Beauroy
Chardonnay
2000
$21.99
13.0%
Pretty shine found in the green-gold coloration, noticeable fade at the rims in spite of the deep pooling in the core. The nose a big splash of apple juice, cinnamon, lemon zest and flower petals, soft with only a suggestion of stoniness, not particularly long lasting. Medium-bodied, the acidity too blunt to lay down a military drum beat for the flavors although give it credit for trying very hard. A certain bitterness pervades the whole, as well as a flatness which neither lifts into an inner mouth perfume nor sinks into your mouth pores. Dried orange and lemon peels, flower bits and both grilled nuts and glazed pie dough suggest a measure of oxidation. The apple, pear, peach fruit flavors soft and juicy and without verve. Thins out by the finish. By no stretch horrible but by the same token should offer more. 85 points
Ridge
Sonoma County, California
Mazzoni Home Ranch
Blend
1999
$24.00
13.7%
The violet shades have more or less ceded to red-ruby and garnet in the core, certainly the rims are full garnet to magenta, very youthful appearance throughout. The nose is of wild raspberries and strawberries, as if half the berries have broken and bled on the vines, light coffee bean and molasses crisp toast, compact notes of eucalyptus and flower petals buzz in and out. Light to medium-bodied, the tannins, but more so acidity, keep it smooth and supple and pared down for moving quickly. “Very berry” with raspberry, strawberry, blueberry flavors more prominent than any cherry flavors. More active lemon citrus adds sweet and sour tang. The overall lack of heft allows what herbaceousness is there to persist. Again, only the merest brush of oak toast and virtually no heat. Dry finish, at the same time your mouth is really salivating. 50% Zinfandel, 32% Carignane, 18% Petite Sirah. 88 points
Barthod, Domaine Ghislaine
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Aux Beaux Bruns
Pinot Noir
1998
$63.99
13.0%
The dark purple coloration in the core infiltrated by red to brown brick hues moving inwards from the rims, not murky but there is a certain dullness to it. The nose has a certain muddied quality to it, straw, wet dirt, leather as prominent as any cherry, raspberry, blackberry scents, minimal floral lift. Full-bodied, possesses plenty of sappy grip, to the point it slows to a crawl by the mid-palate. Pine, forest air and field flowers definitely give it an outdoorsy character, The acidity is a touch light but no saying the same about the tannins, lots of punch there. Given its weight there’s a curious fluffy feel to the mid-palate. Nips of white grapefruit to orange citrus come out here or there towards the end, sparks things nicely. Overall, though, it’s taken many ballet lessons but only marginally more graceful for it. 87 points
Lafite-Rothschild, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Carruades de Lafite
Blend
1995
$31.99
13.0%
Black purple core of decent opacity, unblemished surface runs towards the red brick and crimson rims where you get to see the fine sediment particles there. The nose bursts with cracked stone, bell pepper, cedar, grass, old saddle leather, hard-nosed red currant, cherry, blackberry scents list here and there, dissolves bluntly. Medium-bodied, as in the nose the grass and bell pepper the first thing noticed, follows on with orange peel, mineral and iodine notes. The tannins remain blockish and forceful yet the currant, cherry, plum fruit provides little reason to believe they will outlast said tannins. Graphite, iron and leather comes on as it settles. Think it’s probably best to take it at face value now than wait for the proverbial swan to appear. Produces a very pleasing cloud of fumes in the mouth before it ends. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. Second label of Château Lafite-Rothschild. 87 points
Prum, Weingut Joh. Jos.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Wehlener
Sonnenuhr
Auslese AP #21
Riesling
1993
$32.99
7.5%
Flat yellow straw color, pales around the rims where green-white hues do the work. Pliable nose, remains more firm than soft, thick rubber accents appear alongside white grapefruit, vanilla custard, tea leaf notes, the florality more forward than the stone/mineral parts, very long presence. Full-bodied, very salty and saline driven attack with boisterous acidity that almost sets the diesel fumes on fire. Tangerine, orange marmalade, pink grapefruit makes for an intense citrus experience. Excellent concentration and juiciness in the apricot, nectarine, peach, melon fruit. Finally, sparkling minerals and steel flecks bubble up through the finish. A mild creaminess keeps it soaking in and lingering through the finish. 92 points
Isole e Olena
Tuscany, Italy
Cepparello
Sangiovese
1990
$30.00
13.5%
A black-brown shade permeates the violet core, by the time things get to the rims it’s all crimson, brick red and zinc hues. Cedar, sweet garden herbs and orange peel bloom through the nose, some pine cone as well, strong hard candy character to the cherry, raspberry scents, has more than a few things going on but somehow doesn’t mesh into one harmonious voice. Medium-bodied, tannins have a dimpled, gritty texture than creates a slight turbulence in the presentation of the orange citrus, dried flowers, leather, cedar and tea leaf flavors, needless to say the same for the cherry, raspberry fruit. That said, it’s pretty welcome as it shakes things up and keeps the fingers snapping. Its sheer activity helps to cover up the relative shortness of the fruit near the finish. Lots of herbaceous fumes at the end. You still want to hit it but the time has come today. 87 points
Movia
Brda, Slovenia
Ribolla Gialla
2004
$28.99
12.0%
Resonant orange tint to the dark golden core, glows enough to not appear old in spite of coloration normally associated with an older wine, the depth of the core underscores the colorless transparency of the rims. There’s a large minerally, if not outright salty, component to the nose, pushes turning smoky at times, the peach, apricot and pear fruit juicy enough to settle things down and soak in, if you get it closer to room temperature there’s moments of flowers and honey. Full-bodied, does an excellent job of coating the palate completely, this without seeming too heavy. The tangerine to lemon citrus and florality much more evident here as well as tangy spice accents. The acidity is sufficiently bright to bring the fruit into the pineapple and nectarine spectrum as well as peach and apricot. Any grassiness met equally by a certain creaminess during the back half. A compelling wine that changes as it opens. 91 points
Mugnier, Jacques-Frédéric
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Pinot Noir
2002
$55.99
12.5%
Very lightly hued mixture of brick red and purple, fully red nearer to the semi-dilute rims, easily transparent. While there’s a modicum of forest floor matter and earth to the nose it is mostly comprised of flowers and light, briskly pure red cherry, raspberry fruit, sweet yet so openly knit the juiciness can’t coalesce against the grassier notes before it dissolves. Medium-bodied, possesses sufficient tannin and acidity to grip through the attack. That said, remains light of touch and the word that keeps coming back again and again is “pretty.” The cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit swells some in the middle and fades with a sigh before the finish. Not short, though, simply tactful and of few words. The lemon peel, dried meadow grasses and dusty brown earth skip along the palate. As with the nose, the delicate florality a softly steady presence. Clean, succinct finish. 89 points
Dagueneau, Didier
Loire, France
Pouilly-Fumé
Silex
Sauvignon Blanc
2002
$74.99
13.1%
Subtle green flecks float through the base yellow straw color, the surface sparkles sufficiently to mask the loss in hue at the rims. Highly herbaceous nose with white pepper, salt, grapefruit pith dashes, the chalkiness impure and mixed with metallic minerals, there’s a lean focus in the peach, pear, green apple fruit scents. Medium-bodied, hard contours to it, angular with muscular acidity intent on kicking up a storm inside your mouth. Mineral dust, fried lemon peel and grapefruit first thing noticed, the general intensity level doesn’t allow for much relaxation. As a result, you really can’t take the time to enjoy the pear, peach, apple, star fruit flavors. Minty, flowery finish, nothing settling down. You gain little sense of where it’s going to from here without trading off too much fruit in the process. 88 points
Bond
Napa Valley, California
Vecina
Cabernet Sauvignon
2001
$175.00
14.5%
The deep purple core possesses liveliness while at the same time easily opaque, this contributing to the heavy glow in the brick red to red-ruby rims. The nose is rendered immobile by coffee ice cream, caramel, cocoa dust and vanilla scents, fused to the black currant, black cherry fruit, presents a smattering of mint or eucalyptus, once it gets in your nostrils there’s no budging it. Medium to full-bodied with a dusty, tacky texture, hard to tell if it is from tannin or what. The plum, currant, blackberry fruit feels yanked into the spotlight, crests in the mid-palate and fades swiftly towards the finish. Obvious burnt coffee, dark chocolate, vanilla and toffee crunch oak flavors. Clenches during the middle and never regains flow. Minimal non fruit nor oak aspects. Could use more grace and general clarity among the components. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, etc. 87 points
Tremblay (Domaine des Iles), Gérard
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Fourchaume
Chardonnay
2000
$15.99
13.0%
Only little flecks of green-white left, has mostly deepened into an orange gold hue, pools well in the core yet loses most color at the rims. Pleasing smoky, flinty element to the nose, borderline touch of saline, brawny lemon to white grapefruit citrus component, maybe twiggy or showing some dried leaves, the pear, peach, apple fruit steady as she goes, no flash but there at the end. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with a certain welcome sternness, you know this house isn’t going to blow over in the wind. The acidity comes in dusty sheets rather than laser beam, helps to play up the chalk, limestone, bone flavors. The soft floral touches subsumed in the citrus bite by the mid-palate. At first the pear, apple, apricot fruit may appear attenuated but it’s more so woven into the whole. Contours do soften a smidgeon on the finish which just allows it to grip more. Should hold hereabouts for 2-3 more years. 89 points
Clair, Domaine Françoise & Denis
Burgundy, France
Saint-Aubin
Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Chardonnay
2000
$31.99
13.0%
The strong green tinge to the golden core fights off any more orange-amber hues, yellow stays true through to the rims where the color fully dissipates. Hyper-crisp and edgy oak permeates the nose and sets a steady, rapid beat for the pineapple, pear, nectarine, green apple fruit scents as well as clove spice, fried lemon peels and powdered flowers, dissipates with a spider web’s consistency, seems open until you get stuck in it. Medium to full-bodied, while that zesty oak toast and fried butter frame the attack, at the same time the lemon to white grapefruit citrus spring into action and even the florality seems to have more cut than give. Longlasting apricot, nectarine, pineapple, apple, pear fruit smoothes out the highs and lows. The acidity is above average and may even seem more full of verve given the overall toastiness. Dressed to the nines for a Saturday night out, wouldn’t recognize it on the subway to work Monday morning. 89 points
Otheguy, Stéphane
Rhône, France
Condrieu
Viognier
2005
$47.99
14.0%
Dull and semi-cloudy yellow straw color, what’s there stays there through the rims, hints at enough zinc orange to solidify well. The nose is all cinnamon spiced apple sauce and floral perfume, sticky and clinging, blends in pear, apricot, melon scents as well, zero lift leaves the nostril texture getting creamier and creamier. Full-bodied and somewhat clumsy, plops down on the tongue and looks for the remote. The cinnamon to clove spice and orange blossom adds some energy yet the lack of acidity coupled with the vanilla and pie crust flavorings gets it sinking back into the beanbag chair. No lack of peach, apricot, pear, green melon fruit. A graceless wine that should possess more manners if not coquettish allure. Who wants lifeless Viognier? 85 points
Droin, Jean-Paul
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaudésir
Chardonnay
1999
$35.99
13.0%
Amber hues deepening the golden color, visibly moving into maturity, deep and layered yet the rims still show loss of intensity. Milk and sweet baking spices in the nose detract from the elegance of the flowers and orange citrus while also adding too much roundness to the peach, apricot, yellow apple scents, doesn’t lack for fullness but nothing here evokes terroir. Full-bodied, perhaps even heavy and close to ponderous, the acidity struggles but can’t get things focused and lean. Rose and lilac perfume blends with mint and lemon/orange zest to create an attractive attack but this prematurely sinks into vanilla, white chocolate and butterscotch flavors. Dusty mouth texture saps the juiciness out of the peach, apricot, pineapple, apple fruit. Moderate chalk and white smoke accents towards the end. Too soft and lacking in verve to win you over. 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2001
$40.00
16.5%
The core is more purple than black helping it blend into the dark ruby rims, maybe the slightest suggestion of red bricking at the outer edges. In the nose the caramel and vanilla ice cream swirl dissipates in favor of jammy raspberry, strawberry, blackberry fruit scents, very berry, the eucalyptus and mint appear to have subsided some although there’s still a strong lift and openness before dissolving. Medium-bodied, the gritty, grainy texture is the first thing you notice in the mouth and the first sign of any age. Beyond that there’s still the well-meshed assemblage of vanilla, toffee, herbs, menthol and mint alongside the raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit. The fruit, though, has faded just enough to raise the perceptibility of the alcohol. Finishes with moments of orange peel, leather and brown earth. Comes up a touch short just when you want it to sink in deeper. 89 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$45.00
14.2%
Smooth richness in the purple core, the ruby and magenta clearly separate along the rims, well-saturated there and still youthful. There is a liqueur type of alcohol to the nose yet the juicy raspberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit calms any frayed nerves as does the whipped vanilla cream, caramel and mint, the oak component dominant enough to stunt the florality. Medium-bodied, touch of dill mixed in with the caramel, butterscotch, vanilla pudding oak flavors. Once the oak normalizes in the mouth there’s pretty cedar, tobacco leaf, orange spice and dried flower petal nuances. Moderate loss of raw juiciness in the blackberry, black cherry, blueberry fruit but not unwelcome as this helps the tannic structure give it more oomph. Not 100% matured but in a very nice place and it’s up to the individual palate to decide if waiting for additional tertiary development is worth the potential loss of fruit. A glass or two will leave a dusty coating behind on the tongue. Grapes sourced from the Morisoli Vineyard and Herb Lamb Vineyard. 88 points
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Pouilly-Fuissé
Cuvée des 10 Ans
Chardonnay
2000
$28.50
13.0%
The golden color aged enough to take on light amberish hues, dull on the whole with the rims emptied out. Pure apple sauce nose accompanied by lemon juice and hyper-crisp oak toast, as it settles in the peach, apricot fruit and honey become more evident. Medium-bodied and, yes, it’s oaked out the wazoo but it’s a high-toned crisp toast with butterscotch, toffee and an elevating effect in the lemon/lime citrus. Same apple, peach, apricot, nectarine fruit as in the nose, steady from start to finish. A bit sour or dilly by the mid-palate. Not a lot of stoniness nor terroir but it’s fully in keeping with expectations and, on that score, it’s tasty. Long finish so you better like it if you have more than a sip. 88 points
Hirsch, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Zöbinger
Gaisberg
Alte Reben
Riesling
1998
$31.99
13.0%
Fully matured amber-orange in color, virtually no gold left, the rims show traces of dull yellow, given the darkness of hue fairly transparent, basically looks like a dessert wine. While there’s palpable milk and rubber tones to the nose it’s really built upon the orange and lemon citrus component, arguably more mint than apricot, peach or apple fruit scents, stays open without meandering. Medium-bodied, the acidity has kept its keen edge, here the citrus surprisingly even a bigger presence, gargantuan tangerine, orange, pink grapefruit citrus. The acidity does away with the milkiness but the rubbery notes remain. Not a great deal of stoniness nor minerality but one could be positive and say it leaves more space for the semi-poached apricot, peach, nectarine fruit. On the plateau and has a few years left here. 89 points
Tensley
Santa Barbara County, California
Thompson Vineyard
Syrah
2001
$35.99
13.8%
Despite its inherent darkness a brightness permeates throughout, enlivening the violet core as well as the ruby-magenta rims, doesn’t look a day older than its infancy. Light waft of rubber to the nose, dissolves in favor of pure, tart raspberry, blackberry fruit, mint leaves and stony soil, no real oak presence to speak of. Full-bodied, the grainy texture during the attack belies the power remaining in the tannins, nothing here ground to dust yet. In spite of this, the acidity impels things the most and adds bite to the red cherry, raspberry, more strawberry than blackberry fruit. This also helps frame the florality and orange citrus. Light herbaceous touch blends fully with the mild earthiness. Equally soft touch to the oak toast. All of this brings the fruit to the fore, albeit not in a typical “fruit forward” fashion. Keeps punching through the finish. 91 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Chardonnay
2000
$36.99
13.0%
Basic golden color with little visible sign of aging, good richness and depth as well as penetration through the rims, easily distorts your vision. Powerful florality in the nose, borderline overpowering, if you can adjust and dig deeper there’s mixed apple, peach, apricot fruit of excellent sturdiness and a softer undercurrent of shale, chalk and white pebbles, only a glimmer of honey or citrus. Medium-bodied with consistent heft from attack through the finish. The acidity smoothes things out here and helps to knit the elements together. The mixed wildflowers remains top dog but the lemon to orange citrus, mint and stronger honey get to sit at the table too. More apple than anything, however, fine degree of apricot, peach, nectarine fruit too. The stoniness most evident near the end, seems relegated to a bit role no matter what. Everything is on the same page so even if you could complain about a certain aspect there’s little incentive. Just chug and refill. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2008
Ridge
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Dusi Ranch
Zinfandel
1998
$23.99
14.9%
Almost zero purple left in the core, it’s a blend of red and black now, the red wines out towards the rims with shades of brown and orange too, not throwing much sediment. Perfunctory nose buttered popcorn, butterscotch and vanilla fudge accompanied by mint and juicy raspberry, cherry scents, nothing to really suggest either age or place. Medium-bodied, feels like it had a lot of baby fat now lost. Spicier here with orange to grapefruit zest and oak less intent on bulldozing you, basic vanilla, chocolate, butterscotch stuff. Nothing screams out as being too structured yet there’s enough dustiness past the mid-palate to assume it’s the remnants of the tannins. Pleasing breeze of florality through the finish, pretties up the otherwise thicker plum, cherry, blackberry fruit. Good length on the finish without trying to impress unto tedium. 88 points
Pride Mountain
Sonoma County, California
Cabernet Franc
1999
$52.00
14.1%
The purple core verges on jet black, the wide red-ruby rims deepening into a more crimson shade, little trace, if any, of sediment. The nose has slimmed down into a tighter package of flowers, crushed leaves and a trace of bell pepper alongside the yet formidable currant, cherry, blackberry fruit scents, the oak subsided into a soft cream more than noticeable toastiness. Medium-bodied, somewhat dusty in an irregular fashion which makes it slightly harder for the flowers, orange citrus to consistently pair with the cherry, blackberry fruit, the latter holding on well. The bell pepper gets lost here in favor of leather, stony earthy elements. Tannins can said to be still clawing away but, on the other hand, a good deal must be contributing to that tacky dustiness. Here the oak cream and toast blossoms aggressively, especially towards the finish and as a lingering presence. Doesn’t leave you with the impression more patience will be rewarded. 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot. 88 points
Vieux Donjon, Le
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
1999
$29.99
13.5%
Average concentration in the red-purple core, halfway to opaque, turns over to a bright brick red at the rims, more settles down deeply into the glass than sparkles and shines. Attractive meaty, wooly dimension to the nose, with the earthiness evinces a wine rounding out into its own, the raspberry, red cherry scents not fading as much as becoming part of a larger whole, supported by flower petals and orange peels. Medium-bodied, a bit thinning on the top by the sides still full of hair. The raspberry, cherry, strawberry fruit has much more sweetness during the attack than towards the end. Lemon and orange citrus team up with dried grass, stone and merde notes to add breadth, not quite as gamey here in the mouth. Tannins can clamp down when in the mood, the acidity more consistent, if at a lower level of intensity. Taken as a whole, makes you want to give it a year or two more to develop and that’s it. 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah. 89 points
Knoll, Weingut Emmerich
Wachau, Austria
Loibner
Ried Loibenberg
Smaragd
Riesling
1998
$33.99
13.0%
Orange-amber in color, almost glazed in appearance, subtle filminess but not really deeply layered, more yellow hued rims. No avoiding the milkiness in the nose, that and the lanolin to wax notes betray a wine that has been around the block once or twice, the pineapple, papaya, nectarine, apricot fruit scents retain enough freshness to avoid calcifying concentration, neither especially grassy nor stony but more of the former, holds its weight in the nostrils for a respectable period. Full-bodied, the just average acidity has it shuffling more than gamboling about. Derives most of its activity from the tang in that pineapple, nectarine, papaya, peach, pear fruit as well as a smidgeon of white grapefruit citrus. More of an underlying minerality than stoniness, small granularity. As in the nose, can’t fault the length. Good time to poppy and get sloppy. 88 points
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Chardonnay
1999
$17.99
13.0%
A bronze influence darkening the gold base, still possessing a distinct green tinge as well, shimmers and shudders in the glass just enough to escape transparency, rims hold well. The nose starts off crisp with lemon peel, pebble, chalk and floral dust before succumbing to honey and molasses notes, the apple, pear and peach fruit yet able to stiffen and stay fresh and clean. Medium-bodied with the length to appear fuller, very floral upfront, buttressed by lemon to orange spritz and a suggestion of jalapeño pepper alongside fresh grassiness. The oak treatment here keener and leaner and less determinant. The acidity is able to shape the apple, peach, apricot fruit into a more extended package. Hard to imagine calling it a “terroir-driven” wine but there’s pleasant stoniness from the mid-palate through to the end. In a fine place now, no need to push it further. 89 points
Ravenswood
Sonoma Valley, California
Monte Rosso Vineyard
Zinfandel
1999
$42.99
14.4%
Remarkably clear for the darkness found in the red-purple core, the rims showing as much ruby as brick red, in a transitionary period, surface has perfect shine. Menthol and spice activate the nose, as with the color the fruit scents are trapped between cherry, blackberry and prune, raisin, does betray the presence of alcoholic fumes, there’s an underlying meatiness to it as well. Medium-bodied, expands nicely through the attack with a mentholated lift next to mesquite smoke and molasses sweetness. The tannins feel mostly resolved but there’s no denying the overall dryness as well as the relative shortness of the raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit. Orange spice and ginger make an appearance, at turns almost develops a meadowy grassiness. The oak toast most obvious as afterimages. Starting to forget where it put the keys. 87 points
Spinetta, Azienda Agricola La
Piedmont, Italy
Barbera d’Alba
Vigneto Gallina
Barbera
1998
$39.99
14.0%
Black-purple core, soft of filmy, barely nudges into deep crimson at the rims, remains youthful. The oak in the nose adds to an already volatile experience, rushes of dill, crushed flowers, cocoa as well as some prune, plum, cherry scents, the fruit really dried out and can’t steady the ship. Full-bodied, settles into your mouth like a deep, still puddle after a rainstorm, hints at a lot having happened not long ago but it’s all done now. Flowers, orange citrus, burnt mocha, butter. What plum, cherry fruit left is sour and swift to evacuate. No tannin, the acidity lurches side-to-side. Has kind of caved in on itself, leaving a wake of oak, faded fruit and grass behind. Whoops, that was a mistake. 84 points
Schweiger
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002
$47.99
14.2%
Vivid crimson purple hued core, glows intensely, you barely note the segue to dense red rims, rich color not an issue here. Nose hits you like a road grader, slow and steady with muscular oak toast, eucalyptus, pine and coffee scents, none of this lessens the sheer brunt of the plum, black currant, cherry fruit, full of youthful aggressiveness. Full-bodied, sets its feet widely apart and defies you to move it. The tannins are drying but in no way dusty nor in control of the remote. It’s still the layers of thick currant, cherry, plum fruit that crashes through the palate first, in the wake comes the caramel, coffee, burnt toast accents, stony soil, forest pine and orange zest. There’s a resiny texture that has it clinging to your mouth cheeks. In the end comes across as expressing a good portion of soil and place but still not young to see this gain the upperhand. 90 points
Ridge
Sonoma County, California
Nervo Vineyard
Zinfandel
1997
$19.99
14.7%
The reddish purple core isn’t so dark nor opaque, despite no sign of sediment seems slightly murky, the rims shows some aging in the crimson to garnet hues. Cinnamon, nutmeg and other baking spices fuse with prune, date, raisin notes in the nose to make you want to sniff by the slice, the lift from eucalyptus accents countered by some milky shades, lasts well on momentum not vigor. Medium-bodied, same basic story in the mouth with the fruit reduced to dried fruit flavors of prune, raisin, date and little fresher cherry or plum, yet, lacks the sugariness to avoid fading prematurely. The sweet spices and orange peel have pep upfront, slide later into a chocolate and caramel soup. Tannins fully resolved, contributing to it puttering about past mid-palate. A nice, old Zinfandel with flavor remaining that still should have been popped 3-4 years ago. Mea culpa. 91% Zinfandel, 9% Petite Sirah. 86 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Mendocino County, California
Alder Springs Vineyard
Syrah
2001
$55.00
14.0%
Deep purple bruise of a core with complete opacity, a fair bit of darkness found yet in the red-ruby rims, fully saturated. The nose presents a solid dose of florality and a wide burst of plum, cherry, blackberry fruit but then turns mute and doesn’t offer much else, minimal evidence of tertiary development. Full-bodied, spicier here with ginger, clove notes and zesty grapefruit to orange citrus. Milk chocolate and lesser caramel appear next afterwards it’s basically a fruit fest of the same plum, currant, cherry richness. Not tannic nor acidic but more of the former if pushed for an answer. Doesn’t display much alcoholic heat and strides with decent balance. Some loss of intensity on the finish but not much. The basic problem is too much of the same, can’t help but wish for a broader array of scents and flavors and a touch more nuance. 87 points
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
2000
$27.99
13.0%
Bright sparkles in the glass, the yellow gold hue noticeably deepened which helps to extend through to and fill out the rims. Mint, lemon reduction, hint of flowers in the nose then a swelling of peach, apricot, pear fruit, the oak toast about halved since its youth, still no real minerality to speak of. Medium-bodied, while there’s some acidity it remains flat in the mouth. Appley with supplementary pear, peach flavors, would turn drier if not for the sweet tang in the orange, lemon citrus. Still, dusty without much chalkiness nor stoniness. The oak toast seems about as knit-in as it is going to be. Not showing any strong signs of the dreaded “premature oxidation” but lacks verve and spine. 86 points
Eguren, Dominio de
Toro, Spain
Numanthia
Tempranillo
1999
$34.99
14.5%
The blackness to the core deadens whatever purple may be in there, the blood red shades appear early in the wide rims and brighten appreciably at the outermost limits. Cinnamon, clove, orange spice and dried out oak toast bloom most prominently in the nose, presents a touch of wildflowers as well, there’s a curious muteness to the raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit scents. Full-bodied and bottom-heavy, barely moves across the palate. Powdered violets and lavender provide a little prettiness but the tannins are so grainy and tacky they clog up any open spaces, like pouring a gallon of Elmer’s glue down the sink and trying to get it to drain. Menthol and orange citrus elements in turn try to provide breadth of scope with little success. The same lack of expressiveness in the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit plagues things here too. No tertiary accents of note. Makes it neigh unto impossible to predict where it’s going but the here-and-now isn’t making for free and easy livin’. 85 points
Pride Mountain
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$46.00
14.1%
The Vinous Gods smiled and this bottle pulled from my cellar was corked. Since it is a statistical inevitability that a certain percentage of bottles in my collection will be corked, always a winning situation when one of the bottles is something you were no longer psyched to drink anyway! Sweet.
Not pointed
Nigl, Weingut
Kremstal, Austria
Senftenberger
Hochäcker
Riesling
1998
$42.99
13.0%
While pushing amber, the strong greenish tint keeps it in dark gold territory, overall transparent in a semi-dull way, thinner around the rims. Gentle milkiness in the nose given a short life by the pine, forest breeze, pineapple, nectarine, green apple, apricot and orange marmalade scents, beyond that there’s only a brief appearance by any stony, earthy qualities. Full-bodied, sappy and clingy in texture even if noticeably dry. More floral here in the mouth with elevated white grapefruit to orange citrus alongside chalky dry stones. Unexpected bite in the nectarine, pineapple, pomegranate, apple, peach fruit, this in the form of a short-lived punch likely due to the average acidity. Drinking about right and you feel right drinking it. 89 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
The Other
Petite Sirah
2002
$50.00
15.5%
Jet black in color from the core all the way to the thin ruby-purple hued rims, despite the lack of color there’s a great deal of reflection across the surface. Plum, rum raisin, black currant fruit ably buffered in the nose by cinnamon stick, orange pekoe tea and eucalyptus accents, it’s almost like a 20 pound baked pie resting in your nostrils, only that you could say that the dense chocolate powder makes it more like a cake. Truly medium-bodied even though it feels like you’re chewing on steel beams. Waves of powdery tannin cave away at the slab-like plum, cherry, blackberry fruit, sufficiently spicy that in combo with the orange peel, ginger spice it remains full completely through the finish. Presents a pleasing floral side as well, maintains sufficient openness that a few glasses doesn’t tire you out. 90 points
Cedarville
El Dorado County, California
Sierra Foothills
Syrah
2001
$23.99
14.2%
Moderate depth to the red-purple core, holds strongly through the rims, a touch redder around the rims with no loss of hue intensity. Sour sort of smokiness to the plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit scents, the oak now more toast than creaminess, lessened across the board, some wildflowers and orange blossom then the alcoholic fumes tighten things just before the final moment of dissolve. Medium-bodied with the right amount of tannin to not over-structure the primary material at this stage of its evolution. That said, it comes across as a touch dried out, more tangy reverb than juice in the raspberry, cherry, plum fruit. The spices and mixed citrus come and go. Even the coconut, vanilla bean and toast fallen off some. All this said, has character and sticks to it to the end, regardless of consequences. 87 points
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Estate
Syrah
1997
$27.50
14.6%
Impenetrably black core, you can only see the heavy sediment through the dark blood red rims (although there’s a huge amount of crud on the cork bottom). Big chunks of fried bacon in the nose, met ably by a thick floral dew, there’s less showy molasses and orange spice accents, the raspberry to red cherry scents holding on credibly but not a huge presence. Medium-bodied, nicely gamey with those bacon notes, reaches almost into leathery qualities. The floral dimension remains strong and the orange to white grapefruit citrus elevates pleasingly. Any tannin mostly resolved, its acidity helps to freshen. Ginger, clove spice, err, spice up the sweeter molasses element. As in the nose, the raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit cruises easily but there’s a few threads loose here and there. Leaves a good inner mouth perfume behind through the finish. 88% Syrah, 12% Viognier. 91 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Barbara County, California
Grenache
2003
$38.99
15.2%
Just as much black as purple in the core, a warm crimson hue infuses the rims, fills the glass completely. Fairly explosive nose of floral dew, orange zest and super-juicy raspberry, blackberry scents, only a momentary waft of leather but the scents which are there so gregarious you don’t even waste time looking for tertiary elements. Full-bodied, appears generally inclined towards smoothness but there’s a light gritty film to the tannins which slow it down to a jogging pace. The sweet, candied appeal to the red cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit isn’t cloying nor overpowering. The orange citrus comes with a touch of lemon and melds nicely with the mocha powder notes. Not oaky in the least, mild toastiness gives it some bounce. The florality helps keep the finish openly knit. Straightforward, no mixed messages, just that pure Grenache sap. 91 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Lauterbach Hill Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$45.00
14.5%
While possessing a black colored core not entirely opaque, clean and trim through to the heavy crimson rims. Mesquite smoke and ginger firm up the nose, crams cocoa powder, orange spice and cedar in there and still has room for all the plum, blackberry scents you can sniff, has pared down into a digestible package. Full-bodied, sweet cinnamon, ginger spice pairs up with orange peel and eucalyptus, attacks with more lifting elements and then slowly heads groundward, glued by caramel, molasses, milk chocolate and sure, why not, plum, prune, blackberry, cherry fruit. Not particularly tannic nor acidic. Overall, doesn’t show any tertiary development but still pleasantly juicy and fun. 87 points
Cotat, François
Loire, France
Sancerre
Les Monts Damnés
Cuvée Speciale
Sauvignon Blanc
1996
12.5%
Visibly youthful and fresh, gleaming white to green straw in color, attractive clarity with complete transparency. Fresh “lemon Pledge” nose, hints of beeswax amidst the flowers and apricot, peach, yellow apple fruit scents, lots of focus to the lift, has its course all mapped out. Medium-bodied, there’s an obvious dance between the keen and lively acidity and the sweet botrytis notes, it crackles through the attack and then slowly turns sweeter as the honey, orange, lime and lemon citrus elements settle in. There’s some stoniness to be found but not as much as in a bottling intended to be dry. Lots of mixed apple fruit, leads the peach, apricot notes by a good length. A trace of bitters and grass lend complexity during the finish. Would be extremely difficult to peg as Sancerre blind but a splendid drop nonetheless. 92 points
Reignac, Château de
Bordeaux, France
Bordeaux Supérieur
Spéciale de Reignac
Blend
1998
$17.99
12.5%
Lots of red encroaching on the purple core, the rims formed of burnt red, rust and a touch of orange hues, clean with minimal sediment evident. Burnt oak toast remains the nose’s major component, sour cedar, butterscotch, caramel, this brings out a smoky feel in the raspberry, cherry scents, good density without heaviness, still smells youthful on the whole. Medium-bodied, attractive richness left in the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit flavors, covered with smoke, smoke and more smokiness, especially of the mesquite variety. The tannins have held together but it’s the acidity that keeps it marching on the beat. Cedar, tobacco, stone center it and give hope for deeper tertiary development. All things considered it’s pretty good right now with room for more upside. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. 88 points
Chantemerle (A&F Boudin), Domaine de
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Fourchaume
Chardonnay
2000
$18.99
12.5%
Glassy yellow straw in color, catches the light very well, a greenish tint visible from certain angles. There’s a lurch in the nose from the caramel and honeyed glazed dough notes, the boat slightly righted by green apple, peach fruit, the floral aspect has a liquid dew character which contributes to the overall flatness. Full-bodied, mostly due to the same flatness here in the mouth. It displays adequate acidity and a measurable dose of chalky dustiness yet beyond that it comes across as oxidized with raw dough, bread notes. In addition, the honey, wax and floral concentrate aren’t helping, There’s a good amount of orange, lemon citrus but minimal zest. The apple, peach, nectarine fruit of average concentration and thrust. The bottle is in good shape but the wine lacks nervosity. Gets kind of soupy at the end. 85 points
Failla-Jordan
Edna Valley, California
Alban Vineyard
Viognier
1999
$48.00
14.2%
Has turned to a dark amber color, orange with streaks of yellow, pools deeply but the hue around the rims still drops precipitously. Medicinal nose, creamy with honey, orange peel, custard, dough elements, almost nutty too, this aged long enough that there’s little freshness left, reduced concentration in the apricot, peach, apple scents, no lift but plenty deep. Medium-bodied but falls off a great deal, if there was any perceptible acidity in the past it’s gone now. Some spice, faint florality, more by way of vanilla to caramel accents but even this doesn’t last. On the whole comes across as a drier dessert wine. No inner mouth perfume yet the orange/lemon citrus adds spark to the center. The peach, nectarine, pineapple, apricot fruit sugary without any liquid sweetness to coat your mouth. Acceptable given it should not have lived this long. 86 points
Garretson Wine Company
Regional Blend, California
Central Coast
The Reliquary
Blend
2001
$40.00
14.6%
Burnt orange to bronze trumps most of the deep gold, visibly darkened by age through to the full rims, any surface sheen deflected by the layering below. The nose is like walking into a bakery, all caramel, toffee, vanilla cream, cinnamon, ginger and other baking spices, definite poached quality to the apricot, peach scents, only a few flower petals and nothing else that leaps out at you. Full-bodied, the lack of acidity leaves it corpulently supine. The cinnamon, ginger spice supported by some lemon peel but there’s insufficient spiciness to kick start the dried fruit in feel apricot, peach, nectarine, apple fruit. The fruit, however, has density enough to keep the caramel, toffee, vanilla pudding at bay. As in the nose nothing else to say. It’s OK if you like the syrup left over in the can. 50% Roussanne (Stolpman/Westerly Vineyards), 25% Marsanne (Rozet Vineyard), 25% Viognier (Vogelzang Vineyard). (Synthetic cork) 85 points
Tribut, Laurent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Côte de Léchet
Chardonnay
2000
$24.99
13.0%
The green-gold hue mildly deepened by age, the rims still crystal clear and transparent, layers nicely in the glass. Sweet lemon pulp, wet flowers, mint set up a very pretty nose, almost all coy smiles, the pear, apple, apricot fruit not evanescent but light and flighty. Light to medium-bodied, certainly front loaded in that the textural weight as well as the mineral, flint, stone notes evacuate by the finish. Same might be said for the fruit, it truly tastes like white Welch’s grape juice before developing a little apricot, pear flavors. The acidity loses its edge by the mid-palate too, extending this effect. The floral attributes as well as lemon citrus might last the longest, yet it still ends on a semi-bitter note. All this said, it hangs together OK, just needs a few more spoonfuls of all the ingredients. Not showing any signs of oxidation or the like. 87 points
Ravenswood
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Mountain
Pickberry Vineyards
Blend
1997
$45.99
14.9%
While still mainly purple, enough blackness in the core to ensure opacity and then some, the rims remain bright scarlet with barely a sign of bricking or hue loss. Plush nose of plum, cherry, blackberry fruit, dewy flowers, cocoa and then something like iodine or sea salt, lifts on a steady eucalyptus breeze, some orange juice notes but not a great deal of earthiness in this showing. Full-bodied, soft but not wimpy, more so a situation of the tannins softening sufficiently to ensure that the juiciness in the blackberry, black cherry, plum fruit gets through. Lots of milk chocolate, mint, coffee bean without appearing especially oaky, fits together as a whole. There’s a light brush of bell pepper and orange peel, mixed sweet spices too. More satisfying the less you think about it, just go with the flow. 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc. 90 points
Saint Innocent
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Anden Vineyard
Dijon Clone
Chardonnay
2004
$21.99
13.8%
Presents a very rich golden hue, complete with a greenish copper tint, good bit of distortion of light below the surface. While the nose is not especially toasty nor creamy it can’t shake the cloak of oak, maybe it’s a certain leesy quality, then mint, floral water and orange blossom, the apricot, peach, apple fruit scents more fresh than deep. Medium-bodied, insistently pushes outwards while also clinging to your tongue’s pores. Spicy at first, this turns into a kind of deadening powdery texture after some time. More orange, lemon citrus here, not keen enough for lime accents. Fuller center to the peach, apricot, pear fruit here, fills in the overall texture with some flavor. Streamwater and stones imbue it with a non-fruit element, however, the whole show mostly over by the finish. Acidity in line with what you’d expect, maybe even a tick stronger than that. In no way flawed nor unpleasant but just the same forgettable. 86 points
Cornerstone
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Cornerstone Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$79.99
15.6%
While still mainly purple, the core possesses sufficient blackness to repel any light trying to get through, thin but brooding crimson rims retain a palpable violet cast. The alcohol creates a lifting sensation in the nose, making it top-heavy and emphasizing menthol, cedar and pressed flowers over red cherry, raspberry fruit, beyond that still strikes you as primary and without much earthiness nor the like. Full-bodied, sticky unto jammy feel in the blackberry, cherry, raspberry fruit but this texture doesn’t last past the mid-palate and this is not due to any high level of tannins. That said, dry enough and not devoid of structure. But, as in the nose, the alcohol detracts and there’s insufficient complexity by way of cedar, leather, orange peel or mountain scrub to fill in the spaces. By no stretch a “bad” wine but certainly overthought and lacking in hands-off shepherding. 87 points
Muga, Bodegas
Rioja, Spain
Torre Muga
Blend
1996
$59.99
13.5%
Black to orange red hued core, almost forbidding in appearance, clean but easily opaque, the rims present a vivid burnt crimson cast with an orange tinge. The leathery and earthy qualities all but equal to the prune and semi-roasted plum, cherry, blackberry scents in the nose, more general smokiness than oak toast too, sufficiently raw in texture to inhibit the cedar and flower notes, persists well but somewhat tires you out. Medium to full-bodied, feels slimmed down and more swiftly paced for it. Very spicy and tangy, all iron flecks, cedar, grill fat, orange peel and medicinal menthol rub before the same smoky sourness pushes the raspberry, red cherry fruit to the forefront. Less prune here as there’s a good deal of acidity bubbling up throughout but not absent either. The sourness extends through the oak and sort of dampens it, less toastiness. Satisfactory minerality and lemon/orange citrus bite. Not what could be called “old school” but has settled down into something that deservedly can be labeled as Rioja. Which was not the thought in mind when the bottle was pulled. 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 10% Graciano. 89 points
Yarra Yering
Victoria, Australia
Yarra Valley
Underhill
Shiraz
1990
$69.99
13.5%
The purple in the core mostly transformed into a mixture of black, red and orange hues, the rims are a strong garnet, mostly clear if you can strain out the good deal of sediment. There’s a big medicinal, witch hazel component to the nose, air dried game and grill fat, tar, asphalt and dried flowers all play large roles as well, great swirling activity, the red cherry, cranberry, raspberry scents concentrated yet easy to overlook. Medium-bodied, curiously the dryness provided by the tannins bring the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit to the fore, holds off the gaminess and leathery qualities until the mid-palate. Higher level of mixed white citrus, lower level of florality. Earthen stone and tar level it out through the finish. Pleasing tangy snap as it ends, no heat nor oakiness. 90 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2001
$40.00
16.5%
Still displaying a fairly youthful red-purple core with good clarity, excellent saturation in the red-magenta rims. The blackberry, raspberry scents in the nose have built up sufficient raisin to prune notes to sink in well, cinnamon, pine and dried oranges on display, hard to tell if its cleansing texture comes from the burst of mountain air or alcohol content. Medium-bodied, has slimmed down if not necessarily firmed up, neither tannic nor acidic but dry and slow to move. The element of dates and raisins pleasingly adds richness to the foundation of cherry, raspberry fruit. Vanilla and chocolate ice cream swirl contributes to filling the center. Cinnamon, ginger and orange spice doled out in small doses. Drinking nicely yet this bottle shows evidence of the decline of the empire. 88 points
Nigl, Weingut
Kremstal, Austria
Senftenberger
Piri
Privat
Riesling
1998
$24.99
13.0%
Without being especially shiny, not quite dull either, the golden base has darkened a few ticks into more green than amber. Pine, milk, cough syrup and white grapefruit frame the nose, filled in mostly with pineapple, apricot, pear fruit, while mildly smoky not particularly stony nor minerally. Medium-bodied, the acidity makes an attempt at firming it up but roundness prevails. Milky with a degree of concentration in the pineapple, peach, nectarine, green apple fruit, albeit this not lengthening things. Pine and menthol are again present, much more floral here as well. It’s holding on but getting blurry and likely on the back end of its best drinking window. 87 points
Failla-Jordan
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
1998
$48.00
13.2%
As much blackened brick red in the core as purple, turns to a flatter rim along the rims, has taken on some age visually. Some rubbery notes at first in the nose, these blow off in favor of mesquite grill fat, molasses, salt and dried oranges, the red currant, cherry scents taut but not lean, persist well and remain proportionate to the whole. Medium-bodied, the acidity still going strong and scrubs your tongue down to a smooth surface. Orange to lemon zest, dried flowers, dried grass and stones more prevalent than fruit, here the cherry, raspberry, red currant flavors are semi-faded. Still has that grill smoke sweetness and tang without being overtly oaky. Beef blood, iodine and lower degree of leather keep it inching forward towards the finish. Well-balanced and still fresh, if your preference is for this rather than big upfront fruit it’s polished enough to sip quite a bit. 89 points
Failla-Jordan
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$48.00
13.2%
Purple reigns but being leeched by brick red hues, particularly nearing the fully crimson rims, here the merest touch of orange evident. Caramel, molasses and honey press the nose as close to oakiness as possible without getting there, orange spice and a waft of flowers keep it friendlier than regal, the smokiness pervades the cherry, blackberry fruit scents giving them lift while keeping good density. Medium-bodied, firm with sufficient pliancy so as to not wear out the palate, the acidity gets support from the tannins, the latter deadening some pain caused by the former. Lots of orange, lemon and white grapefruit citrus, makes for a lively mouth entry. If not for all this, there just might be a mild prune touch to the cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit. More stone and earth than herbaceousness, can’t call it “round” but it does fill up the mouth well and sets without any chance of it moving. Emphasizes minerality more than game or olives. In a good place now, no sense on waiting further. 90 points
Failla-Jordan
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$48.00
13.6%
The brick red and purple mix in the core to bring almost a brown hue out, more standard dark crimson at the rims, some sheen left on the surface. The nose is on the mute side, airy in some ways, sulfur-like notes initially then charred beef fat and vanilla powder, not too sweet, the cherry to raspberry fruit steady in a lowkey manner, takes awhile for the florality to get cranking. Medium-bodied plus, makes a nice big push into the mouth, framed equally by tannins and acidity. Comprised mostly of leather, white grapefruit to orange citrus and tarry earth, there’s a cough syrup concentration found in the cherry, raspberry flavors. Flirts with sweetness here too, stays high and dry and shortens a length as a result. Given its broad shoulders you might want a little more flesh in the mid-carriage. Pleasing mentholated, piney lift through the finish. 88 points
Guigal, E.
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Côte Brune La Turque
Syrah
1997
$289.99
12.5%
There’s a pool of blackness in the core which turns it to opacity, the rims moderately full brick red, visible sediment bits throughout. Not the most expressive nose ever, caramel and butterscotch pair with plum to prune, blackberry scents, abundant cinnamon spice, the stonier parts hold off until it almost dissolves before showing. Full-bodied, different story in the mouth, much more active and boisterous. This led by gargantuan oakiness, toasty coconut, butterscotch, toffee all over the place. Any gamey qualities overshadowed by orange zest and meadow grasses. The cherry, blackberry, plum fruit offers more weight than juiciness, past the mid-palate steamrolled by stones, iron chunks and brown earth. Sappy enough to cling in a textural fashion but once you get the past the very expensive oak it’s hard to say what separates it from the pack, not especially evocative of a “place” even if generally tasty. Includes approximately 5-7% Viognier. 88 points
Bize, Simon & Fils
Burgundy, France
Savigny-Les-Beaune
Les Marconnets
Pinot Noir
1996
$39.99
12.5%
Faded purple-red core, transparent on the whole, presents a muted mixture of red, brown, yellow and orange through to rims, a pile of autumnal leaves. There’s a medicinal quality to the nose which plays up dried flowers, camphor and pine cones, with time a mushroomy, forest floor earthiness spreads through your nostrils, the cherry to blackberry scents somewhat muddled. Light to medium-bodied, relaxed now but close to reaching “drying out” proportions. The initial sweetness in the raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit falls prey prematurely to herbaceousness and stones. Buttressed some by lemon citrus, pine but hollows out past the mid-palate. Sluggish pulse of acidity does get whatever is there moving forward. The assorted elements are there, or better were there, a disappointing showing. 84 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2008
Gros, Domaine Anne
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
La Combe d’Orveau
Pinot Noir
2001
$42.99
13.0%
Moderate purple shades, much more red garnet in hue with consistency through to the rims where there’s a slight burnt orange edge. Candied feel to the nose, from the cherry, raspberry fruit through to the lemon citrus, gentle grassy notes dissolve before more rugged stoniness and poor, dried earth, not especially long but since it never gets over a whisper who can really tell? Medium-bodied, hard and tannic in the mouth, requires some patience before it starts to open up. Similar hard candy feel in the cherry, raspberry, strawberry feel starts out well and then you suck it into nothingness. Even more stones and minerals, if a relative lack of fruit doesn’t bother you there’s terroir and then some. Simple lemon citrus, just a brush of dried flowers and really little else. One could argue for it’s being shut down but rhetorical skills would be required. 87 points
Pride Mountain
Sonoma County, California
Sangiovese
2002
$55.00
14.8%
Any black purple pales literally before the bright crimson to black red hues, rims credibly strong of hue. Outrageous popcorn, hot butter, caramel, mint explode through the nose, touch of leather and orange reduction, rich but not heavy raspberry, red cherry scents. Medium-bodied, like heavy cream in both flavor and texture, comes up with both chocolate and vanilla accents in addition to toasted white bread, caramel. Then, somehow, the acidity comes through to release some leather, candied cherry and raspberry liqueur. Mint, sweet garden herbs and anise normalize the finish, enjoyable enough when taken at face value. Still, “someone put their chocolate in my Sangiovese.” 500 ml bottle. 85 points
Brunel, Domaine André
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Les Cailloux
Blend
1998
$25.99
14.0%
Brown, black and red mix through the core as much as any purple shades, moving outwards it turns towards brick red and then a yellowish orange, there’s a healthy sediment film throughout even after standing up for a day. Fruit-driven nose of candied strawberry, raspberry, watermelon, red cherry scents, almost equal to this, though, is a distinct grassiness, also finds the time to offer stones, orange peels and a vague pinch of dried flowers. Medium to full-bodied, as sweet and exuberant as the raspberry, kirsch, blackberry, cherry fruit is, you pretty much know from the first sip the cork was pulled too early, the tannin still clamping down and it sleepily refuses to stretch out of its fetal position. Black licorice, flowers, orange and lemon citrus, tea leaves, there’s a great deal of stuffing despite its relative inability to strut it onto the stage. The herbaceousness is present here as well, if overshadowed in good part by the rest. There’s some turbulence through the finish which time ought to resolve. Likable today but best to hold off. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, etc. 89 points
Cotat, Madame Paul
Loire, France
Sancerre
Les Culs de Beaujeu
Sauvignon Blanc
1995
13.0%
Clear and transparent, most of the green-yellow straw color accrues around the rims while viewed at an angle, the core lightly hued when peered at straight-on. Hyper-friendly nose of fresh flowers, mint, white stones and chalk and semi-dried in a cool basement golden apple, pear, peach fruit scents, recognizably older but not aged per se. In the mouth it’s full-bodied with a fine sandpaper smoothness, doesn’t grip as much as hug the curves as it drives through your mouth. Golden honey, mint, lemon reduction soften and sweeten the attack while the acidity perks up the apple, pear, nectarine, peach fruit through the mid-palate. Pink grapefruit, orange and lemon citrus juicy enough to keep the sweetness alive. The thing is, the most noticeable flavors are sweet but, stepping back and taking it as a whole, “sweet” isn’t the word you’d use to describe it. Baked bread and honey are there but it keeps cutting away at your tongue, even as any stone and mineral aspects stay a step back. Has to be taken as a whole, and on that score it kicks ass royally. 92 points
Remírez de Ganuza, Bodegas Fernando
Rioja, Spain
Reserva
Tempranillo
1994
$68.99
14.5%
Very clear, tiny amount of violet in the core, more so brick red, by the rims there’s a resonant vermilion to orange aura warmly glowing. Wet cedar, herbs, orange peel percolate in the nose, there’s a certain mute quality to the cherry, red raspberry scents, more sour than full. Light to medium-bodied, more refreshing for its lighter body as well as relatively high acidity. Here the raspberry, cherry fruit super-sour but, again, better for it. Lots of grass and herbs, less cedar and orange citrus. Showing more age than expected but not shot, only truly glaring flaw might be the short finish, however, this not necessarily attributable to age per se. Nice but hasn’t held up as one might expect. 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano. 87 points
Engel, Domaine René
Burgundy, France
Grands-Échezeaux
Pinot Noir
1993
$75.00
13.5%
Crystal clear, what once was ruby-violet now more scarlet with a strong orange coloration, especially around the rims. Beautiful spice-laden nose furnished with sweet garden herbs, orange peel, mushroom, rose petals and smoky cherry, raspberry scents which all together form a thick lift inside your nostrils. Medium-bodied, stays close-woven throughout, aided by still powerful tannins and, after all, most steel beams are balanced. Hard candy feel in the cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit brightens the attack before getting earthier and stonier. The lemon to almost white grapefruit citrus pairs well with those stony qualities. Tea leaf, tar, herbs present and accounted for, more frugal florality. Excellent chewiness through the finish. Still can wait on it if you want. 91 points
Angerville, Domaine Marquis d’
Burgundy, France
Volnay
Taillepieds
Pinot Noir
1990
13.5%
Mild filminess through the semi-purple core, really there’s a whole lot more crimson to orange zinc hues, the rims lighten a notch or two. The nose is rife with barnyard funk, merde, wet hay, then licorice, rosemary, thyme, pine, raisins and dates as present as cherry and blackberry sap, billows in your nostrils as if from smokestacks. Full-bodied, layered in think slabs upon your tongue, spicy and very vibrant in spite of its voluminous weight. The potpourri musk builds as it progresses, brings with it roasted lemon peel and wet grasses, cocoa powder too. The cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit zings and zaps, pushing through to near the end when raisin and prune notes show. Kicks hard across the finish line, may not be the most delineated wine but one helluva mix of elements. 91 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$40.00
14.2%
Very clear, as if lightening, the purple in the core shifts into burnt crimson and further out orange tones, there is an extremely fine sediment despite the overall clarity. Cedar and dried cloves most noticeable in the nose, orange blossom, light dark chocolate add dimension, the plum, cherry scents soft but linger decently. Medium to full-bodied, very pleasing body up front in the cherry, blackberry fruit, as this trails off the spaces filled in by black licorice, cedar, orange spice, mint and chocolate, no overt oakiness. The tannins subsided without adding much dustiness to the overall texture. Relaxed and composed enough that you don’t mind its relative shortness. Easy to pour another glass. 89 points
Lagrange, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1998
$35.99
13.0%
Black to dark blood red as present in the core as purple, the crimson stained rims remain deep and hint at developing an orange tint. The florality in the nose somewhat muted by the coconut and buttered popcorn oak element, displays a decent degree of leatheriness and minerally damp earthiness, the cherry and plum scents plump and linger well. Full-bodied, here has stayed well-fruited too, little attenuation in the currant, cherry, plum flavors. The tannins have kick, maybe reduced slightly to a more grainy texture. The oak toast noticeable, if less so than in the nose. Blends in tobacco ash and dried leaves, less out-and-out earthiness. The dried flowers and orange peel appear mainly as fumes through the finish. More solid and sturdy than spectacular, could use another 3-5 years asleep to integrate the oak and soften the tannin. 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Mondavi, Robert
Napa Valley, California
Reserve
Pinot Noir
1980
Price Unknown
13.8%
As much brown-orange in the core as purple, very much brown to red brick rims, filmy throughout. Medicinal, matted and damp forest floor matter in the nose, the fruit very pruney and raisiny, less fresh cherry, some muted licorice and orange peel still floating about, dissolves in a dispersed cloud. Medium-bodied, while it still shows that prune edge here, the cherry and blackberry fruit a bit fresher and doesn’t at all appear dried out. Eucalyptus, mint, orange pekoe tea and incense flavors provide most of the interesting nuances, beyond that it’s merde and damp earth. The acidity is light while the tannins appear to have held up better than the former. Nothing to write home about here but arguably much better than might have been expected and eminently drinkable. 86 points
Lagrange, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Les Fiefs de Lagrange
Blend
2000
$13.75
13.0%
Dark purple core without getting to blackness per se, not a great deal of sediment being thrown, the rims evenly split between ruby and red brick. The nose gives up oak toast which is turning the kindling embers, leather and tar, a certain faded florality and succinct cherry, blackberry fruit scents, as tight as the cellophane on a new CD. Medium-bodied, in spite of the tannic grit more expressive here with curious olive pit notes intermingled with the merde, cowhide and matted straw accents. The floral dimension speaks more clearly and, as a result, there’s also added prettiness in the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit. The oak toast only noticeable if you’re truly looking for it, otherwise plays it cool. A perfectly fine luncheon claret, difficult to assess if it is still closed up some or lacks significant upside. In any event, the price was right. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. Second label of Château Lagrange. 87 points
Billecart-Salmon
Champagne, France
Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart Brut
Chardonnay
1996
$129.99
12.0%
Fine golden color, not quite yet touched by amber, the tiny bubbles are diffuse yet active, pools fully along the sides of the glass on the surface. The nose presents a crisp and succinct toastiness, orange to lime citrus, precise apple, pear and peach fruit scents and an underlying suggestion of stone powder and chalk. Full-bodied, the pétillance refreshes and scrubs. Has pinpoint accuracy with its oak toastiness, present at the beginning of each sip yet resolved before you swallow. Focused green apple, pear, peach fruit retains some youthful hardness yet possesses a great deal of length. The lime citrus element bites adds to the overall cleanliness, perhaps bringing a tart burst to the finish. Full mouth presence and weight to the very end, a sure sign of its seriousness and regal breeding. All this said, most likely a good 5-10 years away from its best drinking window. 93 points
Kalin Cellars
Livermore Valley, California
Sémillon
1995
$32.99
13.5%
Dull, faded sort of transparency, like old worn gold with a green tinge, due to the overall lack of visual vibrancy the rims show minimal loss. Butterscotch, orange marmalade, beeswax and a brush of cut grass make up most of the nose, the apricot, peach, pear fruit seems semi-paled, lasts well in spite of this. Medium-bodied, sticky texture adds to its heft. More waxy here, lots of orange and lemon essence and flowers. The caramel and butterscotch accents lessened by the acidity, even if they remain noticeable throughout. The pear, apple, peach, apricot fruit steady, if unspectacular, activated by a sweet spiciness. It’s intriguing for its textures as much as flavors, starting to reach the end of its best drinking window. 75% Sémillon, 25% Sauvignon Blanc. 89 points
Baumard, Domaine des
Loire, France
Quarts de Chaume
Chenin Blanc
1995
$22.49
13.5%
Vibrant orange amber color, richly pools downwards, the rime barely drop to a yellow tinged ochre. In the nose the milkiness remains light and surpassed with ease by the orange marmalade and lemon peel aspects, very youthful fresh honey component, plenty of non-cloyingly concentrated peach, apricot, pear fruit scents, dissolves with a suggestion of mint. Medium-bodied, however, solidifies even as it progresses through the mid-palate. More cinnamon to ginger spice as well as flowers and beeswax here, the acidity kicks hard enough to underscore the tangerine, lemon, grapefruit citrus element. Due to the foregoing, the honeyed notes recede a step back. Dried fruit density in the apricot, peach, nectarine, pineapple flavors, cling to your mouth pores for dear life. While so enjoyable now, barely entering its proper drinking window. 375 ml bottle. 93 points
Allegrini
Veneto, Italy
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Superiore
Blend
1995
$58.99
15.0%
Enough black in the purple core to take it into opacity, there’s a watery brick red quality to the rims, plenty of depth and only some sign of aging. Heavy, cloying nose of grapey plum, cherry fruit that barely makes room for the cinnamon, ginger spice and orange peel, very light dark chocolate notes, it remains pretty much inert even with air time. Full-bodied, strides with wide, aggressive steps, if at times clumsily. No real acidity but the tannins manage a vague structuring netting, keeps it semi-dry. Cinnamon, orange dripped over plum, cherry, blackberry fruit keeps the message simple and direct. Some florality but very little trace of any oaky creaminess. Sweet tea leaf and tobacco echo through the back half. In the end it does not come across as evolved yet perhaps by now it should be hinting at that moment of delivery. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella. 88 points
Clivi de Ferdinando Zanusso, I
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Corni di Rosazzo Galea
Blend
2001
$13.99
13.0%
Its zinc to orange color makes it appear older than it truly is, moderate loss at the rims hidden by the general translucent layering. Nothing really stands out in the nose, more so a quiet orchestration of mineral water, orange blossom, mint, peach and apricot fuzz, has enough weight to hover pregnantly in your nostrils. Full-bodied, displays the same richness and solidity as found in the nose along with similar direct and succinct flavors. Most active might be the orange to lemon citrus, followed on by a grazing blow of grass and garden herbs and then wildflowers, The peach, apricot, nectarine fruit in no way sweet yet a patina of honey helps it avoid true dryness. The acidity level is perfectly acceptable. Tightens well through the finish but does not especially cohere. Unspecified percentages of Tocai Friulano, Verduzzo. 86 points
Failla
Russian River Valley, California
Keefer Ranch
Pinot Noir
2001
$38.00
14.2%
Has the sort of cloudiness which suggests little or no filtration, most garnet to brick red than purple, even at the core, rims fading some. Pungent nose of flowers, lemon peel, ground flower petals and cinnamon stick, enough so to push the yet ripe cherry, raspberry fruit scents back a stride or two, not yet presenting any earthiness nor other tertiary aromas. Full-bodied, sappy enough to stick to the walls of your mouth but shakes off the fat soon enough to gain a swifter pacing. Lots of cola, licorice, lemon drop and cinnamon flavors, spicy given the weight still found in the raspberry, red cherry, blackberry fruit. Finishes more with a hard candy sort of sweetness, not sugary per se. Minimal acidity or tannins but not flaccid. Much less ponderous than in its youth, more sheer fun.
90 points
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