Older Wines Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in December 2006
Billecart-Salmon
Champagne, France
Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut
Chardonnay
NV
$64.99
12.0%
Pale white straw in color, would need to be darker to show more green tint, super small bubbles gathered in a few big beads, foam lasts well across the surface. Crisp toast focuses the nose, on point tart lemon-lime peel and sour green apple, pear, peach scents, lots of mineral powder, notably linear presentation. Medium-bodied, erect and equally focused in the mouth, every aspect fused to the mineral, stone component. The dustiness pervades the pear, green apple, apricot fruit, keeps it dry and bright. The lemon/lime citrus appears as if club soda or mineral water. The toast less prevalent and certainly no honey nor brown sugar notes. Strong acidity plays the leading role throughout. Big and almost brooding at times. (25805A) 89 points
Reverie
Napa Valley, California
Diamond Mountain
Special Reserve
Blend
1995
$75.00
13.5%
Despite the high degree of surface reflectivity, the color shows a maturing wine, scarlet red infusing the purple core and dominating the rims with even a soft ochre tint. There’s wonderfully gossamer fine florality throughout the nose, nudges the mint, eucalyptus and orange zest further to center stage, the earthiness has a mountainous roughness to it, no wetness, the oak has dropped many notches to a steady, smoothing presence, the currant, cherry fruit scents guileless and gain penetrating power for it. Full-bodied, its big, big bottom handled well on the whole but it’s no swan-like ballerina either. More like a middle linebacker blitzing up the middle of your tongue. Here you receive added leather, cedar, earth, tobacco qualities, this without snuffing out the nice florality and lemon drop. The eucalyptus does lose some presence but, hey, so does the oak toast. The tannins have firm determination but no mean spirit. The black currant, Italian plum, black cherry fruit going strong, no fear of it fading. Its muscularity may impair some of its clarity but sometimes you want the stick and not the carrot. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petite Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 92 points
Bouchard Père & Fils
Burgundy, France
Beaune
Clos de la Mousse
Pinot Noir
1996
$39.99
13.0%
Trim and spotless red-violet core, turns successively redder nearer the rims until becomes orange at the very outer edge. Earthy stink at first in the nose, merde, wet grasses, muted dewy flowers and herbs, however the real thick plum cherry fruit scents come close to prune and fill your nostrils up, more roasted than smoky in a minerally way, stays full through an extended dissolve. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity has an amazing piercing quality, sorely needed to take a lot of the excess sweetness out of the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit, still it retains a dried fruit edge. The lemon, orange, white grapefruit citrus plays a big part here too. The minerality has a hard time finding its voice. Grassy yet not incredibly herbaceous on the whole. Moreover, not stinky here nor especially merde-like, albeit not “pure” either. Chunky love. 88 points
Rosemount
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
GSM
Blend
1998
$19.99
14.5%
Not a lot of purple in the core, more so red-garnet to crimson, much more pure red at the rims with an orange edge. There’s something weirdly medicinal in the nose, stops any flow or movement, lots of creamy oak to be had, mint, cola, toffee without much aged development, leaving the stage to the blueberry, blackberry, cherry fruit scents, overall not especially inclined to stick around long. Medium-bodied, angular, if not hard-edged, tannic and empty attack without suppleness nor generosity. Tacky texture, slaps the tongue as much as soaks into it. The vanilla oak, toast, butter flavors more prominent due to the paucity of blueberry, blackberry, raspberry fruit. Suggestions of mint, orange peel, floral dust, nothing truly tertiary to note. Short finish, again gone in a poof. There’s not a sufficient number of elements to raise the question of future integration. All this said, does possess alcoholic content. 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. 85 points
Arrowood
Russian River Valley, California
Saralee’s Vineyard
Syrah
1997
$55.00
14.2%
Some purple remains in the core but it’s mostly scarlet to brick red, even more red along the rims with a big orange tinge, the sediment is chunky so it’s clear on the whole. Vanilla powder, spice and cedar are all that’s left of the oak in the nose, serves up palpable game, leather, animal fur, mineral and merde touches, cloaks the smoky cherry, black currant scents, a real slugger and resists dissolving. Full-bodied, as in the nose the vanillin oak most apparent early on with that cedar, ginger spice thing, adds in pine sap, maple syrup tones. More spiced ham than wild animal but meaty nonetheless. The tannins have been mostly ground yet it’s not super-smooth, the better for it. Adequate plus length in the cherry, red currant, blackberry, persimmon fruit. The finish is woven closely, not truncated. Near the end of its plateau. 88 points
Schweiger
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$53.99
13.8%
Fully opaque black core, as color appears further out it’s as much crimson red as purple, full brick red at the rims, good depth but little liveliness. The nose remains stuffed densely with black licorice, dried flowers, olive pit, bell pepper and wet saddle leather first things you notice, smoky but very little to suggest oak, the red and black currant, cherry fruit long, if compact and with no wasted movement. Full-bodied, given its size and forward momentum, stays balanced and with nary a hiccup to question its integration. Here you get more by way of olive pit, earth, pencil lead and minerals with a solid second place represented by the bell pepper, grass, cedar and orange zest. Slightly more noticeable oak toast. The tannins have dissolved some but remain at the helm, an intentionally tannic wine to its last. The roast in the cherry, currant, plum fruit not of a dried fruit nature, lends freshness. Hard to peg what it’s missing. 93 points
Lapostolle, Casa
Casablanca Valley, Chile
Atalayas Vineyard
Cuvée Alexandre
Chardonnay
2004
$16.99
13.9%
Deep golden color with a thick semi-translucent shimmer, unblemished, does fall off at the rims. Big, sugary nose of bubblegum, cotton candy, butter toffee as well as mint and flowers, as confectionary as it is it does not express a lot of pear, peach, apple fruit scents. Full-bodied attack but the weight drops off quite a bit as it progresses. Not much acidity yet the initial sweetness too falls off swiftly, the pineapple, nectarine, apricot, pear fruit candied to poached, if evanescent. Hits you with more cotton candy, brown sugar, lime zest with a soft toastiness. The florality is not a big part but lasts longer than the other elements. Bitter almond notes on the finish. Not fully over the top, actually would benefit from just yielding to its sweetness and forgetting attempts at structure. 86 points
Dal Forno, Romano
Veneto, Italy
Valpolicella Superiore
Blend
1994
$45.99
13.5%
Black to blood red hues penetrate the purple core, darkening it like a stain, more brick red around the rims with a hint of ochre, clean and reflective surface while dusky beneath. Medicinal nose of witch hazel, smelling salts, thyme, sage, game fat, there’s a softening glance of oak vanilla, provides an entry point for the prune, black cherry, blackberry scents which might otherwise have been lost. In the mouth it’s much more full-bodied and exuberant, while the tannins have turned dusty, they lack the power to restrain the thrust of the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit, at times suggesting dried fruit concentration while remaining fluid. Lots of herbal twists, garden fresh sage, fennel and basil notes. Minerally as well, lower gaminess than in the nose. Orange-infused dark chocolate past the mid-palate. Integrated, but not to the detriment of swagger. Evolves from sip to sip. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella. 93 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Mendocino County, California
Alder Springs Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$55.00
14.8%
Dusky red-purple color, not really cloudy nor showing sediment, heavy crimson rims still fully saturated. The nose remains mostly full of plum, black cherry fruit and musky perfume, mint and pine cone as well, has mustered a minority opinion of broken stone, minerals but no real gamey qualities, has lowkey baked caramel and vanilla accents knit-in. Medium-bodied, stays smooth with solid contours and has shed any heaviness which might impede its flow. Some grit in the tannins, gives a dimpled grip to the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit. Menthol, tobacco leaf, mountain stone, mint orange blossom elements are up and in front of any oak spice or toffee flavors. Concentrated enough to make integration less of a pressing issue. Finish is compact and semi-terse. Seems stuck where it is. 88 points
Kanonkop
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Pinotage
1998
$24.99
13.5%
The purple core comes with a steady crimson streak, full ruby-red rims, quite youthful in appearance, unblemished. Intensely penetrating nose of merde, leather, game, black earth, pipe smoke, still displaying richness in the plum, black currant fruit scents, puts a stranglehold on your nostrils and doesn’t let go. Medium to full-bodied, immediately hits you with savage force. While the tannins and acidity have brawn to spare, they are not the culprit here, instead it’s the rawhide, wet fur, minerally earth, blood iron, rubber and dried herbs which hit you with the brass knuckles. Very smoky and tarry, makes your mouth feel like an oven at 500 degrees. That said, no alcoholic heat and there’s an abiding suppleness to the red currant, cherry, plum fruit amidst it all. No premature falloff on the finish. Couldn’t drink it every day, and certainly not for some palates, but an exquisite example of its type. 90 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
1998
$38.00
16.0%
Slight filminess adds to the effulgence of the crimson-purple core, mostly consistent through the rims, much redder with slight orange tones. The nose is shriveling naturally into a jammy concentration, the freshness of the raspberry, blackberry scents replaced by sugariness, mixes in swirls of milk chocolate, mint, orange marmalade, cinnamon and at times a faint meatiness. Full-bodied, has sunk plushly into itself, enjoys the dinner table more than the gym. The acidity pokes through enough to take the cloying edge off the sugariness in the cherry, prune, blackberry, date fruit as well as keep the pacing up. More lemony in the citrus department, perhaps aided by the eucalyptus flavors, the milk chocolate, vanilla, baking spices remind you the oak is there but lack the aggression of youth. Perhaps herbaceous, but in the forest breeze way. Solid finish, no blockbuster but not over the hill either. That said, drink up. 90 points
McCrea Cellars
Yakima Valley, Washington
Boushey Grande Côte Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$40.00
14.5%
Fully opaque black purple core, sucks the light in like a sponge, drops off just enough to saturated brick red at the rims to actually even have that much color, flat, little gloss. The scents must have looked down at the glass and decided to mimic the color because the nose is just as impenetrable, the jammy plum, currant, black cherry scents pressed against each over to a vanishing point, waft of flowers, orange peel, molasses crisp, cinnamon but decanting and time do little to help. Full-bodied, as one would expect, the oak yet presenting caramel, vanilla, mocha, sweet spice tones if in an unmistakably supporting role. Feels firm but nothing stands out about the tannins, nor acidity. Wears its alcohol well. Very primary, most of the flavor comes from the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit. Again, slight floral touches. Nothing tertiary about it says “Syrah.” But it tastes good. Blockish finish, kind of abrupt. 88 points
Chappellet
Napa Valley, California
Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$75.00
14.5%
Dark purple deepens the core to the point you can’t appreciate it’s good clarity, only a slight silt present, the rims are a dense brick red, middle-aged in appearance, no loss of intensity but not youthfully bright either. Composed thrust in the nose, marches with assurance as it provides cedar, vanilla extract, black licorice, salty earth, mountain wildflowers and attractively ripe currant, cherry, blackberry fruit, not even a trace of heat and the oak is very subdued. Full-bodied, juicy and leaves your tongue feeling wet. This is not to say there’s a lack of tannins as there are there and have punch to spare, will continue to add structure for some time. Again, there’s this licorice thing almost reminiscent of cola. Sprig of mint, lemon, eucalyptus leaves, wet cedar, even with a modicum of leather and tobacco it’s deepest development lies ahead. That said, there’s a relaxed fluidity in the black currant, cherry fruit that helps it achieve wonderful balance today. Now, that’s what I’m talking about. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc. 92 points
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
La Chapelle de Lafon-Rochet
Blend
1996
$29.99
12.5%
Crystal clear ruby-purple color, very consistent throughout, nice full rims, attractive in a simple manner. Nice airy nose of bell pepper, mineral dust, brown earth, tar, dried lemon peel, cedar chips, thick currant and black cherry scents, shows development without losing its fruit. Medium-bodied, focused on a big splash upfront that features concentrated currant, plum, cherry fruit. The tannins are smoothed out, stays firm but not too drying. Cedar, forest loam, tar, earth, grass, tobacco, presents the majority of what you want in an older Bordeaux. The finish is not short but not everlasting. Really, it’s just where it should be, cruises along without a hiccup. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot. Second label of Château Lafon-Rochet. 89 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Syrah
2000
$56.99
13.0%
Blackish red purple core, lots of color but definitely showing some age, loses its depth around the red rims, considerable dropoff. The nose has this reduced feel to it, extremely sluggish, enervated black licorice, olive paste, cherry cough syrup, forest floor after a heavy rain, some leather accents but not especially gamey. Medium-bodied, has dried out a lot, filmy texture deadens the tongue. Attractive olive, herbaceous, mineral, merde, tar, orange peel flavors but without depth or breadth. The tannins are fairly matured, not structuring just contributing to the flatness. The cherry, red currant falls off the table real quick. This said, it’s smooth enough and not hot. Mostly echoes. A senile college professor? 86 points
Sent to Their Grave in November 2006
Ravenswood
Sonoma Valley, California
Monte Rosso Vineyard
Zinfandel
1998
$35.99
15.2%
The dark purple core brings both clarity and opacity to the table, slowly shuffles to red-ruby and then purer scarlet at the outermost rims, full and betraying little age. The nose gives up more of the goods on its birth date, dill and cedar mix with menthol rub and earth with only a modicum of cocoa, the cherry, raspberry, watermelon fruit scents have condensed into hard candy sweetness. In the mouth it’s full-bodied like an older body builder that has the visual physique but not muscle density. The coconut, dill and cedar oak flavors play nice with the fairly dusty tannins, while dry in no way “dried out,” just hasn’t shaven in a few days. The red cherry, raspberry, cranberry, strawberry fruit all bright initial crackle without heaviness. Kind of herbal in a forest breeze way, still has that menthol edge. Does turn a touch bitter at the end, not too disparate from its general fighter’s mien. More simple than it should be but better than worst case scenarios. 88 points
Mont-Redon, Château
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
1998
$28.99
13.0%
While not darkly hued, there’s enough glow in the yellow color to provide plenty of life, translucency helps to fatten up the rims. Pure Granny Smith apple drenched nose, pear and lemon juice, cinnamon spice, develops an attractive dusting of minerality too, even a smidge of warm rubber as well. Full-bodied in an expansive manner, slowly drives outwards to fill in all the mouth pores. Spicier here, clove and ginger trump the sweeter cinnamon. More zip in the lemon to Mandarin orange here too. Stony as in solid chunks, not dust. Less focus in the green and yellow apple, melon, peach, pear fruit, spreads widely instead. Keeps its weight throughout, more cleanliness than richness as it finishes. If you don’t mind the slight loss of fruit, should continue to develop tertiary nuances for a few more years. Unspecified percentages of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne. 90 points
Muga, Bodegas
Rioja, Spain
Torre Muga
Blend
1996
$59.99
13.5%
Blackness in the purple core saps most of the life out, reflective surface though, darkly clear, brick red rims with an orange to yellow tinge. The oak is big in the nose, has developed a strong cedary side as well, tar, cough syrup scents, dried herbs, orange spice, gentle cherry, raspberry scents, opens well with extended air time. Medium-bodied, here the oak has a s noticeable dill flavor, bitter with more toast than cream. Cedar and smoke play a large role and there’s more acidity than expected, gives it pep. With grainy tannins, though, can’t kick that bitter edge. Especially so as there’s a dried out feel to the cherry, raspberry fruit, lacks juiciness and thus length. Actually comes across more traditional and less “new wave” than expected. Nevertheless, does not truly succeed at either. 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 10% Graciano. 87 points
Haut-Brion, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pessac-Léognan
Bahans du Haut-Brion
Blend
1995
$49.99
13.0%
Vermilion purple color, both dark and clean, not especially shiny and well into the bricking stage along the rims, visible orange tint. Big lead pencil, graphite component in the nose, tobacco leaf, cedar, earth with zippy red currant, cherry, blackberry scents, singing at a perfect pitch. Medium-bodied, very smooth and polished, has fully resolved tannins without having sacrificed too much fruit. As a result, there’s quite enough of that currant, blackberry, cherry fruit to match the cedar, peat, tobacco, lead and ash flavors. The acidity sparks the mid-palate, helps lengthen things. Possesses enough smoothness that it may appear short, however, it’s just polite. Fetching minerally, smoky bite at the end. Aged very well. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. 91 points
Vetrice, Fattoria di
Tuscany, Italy
Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina
Villa di Vetrice Vin Santo
Blend
1985
$15.99
16.0%
Trim yellow-brown in hue, good color while mainly transparent, becomes fully yellow by the rims. Very nutty and medicinal nose, bitters, caramel, the lemon peel aspect freshens the prune, date fruit scents, also helps to rein in the alcoholic heat. Medium-bodied, very dry, the acidity much stronger than expected. Brings out a roasted nature in the nuttiness. Here the lemony notes bitter in their own right. Kind of herbal and earthy too, overall it’s curious as fruit flavors are the last thing the wine would bring to your mind, subdued apple cherry and then yellow raisin fig, even the caramel tones are dried. Very intriguing wine but for none of the reasons you would have thought before pulling the cork. Unspecified percentages of Trebbiano, Malvasia. 375 ml bottle. 88 points
Chante Cigale, Domaine
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
1998
$23.99
14.0%
A brick red tint stretches from core to rims, sucks the purple out of the former and heightens the orange in the latter, no blemishes in sight. The nose shows a funk of merde, wet wool and candle wax, any floral or citrus touches ground into pulp, cherry, blackberry scents end up with more bass than treble due to that funkiness. Full-bodied, immediately makes a positive impression with its weight, smoothness and forward momentum. More tree bark, leaves and fallen forest matter, earthy with less wool or out-and-out merde notes. Acidity and tannins both knit into the fabric. Noticeably balanced, cruises with ease, no alcoholic heat at all. The cherry, blackberry, plum fruit hanging tough, for a second suggests dried fruit, plugs on through the finish. A real lunch pail and hardhat kind of a wine, not born into wealth but puts in a hard day’s work without complaint. 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault. 90 points
Vitanza, Tenuta
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
1999
$49.99
13.5%
Reflective violet core, clean and lively, the red rims are beginning to take on a thicker orange hue. Nose of bitters, tea leaf, leather and pressed flowers, the cherry, red currant fruit scents are getting fluffy, losing density, not intensity. In the mouth it’s light to medium-bodied with a big acidic sting, rides roughshod across the tongue. Dried flowers and orange spice play next to the leather, minerals and tea leaves, keeping its voice higher in the register. The red cherry, raspberry, red currant fruit sinewy, without a lot of weight manages to stay steady throughout. There is a slight dip at the finish, introducing more herbal notes. Seems made along traditional lines, firm tannins, no obvious overuse of barriques. Requires food to help flesh it out. 87 points
Tensley
Santa Barbara County, California
Thompson Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$40.00
13.5%
The red-purple color is dark, has held its brightness and displays no sediment nor silt, slowest of fades towards spotless mulberry and maroon rims. The purity extends through the nose where super-fresh and clean raspberry, blueberry, blackberry fruit zings through your nostrils, suggestion of sparse mountain brush, shadowy menthol and lemon zest, remains primary. Medium-bodied, this is immediately recognizable as one for the true acidity slut, huge acidic jaws clamp on your tongue like a junkyard dog. As a result, there’s a little less easy fluidity to the still ripe and polished red cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit. The florality, herbal qualities and citrus all speak in hushed tones. You get more minerality and earthiness in the palate, though. Once you adjust to its energy level you’ll find good balance and natural length as two of its strongest attributes. Can hold for some time but if it isn’t showing much tertiary development by now, hard to say it’s in the offing. 91 points
Pride Mountain
Sonoma County, California
Cabernet Franc
2002
$56.00
14.6%
Rusty red tinge in the opaque purple core, dull brick red to crimson rims, still well-hued but some signs of fading. Rubbery, medicinal nose, starting to slough off both freshness and voluptuousness, maintains that blueberry shake thing with caramel, dark chocolate and mint as the main support, some notes of lemon drop too, touches of cranberry, cherry, raspberry fruit as well. Medium to full-bodied, the tannins are peppery but tend to clump up in uneven bunches, lacks balance. No dearth of caramel, coffee ice cream, crème brûlée, orange sherbet flavors. Remains dry and patchy despite a good flood of blueberry, boysenberry, black cherry fruit. More minty on the back end. Increased alcoholic heat too. Each sip impresses for like five seconds. 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot. 87 points
Turley
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Dusi Ranch
Zinfandel
2003
$42.00
16.5%
Light filmy glow in the red-magenta to purple core, flirts with opacity, slouches towards red-ruby at the rims, plenty of color throughout. Outsized nose of sweet and sugary raisin, date, prune fruit with sufficient cherry, blackberry parts for freshness, honey coated ham, molasses, eucalyptus, orange blossom, gets bigger and bigger as it sits in your nostrils. Full-bodied, has lost some excess flesh, no longer morbidly obese just way fat. The Rubenesque cherry, boysenberry, blueberry, blackberry fruit is sweet but not too sugary here. Blends in menthol, mint, lemon peel and a little bit of earthiness too. No real invasive alcoholic heat and just slightly short. Not elegant but a full-on throwback to this winery’s rep-making days. 90 points
Ravenswood
Sonoma Valley, California
Donnell Ranch
Merlot
1998
$29.99
14.2%
Cough syrup red colored core, still some dull purple hanging in there, clear crimson to orange rims, minimal sediment accrued. Traces of volatile acidity mar the nose, smells scorched like a steak you forgot in the oven for six hours, ample tomato skin notes, game, minerals, beyond the full-bore assault are some floral notes and straightforward cherry, red currant fruit scents. Medium-bodied, somewhat calmer in the mouth but still suffers from volatility. The acidity proper is puckering, heightens the game, leather, earth, grass parts. While happy that it’s not a wimpy Merlot, there’s no need to be knocked to the ground either. Still possesses lots of ripeness in the plum, cherry, black currant fruit, a decided waste of material. Hint of spiced orange peel. Focus hard and imagine the parallel universe. 85 points
Mabileau, Frédéric
Loire, France
Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil
Les Rouillières
Cabernet Franc
2004
$19.99
12.5%
Displays a tiny purple core before scarlet red takes over, full brick red through the dense rims. Thick nose, the plum, blackberry scents sink like a stone before they can mostly register, ash, crushed stone, hint of leather, displays almost no grassy notes, never fully opens. Medium-bodied at best, starts off thicker and sheds body as it progresses. That said, more density than volume in the cherry, red currant fruit, not particularly longlasting. Pencil lead, leather, cigarette smoke, lemon peel, there’s a little bit of most predictable things, nothing truly missing. More acidic than tannic, kind of shortens it. Tightly wound, both gains and loses for it. More robust ending needed. 86 points
Allegrini
Veneto, Italy
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Superiore
Blend
1996
$34.99
15.0%
No sediment but murky enough that the red brick tinged purple core passes through to opacity, clearer near the rims, all rich scarlet and orange. The alcohol present straight off in the nose, milk chocolate and menthol accents abound, just dried sweet garden herbs, spiced orange peel, the plum, black cherry scents plush and expansive. Medium-bodied, has heft but not the roundness nor suppleness you’d expect from the nose. Not to say it is tannic or acidic as both are in fair proportion to the whole. Also suffers from the alcohol here, suspects it raises the perceptibility of the herbaceousness as well. The chocolate aspect remains while not as sweet nor ever-present. The orange citrus, however, more in front and brings some lemon with it. An unfortunate massaged feel in the plum, raspberry, blackberry fruit impedes flow and length. Short finish. All in all, you can chug it decently but nothing to write home about. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella. 86 points
Frankland Estate
Western Australia, Australia
Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Vineyard
Riesling
2002
$21.99
13.0%
Reflective yellow gold, more brilliance than hue, no color left at the rims. The nose is very creamy and especially dominated by petrol/rubber scents, some rain and stone notes but curiously empty beyond that petrol, no citrus and only a whisper of apricot or pear fruit. Medium-bodied, strong presence in terms of outwards pressure and downwards pull, gives your palate a workout. Here there’s more lemon custard and flowers to complement the petrol, after awhile some chalk dust accrues as well. Weaker grip in the peach, apricot, pear fruit, starts off OK but lacks persistence. Its weight is held completely through the end, making it more of a textural affair than flavor fest. (Screwcap) 87 points
Lapostolle, Casa
Rapel Valley, Chile
Clos Apalta
Blend
1997
$49.99
13.5%
The opacity in the black purple core certainly aided by the silty sediment which has developed over the years, still some ruby to be found in the brick red rims, deeply hued throughout. Nose does not betray much age, wet tobacco, black minerally earth and floral musk combine with black currant, black cherry scents to provide youthful fullness in your nostrils, ditto for the oak cream. Full-bodied, here at least shows some angles, lots of flesh but also a degree of focus and direction. The tannins are subdued while still drying enough to take the extra sweetness out of the currant, plum, cherry fruit. The vanilla oak flavors sweet, as are the orange citrus and even the florality. Soft leather, cigar leaf, tar and mineral elements. Kudos for holding onto its fruit these many years later but the $50 was laid down for more than sediment after a almost a decade of aging. Still, has flavor and length so why bitch and moan. 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. 90 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1997
$65.00
13.0%
The black core has a burnt red tinge to it, surrounded by maroon to brick red rims, despite a lack of vivacity in the color and overall darkness, quite clear. Thickly constructed nose, semi-sluggish and lazily ripe plum, blackberry, black cherry scents, the leather, crushed flowers and smoke components nowhere near optimal strength, remains very fruit dominated. Medium to full-bodied, the zesty attack just about gets it bubbling across your tongue on the attack. Sour lemon, grass, spice and menthol make for an initially curious array of flavors, finds its way into a more “expected” display of leather, minerals and rose petals. While it has brawn in the tannins and acidity, possesses a steady dried fruit sugariness in the plum, currant, black cherry fruit that can more than match the former. Pulls up some on the finish, appears to still be in a chrysalis stage, not as bad as its detractors say, not convincing you of its greatness yet either. 25% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Syrah, 25% Merlot. 89 points
Leflaive, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Puligny-Montrachet
Les Pucelles
Chardonnay
1999
$114.99
13.5%
Bronzed gold color, translucent with a gleaming surface, as dark as the core is, empties out by the rims. Totally piercing nose, the oak javelins leave clean holes in your nostrils, fried lime peel, smoke and mineral dust, the polished peach and apricot scents almost too clean to persist, overall zips through like it’s got a train to catch. Medium-bodied, just as sharp and tautly fixed in between your cheeks, mouth-watering acidity heightens the oak toast, lime juice, vanilla bean parts, bright to the point of being overpowering. Despite its over-aggressiveness, releases some floral musk to soften the mid-palate. After some time lemon and tangerine citrus appear as well, soaked into the peach, pear, apple fruit. Hews to its linear presentation from, duh, start to finish. It’s classy, could probably sing an aria or two but not going to belt out the blues. 89 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Butteaux
Chardonnay
2000
$51.99
13.0%
Glassine orange-yellow in color, from a distance there’s thick layers while becomes more transparent from close up. Mint, baked bread, honey and lemon oil fill your nose, seems to split in two directions at once, like the plane in Lost, ripping the tangerine, peach, apricot, pear scents asunder. Medium to full-bodied, spicy and dusty, offering mint oil, lemon and lime reduction, honey coated cookies, floral water, suggests a botrytis influence perhaps. The acidity is broad and blunt, hits you hard a couple of times before receding. There’s some loss to age of apricot, peach, pear, red apple fruit, made more noticeable by the lower grade minerality. Has plenty of velvety weight so it’s not an evanescent experience. The spiciness to last thing to fade. Lacks precision but in the end massages more than a few pleasure nodes. 90 points
Belle Pente Wine Cellars
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Murto Reserve
Pinot Noir
1998
$32.99
12.8%
Blackish brick red in color, has a tiny opaque core then becomes clear as a whistle, fading to a dilute red-orange at the rims. Lots of burnt toast and oak spice on the nose at first, scorched earth, blows off some to pine cone, menthol-laden cherry, blackberry scents, liqueur-like but not juicy per se. Medium to full-bodied, tautly dense if at times hollow, like an abandoned fortress. The tannins tingle the palate, pinch each pore individually. More of that pine, mountain air thing with the addition of dried flowers and lemon peel. Eventually there’s a burst of cherry, blackberry fruit in the middle, enough so to trudge on through to the finish. Betrays a smack of tomato skin to it. Minerally finish, turns dusty and chalky. Obviously needs a lot of air time to stabilize, however, still stays on the roughhewn side. 88 points
Dal Forno, Romano
Veneto, Italy
Valpolicella Superiore
Blend
1995
$85.00
14.5%
Fully opaque purple core, close to black, dark red brick rims, richly hued throughout, the bright surface a welcome visual surprise. The nose shows a surprising degree of coconut/vanilla given its age before leafy foliage accompanies horseradish and nutty glimmers, sharp feel to the cherry, raspberry fruit, takes the corners slowly and decisively. Medium-bodied, has shed excess weight and pared down to basics, pointed dill, marjoram, leather, lemon oil, tea leaf flavors. The more it opens, the more the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit starts to become diffuse. Stone, mineral shards fill the open spaces alongside lemon and orange zest. Tannins reveal more strength than expected, really take control on the back half. Stays with you for different reasons than you would predict, different yet pleasing. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella. 90 points
Chapoutier, Michel
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Monier de La Sizeranne
Syrah
1990
$49.99
13.4%
Presents a black coal core influenced by orange and red brick tones, fades to yellow-red at the rims, overall more neat than cloudy. Rich nose, remains mostly comprised of plum, cherry, currant fruit, mixing in sweet spices, leather, mild slate or stone suggestion, smoky in a sweet way too, admirable most for the tenacity of the fruit, not much else to hang your hat on. Full-bodied, viscous grip has it clinging to the sides of your mouth, smoke, orange to lemon peel, wet tobacco and leather gently peel it off and let your pores breathe. Even the tannins appear plump and corpulent, no acidity. Given its relative lack of tertiary development, leaves you wondering if it is going to go anywhere some day. Just gets its weight rolling forward and leaves it on auto-pilot. 89 points
Sauzet, Etienne
Burgundy, France
Puligny-Montrachet
Les Referts
Chardonnay
1996
$72.99
13.5%
Soft gauziness in the golden color, not translucent but there’s a definite gentle distortion of light, fades steadily towards the empty rims. The nose is mainly honey, cookie dough and caramel, wafts of mint and orange spice, peach to pear fruit scents have a concentrated fruit cobbler aspect. Medium-bodied, has a dusty texture at first which powders the tongue and semi-deadens it. The orange to lemon citrus enlivens it some and the sharp clove to ginger spices take this a step further. Nothing to really note about the acidity so nothing noted. Basic, stripped-down presentation to the peach, pear, red apple fruit, in no way short nor, alternatively, exhibitionistic. Not as honeyed as the nose might suggest. Some tacky residue left behind. Drink up. 89 points
Montille, Domaine Hubert de
Burgundy, France
Pommard
Les Pézerolles
Pinot Noir
2001
$82.99
12.0%
Filmy red-purple color, not cloudy but not sharp either, stays fully red through the rims, no dropoff in hue to be seen. Sappy nose of wildflowers, anise seed, candied orange peels, beef blood and mountain scrub, the cherry, black raspberry fruit too thick to become overly expressive and lift. Full-bodied, massages itself deeply into your tongue until you can’t feel the difference between its fingers and your shoulders. The tannins wield benevolent authority, any pain they inflict is for your best. Stout black cherry, blackberry fruit layers itself across your palate with a spoon. Outdoorsy herbal qualities and stony earth fit the general profile well. Not as floral here, touch more by way of white grapefruit to lemon citrus. Tightens the screws some on the finish. Not splashy nor sleek but warms your belly awfully good. 90 points
Vougeraie, Domaine de la
Burgundy
Bonnes Mares
Pinot Noir
2000
$95.99
13.0%
Filmy scarlet purple core, turns just a shade or two lighter to red garnet rims, minimal loss of hue. Nose driven by a strong floral musk, sweet baking spices and ample black cherry, blackberry fruit scents and a spritz of orange zest, no real tertiary development. Full-bodied, plops into the mouth with a soft thud of plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit. Tannins still a touch raw, add to its already gritty texture. Coating of cocoa powder sweetens thing a touch while not effecting the overall dryness. Lower levels of florality as well as citrus here. Holds onto its weight from start to finish yet does not offer much by way of sense of progression. Leaves you with a positive impression regarding the primary material without particularly stirring your senses. 88 points
Kongsgaard
Napa Valley, California
Chardonnay
1998
$60.00
14.1%
Noticeably aged, dark yellow gold to amber in color, translucent to the edge of becoming cloudy, no surface shine and not much left along the rims, has that solid block look in the glass. The nose takes awhile to expand, at first still mostly oak albeit the dusty spice, butter toffee and vanilla icing too show maturity, displays an earthy to leathery side which is unexpected while the orange blossom and apricot to peach fruit scents are the last to coalesce, while has gained some complexity has lost the sheer knockout punch it had in its youth. Medium-bodied, here in the mouth the drying out of the peach, nectarine, apricot, pineapple, papaya fruit is more evident. That said, there’s also more acidity than expected as well as elevated spiciness, clove and orange to lemon zest to keep it active. As it puts on weight it progressively loses its crisp oak toast and burnt butter notes, the oak never truly disappears but mostly knits in. Again, there’s something earthy and borderline gamey going on that grabs your attention. Wish it had held more of its voluptuousness to pair with any aged qualities but, as experiments in aging go, both enjoyable and instructive. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in October 2006
Turley
Napa Valley, California
Atlas Peak
Mead Ranch
Zinfandel
2000
$34.00
15.7%
Good deal of clarity, nowhere near opaque, red-purple core, lots of bricking in the crimson rims, turns to orange at the outermost edge. Mint chocolate, menthol permeate every aspect of the nose, then dried beef, earth, minerals, fried plantains, thick blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry scents, tends to pull in different directions, not overly harmonious. Full-bodied, medicinal with rubbing alcohol notes which gets swarmed over by orange citrus, flowers, vanilla powder and caramel, however, even the oak has dried out and lost flavor. Rough grained tannins, become more present as the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit stays sugary, if not juicy. More minty past the mid-palate. Does smooth out towards the finish as it evaporates off the palate. Concentrated to slip by the first few foot guards but doesn’t get past video surveillance. 87 points
Latour-Giraud, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Cuvée Charles Maxime
Chardonnay
2002
$49.99
13.0%
Glassy gold color, turning to light bronze, pools well in the glass, moderate surface shine, flatter underneath. Grilled nuts, marzipan, lime/lemon concentrate, baked apple pie, peach pie, wet toast comprise the bulk of the nose, hangs tough and fights the dissolve. Medium-bodied, filmy texture, spicy with much more noticeable oak here, ginger, clove, lemon drop, buttered toast, pain grille, more of that marzipan stuff. The concentration in the peach, apricot, pear, nectarine fruit is obvious but it lacks follow-through and easy freshness, most likely attributable to the lack of acidity perception. Very little minerality. In the style of big, forward Meursault, not busting its ass to show its terroir. Real easy to drink now, may turn radioactive in 2-3 years though. 89 points
Failla-Jordan
Russian River Valley, California
Keefer Ranch
Pinot Noir
2000
$38.00
14.2%
Very cloudy, glowing purple core, fully opaque, even with its luminescence the red to orange brick shows through the rims. Soft, warm caramel in the nose, lesser vanilla, sweetly juicy grapefruit to orange citrus, little bit of tomato skin, the plum, blackberry scents are thick but semi-flat. Full-bodied, heavy without a sense of movement to it. Very spicy, the toast and vanilla crunch is the first thing you register as well as the last. A tad too extracted, lacks freshness in the blackberry, raspberry fruit, sugary with a vague dried fruit patina. A palpable vegetality blooms in the middle. Not unpleasant but lack the follow-through for a good finish as well as overall fluid integration. 86 points
Rombauer
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$34.99
13.2%
Purple still controls the color of the core but there’s noticeable red bricking throughout, fully at the rims, on the whole clear with a good sheen on the surface. Mint, toasted coconut and chocolate ice cream provide the bulk of the nose, however, as it opens up there’s a contrasting element of saltlick, dried beef and saddle leather, lots of dark currant, cherry and plum scents remain, good richness. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, here the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit has paled some, elevating the perception of tannins. Oak less present, the toast and fried butter flavors knit into total fabric. Touch herbal, less of the leather or game accents than in the nose. Finishes increasingly drier and thus short. Nose the clear winner over the palate. 87 points
Linne Calodo
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
James Berry Vineyard
Blend
1998
$28.00
14.6%
Vigorous purple core surrounded by broad red-ruby rims, little sign of aging but there is a fine silt sediment throughout, even after standing up for over a day. Alcohol permeates the nose, otherwise there’s abundant mixed berries, vanilla pudding and coconut as well as black licorice and potpourri. Full-bodied, much less perceptible alcohol in the mouth. Possesses formidable tannins even now, welcome for how they produce a skeleton for things. The cherry, cranberry, blackberry fruit stripped down to basics, no extra juice to be found. Minty with a light toastiness, otherwise the oak presence is nothing of note. The floral aspect is lower here, more by way of mixed orange and lemon citrus. Not all that herbaceous nor earthy, more pure stone and a touch of leather. Doesn’t appear very evolved, question is given its current state will the fruit outlast the tannins? 90% Syrah, 5% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre. 89 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côtes du Rhône Brézème
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2000
$19.99
12.5%
Luminescent cloudiness in the opaque purple core, the glow extends through the lively pink-magenta rims, full saturation throughout. Keenly penetrating nose, over-aggressive with distinct signs of brett, furnishes olive tapenade, burnt game fat, crushed stones, white grapefruit pith, an all but impossible struggle to discern any fruit. Medium-bodied, brett out the wazoo here too with the added benefit of volatile acidity. The nail polish thing recedes to allow wet leather, damp animal fur, olive pits, stony earth to the fore. About zero florality and a touch more mixed white citrus. The tannins grind along like a manual lawnmower. There’s freer currant, cherry fruit here but it’s still work to enjoy it. Possesses a lot of Syrah character but too disjointed to really get into it. 85 points
Font de Michelle, Domaine
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
1998
$27.99
14.0%
The purple core has faded appreciably to garnet red, solid brick red at the rims with a hint of orange, no visible sediment and light gathers well on the surface. Relaxed nose, dense with continuous movement, earthy with meadow flowers and hay, not herbaceous at all, orange pekoe tea, baking spices, minimal prune influences in the cherry, blackberry scents. Medium to full-bodied, sits with a thud on your tongue. The weight slowly releases as it moves through your palate to allow more tea leaf, cut grass, balsam wood, ginger root and orange peel elements out. Still decently tannic, the moderate level of the raspberry, blackberry fruit suggests it won’t outlast the former in a marathon. The fruit still possesses some freshness and does not display dried fruit sugary concentration. Slight burn on the finish. Good, not great. 70% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault. 88 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$55.00
13.6%
The red-black influence in the purple core shows some of its age, the rims are densely packed with crimson, garnet to zinc hues, clean surface and just about zero sediment accrued yet. There’s an odd rubbery or medicinal quality in the nose, throws you off before the red currant, plum fruit scents gain traction, nice orange zest, freshly cut cedar, wet tobacco leaf, tight burst of vanilla but on the whole not oaky, surprising lack of evolution. Medium-bodied, clear line and contours to it, very open and uncomplicated. The tannins ever-present, however, only in a supporting fashion. Minor shades of cedar, loam and leather but equally unevolved here too. The weird thing is it doesn’t do anything to hint at the ability to develop. The black cherry, blackberry, black currant fruit is credible and consistent. The finish is so smooth you stop registering it before it’s really gone. Hard wine to assess definitively. 88 points
Tissot, Domaine André et Mireille
Jura, France
Arbois
Traminer
Savagnin
2004
$17.99
13.0%
Amber-gold color, under the highly reflective surface is a thick, dull single layer, the hue empties out. The nose is very oily with equal milk and tar notes, sharp-edged pineapple, pear, papaya fruit with noticeable, if indistinct, white citrus, hovering below all this is chalk and dusty stones to keep the nostrils very dry. Full-bodied, only minor suggestion of oxidation, has incredibly strong acidity to keep it fresh and clean. Extremely spicy, almost burns your tongue. Much more minerally here, has frying oil and tar flavors which easily outpace any lactose shades. Brilliant snap in the green apple, apricot, pear, pineapple fruit, more mouth-watering than juicy. Keeps scrubbing your mouth pores until they are raw. Still spicy and minerally through the finish, yet with an added bitter bite. (Traminer is an Arbois synonym for Savagnin, is not Gewürztraminer.) 90 points
Usseglio & Fils, Domaine Pierre
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée de Mon Aïeul
Blend
2003
$99.99
14.5%
There’s a rusty edge in the dull purple core, the blood red rims already showing an orange tinge, no loss of overall color though. Floral and orange citrus musk quickly fold in the nose before raisin, date to plum dried fruit as well as blackberry and cherry fruit, very sugary with a dark chocolate patina. Medium to full-bodied, alcoholic heat comes through on the attack and lasts through the finish. Spicy and peppery with an herbal streak. The tannins are broad, flat and enveloping, not too green but not smooth either. Super-ripe raspberry, red cherry, blackberry fruit but not so obviously sugary here. There’s zest in the orange, tangerine accents but not so juicy either. Light dusting of cinnamon and ginger spice. Plump and noticeably unevolved, lacks a sprightly step which suggests it is perhaps shutting down some. Difficult to judge. 95% Grenache, 5% Cinsault. 88 points
Turley
Contra Costa County, California
Duarte Vineyard
Zinfandel
2003
$32.00
16.1%
The glowing ruby hue explodes through the purple core, becomes even brighter and more red-ruby at the rims, clear and unblemished throughout. Layers and layers of raspberry, boysenberry, blueberry fruit in the nose, milk chocolate and vanilla crunch, hard toffee, there’s a citrus element but not distinct, touch of grill ember smokiness too. Full-bodied, has the tenacity and pace of a steamroller, relentless in its single-minded pursuit. Almost all weight, what room is left for flavors is occupied by brown sugar coating, candied citrus peel, ginger and prune, raisin, cherry, plum fruit. Comes up with mildly twiggy or herbal notes on the finish. More tannins than expected, this pulls the finish up some. Impressive if you don’t know what you’re looking for. 88 points
Muga, Bodegas
Rioja, Spain
Torre Muga
Blend
1995
$55.00
13.0%
The rusty purple core is clear yet dark enough to repel most light, more orange to red brick around the rims without appearing especially aged. Oak a major factor in the nose, big time coconut custard and vanilla influences, dusty spices before more cedar and salted and dried beef come out, lightly floral and there’s a sense that the plum, black cherry fruit scents might be paling some. Medium-bodied, more or less smooth, nothing in the tannins nor acidity that would have anyone quaking in their boots. That said, it is dry, and drier than expected at that. The initial push of plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit gains sweetness from a touch of prune but does fall off on a steep incline past the mid-palate. A little cedar, tobacco leaf and orange peel but not a lot of compensatory development. At the finish it’s the dryness which is most noticeable, your mouth pores hunting for something to suck on but more so due to lack of flavor than brawn of tannins. Could make the excuse that it’s in an awkward stage but this may be it. Which would be sad. 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 10% Graciano. 87 points
Melka
Napa Valley, California
CJ
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$25.00
14.1%
Slight murk to the blackish purple core, easily achieves opacity, strong brick red to crimson rims betray some of its age, sediment in big chunks, quickly filtered off. Expressive mint component to the nose, then vanilla and cocoa swirl, a considerable amount of plum, cherry fruit is kicking around but the alcoholic fumes prevent it from settling in fully, tree bark cedar, sweet spices and black licorice, doesn’t surprise you that’s a Cabernet but lacks the full deep register. Full-bodied, fairly sappy in texture, the plum, currant, cherry fruit rubs against your cheeks. Outside of the mint and menthol and light toast it’s really not as oaky as the nose might suggest. The tannins are firm and the acidity has more kick than expected. Cedar, sandalwood, garden herbs and a dash of cigar ash are about all you’re getting for advanced flavors. Good deal of weight and flavor left by the finish. Wasn’t sure it would be on the way up or down by now but a very credible showing and glad to have another left. 89 points
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
La Chapelle de Lafon-Rochet
Blend
1995
$24.99
12.5%
Deep purple core with still youthful red-ruby rims, nice surface shine and only a fine sediment, not much appearance of aging. Lots of plum, cherry, blackberry to fill the nose, robustly floral as well, some cedar, wet tobacco leaf and stoniness however remains primary, a real nostril filler. Medium-bodied, shows some advancement here with more loamy earth, cedar, leather and graphite notes. The richness in the plum, currant, black cherry fruit persists, particularly in the first half. Not as floral but still there. The tannins have the fine grit you’d expect after viewing the light sediment, enough left to keep things upright but mostly tamed. Stays on an even keel through the finish, doesn’t scale the heights of complexity but makes you happy to pour some more. Better now than in a year or more. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot. Second label of Château Lafon-Rochet. 90 points
Casenove, Château La
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Côtes du Roussillon
Cuvée Commandant François Jaubert
Blend
1995
$20.00
14.5%
Red-tinged black mud core, opaque, appears neither cloudy nor clear, rims are heavy with blood red to orange hues. Rugged and energetic nose built very much in “country wine” mode, loads of tar, earth, animal fur and olive pits, its lively sour profile extends through the red currant, cherry fruit, outdoorsy but not especially herbaceous. Medium-bodied, smooth with lots of bottom, you can feel the pulverized grit in the tannins, a shadow of its former youthful dominance. Earthier here, minerals equal to the tar. Leather, wiry game flesh, black olives and lemon peel develop throughout, more grassy than the nose as well. The cherry, plum, blackberry fruit is round and lasts nicely, albeit yields decisively to the other aspects by the finish. Displays a great deal of development and hasn’t dried out. One of those excellent values in French wine not seen too often with current releases. 35% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 10% Mourvèdre. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in September 2006
Thandi
Coastal Region, South Africa
Cabernet Sauvignon
2001
13.0%
Fairly clean but gains depth from its strong glow, the blackish purple core comes close to opacity, you can see the ruby switch to garnet and orange around the rims even as the liquid moves. Little bit of vanilla in the nose but more so wide bursts of pine, leather, cedar, sage, rosemary and earth, followed on closely by bell pepper, more than adequate presence in the currant, cherry scents but they do get overshadowed. Medium-bodied, even earthier and more minerally in the mouth, drags the game, leather, cedar, blood flavors with it into the spotlight. Maturing but not fully there, more room for the cedar, dried herbs and forest breeze aspects to grow. Very nice acidity, does most of the work as the tannins are about average at best. The currant, cherry, blackberry fruit consistent, however, not displaying the juiciness that suggests many years more of cellaring. Engagingly extended finish. A very nice drop which speaks of both South Africa and Cabernet. 90 points
Baumard, Domaine des
Loire, France
Savennières
Chenin Blanc
1996
$14.99
13.5%
The color is gold to brass but not really thick, gains depth from translucency, lacks shine but probably didn’t have it in its youth either. Toasty brioche nose with gobs of honey, strong element of botrytis, orange peel, peach and apricot pie, not broad but weight in the floral musk, scents just keep rolling along. Full-bodied, sinks into your palate quickly and one could offer that it’s due to the so-so acidity. However, it does fashion a dry finish and it’s not seems sloppy leading up to that. Until then the honey shines through as does the florality and orange to lemon citrus. The pear, peach, apricot, guava fruit slightly clipped, lacking ongoing juiciness. Only mildly waxy, minerality lost in the shuffle. Enjoyable primarily for its eagerness to engage you and ability to touch your pleasure center, not its structure nor sense of terroir. 90 points
Reverie
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$55.00
13.5%
Just about opaque reddish black core, concentrated brick red to dried blood red rims, matured appearance yet with a noticeably shiny surface. There a sappy liqueur or hard candy character to the cherry, blackberry fruit scents, sweet and dense but not sugary, leather, cured beef, mountain air, menthol, sage, and mild bell pepper imbue it with depth and complexity, has the muscles to persist for some time before finally dissolving. Medium-bodied, puts on weight as it opens, filling out nicely. Tobacco ash, minerals, game, cedar, dried blood, bell pepper, field grasses build into a rugged profile, the tannins remain taut and contribute to the flavor presentation as well as general structure. There’s a sweet swelling in the middle of blackberry, raspberry, red currant fruit which draws you in further and still releases into the smooth, slowly paced finish. The oak is almost invisible within its total fabric. Very classy in a roguish manner, a pleasure to consume. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, approximately one-quarter Cabernet Franc with a trace amount of Petite Verdot. 92 points
Pride Mountain
Sonoma County, California
Cabernet Franc
2000
$52.00
14.1%
Black-red core, not fully opaque, rims suggest advancing age through orange-tinged crimson, clean and fully-hued throughout. Just about every drop squeezed out of the plum, cherry, raspberry fruit scents but still not a very fruity nose, larger elements of bell pepper, tobacco ash, cowhide and mint, doesn’t come across as excessively oaky either, sinks in the nostrils and thus lacks motion. Medium-bodied, here there’s a full blast of fresh butter, caramel popcorn, dill and menthol, damn oaky. Earth, tobacco, bell pepper, cut grass and salted dried beef help it form a more serious mien. Tannins are fairly ground up, no acidity. Still, there’s a tacky feel to it, like sticky wet sand. Cherry, blackberry fruit manages to be juicy without being sweet. Moderate concentration on the finish. Harder-edged than it needs to be. 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot. 87 points
Garretson Wine Company
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
The Aisling
Syrah
2000
$30.00
14.1%
Dark red-purple core, almost zero sediment accrued, trim appearance, saturated reddish ruby rims. The oak has hardly knit-in in the nose, still mostly toasted coconut, caramel and vanilla powder, there is a stronger gaminess going on than in its youth, salty too, the alcoholic fumes distract from the red currant, red cherry scents. Full-bodied, dense and smooth enough to not present a sense of beginning, middle and end, just big throughout. The tannins have minor grit at best yet remain present. Less obtrusive oak here, toasty without getting too sharp, chocolate and maybe a touch of dill too. Minimal loss of juice in the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit. Not as gamey nor leathery here. Extended finish but hard to judge it as such due to the aforementioned lack of sense of movement. Unspecified blend of Fralich Vineyard and James Berry Vineyard. (Synthetic Cork) 87 points
Gagliole, Azienda Agricola Antico Podere
Tuscany, Italy
Colli della Toscana Centrale Rosso
Blend
1997
$55.00
13.0%
The dark purple core pushes just into opacity, vibrant sunset red-orange rims, fully hued, no chunky sediment but does throw a fine silt. Sturdily built nose of cedar, pine sap, tarry earth, orange pekoe tea, there's still nice concentration in the raspberry, blackberry scents, only missing the lift that might have been there in its youth. Medium-bodied, the drying tannins certainly aided by the aforementioned silt, dust bunnies settle on your tongue. Cedar, tobacco, tar, fresh tree leaves and bark, the kind of old spices you find in your grandmother's lazy susan. The cherry, raspberry fruit starts out well but gets its legs kicked out from under it real quick-like. As a result during the back half you feel some oak toast residue accruing. Clean finish a silver lining even if its because there's not much left to mess things up. 90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 87 points
Ridge Point Cellars
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
“Red Wine”
Blend
2002
Price Unknown (sister bought it for $5 on sale)
14.3%
A lot of red brick tinge in the basic purple core, grainy crimson rims, murky but not cloudy. Sweet nose of powdered sugar, cotton candy, plum, blackberry, cherry fruit, leavened by some grassiness, tobacco ash, counterbalanced yet again by heavy vanilla cream. Medium-bodied, shows a surprising amount of tannins given its overall ripeness, perhaps due to its percentage of Cabernet Franc. This helps add a measure of suppleness to the plum, currant, black cherry fruit which might be too chunky otherwise. No bell pepper but still herbal, blends in orange spice and a vanilla/mocha swirl. Flattens out some and loses focus past the mid-palate. A credible “kitchen sink” blend. 36% Cabernet Franc, 33% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, 9% Syrah, 8% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot. 85 points
Latour-Giraud, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Genevrières
Chardonnay
1996
$39.99
13.5%
Gauzy orange bronzed core, just needs a fly trapped in its amber, more fat yellow gold at the rims, translucent throughout. Extremely spicy nose, piles of charred wood, lime zest, orange marmalade, crème brûlée, apricot paste and poached pears, sharp and virtually all angles which contributes to its swift dissolve in spite of its initial blast. Medium-bodied, double dose in the mouth of whatever the nose has. Seriously toasty with burnt butter, clove, caramel and tangerine, blood orange zest. Average acidity, could probably use a bit more oomph in this department. Too much of a swirling dust cloud effect to allow the peach, apricot, apple fruit to soak in. Its mouth weight short on the finish but its still dancing on the roof of your mouth. Not a lot of “transparency” but it’s hard to ignore its infectious energy. 90 points
Fife
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$34.99
14.2%
No cloudiness but there’s enough black to red tinges in the dark purple core to at least make it opaque as well as the rims translucent, around the outside is a hint of orange. The nose is stuffed to near immobility, milk chocolate and coconut macaroons without being oaky per se, bell pepper, dill, wet tobacco leaf, cedar, camphor scents abound, the currant and plum fruit evokes maximal ripeness in stasis without liquid movement. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, the heavy layers have smushed together into indistinguishability. Thick steel beams of tannins dominate after the attack ends, as structured as one could hope for without becoming too dry. Even the burly herbaceousness gets swallowed up, a credit to the cherry, plum, black currant fruit that it fights through to the finish. More dill and cedar, leather, more earthy here and even meaty. Doesn’t feel very evolved, hard to picture it becoming more streamlined or transparent. Makes you want venison or other game meats, not so complete on its own. 89 points
Zind Humbrecht, Domaine
Alsace, France
Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain
Pinot Gris
1996
$55.00
13.5%
Orange bronze color, softly luminescent, fades to yellow around the rims, flat without much visual sparkle, visibly a matured wine. Smoky nose, burning sticks and stones, turpentine, salt, the pineapple, nectarine, quince, papaya, apricot fruit has a dried character without the concentration of sugars, still full of rugged energy, kicks around your nostrils. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with the sheer voluptuousness it had in its youth, however the skeleton and sinewy flesh remains formidable. Very thinly honeyed, enough to take the sting out of the pineapple, papaya, nectarine, apricot, pear, tangerine fruit. All things considered, nothing negative to say about the acidity, holds its shape throughout and stays dry. Good minerality, no real signs of oxidation or milkiness. Not as acrid as the nose is at moments yet there is an herbal edge as well as that smokiness. Not especially long on the finish but so firm is its grip that its impression lasts well. Stands up for itself, whether you think it good, bad or indifferent. 90 points
Trinoro, Tenuta di
Tuscany, Italy
Palazzi
Blend
1998
$89.99
13.5%
Black to scarlet colored core, more pure red around the rims, very deeply hued but not so lively. Soft, round nose of pine needles, sweet tea leaves, tarry earth, dried orange peels, the cherry, plum scents more firm than juicy, fade on the fast side. Full-bodied, tannins immediately dust the tongue but they aren’t thick per se. There’s an initial burst of caramel and popcorn but this falls off by the mid-palate. Regrettably, the same can be said for the plum, cherry, red currant fruit, as in the nose, front-loaded. Rubber, tar, earth and a few medicinal notes but not a whole lot going on. Has a great deal of weight so you continue to feel it once the flavors have more or less subsided. Don’t think it is shut down, more like just simple. 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot. 87 points
Rousseau, Domaine Armand
Burgundy, France
Chambertin Clos de Bèze
Pinot Noir
1991
$125.99
13.0%
Red-black bruise of a core, surrounded by extremely wide and semi-diffuse orange-red rims which in turn fade to yellow further out. High-toned and invasive nose of cranberry, raspberry fruit, clenches as the grass, earth, minerals, light menthol flushes your nostrils out, impressively impetuous in its length. Medium-bodied, first thing you notice is the acidity, lacks consistency and a sense of supportive timing but definitely breathes life into things. tea leaf, lemon peel, tobacco and metal/iron contribute to its erect bearing. The cherry, raspberry fruit could still stand to unwind a bit, if it hasn’t by now, doubt it’s gonna. Very smoky, just about grilled in character with an increasingly herbaceous finish. Not dapper but shows its blue blood. 90 points
Evangile, Château L’
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1990
$150.00
13.0%
Orange-black core, not very colorful per se, dull yellowish rims however much clearer around the utmost outside. The scents seem more intent on crashing through your nostrils than clearly expressing themselves, a flush of metallic earth, merde, old saddle leather, sour lemons, bell pepper, black smoke, there’s lively sour bite in the cherry, plum, currant fruit scents but no real center. Medium-bodied, more polished here but in a roguish fashion. Grips your cheeks to the point of pinching while still releasing enough to stay fluid. Grassy and earthy notes as well as powerful acidity add immeasurably to its snap, awakens it from its initial sedate state. Golden raisin notes in the cherry, red currant fruit, lends a moment of sweetness. Mild cedar but nothing tertiary leaps out at you. Neither an especially long nor deep finish but plays well off of its initial flourish on the attack. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. 90 points
Turley
Central Valley, California
Lodi
Dogtown Vineyard
Zinfandel
2002
$40.00
16.3%
The purple core swiftly gives way to broad red-magenta to crimson rims, average shine, there’s not a lot of loss of hue intensity around the rims. The nose is mainly red cherry, cranberry, raspberry fruit with a caramel coating, creaminess gives it staying, clinging power in the nostrils, not many scents betraying evolution. Medium-bodied, sharper-edged here and penetrates deeply before releasing a load of mint, toffee crisp, nougat, ginger/cumin spice, orange peel and eucalyptus. There’s attractive aggressiveness in the cranberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit. The acidity has bite, no real tannins to speak of. Erect bearing, good structure on the whole, not too sweet. Again, not much age showing flavor-wise. Gets in your face and stays there. 90 points
Sérafin Père & Fils, Domaine Christian
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Les Baudes
Pinot Noir
2000
$69.99
13.5%
Dark, medicinal red-black to purple core, close to opaque, dried blood red rims, dull crimson, more brooding than shiny. Lots of animal hide, leather, burnt earth in the nose, opposed by candied cherry, raspberry fruit scents but not necessarily balanced by them, musty hay and cut grass, its thick as soup presence in your nostrils makes it hard to parse things out. Full-bodied, thick and syrupy texture here in the mouth too, the roasted aspect in the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit halts the sugary sweetness some. The tannins have turned to a rough sandpaper feel, not overbearing but not fine nor grainy. Violets and lilacs more like powdery essence than misty liquid. Kind of short on the finish. Has brute power to spare but lacking in charm. 86 points
Brunel, Domaine André
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Centenaire
Blend
1989
$89.99
13.5%
Reddish purple core, plenty of silt floating through, orange-red brick rims, its age takes away from both its shine and depth of hue. The nose has a teasing quality, pushes at you and then withdraws, no consistent presentation of the prunes, dark berries, tree leaves, tar, mixed white citrus, wildflowers, has a mild milk chocolate coating, smokiness keeps it alert when fully present. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, gritty and very willing to dig into your mouth’s pores. Grassy, loamy, earthy, minerally, none out of proportion to the others. The acidity and tannins are softened and fine, buoyant and not overdeterminate. The currant, cherry, raspberry fruit remains long and bouncy rather than deep, pleasingly without excess flesh. Soaks in without really staining the palate, totally unforced, only force is the desire to refill the glass. 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. 91 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Vieilles Vignes
Blend
2000
$29.99
13.5%
Mostly opaque red-purple core, wide red crimson rims, sucks in the light enough to not visually compel. Bodaciously funky nose of merde, rubber, wet fur, beef, minerals, stream bed mud, pressed flowers and cherry, red currant and cranberry fruit, kicks at you like it’s trapped in the trunk of a car. Medium to full-bodied, smooth given its girth. Olive paste, rubber, flatulence, tar, earth, dried potpourri, dried lemon peel keeps the aggressiveness coming, really hits you with everything its got, ready to borrow against the house to do so. The acidity has that kung fu grip, this is no wine you would mindlessly soak in. Winds even tighter as it finishes, super-erect, perhaps could release more cherry, red berry fruit. Structured such that it will last for some time, the only question is will it gain in tertiary development more than pale in fruit. 75% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre. 91 points
Garretson Wine Company
Santa Barbara County, California
The Limóid Cior
Roussanne
2001
$28.00
14.3%
Full yellow-orange bronze color, semi-translucent and block-like, washes out slightly around the rims, no shine at all. Heavily poached nose of apricot, peach, yellow apple fruit, cinnamon and nutmeg spice, light milkiness, lemon custard, caramel, everything is plump and reclining on a super-soft couch. Full-bodied, zero acidity, no spine, first impression is of apple juice, severely honeyed, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice swirled in. The peach, apricot, pear fruit all poached and concentrated akin to dried fruit. The vividness of the flavors lengthen them enormously but still not particularly complex, just deep as the center of the earth. Shame it has no energy to enliven the flavors because if it did it could have been quite compelling. 56% Westerly Vineyard, 44% Stolpman Vineyard. (Synthetic cork) 86 points
Pride Mountain
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1999
$65.00
14.1%
Black core, too opaque to even show any purple, lightens quite a lot at the rims, old red brick to dull crimson but not very rich. The nose is very bottom-heavy, the mint, eucalyptus and menthol tries unsuccessfully to provide lift, bell pepper, mineral chunks, earth appear, kind of nutty too, odd waft of rubber, the plum, black cherry, boysenberry fruit muscular but not unyielding. Full-bodied, mocha, vanilla, hard toffee, mesquite smoke, mint, lemon oil, peanut shells, black earth, spice, brown cigar leaf, orange zest come here and there. The broad tannins possessed of brawn yet not overbearing, good structure, gives it balls. Metallic, minerally edge breathes further life into it. The plum, black currant, cherry fruit is consistent but never overly sappy nor juicy. Long, sturdy finish, plenty of stuffing. Somehow, though, it never flows naturally, the loving girlfriend who turns out to be a cyborg in the sci-fi movie. 89 points
Woodward Canyon
Regional Blend, Washington
Artist Series #6
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$34.99
13.6%
Not black but has a dusky core that reaches full opacity, the dull red brick rims, while strong, betray its age. Bell pepper, licorice, dried beef, caramel/vanilla swirl take over the nose first, not only is there lots of currant, black cherry fruit but it also has a liqueur-like character, billows like thick smoke, never quite fully rises. Full-bodied, perhaps has a mildly hollow center but fills back up through the finish. Roasted but still sweet and juicy nature to the plum, currant, black cherry fruit. Grainy tannins still active and possess some pepperiness. More vanilla and oaky cream here, without getting intense, less herbal notes. Minty fresh at moments too. Minor nuances of cedar, tobacco leaf or brown earth. Very even-handed, drinking quite well. Grapes sourced from Walla Walla, Columbia Valleys. 89 points
Léoville Barton, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1995
$119.99
12.5%
Deep purple core, rims well into red brick with orange flecks, a very fine silt throughout suggests a need to stand it up before opening/decant. The nose is fluffy with wet cedar chips, spice, orange peel, tobacco, moist leather, some caramel popcorn oak scents but not much, the plum and currant fruit is steady but not spectacular. Full-bodied, at first it is voluptuous but as it is exposed to air it tightens up rather than open up. The tannins are hard-nosed and there’s some reasonable doubt the currant, black cherry fruit will win the marathon. Leather, cedar, loam and all that usual good stuff. Stern and short as a result of the tannins. Gotta hope it is just in a bad place right now. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in August 2006
Cloudy BayMarlborough, New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc
2001
$26.99
13.5%
Flat straw to old yellow gold color, transparent on the whole while there’s still good bending of light, color lasts close to the rims. Smoky and minerally nose, rushes nicely into your nostrils, had gained a slight milkiness while the tropical breadth of the pineapple, papaya, nectarine, peach fruit has faded some, paled citrus too but there’s rose petals and a glimmer of chili pepper to fill things out. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, the acidity still providing a sinewy skeletal structure. This more evident as the flesh has atrophied some, little juice left in the peach, apricot, nectarine, pineapple, passion fruit. More white grapefruit and lemon than in the nose, slightly less in the white stone and mineral department. Not a lot of chili pepper per se but there’s a spicy bite nonetheless. Fairly smooth, finish could last a bit longer. Did not develop the complexity which would have proven a fair tradeoff for its youthful flash. 88 points
Suavia, Azienda Agricola
Veneto, Italy
Soave Classico
Le Rive
Garganega
2002
$27.99
14.0%
Incredibly deep golden color, already pushing amber, displays a little fizz upon pouring, high level of translucency. Robust and fairly explosive nose of licorice, pine tar, raw pie dough, honey, there’s a paste-like concentration in the apricot, peach, nectarine, pineapple scents, pleasing herbal twist as it dissolves. Medium-bodied, suggests having lost some weight. Accents of rosemary, thyme, anise, licorice and a light herbaceousness flit above the pie dough, custard, lemon and orange peel foundation. More honeyed during the entry to mid-palate, smoothes out after. Little acidity but so much going on, it’s hard to care a lot. Pine breeze finish. Holds your interest. 89 points
Siegendorf, Klosterkeller
Burgenland, Austria
Trockenbeerenauslese
Pinot Blanc
1979
14.0%
Full amber color, all orange to bronze hues, yellowish rims, full clarity, no cloud at all. Cinnamon, toasted white bread, ginger, orange marmalade, smoke, even a bit of salty brine in the nose, certainly has a concentrated fruit paste feel in the peach, apricot, nectarine scents, not very complex but deep and fluid both. Medium-bodied, the sweetness and concentration front-loaded, black licorice tones to the apricot, peach paste give it zing while there’s a surprisingly active amount of acidity to be had. Brown sugar and molasses are in full effect, as are the orange and lemon citrus tang. Any herbal accents wait until the finish to speak up. Lacks the kind of milky or bready aspects which would suggest its age. No slacker on the finish either. 375 ml bottle. 90 points
Pépière, Domaine de la
Loire, France
Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie
Clos des Briords
Vieilles Vignes
Muscadet
1988
$32.99
12.0%
Has a deep yellow straw core, bright but incapable of reaching for the rims, dullness on the surface betrays its age. Powerful milkiness in the nose, lanolin, beeswax, lemon oil, burnt grasses, sauna stones, if it wasn’t in its youth it’s virtually non-fruit scents now, peach and pear skin at best. Medium-bodied with a full, strong grip, takes a lot to convince it to stop squeezing your tongue. Much stonier here, chalk and powdered minerals, mineral water. Has lactose notes but much fresher than the nose, more bite in the lemon/lime citrus too. The acidity does an OK job, not flabby, not super at attention either. Some anise and floral notes on the finish, still not much pear, peach, apricot, apple fruit. Very, very nice but not quite great. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in July 2006
Schaefer, Weingut Willi
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Graacher
Domprobst
Auslese AP #13
Riesling
1989
8.0%
While no blemishes in sight, the gold has taken on an aged enough appearance to give it solidity from the surface down, no lack of translucent shimmer. The nose is fairly focused and sparse, sprinter’s pace to the lemon oil, wax, orange blossom, cane sugar scents, not very stony and the rubber notes are murmurs at best, the peach, apricot, red apple fruit scents could stand more length. Medium-bodied, slightly richer and sweeter in the mouth but not by much. The acidity imbues it with even more direction and rapidity, resulting in not a short finish per se but more so a lack of desire to linger. Tartly zesty tangerine, orange citrus in spades. Higher degree of rubber, oil and tar but still not much minerality. Takes on a tropical feel via the pineapple, nectarine, papaya, apricot fruit. The sweetness must come from this because there’s minimal honey or sugar accents. Lack of intensity or grip suggests it is just passing out of its prime. 375 ml bottle. 90 points
Turley
Regional Blend, California
Old Vines
Zinfandel
2000
$25.00
15.0%
Semi-dark ruby-purple core, kind of bruised look, red garnet rims starting to develop a light orange tinge. Fat vanilla, coconut custard, pine crust, cinnamon and clove in the nose, jammy and overweight blueberry, blackberry scents, sweet BBQ sauce smoke, if you want complexity look elsewhere. In the mouth there’s no lack of body but it is also equally homogeneous and mindlessly consistent. Orange citrus, herbs, more grill smoke, ginger but none long lasting. Not capable of distances, you can get a few spins around the corral and that’s it. Flattens out too soon at the end, really very little finish at all. Should have taken advantage of its youth instead of waiting. Regional blend of Napa, Lodi, Paso Robles and Oakley. 86 points
Fife
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$40.99
13.6%
Trim and spotless, there's a vague cough syrup look to the black to red tinged purple core, solid brick red rims with just a slight hint at orange. The fruit in the nose is syrupy enough to congeal into dried fruit, all plum, cassis, black cherry, adds in coffee bean and French vanilla oaky touches, eucalyptus, beef jerky, black smoke, mineral chunks, light cedar, slightly more obvious herbal notes. In the mouth it's medium-bodied, which is worrisome as the ripeness in the currant, blackberry, black cherry fruit should add more body than it does, suggesting some drying out. Cedar, forest floor scrub, orange peel, minerals, wildflowers appear but it doesn't taste particularly evolved. The tannins in no way weak but not over-determinant. Some caramel, vanilla oak shades. Little bit of dill and bell pepper too. Leaves you thinking you didn't pull the cork too soon while a part of you still hopes it could taste better in another 3-5 years. 89 points
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Dry Creek
Sangiovese
1997
$21.99
14.4%
Black, brown, orange all smushed into the brick red core, lightens appreciably to ochre-yellow around the rims, unblemished and on the whole transparent. Dusty red cherry-driven nose, touch of plum, the leather and tar aspects lack moisture, notes of Cuban coffee, fattens some in the glass, inert while alert. Medium-bodied, slightly dried out, highlights rose petals, dried orange peels, tea leaves. While light of touch perhaps it’s more “Italian” for it. The acidity is dull but broad and always evident. Fluffy in texture, helps raise it off the tongue. The cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit could stand some more muscle. Vanilla extract residue largest flavor during the finish. 83% Sangiovese, 17% Merlot. 86 points
Ridge
Sonoma Valley, California
Pagani
Alicante Bouschet
1997
$23.99
14.5%
Very deep purple, light bounces off the blackish surface, the underlying clarity comes out around vibrant rub to brick red, incredible saturation. Vanilla and sharp spice reveal the toasty oak still filling the nose, cedar, mint oil, takes on leather and smoked beef tones with time, massively dense currant, cassis, plum, cherry scents, about the only thing which can lift or break it is the crinkly alcohol effect. Medium-bodied, here the Zinfandel component comes through strongly, sweeter plum and blackberry with prune shades, the spice sweeter here too, mint and eucalyptus. The tannins are ground up enough to not be arch but they still dry things by factors. Leather, tar, dried blood and pressed flowers. Remains on the chewy side still, even as the finish kind of abruptly drops off. But next sip just as full. Attractively rustic. 75% Alicante Bouschet, 25% Zinfandel. 90 points
Ridge
Sonoma County, California
Mazzoni Home Ranch
Zinfandel
1997
$23.99
13.8%
Light black purple to brownish red brick colored core, more dulled rose red towards the rims, not a great deal of hue loss but some, very good clarity. Ripe raspberry, blackberry, strawberry fruit, warm butter, pine needle, musky but fresh like a wet forest, chocolaty dissolve. Medium-bodied, sweet attack in terns of sugar but the texture is all dry and tacky. Lemon peel, garden herbs, sour in an grassy, stony way, even turns the florality somewhat tart. If it can do that, you bet the same happens with the raspberry, cranberry, red cherry fruit. Lemony, white grapefruit, the acidity drives this car, not the tannins. Sweet and sour mesquite smoke, charred oak, vanilla icing, cocoa powder. Slightly rough, not that incredibly integrated but stays on your good side. 60% Zinfandel, 35% Carignane, 5% Petite Sirah. 89 points
Bressy-Masson, Domaine (Marie-France)
Rhône, France
Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Rasteau
Cuvée Paul Emile
Blend
1998
$18.99
14.0%
Highly reflective surface, aided by the blackness in the dark purple core, while still mostly ruby the rims are starting to develop red to garnet-orange shades. Positively tangy nose of white grapefruit, lemon citrus, crisp cranberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit as well as beef blood, leather, iodine, lavender, excellent punching power and always on the attack. Medium-bodied, smooth without unnecessary polish, likes to pinch your tongue as it moves along. The florality comes out stronger in the mouth while the grapefruit, orange citrus calms down some. Suave acidity keeps the raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit fresh and not too sweet. There’s an undercurrent of herbaceousness which contributes to its snappiness, especially on the finish. Light cocoa powder notes. Zero dropoff of flavors at the end. Wonderful wine. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Syrah. 92 points
Léoville Las Cases, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Clos du Marquis
Blend
1995
$26.99
12.5%
The violet core has lost considerable intensity, allowing for a much redder cast to evolve, garnet to crimson runs fully from the center towards the orange-tinged rims. The nose takes awhile to unclench and open, vanilla to coconut notes herald the liveliness of the oak, wet leather and fresh cedar but dried out flowers, mint, the cherry, red currant, blackberry fruit still round and full enough to please. Medium-bodied, its weight itself shows that it is starting to dry out, driftwood, bark and earth more present than any leather or cedar. Tenuous grip in the cherry, blackberry, currant fruit, sticks around well enough. Very flat tannins, drying but no structure offered. Acidity actually slightly better. Some spice and orange peel notes towards the finish. Adequate, but if this bottle is representative, drink up. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petite Verdot. Second label of Château Léoville Las Cases. 86 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Syrah
1999
$59.99
13.0%
Soft, gauzy luminescence in the light violet to red garnet colored core, strong bricking around the rims, all red and orange. The alcohol peeks through in the nose but beyond that there’s sizzling minerals, white grapefruit, beef brisket, fried bacon, black earth and some grassiness, hyper-active to the point the currant, cherry, cranberry fruit can get lost. Medium-bodied, fluffy garrigues and lavender and orange to grapefruit citrus open first, then some of the grilled meats and fat. The acidity plays a major role here, doesn’t let you relax for a minute. Relaxing is good, though. Minerals, earth, grass and olive pits fill out most of the center. The cherry, raspberry, cranberry, red currant fruit tart and nervous, almost downright anxious. On the whole, creates a very nice inner mouth perfume. Lightens its touch on the finish, not weak but could use some food to fill in the gaps. No sense in hoping it will get better. 89 points
Moris Farms
Tuscany, Italy
Maremma
Avvoltore
Blend
1997
$45.00
13.5%
Very clear, somewhat cough syrup in appearance, very nicely hued rims, all scarlet, ochre and touch of yellow. Licorice, potpourri, sweetly spiced orange peel, rosemary and tarragon, dry texture in your nostrils, the cherry, blackberry, plum fruit manages to express its abundant ripeness, aided by a thick coating of milk chocolate and toffee. Medium-bodied, overripe if not prunish, the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit sweet but lacks natural length and depth. Chocolate, caramel and cinnamon/clove spice, candied orange peel. Floral too, some tobacco or tar. For what it has going during the first half, it starts to slowly unravel past the mid-palate, enough residual sweetness to mask the flaws as the flavors empty out. The acidity is decent, tannins average, nothing to pitch in and help here. By no means horrible but not what it should have been at the age. 75% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah. 88 points
Brewer-Clifton
Santa Ynez Valley, California
Rozak Ranch
Pinot Noir
2000
$46.99
13.6%
It’s not cloudy but there is a semi-translucent haze to it, adds depth to the partially violet, mostly red-ruby core, color holds well to the rims, turning successively redder outwards. There’s still plenty of plumpness in the nose, luckily the cola and clove overshadow the tomato skin notes, the spiciness gives the very sweet raspberry, strawberry, red cherry scents a sense of welcome leanness as does the mild herbaceous bite. Medium-bodied, has a worn velvet feel, still soft but enough people’s rears have sat on the fabric to wear it away, hinting that the wine is at or slightly past being at peak. Not as sweet as the nose, the cola is still there, the clove spice too, blends in some indistinct citrus notes and lavender. The cherry, raspberry fruit is on an even keel throughout, no blockbuster but only a few seconds before the finish does it lose its grip. To its credit there’s still fight left in both the tannins and acidity, gives it structure where perhaps the density of the primary material did that alone. Enjoyable to drink. 90 points
Faiveley, Domaine J.
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Pinot Noir
1990
13.0%
Cloudy, the violet core has turned to brick red with faded orange rims. Very forest floor, earthy nose, animal fur, newly pressed flowers, just feels wet, lightly roasted quality to the cherry, red raspberry scents, this supplements the lack of juiciness. Medium-bodied, starting to dry out, really bringing its gritty tannins and acidity to the fore. White citrus and dried flowers also more prominent due to the lack of fruit, What raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit there is remains front-loaded and not particularly unwound. The earthiness is the part that dominates the back half, almost by default. This particular bottle should have been opened sooner. 86 points
Jadot, Domaine Louis
Burgundy, France
Corton-Charlemagne
Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot
Chardonnay
1995
$89.99
13.5%
The orange-bronze color has a great deal of shine, loses its hue concentration at the rims, glassy shimmer throughout though. Spoilt milk, cinnamon, orange peel, herbs, vanilla dust in the nose, poached but not particularly strong apricot and peach fruit scents. Medium-bodied, all spiciness, acidity and even alcoholic heat. There’s pear, apricot, peach fruit upfront but it drops off swiftly past the mid-palate. Real toasty, lots of serious oak still left, highlights the clove, bread dough and spiced orange peel components. Hints at what it was or might have been, not showing signs of mistreatment just not being very good. 85 points
Neyers
Napa Valley
Hudson Vineyards
Syrah
1998
$55.99
14.5%
Not filmy but there is a certain graininess to the color, red to black purple hued core, in the wide rims orange and garnet trump the formerly ruby shades. Light pine needle and menthol notes give the nose freshness, the vanilla cream element has receded a good bit, more offered by way of a molasses glaze, substantial juice remains in the raspberry, blueberry, blackberry fruit scents. Medium to full-bodied, upon opening the acidity is very shrill and it takes awhile for the wine to put on weight as it aerates. Then the acidity becomes more of a dancing pole for the herbs, dried beef chunks, violets and clove spice. The blackberry, black cherry fruit here not as rich as in the nose, all starts out right but there is a premature denouement. Moderate oak influence left, vanilla extract, that spice and some toffee but that’s it. Wiry and fit, no fat, kind of like an older guy who can play some mean tennis for a game or two before tiring. Buttress with some fatty food. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in June 2006
Closel, Domaine du
Loire, France
Savennières
Clos du Papillon
Chenin Blanc
1998
$19.99
12.5%
Orange bronze to amber in color, translucent and cut from a single block, no layers, mild fade to yellow along the rims. More honey, cinnamon and violets in the nose than stone or chalk, light saline quality, even warmed to room temperature there’s naught but peach pit and pear skin for fruit scents. Full-bodied, its dryness gives it both a waxy texture and a certain bitterness during the finish. Yet, as dry as it is, the acidity’s blade all but fully dulled. Lemon and orange citrus spikes before the mid-palate, not half as much honey or spice as in the nose. Here the peach gets a boost from nectarine, papaya, pineapple flavors, if with no more juiciness. Moderate wet stone and mineral water notes, probably could call it more earthy than stony. Just feels inert, one hopes it’s shut down but suspects this is it. 87 points
Solitude, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
1998
$18.99
13.5%
Cloudy glow to the ruby to red-magenta core, the hue stays consistent until it finally turns to orange around the rims. Feels like an 100 pond weight dropped into your nostrils, no subtlety, dungheap’s worth of merde, bag of just cut grass left out in the summer sun, very sour raspberry, red cherry, strawberry scents, wild like it is out of control and beginning to degrade. Full-bodied, clumsy as an ox but a natural clumsiness. Forceful leather, merde, tree bark accents could use some polish but at times enjoyable in its unenjoyability. Blunt cherry, blackberry fruit. No lack of herbaceousness. Its corpse would reach out of its death bed to kick you one last time. You do have to respect its relentlessness, though. 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre. 87 points
Guigal, E.
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
La Turque
Syrah
1999
$299.99
13.0%
Entirely unblemished dark black core, the thick and saturated red-magenta to brick red rims add to its vividness. The nose begins traditionally with white grapefruit, white pepper, dried beef, black earth and then is softened by caramel accents, presents a formidable amount of blackberry, currant scents but in a graceful manner. Medium-bodied, its smoothness amazes, marshals a powerfully conscious effort to rub its velvety goodness into each and every crevice of your mouth. Gamey, not very smoky, more like uncooked meat juice. The white pepper element abundant while the white grapefruit is lower. The finish is incredibly long because of its mouth pore penetration not so much forward motion. The plum, currant, black cherry fruit is plushly sumptuous and always there when you need it. Rare would be the person who could not find something instinctively enjoyable in this, regardless of intellectualization. Includes approximately 5-7% Viognier. 93 points
Jaboulet Aîné, Paul
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Les Jumelles
Syrah
1997
$65.99
13.0%
Great deal of grainy sediment adds darkness to an otherwise lighter crimson red core, rims bricking to orange-red but not as noticeable due to the lighter core. Medicinal nose of sour grasses, olive pit, tar, black earth and barnyard funk, light gaminess, the cherry, black currant scents stick around adequately. Medium-bodied, has equal richness in the mouth regarding the plum, currant, black cherry fruit, however falls off big past the center creating a hollow impression. Super gritty tannins no surprise once you’ve seen that sediment, not much structuring achieved. Wheat, dried lemon peel, dried leaves and tar, not giving much in terms of game or earth. Decent representative sample but getting past peak, if not outright there. 87 points
Mordorée, Domaine de la
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
Blend
1999
$49.99
14.5%
Pure black core, its clarity leads to a flat plane opacity and gives it sleekness, the rims are thin yet the blood red color hums with warmth. Milk chocolate and vanilla soften the nose, abundantly floral, overall the lack of complexity forgiven by the sheer richness of the blackberry, black cherry fruit. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and lays in thick sheets on your tongue until its heaviness renders your palate immobile. Squarish cherry, currant, blackberry fruit, the tannins flat, acidity hammered down. Floral, the juicy lemon and lime accents add the slightest of bite. Chocolaty without coming off as an oak fest. It does not intimate it is shut down, nor does it intimate it has developed much. Pleasing but makes you work to enjoy it. An odd showing, makes you hesitate as to when to consume one’s other bottles. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah. 88 points
Roty, Domaine Joseph
Burgundy, France
Charmes-Chambertin
Pinot Noir
1988
$159.99
13.5%
Gauzy red-purple core, lightens is innate blackness, very broad rims which are brick red and finally a yellowish orange around the outer rims. Expansive nose with a slow, sure lift, features black licorice, dried roses, poor earth as well as lively currant, black cherry, raspberry scents, great deal of unforced length, lingers comfortably. Full-bodied, the tannins have been pounded like veal into a thin, soft texture. Comes up with roses, violets, orange zest before dropping down in the register to leather, lightly tarry earth, tree bark and balsam wood. No noticeable oak, the acidity seems to have enough strength to maintain a healthy degree of freshness. Betrays just a slight loss of grip during the finish. About as complete as you’d want. 93 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Jimsomare Ranch
Cabernet Sauvignon
1994
$40.00
12.4%
Nonchalantly opaque black-purple core, amenably yields to the well-endowed orange to garnet rims, lack of deep color nowhere an issue. The blackberry, black cherry scents have plenty of kick to spare, the bell pepper and herbaceous notes might offend a few but remain totally in place with the pine, sweet tobacco leaf, mesquite smoke scents, there is an initial milkiness which blows off with aeration. Medium-bodied in terms of general heft but expansive enough to take control of more territory as desired. Here in the mouth the bell pepper, minerals and then cut grass components are appreciably more prominent. The tannins have teeth left, generally knit in while the acidity still has the pep to wake up before the rooster does. The well-maintained richness in the black currant, black cherry fruit ensures an extended finish without any sudden dropping off. 91 points
Chandon de Briailles, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Corton
Chardonnay
1996
$65.99
13.0%
Dark golden color, depth of hue wins out over reflectivity, holds admirably through to the rims. The oak is very present in the nose but sliced thinner than garlic by a Sicilian grandmother, bodacious lime, mint, some powdery minerals, has a skin fuzz aspect to the peach, apricot, pear scents, stays on its tippy toes due to the oak toast. Medium-bodied, has the toast but also here a creamy buttery quality too. Lime and orange juice, mint and wildflowers, accessible and eager to please. That said, the acidity is strong enough to keep it vertical and striding forward. Pleasing core of pear, peach, apricot fruit, consistent presence but not the show stealer. Flexes its muscles, still reading literature at night. 90 points
Lafon, Domaine des Comtes
Burgundy, France
Volnay
Santenots du Milieu
Pinot Noir
1999
$60.99
13.5%
Has a night black core, incredibly opaque, the wide rims made of saturated ruby-crimson, possesses clarity given its depth, yet minimal shine. Tilled stony earth, fresh from being turned over, merde, animal fur, very purely stated rusticity, there’s an initial tight-lipped reserve in the currant, red cherry scents, excellent length though. Medium-bodied, quite erect and structured, has taut acidity and rock hard tannins but they fit the general tone perfectly. The raspberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit stays ten times more focused than juicy. Sneaks in a moment of crushed flowers. More obvious stone and mineral aspects, hard and chunky rather than powdery. Long, chewy finish, hits you with everything you expect. Can see some improvement ahead as well. 90 points
Damoy, Domaine Pierre
Burgundy, France
Chambertin
Clos de Bèze
Pinot Noir
1999
$84.99
13.5%
The dusky red-purple core becomes more dark brick red at the rims, much more murk than shine to be had. The nose displays anise seed, pruney raspberry, black cherry scents, candied orange peels, the piney forest freshness helps stretch things out, only a minor dusting of earthiness. Medium to full-bodied, the dried fruit character permeates the currant, plum, blackberry fruit but it never really gets very juicy because the gritty tannins cake the mouth quickly. On the herbaceous side, tobacco leaf. More lemon than orange peel here. Has mineral chunks while not being earthy per se. Notes of witch hazel appear big time on the finish, brig out some alcoholic sharpness. The richness of the fruit suggests the wine is in a closed state and very sleepy. Fairness dictates revisiting much later. 88 points
Cornerstone
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Black Sears Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$51.74
14.5%
The red-purple core has minimal cloudiness to obstruct, starting to develop a red/orange brick cast at the rims, color very rich throughout. Heavy, plush nose with a milky note at first then menthol, earth, eucalyptus, dug-up mountain scrub and wildflowers, more game than straight-ahead leather, almost forgets to slip in the currant, cherry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, that said it’s still a gusher of currant, blackberry, black cherry fruit, has credibly run the race against the tannins, the latter mostly resolved now. Brings out eucalyptus, beef jerky, flowers, tobacco and tea leaf elements, attractively engaging breadth. Some vanilla cream oakiness but that’s it. Classy, yet with balls. 92 points
Merryvale
Napa Valley, California
Carneros
Reserve
Chardonnay
2000
$29.99
14.5%
The deep golden color has a blockish appearance, minimal difference between the surface and beneath, some hue fade at the rims. The nose is very focused, no meandering, virtually all toasty oak, buttermilk, butterscotch as well as lime, orange zest, mint, the peach/pear fruit scents lack activity. Medium-bodied, spicy with some heat on the entry, elevates the innate powdery texture. More peach, nectarine, pear, apricot fruit here, still, it fades some past the mid-palate. The oak toast takes of a creamier feel here, the lack of vanilla suggests it’s from malolactic fermentation or contact with the lees. Orange to tangerine citrus more clear here, no lime, and tangy enough to somewhat mask the heat on the finish. Appears to be built more for finesse than most of its immediate peers, even while staying very familiar. 87 points
Blackstone
Regional Blend, California
“California”
Malvasia Bianca
Malvasia
2003
$10.99
12.1%
Pale yellow glow about all the color there is, extremely transparent and without shine to create a surface plane. Golden honey helps keep the green melon, apricot, peach fruit scents ripe and sugary, nose also shows flower water, touch of nuttiness, candied tangerine, light presence at first but gets heavier as it sits in your nostrils. Medium to full-bodied, you get the reverse here in the mouth, heavier at first, then release and lightens well. Has echoes of litchee and almond nuts, lime to tangerine citrus, the acidity is noticeable enough for a certain freshness to prevent things from congealing. That said, the body in the apple, melon, apricot fruit is palpable. The floral dimension lower here, gets lost some. All in all not gonna blow you away but pleasing to drink. 87 points
Müller-Catoir, Weingut
Pfalz, Germany
Mußbacher
Eselshaut
Auslese AP #9
Scheurebe
1989
11.0%
Deep day-glo yellow to pumpkin orange in color, lightens appreciably at the rims, average reflectivity. Nose brims with orange/tangerine marmalade, powdered milk, pineapple, papaya, passion fruit scents, there’s a light herbal edge too, ginger root and a dash of mineral dust as well. Medium to full-bodied, densely packed in either case, the lack of acidity gives it a flat mouth feel. Taking that into consideration it is extremely spicy which provides some get-up-and-go. And there’s no lack of piquant sharpness in the pineapple, nectarine, papaya, mango, apricot fruit as well as the orange to white grapefruit citrus. Otherwise, not showing much age, minimal milkiness or oxidative notes. Once the other aspects calm down, it finishes with more stone and mineral notes. Because of its density you really have to gulp hard to swallow it down. 89 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2006
Turley
Regional Blend, California
Old Vines
Zinfandel
2003
$25.00
16.4%
Fair degree of depth to the red purple color, not shiny but spotless, semi-opaque nearer the center, more clear ruby around the rims. Hits you with one big punch to your nostrils, finesse not even in the picture here, a molasses crust dripped on the raspberry, blueberry, green apple fruit scents, light ginger spice, never really opens up enough to soak in for length. Medium-bodied, tightens with alacrity into an attractive, forwardly-paced steel beam. The vanilla creaminess gives in a spongy bottom, a welcoming spot of repose for the raspberry, blackberry, blueberry fruit, not all that jammy. Mild spiciness, overall remains sweeter than spicier. Not a lot of tannins nor acidity yet not flabby as a result. Never scales the heights but delivers solidly pleasing results. A tick better than it was this time last year. Regional blend of Napa, Lodi, Paso Robles, Oakley, etc. 90 points
Turley
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Pesenti Vineyard
Zinfandel
2001
$35.00
15.3%
Red-purple in color, unblemished and trim, you can definitely see through it, more red-ruby around the rims. The nose is like someone squeezed a fistful of raspberries and blackberries and let the juice drip into your nostrils, shows cocoa crisp as well as a pleasing meaty, earthy side, filled out further by pine cone and eucalyptus nuances. Full-bodied, touches both cheeks without undue pressure on your tongue. It’s a little hot, sure, but the rambunctiousness in the blueberry, blackberry, raspberry fruit swiftly smoothes this out. Touch of orange and that eucalyptus, more straight ahead milk chocolate here. While neither powerful, what tannins and acidity there is combine to give it as much structure as is required. Stretches out well through a vibrant finish. These are the kind of wines that made this producer’s rep. 92 points
Pépière, Domaine de la
Loire, France
Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie
Clos des Briords
Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Muscadet
1997
$24.99
12.0%
Mature yellow amber to bronze in color, translucency helps it last well to the rims, maintains some surface shine. Whisper of creamy milk in the nose at first before yielding to rubber, dried herbs, wet chalk and damp earth, the crisp nectarine, pineapple, apple fruit seems unsure of how it wants to fit in. Full-bodied and tightly wound, even as it achieves room temperature. For as dense as it is, maintains a painfully sharp edge, the lemon to orange citrus all zest, the stones are shards, the pear, apple, pineapple fruit reveals more tropical bite than expected. Needless to say, the acidity is kicking butt and taking names. The milkiness and leesy creaminess a minor factor. Some pine or garden herb components. Decanting and a few hours makes negligible difference. 88 points
Mia Cara
Paarl, South Africa
Best Red
Blend
2003
Not Imported into the U.S. Yet (Price ~15)
14.0%
A heavy warm glow to the purple core pushes it into opacity, the fat brick red rims continue this, well-saturated. The nose is built around a strong core of plummy fruit, currant and cherry, very juicy, develops into dried game, earth notes with a lift from flower petal and mint shades, sheer richness makes it linger for some time. Full-bodied if not outright heavy on the palate, feeling gravity’s pull. Fresh tar, earth, leather and wet minerals set the semi-rustic tone early, touch of oak toast brings out cedar, coffee bean and spice elements. While a touch dustier in the mouth, that plum, black currant, cherry fruit remains a major presence throughout. Not quite as floral here but there’s a more pronounced white grapefruit component. Softens and sinks in by the finish, again playing as much on its heft as array of flavors. 70% Ruby Cabernet, 30% Shiraz. 87 points
Mia Cara
Paarl, South Africa
Reserve
Shiraz
2003
Not Imported into the U.S. Yet (Price ~19)
14.5%
Fully opaque black-purple core, heavy-set crimson to brick red rims, too deep to really show any reflectivity. Focused fruitiness in the nose of blackberry, cassis and plum, emboldened by molasses floral touches, the raw bacon fat, stony earth and olive pit notes somewhat veiled by the former, has traction and lift. Full-bodied without sacrificing fluidity, the tannins are dusty enough to not strangle the blackberry, black cherry, boysenberry fruit in the crib. The molasses, caramel flavors evoke baked ham or cured beef more than funky gaminess. The oak swallows some of the florality and takes some tang out of the citrus yet, on the whole, takes some of the rougher edge off too. Flavorful and not too sweet, doesn’t become too soft either, has the sort of quieter insistence that subconsciously wins you over. 89 points
Latour, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Les Forts de Latour
Blend
1966
A touch of filminess to the bright brick red core with a strong turn to orange at the rims. Cedar, cigar wrapper, spice and graphite make for both a rich and complex nose, the red currant and cherry scents more on the muted side. Medium-bodied, spicy with cedar, loam, leather and earth accents, somewhat quiet while still very well-integrated. The fruit here has paled too, yet not beyond enjoyment, the red currant to cherry flavors are sweeter during the attack. Good pacing and it holds its weight until the end. Quite nice actually, all things considered. Approximately 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot. Second wine of Château Latour. 88 points
Lagrange, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Les Fiefs de Lagrange
Blend
1995
$19.99
12.5%
Shows a red purple core, turns easily to a dark ruby-magenta towards the rims, trim appearance. Cocoa-chocolate and coffee bean led nose, forest floor scrub, a touch floral, not very earthy, sour touch to the cherry, red currant scents. Medium-bodied, soft to the point of flatness, tends to lay there albeit doesn’t quite doze off. The tannins are resolved, nothing to restrain the cedar, bark dashes and hint of orange. The mixed cherry, currant fruit not very dense yet stays at a consistent level throughout. Sweet enough start, on the whole doesn’t really come together into a bigger finish. Serviceable and easy to throw the glass back. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 86 points
Lafite-Rothschild, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Carruades de Lafite
Blend
1995
$31.99
13.0%
Integrated violet to red-ruby color, clear and clean, brighter full ruby at the rims yet does show some age. Youthful nose, forward red cherry, blackberry fruit, touch of raspberry, tautly subtle earth, leather and flower petal scents, some funkiness, betrays minimal oak, still in need of development. Medium-bodied, good heft with an even temper, tannins in no way arch but quite capable of supporting things with ease. The fruit has started to level off, not a great deal of sweetness in the cherry, plum, red currant fruit. Curious lack of tertiary flavors here in the mouth too, not tight nor closed per se, just inexpressive. Long, if homogenous, finish. Bluntly powerful. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. Second label of Château Lafite-Rothschild. 87 points
Margaux, Château
Bordeaux, France
Margaux
Pavillon Rouge
Blend
1995
$37.99
12.5%
Very clear and dark ruby-purple color, red rims with a yellow-orange tinge. Fluffy, billowy nose of wildflowers, loamy brown earth, cedar fumes, starts to get herbaceous before the ripe red cherry, raspberry fruit ascends. Full-bodied, here in the mouth it is extremely cedary along with pine cone, licorice, spiced orange peel, floral dust and maybe a touch of mint. Lightly roasted quality to the raspberry, red cherry, blackberry fruit. The tannins have softened but the acidity still has enough kick to provide spine. Pretty intriguing, if at times uneven, leaving one curious to sample further bottles for comparison. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Second label of Château Margaux. 88 points
Lafleur, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Pensées de Lafleur
Blend
1998
$89.99
13.0%
Full blackish violet core, on the dull side, seamless transition to brighter red-magenta to crimson rims. Caramel, toffee and flowers first in the nose, seductively smooth, a light herbal swipe lifts the cherry, red currant, blackberry scents, maybe a little heat. Medium to full-bodied, soaks in very well yet lacks the real grip to make you stand up and take notice. The tannins are spread wide, drying without becoming a real presence. Floral, little sauvage about it, minimal earth or leather but there is a light funkiness at moments. Round texture to the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit yet at the same time not overly juicy. Very openly knit finish, stays sweet. Barely any oak at all showing. Approximately 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc. Second wine of Château Lafleur. 89 points
Cheval Blanc, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Le Petit Cheval
Blend
2000
$79.99
13.0%
Touch of filminess but for the most part clear, red violet core to more pure ruby around the rims. Dried flowers, orange zest make for a fresh nose, comes with light cedar or tobacco notes, more offered by way of coffee or cocoa bean, nice intensity. Medium-bodied, sweet and sappy, really clings to your mouth pores. With abundant coffee ice cream, caramel and vanilla the oak is nowhere near knitting in, they add spice and elevate the presence of the tannins. Good focus, keeps its eyes straight ahead and on getting to the end goal. Mild citrus shades percolate through the cherry, blackberry fruit. No green notes yet it does have some snap or bite. While it still has some upside it’s fairly complete now. Approximately 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot. Second wine of Château Cheval Blanc. 90 points
Montrose, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
La Dame de Montrose
Blend
2000
$41.99
12.5%
Deep purple core, just about black, saturated garnet vibrant brick red rims, incredible degree of saturation. Briskly paced nose of blackberry, black cherry fruit, not in a rush but close, crackles with minerals and stones, wildflowers, meadow grasses, maybe some mint, fresh and lasts in an unforced manner. Full-bodied, both spicy and minerally on the attack, does a gentle grind into the tongue, tannins not tight but have the ability to stay in the forefront. Graphite, straw, lightly tarred earth. Does slowly pull up a bit short, perhaps a product of youth. That said, density is its final calling card. Give it a few more years to smooth out, however, not sure there’s a great deal of meaningful development to come… 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot. Second label of Château Montrose. 88 points
Latour, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Les Forts de Latour
Blend
2000
$45.99
13.0%
Red-purple core with a redder to orange cast about the rims, above average brightness. Densely packed nose, very ripe plum, currant scents, mild caramel notes, graphite, cut dried grasses, wet cedar, too dense for real lift. Full-bodied with a ripely sweet entry that displays a floral coating to the cherry, raspberry fruit, remain primary even as the tannins cut away at the fruit’s bottom. The oak more or less restricted to a swift burst of caramel and vanilla. Keeps going and going and then hits a wall, just stops. Leaves a cedary residue behind. Needs a strong unwind. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. Second wine of Château Latour. 88 points
Rieussec, Château
Bordeaux, France
Sauternes
Château de Cosse
Blend
2001
$42.99
13.0%
Yellow/orange amber in color, loses its concentration near the rims, not particularly shiny. Milky nose, dollop of rubber, only lightly floral with a slight paste-like character to the apricot, peach fruit, mild orange citrus and brown sugar accents. Medium-bodied, smoky and sweet entry of brown sugar and molasses but this fades with a fair degree of speed. The apricot, nectarine, peach, red apple fruit has lots of thrust at first but this too drops off by the finish. The lactose dimension less prominent, fresher with added pine sap and floral water nuances. The acidity about average, good enough for today but nothing to support it over a longer haul. Orange marmalade residue through the final moments. Tad too light of touch but the basics are all covered. Majority Sémillon, remainder Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle. Second label of Château Rieussec. 87 points
Climens, Château
Bordeaux, France
Barsac
Les Cyprès de Climens
Sémillon
2001
$32.99
14.0%
Yellow gold in color, still youthful with barely an amber or orange touches. The nose trades off richness for freshness with streamlined pineapple, nectarine to more poached peach and apricot fruit, supplemented by rose petals, custard, licorice accents. Medium-bodied, begins with vanilla cream and coconut suggestions, smoky, burnt toast traces too. Despite the body derived from the oak, the weak acidity leads to a touch watery finish. Licorice, mint, anise seed and orange marmalade try to pretty up the lighter apricot, peach, pear, pineapple, nectarine fruit. Creaminess rises a bit in the mid-palate. Adequate but lacks excitement. 500 ml bottle. 85 points
Clos Naudin (Philippe Foreau), Domaine du
Loire, France
Vouvray
Moelleux Goutte d’Or
Chenin Blanc
1990
12.6%
Reddish-orange color, clear with medium level of shine, turns to more yellow near the rims before falling off entirely. Total fruit paste-like feel in the nose tot he apricot, peach, nectarine scents, orange and lemon peel reduction, gingerbread, too chunky to develop much nuance, sticks to overt richness. Medium to full-bodied, hyper-sweet and syrupy, a bag of sugar opened in your mouth. Cantaloupe, peach and apricot fruit slathered in brown sugar and molasses. Lowgrade acidity not helping it gain any true erectness but at least it sits up in the chair. Orange marmalade, smoky and burnt tones dominate the finish. High possibility that this bottle was stored poorly at some point and was thus compromised. For what it is worth, a recent tasting note written about another bottle of this same wine noted the exact same color. 88 points
Colombo, Jean-Luc
Rhône, France
Condrieu
Amour de Dieu
Viognier
1999
$29.99
13.5%
Dark yellow-orange to amber in color, mature in appearance with not a lot of luster, hue stumbles towards the rims. Butterscotch, whipped cream, candied orange peel, pie spice, pumpkin, the peach, apricot, nectarine fruit scents more fluffy in feel than concentrated and deep. Full attack gets it medium body plus, yet after that initial splash it does begin a steady fade out. Round and soft, not any real acidity for solace. The orange, lemon citrus is there and it’s more floral than in the nose, however, the oak-derived vanilla, butterscotch and caramel cast a shadow over the former. More spicy than fruity, as in the nose the peach, pear, melon fruit not exactly tenuous but does show its age. Its basic weight carries the whole enchilada through the finish so one can’t say it’s short. It’s like getting 16 in blackjack. 375 ml bottle. 87 points
Pépière, Domaine de la
Loire, France
Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie
Muscadet
1991
$24.99
12.0%
Highly reflective, just a hint of green in the yellow hay color, holds decently to the rims, betrays no age. Slight oxidative side to the nose, more pine resin and rubber than stone at this point, orange marmalade, nicely stuffed, the pear and apple scents hangin’ on. Medium-bodied, seems creamy for a nano-second and then someone grabs a bag of black licorice and stuffs them in your mouth. Pine and mint also in effect, minimal oxidation here, the age shows more in a slight sluggishness past the mid-palate, acidity losing its ability to focus things. The peach, pear, apple fruit is subtle, probably more after-images than presence. Interesting, admirable for its age but does lack bite. 90 points
Turley
Central Valley, California
Lodi
Dogtown Vineyard
Zinfandel
2001
$40.00
16.0%
Trim red-ruby to violet in color, very consistent throughout with a light warm glow, hint of orange developing at the rims. Caramel, vanilla, menthol, mint oil, the nose has a baked pie character to it, could be sitting on a window sill cooling, the plum, blackberry, boysenberry scents sugary enough but not juicy, makes it short. Medium-bodied, has shed a good deal of weight and has to pick its places to impress. Clove, cinnamon, ginger, toffee, orange citrus make perfunctory appearances. More raisin and prune at this point than cherry, blackberry or black raspberry fruit. Don’t ask about the tannins and acidity and you’ll hear no lies. Not a lot left by the finish, interesting because all the components are there but it’s like it’s been shrunken. 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2006
OK, no doubt this is not the first time it’s ever happened in the history of wine. But it’s the first time it has happened to me (and no one else I know has told me about a similar experience).
I’m fishing through some cases of wine at my storage facility. I reach into one case to grab a few bottles. Out comes a bottle of 1997 Pride Mountain “Reserve Claret” and I feel sloshing inside. That’s weird I think, there shouldn’t be that much evaporation. I hold the bottle upright and look at it. Shit, it’s got signs of visible leakage. I had bought this on release from Pride and had it in perfect storage since April 2000.
The leakage wasn’t that bad, had a low neck fill, above the shoulder and the foil was tight. I’m thinking I gotta test the cork. So, I press my index finger down on the top of the foil against the top of the cork. Or at least that’s what I thought I was doing!
Instead, my finger goes straight through the foil into the neck of the bottle. THE BOTTLE HAD NEVER BEEN CORKED! Pride obviously never noticed and it wasn’t leaking when I received it and put it into storage (the foil is long enough to hide the cork from potential view). All the Pride foils are tight but this one must have been super tight. Together with the leaked wine it formed a pretty solid seal as hardly any wine got out.
At this point, the wine had been, ahem, opened. So, why not try it out? A couple of the storage guys and I got some glasses and below is the results, wine poured through the hole my finger made and into our glasses…
Pride Mountain
Napa Valley, California
Reserve Claret
Blend
1997
$98.00
14.1%
Flat black purple core, despite its poor treatment there’s minimal bricking around the red-crimson rims. Serious horse manure nose, very metallic, slowly blows off to reveal underlying red currant cherry fruit, vanilla cream, cocoa and rawhide scents. Medium-bodied, tastes fine, no real loss of fruit beyond what you’d normally expect for a nine year old wine. OK, maybe the cherry, blackberry, currant flavors are somewhat short. Really full of cedar, leather, cigar leaf and spice. The tannins are matured, its light powdery texture reveals a good deal of its acidity to keep it focused. The oak is more crisp toast here but this also has knit in well. Earthy tang on the finish, minerality and no green notes. Wish it hadn’t happened (or had happened to a $10 bottle) but still damn good at first. However, after an hour of being open totally fell apart and tasted like sucking on bluefish skin or something. 63% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot.
88 points for first half an hour, 0 points after that
Now, I do think the contact with the aluminum screwed with the wine and probably contributed to its metallic nature, especially the nasty smell. But it did really taste decent for the first half an hour! While this sucks, at least you have to give Pride some kudos for making a wine that can stand up to such conditions for, what seven or so years after “bottling”? Expensive lesson to learn but a lesson nonetheless.
Chevillon, Domaine Robert
Burgundy, France
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Les Pruliers
Pinot Noir
1991
13.5%
Crystal clear, very mature in appearance, black to brown/red brick core, very wide burnt orange rims that fade to transparency at the outer limits. Matted wet straw, earth, iodine add a funkiness to the nose, licorice, pressed violets and a touch of caramelized brown sugar supports the quieter cherry, raspberry scents. Medium to full-bodied, texturally speaking it’s powdery enough to create a drying sensation. But the cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit still has a few things to say. Cedar, clove, orange peel, rosemary elements drift through, keeps the flavors broad and provide lift over the denser earthy foundation. Does lose some grip near the finish but that’s to be expected. Has the charm of an older dining companion who knows when to tell and story and when to listen. 90 points
Brogan Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Lone Redwood Ranch
Zinfandel
2000
$35.00
15.7%
Not quite clear nor filmy, dull core, noticeably wide ruby to brick red rims. You sense the alcohol in the nose but it doesn’t throw it all entirely off, still plenty of ripe raspberry and blackberry fruit as well as milk chocolate, dried orange peel, pressed flowers and ginger spice, not quite distinct more like jambalaya after it’s sat in a covered bowl for a day or so and soaked in itself. Medium-bodied, its dryness makes the alcoholic heat more off-putting here, not sure if it’s tannins or what making it so dry. It’s not that the red cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit has disintegrated, more that it’s been condensed to a vanishing point. The oak has been knit in, mild vanilla or chocolate accents, less spicy here than in the nose. But more eucalyptus and more herbaceousness to be found. Pulls up some, truncating the finish. 87 points
Jourdan, Gilles
Burgundy, France
Côte de Nuits-Villages
La Robignotte
Monopole
Pinot Noir
2001
$21.99
13.0%
Sort of medicinal garnet to scarlet in color, immaculate and crystal clear, moderate orange cast forms along the rims. Attractive barnyard funk and merde in the nose, dried oranges, tea leaf and a curious allusion to pine needles, unlicked hard candy feel in the raspberry, red cherry, cranberry scents, while not juicy pretty densely packed overall. Medium-bodied, lotta structure during the attack, wastes no time getting down to erecting a temple to tannins and acidity on your tongue. Dry, drier and almost driest. Lemon and orange citrus all zest residue, more minerally than in the nose, parched earth and more noticeable meadow grasses where it hasn’t rained for three months. The raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit crawls forward on its belly hoping it doesn’t hit a land mine. All this said, its leanness remains its primary strength, gets you panting as you wrestle it down the chute. The kind of wine only a traditionalist could love. 87 points
Radikon, Azienda Agricola Stanislao
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
Collio
Oslavje Riserva
Blend
1998
$59.99
13.5%
Ochre-pumpkin orange in color, very mature in appearance with a fine silt throughout, heavy yellow-bronze hue around the rims. Highly medicinal nose, clove, orange spice, dried herbs, raw pie dough, has a dusty texture in spite of the peach and apricot paste scents, its sheer density keeps in anchored in your nostrils, not long more immobile. Medium-bodied, really oxidized in the mouth, super-flat and if not for the acidity would barely move. Sour, if juicy, orange, lemon citrus keeps it at least moist. That said, the dough and spice bits give it a slightly dustier complexion. The apple, pear, nectarine fruit somewhat dried out, but not in a concentrated dried fruit manner. Very long, kind of an overpowering steamroller where the operator fell asleep at the wheel. Leaves you unsure what to make of it. 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Tocai Friulano. 87 points
Woodward Canyon
Walla Walla Valley, Washington
Dedication Series #18
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$52.99
14.0%
Impenetrable black core, no surface shine, broad brick red rims if semi-dim. Cocoa, caramel, vanilla ice cream, mesquite smoke blow first through the nose, continues with thick cherry, blackberry, black currant fruit, mild earthiness and leather, remains full and long. Medium-bodied, has lost weight and tightened up some, that said with cocoa, coconut, caramel, toast and mint the oak takes up a lot of space during the attack. The tannins are dull, the acidity has some giddy-up, heightens the earth, tree bark, leather aspects. Moments of lemon bite too. Never quite unwinds, the currant, black cherry fruit drops out a little at the end even as the general weight persists. A very good, well-collected wine, best appreciated if you like a little challenge. 89 points
Clos Mimi
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Shell Creek Vineyard
Syrah
1997
$50.00
14.2%
Black enough core to achieve opacity, scarlet to dull brick red rims, very heavy-set throughout. Somewhat stinky nose, barnyard funk, wet leather, damp minerally earth, some white citrus too, the currant and red cherry scents would-up and not giving, pulls up some. Full-bodied, angular entry aided by its acidity as well as the orange citrus, herbs, wet stone, minerals and leather. The block-like currant, cherry, cranberry fruit stays dense from start to finish. The tannins more relaxed, does not dry things out, allowing the smokiness and rawhide notes to come out. Sturdy, at times to a fault. Maintains an active profile yet leaves you unsure if it’s a splashy show or substance. 88 points
Turley
Contra Costa County, California
Duarte Vineyard
Zinfandel
2000
$30.00
16.0%
Fair deal of opacity in the red-purple core, bright crimson to brick red rims, touch of orange too. Sugary, extremely raisinated nose, cloyingly heavy, sweet molasses, orange peel, cinnamon, sloth-like candied blackberry and raspberry scents. Full-bodied in terms of skeleton but has really lost its density, kind of hollow. Smoky, mesquite edge at first, then all prune, raisin, plum, black cherry fruit, too matured to be goopy but still sweet. Lemon/orange citrus, herbs, quieter eucalyptus shades. Has some acidity kicking around, zero tannins. Not hot yet the alcohol is definitely gonna hit you. Wet toast, spice and vanilla comprise the oak nuances, becomes homogeneous towards the finish, sinking deeper and deeper into your tongue, almost like it’s hiding. 88 points
Clos Roche Blanche
Loire, France
Touraine
Gamay Noir
2002
$9.99
12.0%
The purple in the core deceptive, there and not, really more a flat brick red, crimson color throughout, full rims. Intense nose of white grapefruit pith, tobacco ash, mineral dust, ground dried grass, broken stone, sour cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit, more focus than breadth. Medium-bodied, just about the same level of intensity in the mouth, white pepper, ash, grapefruit to lemon citrus, stony earth, the tannins add a consistent backbeat while the acidity does the solos, giving it lively snap. The cherry, raspberry fruit offers naked charm, its richness perhaps easy to overlook given its relative lack of flash. The herbaceousness percolates and does not become a major factor. Soil and citrus, who could ask for anything more? 89 points
Mastroberardino, Azienda Vinicola Michele
Campania, Italy
Taurasi
Radici
Aglianico
1995
$18.99
13.0%
Brown-blackish cast to the faded purple core, more garnet to brick red at the rims, vague orange tinge, not much to look at. Cough syrup, pine, cedar, leather, merde, touch of rubber in the nose, still showing sap in the cherry, blackberry scents, not long but concentrated when it is there. Medium-bodied, starting to dry out but there’s enough left in all the basic groups to satisfy. Still has that medicinal, powdered flowers, pine thing going on, not as flatulent as in the nose, more earth, leather, twigs and meadow grasses instead. Can’t call the tannins or acidity strong but they do willingly fight with what they got. Smoky patina helps keep the cherry, blackberry fruit stick around a bit longer. By the finish your mouth left parched by the lack of basic liquid-feel. Wine is technically a liquid. 85 points
Beringer
Napa Valley, California
Private Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$65.99
13.4%
Opaque, almost black purple core, very wide red-ruby rims betraying sign of light bricking, densely hued. There’s some bothersome cheese notes in the nose but beyond that a lot of pine, menthol, sweet cedar, toffee, cigar leaf, tar and rugged currant, cherry, red plum fruit scents. Medium-bodied, tannins ever-present from the start, don’t appear to have resolved much and settled down. This gives it a pockmarked texture, lots of grooves and crevices left behind in its wake. Forest floor scrub, pine cones, cedar, leather, dried orange peels, mineral chunks tightly knit together, not a lot of give in the weave. Slight bitter, fruit pit edge found in the red currant, cherry fruit, sinewy without a tough exterior. Oak treatment has calmed down, not many nails sticking out here. Lotta tough love but love nonetheless. 91 points
Noon
South Australia
McLaren Vale
Eclipse
Blend
1998
$65.00
15.7%
Completely opaque blackish purple core, filmy enough in appearance to prevent much surface shine, thin but vibrantly hued brick red rims. The fruit has paled enough in the nose to let the alcohol take a larger role, still hard candy raspberry, strawberry, watermelon fruit dominate, low level vanilla cream, mint but the Shiraz component does give it a lot of leather, game accents. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, has a lot of basic weight but feels shrunken in some way, like an older man in a suit now too big. Sugary, candied raspberry, strawberry, red cherry, blueberry fruit there throughout but nowhere near at the level of its youth. Dries out appreciably by the mid-palate, not because of any tannins or acidity though, both mild enough. Mint, tar, wet earth, dried beef and a slight herbaceousness provide the majority of the flavor array, the oak has subsided to the point where you have to actively seek it. Not a bad wine but appears to have lost its exuberance without a fair trade-off in tertiary development. 65% Grenache, 35% Shiraz. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2006
Failla
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
2001
$38.00
13.5%
Faintly dull, hard to tell if it’s from a light filminess, opaque black/red brick core, rims still majority ruby but with a strong red cast. Violet powder, crushed minerals, dried beef jerky and bundles of hay make up most of the nose, mild currant and black cherry fruit a distant second, even with its relatively low alcohol percentage there’s some heat lifting into your nostrils. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, compact and appears to have lost some weight in favor of pared down fluidity. Wild amount of grapefruit citrus, close to beating down all else. The acidity is cruising along just fine, gives a stern talking to the snappy oak toast. Abundance of pressed flowers, not perfumey but ever-present. The red currant, cherry, blackberry fruit is beginning ever so slightly to pale, most present during the attack. Again shows that dried hay/straw aspect. The gaminess a bit fresher here than in the nose. Has absolutely rewarded some cellar time, so good now no sense in waiting much longer. 92 points
Felsina, Fattoria di
Tuscany, Italy
Castelnuovo Berardenga Fontalloro
Sangiovese
1999
$49.99
13.5%
Blackish red core, mostly opaque, more pure brick red through the rims, good concentration. Leather, pressed flowers, game, earth fill up the nose, dried lemons, round if smoky cherry, currant scents, slowly builds and builds in your nostrils. Medium-bodied, at first a touch hard and unyielding, tough-minded acidity the main culprit here. Florality and citric zest helps it open up yet the stone, mineral and earth ensure it has one foot on the ground at all times. Fairly herbaceous but in a good, brightening fashion. There is a sweet core to the red cherry, raspberry fruit, bound up some by tannins and that acidity. Doesn’t lack length, just not showing it now. Give it time. 89 points
Felsina, Fattoria di
Tuscany, Italy
Chianti Classico
Berardenga Riserva Rancia
Sangiovese
1999
$62.99
13.5%
Dull, fully black core, thick and very broad red-orange brick rims. Some stink on the nose, sulfur, cloyingly thick cherry, currant scents, wet smoke, damp leather, very heavy with only a glimmer of flowers, textural density appears to restrain the scents. Full-bodied and broad-shouldered with muscles to spare. Tangy profile driven by minerality, zesty orange peel and herbs, wastes no time throwing it all at you. As of today still displaying more brute force than finesse however in the mouth the touch of flowers does pretty it up some. Well-fruited but not by any means juicy, the tannins chew things up over time yet the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit flights until the end. Presents kind of a mocha touch on the finish, just as floral to the end too. 90 points
Pepe, Azienda Agricola Emidio
Abruzzi, Italy
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Montepulciano
1985
$129.99
13.5%
Fully black core, dull with no shine, there’s a flat yellowish-brown color in the redder rims. Fresh rubber dominates the nose, like a tire factory, oil, damp earth, tar, straw, slight roast in the cherry, blackberry scents, heavy and sluggish, the animal funk is short-lived but long otherwise. Full-bodied, like one big block plopped into the mouth from ten storeys high. Delivers iron, rust, old pine cones, tar balls, damp earth, fatty grill smoke, molasses crisp, again feels like it was shoveled onto your tongue. The tannins are flat but dense, give them credit they stretch out as far as they can. Keeps developing, white grapefruit, blood, more of that just-pressed rubber. The spiced cherry, blackberry, plum fruit has lots of spring left, plenty of body remains through the finish. Undeniably not for everyone but quite the experience. 92 points
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
2001
$50.00
14.5%
Almost fully black core, opaque yet with a great deal of surface shine, the broad rims made of a deep ruby hue. Plummy nose with plentiful cherry, blackberry fruit, traces of black pepper alongside a kind of forest herbaceousness, soft floral nuances help it rise some before dissolving but it’s mostly about the fruit. Full-bodied, here the acidity has the brawn to check the potential for overripeness or reduction in the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit, still sweet and fruity is one way of putting it. The florality has more breadth, accents of menthol too, maybe a dab of orange peel for good measure. Tannins are sturdy but not especially drying. The oak treatment appears demure, some cocoa powder. Remains concentrated through the finish, a testament to the density of the primary material. With the acidity, once it sheds a little more weight should gain in complexity. 90 points
Williams Selyem
Mendocino County, California
Pinot Noir
2000
$45.99
14.0%
Above average clarity, mostly garnet to orange colored, light enough to fade some near the rims. Spicy nose, drops down into sweet cherry, raspberry fruit, caramel, light grassy stink, old dried roses, some cream but mostly knit in, skips about, not leaden in feel. Medium-bodied, good grip on entry, thick like a Velvet Elvis, takes its good time in spreading out. Because of the richness it’s sour without the bite. Serious clove spice, evokes pumpkin pie. Violets, indistinct citrus, a bit hot to let the flavors really soak in and saturate your palate. Tannins of a powdery sort, the acidity has some oomph but unable to provide direction. Caramel, toffee residue on finish. Not bad at all, yet requires an uncritical mindset. 87 points
Cornerstone
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Beatty Ranch
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$55.00
14.9%
Black core with brick red shades, rims more fully mature brick red, no real orange or brown but age shows. Be prepared because there’s a shitload of bell pepper in the nose, then cedar, forest scrub, mocha crisp, earth and slightly reductive cherry, currant fruit, not sweet enough for dried fruit character. Full-bodied, a touch saggy in terms of structure but at the same time the flavors have not tailed off. Acidity more obvious as the tannins have taken on a powdery texture. There’s an undeniable tang in the cherry, currant, red plum fruit but this bottle also has a well-endowed bottom for an anchor. That herbal edge persists here but more diffuse and less pure bell pepper. Good doses of cedar, tobacco leaf, leather and touches of tar, no doubt has matured flavor-wise but not over the hill just yet, simply “moving at its own pace.” Does open up more with time, perhaps a sign that it still has life. Again, if you like it you’ll really like it, if not… 90 points
Mount Langi Ghiran
South Australia
South Eastern Australia
Billi Billi Creek
Shiraz
1997
$17.99
13.5%
There’s a certain duskiness to the red-black purple core, shows its age in the brick red, orange-tinged rims. Beef jerky, other dried game infuse the nose as well as dried herbs, anise seed, grill smoke, earth and a touch of caramel, the tart red currant, cherry scents have begun to recede into the background. Medium-bodied, while semi-gritty in texture the acidity gives it direction and the impetus to get there. Black smoke, leather, blood iron, game flavors comprise most of the attack, hints at citrus but remains indistinct. Touch grassy but fits the overall profile. The red currant, cherry, raspberry fruit still alive and kicking here, minimal loss past mid-palate. That said, it is very much a dry wine and has close to zero oak showing, no creaminess for relief. As it opens becomes more floral with a few shades of licorice. No problem tossing back the glass. Grapes sourced from Langi, Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale. 89 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
1998
$38.00
16.0%
Dusky black purple core, bricks appreciably to orange-red at the rims, still well-hued and deep. Extremely gamey nose, leather, tarry earth, bacon grease, mesquite smoke, touch of dark chocolate and molasses, the cranberry, blackberry, red cherry fruit has more snap than juice, has definitely matured without losing power or drying out. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity is evident as any tannin that might have been there is gone and the currant, blackberry, red cherry fruit has concentrated down into hard candy and sugar crystals, little juicy liquid feel. Not very oaky but there are some burnt cocoa, toast notes. There’s some grit yet mostly smooth. Real gamey and leathery in the mouth too, overshadows any menthol or mint. Wet smoke, orange zest, displays a nice tart bite during the finish. 89 points
Tissot, Domaine André et Mireille
Jura, France
Arbois
Les Bruyères
Chardonnay
1999
$28.99
14.0%
Light amber touch to the gold core, shimmers as it runs to transparency at the rims. Brioche, molasses, golden honey infuse the nose, super-ripe green apple, peach, apricot, melon fruit, the nose is all about pleasure and warm hugs. Full-bodied, acidic and this acidity provides counterpoint to the molasses, caramel, orange citrus shades. The grassiness comes out just when you want it to, prods things further. At times there’s something like coffee rinds to be found. While it has a creamier finish, has some roughness as it yanks your tongue towards the goal post. Everything is just a bit off-center but in the way which intrigues you to follow it off the path. 90 points
Guigal, E.
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Brune et Blonde de Guigal
Syrah
1995
Price Unknown
13.0%
Crimson-purple core, attractive clarity, the brickish red rims however reveal the fine silt below. Peppery, burnt bacon nose, supplies leather, white grapefruit, mesquite smoke, almost pushes rubber, keenly edged enough to bring out a tang in the red currant, cherry scents, gaminess dominates the dissolve, really matured in the best ways. Medium-bodied, puckers your palate from the start, has acidity in spades. Leads with white grapefruit to lemon citrus, minerally earth, leather, olive pit and tar, never loses that real serious bite and also herbal as all get-out. That acidity keeps going and going. Smacks you unconscious, picks you up and then slaps you back into consciousness. Savory, goes on for a prolonged finish, waits to see the welts rise on your skin. 90 points
Granit, Domaine du
Beaujolais, France
Moulin-à-Vent
Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Gamay Noir
1996
Price Unknown
13.0%
Blackish red core, fades to red brick at the rims, while the hue is brighter the wine isn’t too clear. Incredible rhubarb, strawberry nose, fetchingly sweet in nature, some grassiness, remarkably fresh and youthful. Medium-bodied, displays sharp acidity right from the start, handsomely endowed with pebbles, minerals, lemon. There’s a lot of terroir going on but that ripeness in the strawberry, raspberry, rhubarb fruit races to the forefront too. Bright and lively, stands up for itself like nobody’s business yet not sure what to do once it’s won the fight. OK, even more lemon. Lots of stone through the finish as well as a growing matted grass aspect. Remarkable lack of evolution yet it is not a pup either. You figure it out, I’m just drinking it. 89 points
Estournel, Château Cos d’
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
Blend
1989
$109.99
13.0%
Very broad black core, thinnish red to orange brick rims, good surface brightness. Rich nose of cedar, sappy cherry and black currant fruit, leather, minerally black earth, asphalt, granite, really flattens you at first and then turns mute. Medium to full-bodied, the sour bite initially made up of tree leaves, tar, tea leaves, pencil shavings and some cedar. Continues to nip at your heels as sharper toned mixed citrus, stone, earth and more stone notes coalesce. Has a fluffy wildflower type of florality then hints at game. Four-square currant, plum, blackberry fruit like a fly caught in amber. The tannins set in stone, not going to budge for some time. Cedar fumes bring it on home. Can a human swallow a cinder block? You can try. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. 91 points
Lynch-Bages, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Blend
1989
$35.00
12.5%
Opaque black core, very thin but bright orange-red brick rims, utmost clarity in spite of the darkness. No doubt it has that lead pencil thing in the nose but also caramel, vanilla accents before bell pepper, iodine, stone dust, plenty of richness to be found in the currant, cherry scents but it doesn’t spread out much. Medium-bodied, spicy and minerally, some bell pepper and grass, more so graphite, stone, wet slate. Very floral, breaks up a lot of the solidity and lets out the lemon citrus, sweet cedar, tea leaf and earth elements. Not big and in your face, just the facts. Tannins not fine yet the are definitely in retreat mode. Semi-rugged ending, keeps you on your toes while also letting itself soak in. Nothing wrong with the length here. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 90 points
Rousseau, Domaine Armand
Burgundy, France
Gevrey-Chambertin
Clos Saint-Jacques
Pinot Noir
1998
Price Unknown
13.0%
Pleasantly clear light scarlet red color, not really different in hue towards the rims but semi-watery there. Funky, loamy nose of mushroom, spice, garden herbs, mixed citrus peel, a bit blurry due to its muscularity, the cherry, raspberry scents late to arrive. Medium-bodied, given the quietness of the nose the palate is very rich and ripe, elevated white grapefruit with more moderate, but consistent, red cherry, cranberry, raspberry fruit. Has an unique mountain air quality, suggests pine, stony earth, tar, tobacco, not a finesse wine at all. The tannins going strong, keeps everything upsized. It’s unmistakably Burgundy but still has so much going on it seems to exceed this boundary. The fruit really comes on strong during the finish, extends the show for more than an encore. Can be approached now but surely would benefit from at least 3-5 more years of cellaring. 91 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Cuvée Frédéric Émile Sélection de Grains Nobles
Riesling
1990
$119.99
13.0%
Solid gold to light bronze in color, heavy green cast, full but there is some drop off at the rims. The nose overflows with rubber, motor oil, lemon meringue pie, French vanilla ice cream, honey and lavish pineapple, nectarine, papaya, star fruit and tangerine citrus, amazingly full and youthful. In the mouth it is medium-bodied as while there are lots of layers it never loses its nimble agility. Offers a selection of sour milk, rubber, herbs, orange peel flavors, the pineapple, nectarine, peach, papaya fruit never achieves real sweetness but its vibrancy is off the charts. Seductively smooth finish, just washes across the tongue like a waterfall. 93 points
Chave, Jean-Louis
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Syrah
1997
$95.00
13.0%
Black-red core, seeps towards forming blood red rims. There’s big sulfur in the nose which obscures things at first, after that there’s a curious caramel note before molasses coated bacon, game, earth, stone, pushes like a steel beam into your nostrils, resonant currant, blackberry, cherry scents, ends just when it should. Medium-bodied, tough-minded but in your best interest, makes sure you aren’t going to waste time with anything extraneous. The acidity bites like a piranha, frames the olive, tea leaf, tar, crushed flower elements, very good clarity to all the different aspects. While there is no denying its granite-like mouth feel it does develop enough perfume for lift too. The red currant, plum, cherry fruit is clearly contoured and rubbed into a high polish. A bit wound up, more crackling energy than release. 91 points
Dujac, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Les Gruenchers
Pinot Noir
2000
$99.99
13.0%
Fairly light core, small purple dot, then flat crimson red all the way to the rims, no shine. Smoky nose, caramel and mint, the oak calmed down enough to let the earthiness out, mild pine notes, reticent cherry, raspberry fruit, on the whole not that giving. Medium-bodied, lean and acidic, the oak is creamy and vanilla flavored enough to buffer the attack but it remains much more angular then expected, more spine too. Bright orange, white grapefruit citrus with grassiness too, slides into you like a dull knife, will cut you into slabs but they will be irregular. The sour cranberry, cherry, red raspberry fruit is not long, more of an upfront burst. Earthy, loamy, forest floor funk, but not in a fleshy manner. Ultimately it never quite hits the pleasure button. 86 points
Müller-Catoir, Weingut
Pfalz, Germany
Mußbacher
Eselshaut
Auslese AP #21
Riesling
1990
11.0%
Golden bronze color, flat, as concentrated as the center is, it pales to pure yellow at the rims. Huge slab of rubber in the nose, then seriously tropical pineapple, papaya, nectarine, peach fruit, cream custard, tangerine/orange citrus, minimal stoniness or grassiness, presents itself too much as one big slug to parse further. Full-bodied, sugary attack turns super-tart swiftly, really brings the grapefruit, tangerine, lime citrus to the front. Gains wonderful traction on the tongue, clings like hell but don’t think the acidity can’t pick it all up and toss it wherever it wants. The nectarine, mango, papaya, peach, apricot, yellow apple fruit is non-stop fun. Manages to sparkle without losing any weight on the finish. Perhaps monotone but a steamroller of a wine. 92 points
Nikolaihof
Wachau, Austria
Vinothek
Riesling
1990
$81.99
12.5%
Flat green-gold color, minimal shine but appears deep, loses intensity at the rims. Downy, creamy nose, cotton balls in your nostrils, custard, diesel, pine needle, orange blossom, gracious peach, apricot, pear fruit, restrained more from breeding than inclination. Full-bodied, expands with a slow steadiness, while never fully giving. Mile deep concrete foundation, no wind is gonna blow this over. Rubber, diesel, sweet lemon/lime citrus, spice, white stone, not a great deal of complexity but absolutely does everything it should do superbly. The acidity worms through, keeps it dry in spite of the robust primary material. Creamier at the start but gains focus as it progresses. A powerhouse, not quite brooding, a heavyweight boxer entering the arena for a fight. 92 points